Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS (Patrick Pulis)
2. 06:37 AM - Re: approach speed (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
3. 09:33 AM - fuel pump usage (cjay)
4. 09:50 AM - Re: fuel pump usage (Robin Marks)
5. 09:53 AM - Re: fuel pump usage (DLM)
6. 12:03 PM - Re: How much primer do I need to buy? (Chris Colohan)
7. 12:50 PM - Re: fuel pump usage (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
8. 01:50 PM - Re: fuel pump usage (Robin Marks)
9. 02:26 PM - Rudder puzzle (Chris Colohan)
10. 03:52 PM - Re: fuel pump usage (Dave Saylor)
11. 05:30 PM - Re: Rudder puzzle (rv10flyer)
12. 05:49 PM - Re: Elevator trim speed (rv10flyer)
13. 07:34 PM - Re: Elevator trim speed (Jim Berry)
14. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: Elevator trim speed (Tim Olson)
15. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: Elevator trim speed (Tim Olson)
16. 08:56 PM - Re: Elevator trim speed (rv10flyer)
17. 09:47 PM - Re: Re: Elevator trim speed (Rick)
18. 09:58 PM - Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Billy & Tami Britton)
19. 10:09 PM - Re: Re: Elevator trim speed (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS |
Many thanks Pascal.=C2- Do you have any photos please?=0A=0AKind regards
=0A=0APat=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Pascal <rv
10builder@verizon.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, 13 March,
2010 4:02:22 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WIT
H 60/40 SPLIT SEATS=0A=0A=0AI think Robin Marks had his done for=C2- him.
I don=99t see why it wouldn't work. I built it myself and all it is
an extension to what is already there , in my case a piece of .032 aluminum
and angle. Fits as good as Vans designed it for the regular two seats aka
flush onto the seatback..=0APascal=0A=0A=0AFrom: Patrick Pulis =0ASent: Fri
day, March 12, 2010 4:28 PM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com =0ASubject: RV10-
List: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS=0A=0ACould anyone
who has installed the 60/40 split rear seats (e.g - from Custom Aero, Flig
htline, etc) please tell me if they modified (i.e - cut the flange of the a
luminium angle so that the seats sit flush onto the F-637A Seatback) F-637B
-L &-R angles?=0A=C2-=0AI don't think that the seats will seat flush up a
gainst the F-637A Seatbacks unless the flanges of the angles are cut?=0A=C2
-=0AYour feedback and thoughts would be appreciated please.=0A=C2-=0AKi
nd regards.=0A=C2-=0APatrick Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299=0AAdelaide, South Austr
alia=0A=C2- =0A=0A=0Atitle="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis
t=0ACTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahref="http://f
orums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matro
==========0A=0A=0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: approach speed |
i agree . i fly these numbers. robert
On Mar 7, 2010, at 4:36 PM, McGann, Ron wrote:
>
> G'day cjay,
>
> Base @ 85, Final @ 75 over the fence @ 70 (kias) is typical for me.
> Short fields are about 5 kias slower (but beware the sink rate).
>
> Cheers,
> Ron
> VH-XRM flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of cjay
> Sent: Monday, 8 March 2010 9:14 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: approach speed
>
>
> I've started putting my POH together and I saw that there seems to
> be a small range of recommended approach speeds. Most seem to be on
> the 65-70 kias while some are on the higher end of 75-80 kias.
>
> Anyone care to shed some light on your approach (pun intended).
>
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289550#289550
>
>
Message 3
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Great responses on the approach speed, very helpful. My second item that seems
to draw some differing approaches and I suspect there isn't one right answer
is the use of the fuel pump.
I've seen some who use it strictly on starting to those that use it liberally in
the IMPORTANT zones, i.e., takeoff, descent, approach, landing. I know the
latter is for safety, but would love to hear technical reasons why its a good
idea.
Also, I've seen some recommend 1-3 seconds on pre start to 3-10 seconds. I suspect
the veterans listen to the fuel pressure build up and don't rely on their
watch?
Anyone care to share your boost lore?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290199#290199
Message 4
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For me it's:
* Takeoff
* Tank Change
* (long final) Landing
Regarding starting, my engine likes 5-6 seconds of prime when cold. 10
seconds was too long and 3 seconds was not enough.
Once started (even for 2 minutes) my setup requires a flooded start
procedure which seems to work every time.
As you said there may be no one "right" answer but I do PERSONALLY
believe there are wrong answers like not using the boost pump of takeoff
and short final.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 9:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel pump usage
Great responses on the approach speed, very helpful. My second item
that seems to draw some differing approaches and I suspect there isn't
one right answer is the use of the fuel pump.
I've seen some who use it strictly on starting to those that use it
liberally in the IMPORTANT zones, i.e., takeoff, descent, approach,
landing. I know the latter is for safety, but would love to hear
technical reasons why its a good idea.
Also, I've seen some recommend 1-3 seconds on pre start to 3-10 seconds.
I suspect the veterans listen to the fuel pressure build up and don't
rely on their watch?
Anyone care to share your boost lore?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290199#290199
Message 5
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Hot starts are: throttle cracked, mixture idle cutoff, boost pump on,
starter, enrichen as it fires, release starter to both.
Flooded start are mixture idle cutoff, ignition off, throttle full, crank at
least three blades then hot start.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 10:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel pump usage
Great responses on the approach speed, very helpful. My second item that
seems to draw some differing approaches and I suspect there isn't one right
answer is the use of the fuel pump.
I've seen some who use it strictly on starting to those that use it
liberally in the IMPORTANT zones, i.e., takeoff, descent, approach, landing.
I know the latter is for safety, but would love to hear technical reasons
why its a good idea.
Also, I've seen some recommend 1-3 seconds on pre start to 3-10 seconds. I
suspect the veterans listen to the fuel pressure build up and don't rely on
their watch?
Anyone care to share your boost lore?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290199#290199
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: How much primer do I need to buy? |
Now that I've been to the store I have learned more.
P60G2 is now a "non-compliant" product in California. This means that
stores can sell what they have in stock, but not get more. (Apparently they
just tightened the constraints on VOC content in paint, and this stuff has
too much for the new regulation.) I purchased 2 of the 3 gallons they had
in the Hayward store. (Although the guy on the phone earlier this week said
they also had 5 gallon cans, the person I talked to this weekend only told
me about the 1 gallon cans.) Shelf life of unopened P60G2 is 3 years.
If you sign up for a normal Sherwin Williams account, you don't get a
discount on this paint. If you sign up for an industrial account they will
give you about 15-20% off. This makes a big difference when the primer is
$75/gallon and reducer is $43/gallon.
Chris
On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 5:09 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> As Pascal mentioned there are many factors in deciding whether to
> prime or not, which primer assuming you do, and how much to prime.
> Since I live in the desert of AZ, I took a middle road. I want to
> avoid potential for galvanic corrosion, while having few worries about
> salt laden humidity of the coasts. I only sprayed the areas where
> metal joins together..the rivet lines....except for the bottom of tail
> cone which got full coverage. Because I bought a QB kit, which these
> days appears to have full primer application, my volume needs were not
> great, so I went with the ease of self etching rattle cans. I think I
> might have used 10 by now, and won't need much more.
> So consider whether you are doing the slow build or quick build in
> your quantity decision.
>
> On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 11:55 PM, Chris Colohan <rv10@colohan.com> wrote:
> > Note how I carefully didn't ask "what primer?" or "should I use primer?".
> I
> > just am asking about amounts others have used. :-)
> > I have my first pieces ready to rivet in my vertical stabilizer, and so
> > wanted to figure out what I was going to do before riveting them
> together.
> > (So, by "interior" I meant "things which are not the exterior".
> Apparently
> > I used the wrong word. Oops.) Sounds like 2 gallons will do me -- which
> is
> > good, since the stuff is expensive!
> > Thanks so much for your help!
> > Chris
> > Some photos of my work so far:
> >
> http://picasaweb.google.com/colohan/TailSection?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-Q2JfUgc73bw#
> > On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> Primer war.. oh boy. The good news is you decided to prime, there is
> more
> >> than just the interior, personally if given the choice I would do
> everything
> >> outside of the interior, specifically, the tailcone the inside of the
> wings,
> >> rudder, tail HS, etc.. so that means the bulk of the things you'll be
> doing
> >> are at the beginning and half way mark so unless it takes you a while,in
> my
> >> case a little over 2 years to complete all the kits and start the finish
> >> kit, which hasn't taken much, if any primer. I have 1/4 left of the 2nd
> >> gallon. So in my case, single coat complete parts mentioned above I used
> >> less than 2 gallons.
> >> A word of caution, be sure the primer wont cause more harm than none at
> >> all, I did it because I live on the coast and thought the salt air might
> be
> >> an issue and my work skills caused a whole bunch of scratches so it was
> an
> >> extra step, but in order for primer to grip you need to rough up the
> >> aluminum, which already has a protective layer.
> >> Call the Paint store and ask what the shelf life is for the primer, I
> >> think it was 1 year for the wash primer. My house paint primer has
> lasted 10
> >> years without an issue when I repaint and do touch ups. Another option
> is go
> >> to the website and pull the MSDS, or product description it will tell
> you
> >> the life once it has been opened.
> >> Best of success with the build.
> >>
> >> Pascal
> >> From: Chris Colohan
> >> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 8:37 PM
> >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV10-List: How much primer do I need to buy?
> >> This weekend I plan on driving up to the closest store which carries
> >> P60G2, and they are quite a distance away from where I live. So I want
> to
> >> know how much I should buy, so I don't have to repeat the trip.
> >> So, two questions:
> >> a) how much primer have others used to prime the interior of their plane
> >> as they assembled it? More than 1 gallon? More than 5?
> >> b) if I try to stock up on enough primer to finish the plane -- how long
> >> does paint typically last before it goes bad? Is this a foolish
> strategy if
> >> I expect it will take me several years to finish?
> >> Thanks!
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>
> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> >>
> >>
> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >> tp://forums.matronics.com
> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: fuel pump usage |
I operate pump until flow meter shows rate of flowat start up then
turn it off. I do use it each time I change tanks every 30 minutes.
Then off again. That is it. Robert
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
606 N. Carancahua Street
Suite 1200
Corpus Christi, Texas 78476
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Mar 13, 2010, at 11:32 AM, cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Great responses on the approach speed, very helpful. My second item
> that seems to draw some differing approaches and I suspect there
> isn't one right answer is the use of the fuel pump.
>
> I've seen some who use it strictly on starting to those that use it
> liberally in the IMPORTANT zones, i.e., takeoff, descent, approach,
> landing. I know the latter is for safety, but would love to hear
> technical reasons why its a good idea.
>
> Also, I've seen some recommend 1-3 seconds on pre start to 3-10
> seconds. I suspect the veterans listen to the fuel pressure build
> up and don't rely on their watch?
>
> Anyone care to share your boost lore?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290199#290199
>
>
Message 8
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Truth be told I don't always use it on tank changes. Just left over
(good) habit from my trainer days. I never saw the downside to this
procedure.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel pump usage
<robertbrunk@mac.com>
I operate pump until flow meter shows rate of flowat start up then
turn it off. I do use it each time I change tanks every 30 minutes.
Then off again. That is it. Robert
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
606 N. Carancahua Street
Suite 1200
Corpus Christi, Texas 78476
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Mar 13, 2010, at 11:32 AM, cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Great responses on the approach speed, very helpful. My second item
> that seems to draw some differing approaches and I suspect there
> isn't one right answer is the use of the fuel pump.
>
> I've seen some who use it strictly on starting to those that use it
> liberally in the IMPORTANT zones, i.e., takeoff, descent, approach,
> landing. I know the latter is for safety, but would love to hear
> technical reasons why its a good idea.
>
> Also, I've seen some recommend 1-3 seconds on pre start to 3-10
> seconds. I suspect the veterans listen to the fuel pressure build
> up and don't rely on their watch?
>
> Anyone care to share your boost lore?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290199#290199
>
>
Message 9
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I've reached page 7-6, step 4 --- and found my first puzzle.
When I went to cleco on the right R-1001 skin, I found that the holes near
the rudder spar in piece R-1004B do not line up with the skin. The holes in
every other piece do line up with the skin. As you approach the spar, the
holes in the R-1004B piece appear to be lower than the holes in the skin.
Figuring maybe the right and left skin differed, I put on the R-1001 left
skin, and it lined up and fit perfectly. The two skins are punched
identically.
It looks like the design doesn't account for the thickness of part R-1004A
(and then some?) when sandwiching R1004-A and R-1004B together.
A picture is worth a thousand words. So posted a bunch of photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/colohan/TailSection?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-Q2JfUgc73bw#5448246711194853154
Now, my question: what can I do about this? My choices seem to be:
a) get some metal and fabricate a R-1004B with holes which match the skin.
b) straighten out the 90 degree angle and try to rebend my R-1004B slightly
differently to get this to line up.
c) turn some of the holes in either the R-1004B or skin into ovals so they
reach the holes in the other piece.
As far as I can tell, the R-1005 horn is not improperly warped or bent in
any way (which would explain this). Is there an option I'm missing? I fear
that the best option is fabricating a replacement piece, but I don't think I
have any metal of the appropriate dimensions (so I'd have to order some and
wait).
Thanks!
Chris
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: fuel pump usage |
Besides starting, the boost pump provides fuel pressure to keep the engine
running in the event of a mechanical pump failure. A fuel injected engine
won't produce power without fuel pressure from the mechanical and/or boost
pump.
Everyone gets to decide for themselves when they would LEAST like an engine
failure, so you hear different scenarios for using the boost pump. I turn
it on for take-off to cruise, and as part of my Gas-Mixture-Prop-Pump check
for landing. I'm not sure what the reasoning would be for turning it on to
switch tanks, but it can't hurt.
.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sat, Mar 13, 2010 at 9:32 AM, cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Great responses on the approach speed, very helpful. My second item that
> seems to draw some differing approaches and I suspect there isn't one right
> answer is the use of the fuel pump.
>
> I've seen some who use it strictly on starting to those that use it
> liberally in the IMPORTANT zones, i.e., takeoff, descent, approach, landing.
> I know the latter is for safety, but would love to hear technical reasons
> why its a good idea.
>
> Also, I've seen some recommend 1-3 seconds on pre start to 3-10 seconds. I
> suspect the veterans listen to the fuel pressure build up and don't rely on
> their watch?
>
> Anyone care to share your boost lore?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290199#290199
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder puzzle |
Chris,
I ran into same problem a couple months back. Yes, just on one side. Install clecos
in EVERY hole first and don't be gentle. Once you start installing clecos
you may find the the rudder horn slot may need to be opened up on the top side
with file and or cutoff wheel about 1/16".
You will run into another problem on hs rib hole alignment later on. Same thing.
Don't be gentle. As perfect as the equipment is at Van's, it all depends on
programming, operator, day of the week, machine wear, etc. It is best to get on
here when you have misalignment, because it could be something installed incorrectly
on your part.
There are many places that I have made notes in the plans if you want to go through
them just call my cell and then you can note them too. *606* 316-9020. Some
instructions are missing, not clear. I have a friend ahead of me a few months
that helps me out before I get to the "easy to screw up points".
Also it helps to have all the plans to look forward to later steps to see why or
how a particular part is installed. One more reason I bought entire kit- in
addition to shipping/price increases. Van's could just sell them to us. It isn't
like were going to engineer this plane from the plans. There is not enough
information. Check Tim Olsen's site if you are not already registered.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY
40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker del 11/20/09
Started emp 12/01/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290241#290241
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
10 seconds or so with 9 volt battery, as I just finished emp attachment a week
or so ago(would be quicker with 12-14 volts).
I doubt anyone flying has been brave enough to try it. I have only been on demo
ride with Joe Blank. Those elevators and trim tabs are huge so I doubt we'll
ever use full trim tab deflection.
I am going to use switches on instrument panel just like Van's, as I don't want
a coolie hat driving a relay. Parts are already paid for. KISS principal. Just
one more thing to break, wires to break, then you have to have speed controller
to keep it from going nuts when you accidently lay something on the coolie
hat. How far from the throttle will we have to move our right hand to reach ail/elev
trim switches- 2-3". I am not going to pretend I am a fighter pilot with
6+ functions on my stick. I'll carve mine out of wood. Just my opinion, none
of this may apply to anyone else but thought I would reply since nobody else
had yet. Happy building.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY
40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker del 11/20/09
Started emp 12/01/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290243#290243
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
Wayne,
Thanks for your reply. I was starting to wonder if the lack of responses was due
to the fact that no one flying with a single speed elevator trim servo is satisfied
with the compromise speed for take-off/landing as well as at cruise. I
have the ability to adjust the speed of my trim servo on the ground and was hoping
someone had found the sweet spot. It currently takes 20 seconds for my
trim tab to go from trail to 35* down. That seems slow to me. I am trying to avoid
first flight surprises.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290252#290252
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
I would go dual speed for sure. It's slow enough at full speed that
on a go around or touch-n-go you fight the stick for a while. I
wouldn't settle for less than full speed in the pattern....and, full
speed is dangerously fast in cruise.
Tim
On Mar 13, 2010, at 9:33 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>
> Wayne,
>
> Thanks for your reply. I was starting to wonder if the lack of
> responses was due to the fact that no one flying with a single speed
> elevator trim servo is satisfied with the compromise speed for take-
> off/landing as well as at cruise. I have the ability to adjust the
> speed of my trim servo on the ground and was hoping someone had
> found the sweet spot. It currently takes 20 seconds for my trim tab
> to go from trail to 35* down. That seems slow to me. I am trying to
> avoid first flight surprises.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290252#290252
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
On my last flight I was alone and had full or almost full up trim upon
landing. Worked fine but I guarantee you'll want the full range.
Tim
On Mar 13, 2010, at 7:48 PM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> >
>
> 10 seconds or so with 9 volt battery, as I just finished emp
> attachment a week or so ago(would be quicker with 12-14 volts).
>
> I doubt anyone flying has been brave enough to try it. I have only
> been on demo ride with Joe Blank. Those elevators and trim tabs are
> huge so I doubt we'll ever use full trim tab deflection.
>
> I am going to use switches on instrument panel just like Van's, as I
> don't want a coolie hat driving a relay. Parts are already paid for.
> KISS principal. Just one more thing to break, wires to break, then
> you have to have speed controller to keep it from going nuts when
> you accidently lay something on the coolie hat. How far from the
> throttle will we have to move our right hand to reach ail/elev trim
> switches- 2-3". I am not going to pretend I am a fighter pilot with
> 6+ functions on my stick. I'll carve mine out of wood. Just my
> opinion, none of this may apply to anyone else but thought I would
> reply since nobody else had yet. Happy building.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie
> A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Grayson, KY
> 40983
> Ord complete kit 8/24/09
> DB Schenker del 11/20/09
> Started emp 12/01/09
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290243#290243
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
I probably will not use all "nose up" trim available landing just like in the 172,
so that during a go around I won't have to fight it quite as bad. I do have
35 deg per plans though.
Nice to hear from someone flying on how much trim is needed. I would have thought
you would not even need half of that unless you had two people up front.
Very interesting trim set up/instructions and fun getting adjusted until you learn
about the internal stops in the cables/how ends need to be positioned properly.
Definitely would go with screws/nutplates on the aft bracket/nut if I had
it to do over again as clearance to turn cover plate is lacking unless front
nut is loosened and cable moved aft. Another hour of work before starting wings.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY
40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker del 11/20/09
Started emp 12/01/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290259#290259
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
I totally agree with Tim...plus he flight tested the failsafe system
through several loops to set the proper speed!! :)
Rick
On Mar 13, 2010, at 8:07 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I would go dual speed for sure. It's slow enough at full speed that
> on a go around or touch-n-go you fight the stick for a while. I
> wouldn't settle for less than full speed in the pattern....and, full
> speed is dangerously fast in cruise.
> Tim
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2010, at 9:33 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Wayne,
>>
>> Thanks for your reply. I was starting to wonder if the lack of
>> responses was due to the fact that no one flying with a single
>> speed elevator trim servo is satisfied with the compromise speed
>> for take-off/landing as well as at cruise. I have the ability to
>> adjust the speed of my trim servo on the ground and was hoping
>> someone had found the sweet spot. It currently takes 20 seconds for
>> my trim tab to go from trail to 35* down. That seems slow to me. I
>> am trying to avoid first flight surprises.
>>
>> Jim Berry
>> 40482
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290252#290252
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
Any new news on the RV-10 cutaway?
Bill
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 1:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
I don't know how many folks have followed the Cutaway RV Drawing thread
on VAF. (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38927)
I have taken an interest and wanted to share with the RV-10 community
to gather more interest.
Here is an example of the RV-7A Slider:
To get a RV-10 version commissioned and started, Tom needs a
demonstrated interest from the RV-10 community. I'm interested in
getting one and I thought I would post here to encourage others that
may be interested to order as well.
To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net and let Tom know
which model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open
edition print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an
18x24 or 24x36. No money is collected until the project starts.
The following is an overview of what's involved in the project and the
different types of prints available.
Research (approximately 50 hours including travel)
Access to engineering plans and actual RV's. I have already contacted
Vans' Aircraft who have given me a thumbs up "go", and they are willing
to provide access to plans. I'm confident there are enough RVs in the
Portland area for final close-up access to a finished plane(s).
Hand created draft (about 200 hours)
Pencil the detailed draft. This is the phase that makes my art unique. I
do this phase by hand because it adds a unique perspective and fine art
quality-like Leonardo DaVinci. Also because it's more like building the
real plane, which is essentially what I must do to create these images.
Final details and painting (about 100 hours)
Load the draft into the computer for completion and painting.
Send to the Printer.
Tom will bill the retainer through PayPal once the required number of
orders is reached.
Once all retainers (50%) have been received, I will schedule in the
project, which will take approximately 8 weeks to complete.
Available prints and pricing:
18" X 24" on archival paper.............................................
...$45.00 +S/H**
24" X 36" on archival paper.............................................
...$65.00 +S/H**
Fine-art 24" X 36" limited edition of 100 *giclee
prints..........$200.00 + S/H**
Custom prints: an exclusive cutaway of your personal aircraft with your
paint scheme and specific details. By quote only, the price will be
determined by the complexity of paint scheme and level of detail
desired. A 50% deposit will be required on these special projects to
secure a position in the queue. They will be scheduled in the order
received after completion. Custom cutaways generally range between $500
- $1500. I have done some of these works for Pitts Model 12 customers
and they have been extremely pleased with the final result.
*a giclee is digital print that is the highest quality reproduction
available. These are fine-art prints produced on museum quality
acid-free paper using non-fading special inks. When framed properly,
these prints have non-fading life expectancy of 100 years. These must be
printed one at a time at ultra-high resolution for maximum detail. They
take about 1 hour each to print and are dazzling.
**Shipping and handling includes actual shipping charge and packing
tube. Within the US this is $15.00. Overseas rates vary. (Inquire for
rates)
Artwork is always copyrighted with all rights retained by TJTechArt,
Inc.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed |
Ha!!! Yeah, that's how I get perfect loops all the time....if you
set your trim to full speed and start at 140kts you just apply 3 full
seconds of nose-up trim and that gives you the 4G pull for the loop
entry. Then you just hold on until the world looks normal again and
quickly add 3 seconds of nose down.
(just kidding, so NO, don't try that!)
Tim
Do not archive
On Mar 13, 2010, at 11:41 PM, Rick <ricksked@cox.net> wrote:
>
> I totally agree with Tim...plus he flight tested the failsafe system
> through several loops to set the proper speed!! :)
>
> Rick
>
> On Mar 13, 2010, at 8:07 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I would go dual speed for sure. It's slow enough at full speed
>> that on a go around or touch-n-go you fight the stick for a while.
>> I wouldn't settle for less than full speed in the pattern....and,
>> full speed is dangerously fast in cruise.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 13, 2010, at 9:33 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Wayne,
>>>
>>> Thanks for your reply. I was starting to wonder if the lack of
>>> responses was due to the fact that no one flying with a single
>>> speed elevator trim servo is satisfied with the compromise speed
>>> for take-off/landing as well as at cruise. I have the ability to
>>> adjust the speed of my trim servo on the ground and was hoping
>>> someone had found the sweet spot. It currently takes 20 seconds
>>> for my trim tab to go from trail to 35* down. That seems slow to
>>> me. I am trying to avoid first flight surprises.
>>>
>>> Jim Berry
>>> 40482
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290252#290252
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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