---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 03/16/10: 50 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:18 AM - Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Rob Kochman) 2. 12:55 AM - Re: Re: Wing jacks (Bill Watson) 3. 02:22 AM - Re: Jumper plug and receptacle. (John Gonzalez) 4. 03:55 AM - Re: Bent fuselage (Kelly McMullen) 5. 04:49 AM - Re: Seat rails (John Gonzalez) 6. 05:35 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Pascal) 7. 05:49 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Linn Walters) 8. 05:54 AM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Perry, Phil) 9. 05:56 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) 10. 06:07 AM - [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Lew Gallagher) 11. 06:54 AM - Re: Seat rails (Lew Gallagher) 12. 07:28 AM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (johngoodman) 13. 07:50 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (David Maib) 14. 08:53 AM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (rv10flyer) 15. 08:53 AM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (AirMike) 16. 09:43 AM - Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems (AirMike) 17. 10:47 AM - Re: Jumper plug and receptacle. (gary) 18. 10:55 AM - Jump start (Chris Hukill) 19. 12:04 PM - Re: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems (Pascal) 20. 12:05 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 21. 12:09 PM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Linn Walters) 22. 12:23 PM - Re: Re: Wing jacks (Linn Walters) 23. 01:03 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Jim Berry) 24. 01:52 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Linn Walters) 25. 01:52 PM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Perry, Phil) 26. 01:55 PM - Prestige Aircraft painting? (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy) 27. 01:55 PM - Re: Seat rails (Albert Gardner) 28. 02:06 PM - Re: Bent fuselage (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 29. 03:02 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Jim Combs) 30. 03:02 PM - Re: Seat rails (Tim Olson) 31. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Wing jacks (Linn Walters) 32. 03:35 PM - Re: [Fw: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] (Pascal) 33. 03:39 PM - Re: Bent fuselage (Perry, Phil) 34. 03:39 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (conradb) 35. 03:53 PM - FW: Seat rails (Albert Gardner) 36. 04:11 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Perry, Phil) 37. 04:16 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Jim Combs) 38. 06:03 PM - Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. (stuewe) 39. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (Larry Rosen) 40. 06:14 PM - Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers (DLM) 41. 06:14 PM - Wing jacks (DLM) 42. 07:06 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Robert Brunkenhoefer) 43. 07:06 PM - Re: Re: Taxes (Chuck Weyant) 44. 07:06 PM - Re: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. (Johnson) 45. 07:08 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Linn Walters) 46. 10:01 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Lew Gallagher) 47. 10:04 PM - Re: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. (Jack Phillips) 48. 10:04 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Albert Gardner) 49. 10:04 PM - Re: Wing jacks (Kelly McMullen) 50. 11:06 PM - Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. (Perry, Phil) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:18:30 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers From: Rob Kochman Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers, right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have any comments/suggestions? Thanks.. -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:55:56 AM PST US From: "Bill Watson" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wing jacks I don't have wings on but I use 2 nylon web straps under motor mount tubing to lift the front up.  Can send a pic or 2 if it will help.  Anc horing tail sounds like it will solve problem of having the engine stand ro lling around. -- Sent from my Palm Pre On Mar 15, 2010 11:09 PM, Jim Berry <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> Another way to raise the nose wheel is to remove the upper cowl, place a lo op of nylon webbing through the upper motor mount tubes, and lift with your engine hoist. It is my understanding that you do not want to use the engin e lift point. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290413#290413 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 02:22:24 AM PST US From: John Gonzalez Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle. It seems that this recepticle is overkill. There are two issues that make n eed of such a item. Battery recharge Accesibility If I am not going to fly with a jump started battery(s) then how about just putting two AN4 bolts sticking out of the rear baggage bulkhead which are isolated from grounding on the metal by using rubber gromits. Each of these bolts can be coverred with covers when not in use so they don't arc and bl ow up the kid in the back who is playing with matches. Seems like this would solve both of the above issues and I only add the wei ght of the bolts=2C washer=2C nuts=2C grommets and the cable=2C and I don't but a whole in the fuse that weakens it. How does this sound? JOhn From: ricksked@cox.net Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle. John=2C I=92m running two 680=92s=2C my batteries are accessible through a rear pan el in the aft baggage bulkhead. I have a solid state charger from Odyssey =2C (see Tim=92s site=2C it=92s the same) that will bring those batteries u p to full charge in 15 minutes if needed. I only use it if we are playing w ith the avionics for a long time on battery power. Either one=2C fully char ged will start the engine. If I were to do it again I might consider a plug =2C not that heavy duty you=92re looking at but one I=92ve seen on other li ght aircraft. Why? Only if I needed to charge a battery on the road at and FBO=2C I=92ll swap one battery this summer with a new one=2C the other next summer=85always have a fairly new battery onboard at all times that way. Rick S. From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday=2C March 15=2C 2010 2:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbe lly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and f inding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly=2C I need a towplane and a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes=2C how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks=2C JOhn http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.c omhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 03:55:15 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bent fuselage From: Kelly McMullen You will find that all the holes along the baggage floor have to be pulled inward because they didn't put quite enough curve in the bottom skin. Until you have the tailcone cleco'd on, you won't be able to tell how some of the longerons line up. Finished this on my QB a couple weeks ago. On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 1:56 PM, Russell Shavitz wrote: > > I pulled my floor out and all the holes are drilled but they do not match the side channels and > the back of the fuse does not match the tailcone bulkhead there is a twist in the fuse. Is this normal and will it straighten when I install the tailcone. > > > -----Original Message----- >>From: "Perry, Phil" >>Sent: Mar 15, 2010 7:27 AM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage >> >> >>Welcome to the new QB factory! >> >>Actually I believe I can explain this one: >> >>"2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially the side channels." >> >>On my QB kit, there were 3-4 holes that were not drilled through the floor pans and into the side channels. I thought I had the same issue, but after digging around with a flashlight and mirror to look underneath, I could see that they left those holes untouched. The only logic I could come up with is that the twist is slightly different from fuse to fuse, so they wanted to leave those holes untouched until each of us could put our own floor boards in. >> >>I'll bet your holes aren't drilled either. It's pretty easy to see with an inspection mirror and a small flashlight. >> >>Phil >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net] >>Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:02 PM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RV10-List: Bent fuselage >> >> >>I am finally getting around to doing Van's quality control inspection on my RV-10 quick build fuselage. I have counted 43 errors or omissions. Some of these are very minor, like snap bushings not being installed, some are a little harder; having to drill out AN470 rivets to install flush rivets. >> >>The areas of major concern, and maybe someone can enlighten me are: >>1.)the bend angle in the rear of the fuselage does not match the F-1006 bulkhead and the F-1023B gussets does not match the holes in the underlying structure. >>2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially the side channels. >> >>Can anyone tell me if this is going to be a big problem? >> >>3.)all of my interior sheet metal did not get machine counter sunk for the #8 screws - can you machine counter sink these parts that have nut plates behind them already? >> >>Thanks. >> >> >> >>Russell Shavitz >>Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning >>4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 >>office: 847-678-1000 >>cell: 847-417-6622 >>www.shavitz.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > Russell Shavitz > Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning > 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 > office: 847-678-1000 > cell: 847-417-6622 > www.shavitz.com > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:49:19 AM PST US From: John Gonzalez Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested > Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails > From: lewgall@charter.net > Date: Mon=2C 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700 > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > > Hey Guys=2C > > I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of -10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after removing the seat pos ition pin=2C the seat slides back=2C then tips up without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and it works like a charm. > > Perhaps this has been covered by others=2C but I don't remember it=2C and I'm too tired tonight to search it! > > I'll attach a pic. > > Later=2C - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Avionics in=2C engine started! > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rails_medium_130.jpg > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:35:26 AM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. get a battery tender for aircraft- a few wires and a place to put the female connection in the rear and you're set. Wont help for jump starting but it does recharge so with patience it would get the battery back to charges after a while. Pascal From: John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane and a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks, JOhn ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:49:56 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. John Gonzalez wrote: > > > Some good advice would be appreciated. > > A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I > placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite > surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one > would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with > it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include > the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. > > This is quite an large heavy item. True ..... but how much did that dinner last night weigh? Or how heavy is your 'tool box'? I agree that every ounce adds up. > > Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane > and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a > towplane and a good thermal day. > > People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or > a serious battery recharge? That depends on how often you leave something on, or how old your battery is (usually coupled with cold weather). Or anything else unusual. > > I am seriously thinking of returning this item. I'm keeping mine. I've had a couple of missed flights ..... usually due to aged batteries. They test good at annual, but don't last the year or a hard start. Linn > > Thanks, > > JOhn > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:54:08 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] From: "Perry, Phil" I've got my cabin top, but I don't have the mounting hardware yet. I'm guessing I should wait until I get the HW to countersink the canopy? Phil -----Original Message----- From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com] Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:29 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] Thanks for the countersink Lew. I put it to good use by getting 4 sinks out of it. Congrats on getting to the first inspection! Bill Watson. Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey All, > > The magical traveling countersink is finished up with Rob and headed back to me, so if anyone has an un-sunk canopy, now is the time to detour it to you on it's way. Post here and we'll get it to you. > > By the way, we had our FIRST inspection this Saturday and today we'll finish up the list of good catches he found. Ready for re-inspection next weekend, then cross training in TX for Wes and he'll be ready to go. Still have no intention of flying with him, but the excitement is infectious! > > Later, - Lew > > do not archive > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Avionics in, engine started! > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:56:52 AM PST US From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Yeah they weigh a lot. That being said if you ever find yourself dead on the ramp, you will be most happy you installed one. It is pretty much the standard receptacle that just about any FBO can jump. I Installed mine next to the battery tray behind the aft baggage bulkhead with a small access door. David Clifford RV-10 In Progress Empennage Done Engine Overhauled & Pickled Closing up The Wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 5:12:08 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane and a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks, JOhn ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:07:00 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] From: "Lew Gallagher" Hey Phil, I'm pretty sure that you got the two large flat head screws for the seatbelt canopy attach points with the canopy. You don't need your seatbelts yet -- if you are going with the standard Van's set up, you can go ahead and drill/countersink in the center of the two hard points in the canopy (two round indentions in the canopy above the passenger seats that are solid, not honeycombed like the rest of the canopy). I sunk them a bit more so that I could anchor the head then glass over the head before painting. Email me if you want on the list. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Avionics in, engine started! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290434#290434 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:54:34 AM PST US From: "Lew Gallagher" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat rails Hey John, The picture was attached to the post, but here it is again. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez To: RV 10 group Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested > Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails > From: lewgall@charter.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700 > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > > Hey Guys, > > I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of -10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after removing the seat position pin, the seat slides back, then tips up without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and it works like a charm. > > Perhaps this has been covered by others, but I don't remember it, and I'm too tired tonight to search it! > > I'll attach a pic. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Avionics in, engine started! > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rail========== > _==== > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:28:38 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers From: "johngoodman" Rob, I don't see anything wrong with it except when you need to remove the cover to take out the front seats. However, I just noticed a post with a mod to the seat rails that would solve that problem. John -------- #40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290442#290442 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:50:56 AM PST US From: David Maib Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. John, Due to my own negligence, I had to have a jumpstart on the first engine run! It's a long story, but the bottom line is, it was very nice to have the ability. Lots of pilots would be reluctant to go fly an airplane that required a jumpstart because the battery was dead for some unknown reason. For me, that would be a large red flag. However, the real value for me is that I can hook up power in the hangar and play with avionics as long as I want. I use this function probably once a week. Every time I update databases, preloading flight plans, any maintenance where I want to operate flaps, lights, etc. It is heavy (it sounds like I have the same one you bought), but I would hate to be without it. David Maib 40559 Flying On Mar 15, 2010, at 5:12 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane and a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks, JOhn ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:53:36 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Jumper plug and recepticle. From: "rv10flyer" I will replace battery every 5 yrs like I do on my personal and work vehicles. Use the old batteries in not so important places like the lawn mower, tractor, hangar 12v power supply(always connected to battery tender). Never had to have a jump on any primary vehicles. Secondary vehicles yes but they are easy to jump and then go to auto parts place and get another. I will install "Master On" indicator. I will install one fused wire to "Bat" terminal on master relay with easily accessible jack and another fused wire to opposite terminal for external power supply. Battery master switch/relay will not have to be energized consuming power. No external power relay, no external power master switch, no extra wires to panel, no heavy wires or external power connectors needed, no access cover needed. Saves money, 3+ lbs of weight, time. I may regret it one of these days though... -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 Emp 12/01/09-3/15/10 333 hrs Wings 3/15/10- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290449#290449 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:53:37 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers From: "AirMike" Put mine on the "armrests" - seemed easier for maintenance. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290450#290450 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:43:00 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems From: "AirMike" I decided to go ahead and install Vans door latch S/B. Having returned from one flight to find my door had only been halfway latched, I figured that an extra independent fail safe system was not such a bad idea. Also if I decide to sell the plane later I can say that all S/B's are in compliance. In any case I have had some problems getting the installation done. 1. The spring fits in such a way that it pressed against the outer door skin and seems to bind against the bolt in such a way as to restrict the movement of the latch. How have others resolved this? 2. The "Z" clip is too short. It does not seem to reach the aluminum door frame so as to be riveted. Do I need to cut down the composite part of the door frame? -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290453#290453 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:47:53 AM PST US From: "gary" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle. I went down to the local welding shop and purchased 2 plugs and receptacles for welding cables. One is red and the other is black. They are cheap, light, look good. I placed them on a separate panel behind the rear bulkhead and the head of each pokes through a hole in the upholstery. Neat set up if I do say so myself. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:35 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle. It seems that this recepticle is overkill. There are two issues that make need of such a item. Battery recharge Accesibility If I am not going to fly with a jump started battery(s) then how about just putting two AN4 bolts sticking out of the rear baggage bulkhead which are isolated from grounding on the metal by using rubber gromits. Each of these bolts can be coverred with covers when not in use so they don't arc and blow up the kid in the back who is playing with matches. Seems like this would solve both of the above issues and I only add the weight of the bolts, washer, nuts, grommets and the cable, and I don't but a whole in the fuse that weakens it. How does this sound? JOhn _____ From: ricksked@cox.net Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and receptacle. John, I'm running two 680's, my batteries are accessible through a rear panel in the aft baggage bulkhead. I have a solid state charger from Odyssey, (see Tim's site, it's the same) that will bring those batteries up to full charge in 15 minutes if needed. I only use it if we are playing with the avionics for a long time on battery power. Either one, fully charged will start the engine. If I were to do it again I might consider a plug, not that heavy duty you're looking at but one I've seen on other light aircraft. Why? Only if I needed to charge a battery on the road at and FBO, I'll swap one battery this summer with a new one, the other next summer.always have a fairly new battery onboard at all times that way. Rick S. From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane and a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks, JOhn http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 10:55:58 AM PST US From: "Chris Hukill" Subject: RV10-List: Jump start I am doing it the same way as my RV8. I have a cigar lighter plug near the battery for trickle charge and avionics work, and a door in the baggage bulkhead thru which I reach in to attach standard automotive jumper cables to the hot lug of the master contactor and a grounding lug. Now in the rare event you need an emergency jump to leave town, any passing motorist has the cables you need. No dead weight in the airplane. I actually had several occasions to need that setup in the RV8, all due to a bad starter that depleted my battery trying to get started. After finding that and replacing it, never had a need for jumping since. Chris Hukill Wiring the machine ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 12:04:03 PM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems I'll encourage you to do the less evasive solution and get the one Ed and Scott have installed, sounds like less work and a better solution. Was out at a RV-10 this weekend and the builder has been flying for 4 years, I hooked him up with Ed Hayden and heard him tell Ed that his door DID fly off and that the SB is garbage to resolve that problem- why? the door lifts up so the SB would do little to hold the door, 2nd- Vans never tested to verify it works.. If you're already committed than I hope others can learn from this. BTW- the builder I mention, who is to blame for my buiilding the RV-10 has a "L-bracket" in the center and uses a pin to hold the door in, very simple solution compared to the boat anchor Vans put out, not to mentioned significantly less expensive as well.. same problem from accessing from the outside in case of emergency. but far easier to implement. SB is voluntary, I personally would not buy a plane that had that SB in it, but that's me and I know there are other/better ways to do this.. Doesn't answer your question but hopefully it might help you go a different route. -------------------------------------------------- From: "AirMike" Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Van Door latch S/B - Installation problems > > I decided to go ahead and install Vans door latch S/B. Having returned > from one flight to find my door had only been halfway latched, I figured > that an extra independent fail safe system was not such a bad idea. Also > if I decide to sell the plane later I can say that all S/B's are in > compliance. > > In any case I have had some problems getting the installation done. > > 1. The spring fits in such a way that it pressed against the outer door > skin and seems to bind against the bolt in such a way as to restrict the > movement of the latch. How have others resolved this? > > 2. The "Z" clip is too short. It does not seem to reach the aluminum door > frame so as to be riveted. Do I need to cut down the composite part of the > door frame? > > -------- > OSH '10 or Bust > Q/B - testing phase 1 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290453#290453 > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:05:37 PM PST US From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is if you have anything that has a kee p alive it can drain your battery over time. Dynon's stuff was famous for this for a while, probably still is. But anything that requires a trickle for keeping state or batteries charged will drain your mains after a while. Even with the AGM's that don't lose charge when sitting there, I would re commend you put a maintainer on your battery if you let it sit for any exte nded period. I also have dual 680's and they are both on separate contactors with the battery bus off of just one. If one battery is dead I can isolate it for s tarting and then bring it back online to charge. I also have each LSE III ignition independently wired to each battery which further allows me to iso late them from the rest of the system by shutting off a battery contactor s hould the need arise. If anything in the electrical system is a problem th at requires me to kill the master, I don't have to worry about taking out t he ignition and each has an independent power supply at that point. Both o f my AFS, my Dynon backup, and my 496 all have internal batteries. Much l ike a vacuum/mag system I can kill my power and still keep going. Now ghos ts in the machine are a whole different potential problem :) Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 6:27 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. get a battery tender for aircraft- a few wires and a place to put the femal e connection in the rear and you're set. Wont help for jump starting but it does recharge so with patience it would get the battery back to charges af ter a while. Pascal From: John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbe lly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and f inding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane a nd a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a se rious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks, JOhn href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:09:32 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Phil, > > I'm pretty sure that you got the two large flat head screws for the seatbelt canopy attach points with the canopy. You don't need your seatbelts yet -- if you are going with the standard Van's set up, you can go ahead and drill/countersink in the center of the two hard points in the canopy (two round indentions in the canopy above the passenger seats that are solid, not honeycombed like the rest of the canopy). I sunk them a bit more so that I could anchor the head then glass over the head before painting. > And if you do anchor the head, add some notches or flats to the circumference for a little more grip. Linn > Email me if you want on the list. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Avionics in, engine started! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290434#290434 > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 12:23:58 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wing jacks Jim Berry wrote: > > Another way to raise the nose wheel is to remove the upper cowl, place a loop of nylon webbing through the upper motor mount tubes, and lift with your engine hoist. It is my understanding that you do not want to use the engine lift point. > I wonder why not. the engine mounts/isolators drag the whole airplane through the air. I've been using the engine strap for a long, long time .... without any bad effects. Maybe I've just 'dodged the bullet'? Linn > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290413#290413 > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 01:03:42 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing jacks From: "Jim Berry" I have read, maybe in LightPlane Mainteance, that lifting the plane by the engine strap can crack the crankcase. Fortunately not one of those things that I learned by experience. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290471#290471 ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 01:52:14 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers Rob Kochman wrote: > Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube > covers, right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, > where the wires don't block the doors and the connectors are out of > the way. Anyone have any comments/suggestions? I mounted my HS jacks in the panel (L & R sides like normal) before I changed my mind and mounted them in the tunnel between the seats. I plan on mounting the 't-bar' for the front seats in the forward part of my overhead console and the aft one just above the seat crossbar. I think putting the HSs down near the floor would subject them to being stepped on ..... or the cords ...... causing damage. I'd rethink that location. Linn > > Thanks.. > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 01:52:25 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] From: "Perry, Phil" Thanks Lew... I'll check the hardware list this evening and confirm I have the hardware before getting on the list. Thanks, Phil -----Original Message----- From: Lew Gallagher [mailto:lewgall@charter.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 7:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] Hey Phil, I'm pretty sure that you got the two large flat head screws for the seatbelt canopy attach points with the canopy. You don't need your seatbelts yet -- if you are going with the standard Van's set up, you can go ahead and drill/countersink in the center of the two hard points in the canopy (two round indentions in the canopy above the passenger seats that are solid, not honeycombed like the rest of the canopy). I sunk them a bit more so that I could anchor the head then glass over the head before painting. Email me if you want on the list. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Avionics in, engine started! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290434#290434 ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 01:55:12 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Prestige Aircraft painting? From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" Looks like at least one RV-10 has been painted at Prestige Aircraft in Vermont? Whoever that is, are you on the list? I'd like to get your opinions off-line. Thanks, TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend tdt@aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 01:55:23 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the rear of the plastic strips so that the seat will tip up for removal. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat rails Hey John, The picture was attached to the post, but here it is again. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested > Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails > From: lewgall@charter.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700 > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > > Hey Guys, > > I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of -10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after removing the seat position pin, the seat slides back, then tips up without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and it works like a charm. > > Perhaps this has been covered by others, but I don't remember it, and I'm too tired tonight to search it! > > I'll attach a pic. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Avionics in, engine started! > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rail==================== > _==== > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 02:06:34 PM PST US From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage I agree, if it is really twisted it's time to start calling Van's out on the quality of the quick builds. It may be a new factory but it's the same company as before doing it. For quick builds the best bang for the buck is probably the wings. Lots of different things to do with the fuselage but those wings are mind numbingly repetitive. Just as you hit the point of going bonkers from the repetition on one wing, you get to do it again on the other. FUN! I did most of my wing skins at 5am before work when the body was on auto pilot and the brain was still waiting for the predawn fog to lift. :) Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 5:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage Russell, For once I'm really not trying to be a smart A** but I am really glad I didn't go the QB route. Building the fuselage was the most fun of all the kits IMHO. These problems seem to have started to crop up after Vans changed contractors in the PI. I feel for you guys who forked over the extra $ to get a product that seems to not live up to the extra cost/time value. If you have a no sh*t twist in your fuselage Russell the end result will be an airframe that is not true. The fuselage is the trunk of the tree and the wing/HS/VS incidences along with the thrust line are all established of off it. Regardless of the time involved, I would demand a new one. Rick S. Getting close to 100 hours. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Shavitz Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 1:56 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage I pulled my floor out and all the holes are drilled but they do not match the side channels and the back of the fuse does not match the tailcone bulkhead there is a twist in the fuse. Is this normal and will it straighten when I install the tailcone. -----Original Message----- >From: "Perry, Phil" >Sent: Mar 15, 2010 7:27 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage > > >Welcome to the new QB factory! > >Actually I believe I can explain this one: > >"2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially the side channels." > >On my QB kit, there were 3-4 holes that were not drilled through the floor pans and into the side channels. I thought I had the same issue, but after digging around with a flashlight and mirror to look underneath, I could see that they left those holes untouched. The only logic I could come up with is that the twist is slightly different from fuse to fuse, so they wanted to leave those holes untouched until each of us could put our own floor boards in. > >I'll bet your holes aren't drilled either. It's pretty easy to see with an inspection mirror and a small flashlight. > >Phil > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net] >Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:02 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Bent fuselage > > >I am finally getting around to doing Van's quality control inspection on my RV-10 quick build fuselage. I have counted 43 errors or omissions. Some of these are very minor, like snap bushings not being installed, some are a little harder; having to drill out AN470 rivets to install flush rivets. > >The areas of major concern, and maybe someone can enlighten me are: >1.)the bend angle in the rear of the fuselage does not match the F-1006 bulkhead and the F-1023B gussets does not match the holes in the underlying structure. >2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially the side channels. > >Can anyone tell me if this is going to be a big problem? > >3.)all of my interior sheet metal did not get machine counter sunk for the #8 screws - can you machine counter sink these parts that have nut plates behind them already? > >Thanks. > > >Russell Shavitz >Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning >4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 >office: 847-678-1000 >cell: 847-417-6622 >www.shavitz.com > > Russell Shavitz Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 office: 847-678-1000 cell: 847-417-6622 www.shavitz.com ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:34 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers From: Jim Combs I mounted my jacks along with a power plug and entertainment jack (1/8") in the tunnel cover between the seat bottoms. On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 1:42 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: > Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers, > right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires > don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have > any comments/suggestions? > > Thanks.. > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:45 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat rails Less intrusive...works great too. I just 45ved the nylon parts and it tips up and comes out fine. Tim On Mar 16, 2010, at 1:04 PM, "Albert Gardner" wrote: > Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the rear of the > plastic strips so that the seat will tip up for removal. > > Albert Gardner > > N991RV > > Yuma, AZ > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher > Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:53 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat rails > > > Hey John, > > > The picture was attached to the post, but here it is again. > > > Later, - Lew > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: John Gonzalez > > To: RV 10 group > > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:19 PM > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat rails > > > When less tired please send a picture. I'm interested > > > Subject: RV10-List: Seat rails > > From: lewgall@charter.net > > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:14:29 -0700 > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > > > > > > > Hey Guys, > > > > I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of > -10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he > trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that > after removing the seat position pin, the seat slides back, then > tips up without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and > it works like a charm. > > > > Perhaps this has been covered by others, but I don't remember it, > and I'm too tired tonight to search it! > > > > I'll attach a pic. > > > > Later, - Lew > > > > -------- > > non-pilot > > crazy about building > > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > > Avionics in, engine started! > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290396#290396 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat_rail==================== > > _==== > > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// > www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 03:23:24 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wing jacks Jim Berry wrote: > > I have read, maybe in LightPlane Mainteance, that lifting the plane by the engine strap can crack the crankcase. I suppose that might be possible ..... but don't know how probable. > Fortunately not one of those things that I learned by experience. > I'm with ya on that! :-D I'm hoping that someone with experience will chime in . Maybe someone with W&B info can tell us what the weight on the nosewheel is. Linn do not archive > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290471#290471 > > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 03:35:35 PM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] not needed. find the area with a light and drill the hole in the center of it, than countersink. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Perry, Phil" Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:16 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] > > I've got my cabin top, but I don't have the mounting hardware yet. > > I'm guessing I should wait until I get the HW to countersink the canopy? > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com] > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:29 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Is a large countersink still in > circulation?] > > > > Thanks for the countersink Lew. I put it to good use by getting 4 > sinks out of it. > > Congrats on getting to the first inspection! > > Bill Watson. > > > Lew Gallagher wrote: >> >> Hey All, >> >> The magical traveling countersink is finished up with Rob and headed > back to me, so if anyone has an un-sunk canopy, now is the time to > detour it to you on it's way. Post here and we'll get it to you. >> >> By the way, we had our FIRST inspection this Saturday and today we'll > finish up the list of good catches he found. Ready for re-inspection > next weekend, then cross training in TX for Wes and he'll be ready to > go. Still have no intention of flying with him, but the excitement is > infectious! >> >> Later, - Lew >> >> do not archive >> >> -------- >> non-pilot >> crazy about building >> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 >> Avionics in, engine started! >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 03:39:45 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage From: "Perry, Phil" My apologies... I thought you were talking about the side channels in the front floorboards... Those are the ones that were not drilled that I was referring to. The rear baggage floors aligned for me. BTW after attaching the tailcone, I checked the entire length of the tailcone/QB forward fuselage assembly for twist with a digital level. At the very most, it's twisted 1/10th of a degree. Much straighter than the old-time RV's that were built with bubble levels. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 3:56 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage I pulled my floor out and all the holes are drilled but they do not match the side channels and the back of the fuse does not match the tailcone bulkhead there is a twist in the fuse. Is this normal and will it straighten when I install the tailcone. -----Original Message----- >From: "Perry, Phil" >Sent: Mar 15, 2010 7:27 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bent fuselage > > >Welcome to the new QB factory! > >Actually I believe I can explain this one: > >"2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially the side channels." > >On my QB kit, there were 3-4 holes that were not drilled through the floor pans and into the side channels. I thought I had the same issue, but after digging around with a flashlight and mirror to look underneath, I could see that they left those holes untouched. The only logic I could come up with is that the twist is slightly different from fuse to fuse, so they wanted to leave those holes untouched until each of us could put our own floor boards in. > >I'll bet your holes aren't drilled either. It's pretty easy to see with an inspection mirror and a small flashlight. > >Phil > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Russell Shavitz [mailto:rashvac@earthlink.net] >Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:02 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Bent fuselage > > >I am finally getting around to doing Van's quality control inspection on my RV-10 quick build fuselage. I have counted 43 errors or omissions. Some of these are very minor, like snap bushings not being installed, some are a little harder; having to drill out AN470 rivets to install flush rivets. > >The areas of major concern, and maybe someone can enlighten me are: >1.)the bend angle in the rear of the fuselage does not match the F-1006 bulkhead and the F-1023B gussets does not match the holes in the underlying structure. >2.)it does not look like they put any twist in the 1041 or 1040 channels, so the 1050 floor pan holes do not match up with all the underlying structure especially the side channels. > >Can anyone tell me if this is going to be a big problem? > >3.)all of my interior sheet metal did not get machine counter sunk for the #8 screws - can you machine counter sink these parts that have nut plates behind them already? > >Thanks. > > >Russell Shavitz >Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning >4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 >office: 847-678-1000 >cell: 847-417-6622 >www.shavitz.com > > Russell Shavitz Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 office: 847-678-1000 cell: 847-417-6622 www.shavitz.com ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 03:39:59 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers From: "conradb" Try mounting them in the rear arm rests using the specially designed recessed holder that you can purchase for $16.00 at Spruces. -------- Conrad Booze Sr. Engineer P. O. Box 7028 Warner Robins, GA. 31095 (478)-335-4264 conradbooze@cox.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290505#290505 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/section_op37_wiring_harness_page37_7_step_4_144.jpg ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 03:53:37 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: FW: RV10-List: Seat rails Sorry, I should have said the FRONT of the strip since that is where the interference occures when trying to remove the seat. Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the rear of the plastic strips so that the seat will tip up for removal. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 04:11:42 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. From: "Perry, Phil" Hey John, Did you go with the Piper plug? I wonder if the Cessna would be lighter? Phil From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com] Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Some good advice would be appreciated. A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. This is quite an large heavy item. Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a towplane and a good thermal day. People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or a serious battery recharge? I am seriously thinking of returning this item. Thanks, JOhn ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 04:16:21 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers From: Jim Combs I mounted my jacks along with a power plug and entertainment jack (1/8") in the tunnel cover between the seat bottoms. On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 1:42 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: > Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers, > right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires > don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have > any comments/suggestions? > > Thanks.. > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 06:03:33 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. From: "stuewe" I'm working on my first fuel tank and I'm having trouble getting the skin to fit to the ribs. It's like the skin was bent at too small a radius at the leading edge. I have the ribs cleco'ed to the top side of the tank skin, but I cannot get even CLOSE to getting the holes on the other side to align. I had some difficulty with the same phase of the outboard leading edges, but nothing like this tank skin. So, the question is: Is there a trick I'm missing? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290524#290524 ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 06:13:15 PM PST US From: Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers Conrad, Would you share pictures of your installation? Larry Rosen conradb wrote: > > Try mounting them in the rear arm rests using the specially designed recessed holder that you can purchase for $16.00 at Spruces. > > -------- > Conrad Booze > Sr. Engineer > P. O. Box 7028 > Warner Robins, GA. 31095 > (478)-335-4264 > conradbooze@cox.net > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290505#290505 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/section_op37_wiring_harness_page37_7_step_4_144.jpg > > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 06:14:55 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers The torque tube covers need to come off for inspection; do you want to disconnect each time? _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear headset jacks on torque tube covers Has anyone mounted their rear headset jacks on the flap torque tube covers, right next to the tunnel? Seems like a good location to me, where the wires don't block the doors and the connectors are out of the way. Anyone have any comments/suggestions? Thanks.. -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 06:14:56 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: RV10-List: Wing jacks It always amazes me when people are willing to jack a $150000 aircraft with a makeshift arrangement. Dropping an aircraft will be expensive in both dollars and time. Aircraft jacks normally require a hydraulic mechanism for lifting and a locking mechanism to hold the aircraft if a hydraulic cylinder fails. I have attached several pictures of the jacks we built to jack high wing aircraft and low wing aircraft like the RV10. You should be able to see the hydraulic jacks that are available of the shelf and the additional steel tubing, large nut and threaded steel rod. On the high wing jacks we use steel bolts inserted into the tubing to lock in place after the lift. On the low wing jacks the jacks them selves have a locking mechanism and we simply welded the tube onto the jack and welded the nut and inserted the threaded rod. One picture is the moveable tail stand/weight. BTW do not use the threaded tie down bolt areas as the tapped block does not reach the skin (on my QB wings) and the Vans supplied jack points will compress the skin of the wing and eventually crack and break it. On top of the jacks we use wooden block with baffling material siliconed on to protect the surface. We also place the jack under the main spar. ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:31 PM PST US From: Robert Brunkenhoefer Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. I installed a cessna receptacle aft of baggage bulkhead and use a a/c spruce plug. I have used it twice when trouble with hot start. Everyone carries jumper cables in their truck. I never worry about a start. That is worts alot to me. Robert Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 606 N. Carancahua Street Suite 1200 Corpus Christi, Texas 78476 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert@brunklaw.com On Mar 16, 2010, at 11:15 AM, "Perry, Phil" wrote: > Hey John, > > Did you go with the Piper plug? I wonder if the Cessna would be > lighter? > > > Phil > > > From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com] > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:12 PM > To: RV 10 group > Subject: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. > > > Some good advice would be appreciated. > > A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I > placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite > surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one > would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem > with it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not > include the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. > > This is quite an large heavy item. > > Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my > plane and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I > need a towplane and a good thermal day. > > People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart > or a serious battery recharge? > > I am seriously thinking of returning this item. > > Thanks, > > JOhn > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:31 PM PST US From: "Chuck Weyant" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Taxes Yeah, no kidding. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 1:54 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Taxes One of the most beautiful places in the world. It's a shame CA just doesn't get it. chuck(at)chuckdirect.com wrote: > We're moving out of California. Too many taxes/fees > > Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290341#290341 ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:33 PM PST US From: "Johnson" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. The RV10 tank ribs tend to be pretty tight. I put the tank skin on my work table on top of a piece of styrofoam...then cleco the ribs to the bottom of the skin from the inside. (the clecos just go into the styro without bending anything) Then you can carefully roll the top down and try to get the clecos on top started. Start with the far left rib and try for the 3rd hole up from the from the leading edge. Then get a couple more in that rib before moving to the next one right. It does take a bit of patience and you will bend the crap out of a few clecos. Good luck..feel free to call with questions. Evan evansaviationproducts.com (530)351-1776 ----- Original Message ----- From: "stuewe" Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. > > I'm working on my first fuel tank and I'm having trouble getting the skin > to fit to the ribs. It's like the skin was bent at too small a radius at > the leading edge. I have the ribs cleco'ed to the top side of the tank > skin, but I cannot get even CLOSE to getting the holes on the other side > to align. I had some difficulty with the same phase of the outboard > leading edges, but nothing like this tank skin. > > So, the question is: Is there a trick I'm missing? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290524#290524 > > > ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 07:08:17 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. Phil, I think you're right. It's lighter, but has a larger footprint and needs a separate door, IIRC. The piper just needs a round hole Vs. the oval hole for Cessna ...... and the Piper has it's own door. Linn Perry, Phil wrote: > > Hey John, > > Did you go with the Piper plug? I wonder if the Cessna would be lighter? > > > > Phil > > > > > > > > *From:* John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com] > *Sent:* Monday, March 15, 2010 4:12 PM > *To:* RV 10 group > *Subject:* RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. > > > > > > Some good advice would be appreciated. > > A few weeks ago I saw a post about Aircraft Spruce's jumper plug. I > placed an order for several items and bought this too. I am quite > surprised by the quality of this unit as it looks like a unit one > would find on the underbelly of a commercial airliner. My problem with > it is that it weighs 1 pound seven ounces and that does not include > the cable which needs to be attached to the plug. > > This is quite an large heavy item. > > Being a sailplane pilot I have not had the issue of going to my plane > and finding a dead battery. I don't need a jumpstart to fly, I need a > towplane and a good thermal day. > > People who fly powerplanes, how often does a plane need a jumpstart or > a serious battery recharge? > > I am seriously thinking of returning this item. > > Thanks, > > JOhn > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 10:01:45 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing jacks From: "Lew Gallagher" Hey David, et al, That's a sweet jack! I'm on it. Looks like: https://www.toolsmithonline.com/products.php?product=Powerbuilt%C2%AE-3-Ton-All%252dIn%252dOne-Bottle-Jack%7B47%7DJack-Stand has the jack/stand. I assume you haven't had any problems with the safety ratchet? A quick google search turned up several complaints of Powerbuilt's regular jack stands failing -- evidently cheaply cast China ratchet. About the wing tiedown not being flush with the skin: I've made a stud that screws into the tiedown with a shoulder on it so that the weight is on the threads, not the skin -- is that a bad idea? better to spread the weight on the skin? I'd still like some examples of when both wheels need to be jacked off the ground. Just a thought about using the engine hoist point to raise the nose wheel: with the engine mounted, the tail acts as a counterweight and the force on the hoist point is less than when lifting the engine by itself ... so what could the problem be? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Avionics in, engine started! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290541#290541 ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 10:04:02 PM PST US From: "Jack Phillips" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. I've just been through this stage, so I understand your difficulties. The tanks are just like the outboard leading edges, but worse, since they have 0.032" thick skin. I found it best to start attaching the ribs by clecoing the forward holes while the skin was not in the cradle. Then put the assembly int eh cradle and cleco the rest of the holes. The good news is, once you match-drill and dimple the holes, it goes together much easier. But you are at the "fun" part of the fuel tanks. Just wait until you get to cleco it together with dark grey "Pookie" all over everything, including your expensive tools, your clothes, your skin and your hair. Life just doesn't get any better than this. Jack Phillips # 40610 Wings (Fuel tanks) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of stuewe Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skin not fitting tank ribs. I'm working on my first fuel tank and I'm having trouble getting the skin to fit to the ribs. It's like the skin was bent at too small a radius at the leading edge. I have the ribs cleco'ed to the top side of the tank skin, but I cannot get even CLOSE to getting the holes on the other side to align. I had some difficulty with the same phase of the outboard leading edges, but nothing like this tank skin. So, the question is: Is there a trick I'm missing? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290524#290524 ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 10:04:15 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing jacks I have a 3 blade Aero Composit prop and in order to remove the lower cowl I have to pull the tail down so the front gear leg can drop down and provide clearance. I have a 4-wheel HF furniture dolly wilh 180 lbs of concrete mix on it and a block and tackle that does the job. My wing jacks (I'm glad I have two) are HF rams in a plywood stand. I drilled a hole for a short piece of threaded rod that replaces the wing tie-down so the plane can't slip off of the jack. There is no safety lock on the jack so I block up the axel as soon as I remove a wheel. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 10:04:56 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing jacks From: Kelly McMullen Why mickey mouse with expensive aircraft indeed! You normally will only need one jack. Here is a high quality jack that I use on my Mooney that should work on RV-10 by just screwing jack points in place of tie-down rings: http://www.aircraft-gse.com/lw-3.html $180. They have gone up a whopping $30 since I bought mine 10 years ago. On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 5:27 PM, DLM wrote: > > It always amazes me when people are willing to jack a $150000 aircraft with > a makeshift arrangement. Dropping an aircraft will be expensive in both > dollars and time. Aircraft jacks normally require a hydraulic mechanism for > lifting and a locking mechanism to hold the aircraft if a hydraulic cylinder > fails. I have attached several pictures of the jacks we built to jack high > wing aircraft and low wing aircraft like the RV10. You should be able to see > the hydraulic jacks that are available of the shelf and the additional steel > tubing, large nut and threaded steel rod. On the high wing jacks we use > steel bolts inserted into the tubing to lock in place after the lift. On the > low wing jacks the jacks them selves have a locking mechanism and we simply > welded the tube onto the jack and welded the nut and inserted the threaded > rod. One picture is the moveable tail stand/weight. BTW do not use the > threaded tie down bolt areas as the tapped block does not reach the skin (on > my QB wings) and the Vans supplied jack points will compress the skin of the > wing and eventually crack and break it. On top of the jacks we use wooden > block with baffling material siliconed on to protect the surface. We also > place the jack under the main spar. > ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 11:06:34 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jumper plug and recepticle. 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