RV10-List Digest Archive

Mon 04/26/10


Total Messages Posted: 16



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:14 AM - Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails (Strasnuts)
     2. 07:40 AM - Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails (DLM)
     3. 07:51 AM - Re: Vixen File (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
     4. 08:48 AM - First Flight for kit 40214 (Mr Luther Strickland)
     5. 08:48 AM - g;ideslope capture ()
     6. 09:02 AM - Re: Vixen File (John Gonzalez)
     7. 09:02 AM - Re: g;ideslope capture (John Erickson)
     8. 09:55 AM - Re: First Flight for kit 40214 (Robin Marks)
     9. 11:12 AM - Re: g;ideslope capture (Bob Turner)
    10. 12:00 PM - Re: First Flight for kit 40214 (Marcus Cooper)
    11. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: g;ideslope capture (Jesse Saint)
    12. 01:45 PM - glide slope capture ()
    13. 01:45 PM - Aftermarket Rudder Stops? (Dave Saylor)
    14. 02:28 PM - Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? (Bob Leffler)
    15. 02:43 PM - Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails (Scott Schmidt)
    16. 08:50 PM - Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? (Dave Saylor)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Message 2


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    Message 3


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    Message 4


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    Message 5


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    Message 6


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    Message 7


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    Message 8


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    Time: 09:55:41 AM PST US
    From: Robin Marks <robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
    Subject: First Flight for kit 40214
    Jearl, That is terrific news. I sure wish I was in town to witness the big event. I am positive you will have little to work out between now and the end of your Phase 1. It is fantastic to add another flying -10 to the fleet and even better to have one at our airport built & piloted by such a nice and talented person with a wonderful family. I look forward to some loose formation flying and air to air photo sessions and heck maybe even some cross country trips. Clear skies, Robin, Nova & Hannah *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Mr Luther Strickland *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 8:32 AM *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com *Subject:* RV10-List: First Flight for kit 40214 All... After 6 years of balancing work and plane building, kit 40214 (N4959S) left the ground for the first time yesterday. It climbed like a champ and we were at 800 feet by the time we hit the end of the runway. The flight was uneventful with engine temperatures staying where they should and the plane flying true and level. Many thanks to my good friend Robin Marks for the encouragement to keep at it even when I was trapped at work 7 days a week. Robin also tied me up with an A&P that could help solve the wiring problems that Accuracy Avionics created in the panel that they built for the plane. My OP Technologies EFIS is now talking properly to the engine monitor and the air data computer. Most of the function on the OP seem to be operating properly, but there are a couple of questions that I will have for the OP group. I have an appointment with GLO Customs for paint in late June and and will post photos once it is out of the paint shop. It sure feels good to finally have it in the air!!! ...Jearl Strickland ps..Robin, I opened the bottle of 1822 Madeira for Ken, my son and I to celebrate. We need to get together later this week and work on reducing the volume further! * * * * * *


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:12:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: g;ideslope capture
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    You didn't use any splitter on the SL-30 input, right? It has an internal one. I'd try to get a short length of coax, and a female to female adaptor, to temporarily splice the known good antenna to the SL-30. If the problem persists, then you know it's internal to the SL-30. Maybe a bad internal splitter, or something else. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295762#295762


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:00:36 PM PST US
    From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@verizon.net>
    Subject: First Flight for kit 40214
    Well done! Congrats and have fun. Marcus Do not archive From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mr Luther Strickland Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: First Flight for kit 40214 All... After 6 years of balancing work and plane building, kit 40214 (N4959S) left the ground for the first time yesterday. It climbed like a champ and we were at 800 feet by the time we hit the end of the runway. The flight was uneventful with engine temperatures staying where they should and the plane flying true and level. Many thanks to my good friend Robin Marks for the encouragement to keep at it even when I was trapped at work 7 days a week. Robin also tied me up with an A&P that could help solve the wiring problems that Accuracy Avionics created in the panel that they built for the plane. My OP Technologies EFIS is now talking properly to the engine monitor and the air data computer. Most of the function on the OP seem to be operating properly, but there are a couple of questions that I will have for the OP group. I have an appointment with GLO Customs for paint in late June and and will post photos once it is out of the paint shop. It sure feels good to finally have it in the air!!! ...Jearl Strickland ps..Robin, I opened the bottle of 1822 Madeira for Ken, my son and I to celebrate. We need to get together later this week and work on reducing the volume further!


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:00:52 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: g;ideslope capture
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    That's exactly what I would recommend. Isolate the problem and then narrow it down until you find the cause. Ideally, you would actually switch the antennas, like you said you didn't want to do because of the coax. Another option would be to find someone who has another SL-30 that you could slide into your tray and see if the problem is the radio or the wiring. If you are getting the Loc signal at the same distance on both radios, but the glideslope is not the same, then my thoughts would be something in the radio, which would be solved by swapping radios with someone. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Apr 26, 2010, at 2:11 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > You didn't use any splitter on the SL-30 input, right? It has an internal one. > I'd try to get a short length of coax, and a female to female adaptor, to temporarily splice the known good antenna to the SL-30. If the problem persists, then you know it's internal to the SL-30. Maybe a bad internal splitter, or something else. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295762#295762 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:45:40 PM PST US
    From: <jfrjr@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: glide slope capture
    Thanks all for the advice--good as always. I'll do the coax switch to isolate the gremlin (SL30 or ant). Crimping doesn't seem to be the problem since the localizer comes in "loud and clear". Jay


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:45:40 PM PST US
    From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
    Subject: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
    Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:28:03 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
    Yep... Oh, you probably want to know where too. :^) http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56277 I bought one, but haven't installed it yet. Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 4:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:43:23 PM PST US
    From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails
    I switched my door pins and blocks to the slanted design using the delrin blocks and they work great. The slanted pin uses a threaded rod that can be removed so you can glue the stock magnets inside of them giving you a clean finish. As for clocking them, it was pretty simple. I would just make a mark and then use the 6" 3M wheel to file down the rod until it was perfect and loctite it. I am using the stock Van's seal which requires more compression than some of the other aftermarket systems. I wanted as much early engagement of the pin as I could possibly get. I'll get some pictures and more video tonight so you can see this system in action. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt@yahoo.com ________________________________ From: DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> Sent: Mon, April 26, 2010 8:32:42 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails One other comment. The pins should be about 1/2 inch longer and cut to size by the builder. Depending on where the latch mechanism is located within the recess, Vans standard pins can be too short and not place the full circumference within the metal door frame when engaged. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:13 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails I thought I would share some questions and answers on door pins and guides taken off emails with permission from Rudi. There are pros and cons for the different pins and guides offered. Builders that have dealt with the vans doors understand easier than new builders who haven't seen the mechanics behind Vans' doors. Rudi, I will be shipping your parts on Wednesday. One question. I now have two types of pins and guides to pick from actually three. I have bullet type SS pins that are hollow with a solid tip and I have bullet type pins that have a small magnet on the end. The hollow ones can have the Van's magnet dropped inside and glued. The bullet type pins go with aluminum or Delrin guides. The threaded portion on all my pins are a 5/16-24 set screw that you threadlock in after installing the magnet. If you want the bullet type that has the magnet on the end, it is already glued on. The other pins I have are on a slant and are hollow but have a solid tip, again making it possible to drop a magnet inside. RUDI: What type works better with the standard Vans Sensors and standard Magnets? Bullet type with magnet on front or slanted with magnet on inside? Sean: Both work good. The slanted pins require you use the Van's magnets that come in your kit. In a perfect world I would try to talk everyone into buying the 180 kit with slanted pins and Delrin guides. Van's had a good idea for the pushrods, they just didn't quite capture the whole plan. Slanted pins work really well because they pull the full 7/16 of the material. When you try a bullet type it will only pull half of the bullet or 7/32. Van's pushrods have the problem of being hollow tipped which catches their delrin guides or their original UHMW guides. I have seen builders' doors actually cut into their guides. One door that fell off was because the pilot thought the door was closed because the hollow tip was pressed into the plastic guide and later (in flight) failed and opened the door and there it went. My latch pulls the center of the door and really helps the pins into the guides. If your seal is super tight, your door will flex at the fwd and aft where t! he pins exit the door and enter the guides. The slanted pins are easier to line up because of the full 7/16 advantage. They only work well with the Delrin guide blocks I make. Since you have the 180 kit I recommend the slanted pins and Delrin guides, up to you. With the slanted pins you have to "clock" the position to pull the door down and in like the vans original pushrod ends. This is done by filing the end of the pushrod until the pins line up to your preference. I know it is kind of weird to have so many options but I am getting a feel to see want everyone wants/likes. RUDI: Why does the slanted pins only work with the Delrin guide block? Sean: The shape of the slant makes it rub and catch on the aluminum as it pulls into the guides. I believe it is because the oval on the slant acts as a small rod and enlarges as it pulls into the guide. Metal on metal. That's why Van's pushrods won't work on aluminum guides. Aluminum gulls on aluminum. RUDI: Why do you recommend the slanted pins with the 180 kit? Sean: Partially answered above, but also because the pins extend so far and engage through the frame of the aircraft. With 90 degree kits and Van's original doors it is hard for some builders to get the pin extended past the Delrin. I like to see the pins through the cabin frame and aluminum structure instead of just the Delrin guide. That is why a lot of builders prefer the bullet type pins and aluminum guides on the 90 degree kits or original equipment. Sean: Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. If you don't mind I may want to post this Q and A on Matronics or VAF. I like people to know pros and cons to each pin and guide. Thanks Sean Strasburg www.planearound.com -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295738#295738


    Message 16


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    Time: 08:50:18 PM PST US
    From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
    Thanks, Bob. Just what I was looking for. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote: > Yep=85=85=85 > > > Oh, you probably want to know where too. :^) > > > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56277 > > > I bought one, but haven=92t installed it yet. > > > Bob > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor > *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 4:17 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? > > > Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative? > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > >




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