Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:39 AM - Pitot install and brake lines (Russell Ford)
2. 03:54 AM - Re: Pitot install and brake lines (Bob Leffler)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Pitot install and brake lines (Rene Felker)
4. 07:30 AM - Re: Pitot install and brake lines (AirMike)
5. 08:04 AM - brake fluid loss (DLM)
6. 08:16 AM - Re: Pitot install and brake lines (Kelly McMullen)
7. 10:25 AM - Re: brake fluid loss (Rene Felker)
8. 10:33 AM - Tray Spacing (Bob Leffler)
9. 10:39 AM - Re: brake fluid loss (Tim Olson)
10. 10:58 AM - Re: Tray Spacing (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
11. 01:34 PM - Re: Tray Spacing (Bob Leffler)
12. 02:39 PM - Re: Tray Spacing (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
13. 03:13 PM - Re: Tray Spacing (Jesse Saint)
14. 06:33 PM - Cowl Flaps (Tom Koelzer)
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| Subject: | Pitot install and brake lines |
Q 1. I believe there are many people installing the Getz heated pitot
systems on their RV10's. Is this still the best way to go?
Q 2. Is braided Teflon brake lines the best way to go? Can someone
recommend a manufacturer.
Thanks,
Russell Ford
"Old Coree" Conargo Road JERILDERIE | NSW 2716
AUSTRALIA
T. +61 3 5886 1391 | M. 0429425798
E. rford@rrapl.com <mailto:rford@rrapl.com> |
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Pitot install and brake lines |
Russell,
The answer to your questions will be based more on personal opinions than
definitive facts.
I went with the Gretz heated pitot because of the control module that
regulates and conserves power. Additionally, Vertical Power makes an
interface that integrates the LEDs into the VP-200 DU annunciators so you
don't have to mount the Gretz LED module. Dynon has a nice heated pitot
for the same price. You have to manually turn it on and off. However, it
does have a AOA port if you are going with a Dynon EFIS. Gretz sold the
business to Angus Aviation a couple years ago. Andrew provides good
service and is in Australia. http://www.angusaviation.com
I went with Bonaco brake lines. They have a pre-made kit available for the
RV-10. http://www.bonacoinc.com/ Unfortunately, Brent doesn't do email
well. Best service is by telephone. That may cause you some logistics
issues from Australia. You can get the lines in a variety of colors. There
are other vendors that supply lines, but Bonaco has products already
engineered for RV-10s.
There really isn't any best way to go. All options have positive and
negative trade-offs. For example the Bonaco brake lines are more robust
that the standard Van's brake line tubing, but because the lines aren't
transparent, they may be a little more difficult to tell if you have any air
bubbles. You'll need to decide what attributes are important to you.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Ford
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 3:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot install and brake lines
Q 1. I believe there are many people installing the Getz heated pitot
systems on their RV10's. Is this still the best way to go?
Q 2. Is braided Teflon brake lines the best way to go? Can someone
recommend a manufacturer.
Thanks,
Russell Ford
"Old Coree" Conargo Road JERILDERIE | NSW 2716
AUSTRALIA
T. +61 3 5886 1391 | M. 0429425798
E. rford@rrapl.com |
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Pitot install and brake lines |
Opinion alert..
1. I used the Getz..think it was a good choice, but haven't needed it
yet - no real IFR in the soup.
2. I went standard and have stayed standard inside the cockpit...no
regrets there. But, at my second annual, I had a leak in the right brake
line by the fuselage connection. It looked like that fitting had been
"worked" a little. I am assuming by my less than perfect landings. So I
replaced the lines with the Bonaco lines. I think that they will hold up
better to the flexing of the gear.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Ford
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 1:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot install and brake lines
Q 1. I believe there are many people installing the Getz heated pitot
systems on their RV10's. Is this still the best way to go?
Q 2. Is braided Teflon brake lines the best way to go? Can someone
recommend a manufacturer.
Thanks,
Russell Ford
"Old Coree" Conargo Road JERILDERIE | NSW 2716
AUSTRALIA
T. +61 3 5886 1391 | M. 0429425798
E. rford@rrapl.com |
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot install and brake lines |
Gretz and Bonaco - both good stuff. (bonaco Fuel also)
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302820#302820
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| Subject: | brake fluid loss |
After last bleeding of the brakes, we had near full lines. Now we have
air in the lines between the reservoir and the right seat brake
cylinders. Initially we found a 5606 residue on the firewall below the
reservoir. Cleaned that off and do not have it now but clear lines from
the reservoir to the right seat cylinders. At the annual in April,
opened the tunnel and cleaned the fuel filter. No seep from the brake
lines was observed. My lines have a union at the forward and a bulkhead
fitting where the lines exit the tunnel under the seats. No seep was
observed there in April. The only thing not checked in April was the
bulkhead fitting to the SS braided Teflon lines to the brake calipers
and the brake calipers Whatever loss is occurring is a seep and very
slowly but we want to fix. Anyone else experience this?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot install and brake lines |
Kind of a question of how many lines do you want to run, and what part
of the country you are in. In Oregon, I would probably want the Gretz.
In dry climate, pitot heat is needed so rarely that just having it on a
switch is more than adequate. The other half of the question is whether
you want angle of attack or not. I believe AFS requires 2 lines for AOA,
while Dynon combo pitot/AOA requires just one line for AOA. Also, EFIS
choice will affect any choice on AOA unless you want AOA as separate
instrument.
On 6/28/2010 5:43 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> Opinion alert
>
> 1. I used the Getzthink it was a good choice, but havent needed it
> yet no real IFR in the soup.
>
> 2. I went standard and have stayed standard inside the cockpit..no
> regrets there. But, at my second annual, I had a leak in the right
> brake line by the fuselage connection. It looked like that fitting had
> been worked a little. I am assuming by my less than perfect
> landings. So I replaced the lines with the Bonaco lines. I think that
> they will hold up better to the flexing of the gear.
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Russell Ford
> *Sent:* Monday, June 28, 2010 1:33 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Pitot install and brake lines
>
> Q 1. I believe there are many people installing the Getz heated pitot
> systems on their RV10s. Is this still the best way to go?
>
> Q 2. Is braided Teflon brake lines the best way to go? Can someone
> recommend a manufacturer.
>
> Thanks,
>
> *Russell Ford*
>
> "Old Coree" Conargo Road JERILDERIE | NSW 2716
> AUSTRALIA
> T. +61 3 5886 1391 | M. 0429425798
> E. rford@rrapl.com <mailto:rford@rrapl.com> |
>
> Message protected by MailGuard: e-mail anti-virus, anti-spam and
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Message 7
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| Subject: | brake fluid loss |
I also had the leak at the firewall, had to reset the plastic fitting into
the reservoir. But I had other leaks, that accounted for some loss.
Depending on how you filled the system, trapped air will accumulate over
time. Also, break wear will allow more fluid into the calipers and show
some fluid usage.
I am hoping to see less usage this next year with the new brake lines on the
gear leg....but I only lost about 1 oz or less last year.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 8:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: brake fluid loss
After last bleeding of the brakes, we had near full lines. Now we have air
in the lines between the reservoir and the right seat brake cylinders.
Initially we found a 5606 residue on the firewall below the reservoir.
Cleaned that off and do not have it now but clear lines from the reservoir
to the right seat cylinders. At the annual in April, opened the tunnel and
cleaned the fuel filter. No seep from the brake lines was observed. My lines
have a union at the forward and a bulkhead fitting where the lines exit the
tunnel under the seats. No seep was observed there in April. The only thing
not checked in April was the bulkhead fitting to the SS braided Teflon lines
to the brake calipers and the brake calipers Whatever loss is occurring is a
seep and very slowly but we want to fix. Anyone else experience this?
Message 8
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I'm in the process of installing my radio stack, which is a pretty typical
installation. (GNS-430w, SL-30, GTX-330, and PSE9000)
I have a question about spacing between the units, since I only have the
trays at the moment and not the radios at the moment. Are the dimples on
the top and bottoms of the tray proper spacing, or do I need to allow for
more spacing?
Thanks,
Bob
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: brake fluid loss |
I had a small seep at the firewall too once, but now with
the Bonaco lines they replace the fitting with a metal
one. It's totally tight. Never had a leak anywhere else.
What I think happens is that the volume of the master
cylinder on the firewall is so small that when your
brakes are worn almost out, it will be empty, and your
lines above the pedals will start to show air. With my
new lines, I won't see that anymore, but, if it's not
leaking, it won't be a problem. I'd just dipstick the
reservoir occasionally so you can see where the level
is at.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/28/2010 9:53 AM, DLM wrote:
> After last bleeding of the brakes, we had near full lines. Now we have
> air in the lines between the reservoir and the right seat brake
> cylinders. Initially we found a 5606 residue on the firewall below the
> reservoir. Cleaned that off and do not have it now but clear lines from
> the reservoir to the right seat cylinders. At the annual in April,
> opened the tunnel and cleaned the fuel filter. No seep from the brake
> lines was observed. My lines have a union at the forward and a bulkhead
> fitting where the lines exit the tunnel under the seats. No seep was
> observed there in April. The only thing not checked in April was the
> bulkhead fitting to the SS braided Teflon lines to the brake calipers
> and the brake calipers Whatever loss is occurring is a seep and very
> slowly but we want to fix. Anyone else experience this?
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tray Spacing |
I found them to have the proper spacing as I recall - similar stack.
However, the front to back spacing is far from consistent. In my
opinion, you have to have the boxes in order to build proper supports
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Im in the process of installing my radio stack, which is a pretty
> typical installation. (GNS-430w, SL-30, GTX-330, and PSE9000)
>
> I have a question about spacing between the units, since I only have
> the trays at the moment and not the radios at the moment. Are the
> dimples on the top and bottoms of the tray proper spacing, or do I
> need to allow for more spacing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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I was aware that the 430 tray sticks out a bit. There is a warning in the
install manual. Do the mounting holes on the side line up? I guess that
was my assumption, but you know how that goes.
So are we going to see the Maule or the RV-10 at Osh this year?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tray Spacing
--> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I found them to have the proper spacing as I recall - similar stack.
However, the front to back spacing is far from consistent. In my opinion,
you have to have the boxes in order to build proper supports
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of installing my radio stack, which is a pretty
> typical installation. (GNS-430w, SL-30, GTX-330, and PSE9000)
>
> I have a question about spacing between the units, since I only have
> the trays at the moment and not the radios at the moment. Are the
> dimples on the top and bottoms of the tray proper spacing, or do I
> need to allow for more spacing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tray Spacing |
I swore that the next time I come to Osh, it will be in the '10. Almost
have my spray booth together and hope to start up the paint learning
curve this weekend.
Bill "4 years in July and counting" Watson
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I was aware that the 430 tray sticks out a bit. There is a warning in the
> install manual. Do the mounting holes on the side line up? I guess that
> was my assumption, but you know how that goes.
>
> So are we going to see the Maule or the RV-10 at Osh this year?
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
> Watson
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 1:55 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tray Spacing
>
> --> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I found them to have the proper spacing as I recall - similar stack.
>
> However, the front to back spacing is far from consistent. In my opinion,
> you have to have the boxes in order to build proper supports
>
> Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>> I'm in the process of installing my radio stack, which is a pretty
>> typical installation. (GNS-430w, SL-30, GTX-330, and PSE9000)
>>
>> I have a question about spacing between the units, since I only have
>> the trays at the moment and not the radios at the moment. Are the
>> dimples on the top and bottoms of the tray proper spacing, or do I
>> need to allow for more spacing?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tray Spacing |
You should be able to make all of the mounting holes in a line on your angle or
whatever you are using to mount them. The only gotcha I've seen is that with
the SL-30 tray, when you mount the tray, it needs a washer at least on one side
between the tray and your support, because the tray itself is a little narrower
than the other trays (just the SL-30 and SL-40). If you just straight mount
them the tray will deform a little bit and will make it harder to get the
instrument in the tray. I usually look up the dimensions online and total them
(for height) and add .010" to the overall height for my hole in the panel, then
I stack the trays and tape them together. I use aluminum angle to mount them
to the panel, so I draw a line a little past 1/2 way back on the angle and
hold the tray stack on the angle and mark the center of all of the holes. I
then drill the holes #40 in one angle, then clamp the two angles together and
drill #30 then #27 for the #6 screws. I usually use #6 screws and nyloc nuts
to hold the trays onto the angle and then use nutplates & #8 screws to hold the
assembly onto the panel. That way I can wire the trays into the plane and let
them just sit in place, but I can put my panel in and take it out without messing
with the trays. I usually split the panel (when using a standard Van's-style
panel) on one side of the stack or the other so the stack assembly holds
the panel halves together, which also lets you take off one side or the other
and get to the side of the stack assembly for rear support and for wiring.
Hope this helps.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Jun 28, 2010, at 4:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I was aware that the 430 tray sticks out a bit. There is a warning in the
> install manual. Do the mounting holes on the side line up? I guess that
> was my assumption, but you know how that goes.
>
> So are we going to see the Maule or the RV-10 at Osh this year?
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
> Watson
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 1:55 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tray Spacing
>
> --> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I found them to have the proper spacing as I recall - similar stack.
>
> However, the front to back spacing is far from consistent. In my opinion,
> you have to have the boxes in order to build proper supports
>
> Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> I'm in the process of installing my radio stack, which is a pretty
>> typical installation. (GNS-430w, SL-30, GTX-330, and PSE9000)
>>
>> I have a question about spacing between the units, since I only have
>> the trays at the moment and not the radios at the moment. Are the
>> dimples on the top and bottoms of the tray proper spacing, or do I
>> need to allow for more spacing?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Any one build cowl flaps for the rv-10?
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