Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Stein eyeball vents (Albert Gardner)
2. 08:24 AM - 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (bcondrey)
3. 08:52 AM - Re: Re: Stein eyeball vents (Chris)
4. 09:35 AM - Re: Re: Stein eyeball vents (Linn Walters)
5. 10:00 AM - Elevator balance weigth arms (John Cumins)
6. 10:11 AM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Linn Walters)
7. 10:25 AM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Strasnuts)
8. 11:40 AM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (John Cumins)
9. 12:04 PM - HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner)
10. 12:35 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (John Cumins)
11. 12:43 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (David Watterson)
12. 12:47 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (DLM)
13. 01:11 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Linn Walters)
14. 02:57 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Dave Saylor)
15. 03:34 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Jesse Saint)
16. 03:34 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Jesse Saint)
17. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner)
18. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner)
19. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (DLM)
20. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner)
21. 03:41 PM - HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner)
22. 03:42 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (DLM)
23. 04:02 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Linn Walters)
24. 04:14 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Planelights)
25. 07:13 PM - Re: Re: HID Landing Lights (Tim Olson)
26. 08:14 PM - Bulk Wire Order (Perry, Phil)
27. 09:38 PM - Re: Bulk Wire Order (Pascal)
28. 11:15 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Lenny Iszak)
29. 11:22 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (John Cumins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well
with no shortcommings as far as I know.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 2
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| Subject: | 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails have started!
Gary and I will again stake out sites for those who are interested in being in
the RV-10 HQ area. In past years this has been a group of around 25 RV-10 folks
ranging from those just starting the tail kit to those that have been flying
for multiple years. Additionally weve traditionally facilitated a couple of
large cookouts where those not camping with us can attend typically upwards
of 75-100 people including some notable vendors.
We will again stake out the sites on the Tuesday before Airventure starts which
is 7/20 this year. Payment is required in advance from the first night through
the Sunday night at the end of Airventure which winds up being 13 nights. Price
this year is $22 per night which comes out to $286. You can either mail me
a check (contact me offline for address) or use PayPal. PayPal is much easier
all the way around but there's a fee of about $9 that they'll take out so if
you use that service you'll need to send $295.
Heres how it works if youre interested:
Gary, Tim and I (and wives) simply facilitate this for the good of the group.
Cost is actual cost of the sites - this is not a profit making venture. Your
campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA number) and will be paid for
with a check rather than a credit card. This means if you leave early you will
receive a check from EAA when you turn in your site registration on your way
out of the campgrounds. I will check with Tim to see if hes willing to once
again have info on his website to facilitate people leaving early coordinating
with others coming late in the week.
Summary, if you want a campsite with the group:
- I need $286 from you ($295 if using PayPal) no later than 7/14/2010.
- If using PayPal, please send to bcondrey at cox dot net
- I will need your EAA number for the registration and your membership must be
valid through at least August 2010.
- It would be helpful if you'd send me an email with the date you're planning to
arrive and leave and the type of camper (Class A, tent, etc)
- We'll use our best judgment for the group location based on what's available
when we get there but our target will be in the same area that we've been the
last few years which is immediately south of Pauls Park in Camp Scholler (around
55th and Lindbergh).
- Sites get tagged as required using a little logic based on size of the camper,
tent vs. Class A motorhome, whether youve got kids, etc. If you dont like the
location you can swap around when you get there.
- Well have your car pass, etc. at one of our sites and you simply call when you
get close and somebody meet you at the registration gate.
Most questions can be answered with the info from last year on Tims website at: www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
Ill post more info and a reminder in a few weeks when it gets closer.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299863#299863
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
If Steins go on satisfactorily I'll save $50 for the pair.
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Stein eyeball vents
Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well
with no shortcommings as far as I know.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well
> with no shortcommings as far as I know.
>
Well, the $150 price tag might be a considered a shortcoming.!!! I'd
need 6. $900 will be used in a lot of other places!
Linn
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Elevator balance weigth arms |
Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final
drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler
block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out
of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of
me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a
bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as
stated in the plans.
I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to
being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad
more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or
a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost
perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of
then to see how close there in line to each other.
So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left
Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way
close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure
they will say build on.
So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of
aluminum or steel.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
Welcome to the club John. I welded up the offending hole ..... twice
.... before I got it right. I made the 'working' block to fill the arm
giving much more area to clamp on. I think that I ended up drilling a
little dimple to mark the spot and drilling the hole after removing the
elevator.
Linn
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When
> final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made
> a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought
> to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep
> moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can
> imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled
> as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans.
>
> I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me
> to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16
> or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up
> about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft
> spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft
> level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each
> other.
>
> So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have
> the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I
> think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see
> what they say. I am sure they will say build on.
>
> So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block
> out of aluminum or steel.
>
> John G. Cumins
>
> 40864 Emp
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
Hi John,
Not sure if you NEED to re-drill but I can guaranty you will think about it for
the rest of the build and the first flight (even if it doesn't affect it).
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299885#299885
Message 8
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| Subject: | Elevator balance weigth arms |
Linn
Thanks for the reply, were you able to get both elevators flush on both
sides or are they off just a tad like mine are.
Having a hard time not knowing they are not perfect hehehe.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms
Welcome to the club John. I welded up the offending hole ..... twice ....
before I got it right. I made the 'working' block to fill the arm giving
much more area to clamp on. I think that I ended up drilling a little
dimple to mark the spot and drilling the hole after removing the elevator.
Linn
John Cumins wrote:
Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final
drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler
block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out
of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of
me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a
bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as
stated in the plans.
I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to
being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad
more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or
a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost
perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of
then to see how close there in line to each other.
So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left
Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way
close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure
they will say build on.
So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of
aluminum or steel.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
Message 9
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 10
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Albert
Thanks for letting everyone know. That's exactly what I am planning on
doing. Did you go with the 35w or 50w unit.
John G. Cumins
40864 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 11
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Albert,
I looked at Rigid website. The pictures show plugs on the lights. Do they
match the Vans wiring harness?
David C. Watterson
N2733K
557 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
Albert
Thanks for letting everyone know. That's exactly what I am planning on
doing. Did you go with the 35w or 50w unit.
John G. Cumins
40864 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
>
> I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
> were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
> plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona,
> Mesa,
> AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and
> the
> power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
> lights up the area directly in front.
> Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the
left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up
a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the
components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and
other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the
problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work
within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut
the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the
lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
> My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
> http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com
> >
>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
>
> Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
>
>
>>
>> I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
>> were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
>> plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona,
>> Mesa,
>> AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and
>> the
>> power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
>> lights up the area directly in front.
>> Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
>> Albert Gardner
>> N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
"I would like everyone's opinion" is a very dangerous statement.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 3, 2010, at 12:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
> Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone=92s opinion on. When
final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a
filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to
make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving
got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the
drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as
humanly possible as stated in the plans.
>
> I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me
to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or
a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about
a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars
are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across
the back of then to see how close there in line to each other.
>
> So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have
the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think
I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they
say. I am sure they will say build on.
>
> So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block
out of aluminum or steel.
>
>
> John G. Cumins
>
> 40864 Emp
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
Just another experience. While the lights are much brighter and work very well
once on, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of the system. I installed
a set and every time they were turned on they drew the system voltage down
so low just instantaneously and caused the TruTrak Sorcerer to reboot. This
is a very bad thing to have happen in the landing environment when coupled on
an approach in IMC. It wasn't until we went with the certified/expensive Lopresti
system (the experimental/cheaper Lopresti system had the same problem)
in the wingtip that this problem was solved. We tried everything from running
directly from the battery with 14AWG wire and nothing helped it. I am sure it
has something to do with the power supply in the Sorcerer, but we tried 2 or
3 different programmers and they all had the same problem.
YMMV, but be aware that the quality of these lights reflects the great price.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 3, 2010, at 3:03 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
> were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
> plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
> AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
> power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
> lights up the area directly in front.
> Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I didn't use the Van's harness so I don't know. I think on mine I used a 2
wire molex connector.
Albert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Watterson
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
<davidw@dddirectories.com>
Albert,
I looked at Rigid website. The pictures show plugs on the lights. Do they
match the Vans wiring harness?
David C. Watterson
N2733K
557 hours
Message 18
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I used the 50W lamps. I'm very happy with the setup.
Albert
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
I will check the VOR reception; I have archer antenna in right wingtip
and SL30 and have noticed no problem but i will check with HID lights
on. I have had no interference with the Com.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on
the left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas
pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and
separate the components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations
and other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with
the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs
work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I
can shut the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10"
of the lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner"
<ibspud@roadrunner.com>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
<ibspud@roadrunner.com>
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights
because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in
front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of
Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans
lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very
bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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Message 20
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Since I've gotten older and suffered some high freq hearing loss most rfi
doesn't bother me nearly as much. My passengers seem to hear a whine on
occasion but I ignore them. I tell them the only time I hear a whine is when
they open their mouths. Saw your folks at lunch yesterday.
Albert
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the
left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up
a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the
components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and
other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the
problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work
within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut
the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the
lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 21
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| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I had several people contact me directly about my post so I'll copy my reply
here. I installed mine like the install pictures on their webpage
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
and it was very simple to do. I did not oval out the mounting plate however
but I'm satisfied with the results. If you fly at night I'll bet you cuss
the factory setup.
I didn't use van's wiring harness so I don't know if the plugs on the
landing lights match van's or not.
Albert Gardner
I did the retrofit on my plane after I had been flying for about a year. You
have to remove the wingtip, the new bulbs are a direct replacement for the
ones Van's supplies, and then mount the HID power supply somewhere. It is
about the size of a thin paperback book and I attached mine to the exterior
of the wingtip rib near the spar with some #8 machine screws. I used the
landing light wire to power the power supply. Wish I had taken some pictures
but it was a very simple job. Unscrewing the wingtip was the biggest part of
it.
Albert
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
also mine run much cooler than the halogen.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on
the left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas
pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and
separate the components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations
and other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with
the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs
work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I
can shut the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10"
of the lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner"
<ibspud@roadrunner.com>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
<ibspud@roadrunner.com>
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights
because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in
front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of
Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans
lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very
bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
Jesse, it was a question, not a statement, and where else can you get so
many opinions???
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
> "I would like everyone's opinion" is a very dangerous statement.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 3, 2010, at 12:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
>> Well I have a slight issue I would like everyones opinion on. When
>> final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made
>> a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought
>> to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep
>> moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can
>> imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled
>> as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans.
>>
>> I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me
>> to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16
>> or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up
>> about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator
>> aft spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft
>> level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each
>> other.
>>
>> So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have
>> the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I
>> think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see
>> what they say. I am sure they will say build on.
>>
>> So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block
>> out of aluminum or steel.
>>
>>
>> John G. Cumins
>>
>> 40864 Emp
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
Albert,
Glad to hear you are happy with the system.
All our systems come with wire pigtail adapters that you splice into your stock
wiring however you would like. We always suggest solder and shrink wrap although
but connectors work just fine. The plugs between the ballast and the bulbs
are high voltage plugs and wire, don't cut those, ever!
There will be a current surge in any HID system. It doesn't matter if you use
a Xevision, lopresti or ours. We recommend using at least 14ga wire out to the
wings to be on the safe side. Each 50w light @ 14v will pull about 7a for 10
sec. Once the lights are warm, the power draw will stabilize about 4-4.5a.
We have done all we can to shield the circuitry and use shielded HV wire, but
23,000v will cause a little interference. The only way to solve that is a very
expensive D1S bulb with the igniter built onto the back of bulb. Xevison makes
a very nice system, but you are going to pay quite a bit to get the same
light output. With a couple precautions almost all the RFI noise can be eliminated
for 1/4 the price.
We have sold close to 500 MR16 sets over the last 3 years and only 1 set has ever
knocked an autopilot off. If by some fluke you are the second, we will be
glad to give you a refund, just as we did for Jesse.
I am not on here very often so if you have questions please email me via the link
on the website.
Thanks
Steve(Planelights/Rigid)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299939#299939
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
The Duckwrorks system that I and many other earlier fliers
put in is this DS1 style bulb. I actually picked them
for that reason, because after doing the research I knew DS1
would be the way to go.
http://duckworksav.com/LELightKits.html#HID
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Planelights wrote:
>
> Albert,
>
> Glad to hear you are happy with the system.
>
> All our systems come with wire pigtail adapters that you splice into your stock
wiring however you would like. We always suggest solder and shrink wrap although
but connectors work just fine. The plugs between the ballast and the bulbs
are high voltage plugs and wire, don't cut those, ever!
>
> There will be a current surge in any HID system. It doesn't matter if you use
a Xevision, lopresti or ours. We recommend using at least 14ga wire out to
the wings to be on the safe side. Each 50w light @ 14v will pull about 7a for
10 sec. Once the lights are warm, the power draw will stabilize about 4-4.5a.
We have done all we can to shield the circuitry and use shielded HV wire, but
23,000v will cause a little interference. The only way to solve that is a
very expensive D1S bulb with the igniter built onto the back of bulb. Xevison
makes a very nice system, but you are going to pay quite a bit to get the same
light output. With a couple precautions almost all the RFI noise can be eliminated
for 1/4 the price.
>
> We have sold close to 500 MR16 sets over the last 3 years and only 1 set has
ever knocked an autopilot off. If by some fluke you are the second, we will be
glad to give you a refund, just as we did for Jesse.
>
> I am not on here very often so if you have questions please email me via the
link on the website.
>
> Thanks
> Steve(Planelights/Rigid)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299939#299939
>
>
Message 26
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Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building
time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2
hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track.
I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes
seem to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes
and use the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size
capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to
buy and store in the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Bulk Wire Order |
Here is something from my archives from Stein.
Sending the whole message but stick with the wires section only, worry
about the BNC after you have the panel figured out.
--------------
Stick with the standard M22759/16 Tefzel wire...don't bother with
teflon,
silver plated, etc...or surplus stuff (you never know what you're
getting).
Also, if you spend more than a few hours "hunting" for a deal, you've
just
wasted enough time to buy what you want and what you need brand new.
Depending on what you're doing with the plane and panel, buy at least
the
following initially:
200' AWG22
200' AWG18
150' AWG16
50' AWG20
50' AWG14
25' AWG12
25' AWG10
100' RG-400 Coax
a dozen male BNC's, a half dozen female BNC's, a couple hundred PIDG
ring
terminals, and some heatshrink.
Now, depending on if you want colors or not you can split all that up.
The
above wiring amounts could vary pretty significantly depending on if
you're
wiring your own panel or not, whether you're going full boat on
lighting,
radios, IFR/VFR, etc.. I wouldn't waste my time buying whole spools
then
trying to sell the surplus. Heck, wire is relatively cheap, we're
talking
about something that costs pennies per foot...you'll only spend a
couple/few
hundred bucks of wire total. Why waste your time goofing
around.......figure out what you need, what colors you want and just buy
it.
As someone who regularly buys wire in 10,000' - 20,000' spools and keeps
over a half million feet of wire "hanging around", I can tell you
playing
with spools to save a few percent is a waste of time on an item like
this,
for one airplane. With your Avionics or engine it's a different story
because you can save a lot of dough, but in the wiring it's such a cheap
item to begin with that it's not worth much effort to save a buck.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
--------------------
Pascal
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building
time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2
hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track.
I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes
seem to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes
and use the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size
capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to
buy and store in the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
I had a similar problem on mine. Van's told me to just weld it and drill it again.
I did not want to think about that thing failing while flying, so i just bought
new elevator horns and replaced them. Wasn't too hard and I felt that it
was worth the effort.
You can see some pictures I posted here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=43969&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=23
Lenny
#40803
White spaghetti everywhere...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299984#299984
Message 29
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| Subject: | Elevator balance weigth arms |
Jesse
It is like asking what kind of Primer to use or not. HEHEH thanks.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms
"I would like everyone's opinion" is a very dangerous statement.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 3, 2010, at 12:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final
drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler
block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out
of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of
me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a
bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as
stated in the plans.
I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to
being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad
more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or
a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost
perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of
then to see how close there in line to each other.
So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left
Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way
close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure
they will say build on.
So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of
aluminum or steel.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp
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