Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Rob Kochman)
2. 12:55 AM - Re: Re: Wing jacks (Bill Watson)
3. 02:22 AM - Re: Jumper plug and receptacle. (John Gonzalez)
4. 03:55 AM - Re: Bent fuselage (Kelly McMullen)
5. 04:49 AM - Re: Seat rails (John Gonzalez)
6. 05:35 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Pascal)
7. 05:49 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Linn Walters)
8. 05:54 AM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Perry, Phil)
9. 05:56 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
10. 06:07 AM - [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Lew Gallagher)
11. 06:54 AM - Re: Seat rails (Lew Gallagher)
12. 07:28 AM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (johngoodman)
13. 07:50 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (David Maib)
14. 08:53 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (rv10flyer)
15. 08:53 AM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (AirMike)
16. 09:43 AM - Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems (AirMike)
17. 10:47 AM - Re: Jumper plug and receptacle. (gary)
18. 10:55 AM - Jump start (Chris Hukill)
19. 12:04 PM - Re: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems (Pascal)
20. 12:05 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 12:09 PM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Linn Walters)
22. 12:23 PM - Re: Re: Wing jacks (Linn Walters)
23. 01:03 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Jim Berry)
24. 01:52 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Linn Walters)
25. 01:52 PM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Perry, Phil)
26. 01:55 PM - Prestige Aircraft painting? (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
27. 01:55 PM - Re: Seat rails (Albert Gardner)
28. 02:06 PM - Re: Bent fuselage (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
29. 03:02 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Jim Combs)
30. 03:02 PM - Re: Seat rails (Tim Olson)
31. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Wing jacks (Linn Walters)
32. 03:35 PM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Pascal)
33. 03:39 PM - Re: Bent fuselage (Perry, Phil)
34. 03:39 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (conradb)
35. 03:53 PM - FW: Seat rails (Albert Gardner)
36. 04:11 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Perry, Phil)
37. 04:16 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Jim Combs)
38. 06:03 PM - Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. (stuewe)
39. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Larry Rosen)
40. 06:14 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (DLM)
41. 06:14 PM - Wing jacks (DLM)
42. 07:06 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
43. 07:06 PM - Re: Re: Taxes (Chuck Weyant)
44. 07:06 PM - Re: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. (Johnson)
45. 07:08 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Linn Walters)
46. 10:01 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Lew Gallagher)
47. 10:04 PM - Re: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. (Jack Phillips)
48. 10:04 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Albert Gardner)
49. 10:04 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Kelly McMullen)
50. 11:06 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Perry, Phil)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers,
right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires
don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have
any comments/suggestions?
Thanks..
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 2
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I don't have wings on but I use 2 nylon web straps under motor mount tubing
to lift the front up. Can send a pic or 2 if it will help. Anc
horing tail sounds like it will solve problem of having the engine stand ro
lling around.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre
On Mar 15, 2010 11:09 PM, Jim Berry <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
Another way to raise the nose wheel is to remove the upper cowl, place a lo
op of nylon webbing through the upper motor mount tubes, and lift with your
engine hoist. It is my understanding that you do not want to use the engin
e lift point.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290413#290413
Message 3
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| Subject: | Jumper plug and receptacle. |
It seems that this recepticle is overkill. There are two issues that make n
eed of such a item.
Battery recharge
Accesibility
If I am not going to fly with a jump started battery(s) then how about just
putting two AN4 bolts sticking out of the rear baggage bulkhead which are
isolated from grounding on the metal by using rubber gromits. Each of these
bolts can be coverred with covers when not in use so they don't arc and bl
ow up the kid in the back who is playing with matches.
Seems like this would solve both of the above issues and I only add the wei
ght of the bolts=2C washer=2C nuts=2C grommets and the cable=2C and I don't
but a whole in the fuse that weakens it.
How does this sound?
JOhn
From: ricksked@cox.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle.
John=2C
I=92m running two 680=92s=2C my batteries are accessible through a rear pan
el in the aft baggage bulkhead. I have a solid state charger from Odyssey
=2C (see Tim=92s site=2C it=92s the same) that will bring those batteries u
p to full charge in 15 minutes if needed. I only use it if we are playing w
ith the avionics for a long time on battery power. Either one=2C fully char
ged will start the engine. If I were to do it again I might consider a plug
=2C not that heavy duty you=92re looking at but one I=92ve seen on other li
ght aircraft. Why? Only if I needed to charge a battery on the road at and
FBO=2C I=92ll swap one battery this summer with a new one=2C the other next
summer=85always have a fairly new battery onboard at all times that way.
Rick S.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday=2C March 15=2C 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed
an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the
quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbe
lly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound
seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached
to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and f
inding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly=2C I need a towplane
and a good thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes=2C how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a
serious battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks=2C
JOhn http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.c
omhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bent fuselage |
You will find that all the holes along the baggage floor have to be
pulled inward because they didn't put quite enough curve in the bottom
skin. Until you have the tailcone cleco'd on, you won't be able to
tell how some of the longerons line up. Finished this on my QB a
couple weeks ago.
On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 1:56 PM, Russell Shavitz <rashvac@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> I pulled my floor out and all the holes are drilled but they do not match the
side channels and
> the back of the fuse does not match the tailcone bulkhead there is a twist in
the fuse. Is this normal and will it straighten when I install the tailcone.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
>>Sent: Mar 15, 2010 7:27 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
>>
>>
>>Welcome to the new QB factory!
>>
>>Actually I believe I can explain this one:
>>
>>"2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so
the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially
the side channels."
>>
>>On my QB kit, there were 3-4 holes that were not drilled through the floor pans
and into the side channels. I thought I had the same issue, but after digging
around with a flashlight and mirror to look underneath, I could see that they
left those holes untouched. The only logic I could come up with is that the
twist is slightly different from fuse to fuse, so they wanted to leave those
holes untouched until each of us could put our own floor boards in.
>>
>>I'll bet your holes aren't drilled either. It's pretty easy to see with an inspection
mirror and a small flashlight.
>>
>>Phil
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net]
>>Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:02 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
>>
>>
>>I am finally getting around to doing Van's quality control inspection on my RV-10
quick build fuselage. I have counted 43 errors or omissions. Some of these
are very minor, like snap bushings not being installed, some are a little harder;
having to drill out AN470 rivets to install flush rivets.
>>
>>The areas of major concern, and maybe someone can enlighten me are:
>>1.)the bend angle in the rear of the fuselage does not match the F-1006 bulkhead
and the F-1023B gussets does not match the holes in the underlying structure.
>>2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so
the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially
the side channels.
>>
>>Can anyone tell me if this is going to be a big problem?
>>
>>3.)all of my interior sheet metal did not get machine counter sunk for the #8
screws - can you machine counter sink these parts that have nut plates behind
them already?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>>Russell Shavitz
>>Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>>4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>>office: 847-678-1000
>>cell: 847-417-6622
>>www.shavitz.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Russell Shavitz
> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
> office: 847-678-1000
> cell: 847-417-6622
> www.shavitz.com
>
>
Message 5
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When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested
> Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails
> From: lewgall@charter.net
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hey Guys=2C
>
> I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of -10's -
if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he trimmed off the
upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after removing the seat pos
ition pin=2C the seat slides back=2C then tips up without hitting the flap
tunnel covers. I did that today and it works like a charm.
>
> Perhaps this has been covered by others=2C but I don't remember it=2C and
I'm too tired tonight to search it!
>
> I'll attach a pic.
>
> Later=2C - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Avionics in=2C engine started!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rails_medium_130.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
get a battery tender for aircraft- a few wires and a place to put the
female connection in the rear and you're set. Wont help for jump
starting but it does recharge so with patience it would get the battery
back to charges after a while.
Pascal
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I
placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite
surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would
find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is
that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable
which needs to be attached to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane
and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a
towplane and a good thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a
serious battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks,
JOhn
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
> Some good advice would be appreciated.
>
> A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I
> placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite
> surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one
> would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with
> it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include
> the cable which needs to be attached to the plug.
>
> This is quite an large heavy item.
True ..... but how much did that dinner last night weigh? Or how heavy
is your 'tool box'? I agree that every ounce adds up.
>
> Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane
> and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a
> towplane and a good thermal day.
>
> People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or
> a serious battery recharge?
That depends on how often you leave something on, or how old your
battery is (usually coupled with cold weather).
Or anything else unusual.
>
> I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
I'm keeping mine. I've had a couple of missed flights ..... usually due
to aged batteries. They test good at annual, but don't last the year or
a hard start.
Linn
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
I've got my cabin top, but I don't have the mounting hardware yet.
I'm guessing I should wait until I get the HW to countersink the canopy?
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in
circulation?]
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Thanks for the countersink Lew. I put it to good use by getting 4
sinks out of it.
Congrats on getting to the first inspection!
Bill Watson.
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey All,
>
> The magical traveling countersink is finished up with Rob and headed
back to me, so if anyone has an un-sunk canopy, now is the time to
detour it to you on it's way. Post here and we'll get it to you.
>
> By the way, we had our FIRST inspection this Saturday and today we'll
finish up the list of good catches he found. Ready for re-inspection
next weekend, then cross training in TX for Wes and he'll be ready to
go. Still have no intention of flying with him, but the excitement is
infectious!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> do not archive
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Avionics in, engine started!
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
Yeah they weigh a lot. That being said if you ever find yourself dead on the ramp,
you will be most happy you installed one. It is pretty much the standard receptacle
that just about any FBO can jump. I Installed mine next to the battery
tray behind the aft baggage bulkhead with a small access door.
David Clifford
RV-10 In Progress
Empennage Done
Engine Overhauled & Pickled
Closing up The Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 5:12:08 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order
for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality
of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbelly of a commercial
airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces
and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and finding
a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane and a good
thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious
battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks,
JOhn
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
Hey Phil,
I'm pretty sure that you got the two large flat head screws for the seatbelt canopy
attach points with the canopy. You don't need your seatbelts yet -- if you
are going with the standard Van's set up, you can go ahead and drill/countersink
in the center of the two hard points in the canopy (two round indentions
in the canopy above the passenger seats that are solid, not honeycombed like
the rest of the canopy). I sunk them a bit more so that I could anchor the head
then glass over the head before painting.
Email me if you want on the list.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Avionics in, engine started!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290434#290434
Message 11
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Hey John,
The picture was attached to the post, but here it is again.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: RV 10 group
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails
When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested
> Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails
> From: lewgall@charter.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
<lewgall@charter.net>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of
-10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he
trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after
removing the seat position pin, the seat slides back, then tips up
without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and it works
like a charm.
>
> Perhaps this has been covered by others, but I don't remember it,
and I'm too tired tonight to search it!
>
> I'll attach a pic.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Avionics in, engine started!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rail==========
> _====
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
Rob,
I don't see anything wrong with it except when you need to remove the cover to
take out the front seats. However, I just noticed a post with a mod to the seat
rails that would solve that problem.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290442#290442
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
John,
Due to my own negligence, I had to have a jumpstart on the first
engine run! It's a long story, but the bottom line is, it was very
nice to have the ability. Lots of pilots would be reluctant to go fly
an airplane that required a jumpstart because the battery was dead
for some unknown reason. For me, that would be a large red flag.
However, the real value for me is that I can hook up power in the
hangar and play with avionics as long as I want. I use this function
probably once a week. Every time I update databases, preloading
flight plans, any maintenance where I want to operate flaps, lights,
etc. It is heavy (it sounds like I have the same one you bought), but
I would hate to be without it.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Mar 15, 2010, at 5:12 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I
placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite
surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one
would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem
with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not
include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane
and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a
towplane and a good thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart
or a serious battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks,
JOhn
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
I will replace battery every 5 yrs like I do on my personal and work vehicles.
Use the old batteries in not so important places like the lawn mower, tractor,
hangar 12v power supply(always connected to battery tender). Never had to have
a jump on any primary vehicles. Secondary vehicles yes but they are easy to
jump and then go to auto parts place and get another. I will install "Master On"
indicator. I will install one fused wire to "Bat" terminal on master relay
with easily accessible jack and another fused wire to opposite terminal for external
power supply. Battery master switch/relay will not have to be energized
consuming power. No external power relay, no external power master switch, no
extra wires to panel, no heavy wires or external power connectors needed, no
access cover needed. Saves money, 3+ lbs of weight, time. I may regret it one
of these days though...
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/15/10 333 hrs
Wings 3/15/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290449#290449
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
Put mine on the "armrests" - seemed easier for maintenance.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290450#290450
Message 16
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| Subject: | Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems |
I decided to go ahead and install Vans door latch S/B. Having returned from one
flight to find my door had only been halfway latched, I figured that an extra
independent fail safe system was not such a bad idea. Also if I decide to sell
the plane later I can say that all S/B's are in compliance.
In any case I have had some problems getting the installation done.
1. The spring fits in such a way that it pressed against the outer door skin and
seems to bind against the bolt in such a way as to restrict the movement of
the latch. How have others resolved this?
2. The "Z" clip is too short. It does not seem to reach the aluminum door frame
so as to be riveted. Do I need to cut down the composite part of the door frame?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290453#290453
Message 17
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| Subject: | Jumper plug and receptacle. |
I went down to the local welding shop and purchased 2 plugs and receptacles
for welding cables. One is red and the other is black. They are cheap,
light, look good. I placed them on a separate panel behind the rear
bulkhead and the head of each pokes through a hole in the upholstery. Neat
set up if I do say so myself.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle.
It seems that this recepticle is overkill. There are two issues that make
need of such a item.
Battery recharge
Accesibility
If I am not going to fly with a jump started battery(s) then how about just
putting two AN4 bolts sticking out of the rear baggage bulkhead which are
isolated from grounding on the metal by using rubber gromits. Each of these
bolts can be coverred with covers when not in use so they don't arc and blow
up the kid in the back who is playing with matches.
Seems like this would solve both of the above issues and I only add the
weight of the bolts, washer, nuts, grommets and the cable, and I don't but a
whole in the fuse that weakens it.
How does this sound?
JOhn
_____
From: ricksked@cox.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle.
John,
I'm running two 680's, my batteries are accessible through a rear panel in
the aft baggage bulkhead. I have a solid state charger from Odyssey, (see
Tim's site, it's the same) that will bring those batteries up to full charge
in 15 minutes if needed. I only use it if we are playing with the avionics
for a long time on battery power. Either one, fully charged will start the
engine. If I were to do it again I might consider a plug, not that heavy
duty you're looking at but one I've seen on other light aircraft. Why? Only
if I needed to charge a battery on the road at and FBO, I'll swap one
battery this summer with a new one, the other next summer.always have a
fairly new battery onboard at all times that way.
Rick S.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed
an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the
quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the
underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1
pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be
attached to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and
finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane
and a good thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a
serious battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks,
JOhn
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
Message 18
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I am doing it the same way as my RV8. I have a cigar lighter plug near
the battery for trickle charge and avionics work, and a door in the
baggage bulkhead thru which I reach in to attach standard automotive
jumper cables to the hot lug of the master contactor and a grounding
lug. Now in the rare event you need an emergency jump to leave town, any
passing motorist has the cables you need. No dead weight in the
airplane. I actually had several occasions to need that setup in the
RV8, all due to a bad starter that depleted my battery trying to get
started. After finding that and replacing it, never had a need for
jumping since.
Chris Hukill
Wiring the machine
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems |
I'll encourage you to do the less evasive solution and get the one Ed and
Scott have installed, sounds like less work and a better solution.
Was out at a RV-10 this weekend and the builder has been flying for 4 years,
I hooked him up with Ed Hayden and heard him tell Ed that his door DID fly
off and that the SB is garbage to resolve that problem- why? the door lifts
up so the SB would do little to hold the door, 2nd- Vans never tested to
verify it works..
If you're already committed than I hope others can learn from this.
BTW- the builder I mention, who is to blame for my buiilding the RV-10 has a
"L-bracket" in the center and uses a pin to hold the door in, very simple
solution compared to the boat anchor Vans put out, not to mentioned
significantly less expensive as well.. same problem from accessing from the
outside in case of emergency. but far easier to implement.
SB is voluntary, I personally would not buy a plane that had that SB in it,
but that's me and I know there are other/better ways to do this..
Doesn't answer your question but hopefully it might help you go a different
route.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems
>
> I decided to go ahead and install Vans door latch S/B. Having returned
> from one flight to find my door had only been halfway latched, I figured
> that an extra independent fail safe system was not such a bad idea. Also
> if I decide to sell the plane later I can say that all S/B's are in
> compliance.
>
> In any case I have had some problems getting the installation done.
>
> 1. The spring fits in such a way that it pressed against the outer door
> skin and seems to bind against the bolt in such a way as to restrict the
> movement of the latch. How have others resolved this?
>
> 2. The "Z" clip is too short. It does not seem to reach the aluminum door
> frame so as to be riveted. Do I need to cut down the composite part of the
> door frame?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290453#290453
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Jumper plug and recepticle. |
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is if you have anything that has a kee
p alive it can drain your battery over time. Dynon's stuff was famous for
this for a while, probably still is. But anything that requires a trickle
for keeping state or batteries charged will drain your mains after a while.
Even with the AGM's that don't lose charge when sitting there, I would re
commend you put a maintainer on your battery if you let it sit for any exte
nded period.
I also have dual 680's and they are both on separate contactors with the
battery bus off of just one. If one battery is dead I can isolate it for s
tarting and then bring it back online to charge. I also have each LSE III
ignition independently wired to each battery which further allows me to iso
late them from the rest of the system by shutting off a battery contactor s
hould the need arise. If anything in the electrical system is a problem th
at requires me to kill the master, I don't have to worry about taking out t
he ignition and each has an independent power supply at that point. Both o
f my AFS, my Dynon backup, and my 496 all have internal batteries. Much l
ike a vacuum/mag system I can kill my power and still keep going. Now ghos
ts in the machine are a whole different potential problem :)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
get a battery tender for aircraft- a few wires and a place to put the femal
e connection in the rear and you're set. Wont help for jump starting but it
does recharge so with patience it would get the battery back to charges af
ter a while.
Pascal
From: John Gonzalez<mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed
an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the
quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbe
lly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound
seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached
to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and f
inding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane a
nd a good thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a se
rious battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks,
JOhn
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Phil,
>
> I'm pretty sure that you got the two large flat head screws for the seatbelt
canopy attach points with the canopy. You don't need your seatbelts yet -- if
you are going with the standard Van's set up, you can go ahead and drill/countersink
in the center of the two hard points in the canopy (two round indentions
in the canopy above the passenger seats that are solid, not honeycombed like
the rest of the canopy). I sunk them a bit more so that I could anchor the
head then glass over the head before painting.
>
And if you do anchor the head, add some notches or flats to the
circumference for a little more grip.
Linn
> Email me if you want on the list.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Avionics in, engine started!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290434#290434
>
>
>
Message 22
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Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Another way to raise the nose wheel is to remove the upper cowl, place a loop
of nylon webbing through the upper motor mount tubes, and lift with your engine
hoist. It is my understanding that you do not want to use the engine lift point.
>
I wonder why not. the engine mounts/isolators drag the whole airplane
through the air. I've been using the engine strap for a long, long time
.... without any bad effects. Maybe I've just 'dodged the bullet'?
Linn
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290413#290413
>
>
>
Message 23
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I have read, maybe in LightPlane Mainteance, that lifting the plane by the engine
strap can crack the crankcase. Fortunately not one of those things that I learned
by experience.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290471#290471
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube
> covers, right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me,
> where the wires don't block the doors and the connectors are out of
> the way. Anyone have any comments/suggestions?
I mounted my HS jacks in the panel (L & R sides like normal) before I
changed my mind and mounted them in the tunnel between the seats. I
plan on mounting the 't-bar' for the front seats in the forward part of
my overhead console and the aft one just above the seat crossbar.
I think putting the HSs down near the floor would subject them to being
stepped on ..... or the cords ...... causing damage. I'd rethink that
location.
Linn
>
> Thanks..
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
> *
>
>
> *
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
Thanks Lew...
I'll check the hardware list this evening and confirm I have the
hardware before getting on the list.
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Lew Gallagher [mailto:lewgall@charter.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 7:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in
circulation?]
Hey Phil,
I'm pretty sure that you got the two large flat head screws for the
seatbelt canopy attach points with the canopy. You don't need your
seatbelts yet -- if you are going with the standard Van's set up, you
can go ahead and drill/countersink in the center of the two hard points
in the canopy (two round indentions in the canopy above the passenger
seats that are solid, not honeycombed like the rest of the canopy). I
sunk them a bit more so that I could anchor the head then glass over the
head before painting.
Email me if you want on the list.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Avionics in, engine started!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290434#290434
Message 26
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| Subject: | Prestige Aircraft painting? |
Looks like at least one RV-10 has been painted at Prestige Aircraft in
Vermont? Whoever that is, are you on the list? I'd like to get your
opinions off-line.
Thanks,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 27
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Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the rear of the plastic
strips so that the seat will tip up for removal.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat rails
Hey John,
The picture was attached to the post, but here it is again.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez <mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails
When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested
> Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails
> From: lewgall@charter.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of -10's -
if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he trimmed off the
upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after removing the seat
position pin, the seat slides back, then tips up without hitting the flap
tunnel covers. I did that today and it works like a charm.
>
> Perhaps this has been covered by others, but I don't remember it, and I'm
too tired tonight to search it!
>
> I'll attach a pic.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Avionics in, engine started!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rail====================
> _====
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 28
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I agree, if it is really twisted it's time to start calling Van's out on the
quality of the quick builds. It may be a new factory but it's the same company
as before doing it.
For quick builds the best bang for the buck is probably the wings. Lots of different
things to do with the fuselage but those wings are mind numbingly repetitive.
Just as you hit the point of going bonkers from the repetition on one
wing, you get to do it again on the other. FUN! I did most of my wing skins
at 5am before work when the body was on auto pilot and the brain was still waiting
for the predawn fog to lift. :)
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 5:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
Russell,
For once I'm really not trying to be a smart A** but I am really glad I didn't
go the QB route. Building the fuselage was the most fun of all the kits IMHO.
These problems seem to have started to crop up after Vans changed contractors
in the PI. I feel for you guys who forked over the extra $ to get a product that
seems to not live up to the extra cost/time value. If you have a no sh*t twist
in your fuselage Russell the end result will be an airframe that is not true.
The fuselage is the trunk of the tree and the wing/HS/VS incidences along
with the thrust line are all established of off it. Regardless of the time involved,
I would demand a new one.
Rick S.
Getting close to 100 hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Shavitz
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
I pulled my floor out and all the holes are drilled but they do not match the side
channels and
the back of the fuse does not match the tailcone bulkhead there is a twist in the
fuse. Is this normal and will it straighten when I install the tailcone.
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
>Sent: Mar 15, 2010 7:27 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
>
>
>Welcome to the new QB factory!
>
>Actually I believe I can explain this one:
>
>"2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so
the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially
the side channels."
>
>On my QB kit, there were 3-4 holes that were not drilled through the floor pans
and into the side channels. I thought I had the same issue, but after digging
around with a flashlight and mirror to look underneath, I could see that they
left those holes untouched. The only logic I could come up with is that the
twist is slightly different from fuse to fuse, so they wanted to leave those
holes untouched until each of us could put our own floor boards in.
>
>I'll bet your holes aren't drilled either. It's pretty easy to see with an inspection
mirror and a small flashlight.
>
>Phil
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net]
>Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:02 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
>
>
>I am finally getting around to doing Van's quality control inspection on my RV-10
quick build fuselage. I have counted 43 errors or omissions. Some of these
are very minor, like snap bushings not being installed, some are a little harder;
having to drill out AN470 rivets to install flush rivets.
>
>The areas of major concern, and maybe someone can enlighten me are:
>1.)the bend angle in the rear of the fuselage does not match the F-1006 bulkhead
and the F-1023B gussets does not match the holes in the underlying structure.
>2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the
1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially
the side channels.
>
>Can anyone tell me if this is going to be a big problem?
>
>3.)all of my interior sheet metal did not get machine counter sunk for the #8
screws - can you machine counter sink these parts that have nut plates behind
them already?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>Russell Shavitz
>Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>office: 847-678-1000
>cell: 847-417-6622
>www.shavitz.com
>
>
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
I mounted my jacks along with a power plug and entertainment jack (1/8") in
the tunnel cover between the seat bottoms.
On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 1:42 AM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
> Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers,
> right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires
> don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have
> any comments/suggestions?
>
> Thanks..
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 30
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Less intrusive...works great too. I just 45ved the nylon parts and it
tips up and comes out fine.
Tim
On Mar 16, 2010, at 1:04 PM, "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
wrote:
> Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the rear of the
> plastic strips so that the seat will tip up for removal.
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> N991RV
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat rails
>
>
> Hey John,
>
>
> The picture was attached to the post, but here it is again.
>
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: John Gonzalez
>
> To: RV 10 group
>
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:19 PM
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails
>
>
> When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails
> > From: lewgall@charter.net
> > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of
> -10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he
> trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that
> after removing the seat position pin, the seat slides back, then
> tips up without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and
> it works like a charm.
> >
> > Perhaps this has been covered by others, but I don't remember it,
> and I'm too tired tonight to search it!
> >
> > I'll attach a pic.
> >
> > Later, - Lew
> >
> > --------
> > non-pilot
> > crazy about building
> > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> > Avionics in, engine started!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rail====================
> > _====
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 31
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Jim Berry wrote:
>
> I have read, maybe in LightPlane Mainteance, that lifting the plane by the engine
strap can crack the crankcase.
I suppose that might be possible ..... but don't know how probable.
> Fortunately not one of those things that I learned by experience.
>
I'm with ya on that! :-D I'm hoping that someone with experience
will chime in . Maybe someone with W&B info can tell us what the weight
on the nosewheel is.
Linn
do not archive
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290471#290471
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
not needed. find the area with a light and drill the hole in the center of
it, than countersink.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in
circulation?]
>
> I've got my cabin top, but I don't have the mounting hardware yet.
>
> I'm guessing I should wait until I get the HW to countersink the canopy?
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:29 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in
> circulation?]
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Thanks for the countersink Lew. I put it to good use by getting 4
> sinks out of it.
>
> Congrats on getting to the first inspection!
>
> Bill Watson.
>
>
> Lew Gallagher wrote:
>>
>> Hey All,
>>
>> The magical traveling countersink is finished up with Rob and headed
> back to me, so if anyone has an un-sunk canopy, now is the time to
> detour it to you on it's way. Post here and we'll get it to you.
>>
>> By the way, we had our FIRST inspection this Saturday and today we'll
> finish up the list of good catches he found. Ready for re-inspection
> next weekend, then cross training in TX for Wes and he'll be ready to
> go. Still have no intention of flying with him, but the excitement is
> infectious!
>>
>> Later, - Lew
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> --------
>> non-pilot
>> crazy about building
>> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
>> Avionics in, engine started!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 33
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My apologies... I thought you were talking about the side channels in the front
floorboards... Those are the ones that were not drilled that I was referring
to.
The rear baggage floors aligned for me.
BTW after attaching the tailcone, I checked the entire length of the tailcone/QB
forward fuselage assembly for twist with a digital level. At the very most,
it's twisted 1/10th of a degree.
Much straighter than the old-time RV's that were built with bubble levels.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 3:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
I pulled my floor out and all the holes are drilled but they do not match the side
channels and
the back of the fuse does not match the tailcone bulkhead there is a twist in the
fuse. Is this normal and will it straighten when I install the tailcone.
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
>Sent: Mar 15, 2010 7:27 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
>
>
>Welcome to the new QB factory!
>
>Actually I believe I can explain this one:
>
>"2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so
the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially
the side channels."
>
>On my QB kit, there were 3-4 holes that were not drilled through the floor pans
and into the side channels. I thought I had the same issue, but after digging
around with a flashlight and mirror to look underneath, I could see that they
left those holes untouched. The only logic I could come up with is that the
twist is slightly different from fuse to fuse, so they wanted to leave those
holes untouched until each of us could put our own floor boards in.
>
>I'll bet your holes aren't drilled either. It's pretty easy to see with an inspection
mirror and a small flashlight.
>
>Phil
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net]
>Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:02 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Bent fuselage
>
>
>I am finally getting around to doing Van's quality control inspection on my RV-10
quick build fuselage. I have counted 43 errors or omissions. Some of these
are very minor, like snap bushings not being installed, some are a little harder;
having to drill out AN470 rivets to install flush rivets.
>
>The areas of major concern, and maybe someone can enlighten me are:
>1.)the bend angle in the rear of the fuselage does not match the F-1006 bulkhead
and the F-1023B gussets does not match the holes in the underlying structure.
>2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the
1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially
the side channels.
>
>Can anyone tell me if this is going to be a big problem?
>
>3.)all of my interior sheet metal did not get machine counter sunk for the #8
screws - can you machine counter sink these parts that have nut plates behind
them already?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>Russell Shavitz
>Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>office: 847-678-1000
>cell: 847-417-6622
>www.shavitz.com
>
>
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
Try mounting them in the rear arm rests using the specially designed recessed holder
that you can purchase for $16.00 at Spruces.
--------
Conrad Booze
Sr. Engineer
P. O. Box 7028
Warner Robins, GA. 31095
(478)-335-4264
conradbooze@cox.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290505#290505
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/section_op37_wiring_harness_page37_7_step_4_144.jpg
Message 35
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Sorry, I should have said the FRONT of the strip since that is where the
interference occures when trying to remove the seat.
Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the rear of the plastic
strips so that the seat will tip up for removal.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 36
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| Subject: | Jumper plug and recepticle. |
Hey John,
Did you go with the Piper plug? I wonder if the Cessna would be
lighter?
Phil
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
Some good advice would be appreciated.
A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I
placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite
surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would
find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is
that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable
which needs to be attached to the plug.
This is quite an large heavy item.
Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane
and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a
towplane and a good thermal day.
People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a
serious battery recharge?
I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
Thanks,
JOhn
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
I mounted my jacks along with a power plug and entertainment jack (1/8") in
the tunnel cover between the seat bottoms.
On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 1:42 AM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
> Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers,
> right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires
> don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have
> any comments/suggestions?
>
> Thanks..
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. |
I'm working on my first fuel tank and I'm having trouble getting the skin to fit
to the ribs. It's like the skin was bent at too small a radius at the leading
edge. I have the ribs cleco'ed to the top side of the tank skin, but I cannot
get even CLOSE to getting the holes on the other side to align. I had some
difficulty with the same phase of the outboard leading edges, but nothing like
this tank skin.
So, the question is: Is there a trick I'm missing?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290524#290524
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
Conrad,
Would you share pictures of your installation?
Larry Rosen
conradb wrote:
>
> Try mounting them in the rear arm rests using the specially designed recessed
holder that you can purchase for $16.00 at Spruces.
>
> --------
> Conrad Booze
> Sr. Engineer
> P. O. Box 7028
> Warner Robins, GA. 31095
> (478)-335-4264
> conradbooze@cox.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290505#290505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/section_op37_wiring_harness_page37_7_step_4_144.jpg
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers |
The torque tube covers need to come off for inspection; do you want to
disconnect each time?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers
Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers,
right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires
don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have
any comments/suggestions?
Thanks..
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 41
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It always amazes me when people are willing to jack a $150000 aircraft with
a makeshift arrangement. Dropping an aircraft will be expensive in both
dollars and time. Aircraft jacks normally require a hydraulic mechanism for
lifting and a locking mechanism to hold the aircraft if a hydraulic cylinder
fails. I have attached several pictures of the jacks we built to jack high
wing aircraft and low wing aircraft like the RV10. You should be able to see
the hydraulic jacks that are available of the shelf and the additional steel
tubing, large nut and threaded steel rod. On the high wing jacks we use
steel bolts inserted into the tubing to lock in place after the lift. On the
low wing jacks the jacks them selves have a locking mechanism and we simply
welded the tube onto the jack and welded the nut and inserted the threaded
rod. One picture is the moveable tail stand/weight. BTW do not use the
threaded tie down bolt areas as the tapped block does not reach the skin (on
my QB wings) and the Vans supplied jack points will compress the skin of the
wing and eventually crack and break it. On top of the jacks we use wooden
block with baffling material siliconed on to protect the surface. We also
place the jack under the main spar.
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
I installed a cessna receptacle aft of baggage bulkhead and use a a/c
spruce plug. I have used it twice when trouble with hot start.
Everyone carries jumper cables in their truck. I never worry about a
start. That is worts alot to me. Robert
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
606 N. Carancahua Street
Suite 1200
Corpus Christi, Texas 78476
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Mar 16, 2010, at 11:15 AM, "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
wrote:
> Hey John,
>
> Did you go with the Piper plug? I wonder if the Cessna would be
> lighter?
>
>
> Phil
>
>
> From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:12 PM
> To: RV 10 group
> Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
>
>
> Some good advice would be appreciated.
>
> A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I
> placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite
> surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one
> would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem
> with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not
> include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug.
>
> This is quite an large heavy item.
>
> Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my
> plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I
> need a towplane and a good thermal day.
>
> People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart
> or a serious battery recharge?
>
> I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 43
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Yeah, no kidding.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 1:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Taxes
One of the most beautiful places in the world. It's a shame CA just doesn't
get it.
chuck(at)chuckdirect.com wrote:
> We're moving out of California. Too many taxes/fees
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290341#290341
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. |
The RV10 tank ribs tend to be pretty tight. I put the tank skin on my work
table on top of a piece of styrofoam...then cleco the ribs to the bottom of
the skin from the inside. (the clecos just go into the styro without bending
anything) Then you can carefully roll the top down and try to get the clecos
on top started. Start with the far left rib and try for the 3rd hole up from
the from the leading edge. Then get a couple more in that rib before moving
to the next one right. It does take a bit of patience and you will bend the
crap out of a few clecos.
Good luck..feel free to call with questions.
Evan
evansaviationproducts.com
(530)351-1776
----- Original Message -----
From: "stuewe" <stuewe@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs.
>
> I'm working on my first fuel tank and I'm having trouble getting the skin
> to fit to the ribs. It's like the skin was bent at too small a radius at
> the leading edge. I have the ribs cleco'ed to the top side of the tank
> skin, but I cannot get even CLOSE to getting the holes on the other side
> to align. I had some difficulty with the same phase of the outboard
> leading edges, but nothing like this tank skin.
>
> So, the question is: Is there a trick I'm missing?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290524#290524
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
Phil, I think you're right. It's lighter, but has a larger footprint
and needs a separate door, IIRC.
The piper just needs a round hole Vs. the oval hole for Cessna ......
and the Piper has it's own door.
Linn
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> Hey John,
>
> Did you go with the Piper plug? I wonder if the Cessna would be lighter?
>
>
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, March 15, 2010 4:12 PM
> *To:* RV 10 group
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle.
>
>
>
>
>
> Some good advice would be appreciated.
>
> A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I
> placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite
> surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one
> would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with
> it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include
> the cable which needs to be attached to the plug.
>
> This is quite an large heavy item.
>
> Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane
> and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a
> towplane and a good thermal day.
>
> People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or
> a serious battery recharge?
>
> I am seriously thinking of returning this item.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 46
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Hey David, et al,
That's a sweet jack! I'm on it. Looks like:
https://www.toolsmithonline.com/products.php?product=Powerbuilt%C2%AE-3-Ton-All%252dIn%252dOne-Bottle-Jack%7B47%7DJack-Stand
has the jack/stand. I assume you haven't had any problems with the safety ratchet?
A quick google search turned up several complaints of Powerbuilt's regular
jack stands failing -- evidently cheaply cast China ratchet.
About the wing tiedown not being flush with the skin: I've made a stud that screws
into the tiedown with a shoulder on it so that the weight is on the threads,
not the skin -- is that a bad idea? better to spread the weight on the skin?
I'd still like some examples of when both wheels need to be jacked off the ground.
Just a thought about using the engine hoist point to raise the nose wheel: with
the engine mounted, the tail acts as a counterweight and the force on the hoist
point is less than when lifting the engine by itself ... so what could the
problem be?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Avionics in, engine started!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290541#290541
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. |
I've just been through this stage, so I understand your difficulties. The
tanks are just like the outboard leading edges, but worse, since they have
0.032" thick skin.
I found it best to start attaching the ribs by clecoing the forward holes
while the skin was not in the cradle. Then put the assembly int eh cradle
and cleco the rest of the holes.
The good news is, once you match-drill and dimple the holes, it goes
together much easier. But you are at the "fun" part of the fuel tanks.
Just wait until you get to cleco it together with dark grey "Pookie" all
over everything, including your expensive tools, your clothes, your skin and
your hair. Life just doesn't get any better than this.
Jack Phillips
# 40610 Wings (Fuel tanks)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of stuewe
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs.
I'm working on my first fuel tank and I'm having trouble getting the skin to
fit to the ribs. It's like the skin was bent at too small a radius at the
leading edge. I have the ribs cleco'ed to the top side of the tank skin,
but I cannot get even CLOSE to getting the holes on the other side to align.
I had some difficulty with the same phase of the outboard leading edges, but
nothing like this tank skin.
So, the question is: Is there a trick I'm missing?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290524#290524
Message 48
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I have a 3 blade Aero Composit prop and in order to remove the lower cowl I
have to pull the tail down so the front gear leg can drop down and provide
clearance. I have a 4-wheel HF furniture dolly wilh 180 lbs of concrete mix
on it and a block and tackle that does the job. My wing jacks (I'm glad I
have two) are HF rams in a plywood stand. I drilled a hole for a short piece
of threaded rod that replaces the wing tie-down so the plane can't slip off
of the jack. There is no safety lock on the jack so I block up the axel as
soon as I remove a wheel.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 49
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Why mickey mouse with expensive aircraft indeed! You normally will
only need one jack. Here is a high quality jack that I use on my
Mooney that should work on RV-10 by just screwing jack points in place
of tie-down rings:
http://www.aircraft-gse.com/lw-3.html
$180. They have gone up a whopping $30 since I bought mine 10 years ago.
On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 5:27 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
> It always amazes me when people are willing to jack a $150000 aircraft with
> a makeshift arrangement. Dropping an aircraft will be expensive in both
> dollars and time. Aircraft jacks normally require a hydraulic mechanism for
> lifting and a locking mechanism to hold the aircraft if a hydraulic cylinder
> fails. I have attached several pictures of the jacks we built to jack high
> wing aircraft and low wing aircraft like the RV10. You should be able to see
> the hydraulic jacks that are available of the shelf and the additional steel
> tubing, large nut and threaded steel rod. On the high wing jacks we use
> steel bolts inserted into the tubing to lock in place after the lift. On the
> low wing jacks the jacks them selves have a locking mechanism and we simply
> welded the tube onto the jack and welded the nut and inserted the threaded
> rod. One picture is the moveable tail stand/weight. BTW do not use the
> threaded tie down bolt areas as the tapped block does not reach the skin (on
> my QB wings) and the Vans supplied jack points will compress the skin of the
> wing and eventually crack and break it. On top of the jacks we use wooden
> block with baffling material siliconed on to protect the surface. We also
> place the jack under the main spar.
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. |
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