---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 06/03/10: 29 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Stein eyeball vents (Albert Gardner) 2. 08:24 AM - 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (bcondrey) 3. 08:52 AM - Re: Re: Stein eyeball vents (Chris) 4. 09:35 AM - Re: Re: Stein eyeball vents (Linn Walters) 5. 10:00 AM - Elevator balance weigth arms (John Cumins) 6. 10:11 AM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Linn Walters) 7. 10:25 AM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Strasnuts) 8. 11:40 AM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (John Cumins) 9. 12:04 PM - HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner) 10. 12:35 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (John Cumins) 11. 12:43 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (David Watterson) 12. 12:47 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (DLM) 13. 01:11 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Linn Walters) 14. 02:57 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Dave Saylor) 15. 03:34 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Jesse Saint) 16. 03:34 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Jesse Saint) 17. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner) 18. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner) 19. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (DLM) 20. 03:41 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner) 21. 03:41 PM - HID Landing Lights (Albert Gardner) 22. 03:42 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (DLM) 23. 04:02 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Linn Walters) 24. 04:14 PM - Re: HID Landing Lights (Planelights) 25. 07:13 PM - Re: Re: HID Landing Lights (Tim Olson) 26. 08:14 PM - Bulk Wire Order (Perry, Phil) 27. 09:38 PM - Re: Bulk Wire Order (Pascal) 28. 11:15 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (Lenny Iszak) 29. 11:22 PM - Re: Elevator balance weigth arms (John Cumins) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:58 AM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Stein eyeball vents Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well with no shortcommings as far as I know. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:24:10 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping From: "bcondrey" It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails have started! Gary and I will again stake out sites for those who are interested in being in the RV-10 HQ area. In past years this has been a group of around 25 RV-10 folks ranging from those just starting the tail kit to those that have been flying for multiple years. Additionally weve traditionally facilitated a couple of large cookouts where those not camping with us can attend typically upwards of 75-100 people including some notable vendors. We will again stake out the sites on the Tuesday before Airventure starts which is 7/20 this year. Payment is required in advance from the first night through the Sunday night at the end of Airventure which winds up being 13 nights. Price this year is $22 per night which comes out to $286. You can either mail me a check (contact me offline for address) or use PayPal. PayPal is much easier all the way around but there's a fee of about $9 that they'll take out so if you use that service you'll need to send $295. Heres how it works if youre interested: Gary, Tim and I (and wives) simply facilitate this for the good of the group. Cost is actual cost of the sites - this is not a profit making venture. Your campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA number) and will be paid for with a check rather than a credit card. This means if you leave early you will receive a check from EAA when you turn in your site registration on your way out of the campgrounds. I will check with Tim to see if hes willing to once again have info on his website to facilitate people leaving early coordinating with others coming late in the week. Summary, if you want a campsite with the group: - I need $286 from you ($295 if using PayPal) no later than 7/14/2010. - If using PayPal, please send to bcondrey at cox dot net - I will need your EAA number for the registration and your membership must be valid through at least August 2010. - It would be helpful if you'd send me an email with the date you're planning to arrive and leave and the type of camper (Class A, tent, etc) - We'll use our best judgment for the group location based on what's available when we get there but our target will be in the same area that we've been the last few years which is immediately south of Pauls Park in Camp Scholler (around 55th and Lindbergh). - Sites get tagged as required using a little logic based on size of the camper, tent vs. Class A motorhome, whether youve got kids, etc. If you dont like the location you can swap around when you get there. - Well have your car pass, etc. at one of our sites and you simply call when you get close and somebody meet you at the registration gate. Most questions can be answered with the info from last year on Tims website at: www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html Ill post more info and a reminder in a few weeks when it gets closer. Bob RV-10 N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299863#299863 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:52:34 AM PST US From: "Chris" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Stein eyeball vents If Steins go on satisfactorily I'll save $50 for the pair. -Chris -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:23 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Stein eyeball vents Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well with no shortcommings as far as I know. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:35:15 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Stein eyeball vents Albert Gardner wrote: > > Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well > with no shortcommings as far as I know. > Well, the $150 price tag might be a considered a shortcoming.!!! I'd need 6. $900 will be used in a lot of other places! Linn > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:00:59 AM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans. I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each other. So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure they will say build on. So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of aluminum or steel. John G. Cumins 40864 Emp ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:11:25 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms Welcome to the club John. I welded up the offending hole ..... twice .... before I got it right. I made the 'working' block to fill the arm giving much more area to clamp on. I think that I ended up drilling a little dimple to mark the spot and drilling the hole after removing the elevator. Linn John Cumins wrote: > > Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When > final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made > a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought > to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep > moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can > imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled > as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans. > > I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me > to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 > or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up > about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft > spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft > level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each > other. > > So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have > the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I > think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see > what they say. I am sure they will say build on. > > So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block > out of aluminum or steel. > > John G. Cumins > > 40864 Emp > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:25:43 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevator balance weigth arms From: "Strasnuts" Hi John, Not sure if you NEED to re-drill but I can guaranty you will think about it for the rest of the build and the first flight (even if it doesn't affect it). -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299885#299885 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:40:37 AM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms Linn Thanks for the reply, were you able to get both elevators flush on both sides or are they off just a tad like mine are. Having a hard time not knowing they are not perfect hehehe. John G. Cumins President 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94534 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:10 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms Welcome to the club John. I welded up the offending hole ..... twice .... before I got it right. I made the 'working' block to fill the arm giving much more area to clamp on. I think that I ended up drilling a little dimple to mark the spot and drilling the hole after removing the elevator. Linn John Cumins wrote: Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans. I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each other. So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure they will say build on. So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of aluminum or steel. John G. Cumins 40864 Emp href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri bution ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:04:41 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and lights up the area directly in front. Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:35:58 PM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights Albert Thanks for letting everyone know. That's exactly what I am planning on doing. Did you go with the 35w or 50w unit. John G. Cumins 40864 emp -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and lights up the area directly in front. Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:43:47 PM PST US From: "David Watterson" Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights Albert, I looked at Rigid website. The pictures show plugs on the lights. Do they match the Vans wiring harness? David C. Watterson N2733K 557 hours -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights Albert Thanks for letting everyone know. That's exactly what I am planning on doing. Did you go with the 35w or 50w unit. John G. Cumins 40864 emp -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and lights up the area directly in front. Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:47:54 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights My aircraft is the one shown on the website. http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights > > I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they > were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the > plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, > Mesa, > AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and > the > power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and > lights up the area directly in front. > Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. > Albert Gardner > N991RV > Yuma, AZ > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:11:43 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:57:14 PM PST US From: Dave Saylor Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too. I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ. I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the left. The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the components, all is well. I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer, grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and other things as well. No luck. The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut the lights off. BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the lamp... Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote: > > My aircraft is the one shown on the website. > http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" > > > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights > > >> >> I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they >> were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the >> plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, >> Mesa, >> AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and >> the >> power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and >> lights up the area directly in front. >> Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. >> Albert Gardner >> N991RV >> Yuma, AZ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:34:04 PM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms "I would like everyone's opinion" is a very dangerous statement. do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Jun 3, 2010, at 12:53 PM, John Cumins wrote: > Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone=92s opinion on. When final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans. > > I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each other. > > So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure they will say build on. > > So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of aluminum or steel. > > > John G. Cumins > > 40864 Emp > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:34:10 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights From: Jesse Saint Just another experience. While the lights are much brighter and work very well once on, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of the system. I installed a set and every time they were turned on they drew the system voltage down so low just instantaneously and caused the TruTrak Sorcerer to reboot. This is a very bad thing to have happen in the landing environment when coupled on an approach in IMC. It wasn't until we went with the certified/expensive Lopresti system (the experimental/cheaper Lopresti system had the same problem) in the wingtip that this problem was solved. We tried everything from running directly from the battery with 14AWG wire and nothing helped it. I am sure it has something to do with the power supply in the Sorcerer, but we tried 2 or 3 different programmers and they all had the same problem. YMMV, but be aware that the quality of these lights reflects the great price. do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Jun 3, 2010, at 3:03 PM, Albert Gardner wrote: > > I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they > were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the > plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, > AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the > power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and > lights up the area directly in front. > Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. > Albert Gardner > N991RV > Yuma, AZ > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:32 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I didn't use the Van's harness so I don't know. I think on mine I used a 2 wire molex connector. Albert -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Watterson Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:43 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights Albert, I looked at Rigid website. The pictures show plugs on the lights. Do they match the Vans wiring harness? David C. Watterson N2733K 557 hours ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:32 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I used the 50W lamps. I'm very happy with the setup. Albert ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:33 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I will check the VOR reception; I have archer antenna in right wingtip and SL30 and have noticed no problem but i will check with HID lights on. I have had no interference with the Com. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Saylor To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too. I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ. I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the left. The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the components, all is well. I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer, grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and other things as well. No luck. The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut the lights off. BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the lamp... Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote: My aircraft is the one shown on the website. http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" To: Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and lights up the area directly in front. Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:33 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights Since I've gotten older and suffered some high freq hearing loss most rfi doesn't bother me nearly as much. My passengers seem to hear a whine on occasion but I ignore them. I tell them the only time I hear a whine is when they open their mouths. Saw your folks at lunch yesterday. Albert From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too. I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ. I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the left. The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the components, all is well. I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer, grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and other things as well. No luck. The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut the lights off. BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the lamp... Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote: My aircraft is the one shown on the website. http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and lights up the area directly in front. Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:34 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I had several people contact me directly about my post so I'll copy my reply here. I installed mine like the install pictures on their webpage http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 and it was very simple to do. I did not oval out the mounting plate however but I'm satisfied with the results. If you fly at night I'll bet you cuss the factory setup. I didn't use van's wiring harness so I don't know if the plugs on the landing lights match van's or not. Albert Gardner I did the retrofit on my plane after I had been flying for about a year. You have to remove the wingtip, the new bulbs are a direct replacement for the ones Van's supplies, and then mount the HID power supply somewhere. It is about the size of a thin paperback book and I attached mine to the exterior of the wingtip rib near the spar with some #8 machine screws. I used the landing light wire to power the power supply. Wish I had taken some pictures but it was a very simple job. Unscrewing the wingtip was the biggest part of it. Albert ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:42:25 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights also mine run much cooler than the halogen. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Saylor To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too. I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ. I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the left. The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the components, all is well. I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer, grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and other things as well. No luck. The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut the lights off. BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the lamp... Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote: My aircraft is the one shown on the website. http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" To: Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa, AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and lights up the area directly in front. Tower says I look like an airliner on approach. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:02:25 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms Jesse, it was a question, not a statement, and where else can you get so many opinions??? Linn Jesse Saint wrote: > "I would like everyone's opinion" is a very dangerous statement. > > do not archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > On Jun 3, 2010, at 12:53 PM, John Cumins wrote: > >> Well I have a slight issue I would like everyones opinion on. When >> final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made >> a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought >> to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep >> moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can >> imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled >> as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans. >> >> I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me >> to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 >> or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up >> about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator >> aft spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft >> level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each >> other. >> >> So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have >> the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I >> think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see >> what they say. I am sure they will say build on. >> >> So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block >> out of aluminum or steel. >> >> >> John G. Cumins >> >> 40864 Emp >> >> >> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:14:40 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: HID Landing Lights From: "Planelights" Albert, Glad to hear you are happy with the system. All our systems come with wire pigtail adapters that you splice into your stock wiring however you would like. We always suggest solder and shrink wrap although but connectors work just fine. The plugs between the ballast and the bulbs are high voltage plugs and wire, don't cut those, ever! There will be a current surge in any HID system. It doesn't matter if you use a Xevision, lopresti or ours. We recommend using at least 14ga wire out to the wings to be on the safe side. Each 50w light @ 14v will pull about 7a for 10 sec. Once the lights are warm, the power draw will stabilize about 4-4.5a. We have done all we can to shield the circuitry and use shielded HV wire, but 23,000v will cause a little interference. The only way to solve that is a very expensive D1S bulb with the igniter built onto the back of bulb. Xevison makes a very nice system, but you are going to pay quite a bit to get the same light output. With a couple precautions almost all the RFI noise can be eliminated for 1/4 the price. We have sold close to 500 MR16 sets over the last 3 years and only 1 set has ever knocked an autopilot off. If by some fluke you are the second, we will be glad to give you a refund, just as we did for Jesse. I am not on here very often so if you have questions please email me via the link on the website. Thanks Steve(Planelights/Rigid) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299939#299939 ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 07:13:16 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: HID Landing Lights The Duckwrorks system that I and many other earlier fliers put in is this DS1 style bulb. I actually picked them for that reason, because after doing the research I knew DS1 would be the way to go. http://duckworksav.com/LELightKits.html#HID Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD do not archive Planelights wrote: > > Albert, > > Glad to hear you are happy with the system. > > All our systems come with wire pigtail adapters that you splice into your stock wiring however you would like. We always suggest solder and shrink wrap although but connectors work just fine. The plugs between the ballast and the bulbs are high voltage plugs and wire, don't cut those, ever! > > There will be a current surge in any HID system. It doesn't matter if you use a Xevision, lopresti or ours. We recommend using at least 14ga wire out to the wings to be on the safe side. Each 50w light @ 14v will pull about 7a for 10 sec. Once the lights are warm, the power draw will stabilize about 4-4.5a. We have done all we can to shield the circuitry and use shielded HV wire, but 23,000v will cause a little interference. The only way to solve that is a very expensive D1S bulb with the igniter built onto the back of bulb. Xevison makes a very nice system, but you are going to pay quite a bit to get the same light output. With a couple precautions almost all the RFI noise can be eliminated for 1/4 the price. > > We have sold close to 500 MR16 sets over the last 3 years and only 1 set has ever knocked an autopilot off. If by some fluke you are the second, we will be glad to give you a refund, just as we did for Jesse. > > I am not on here very often so if you have questions please email me via the link on the website. > > Thanks > Steve(Planelights/Rigid) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299939#299939 > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 08:14:44 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order From: "Perry, Phil" Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2 hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track. I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes seem to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes and use the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to buy and store in the garage. Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most? Phil ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:38:21 PM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order Here is something from my archives from Stein. Sending the whole message but stick with the wires section only, worry about the BNC after you have the panel figured out. -------------- Stick with the standard M22759/16 Tefzel wire...don't bother with teflon, silver plated, etc...or surplus stuff (you never know what you're getting). Also, if you spend more than a few hours "hunting" for a deal, you've just wasted enough time to buy what you want and what you need brand new. Depending on what you're doing with the plane and panel, buy at least the following initially: 200' AWG22 200' AWG18 150' AWG16 50' AWG20 50' AWG14 25' AWG12 25' AWG10 100' RG-400 Coax a dozen male BNC's, a half dozen female BNC's, a couple hundred PIDG ring terminals, and some heatshrink. Now, depending on if you want colors or not you can split all that up. The above wiring amounts could vary pretty significantly depending on if you're wiring your own panel or not, whether you're going full boat on lighting, radios, IFR/VFR, etc.. I wouldn't waste my time buying whole spools then trying to sell the surplus. Heck, wire is relatively cheap, we're talking about something that costs pennies per foot...you'll only spend a couple/few hundred bucks of wire total. Why waste your time goofing around.......figure out what you need, what colors you want and just buy it. As someone who regularly buys wire in 10,000' - 20,000' spools and keeps over a half million feet of wire "hanging around", I can tell you playing with spools to save a few percent is a waste of time on an item like this, for one airplane. With your Avionics or engine it's a different story because you can save a lot of dough, but in the wiring it's such a cheap item to begin with that it's not worth much effort to save a buck. Just my 2 cents as usual! Cheers, Stein. -------------------- Pascal From: Perry, Phil Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 8:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2 hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track. I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes seem to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes and use the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to buy and store in the garage. Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most? Phil ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 11:15:22 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevator balance weigth arms From: "Lenny Iszak" I had a similar problem on mine. Van's told me to just weld it and drill it again. I did not want to think about that thing failing while flying, so i just bought new elevator horns and replaced them. Wasn't too hard and I felt that it was worth the effort. You can see some pictures I posted here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=43969&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=23 Lenny #40803 White spaghetti everywhere... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299984#299984 ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:35 PM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms Jesse It is like asking what kind of Primer to use or not. HEHEH thanks. John G. Cumins President 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94534 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms "I would like everyone's opinion" is a very dangerous statement. do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Jun 3, 2010, at 12:53 PM, John Cumins wrote: Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans. I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each other. So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure they will say build on. So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of aluminum or steel. John G. Cumins 40864 Emp href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri bution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.