Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Masys, Daniel R)
2. 06:10 AM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (dmaib@me.com)
3. 06:12 AM - Wing Kit Decisions (Brent P. Humphreys)
4. 06:24 AM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (johngoodman)
5. 06:24 AM - Re: Wing Kit Decisions (Rene Felker)
6. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Linn Walters)
7. 07:13 AM - Re: Wing Kit Decisions (Kelly McMullen)
8. 07:32 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Don McDonald)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
10. 07:59 AM - Re: Wing Kit Decisions (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
11. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Phillip Perry)
12. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
13. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (DLM)
14. 08:36 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (DLM)
15. 09:00 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Linn Walters)
16. 09:15 AM - fire (DLM)
17. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Pascal)
18. 09:44 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
19. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Tim Olson)
20. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
21. 10:40 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Pascal)
22. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (pilotdds@aol.com)
23. 11:38 AM - Overhead Console Vents (Michael Kraus)
24. 11:41 AM - Re: Overhead Console Vents (Geoff Combs)
25. 12:02 PM - Re: Wing Kit Decisions (Brent P. Humphreys)
26. 12:29 PM - Re: Wing Kit Decisions (rv10flyer)
27. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
28. 02:07 PM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Scott Schmidt)
29. 06:49 PM - Re: Overhead Console Vents (rvdave)
30. 07:20 PM - Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale (zackrv8)
31. 07:25 PM - Re: Re: Overhead Console Vents (Bob Leffler)
32. 07:41 PM - Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale (John Gonzalez)
33. 08:08 PM - Re: Overhead Console Vents (rvdave)
34. 08:25 PM - Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale (Rick)
35. 09:40 PM - Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale (ddddsp1@juno.com)
36. 09:55 PM - Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale (Scott Schmidt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Now coming up on 400 hour TT, and loving this bird a little more each time I learn
something new about it:
Do differently:
1. Install the Safe-Air1 auxiliary tanks during the initial build. A pain after
the wing is painted, and they are the single most dramatic thing for expanding
cross country options.
Do the same:
1. Keep it light. Mine came in at 1525 and is no showplane but a great performer.
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD flying
RV-12 N122LD engine installation
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
I knew I would think of some other things!
I agree with Dr. Fred about the Matco front axle. Do it during the build.
I agree with Mike about:
Stainless steel heated air box
Insulated firewall
I used the iflyrv10 billet door pin blocks and they are very nice.
Alex D.'s high capacity oil cooler.
I highly recommend rudder pedal extensions sold by mlskunkworks, Blue Sky Aviation,
and others.
Alex D's Blue Sky sun visors.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308180#308180
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wing Kit Decisions |
I am about to purchase a wing kit from another builder. I am getting my
workspace ready, and also looking into the build process, and any
decisions I need to make before closing up the wings. So, I have a few
questions for those that have gone before.
1. What size table/jig did you use for building the wings? I am a
little space constrained, so I am wondering what size table I need, or
if I would be better off doing a fixed stand like the jigs some of the
other RV types use for construction.
2. What decisions do I need to make for the wing build?
a. Aileron Trim
b. Extended range tanks (SafeAir1)
c. Select Autopilot and Servos
d. Lighting type
Any other advice on options I should be considering at this point in the
build would be appreciated. Thanks
--
Brent Humphreys
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
I'm close to flying but not there yet, so I can only comment on building issues.
I would put more conduit in for wiring, and try to find a smooth inner wall - Van's
conduit is ribbed and is difficult to run additional wires through.
My two cents,
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308188#308188
Message 5
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| Subject: | Wing Kit Decisions |
I guilt mine on two fold up lawn tables (8') from Costco, then in the wing
stand. The spar is over 12 feet, but you could do it on only one table of
that size.
2.a..did mine after the wing was on the airplane, not too hard, but wish I
would have done it right after I put the bottom skin on.
2.b...did not do that, no opinion
2.c..put mine in after the wing was on the plane...no problems...would be
easier off the plane.
2.d...used the standard kit form Vans, and thus no problem doing it anytime
before paint.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brent P.
Humphreys
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Kit Decisions
I am about to purchase a wing kit from another builder. I am getting my
workspace ready, and also looking into the build process, and any decisions
I need to make before closing up the wings. So, I have a few questions for
those that have gone before.
1. What size table/jig did you use for building the wings? I am a
little space constrained, so I am wondering what size table I need, or if I
would be better off doing a fixed stand like the jigs some of the other RV
types use for construction.
2. What decisions do I need to make for the wing build?
a. Aileron Trim
b. Extended range tanks (SafeAir1)
c. Select Autopilot and Servos
d. Lighting type
Any other advice on options I should be considering at this point in the
build would be appreciated. Thanks
--
Brent Humphreys
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Tie a piece of paper towel on the end of your pull string and tape the
other end next to the conduit. Stick it in one end of the conduit and
your shop vac in the other. If you didn't tape the free end of the pull
string down you might find all of it in the shop vac. ;-)
Linn
johngoodman wrote:
>
> I'm close to flying but not there yet, so I can only comment on building issues.
>
> I would put more conduit in for wiring, and try to find a smooth inner wall -
Van's conduit is ribbed and is difficult to run additional wires through.
>
> My two cents,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308188#308188
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Kit Decisions |
While working on my QB wings I found 1 standard EAA workbench
adequate, 2 of them better, just for more support.
2. Aileron trim can be deferred for a long time, because it attaches
to the first inspection plate and while probably easier while the
control tube can be removed, I'm not sure it is needed vs letting
autopilot handle it. So I will probably defer until after flying.
Extended range tanks may affect that decision, with the weight out at
wing tips.
Autopilot servo, (only one goes in one wing) again will be at access
panel where the aileron rocker is installed to transfer motion
direction. You will want to consider conduit for the wing that will
get that servo to ease pulling the wires. You don't have to make any
lighting decisions until ready to put the wing tips on, as long as you
pulled wires for them before closing bottom of the wings.
For storage and some work tasks, the vertical stands are a real help.
Especially with wheels. You really want a helper to transfer wings
from work bench to stand. Keep in mind that the wings are built long
before they get installed on the fuselage, and you need a safe place
to store them. If you do the stall warning vane, it is at risk unless
the wings are in a stand. You really don't want the leading edges
supporting the whole wing leaning against a wall, so that they can be
bumped and knocked over.
On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 6:11 AM, Brent P. Humphreys
<bhumphreys@stonetek.com> wrote:
> 1. What size table/jig did you use for building the wings? I am a
> little space constrained, so I am wondering what size table I need, or if I
> would be better off doing a fixed stand like the jigs some of the other RV
> types use for construction.
>
> 2. What decisions do I need to make for the wing build?
>
> a. Aileron Trim
>
> b. Extended range tanks (SafeAir1)
>
> c. Select Autopilot and Servos
>
> d. Lighting type
>
>
> Any other advice on options I should be considering at this point in the
> build would be appreciated. Thanks
>
> --
>
> Brent Humphreys
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
See below
--- On Tue, 8/10/10, johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
I'm close to flying but not there yet, so I can only comment on building is
sues.
I would put more conduit in for wiring, and try to find a smooth inner wall
- Van's conduit is ribbed and is difficult to run additional wires through
.
I used sprinkler drip system pipe... comes in several diameters, smooth on
outside and inside, cheap, and light.... can be locked into place by using
1/2 of a union.
Don
My two cents,
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308188#308188
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who
hasn't insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your
experience with an un-insulated firewall?
I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is
there anything else?
Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
AirMike wrote:
>
> Do different:
> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates that I
did over the steps.
> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane likes
to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>
> Glad I did:
> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32 mos)
> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high capacity
oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
> 3. Insulate the firewall
> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal after you
are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs. Most seem to
run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - finally done
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wing Kit Decisions |
You can use an 8' table easily because the spar is a lot heavier on the inb
oard end. Storage is best done using a stand to hold them vertical. You c
an also keep them in that stand when installing the bottom skin.
No real decisions during the build. It want to defer wiring it will be eas
ier to install conduit running the length of the wings with breaks at the a
ccess panels.
- Aileron trim: easily installed when complete. Servo mounts to i
nboard inspection panel and attaches to control tube with 2 springs (clips
get attached to tube with pulled rivets).
- Extended range tanks: can't comment on install but consider your
mission. An RV-10 has tremendous range/duration especially running LOP.
There are certainly a few that NEED extended range tanks but most of us app
reciate a break after flying 3-4 hours (running 50 LOP you'll have 5+ hours
endurance).
- Autopilot servo: servo will be specific to the AP you select so
wait until you've settled on the AP decision. Roll servo will mount in the
bay with the outboard inspection panel and attach to the aileron bellcrank
. Probably a little easier to install before closing up the wing but not a
big deal to do afterward.
- Lighting type: decision can be deferred. Wiring will go to the
wingtips so conduit will make it easy to install later. If you're going to
do leading edge (vs. wingtip) landing lights you might consider doing the
mechanical install before closing everything up. Plenty of people have don
e it after though without issue.
One thing not mentioned yet is heated pitot. If you're going to use a heat
ed pitot tube you'll need a mount for it. Most people use the Gretz type m
ount which will need to be installed before attaching the bottom skin. The
re's a doubler, attachment to a rib, and hole to be cut in the bottom skin
that would be difficult to do after closing up.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Brent P. Humphreys
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 8:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Kit Decisions
I am about to purchase a wing kit from another builder. I am getting my wo
rkspace ready, and also looking into the build process, and any decisions I
need to make before closing up the wings. So, I have a few questions for
those that have gone before.
1. What size table/jig did you use for building the wings? I am a li
ttle space constrained, so I am wondering what size table I need, or if I w
ould be better off doing a fixed stand like the jigs some of the other RV t
ypes use for construction.
2. What decisions do I need to make for the wing build?
a. Aileron Trim
b. Extended range tanks (SafeAir1)
c. Select Autopilot and Servos
d. Lighting type
Any other advice on options I should be considering at this point in the bu
ild would be appreciated. Thanks
--
Brent Humphreys
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Bill "superfil is good" Watson,
Besides fire, the ss boxes have baffles to prevent any hot air from leaking
by the doors and into the scat tubing...
Phil
On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn't
> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experience
> with an un-insulated firewall?
>
> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is there
> anything else?
>
> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>
> AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> Do different:
>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>> that I did over the steps.
>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>
>> Glad I did:
>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32 mos)
>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high
>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs.
>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Bill - a couple of issues with the stock heat boxes:
- they're aluminum which partially defeats the purpose of having a stainless steel
firewall since they're the only thing between the cabin and a pair of 2" holes.
- the hinges on the stock aluminum boxes are sloppy and are at least part of the
legendary "hot tunnel" issue. Air from the opposite side SCAT causes the flapper
to lift on the hinge side and allow hot air in even if the flapper is closed.
You won't feel flow but will get hot air in there.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who
hasn't insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your
experience with an un-insulated firewall?
I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is
there anything else?
Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
AirMike wrote:
>
> Do different:
> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates that I
did over the steps.
> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane likes
to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>
> Glad I did:
> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32 mos)
> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high capacity
oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
> 3. Insulate the firewall
> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal after you
are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs. Most seem to
run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - finally done
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Although the SS airbox will buy some additional time (probably not enough to
land and exit), a better solution to the fire problem might be fire bottle.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn't
> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experience
> with an un-insulated firewall?
>
> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is there
> anything else?
>
> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>
> AirMike wrote:
>>
>> Do different:
>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>> that I did over the steps.
>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>
>> Glad I did:
>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>> mos)
>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high
>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs.
>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
In any case check the chemical composition of the material and any gas
given off while hot or burning
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
See below
--- On Tue, 8/10/10, johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
wrote:
From: johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 6:23 AM
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I'm close to flying but not there yet, so I can only comment
on building issues.
I would put more conduit in for wiring, and try to find a
smooth inner wall - Van's conduit is ribbed and is difficult to run
additional wires through.
I used sprinkler drip system pipe... comes in several
diameters, smooth on outside and inside, cheap, and light.... can be
locked into place by using 1/2 of a union.
Don
My two cents,
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=atronics.com/Navigator?RV10
-List" sp;--> http://f= - List Contributionsp;
&bsp;-->
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
My good buddy and RV-10 builder optede for the SS heat boxes. I didn't
..... yet.
He had some thin red silicone sheet that he bonded to the flapper to
seal the hole when closed. I did the same (he gave me enough to do
mine) bonding the sheet to the flapper with red silicone from the tube
and closing the flapper while the silicone cured.
I'm into fire prevention (I know it's impossible to get it 100%) rather
than fire mitigation.
Linn
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> Bill - a couple of issues with the stock heat boxes:
> - they're aluminum which partially defeats the purpose of having a stainless
steel firewall since they're the only thing between the cabin and a pair of 2"
holes.
> - the hinges on the stock aluminum boxes are sloppy and are at least part of
the legendary "hot tunnel" issue. Air from the opposite side SCAT causes the
flapper to lift on the hinge side and allow hot air in even if the flapper is
closed. You won't feel flow but will get hot air in there.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 N442PM
>
Message 16
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http://www.stroudsafety.com/HalonSystems.html
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
The insulation, I believe is for heat dissipation, as well as maybe noise? I
went with a spray on noise than ceramic insulation, I can tell you that the
"bang test" where I hit the firewall with a wood block before and after the
spray on was rather significant, I also grabbed a heat lamp and let it sit
for 5 minutes pretty close to the firewall, the heat was hard to touch for a
few seconds on the fore side and bearable on the aft side with the
insulation, so it must do something.
I have the plane innovation heat vents, I don't know if Paul stuck with the
same design as mine has, as I know he is always doing more fire tests that
result in his needing the fire crew to come out when the neighbors see
smoke (he takes the smoke and fire testing very seriously) but mine
literally blocks any forced air to come into the vents unless the doors are
opened a little bit. I grabbed a heat gun and shot it through the SCAT tube
and had someone tell me when they felt any heat at the cabin side vent
(without a SCAT tube installed) no heat at all until the vent was pulled,
there is no doubt they are worth the money. I don't know what they will do
for smoke blockage, but whatever it is, it is far better than the aluminum
vents that are part of the kit.
Skip the Vans vents and get the Plane innovations one, they may save you
extra work with the tunnel heat issue, I can confirm that when I actually
fly but based on my limited heat gun testing I can't see how there would be
a tunnel issue with the vents closed.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn't
> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experience
> with an un-insulated firewall?
>
> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is there
> anything else?
>
> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>
> AirMike wrote:
>>
>> Do different:
>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>> that I did over the steps.
>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>
>> Glad I did:
>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>> mos)
>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high
>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs.
>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect the blower
side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the shop-vac and observe
both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side and a buildup along the
inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high velocity air causes the opposite
side flapper to lift at the hinge.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
The insulation, I believe is for heat dissipation, as well as maybe noise? I
went with a spray on noise than ceramic insulation, I can tell you that the
"bang test" where I hit the firewall with a wood block before and after the
spray on was rather significant, I also grabbed a heat lamp and let it sit
for 5 minutes pretty close to the firewall, the heat was hard to touch for a
few seconds on the fore side and bearable on the aft side with the
insulation, so it must do something.
I have the plane innovation heat vents, I don't know if Paul stuck with the
same design as mine has, as I know he is always doing more fire tests that
result in his needing the fire crew to come out when the neighbors see
smoke (he takes the smoke and fire testing very seriously) but mine
literally blocks any forced air to come into the vents unless the doors are
opened a little bit. I grabbed a heat gun and shot it through the SCAT tube
and had someone tell me when they felt any heat at the cabin side vent
(without a SCAT tube installed) no heat at all until the vent was pulled,
there is no doubt they are worth the money. I don't know what they will do
for smoke blockage, but whatever it is, it is far better than the aluminum
vents that are part of the kit.
Skip the Vans vents and get the Plane innovations one, they may save you
extra work with the tunnel heat issue, I can confirm that when I actually
fly but based on my limited heat gun testing I can't see how there would be
a tunnel issue with the vents closed.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn't
> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experience
> with an un-insulated firewall?
>
> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is there
> anything else?
>
> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>
> AirMike wrote:
>>
>> Do different:
>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>> that I did over the steps.
>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>
>> Glad I did:
>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>> mos)
>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high
>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs.
>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Does that happen if you blow air into BOTH sides simultaneously? I can easily
see it if it blows one side...both sides at the same time is harder to understand.
Tim
On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:43 AM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
wrote:
>
> A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect the blower
side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the shop-vac and observe
both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side and a buildup along
the inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high velocity air causes the opposite
side flapper to lift at the hinge.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 11:18 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
>
>
> The insulation, I believe is for heat dissipation, as well as maybe noise? I
> went with a spray on noise than ceramic insulation, I can tell you that the
> "bang test" where I hit the firewall with a wood block before and after the
> spray on was rather significant, I also grabbed a heat lamp and let it sit
> for 5 minutes pretty close to the firewall, the heat was hard to touch for a
> few seconds on the fore side and bearable on the aft side with the
> insulation, so it must do something.
> I have the plane innovation heat vents, I don't know if Paul stuck with the
> same design as mine has, as I know he is always doing more fire tests that
> result in his needing the fire crew to come out when the neighbors see
> smoke (he takes the smoke and fire testing very seriously) but mine
> literally blocks any forced air to come into the vents unless the doors are
> opened a little bit. I grabbed a heat gun and shot it through the SCAT tube
> and had someone tell me when they felt any heat at the cabin side vent
> (without a SCAT tube installed) no heat at all until the vent was pulled,
> there is no doubt they are worth the money. I don't know what they will do
> for smoke blockage, but whatever it is, it is far better than the aluminum
> vents that are part of the kit.
> Skip the Vans vents and get the Plane innovations one, they may save you
> extra work with the tunnel heat issue, I can confirm that when I actually
> fly but based on my limited heat gun testing I can't see how there would be
> a tunnel issue with the vents closed.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
> Differently?
>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn't
>> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experience
>> with an un-insulated firewall?
>>
>> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
>> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is there
>> anything else?
>>
>> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>>
>>> Do different:
>>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>>> that I did over the steps.
>>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>>
>>> Glad I did:
>>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>>> mos)
>>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high
>>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs.
>>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>>
>>> --------
>>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Don't know - maybe somebody without their engine on the mount can check it out!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
Does that happen if you blow air into BOTH sides simultaneously? I can easily
see it if it blows one side...both sides at the same time is harder to understand.
Tim
On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:43 AM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
wrote:
>
> A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect the blower
side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the shop-vac and observe
both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side and a buildup along
the inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high velocity air causes the opposite
side flapper to lift at the hinge.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 11:18 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
>
>
> The insulation, I believe is for heat dissipation, as well as maybe noise? I
> went with a spray on noise than ceramic insulation, I can tell you that the
> "bang test" where I hit the firewall with a wood block before and after the
> spray on was rather significant, I also grabbed a heat lamp and let it sit
> for 5 minutes pretty close to the firewall, the heat was hard to touch for a
> few seconds on the fore side and bearable on the aft side with the
> insulation, so it must do something.
> I have the plane innovation heat vents, I don't know if Paul stuck with the
> same design as mine has, as I know he is always doing more fire tests that
> result in his needing the fire crew to come out when the neighbors see
> smoke (he takes the smoke and fire testing very seriously) but mine
> literally blocks any forced air to come into the vents unless the doors are
> opened a little bit. I grabbed a heat gun and shot it through the SCAT tube
> and had someone tell me when they felt any heat at the cabin side vent
> (without a SCAT tube installed) no heat at all until the vent was pulled,
> there is no doubt they are worth the money. I don't know what they will do
> for smoke blockage, but whatever it is, it is far better than the aluminum
> vents that are part of the kit.
> Skip the Vans vents and get the Plane innovations one, they may save you
> extra work with the tunnel heat issue, I can confirm that when I actually
> fly but based on my limited heat gun testing I can't see how there would be
> a tunnel issue with the vents closed.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
> Differently?
>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn't
>> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experience
>> with an un-insulated firewall?
>>
>> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
>> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is there
>> anything else?
>>
>> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>>
>>> Do different:
>>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>>> that I did over the steps.
>>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>>
>>> Glad I did:
>>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>>> mos)
>>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's high
>>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs.
>>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>>
>>> --------
>>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
There is too much heat from both exhausts so one covers inlet and outlet of
one and uses only one exhaust. From that exhaust you run the one SCAT to a
"Y" and in turn 2 SCATS, 1 per vent.
When you blow air it hits both flappers at the same time.
Hope that makes sense.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
>
> Does that happen if you blow air into BOTH sides simultaneously? I can
> easily see it if it blows one side...both sides at the same time is harder
> to understand.
> Tim
>
>
> On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:43 AM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com> wrote:
>
>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect
>> the blower side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the
>> shop-vac and observe both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side
>> and a buildup along the inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high
>> velocity air causes the opposite side flapper to lift at the hinge.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 11:18 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
>> Differently?
>>
>>
>> The insulation, I believe is for heat dissipation, as well as maybe
>> noise? I
>> went with a spray on noise than ceramic insulation, I can tell you that
>> the
>> "bang test" where I hit the firewall with a wood block before and after
>> the
>> spray on was rather significant, I also grabbed a heat lamp and let it
>> sit
>> for 5 minutes pretty close to the firewall, the heat was hard to touch
>> for a
>> few seconds on the fore side and bearable on the aft side with the
>> insulation, so it must do something.
>> I have the plane innovation heat vents, I don't know if Paul stuck with
>> the
>> same design as mine has, as I know he is always doing more fire tests
>> that
>> result in his needing the fire crew to come out when the neighbors see
>> smoke (he takes the smoke and fire testing very seriously) but mine
>> literally blocks any forced air to come into the vents unless the doors
>> are
>> opened a little bit. I grabbed a heat gun and shot it through the SCAT
>> tube
>> and had someone tell me when they felt any heat at the cabin side vent
>> (without a SCAT tube installed) no heat at all until the vent was pulled,
>> there is no doubt they are worth the money. I don't know what they will
>> do
>> for smoke blockage, but whatever it is, it is far better than the
>> aluminum
>> vents that are part of the kit.
>> Skip the Vans vents and get the Plane innovations one, they may save you
>> extra work with the tunnel heat issue, I can confirm that when I actually
>> fly but based on my limited heat gun testing I can't see how there would
>> be
>> a tunnel issue with the vents closed.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
>> Differently?
>>
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>>
>>> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who
>>> hasn't
>>> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your
>>> experience
>>> with an un-insulated firewall?
>>>
>>> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
>>> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is
>>> there
>>> anything else?
>>>
>>> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>>>
>>> AirMike wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Do different:
>>>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>>>> that I did over the steps.
>>>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>>>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>>>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>>>
>>>> Glad I did:
>>>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>>>> mos)
>>>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's
>>>> high
>>>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>>>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>>>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>>>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>>>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630
>>>> lbs.
>>>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
I would put aileron trim in,place two fuel filters under seat,place flowsc
an firewall forward,use ss heat boxes,use duckworth lights-vans landing li
ghts painfully inadequate in my application,use a thin layer of composite
and weave around plexi to prevent cracking and use matco nosewheel-great
airplane-as an alternative to two fuel filters would be an access door on
tunnel this would allow fuel shutoff to be used and prevent having to dra
in tanks to check and clean filter.-good luck Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 10:14 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Different
ly?
Does that happen if you blow air into BOTH sides simultaneously? I can ea
sily
ee it if it blows one side...both sides at the same time is harder to
nderstand.
im
On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:43 AM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesyst
ems.com>
rote:
esystems.com>
A good way to test the sealing of the vents when building is to connect
the
lower side of a shop-vac to the SCAT connection. Turn on the shop-vac and
bserve both flappers. Silicone sealing helps the flap side and a buildup
along
he inboard side of the hinges helps also. The high velocity air causes th
e
pposite side flapper to lift at the hinge.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com]
n Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 11:18 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differen
tly?
The insulation, I believe is for heat dissipation, as well as maybe noise
? I
went with a spray on noise than ceramic insulation, I can tell you that
the
"bang test" where I hit the firewall with a wood block before and after
the
spray on was rather significant, I also grabbed a heat lamp and let it si
t
for 5 minutes pretty close to the firewall, the heat was hard to touch fo
r a
few seconds on the fore side and bearable on the aft side with the
insulation, so it must do something.
I have the plane innovation heat vents, I don't know if Paul stuck with
the
same design as mine has, as I know he is always doing more fire tests tha
t
result in his needing the fire crew to come out when the neighbors see
smoke (he takes the smoke and fire testing very seriously) but mine
literally blocks any forced air to come into the vents unless the doors
are
opened a little bit. I grabbed a heat gun and shot it through the SCAT tu
be
and had someone tell me when they felt any heat at the cabin side vent
(without a SCAT tube installed) no heat at all until the vent was pulled,
there is no doubt they are worth the money. I don't know what they will
do
for smoke blockage, but whatever it is, it is far better than the aluminu
m
vents that are part of the kit.
Skip the Vans vents and get the Plane innovations one, they may save you
extra work with the tunnel heat issue, I can confirm that when I actually
fly but based on my limited heat gun testing I can't see how there would
be
a tunnel issue with the vents closed.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 7:48 AM
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I haven't put any insulation on my firewall. Can anyone flying who hasn
't
> insulated the firewall comment on the situation? What is your experienc
e
> with an un-insulated firewall?
>
> I kind of want to ask the same question about the SS air box but I think
> the only issue there is safety in case of firewall forward fire. Is the
re
> anything else?
>
> Bill "superfil is good" Watson.
>
> AirMike wrote:
>>
>> Do different:
>> 1. Nut plate the rear floor or at least put in the 2 inspection plates
>> that I did over the steps.
>> 2. Provision for an easily removable portable Oxygen bottle. This plane
>> likes to fly high. Not a big deal and can be done after certification.
>> 3. Put in a regular VOR antenna for IFR navigation.
>>
>> Glad I did:
>> 1. Kept the mods to a minimum for a quick build cycle (I did it in 32
>> mos)
>> 2. Must do mods - SS heated air box - rivethead door pins - Alex D's hi
gh
>> capacity oil cooler - at least for flying out west.
>> 3. Insulate the firewall
>> 4. Simple panel - LED lighting kit
>> 5. Keep the weight light (See Tim Olson post). This is a biggggg deal
>> after you are flying. I have almost no interior. I am at about 1630 lbs
.
>> Most seem to run about 1700 lbs. Comfort or capacity - your choice....
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308161#308161
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Overhead Console Vents |
What is everyone using for overhead console vents, and are you happy with the vent
quality? I see vents range from $59 to almost $200. I don't want to overpay,
but I want a quality vent....
Thanks
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
Message 24
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| Subject: | Overhead Console Vents |
Use the vents Stein air sells. They are worth the money and shut off tight.
Not the cheapest but are the best.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 2:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console Vents
--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
What is everyone using for overhead console vents, and are you happy with
the vent quality? I see vents range from $59 to almost $200. I don't want
to overpay, but I want a quality vent....
Thanks
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
Message 25
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| Subject: | Wing Kit Decisions |
Thanks for all of the feedback.
I had hoped that there would be access for most of this once I have
completed the fuse kit. Avionics are changing so fast, I wouldn't want
to choose a particular company/technology during this part of the build,
and limit my options later.
I am going to pick up the wing kit in 10 days, so I wanted to get a good
idea what I need to be planning for, and what decisions I might have
been locked into by the previous builder.
So, right now looks like I will do the pitot mount, conduit runs, and
possibly the aileron trim if it is included in the kit I bought.
Thanks again.
--
Brent Humphreys
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing Kit Decisions
You can use an 8' table easily because the spar is a lot heavier on the
inboard end. Storage is best done using a stand to hold them vertical.
You can also keep them in that stand when installing the bottom skin.
No real decisions during the build. It want to defer wiring it will be
easier to install conduit running the length of the wings with breaks at
the access panels.
- Aileron trim: easily installed when complete. Servo mounts
to inboard inspection panel and attaches to control tube with 2 springs
(clips get attached to tube with pulled rivets).
- Extended range tanks: can't comment on install but consider
your mission. An RV-10 has tremendous range/duration especially running
LOP. There are certainly a few that NEED extended range tanks but most
of us appreciate a break after flying 3-4 hours (running 50 LOP you'll
have 5+ hours endurance).
- Autopilot servo: servo will be specific to the AP you select
so wait until you've settled on the AP decision. Roll servo will mount
in the bay with the outboard inspection panel and attach to the aileron
bellcrank. Probably a little easier to install before closing up the
wing but not a big deal to do afterward.
- Lighting type: decision can be deferred. Wiring will go to
the wingtips so conduit will make it easy to install later. If you're
going to do leading edge (vs. wingtip) landing lights you might consider
doing the mechanical install before closing everything up. Plenty of
people have done it after though without issue.
One thing not mentioned yet is heated pitot. If you're going to use a
heated pitot tube you'll need a mount for it. Most people use the Gretz
type mount which will need to be installed before attaching the bottom
skin. There's a doubler, attachment to a rib, and hole to be cut in the
bottom skin that would be difficult to do after closing up.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brent P.
Humphreys
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 8:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Kit Decisions
I am about to purchase a wing kit from another builder. I am getting my
workspace ready, and also looking into the build process, and any
decisions I need to make before closing up the wings. So, I have a few
questions for those that have gone before.
1. What size table/jig did you use for building the wings? I am a
little space constrained, so I am wondering what size table I need, or
if I would be better off doing a fixed stand like the jigs some of the
other RV types use for construction.
2. What decisions do I need to make for the wing build?
a. Aileron Trim
b. Extended range tanks (SafeAir1)
c. Select Autopilot and Servos
d. Lighting type
Any other advice on options I should be considering at this point in the
build would be appreciated. Thanks
--
Brent Humphreys
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Kit Decisions |
All of the above posts have excellent information. I am presently installing last
outboard wing skin/pitot mount. I have used 2 ea 30" x 84" tables for tail/wing
kit. Doing bottom skins while wings lying on top with padding. Definitely
much easier for me or my wife to hold rivet gun vertical and not as far to drop
tungsten bucking bar(so far so good haven't dropped it). I decided against
the plastic pitot due to several melt downs recently. Went with Falcon from Spruce.
You will need a small 4" x 5" piece of .064" 2024-T3 for pitot reinforcement
to tie into spar and rib. I installed pitot inside of 2nd rib inboard from
tip. Installed HID lights before installing outboard leading edge to spars...much
easier this way. Inst ap servo and harness from Stein. All wiring pre ran
through snap bushings with one spare 18ga. System 6 strobe/pos lights ready
to install in tips in a few weeks. Aileron trim kit ready to install after control
tubes are installed. Next comes ailerons. Have fun.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308259#308259
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Thanks for that detail. I in fact tried to seal it up with some red
silicone in the tube - didn't work very well. But bonding some thin
sheet to the flap I can see could do the trick
I used some (thick) silicone sheet to replace the cooling shroud
material in the kit (never did like that stuff on my Maule). Cool
stuff, interesting properties, looking for more applications just because.
Thanks!
Bill
Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> My good buddy and RV-10 builder optede for the SS heat boxes. I
> didn't ..... yet.
> He had some thin red silicone sheet that he bonded to the flapper to
> seal the hole when closed. I did the same (he gave me enough to do
> mine) bonding the sheet to the flapper with red silicone from the tube
> and closing the flapper while the silicone cured.
> I'm into fire prevention (I know it's impossible to get it 100%)
> rather than fire mitigation.
> Linn
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> Bill - a couple of issues with the stock heat boxes:
>> - they're aluminum which partially defeats the purpose of having a
>> stainless steel firewall since they're the only thing between the
>> cabin and a pair of 2" holes.
>> - the hinges on the stock aluminum boxes are sloppy and are at least
>> part of the legendary "hot tunnel" issue. Air from the opposite side
>> SCAT causes the flapper to lift on the hinge side and allow hot air
>> in even if the flapper is closed. You won't feel flow but will get
>> hot air in there.
>>
>> Bob
>> RV-10 N442PM
>>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
If I were building a plane today this would be my list:
I'll try to go from front to back
* I would stay with the Hartzell prop - I like the extra weight up front for CG
* Add the front wheel Matco spacer that he sells
* I would make the lower cowl opening larger so I could drop my cowl more (I
still can do this)
* I would not install the cowl hinge on the bottom of the plane. Use something
else more solid. Mine cracked after 150 hours and I have read about this
happening to many others. I used a solid piece of aluminum and nutplates.
* The Lightspeed iginition is great and I am not sure about the new technology
coming out but I would buy what Bart at Aerosport tells me to buy.
* I would probably go with the standard PlanePower Alternator instead of the
B&C I used. The B&C is great and at the time they did not use PlanePower
* Not completely sure if I would ceramic coat my exhaust but I probably would
* I would definitely put more fiberglass around my windows on the gap between
the window and the cabin top to prevent cracking.
* I would add the overhead console
* I would use LED position and strobes lights
* The HID's from duckworks are still some of the brightest and I like them.
* For the interior there are more options now with Geoff's (Aerosport) side
panels so I would have to think about that. I would use his panel since Lancair
doesn't make them anymore. Abby at Flightline also does a great job.
* Panel: I just don't know but it would be the G900 if I was going expensive or
I would do the G3X, Advanced or Grand Rapids. They are all great options today
and I would probably spend less today knowing that I will want to upgrade every
5-7 years anyway. There are so many awesome panels out there and it is
dependent on budget and personal preference.
* I would add TCAS for me or ADS-B for flatlander flying. ADS-B just does not
have good coverage out here in the mountains.
* I would add APRS during the build (I will be adding it this month) for
continuous tracking.
* You must replace the main wheel fairing extension on each wheel.
* For rudder trim, I would add electric trim from the beginning. I will install
a rudder bias system sometime soon.
* I would not use the Bob Archer Nav antenna and go with a whisker type below
the rudder. I just don't feel my range is as good.
* The stock tires are OK but the new tubes and retreads are much better and
don't leak air nearly as fast. (But wear our the stock one's first I would
think)
* Make sure you have a solid rudder lock system. It only takes prop blast from
one plane or a windy day to destroy your rudder. If I leave the plane for more
than 2 seconds I put the rudder lock in.
I don't know if I thought of everything.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Dave Fritzsche (Building) <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 10:33:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently?
<fritzsch@eskimo.com>
This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while and have
gained significant use experience. I believe the response will be very helpful
to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decisions of
what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, modifications
and also useful techniques used to complete the building process. I am not
asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but for what you believe you
learned from your experience.
If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from
building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing the
project?
Dave
-- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console Vents |
Which vents that Steinair sells will fit in the overhead console? There are 2
types, one that receives scat tube directly and one with a plenum. I'm not sure
if the plenum will fit in the overhead space?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308307#308307
Message 30
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| Subject: | Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale |
Guys,
I built this RV10 (3 years of my blood, sweat, and tears) for my brother. He
owns it and needs to sell it. It hurts me just to write this. Kit # is 40512.
If you are looking for a very nice RV10, this may be just the ticket.
More info can be found at the link below.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
Thanks,
Joe
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308312#308312
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console Vents |
You answered your own question. With the overhead, the entire overhead is
pressurized and you don't need scat tube connected directly to the vents.
The smaller vent is the one you want. The smaller one is also what you'll
need if you have the Aerosport panel for the front vents too. The larger
vent is just too big for either location.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 9:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console Vents
Which vents that Steinair sells will fit in the overhead console? There are
2 types, one that receives scat tube directly and one with a plenum. I'm
not sure if the plenum will fit in the overhead space?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308307#308307
Message 32
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| Subject: | Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale |
NIce frickin job...it looks great and the price is right for someone! It is
probably worth more. I Hope you get what it is worth.
> Subject: RV10-List: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale
> From: zackrv8@verizon.net
> Date: Tue=2C 10 Aug 2010 19:18:00 -0700
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Guys=2C
>
> I built this RV10 (3 years of my blood=2C sweat=2C and tears) for my b
rother. He owns it and needs to sell it. It hurts me just to write this.
Kit # is 40512. If you are looking for a very nice RV10=2C this may be ju
st the ticket.
>
> More info can be found at the link below.
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
>
> Thanks=2C
> Joe
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308312#308312
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console Vents |
Oh yea, that's right, thanks
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308318#308318
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale |
Lotsa luck getting that price...Maybe I shoulda chromed my hinges
Rick
N246RS
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 10, 2010, at 7:18 PM, "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I built this RV10 (3 years of my blood, sweat, and tears) for my
> brother. He owns it and needs to sell it. It hurts me just to
> write this. Kit # is 40512. If you are looking for a very nice
> RV10, this may be just the ticket.
>
> More info can be found at the link below.
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308312#308312
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale |
That plane is worth every penny at 250,000. Actually compared to other
certified planes is it worth TWICE that.
____________________________________________________________
Get Auto Insurance Now
Complete an Online Quote Now & Save. Big on Coverage You Can Rely on!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4c62296db7f2b65f2a1st06vuc
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Bronze Lindy RV10 For Sale |
Beautiful aircraft, great job.
You need to have your brother sell it to you at cost. He will regret it later.
That would be one nice aircraft for someone wanting a finished RV-10.
I was blown away again at the $600,000 Cirrus/Columbia aircraft at Oshkosh. Your
aircraft is such a better value.
-Scott Schmidt
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 10, 2010, at 8:18 PM, "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
Guys,
I built this RV10 (3 years of my blood, sweat, and tears) for my brother. He
owns it and needs to sell it. It hurts me just to write this. Kit # is 40512.
If you are looking for a very nice RV10, this may be just the ticket.
More info can be found at the link below.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
Thanks,
Joe
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308312#308312
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