Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:14 AM - Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails (Strasnuts)
2. 07:40 AM - Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails (DLM)
3. 07:51 AM - Re: Vixen File (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
4. 08:48 AM - First Flight for kit 40214 (Mr Luther Strickland)
5. 08:48 AM - g;ideslope capture ()
6. 09:02 AM - Re: Vixen File (John Gonzalez)
7. 09:02 AM - Re: g;ideslope capture (John Erickson)
8. 09:55 AM - Re: First Flight for kit 40214 (Robin Marks)
9. 11:12 AM - Re: g;ideslope capture (Bob Turner)
10. 12:00 PM - Re: First Flight for kit 40214 (Marcus Cooper)
11. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: g;ideslope capture (Jesse Saint)
12. 01:45 PM - glide slope capture ()
13. 01:45 PM - Aftermarket Rudder Stops? (Dave Saylor)
14. 02:28 PM - Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? (Bob Leffler)
15. 02:43 PM - Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails (Scott Schmidt)
16. 08:50 PM - Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? (Dave Saylor)
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Message 8
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Subject: | First Flight for kit 40214 |
Jearl,
That is terrific news. I sure wish I was in town to witness the
big event. I am positive you will have little to work out between now and
the end of your Phase 1. It is fantastic to add another flying -10 to the
fleet and even better to have one at our airport built & piloted by such a
nice and talented person with a wonderful family. I look forward to some
loose formation flying and air to air photo sessions and heck maybe even
some cross country trips.
Clear skies,
Robin, Nova & Hannah
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Mr Luther Strickland
*Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 8:32 AM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: First Flight for kit 40214
All...
After 6 years of balancing work and plane building, kit 40214 (N4959S) left
the ground for the first time yesterday. It climbed like a champ and we were
at 800 feet by the time we hit the end of the runway. The flight was
uneventful with engine temperatures staying where they should and the plane
flying true and level.
Many thanks to my good friend Robin Marks for the encouragement to keep at
it even when I was trapped at work 7 days a week. Robin also tied me up
with an A&P that could help solve the wiring problems that Accuracy Avionics
created in the panel that they built for the plane. My OP Technologies EFIS
is now talking properly to the engine monitor and the air data computer.
Most of the function on the OP seem to be operating properly, but there are
a couple of questions that I will have for the OP group.
I have an appointment with GLO Customs for paint in late June and and will
post photos once it is out of the paint shop.
It sure feels good to finally have it in the air!!!
...Jearl Strickland
ps..Robin, I opened the bottle of 1822 Madeira for Ken, my son and I to
celebrate. We need to get together later this week and work on reducing the
volume further!
* *
* *
* *
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: g;ideslope capture |
You didn't use any splitter on the SL-30 input, right? It has an internal one.
I'd try to get a short length of coax, and a female to female adaptor, to temporarily
splice the known good antenna to the SL-30. If the problem persists, then
you know it's internal to the SL-30. Maybe a bad internal splitter, or something
else.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295762#295762
Message 10
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Subject: | First Flight for kit 40214 |
Well done! Congrats and have fun.
Marcus
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mr Luther
Strickland
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight for kit 40214
All...
After 6 years of balancing work and plane building, kit 40214 (N4959S) left
the ground for the first time yesterday. It climbed like a champ and we were
at 800 feet by the time we hit the end of the runway. The flight was
uneventful with engine temperatures staying where they should and the plane
flying true and level.
Many thanks to my good friend Robin Marks for the encouragement to keep at
it even when I was trapped at work 7 days a week. Robin also tied me up
with an A&P that could help solve the wiring problems that Accuracy Avionics
created in the panel that they built for the plane. My OP Technologies EFIS
is now talking properly to the engine monitor and the air data computer.
Most of the function on the OP seem to be operating properly, but there are
a couple of questions that I will have for the OP group.
I have an appointment with GLO Customs for paint in late June and and will
post photos once it is out of the paint shop.
It sure feels good to finally have it in the air!!!
...Jearl Strickland
ps..Robin, I opened the bottle of 1822 Madeira for Ken, my son and I to
celebrate. We need to get together later this week and work on reducing the
volume further!
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: g;ideslope capture |
That's exactly what I would recommend. Isolate the problem and then narrow it
down until you find the cause. Ideally, you would actually switch the antennas,
like you said you didn't want to do because of the coax.
Another option would be to find someone who has another SL-30 that you could slide
into your tray and see if the problem is the radio or the wiring. If you
are getting the Loc signal at the same distance on both radios, but the glideslope
is not the same, then my thoughts would be something in the radio, which
would be solved by swapping radios with someone.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 26, 2010, at 2:11 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> You didn't use any splitter on the SL-30 input, right? It has an internal one.
> I'd try to get a short length of coax, and a female to female adaptor, to temporarily
splice the known good antenna to the SL-30. If the problem persists,
then you know it's internal to the SL-30. Maybe a bad internal splitter, or something
else.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295762#295762
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | glide slope capture |
Thanks all for the advice--good as always. I'll do the coax switch to isolate
the gremlin (SL30 or ant). Crimping doesn't seem to be the problem since the
localizer comes in "loud and clear". Jay
Message 13
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Subject: | Aftermarket Rudder Stops? |
Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 14
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Subject: | Aftermarket Rudder Stops? |
Yep...
Oh, you probably want to know where too. :^)
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56277
I bought one, but haven't installed it yet.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 4:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails |
I switched my door pins and blocks to the slanted design using the delrin blocks
and they work great. The slanted pin uses a threaded rod that can be removed
so you can glue the stock magnets inside of them giving you a clean finish.
As for clocking them, it was pretty simple. I would just make a mark and then
use the 6" 3M wheel to file down the rod until it was perfect and loctite it.
I am using the stock Van's seal which requires more compression than some of the
other aftermarket systems. I wanted as much early engagement of the pin as
I could possibly get.
I'll get some pictures and more video tonight so you can see this system in action.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: DLM <dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Mon, April 26, 2010 8:32:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails
One other comment. The pins should be about 1/2 inch longer and cut to size
by the builder. Depending on where the latch mechanism is located within the
recess, Vans standard pins can be too short and not place the full
circumference within the metal door frame when engaged.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails
I thought I would share some questions and answers on door pins and guides
taken off emails with permission from Rudi. There are pros and cons for the
different pins and guides offered. Builders that have dealt with the vans
doors understand easier than new builders who haven't seen the mechanics
behind Vans' doors.
Rudi,
I will be shipping your parts on Wednesday. One question. I now have two
types of pins and guides to pick from actually three. I have bullet type SS
pins that are hollow with a solid tip and I have bullet type pins that have
a small magnet on the end. The hollow ones can have the Van's magnet
dropped inside and glued. The bullet type pins go with aluminum or Delrin
guides. The threaded portion on all my pins are a 5/16-24 set screw that
you threadlock in after installing the magnet. If you want the bullet type
that has the magnet on the end, it is already glued on. The other pins I
have are on a slant and are hollow but have a solid tip, again making it
possible to drop a magnet inside.
RUDI: What type works better with the standard Vans Sensors and standard
Magnets? Bullet type with magnet on front or slanted with magnet on inside?
Sean: Both work good. The slanted pins require you use the Van's magnets
that come in your kit. In a perfect world I would try to talk everyone into
buying the 180 kit with slanted pins and Delrin guides. Van's had a good
idea for the pushrods, they just didn't quite capture the whole plan.
Slanted pins work really well because they pull the full 7/16 of the
material. When you try a bullet type it will only pull half of the bullet
or 7/32. Van's pushrods have the problem of being hollow tipped which
catches their delrin guides or their original UHMW guides. I have seen
builders' doors actually cut into their guides. One door that fell off was
because the pilot thought the door was closed because the hollow tip was
pressed into the plastic guide and later (in flight) failed and opened the
door and there it went. My latch pulls the center of the door and really
helps the pins into the guides. If your seal is super tight, your door will
flex at the fwd and aft where t!
he pins exit the door and enter the guides. The slanted pins are easier to
line up because of the full 7/16 advantage.
They only work well with the Delrin guide blocks I make. Since you have
the 180 kit I recommend the slanted pins and Delrin guides, up to you. With
the slanted pins you have to "clock" the position to pull the door down and
in like the vans original pushrod ends. This is done by filing the end of
the pushrod until the pins line up to your preference. I know it is kind of
weird to have so many options but I am getting a feel to see want everyone
wants/likes.
RUDI: Why does the slanted pins only work with the Delrin guide block?
Sean: The shape of the slant makes it rub and catch on the aluminum as it
pulls into the guides. I believe it is because the oval on the slant acts as
a small rod and enlarges as it pulls into the guide. Metal on metal. That's
why Van's pushrods won't work on aluminum guides. Aluminum gulls on
aluminum.
RUDI: Why do you recommend the slanted pins with the 180 kit?
Sean: Partially answered above, but also because the pins extend so far and
engage through the frame of the aircraft. With 90 degree kits and Van's
original doors it is hard for some builders to get the pin extended past the
Delrin. I like to see the pins through the cabin frame and aluminum
structure instead of just the Delrin guide. That is why a lot of builders
prefer the bullet type pins and aluminum guides on the 90 degree kits or
original equipment.
Sean: Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. If you
don't mind I may want to post this Q and A on Matronics or VAF. I like
people to know pros and cons to each pin and guide.
Thanks
Sean Strasburg
www.planearound.com
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295738#295738
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? |
Thanks, Bob. Just what I was looking for.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> Yep=85=85=85
>
>
> Oh, you probably want to know where too. :^)
>
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56277
>
>
> I bought one, but haven=92t installed it yet.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 4:17 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
>
>
> Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative?
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> *
>
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