Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:16 AM - Re: front spar bracket - HS (John Gonzalez)
2. 01:17 AM - The Great Waldo Pepper (John Gonzalez)
3. 01:23 AM - Re: Rudder puzzle (Chris Colohan)
4. 03:24 AM - Re: Re: Finish Kit Question (Bob Leffler)
5. 05:16 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? (orchidman)
6. 06:51 AM - Re: Finish Kit Question (Larry Rosen)
7. 07:22 AM - Re: Finish Kit Question (conradb)
8. 07:31 AM - Re: Finish Kit Question (tsts4)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: Re: Finish Kit Question (Linn Walters)
10. 10:51 AM - Re: Re: Finish Kit Question (Pascal)
11. 02:31 PM - Re: Re: Finish Kit Question (Tim Olson)
12. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Finish Kit Question (Pascal)
13. 06:15 PM - OP-37 ..... found (Linn Walters)
14. 09:23 PM - Re: Protective covers? (David Maib)
Message 1
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| Subject: | front spar bracket - HS |
The holes being lower should be no issue if the head of the bolt that goes
into those brackets is able to make revolutions. Even if not=2C the bolt ca
n insert and it is the nut coming up from the bottom which will need to be
making the revolutions as it will be closer to the bulkhead.
Just make sure the structures that are below the aluminum deck will have en
ough meat on the sides so that there are no minimum edge distance issues an
d the revolution issue with the bulkhead
I am a bit concerned about the fact that I did my rough cuts with plasma cu
tter=2C but finished them off with a huge bench wheel sander for metal. The
repeated heat cycles first with the plasma cutter then the wheel polisher
are perhaps a concern=2C but I let the metal cool slowly between cycles coo
ling them with water only after initial cooling=2C just so that I cold hold
them longer with a gloved hand.
> From: Tim@myrv10.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: front spar bracket - HS
> Date: Thu=2C 18 Mar 2010 20:36:18 -0500
>
>
> Make 'em perfect or buy those aftermarket ones.....when you see how
> they fit into the plane and hold things together=2C you'll be glad
> they're as perfect as they can be.
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Mar 18=2C 2010=2C at 6:45 PM=2C "JHearnsberger"
> <jakehearnsberger@gmail.com> wrote:
>
.com
>>>
>>
>> These brackets have been driving me crazy. I got the first bracket
>> perfect=2C the left bracket. I screwed up the second=2C the right
>> bracket. So=2C I tossed it. There was just enough angle left to try
>> cutting the right bracket again. My cut is ok.... but=2C the two
>> holes are about 1/32 or 2/32 lower than the two holes on the left
>> bracket.
>>
>> Do I need to keep re-doing these brackets over and over until I get
>> them perfect or are they ok?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290790#290790
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_177.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | The Great Waldo Pepper |
My eight year old daughter and I just finished the movie. I was about her a
ge when my parents took me to see the movie in a small movie house=2C while
on vacation=2C up in the town of Mammoth California=2C which is located in
the Sierra Nevada mountains.
I didn't let my daughter watch the one bad seen which my parent let me watc
h...didn't seem to stop me.
I still go to Mammoth=2C it is one of my favorite places and most of the ti
me I soar my glider over those mountains.
John Gonzalez=2C 43 years old
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder puzzle |
FWIW -- I called up Van's today and ordered a new part. When I explained
why I was re-ordering it they insisted on giving it to me at no charge (eve
n
though I offered to pay repeatedly, since I missed this problem during my
inventory). Nice!
The more I interact with Van's as a company the more I like them. :-)
Chris
On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 2:36 PM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrote
:
> I found a similar problem last week but looking into it harder I was
> convinced that the R1004A and B were wrongly punched. Looking up the bot
tom
> of the rudder, the assembled bottom rib is close to 3/16=94 too narrow at
the
> spar end, with the gap gradually opening up from the trailing edge. The
> skin holes also match poorly as do yours.
>
> I rang Van=92s, ordered a new part, and asked them to double check the
> pre-punched hole locations before sending.
>
>
> Don=92t even think about flattening and rebending!
>
>
> Gordon Anderson
>
> Kit 41015 Empennage
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris Colohan
> *Sent:* 13 March 2010 23:24
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Rudder puzzle
>
>
> I've reached page 7-6, step 4 --- and found my first puzzle.
>
>
> When I went to cleco on the right R-1001 skin, I found that the holes nea
r
> the rudder spar in piece R-1004B do not line up with the skin. The holes
in
> every other piece do line up with the skin. As you approach the spar, th
e
> holes in the R-1004B piece appear to be lower than the holes in the skin.
> Figuring maybe the right and left skin differed, I put on the R-1001 lef
t
> skin, and it lined up and fit perfectly. The two skins are punched
> identically.
>
>
> It looks like the design doesn't account for the thickness of part R-1004
A
> (and then some?) when sandwiching R1004-A and R-1004B together.
>
>
> A picture is worth a thousand words. So posted a bunch of photos here:
>
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/colohan/TailSection?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-Q2JfUg
c73bw#5448246711194853154
>
>
> Now, my question: what can I do about this? My choices seem to be:
>
>
> a) get some metal and fabricate a R-1004B with holes which match the skin
.
>
>
> b) straighten out the 90 degree angle and try to rebend my R-1004B slight
ly
> differently to get this to line up.
>
>
> c) turn some of the holes in either the R-1004B or skin into ovals so the
y
> reach the holes in the other piece.
>
>
> As far as I can tell, the R-1005 horn is not improperly warped or bent in
> any way (which would explain this). Is there an option I'm missing? I f
ear
> that the best option is fabricating a replacement piece, but I don't thin
k I
> have any metal of the appropriate dimensions (so I'd have to order some a
nd
> wait).
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Chris
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
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> *
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
Thanks for the handle reminder. I already have the flush handles from
iflyrv10.com.
The other items are in the FWF, not the Finish kit, but I'll keep them in
mind. I'm implementing a VP-200 so most of these aren't applicable to my
installation.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 11:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Finish Kit Question
Get the wiring kit instructions for $10, but not the kit itself. Consider
dropping the door handles, if you are going to upgrade to one of the after
market options. Drop the engine baffle material and get the silicone stuff.
If you are going to use the magneto key switch and two door locks
combination, you can special order the same thing from ACS with three locks
so you can lock both doors and baggage door.
Jim Berry
40482
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
partner14 wrote:
> Here ya go... Pascal just sent me this yesterday.... it's on Tim's site.
> Don McDonald
>
Thanks, that explains a bunch. May want to add it in May when I do my 1st year
inspection.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290874#290874
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
You still need the NACA scoop. Stein sells the swivel eyeball air vent
that mounts to the scoop.
Larry Rosen
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Im getting ready to place the order for my finish kit. The following
> is what Im looking to substitute in the kit.
>
> 1.00 UNW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS ( getting Matco wheel)
>
> 2.00 VENT SV-10 VENT FRESH AIR (dont need since Im going to use the
> vents from Steinair)
>
> 1.00 RUBBER DOOR SEALX25' VA-198 DOOR SEAL ( using a different door seal)
>
> 2.00 C-1016 DOOR STRUT GAS STRUT FOR RV-10 (upgrading to the heavy
> duty strut)
>
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE ( getting Matco axle)
>
> Is there anything else that Ive overlooked that I should substitute
> or source from another vendor?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
I too am just about to order the RV-10 Finishing kit from the Van's factory. Do
you know what the kit contains or where there is itemized list of the Finishing
Kit's contents. I would like to know what I will be getting.
--------
Conrad Booze
Sr. Engineer
P. O. Box 7028
Warner Robins, GA. 31095
(478)-335-4264
conradbooze@cox.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290907#290907
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
Conrad,
Tim Olson has it posted on his site. Here's the link:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/kits/index.html
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290914#290914
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
I have a copy ...... that I got from rick (I think)!!!
I'll post it when I fiond where I put it!
Linn
Rick wrote:
>
> OP-37 should be out there for free somewhere save ten bucks if someone
> has a copy...I posted it several times.
>
> Rick
>
> On Mar 18, 2010, at 11:02 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Get the wiring kit instructions for $10, but not the kit itself.
>> Consider dropping the door handles, if you are going to upgrade to
>> one of the after market options. Drop the engine baffle material and
>> get the silicone stuff. If you are going to use the magneto key
>> switch and two door locks combination, you can special order the same
>> thing from ACS with three locks so you can lock both doors and
>> baggage door.
>>
>> Jim Berry
>> 40482
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290821#290821
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
As a reminder- when in doubt- look on Tim's site- he has everything- The
deal is people scan the plans and send to Tim to add to the RV-10 plans
link- as an example- anyone with the new FF-6 plans (newer than 2/24/2005)
please scan them and send to Tim to post I don't have a way of doing it or I
would have, The current version, on his site, shows the old "original"
plans with one exhaust. I have the newer two muffler exhaust, as most do. I
really like to have all the plans on pdf for reference.
In the meantime here is OP-37
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/pdfs/Section_Wiring_Harness.pdf
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Finish Kit Question
>
> I have a copy ...... that I got from rick (I think)!!!
> I'll post it when I fiond where I put it!
> Linn
>
> Rick wrote:
>>
>> OP-37 should be out there for free somewhere save ten bucks if someone
>> has a copy...I posted it several times.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Mar 18, 2010, at 11:02 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Get the wiring kit instructions for $10, but not the kit itself.
>>> Consider dropping the door handles, if you are going to upgrade to one
>>> of the after market options. Drop the engine baffle material and get the
>>> silicone stuff. If you are going to use the magneto key switch and two
>>> door locks combination, you can special order the same thing from ACS
>>> with three locks so you can lock both doors and baggage door.
>>>
>>> Jim Berry
>>> 40482
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290821#290821
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
Man, you really got me upset.
I'm going to close down that part of the site now.
Pascal wrote:
>
> As a reminder- when in doubt- look on Tim's site- he has everything- The
> deal is people scan the plans and send to Tim to add to the RV-10 plans
> link- as an example- anyone with the new FF-6 plans (newer than
> 2/24/2005) please scan them and send to Tim to post I don't have a way
> of doing it or I would have, The current version, on his site, shows
> the old "original" plans with one exhaust. I have the newer two muffler
> exhaust, as most do. I really like to have all the plans on pdf for
> reference.
> In the meantime here is OP-37
> http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/pdfs/Section_Wiring_Harness.pdf
> Thanks!
> Pascal
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:37 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Finish Kit Question
>
>>
>> I have a copy ...... that I got from rick (I think)!!!
>> I'll post it when I fiond where I put it!
>> Linn
>>
>> Rick wrote:
>>>
>>> OP-37 should be out there for free somewhere save ten bucks if
>>> someone has a copy...I posted it several times.
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> On Mar 18, 2010, at 11:02 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Get the wiring kit instructions for $10, but not the kit itself.
>>>> Consider dropping the door handles, if you are going to upgrade to
>>>> one of the after market options. Drop the engine baffle material and
>>>> get the silicone stuff. If you are going to use the magneto key
>>>> switch and two door locks combination, you can special order the
>>>> same thing from ACS with three locks so you can lock both doors and
>>>> baggage door.
>>>>
>>>> Jim Berry
>>>> 40482
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290821#290821
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Question |
My apologies, that link to Tim's site is not valid anymore.
Please disregard.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Finish Kit Question
>
> As a reminder- when in doubt- look on Tim's site- he has everything- The
> deal is people scan the plans and send to Tim to add to the RV-10 plans
> link- as an example- anyone with the new FF-6 plans (newer than 2/24/2005)
> please scan them and send to Tim to post I don't have a way of doing it or
> I would have, The current version, on his site, shows the old "original"
> plans with one exhaust. I have the newer two muffler exhaust, as most do.
> I really like to have all the plans on pdf for reference.
> In the meantime here is OP-37
> http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/pdfs/Section_Wiring_Harness.pdf
> Thanks!
> Pascal
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:37 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Finish Kit Question
>
>>
>> I have a copy ...... that I got from rick (I think)!!!
>> I'll post it when I fiond where I put it!
>> Linn
>>
>> Rick wrote:
>>>
>>> OP-37 should be out there for free somewhere save ten bucks if someone
>>> has a copy...I posted it several times.
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> On Mar 18, 2010, at 11:02 PM, "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Get the wiring kit instructions for $10, but not the kit itself.
>>>> Consider dropping the door handles, if you are going to upgrade to one
>>>> of the after market options. Drop the engine baffle material and get
>>>> the silicone stuff. If you are going to use the magneto key switch and
>>>> two door locks combination, you can special order the same thing from
>>>> ACS with three locks so you can lock both doors and baggage door.
>>>>
>>>> Jim Berry
>>>> 40482
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290821#290821
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | OP-37 ..... found |
Here ya go!!!
Linn
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Protective covers? |
A suction cup won't work anyway, because the hole in the wing won't
let you get any suction! I felt like a real dummy when I figured out
why the little suction cups I bought to cover the upper and lower AFS
ports would not stick to the wing. Duh!
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Mar 18, 2010, at 4:31 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
The sensors have to be extremely sensitive to measure the change in
pressure associated with a change in AOA, so putting a suction cup
over the AOA port might have a negative effect on the calibration of
the sensor(s). Just a thought, I don=92t know the system or components.
Gordon Anderson
#41015, Switzerland
Empennage
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: 18 March 2010 02:39
Subject: RV10-List: Protective covers?
I was thinking of making one or two little protective covers for my
AOA pressure ports using a couple of suction cups with a =93Remove
before Flight=94 tag hanging off.
Overkill, or useful?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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