RV10-List Digest Archive

Sun 03/21/10


Total Messages Posted: 16



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:51 AM - Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (gary)
     2. 07:13 AM - Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (Strasnuts)
     3. 08:22 AM - Re: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (gary)
     4. 09:42 AM - Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (Strasnuts)
     5. 09:58 AM - Hole left open for gluing doors (Russell Shavitz)
     6. 10:05 AM - Re: Hole left open for gluing doors (Jim Berry)
     7. 10:22 AM - Re: Re: Hole left open for gluing doors (Rob Kochman)
     8. 10:57 AM - Re: New Latch Final Assembly (woxofswa)
     9. 11:23 AM - Re: Re: New Latch Final Assembly (Bob Leffler)
    10. 11:28 AM - Re: Finish Kit Question (Nick Nafsinger)
    11. 12:11 PM - Re: New Latch Final Assembly (woxofswa)
    12. 12:19 PM - Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (greghale)
    13. 12:23 PM - Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (Bob Turner)
    14. 01:18 PM - Holes left open (Russell Shavitz)
    15. 02:17 PM - Re: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 (gary)
    16. 09:53 PM - Re: Holes left open (Rob Kochman)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:51:19 AM PST US
    From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    I know there is a conflict between the instructions and the distances required, but I followed the recommended location directions and it works fine. Van's has a mount for the AHRS that goes right beside the battery. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 8:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 I don't get it. I read the G3x installation manual and noticed the bracket they use to mount the magnetometer goes on the aft deck in front of the horizontal. Later it suggest to keep it at least 10 feet from any motor or servo. The elevator trim servo is right under the aft deck so I don't get it. Would it be better in the wing opposite the one with the aileron servo? It is a GMU 44. I plan on mounting the AHRS over the battery up high but again the manual suggests to mount it no more than 6.5 feet from the cg. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291101#291101


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:13:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
    I may do the same with the AHRS. Does anyone know if the Van's mount works with the GSU 73 too? I'm sure it can be adapted. I'm still wondering about the magnetometer. AFT deck in front of horizontal or wingtip. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291147#291147


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:22:05 AM PST US
    From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    The aft deck is easiest IMHO and it works just fine, even with the trim right below it. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 10:13 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 I may do the same with the AHRS. Does anyone know if the Van's mount works with the GSU 73 too? I'm sure it can be adapted. I'm still wondering about the magnetometer. AFT deck in front of horizontal or wingtip. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291147#291147


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:42:07 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
    OK thanks Gary, I assume the G900 has the same components or close to the GMU44 and GSU73. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291162#291162


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:58:48 AM PST US
    From: Russell Shavitz <rashvac@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Hole left open for gluing doors
    Can anyone tell me what happens to the holes left open in the fuse sides to cleco the door shells together after the shells are glued? Do these get flush rivets and do they need to be dimpled before the skins are riveted? Russell Shavitz Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 office: 847-678-1000 cell: 847-417-6622 www.shavitz.com


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:05:56 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Hole left open for gluing doors
    From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
    They do get flush rivets, so dimple them while you have easy access. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291166#291166


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:22:58 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Hole left open for gluing doors
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    In other words, yes they should have already been dimpled on your QB fuselage. -Rob On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 10:05 AM, Jim Berry <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote: > > They do get flush rivets, so dimple them while you have easy access. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291166#291166 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:57:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: New Latch Final Assembly
    From: "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com>
    Great video Scott, thanks. As someone just about to start on the doors, I am quite interested. Those who follow are greatly blessed by you trailblazers. Just to be devil's advocate for a brief moment, I have a question however. It appears from the video that the cam is held to the axle by set screws. I'm not an engineer by any means, but it seems to my neophyte understanding that the "strength" of the assembly is limited by the gripping power of the set screws. It would be interesting to see calcs on the potential outward pressure on the door from the known low pressure "pull" outside the door in cruise versus the net holding power of those set screws. I assume the set screws are to allow for final adjustment. I am wondering if once the position is set, drilling through the cam/axle assembly and installing a high strength bolt or even a retaining clip might greatly increase both the strength and longevity of the strength of the assembly. One thing I have found in everything from Boeings to Cessnas is that set screws often loosen up over time and vibration. In the spirit of fail safe design, what ever system I end up using (I am leaning toward this one) I would want to be able to sustain closure on its own (without the side pins). As ugly as the VAn's solutions is, I do believe that it has the requisite strength. Of course, my only experience with the whole thing is pictures so I could easily be out to lunch which is why I would love comments by those with actual experience. Best, Myron -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291171#291171


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:23:11 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Re: New Latch Final Assembly
    Myron, Sean just answered a different question on VAF (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=416283&postcount=9) , but I believe his answer addresses your concern too. "The cabin block is made out of Delrin so it is pretty easy to sand on a disc sander. Much easier than UHMW. When you get the kit you will see the cam is fully adjustable on the shaft. It has an 8-32 set screw to temporarily position the cam in out out and any clocking position. After you are satisfied with the operation you can mark the shaft and cut it and polish it. You then drill through a pilot hole that is on one side of the cam and push a roll pin in that is supplied with the kit. That's how you can change the position of the block on the cabin lip for different builds." Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 1:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: New Latch Final Assembly Great video Scott, thanks. As someone just about to start on the doors, I am quite interested. Those who follow are greatly blessed by you trailblazers. Just to be devil's advocate for a brief moment, I have a question however. It appears from the video that the cam is held to the axle by set screws. I'm not an engineer by any means, but it seems to my neophyte understanding that the "strength" of the assembly is limited by the gripping power of the set screws. It would be interesting to see calcs on the potential outward pressure on the door from the known low pressure "pull" outside the door in cruise versus the net holding power of those set screws. I assume the set screws are to allow for final adjustment. I am wondering if once the position is set, drilling through the cam/axle assembly and installing a high strength bolt or even a retaining clip might greatly increase both the strength and longevity of the strength of the assembly. One thing I have found in everything from Boeings to Cessnas is that set screws often loosen up over time and vibration. In the spirit of fail safe design, what ever system I end up using (I am leaning toward this one) I would want to be able to sustain closure on its own (without the side pins). As ugly as the VAn's solutions is, I do believe that it has the requisite strength. Of course, my only experience with the whole thing is pictures so I could easily be out to lunch which is why I would love comments by those with actual experience. Best, Myron -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291171#291171


    Message 10


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    Time: 11:28:18 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Finish Kit Question
    From: "Nick Nafsinger" <nicknaf@gmail.com>
    I'm confused. Tim's plans have always been linked directly off his site, no login or such required. Did I miss why he is so upset? Oh well, I guess he'll go in the same group with Checkoway as a good resource now gone. Nick Nafsinger 40569, Flying. 50+ Hrs -------- RV-10 40569 Finishing (forever) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291174#291174


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:11:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: New Latch Final Assembly
    From: "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com>
    Ahhhh, Bach! Highly significant. Great minds think alike! I'm sold. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291177#291177


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:19:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    From: "greghale" <ghale5224@aol.com>
    I mounted my Chelton Magnetometer in the wing tip. When I got ready to install the backup Dynon, I thought of installing it on the aft deck in front of the horizontal. When I placed a compass to check if this was OK, the compass was 180 degrees off. I guess this was due to all the bolts and screws used in that area. Also that locations could get wet from rain or washing the aircraft. I eventually installed the Dynon's in the other wing tip. The Gadahrs is mounted on the centerline of the aircraft. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291178#291178


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:23:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    my trim motor moves a compass when within a foot or so. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291179#291179


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:18:56 PM PST US
    From: Russell Shavitz <rashvac@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Holes left open
    My QB did not have these holes dimpled or countersunk does this cause a problem when finishing? Can I machine countersink the skins with the longerons riveted? Russell Shavitz Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 office: 847-678-1000 cell: 847-417-6622 www.shavitz.com


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:17:00 PM PST US
    From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10
    I do have the GMU44 but the AHRS is a GRS77. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: AHRS and Magnetometer location on the 10 OK thanks Gary, I assume the G900 has the same components or close to the GMU44 and GSU73. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291162#291162


    Message 16


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    Time: 09:53:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Holes left open
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    You definitely want to call Van's (if for nothing else, to notify them of the error). I don't see how you have much of a choice but to countersink them now. -Rob On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 1:15 PM, Russell Shavitz <rashvac@earthlink.net>wrote: > > My QB did not have these holes dimpled or countersunk does this cause a > problem when finishing? > Can I machine countersink the skins with the longerons riveted? > > Russell Shavitz > Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning > 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077 > office: 847-678-1000 > cell: 847-417-6622 > www.shavitz.com > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K




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