Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:46 AM - Re: Prop Governor revisited (lessdragprod@aol.com)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: Prop Governor revisited (jayb)
3. 07:11 AM - Re: Re: Prop Governor revisited (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 08:26 AM - Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? (AirMike)
5. 12:27 PM - Starting problems (William Hicks)
6. 01:41 PM - Re: Starting problems (Bob Turner)
7. 01:47 PM - Re: Starting problems (Kelly McMullen)
8. 01:58 PM - Re: Starting problems (Linn Walters)
9. 02:08 PM - Re: Starting problems (Linn Walters)
10. 02:17 PM - Re: Starting problems (Kelly McMullen)
11. 02:19 PM - Re: Starting problems (Dave Saylor)
12. 03:46 PM - Re: Starting problems (Kevin Belue)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
I believe the question being asked is "Is only getting 2550 RPM maximum ac
ceptable when a (I)O-540 narrow deck governor is installed on a (I)O-540
wide deck engine".
I wouldn't think so.
Especially when Van's Aircraft could provide the correct governor. I am
aware of them knowing about this for at least three years.
Just my opinion.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 10050 650 hours - LOM M332A engine - 3 blade electric CS MT Propel
ler & Warne fixed pitch propeller
RV-6A sn 21873 150 hours - Lyc. O-360 engine - metal 2 blade CS MT Propell
er & 3 blade CS MT Propeller
RV-4/HR2/modified sn 001 28 hiours - IO-540 narrow deck engine - counterwe
ighted 4 blade CS MT Propeller & counterweighted 3 blade CS Propeller in
process.
-----Original Message-----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sent: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 9:22 am
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
ystems.com>
As long as you have at least Rev F of the governor supplied by Vans you'll
be
ine. Revisions prior to that potentially have an issue with surging. I
would
magine that anything you get delivered now will be latest revision. If ot
hers
re reading this and they have an older Rev B or C prop governor, MT will
update
t to latest version without charge if you have issues.
Bob
V-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----
rom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com]
n Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
ent: Friday, August 13, 2010 11:02 AM
o: rv10-list@matronics.com
ubject: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
In reviewing the archives, I note that several times it was pointed
ut that Vans supplies a governor setup for the narrow deck Lycoming
ngine configuration, when most folks are using are wide deck
ngines that should get different dash number set for that engine. Is
t worth deleting the Vans unit from the FWF kit and obtaining the
orrect one elsewhere, or are folks satisfied with repositioning the
rm and resetting the max rpm on what Vans provides?
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
Stuff that keeps me up at night.
Does anyone have pointers to links or threads that describe how to tell if one
has Rev F? I looked over the MT docs in my possession, but didn't get a sense
of rev number (could have missed it tho). My serial number ends in an "F"... Maybe
that's good?
Thanks,
Jay
bcondrey wrote:
> As long as you have at least Rev F of the governor supplied by Vans you'll be
fine. Revisions prior to that potentially have an issue with surging.
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308765#308765
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
You're good then.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: jayb [mailto:jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 06:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Prop Governor revisited
Stuff that keeps me up at night.
Does anyone have pointers to links or threads that describe how to tell if one
has Rev F? I looked over the MT docs in my possession, but didn't get a sense
of rev number (could have missed it tho). My serial number ends in an "F"... Maybe
that's good?
Thanks,
Jay
bcondrey wrote:
> As long as you have at least Rev F of the governor supplied by Vans you'll be
fine. Revisions prior to that potentially have an issue with surging.
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308765#308765
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: If Doing It Again, What Would You Do Differently? |
Engine from Mattituck in NY. I and a lot of others have their Red/Gold engine,
great support. Reasonable price. It is mass balanced, fine wire plugs, home delivered
on a lift gate truck (no extra charge). Runs solid after 70 hrs. Used
1 qt of oil to OSH and back to the West Coast. It is standard compression which
might be desirable if we go to a new fuel.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308782#308782
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Subject: | Starting problems |
Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4 a5, are
having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine eventually starts
just as you release key from start position. We have checked the slick start
and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar situation and if so did
find a fix?
Sent from my iPhone
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
ACS site says it works with "impulse coupled, or retard breaker, mags...". Do you
have some form of retarded timing on your mags, for start?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308820#308820
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
Since this should be the same wiring as the old Bendix Shower of
Sparks, or retard breaker system, the start circuit goes through a
second set of points, the retard points that activate at TDC. If those
points aren't opening and closing correctly, or aren't hooked up via
what looks like a second "P lead" which will have a smaller dia
connector, then you aren't getting a spark during cranking. Your
symptoms are a classic on retard breaker system. When you release the
key from start position it goes back to normal firing of both mags and
is starting on that. When you are cranking only the left mag that has
the retard breaker points is supposed to fire, and only at TDC. You
have something that is preventing that firing from happening at TDC.
Either the ignition switch isn't wired correctly, or the retard points
aren't opening correctly.
I'd go back to the documentation for your left mag, your Slick Start
documentation, and the wiring diagram for the ignition switch and
verify all of it. I don't know, perhaps the slick start is supposed to
fire both mags, maybe it can do it without using the retard breaker
points, but you need to verify that it is being triggered at TDC, and
that there is spark at the plugs at TDC. If it only fires when you
release the start key, that is not happening.
On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 12:24 PM, William Hicks <bilhicks@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4 a5,
are having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine eventually starts
just as you release key from start position. We have checked the slick start
and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar situation and if so did
find a fix?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
No first hand experience, but I'm betting that the starter is drawing
down the battery voltage so that the Slickstart doesn't get it's full
share. Measure the voltage at the Slickstart while cranking. If you
didn't run a ground wire from the battery to the engine compartment, you
might entertain doing that now. If you have the normal Vans
installation, check for a good connection at the battery ground to the
airframe ....... get rid of the paint under the lug.
Linn
.
William Hicks wrote:
>
> Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4 a5,
are having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine eventually
starts just as you release key from start position. We have checked the slick
start and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar situation and if so
did find a fix?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
Kellt and Bob's post got me to thinking ..... it could be that the
engine cranking speed is higher than the Slickstart wants for retarded
spark.
Linn
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Since this should be the same wiring as the old Bendix Shower of
> Sparks, or retard breaker system, the start circuit goes through a
> second set of points, the retard points that activate at TDC. If those
> points aren't opening and closing correctly, or aren't hooked up via
> what looks like a second "P lead" which will have a smaller dia
> connector, then you aren't getting a spark during cranking. Your
> symptoms are a classic on retard breaker system. When you release the
> key from start position it goes back to normal firing of both mags and
> is starting on that. When you are cranking only the left mag that has
> the retard breaker points is supposed to fire, and only at TDC. You
> have something that is preventing that firing from happening at TDC.
> Either the ignition switch isn't wired correctly, or the retard points
> aren't opening correctly.
> I'd go back to the documentation for your left mag, your Slick Start
> documentation, and the wiring diagram for the ignition switch and
> verify all of it. I don't know, perhaps the slick start is supposed to
> fire both mags, maybe it can do it without using the retard breaker
> points, but you need to verify that it is being triggered at TDC, and
> that there is spark at the plugs at TDC. If it only fires when you
> release the start key, that is not happening.
>
> On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 12:24 PM, William Hicks <bilhicks@swbell.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4 a5,
are having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine eventually
starts just as you release key from start position. We have checked the slick
start and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar situation and if so
did find a fix?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
That is possible. I have no problems with the traditional Bendix
vibrator Shower of Sparks on my old Mooney with a Skytec high speed
starter. In fact it starts just fine, hot or cold unless the head
space and timing are not correct between the ears of the pilot. ;-)
On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 2:07 PM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Kelly and Bob's post got me to thinking ..... it could be that the engine
> cranking speed is higher than the Slickstart wants for retarded spark.
> Linn
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> Since this should be the same wiring as the old Bendix Shower of
> Sparks, or retard breaker system, the start circuit goes through a
> second set of points, the retard points that activate at TDC. If those
> points aren't opening and closing correctly, or aren't hooked up via
> what looks like a second "P lead" which will have a smaller dia
> connector, then you aren't getting a spark during cranking. Your
> symptoms are a classic on retard breaker system. When you release the
> key from start position it goes back to normal firing of both mags and
> is starting on that. When you are cranking only the left mag that has
> the retard breaker points is supposed to fire, and only at TDC. You
> have something that is preventing that firing from happening at TDC.
> Either the ignition switch isn't wired correctly, or the retard points
> aren't opening correctly.
> I'd go back to the documentation for your left mag, your Slick Start
> documentation, and the wiring diagram for the ignition switch and
> verify all of it. I don't know, perhaps the slick start is supposed to
> fire both mags, maybe it can do it without using the retard breaker
> points, but you need to verify that it is being triggered at TDC, and
> that there is spark at the plugs at TDC. If it only fires when you
> release the start key, that is not happening.
>
> On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 12:24 PM, William Hicks <bilhicks@swbell.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4
> a5, are having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine
> eventually starts just as you release key from start position. We have
> checked the slick start and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar
> situation and if so did find a fix?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
Engines with SlickStart get really hard to start when the retard points get
worn. That can happen on some mags with very little time in service, i.e.,
as little as 100 hours. Check the condition of the retard points and time
them per the instructions. Even retarded as much as one or two degrees
after TC should be OK.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 12:24 PM, William Hicks <bilhicks@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4
> a5, are having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine
> eventually starts just as you release key from start position. We have
> checked the slick start and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar
> situation and if so did find a fix?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Starting problems |
I had the same starting problem. I found that the start switch was wired wro
ng so the retard breaker was not working and both mags fired at 25 BTDC. Rew
ired switch and it starts correctly.
Kevin
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 14, 2010, at 4:17 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Engines with SlickStart get really hard to start when the retard points ge
t worn. That can happen on some mags with very little time in service, i.e.
, as little as 100 hours. Check the condition of the retard points and time
them per the instructions. Even retarded as much as one or two degrees aft
er TC should be OK.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 12:24 PM, William Hicks <bilhicks@swbell.net> wrot
e:
>
> Couple of us with dual mags, no impulse couplers, slick start on io540 d4 a
5, are having starting problems on both cold and hot starts. Engine eventua
lly starts just as you release key from start position. We have checked the
slick start and it is putting out spark. Any one have similar situation an
d if so did find a fix?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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> k">http://forums.matronics.com
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> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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>
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