Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:19 AM - Re: Re: Overhead Console Airflow (Richard Bibb)
2. 05:45 AM - Re: Re: Overhead Console Airflow (Geoff Combs)
3. 06:04 AM - Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 07:45 AM - ELT antenna (Chris Hukill)
5. 07:54 AM - Re: ELT antenna (Kelly McMullen)
6. 09:01 AM - Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators (Richard Martin)
7. 11:35 AM - Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators (Scott Schmidt)
8. 11:35 AM - Re: GPS and ELT Antennae mounting (johngoodman)
9. 01:38 PM - Re: Re: GPS and ELT Antennae mounting ()
10. 03:39 PM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Bruce Johnson)
11. 05:48 PM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (Pascal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console Airflow |
Where does the input for the airflow for vents in the upper console come
from? Are some NACA vents put somewhere in the tailcone area connected via
SCAT tubing to the rear of the overhead console through the rear baggage
area bulkhead?
Richard Bibb
571-379-3290 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib@me.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 7:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console Airflow
rvdave wrote:
> So which are the better of the vents that Steinair sells for the overhead,
the 1 1/4 or the 1 3/4, someone mentioned the smaller ones work better?
Wouldn't the larger provide more air flow?
I think it might depend on your panel design. I have a SteinAir RV-10 panel
and used the larger vents I mentioned in my previous post. They fit
perfectly. I suspect that some of the other custom panels out there might
work better with a smaller vent.
$.02 worth
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308422#308422
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console Airflow |
Richard here are some pictures of what a lot of people are doing. It works
really good and very easy to install. Also is a picture of my
Controller valve so I can adjust airflow as needed and totally shut of in
the winter.
Hope this helps Geoff
Geoff Combs
N829GW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bibb
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console Airflow
Where does the input for the airflow for vents in the upper console come
from? Are some NACA vents put somewhere in the tailcone area connected via
SCAT tubing to the rear of the overhead console through the rear baggage
area bulkhead?
Richard Bibb
571-379-3290 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib@me.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 7:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console Airflow
rvdave wrote:
> So which are the better of the vents that Steinair sells for the
> overhead,
the 1 1/4 or the 1 3/4, someone mentioned the smaller ones work better?
Wouldn't the larger provide more air flow?
I think it might depend on your panel design. I have a SteinAir RV-10 panel
and used the larger vents I mentioned in my previous post. They fit
perfectly. I suspect that some of the other custom panels out there might
work better with a smaller vent.
$.02 worth
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308422#308422
Message 3
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| Subject: | Plane power Vs B&C Alternators |
I've got both a B&C 60 amp primary and a 20 amp aux alternator and never ha
d any issue. My goal was extremely high reliability in the electrical syst
em and after doing a fair amount of research (certified and experimental) I
settled on these. What I found is that while you will hear people complai
n about the price, it's very difficult to find somebody that complains abou
t their quality or reliability. As to Plane Power - no opinion.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 8:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators
I would appreciate any feedback regarding the selection of both the main an
d auxiliary drive alternators please, as I'd like to compare the Plane Powe
r and B & C offerings please.
I'm obviously looking at cost, but reliability, performance, after sales se
rvice and ease of mounting the units also come into play.
Your thoughts would be very much appreciated, especially when you've never
seen any of these products before you buy.
Kind regards from (cold) down-under.
PATRICK PULIS
RV-10 Serial No. 40299 VH-XPP (Reserved)
Adelaide, South Australia
Tel: +61 8 8236 6808
Fax: +61 8 8236 6899
Mob: +61 0418 850 156
60% Done - 90% To Go!
Message 4
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I took a 7.25 inch piece of 1/16th welding rod, welded a nutplate to the
end and used a router to cut a groove in the under side of the cabin
top, running forward, just ahead of the F1074 skin and bulkhead. I then
attached a second nutplate to the backup strip where the pop rivets go
thru the cabin top. Then fill the groove with the wire in it with micro.
This was all done with the top upside down on the bench, but could be a
(somewhat messy) retrofit, with the top installed. What you now have is
a tuned (1/4 wave for 406 mhz) vertically polarized antenna, with ground
plane (the aft bulkhead, F1074 skin, aluminum backing strip assembly).
The vertical polarization is best for satellite reception, assuming the
aircraft isn't standing on it's nose after the crash. The crash
protected and completely hidden antenna is wired with the center
conductor of the coax to the nutplate on the wire, and the shield to the
ground plane nutplate. The 406 tuned aspect of the antenna and vertical
polarization is not optimum for the 121.5 mhz transmission function of
the ELT, but I prefer to have the antenna optimized for the satellite
freqs. I can attest to the function of this setup with an inadvertent
activation of this same type of installation I have in my RV8. The ELT
antenna in the 8 is mounted in the wingtip the same way, with the rod
going out horizontally into the wingtip, and the outboard rib being the
ground plane and mounting structure. I accidentally set the ELT off
trying to test it , and in less than ten minutes , I received a call
from the USAF asking about the ELT hits. I apologized profusely, and
explained that I was still trying to get all the screws out of the
wingtip to shut the damn thing off. The remote switch turned it on OK,
but wouldn't shut it off! I had tried to call the tower, but they didn't
even know what a 406 ELT was, let alone the phone number to call to
report a false alarm (800 851-3051). Anyway, the nice Zoomie said no
problem sir. I then asked him where his satellite was showing me to be,
and he said in the northwest corner of KVGT. This was from an aircraft
in a closed STEEL hangar (in the NW corner of the airport). This ELT
does not have GPS interface! The satellite triangulation was giving him
a very accurate position of my ELT, even without the GPS! Maybe the Sats
aren't that good in other places of the world, but wow, am I a believer.
I can't imagine anybody not availing themselves of this technology. I
too have APRS installed (KE7HKK) , which I agree with Tim is fantastic .
I also carry a GPS enabled PLB on board, but no way would I travel in
an aircraft without a 406 ELT.
Chris Hukill
Message 5
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Only one small fly in the ointment, if your DAR or FAA decide to be
picky. All ELT's must be TSO'd by regulation. The antenna that they
demonstrate TSO compliance is part of the TSO approval, and it is not
legal to substitute another antenna. Does not matter whether it is on
homebuilt, warbird or ordinary type certificated aircraft.
I'm rather certain what you have does a fine job. Just not what the
paper pushers would bless.
Kelly
On 8/12/2010 7:44 AM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> I took a 7.25 inch piece of 1/16th welding rod, welded a nutplate to
> the end and used a router to cut a groove in the under side of the
> cabin top, running forward, just ahead of the F1074 skin and bulkhead.
> I then attached a second nutplate to the backup strip where the pop
> rivets go thru the cabin top. Then fill the groove with the wire in it
> with micro.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators |
I have 2000 plus hours on my RV8 with the B&C 40 amp alternators with
satisfactory performance. I have a total electric airplane, avionecs,
ignition etc. I used tthe 40 ampt size because I wnated to make the
airplanne as light as possible. No paint, light seats full IFR etc.
Good luck
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 8:46 PM, Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au>wrote:
> I would appreciate any feedback regarding the selection of both the main
> and auxiliary drive alternators please, as I'd like to compare the *Plane
> Power* and *B & C* offerings please.
>
> I'm obviously looking at cost, but reliability, performance, after sales
> service and ease of mounting the units also come into play.
>
> Your thoughts would be very much appreciated, especially when you've never
> seen any of these products before you buy.
>
> Kind regards from (cold) down-under.
>
>
> *PATRICK PULIS*
>
> *RV-10 Serial No. 40299 VH-XPP (Reserved)*
>
> *Adelaide, South Australia*
>
> * *
>
> *Tel: +61 8 8236 6808*
>
> *Fax: +61 8 8236 6899*
>
> * *
>
> *Mob: +61 0418 850 156*
>
> * *
>
> *60% Done - 90% To Go!*
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators |
I don't have any direct comparison.
I have the B&C 60 amp and it has been great. It would be interesting to see
both of them taken apart. At Oshkosh the B&C booth will compare a standard
aircraft alternator to theirs and the B&C is just built better, better bearings,
more windings, ect....
When I received my FWF kit in early 2006 they were supplying a Mazda alternator
with the kit and gave me a $30-$40 credit when I returned it. I'm sure it works
fine and can be easily replaced but I perceived the B&C as more reliable for my
all glass panel with no analog backup.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, August 12, 2010 9:57:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators
I have 2000 plus hours on my RV8 with the B&C 40 amp alternators with
satisfactory performance. I have a total electric airplane, avionecs, ignition
etc. I used tthe 40 ampt size because I wnated to make the airplanne as light
as possible. No paint, light seats full IFR etc.
Good luck
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 8:46 PM, Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au>
wrote:
I would appreciate any feedback regarding the selection of both the main and
auxiliary drive alternators please, as I'd like to compare the Plane Power and
B
& C offerings please.
>
>I'm obviously looking at cost, but reliability, performance, after sales service
>and ease of mounting the units also come into play.
>
>Your thoughts would be very much appreciated, especially when you've never seen
>any of these products before you buy.
>
>Kind regards from (cold) down-under.
>
>PATRICK PULIS
>RV-10 Serial No. 40299 VH-XPP (Reserved)
>Adelaide, South Australia
>
>Tel: +61 8 8236 6808
>Fax: +61 8 8236 6899
>
>Mob: +61 0418 850 156
>
>60% Done - 90% To Go!
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: GPS and ELT Antennae mounting |
Since Jeff also mentioned the GNS 430W antenna, how are folks filling the gaps
under the antenna on curved surfaces?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308547#308547
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: GPS and ELT Antennae mounting |
Here's the approach I took to mounting the 430W and other GPS antenna:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'214&row=22
Mounting the 430 antenna on the glass top makes the filling underneath pretty straight
forward - just glop some flox/micro mix under it.
After attending a seminar by our local panel shop, I came away believing that the
top of the canopy is an optimal location for the 430W antenna. Mounting the
other ones at the top of the windsheild sort of mimics by 396 antenna mount
in the Maule and I don't think it will be an eye sore. I was able to bring 3
cables plus a power and ground lead for the lights through the center post. Paid
some attention to chafe relief at both ends.
Bill "on short vacation from the project" Watson
---- johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Since Jeff also mentioned the GNS 430W antenna, how are folks filling the gaps
under the antenna on curved surfaces?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308547#308547
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
I know it a little late on the things I would or wouldn't do but, I would
=0Adefinitely not use Performance engines again, they are less than honest.
And if =0Ayou happen to run into a guy named Wade Barnett, run away. Good
luck to all-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "Fred
Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Mon, August 9, 2010 4:01:29 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: If Doing
It Again, What Would You Do Differently?=0A=0A--> RV10-List message posted
by: "Fred Williams, M.D." =0A<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>=0A=0AMy 2 cents=0A
=0A1.- Not install the center console.- It takes up some knee room on l
ong =0Aflights.- Harder to service the tunnel.=0A=0A2. Move the- inline
gas filter to two smaller units under the seats. =0A3. go with LED wingtip
lights from the out set.=0A=0A4. simplify my panel.- I have two AFS efis
panels, one for the co pilot/one for =0Ame,- Put it all into one in fron
t of the pilot.- I do like the unit. =0A=0A5. Get the upgrades on the fro
nt axle from the beginning.- I never had any =0Aproblems with the stock o
ne, but the matco upgrade is worth the upgrade. =0A=0A6. simplify the audio
panel.- All the rear jacks/entertainment just isn't very =0Auseful.- A
s long as you have XM weather and radio, not much else is needed. =0A=0A7.
fix the loose steps before I closed the lower pan.- Still gotta go back a
nd =0Acut holes in the floor to stop the wiggle. =0A=0A8. Read and follow t
he recent updates on the door construction and =0Ainstallation.- It will
save you time and money and frustration.- The doors are =0Adoable, and yo
u can get great results, if you go about it correctly. =0A=0ADr Fred=0A=0A7
takeoffs and landings this last Saturday.- What a great machine. =0A=0AD
Fritzsche (Building)" =0A><fritzsch@eskimo.com>=0A> =0A> This question is p
rimarily for those who have been flying for a while and have =0A>gained sig
nificant use experience.- I believe the response will be very helpful =0A
>to those of us who are in the building process and wrestling with decision
s of =0A>what to put into our aircraft in terms of electronics, engines, mo
difications =0A>and also useful techniques used to complete the building pr
ocess.- I am not =0A>asking for what is best (no primer wars here) but fo
r what you believe you =0A>learned from your experience.=0A> =0A> If you we
re starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge gained from =0A>b
uilding and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently in completing t
=0A=0A=0A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
On the flip side for those who may be running away. A place to consider
going to is America's Aircraft Engine in Oklahoma
http://www.overhaul.com/index.html, They are great to work with, and
quite honest along the way.
I would do that again
Pascal
From: Bruce Johnson
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
I know it a little late on the things I would or wouldn't do but, I
would definitely not use Performance engines again, they are less than
honest. And if you happen to run into a guy named Wade Barnett, run
away. Good luck to all
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 4:01:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do
Differently?
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
My 2 cents
1. Not install the center console. It takes up some knee room on long
flights. Harder to service the tunnel.
2. Move the inline gas filter to two smaller units under the seats.
3. go with LED wingtip lights from the out set.
4. simplify my panel. I have two AFS efis panels, one for the co
pilot/one for me, Put it all into one in front of the pilot. I do like
the unit.
5. Get the upgrades on the front axle from the beginning. I never had
any problems with the stock one, but the matco upgrade is worth the
upgrade.
6. simplify the audio panel. All the rear jacks/entertainment just
isn't very useful. As long as you have XM weather and radio, not much
else is needed.
7. fix the loose steps before I closed the lower pan. Still gotta go
back and cut holes in the floor to stop the wiggle.
8. Read and follow the recent updates on the door construction and
installation. It will save you time and money and frustration. The
doors are doable, and you can get great results, if you go about it
correctly.
Dr Fred
7 takeoffs and landings this last Saturday. What a great machine.
Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
<fritzsch@eskimo.com>
>
> This question is primarily for those who have been flying for a while
and have gained significant use experience. I believe the response will
be very helpful to those of us who are in the building process and
wrestling with decisions of what to put into our aircraft in terms of
electronics, engines, modifications and also useful techniques used to
complete the building process. I am not asking for what is best (no
primer wars here) but for what you believe you learned from your
experience.
>
> If you were starting to build an RV-10 given you current knowledge
gained from building and flying you RV-10, what would you do differently
in completing the probsp; -Matt Dralle,
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