Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:05 AM - Re: rivets... (Chris Colohan)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: rivets... (fdombroski)
3. 09:39 AM - Re: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (Don McDonald)
4. 10:37 AM - Re: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (DLM)
5. 10:37 AM - Re: rivets... (John Cumins)
6. 11:09 AM - Door Seals (Bob Leffler)
7. 11:35 AM - Re: Door Seals (Fred Williams, M.D.)
8. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 12:41 PM - Re: Door Seals (Pascal)
10. 12:55 PM - AC cooling chest (Lew Gallagher)
11. 03:40 PM - N210KH into phase II (greghale)
12. 03:50 PM - Re: AC cooling chest (Marcus Cooper)
13. 04:29 PM - Re: AC cooling chest (rv10flyer)
14. 05:59 PM - OSH Motorhome Rental (bcondrey)
15. 06:00 PM - Prop Governor cable routing (dmaib@me.com)
16. 08:18 PM - Re: Prop Governor cable routing (tomhanaway)
17. 08:42 PM - Cowl (Alan Bikle)
18. 11:44 PM - Re: Cowl (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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FYI -- I just looked over the Isham tool kit, and have a couple of comments
:
- it doesn't come with a hand squeezer. You may be able to use the
pneumatic squeezer for everything, but personally I like the level of
control a hand-squeezer gives me. (Aka, it takes more deliberate effort to
make a "whoops" for my beginner skills.) I've found that I can use most an
y
hand squeezer for 3/32" rivets, but I can only really hand-squeeze 1/8"
rivets using the Cleveland Main Squeeze. (The Avery one and other cheaper
ones don't have enough leverage for me.)
- I just started my RV-10 horizontal stabilizer, and realized I needed to
order more 3/32" clecos. I had 300, now I have 500. (The RV-10 upgrade
Isham offers bumps you up to 500 clecos, so if you have that you are
golden.)
- don't trust the rivet lengths given by Van's. Check the length with a
rivet gauge before setting them. (Drilling them out after if they are too
short is _painful_!)
- the toolbox is a good project to learn on. But you may find yourself
wanting to do more before your riveting feels "perfect". Either buy and
build more toolboxes, buy the sportair practice kit (you assemble a small
wing segment), or get some scrap aluminum and practice, practice, practice.
(If there is a sportair workshop in your area, go take the course for a
real confidence builder.)
- Buy a few handfuls of super-long rivets (both 3/32" and 1/8", universal
and flush head) and a rivet cutter. Then you can make rivets any length yo
u
need on demand. Better to order this now than to wait until you need
this...
Read this thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=59436<http://www.v
ansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=59436&page=2>
Chris
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 7:44 PM, Tony Woods <twoods@sesa.af> wrote:
> Thanks heaps guys! That is a huge help to my confidence! J
>
>
> Woodsie
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly McMullen
> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2010 2:09 p.m.
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: rivets...
>
>
> The plans for the empenage tell you how Vans think you should rivet a par
t,
> including when back riveting is appropriate. Later sections leave that up
to
> your experience. If you are using bucking bar with rivet gun on the
> manufactured head, then yes the shop head is formed against the bucking b
ar.
> In back riveting the shop head is formed by the rivet gun. In some cases
you
> can back rivet with a large round bucking bar, such as
> http://www.averytools.com/pc-649-19-bucking-bar.aspx for places where you
> can't lay the sheet metal against the back rivet plate.
> If I recall correctly, some of the vertical stab is much easier to do wit
h
> an assistant holding the bucking bar.
>
> On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Tony Woods <twoods@sesa.af> wrote:
>
> OK ' I'm not going to drive any rivets until I have the technique sorte
d
> out. I have a good 3x gun and tungsten bucking bar. I got the whole too
l
> kit from PlaneTools, so have back-riveting sets etc etc. Much of it I'm
> still looking at and wondering what it does, but looking forward to findi
ng
> out! The EAA videos are excellent.
>
>
> OK, so for places like the inside structure of the VS., I use the gun on
> the outside of the structure as it clearly won't fit inside, and hold a
> bucking bar against the rivet tail, inside the structure. The rivet head
is
> formed against the bucking bar right?
>
>
> Tony
>
> New Zealand
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *
> rwendell@hydro-splash.com
> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2010 4:42 a.m.
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: rivets...
>
>
> Go to the EAA website and watch the videos very helpful
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> ------------------------------
>
> *From: *"Tony Woods" <twoods@sesa.af>
>
> *Sender: *owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>
> *Date: *Thu, 1 Jul 2010 19:23:33 +1200
>
> *To: *<rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> *ReplyTo: *rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> *Subject: *RV10-List: rivets...
>
>
> Ok.=C2- I worked out how to use the rivet squeezer, and have built
my VS
> = skeleton.=C2- So far so good. =C2-=C2-Now I=
80=99m fixing the
> skin, and wanted to = pause to get a few words of advice on how I rivet
into
> areas where=C2- I can't use the = squeezer.=C2- OK =
80=93 Enter the
> mysterious bucking bar right?=C2- I guess I place this = bucking
bar
> against the exterior skin, a flat tungsten surface, and then reach = in
side
> the VS to use the rivet gun to hammer the protruding stub and form the
> head?
>
>
> Man, do I sound like = a newbee yet?
>
>
> Tony
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> ~
> ------------------------------
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
>
===========
=========
> =
===========
> *
>
>
--
Chris
Message 2
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If you go on YouTube and search "riveting" you will find many good instructional
videos...
Cheers
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD Flying
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303459#303459
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Bob, I know everyone is capable, but why reinvent the wheel.... besides, if
the parkers are seeing the same signs, it should be easier for them.
--- On Fri, 6/25/10, bcondrey <bob.condrey@baesystems.com> wrote:
From: bcondrey <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
Just bumping this thread because AirVenture is getting close.- The FAQs,
chart with info for those that have contacted me and other misc stuff is li
nked from: http://www.myrv10.com/osh/
There are about a dozen of us so far - usually winds up being 25-30 and mos
t of the time about half are in the last week.- Looks like we're on track
for a last minute scramble again...
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302539#302539
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
N46007 will be there from 7/25 to 7/28 in HBC. Since we are tent camping
it seemed more reasonable to go to HBC rather than pay for a number of
unused nights with the group in Scholler. We will see you at the 10
headquarters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
Bob, I know everyone is capable, but why reinvent the wheel....
besides, if the parkers are seeing the same signs, it should be easier
for them.
--- On Fri, 6/25/10, bcondrey <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
wrote:
From: bcondrey <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Friday, June 25, 2010, 7:05 PM
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Just bumping this thread because AirVenture is getting close.
The FAQs, chart with info for those that have contacted me and other
misc stuff is linked from: http://www.myrv10.com/osh/
There are about a dozen of us so far - usually winds up being
25-30 and most of the time about half are in the last week. Looks like
we're on track for a last minute scramble again...
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302539#30253om/Navigator?RV
10-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?
- MATRONICS WEB FORUM; -Matt Dralle, List
Admin=========
Message 5
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I bought the ISHM tool kit for the RV -10 it had everything including a hand
squeezer and a pneumatic squeezer. I have added a lot more # 3 clecos when
I got to the emp in the build process. They are a great company to deal
with.
John G. Cumins
40864 emp fiberglassing the HZ stab tips and Vert stab tips.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivets...
FYI -- I just looked over the Isham tool kit, and have a couple of comments:
- it doesn't come with a hand squeezer. You may be able to use the
pneumatic squeezer for everything, but personally I like the level of
control a hand-squeezer gives me. (Aka, it takes more deliberate effort to
make a "whoops" for my beginner skills.) I've found that I can use most any
hand squeezer for 3/32" rivets, but I can only really hand-squeeze 1/8"
rivets using the Cleveland Main Squeeze. (The Avery one and other cheaper
ones don't have enough leverage for me.)
- I just started my RV-10 horizontal stabilizer, and realized I needed to
order more 3/32" clecos. I had 300, now I have 500. (The RV-10 upgrade
Isham offers bumps you up to 500 clecos, so if you have that you are
golden.)
- don't trust the rivet lengths given by Van's. Check the length with a
rivet gauge before setting them. (Drilling them out after if they are too
short is _painful_!)
- the toolbox is a good project to learn on. But you may find yourself
wanting to do more before your riveting feels "perfect". Either buy and
build more toolboxes, buy the sportair practice kit (you assemble a small
wing segment), or get some scrap aluminum and practice, practice, practice.
(If there is a sportair workshop in your area, go take the course for a real
confidence builder.)
- Buy a few handfuls of super-long rivets (both 3/32" and 1/8", universal
and flush head) and a rivet cutter. Then you can make rivets any length you
need on demand. Better to order this now than to wait until you need
this...
Read this thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=59436
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=59436&page=2>
Chris
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 7:44 PM, Tony Woods <twoods@sesa.af> wrote:
Thanks heaps guys! That is a huge help to my confidence! J
Woodsie
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, 2 July 2010 2:09 p.m.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivets...
The plans for the empenage tell you how Vans think you should rivet a part,
including when back riveting is appropriate. Later sections leave that up to
your experience. If you are using bucking bar with rivet gun on the
manufactured head, then yes the shop head is formed against the bucking bar.
In back riveting the shop head is formed by the rivet gun. In some cases you
can back rivet with a large round bucking bar, such as
http://www.averytools.com/pc-649-19-bucking-bar.aspx for places where you
can't lay the sheet metal against the back rivet plate.
If I recall correctly, some of the vertical stab is much easier to do with
an assistant holding the bucking bar.
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Tony Woods <twoods@sesa.af> wrote:
OK - I'm not going to drive any rivets until I have the technique sorted
out. I have a good 3x gun and tungsten bucking bar. I got the whole tool
kit from PlaneTools, so have back-riveting sets etc etc. Much of it I'm
still looking at and wondering what it does, but looking forward to finding
out! The EAA videos are excellent.
OK, so for places like the inside structure of the VS., I use the gun on the
outside of the structure as it clearly won't fit inside, and hold a bucking
bar against the rivet tail, inside the structure. The rivet head is formed
against the bucking bar right?
Tony
New Zealand
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rwendell@hydro-splash.com
Sent: Friday, 2 July 2010 4:42 a.m.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivets...
Go to the EAA website and watch the videos very helpful
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
_____
From: "Tony Woods" <twoods@sesa.af>
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: rivets...
Ok.=C2- I worked out how to use the rivet squeezer, and have built my VS
skeleton.=C2- So far so good. =C2-=C2-Now I=99m fixing the skin,
and wanted to = pause to get a few words of advice on how I rivet into areas
where=C2- I can't use the = squeezer.=C2- OK =93 Enter the
mysterious bucking bar right?=C2- I guess I place this = bucking bar
against the exterior skin, a flat tungsten surface, and then reach = inside
the VS to use the rivet gun to hammer the protruding stub and form the
head?
Man, do I sound like = a newbee yet?
Tony =
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
~
_____
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
========
=
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Chris
Message 6
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For those that went the McMaster door seal route...
I just put the seals on for the first time. As many else have experienced,
a perfect fitting door is no longer perfect fitting after putting on the
seals. The door is sitting proud only on the top of the door. Once I
put the hinges on the door, will compression remedy this issue or will I
need to figure out another solution?
I also have the problem at the bottom of the door where there is a gap on
the forward section of the door. That should just be a straight forward
solution of building the rain gutter back up until it's flush along the
entire bottom.
Thanks,
bob
Message 7
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Bob;
I had to cut mine back some, in fact I had to drop the edge down about
1/4 "" to make it work. You're just about done..... :-) .
Dr Fred
515 FW
See you'all at OSH.
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> For those that went the McMaster door seal route..
>
> I just put the seals on for the first time. As many else have
> experienced, a perfect fitting door is no longer perfect fitting after
> putting on the seals. The door is sitting proud only on the top of the
> door. Once I put the hinges on the door, will compression remedy this
> issue or will I need to figure out another solution?
>
> I also have the problem at the bottom of the door where there is a gap
> on the forward section of the door. That should just be a straight
> forward solution of building the rain gutter back up until its flush
> along the entire bottom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> bob
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Don't disagree - in fact, some people have done this the last couple years.
The Scholler group simply grew from the desire of people that were going
to camp in Scholler anyway to be together. I would hope and encourage thos
e that aren't camped there to stop by.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
N46007 will be there from 7/25 to 7/28 in HBC. Since we are tent camping it
seemed more reasonable to go to HBC rather than pay for a number of unused
nights with the group in Scholler. We will see you at the 10 headquarters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald<mailto:building_partner@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
Bob, I know everyone is capable, but why reinvent the wheel.... besides, if
the parkers are seeing the same signs, it should be easier for them.
--- On Fri, 6/25/10, bcondrey <bob.condrey@baesystems.com<mailto:bob.condre
y@baesystems.com>> wrote:
From: bcondrey <bob.condrey@baesystems.com<mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.co
m>>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
p://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bob.condrey@baesystems.com>>
Just bumping this thread because AirVenture is getting close. The FAQs, ch
art with info for those that have contacted me and other misc stuff is link
ed from: http://www.myrv10.com/osh/
There are about a dozen of us so far - usually winds up being 25-30 and mos
t of the time about half are in the last week. Looks like we're on track f
or a last minute scramble again...
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302539#30253om/Navigator?RV10
-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator? - M
ATRONICS WEB FORUM; -Matt Dralle, List Admin=====
====
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302539#302539>
Message 9
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You need to get that bulge up top resolved if you don't it will impact
the bottom of the door. I ended up sanding (a whole lot since I have the
Vans seals) to get the top more flush once I did that my doors closed
and I worked from there. Having the hinge force it down a little may be
fine but I would fix it so that it really is minimal and without much
resistance
get the door to fit first than take care of the gaps everywhere.
Best of success
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 11:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Seals
For those that went the McMaster door seal route...
I just put the seals on for the first time. As many else have
experienced, a perfect fitting door is no longer perfect fitting after
putting on the seals. The door is sitting proud only on the top of the
door. Once I put the hinges on the door, will compression remedy this
issue or will I need to figure out another solution?
I also have the problem at the bottom of the door where there is a gap
on the forward section of the door. That should just be a straight
forward solution of building the rain gutter back up until it's flush
along the entire bottom.
Thanks,
bob
Message 10
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| Subject: | AC cooling chest |
Here are some pictures of this latest project in case others want to try it. The basic idea is from http://www.instructables.com/id/Portable-12V-Air-Conditioner---Cheap-and-easy!/ (thanks again Pascal)
I started with a new Igloo cooler (48 qt. I think) from Walmart ($20) because it
fits the 12" baggage door. A heater core from the junk yard (out of an Accord,
I think), two new fans NIDEC VA450DC - rated at 3.3 amps, 220 CFM - server
fans I think, they REALLY blow ( I have some extras I'll sell for $10 ea. if
anyone is interested), a bilge pump, Atwood 500 (Walmart $17), dryer 4"X8' vent
hoses, two quick connect gizmos for dryer hoses from Home Depot modified and
attached to the top of the fans so that the hoses can be quickly disconnected
for easy in and out of the cooler, and various polyurethane caulk, 5/8 ID vinyl
tubing - Home Depot, switch from Radio Shack, wire, wire nuts, etc. Done!
It is assembled, fits in the baggage door, fans blow, pump pumps, but I'll wait
until the caulk sets further to anchor the pump before I try it out with ice
and water.
I went ahead and drilled 1/2" holes all around the top of the cooler so that the
lid can stay closed. I like this design cuz it is not just blowing air over
ice -- instead, it is actually pulling cabin air over the heat exchanger which
pulls humidity out of the cabin. The on/off button thumb switch is mounted
in grip I turned out of some scrap walnut I had around, and the cord is long enough
to sit on the tunnel between the front seats so you can turn it on after
the engine is started, then turn it off when you reach altitude and save your
ice for when you're back in the heat.
Should be minimal busy work throwing a bag of ice in it. The return hose from
the heat exchanger is about 5' long coiled in the chest so that you can just hang
it out the door and pump the water out when you're done.
I think the amp ratings are high, cuz the male accessory plug (also from Radio
Shack) has a built in 7.5 amp fuse that doesn't blow with the two 3.3a fans and
the 2.5a pump. Probably would run the battery down if left running too long
without the engine running. It plugs into the female socket I installed to charge
the battery in the same position that Tim put his in the rear baggage bulkhead.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303506#303506
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Message 11
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| Subject: | N210KH into phase II |
Just completed the 40 hours of phase I flying. The Airflow air conditioning was
a life saver in Oklahoma. Made the test flights a lot more comfortable. The
MT governor was surging the Aero Composite prop, so sent it to Florida to be
updated. Pulled the exhaust off for ceramic coating. Should reduce the heat
in the cowling. The Advanced Flight System engine monitor would show a 20 degree
oil temp rise with the air conditioning fan on and 10 more if the landing
lights were on. Everything is grounded at a central point. Been talking to
Advanced about this, haven't come up with a solution yet. Anyone else had this
problem?
See you at Oshkosh...Greg
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
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Message 12
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| Subject: | AC cooling chest |
Fantastic write-up, thanks Lew!
Marcus
40286
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 3:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AC cooling chest
Here are some pictures of this latest project in case others want to try it.
The basic idea is from
http://www.instructables.com/id/Portable-12V-Air-Conditioner---Cheap-and-eas
y!/ (thanks again Pascal)
I started with a new Igloo cooler (48 qt. I think) from Walmart ($20)
because it fits the 12" baggage door. A heater core from the junk yard (out
of an Accord, I think), two new fans NIDEC VA450DC - rated at 3.3 amps, 220
CFM - server fans I think, they REALLY blow ( I have some extras I'll sell
for $10 ea. if anyone is interested), a bilge pump, Atwood 500 (Walmart
$17), dryer 4"X8' vent hoses, two quick connect gizmos for dryer hoses from
Home Depot modified and attached to the top of the fans so that the hoses
can be quickly disconnected for easy in and out of the cooler, and various
polyurethane caulk, 5/8 ID vinyl tubing - Home Depot, switch from Radio
Shack, wire, wire nuts, etc. Done!
It is assembled, fits in the baggage door, fans blow, pump pumps, but I'll
wait until the caulk sets further to anchor the pump before I try it out
with ice and water.
I went ahead and drilled 1/2" holes all around the top of the cooler so that
the lid can stay closed. I like this design cuz it is not just blowing air
over ice -- instead, it is actually pulling cabin air over the heat
exchanger which pulls humidity out of the cabin. The on/off button thumb
switch is mounted in grip I turned out of some scrap walnut I had around,
and the cord is long enough to sit on the tunnel between the front seats so
you can turn it on after the engine is started, then turn it off when you
reach altitude and save your ice for when you're back in the heat.
Should be minimal busy work throwing a bag of ice in it. The return hose
from the heat exchanger is about 5' long coiled in the chest so that you can
just hang it out the door and pump the water out when you're done.
I think the amp ratings are high, cuz the male accessory plug (also from
Radio Shack) has a built in 7.5 amp fuse that doesn't blow with the two 3.3a
fans and the 2.5a pump. Probably would run the battery down if left running
too long without the engine running. It plugs into the female socket I
installed to charge the battery in the same position that Tim put his in the
rear baggage bulkhead.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: AC cooling chest |
Good work Lew. I will probably do something similiar after our -10 is complete.
It won't do much for humidity because your condensate will drip off of cold 32-40F
coil right back into ice bath then reevaporate into the air but cold moist
air will still feel better than hot moist air. You could seal ice/water bath
chamber from cabin air then run condensate into a pan then overboard...now that
would remove humidity. If you needed a little cooler evaporator temperature
just add some salt or your favorite alcohol to the ice. Have fun.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-
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| Subject: | OSH Motorhome Rental |
Somebody was asking about places to rent campers/RVs for OSH a while back. A few years ago we rented one from this place http://www.elverrv.com/rental.htm
It's a small outfit and is in Madison so you might give them a call.
Bob
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| Subject: | Prop Governor cable routing |
I am making some firewall forward modifications involving my FlightLine AC air
conditioning system. It looks like I might need to reroute the prop governor cable
from the bottom of the engine and run it over the top. Has anybody done this
and if so, do you have any photo's or words of wisdom? I am particularly interested
in how you anchor the cable on the topside.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor cable routing |
David,
I have the Airflow systems a/c which uses an over the top of the engine cable to govenor (MT unit from Van's in my case). I believe it's a generic bracket from Van's but you can call the owner Bill Genevro to order the exact one (949-218-9701) http://www.airflow-systems.com
Feel free to give me a call at 561-seven zero two -5456.
Tom Hanaway
rv-10
last 10%
Boynton Beach, FL
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Message 17
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Since Deems posted the other day that I had solved the James Cowl-high te
mperature problem-by increasing the inlet size I have received several in
quiries-for more information.- I can only assume that there-are many
-others who are experiencing high cylinder and oil temperatures particula
rly with the James Cowl.=0AFirst let me explain my particular setup because
each situation is different and your mileage may vary.=0AI have a new expe
rimental IO-540 built by Lycon with Cold Air Induction 10-1 compression, po
rted and-flow balanced-with a single Light Speed Ignition.- This tran
slates into a lot more H.P.-and HEAT-than a stock install.- =0AInitia
l flight tests were performed with a-stock James Cowl (4.5" inlets) with
-my own-induction air inlet and filter air box design.=0AMy initial fli
ght testing resulted in cylinder temps. in the 440 range and oil temps in t
he 220 range.--This was in relatively cool weather (averaging 65 F) so
the-airplane was basically unusable.- I embarked on a flight test progr
am of measuring the differential pressure at-seven different locations un
der the cowl.- With knowledge gained I made numerous modifications to the
inlets, plenum, inlet ramps and exit ramp, retested and modified retested,
etc., etc..--This consumed 27 flight hours and 4 months of work.--
The induction inlet and filter air box design was not modified since I was
seeing 1"+ boost in M.P. with the original design.=0AThe results are very s
atisfying with cylinder temps. now-averaging 350-and oil temps. averagi
ng 180 or below.- I have even had to install an oil cooler damper to keep
the oil temps. above 180 in cruise.- -It was all a matter of balancing
the inlet area, plenum size, and exit area to achieve the greatest total p
lenum pressure and greatest differential pressure between the plenum and ex
it with the minimum inlet size.- The-final inlet size is-6" diameter
which-is larger than the stock James inlets but still significantly small
er in area than stock Vans inlets yet I'm effectively and efficiently cooli
ng an engine with 20% more H.P. than stock.- The total plenum pressure we
nt from-6" to13"-so LOP operation-should now be possible without inst
alling turbo rails as many have done.=0AI mention all this to show it is po
ssible to cool the beast without resorting to unconventional an unsightly o
ptions.- It is also important to understand that while "size does matter"
- there is a lot more to it than just increasing the inlet size.- =0AI
will be at Arlington and Oshkosh and will be more than happy to discuss any
of the particulars.- I have attached a few pictures to help show the-m
odifications made and final outcome.=0A-=0A-=0A=0A-=0AAlan Bikle=0AAI
RFLOW TECHNOLOGY=0A1586 Moffett Street Ste. E=0ASalinas, CA. 93905=0ATel: 8
31-320-0193 =0A
Message 18
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Alan,
So no change to the outlet area, no under cowl louvers, even
cooling across all cylinders?
It sure would be nice to have a mold of that Plenum.
BTW thank you for sharing! Awesome work.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Alan Bikle
*Sent:* Friday, July 02, 2010 8:32 PM
*To:* RV-10 list
*Subject:* RV10-List: Cowl
Since Deems posted the other day that I had solved the James Cowl high
temperature problem by increasing the inlet size I have received several
inquiries for more information. I can only assume that there are
many others who are experiencing high cylinder and oil temperatures
particularly with the James Cowl.
First let me explain my particular setup because each situation is different
and your mileage may vary.
I have a new experimental IO-540 built by Lycon with Cold Air Induction 10-1
compression, ported and flow balanced with a single Light Speed Ignition.
This translates into a lot more H.P. and HEAT than a stock install.
Initial flight tests were performed with a stock James Cowl (4.5" inlets)
with my own induction air inlet and filter air box design.
My initial flight testing resulted in cylinder temps. in the 440 range and
oil temps in the 220 range. This was in relatively cool weather (averaging
65 F) so the airplane was basically unusable. I embarked on a flight test
program of measuring the differential pressure at seven different locations
under the cowl. With knowledge gained I made numerous modifications to the
inlets, plenum, inlet ramps and exit ramp, retested and modified retested,
etc., etc.. This consumed 27 flight hours and 4 months of work. The
induction inlet and filter air box design was not modified since I was
seeing 1"+ boost in M.P. with the original design.
The results are very satisfying with cylinder temps. now averaging 350 and
oil temps. averaging 180 or below. I have even had to install an oil cooler
damper to keep the oil temps. above 180 in cruise. It was all a matter of
balancing the inlet area, plenum size, and exit area to achieve the greatest
total plenum pressure and greatest differential pressure between the plenum
and exit with the minimum inlet size. The final inlet size is 6" diameter
which is larger than the stock James inlets but still significantly smaller
in area than stock Vans inlets yet I'm effectively and efficiently cooling
an engine with 20% more H.P. than stock. The total plenum pressure went
from 6" to13" so LOP operation should now be possible without installing
turbo rails as many have done.
I mention all this to show it is possible to cool the beast without
resorting to unconventional an unsightly options. It is also important to
understand that while "size does matter" there is a lot more to it than
just increasing the inlet size.
I will be at Arlington and Oshkosh and will be more than happy to discuss
any of the particulars. I have attached a few pictures to help show
the modifications made and final outcome.
Alan Bikle
AIRFLOW TECHNOLOGY
1586 Moffett Street Ste. E
Salinas, CA. 93905
Tel: 831-320-0193
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