Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:19 AM - Re: Engine control cables touch mount (jayb)
2. 08:28 AM - Re: Engine control cables touch mount (jayb)
3. 08:33 AM - Re: Engine control cables touch mount (orchidman)
4. 09:06 AM - Re: Re: Engine control cables touch mount (Michael Kraus)
5. 09:10 AM - Re: Re: Engine control cables touch mount (Michael Kraus)
6. 09:11 AM - Re: Re: Engine control cables touch mount (Michael Kraus)
7. 09:45 AM - Re: Re: Engine control cables touch mount (Dave Saylor)
8. 02:31 PM - Andair Valves Redux (Kelly McMullen)
9. 02:43 PM - Re: Andair Valves Redux (Dave Saylor)
10. 02:53 PM - Re: Andair Valves Redux (Tim Olson)
11. 07:05 PM - Re: Andair Valves Redux (Danny Riggs)
12. 08:17 PM - Re: Re: Engine control cables touch mount (John Cox)
13. 09:05 PM - Re: Re: Engine control cables touch mount (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
Seems like a simple fix, but maybe not good idea as the cables need to be able
to flex and move freely along with the engine. There is already an adel clamp
in the standard location recommended by Vans. Adding a second clamp might work
if it were on the large side. However, the cable might then wear against the
clamp. Maybe I'm thinking too hard.
Jay
> Can't you put an adel clamp around it and secure it to another adel
> clamp around the engine mount to keep it from rubbing?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297604#297604
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
Anyone know how much new cables cost?
This would be an opportunity for Vans to improve their customer experience by either
providing specified cables lengths or no cable option w/ their throttle
quadrant. Of course, I'll bet no one from Vans monitors this list.
I'm getting to the point on this project that I no longer trust ANY plan section
that says cut, drill or permanently attach w/o consulting the -10 list for gotchas
first. Caveat emptor!
Jay
[quote="partner14"]Especially if you have cold air induction,,,,, just buy different
length cables... several had to modify the motor mounts.
Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297605#297605
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
When I ordered my kit that had the cables, I had them switch out the stock cables
that came with the quadrant for ones that were at least 1" longer. Don't remember
the exact lengths that I ordered but think I would add another half inch
to the throttle if I had to do it again.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297607#297607
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
You really wouldn't like building an RV-3 or RV-4 then!!! :-)
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On May 13, 2010, at 11:27 AM, "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone know how much new cables cost?
>
> This would be an opportunity for Vans to improve their customer
> experience by either providing specified cables lengths or no cable
> option w/ their throttle quadrant. Of course, I'll bet no one from
> Vans monitors this list.
>
> I'm getting to the point on this project that I no longer trust ANY
> plan section that says cut, drill or permanently attach w/o
> consulting the -10 list for gotchas first. Caveat emptor!
>
> Jay
>
>
> [quote="partner14"]Especially if you have cold air induction,,,,,
> just buy different length cables... several had to modify the motor
> mounts.
> Don
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297605#297605
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
I ordered the standard quadrant kit with cables. The prop cable was
perfect, but the throttle and mixture were a bit long! I got them to
work, bit an inch or two shorter would have been better for my
install.....
Sent from my iPhone
On May 13, 2010, at 11:32 AM, "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com> wrote:
>
> When I ordered my kit that had the cables, I had them switch out the
> stock cables that came with the quadrant for ones that were at least
> 1" longer. Don't remember the exact lengths that I ordered but
> think I would add another half inch to the throttle if I had to do
> it again.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297607#297607
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
You are overthinking it. The cable has a thick plastic shield on it.
Make the adel clamp a tad big and the plastic can then slide on the
rubber and it will last for many many years.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 13, 2010, at 11:18 AM, "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Seems like a simple fix, but maybe not good idea as the cables need
> to be able to flex and move freely along with the engine. There is
> already an adel clamp in the standard location recommended by Vans.
> Adding a second clamp might work if it were on the large side.
> However, the cable might then wear against the clamp. Maybe I'm
> thinking too hard.
>
> Jay
>
>> Can't you put an adel clamp around it and secure it to another adel
>> clamp around the engine mount to keep it from rubbing?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297604#297604
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
I replaced the stock cables with 47" for the prop, 51" for mixture and 72"
for the prop. I got the cables from a local cablecraft distributor. Also,
ask for the highest temp rating you can get. The green cables from Vans
aren't the best. A set of replacement cables should be $200 or less.
Do everything to you can to route them away from heat sources, including the
heater dumps. I covered mine with fire sleeve in that area. The inner
liner softens when it gets too hot, and if that happens in a radius then the
wire digs into the soft liner, eventually making a groove on the inside.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 8:27 AM, jayb <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone know how much new cables cost?
>
> This would be an opportunity for Vans to improve their customer experience
> by either providing specified cables lengths or no cable option w/ their
> throttle quadrant. Of course, I'll bet no one from Vans monitors this list.
>
> I'm getting to the point on this project that I no longer trust ANY plan
> section that says cut, drill or permanently attach w/o consulting the -10
> list for gotchas first. Caveat emptor!
>
> Jay
>
>
> [quote="partner14"]Especially if you have cold air induction,,,,, just buy
> different length cables... several had to modify the motor mounts.
> Don
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297605#297605
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Andair Valves Redux |
I know there has been a fair amount of discussion in the past as to
location to mount the Andair, whether or not to use an extension.
Being at that point in my build, it appears to me that mounting the
valve flush with the top of the panel avoids the extension issue,
requires a few extra bends in fuel lines to make room for heater duct,
and puts heat right under the valve. On the other hand, it also seems
to put a large upward loop in the fuel circuit. It appears to me, not
having gone beyond this point and not knowing other pitfalls, that
using the full 12" extension would minimize the uphill direction of
fuel flow, allow heater duct to go above the valve and fuel lines,
while shortening the fuel lines between the entry to the tunnel and
the fuel filter. I have the newer "B" variety valve, so no
customization needed on the extension. What have others experienced in
delay time ordering direct from Andair? Wonder why Van's doesn't offer
the extension. I note that Van's valve mount is something like .060
aluminum. I have some .040 that would be handy to use, probably with
alu. angle, which seems like it ought to be plenty strong, or just
move Van's mount lower in the tunnel and make a plate to go on top of
it to accommodate the Andair configuration.
Kelly
#40866
Fuselage
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Andair Valves Redux |
We ordered a few things from Andair about 6 months ago including an
extension kit. I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly they arrived. I
don't think it was much more than a week.
I ended up just emailing my order because the web site order choked when I
tried to check out. I got a response right away.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I know there has been a fair amount of discussion in the past as to
> location to mount the Andair, whether or not to use an extension.
> Being at that point in my build, it appears to me that mounting the
> valve flush with the top of the panel avoids the extension issue,
> requires a few extra bends in fuel lines to make room for heater duct,
> and puts heat right under the valve. On the other hand, it also seems
> to put a large upward loop in the fuel circuit. It appears to me, not
> having gone beyond this point and not knowing other pitfalls, that
> using the full 12" extension would minimize the uphill direction of
> fuel flow, allow heater duct to go above the valve and fuel lines,
> while shortening the fuel lines between the entry to the tunnel and
> the fuel filter. I have the newer "B" variety valve, so no
> customization needed on the extension. What have others experienced in
> delay time ordering direct from Andair? Wonder why Van's doesn't offer
> the extension. I note that Van's valve mount is something like .060
> aluminum. I have some .040 that would be handy to use, probably with
> alu. angle, which seems like it ought to be plenty strong, or just
> move Van's mount lower in the tunnel and make a plate to go on top of
> it to accommodate the Andair configuration.
>
> Kelly
> #40866
> Fuselage
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Andair Valves Redux |
You see the light!
Good redux!
Tim
On May 13, 2010, at 4:26 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I know there has been a fair amount of discussion in the past as to
> location to mount the Andair, whether or not to use an extension.
> Being at that point in my build, it appears to me that mounting the
> valve flush with the top of the panel avoids the extension issue,
> requires a few extra bends in fuel lines to make room for heater duct,
> and puts heat right under the valve. On the other hand, it also seems
> to put a large upward loop in the fuel circuit. It appears to me, not
> having gone beyond this point and not knowing other pitfalls, that
> using the full 12" extension would minimize the uphill direction of
> fuel flow, allow heater duct to go above the valve and fuel lines,
> while shortening the fuel lines between the entry to the tunnel and
> the fuel filter. I have the newer "B" variety valve, so no
> customization needed on the extension. What have others experienced in
> delay time ordering direct from Andair? Wonder why Van's doesn't offer
> the extension. I note that Van's valve mount is something like .060
> aluminum. I have some .040 that would be handy to use, probably with
> alu. angle, which seems like it ought to be plenty strong, or just
> move Van's mount lower in the tunnel and make a plate to go on top of
> it to accommodate the Andair configuration.
>
> Kelly
> #40866
> Fuselage
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Andair Valves Redux |
I've ordered from them several times lately on their web site and always go
t the stuff in less than a week. It used to be longer and the web ordering
was terrible. My experience now has been seamless.
Date: Thu=2C 13 May 2010 14:26:53 -0700
> Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves Redux
> From: apilot2@gmail.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> I know there has been a fair amount of discussion in the past as to
> location to mount the Andair=2C whether or not to use an extension.
> Being at that point in my build=2C it appears to me that mounting the
> valve flush with the top of the panel avoids the extension issue=2C
> requires a few extra bends in fuel lines to make room for heater duct=2C
> and puts heat right under the valve. On the other hand=2C it also seems
> to put a large upward loop in the fuel circuit. It appears to me=2C not
> having gone beyond this point and not knowing other pitfalls=2C that
> using the full 12" extension would minimize the uphill direction of
> fuel flow=2C allow heater duct to go above the valve and fuel lines=2C
> while shortening the fuel lines between the entry to the tunnel and
> the fuel filter. I have the newer "B" variety valve=2C so no
> customization needed on the extension. What have others experienced in
> delay time ordering direct from Andair? Wonder why Van's doesn't offer
> the extension. I note that Van's valve mount is something like .060
> aluminum. I have some .040 that would be handy to use=2C probably with
> alu. angle=2C which seems like it ought to be plenty strong=2C or just
> move Van's mount lower in the tunnel and make a plate to go on top of
> it to accommodate the Andair configuration.
>
> Kelly
> #40866
> Fuselage
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
The archives have the name of the company, sales rep and price per cable to
improve on the length. Each was less than $60.00. They are made for Van'
s in Portland. There is a lot of value buried in queries of past posts of
years ago for those who enjoy the search. They are authorized manufacturer
s for Cablecraft.
John Cox
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Thu 5/13/2010 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Engine control cables touch mount
I replaced the stock cables with 47" for the prop, 51" for mixture and 72"
for the prop. I got the cables from a local cablecraft distributor. Also,
ask for the highest temp rating you can get. The green cables from Vans a
ren't the best. A set of replacement cables should be $200 or less.
Do everything to you can to route them away from heat sources, including th
e heater dumps. I covered mine with fire sleeve in that area. The inner l
iner softens when it gets too hot, and if that happens in a radius then the
wire digs into the soft liner, eventually making a groove on the inside.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 8:27 AM, jayb <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
Anyone know how much new cables cost?
This would be an opportunity for Vans to improve their customer experience
by either providing specified cables lengths or no cable option w/ their th
rottle quadrant. Of course, I'll bet no one from Vans monitors this list.
I'm getting to the point on this project that I no longer trust ANY plan se
ction that says cut, drill or permanently attach w/o consulting the -10 lis
t for gotchas first. Caveat emptor!
Jay
[quote="partner14"]Especially if you have cold air induction,,,,, just bu
y different length cables... several had to modify the motor mounts.
Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297605#297605
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Engine control cables touch mount |
Is this the lead you are referring to John?
http://www.tuthill.com/us/en/brands/Cablecraft.cfm They make the
cables for Cessna. You can order direct form Cablecraft
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 8:14 PM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> The archives have the name of the company, sales rep and price per cable to
> improve on the length. Each was less than $60.00. They are made for Van's
> in Portland. There is a lot of value buried in queries of past posts of
> years ago for those who enjoy the search. They are authorized manufacturers
> for Cablecraft.
>
> John Cox
> ________________________________
> From: Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thu 5/13/2010 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Engine control cables touch mount
>
> I replaced the stock cables with 47" for the prop, 51" for mixture and 72"
> for the prop. I got the cables from a local cablecraft distributor. Also,
> ask for the highest temp rating you can get. The green cables from Vans
> aren't the best. A set of replacement cables should be $200 or less.
>
> Do everything to you can to route them away from heat sources, including the
> heater dumps. I covered mine with fire sleeve in that area. The inner
> liner softens when it gets too hot, and if that happens in a radius then the
> wire digs into the soft liner, eventually making a groove on the inside.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 8:27 AM, jayb <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Anyone know how much new cables cost?
>>
>> This would be an opportunity for Vans to improve their customer experience
>> by either providing specified cables lengths or no cable option w/ their
>> throttle quadrant. Of course, I'll bet no one from Vans monitors this list.
>>
>> I'm getting to the point on this project that I no longer trust ANY plan
>> section that says cut, drill or permanently attach w/o consulting the -10
>> list for gotchas first. Caveat emptor!
>>
>> Jay
>>
>>
>>
>> [quote="partner14"]Especially if you have cold air induction,,,,, just buy
>> different length cables... several had to modify the motor mounts.
>> Don
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297605#297605
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com/
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
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