Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:30 AM - Re: ELT antenna (cjay)
2. 04:49 AM - Primer Question (Vernon Franklin)
3. 05:03 AM - Re: Nosewheel Fairing Alignment (THOMAS GESELE)
4. 05:40 AM - Re: Primer Question (Dave Leikam)
5. 05:55 AM - Re: Primer Question (Linn Walters)
6. 05:55 AM - Re: Nosewheel Fairing Alignment (David Maib)
7. 05:55 AM - Re: Primer Question (Kelly McMullen)
8. 05:55 AM - Re: Primer Question (Phillip Perry)
9. 06:15 AM - Re: Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators (David Maib)
10. 07:03 AM - Re: Primer Question (Richard Bibb)
11. 08:12 AM - FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (Tim Olson)
12. 08:25 AM - Re: Primer Question (Fred Williams, M.D.)
13. 08:39 AM - Re: Primer Question (John Cox)
14. 08:54 AM - Re: Primer Question (Linn Walters)
15. 09:00 AM - S/S heater box (woxofswa)
16. 09:11 AM - Re: S/S heater box (Phillip Perry)
17. 09:29 AM - Re: S/S heater box (Pascal)
18. 09:48 AM - Re: Primer Question (William Greenley)
19. 11:05 AM - Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (mouser)
20. 11:49 AM - Re: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (Tim Olson)
21. 12:06 PM - Re: Primer Question (Pascal)
22. 12:27 PM - Re: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (Pascal)
23. 12:31 PM - Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (mouser)
24. 01:04 PM - Re: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (Tim Olson)
25. 01:33 PM - Re: Primer Question (Kelly McMullen)
26. 03:13 PM - Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (Bob Turner)
27. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (McGann, Ron)
28. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom (Tim Olson)
29. 05:54 PM - Prop Governors (Bob Leffler)
30. 06:09 PM - Re: Prop Governors (Deems Davis)
31. 09:11 PM - Re: S/S heater box (AirMike)
32. 09:40 PM - Re: Door Lock (eagerlee)
33. 09:40 PM - Re: Door Lock (eagerlee)
34. 11:12 PM - VOR Antenna Experiment - report (AirMike)
Message 1
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[quote="cjhukill(at)cox.net"] The satellite triangulation was giving him a very
accurate position of my ELT, even without the GPS!
Chris Hukill
> [b]
Chris,
The Doppler/triangulation processing for the modern 406 Mhz pulsed beacons are
accurate to 2 parts per billion, giving a search area of 2 sqkm. A huge improvement
over the 121.5 Mhz tone, however, if you want 100m accuracy you need the
gps encoded feature.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309075#309075
Message 2
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I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far. Since I
cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended up just washing
them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge on top of a saw horse.
I noticed another builder's site the other day, and he appeared to just
take a sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them up before priming.
Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for priming?
Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel Fairing Alignment |
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to fabricate a tab and temporarily
attach to the fairing. If this has any affect, I'll post pictures of the
mod.
Tom Gesele 629RV
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 6:54 PM, David Maib wrote:
>
> I have seen photo's of -10's in flight with the nosewheel cocked off
> to the side a bit.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Flying
>
>
> On Aug 16, 2010, at 12:48 PM, THOMAS GESELE wrote:
>
>
> Stumbled onto an interesting observation. Discovered after adding all
> the wheel fairings, the -10 required right rudder at high cruise
> speeds. After damaging and removing the nosewheel fairing, I no longer
> needed to hold right rudder at any speed (true airspeed 2 knots slower
> than with the fairing at high speed cruise). Since nothing else on the
> plane has changed, I'm assuming the prop blast is pushing the
> nosewheel out of trail. Has anyone else had a similiar experience,
> have any suggestions on a way to slightly re-orient the nosewheel
> fairing to minimize the effect, or can come up with a different
> explination?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele - N629RV
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
Save the weight, don't prime the skins ;-)
Dave Leikam
----- Original Message -----
From: Vernon Franklin
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Primer Question
I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended up
just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge on top
of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other day, and he
appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them
up before priming.
Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for
priming?
Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
OMG!!! He said it!!!! The first shot's been fired. WW3 is sure to
follow!! :-P
Linn ...... slow morning .....
Dave Leikam wrote:
> Save the weight, don't prime the skins ;-)
>
> Dave Leikam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Vernon Franklin <mailto:vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:47 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Primer Question
>
> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so
> far. Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I
> have ended up just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with
> a Brillo sponge on top of a saw horse. I noticed another
> builder's site the other day, and he appeared to just take a
> sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them up before priming.
>
> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for
> priming?
> Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel Fairing Alignment |
You might also want to re-check the breakout force on your nosewheel.
They tend to loosen up fairly quickly when you first start flying. I
know there was some discussion on this forum a year ago (or longer)
about that being a potential cause of the nosewheel cocking to one
side during flight.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Aug 17, 2010, at 8:02 AM, THOMAS GESELE wrote:
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to fabricate a tab and
temporarily attach to the fairing. If this has any affect, I'll post
pictures of the mod.
Tom Gesele 629RV
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 6:54 PM, David Maib wrote:
>
> I have seen photo's of -10's in flight with the nosewheel cocked
> off to the side a bit.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Flying
>
>
> On Aug 16, 2010, at 12:48 PM, THOMAS GESELE wrote:
>
>
> Stumbled onto an interesting observation. Discovered after adding
> all the wheel fairings, the -10 required right rudder at high
> cruise speeds. After damaging and removing the nosewheel fairing, I
> no longer needed to hold right rudder at any speed (true airspeed 2
> knots slower than with the fairing at high speed cruise). Since
> nothing else on the plane has changed, I'm assuming the prop blast
> is pushing the nosewheel out of trail. Has anyone else had a
> similiar experience, have any suggestions on a way to slightly re-
> orient the nosewheel fairing to minimize the effect, or can come up
> with a different explination?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele - N629RV
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
Lots of archives to review on topic. The one item you want to get rid
of, is the brillo pad, if that is what you are using. It is of steel
wool, which will induce corrosion in aluminum. Scotchbrite pads are
what are used most commonly, with or without alumiprep.
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 4:47 AM, Vernon Franklin
<vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far. Since I
> cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended up just washing
> them with Alumiprep and Alodine with aBrillosponge on top of a saw horse.
> I noticed another builder's site the other day, and he appeared to just
> take a sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them up before priming.
> Is there apreferredtechnique to preparing the large skins for priming?
> Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
I use a vibrating sanders over the top of a scotchbrite pad. Works really
well to scuff the surface. Actually sanding the surface might be a bit
overkill.
Then I rinse it with a solvent like ppg's dx-330. Then alodine and/or
prime.
Works fine.
On Aug 17, 2010 6:53 AM, "Vernon Franklin" <vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far. Since
I
> cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended up just
washing
> them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge on top of a saw
horse.
> I noticed another builder's site the other day, and he appeared to just
> take a sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them up before priming.
>
> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for priming?
> Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Plane power Vs B&C Alternators |
B&C also has a gear mounted 20A standby. I installed it on my
airplane a couple of years ago. B&C alternators, starters, and
regulators may be a bit more expensive, but they are very high
quality and their customer service is excellent.
I recently changed out my B&C alternator for one from National Air
Parts because I needed a bigger alternator. The price of a rebuilt
70A alternator from National is as high as a new one from other
vendors. But, I am very impressed with the quality of this alternator
and the warranty is as good as a new one. It looks and feels like a
very heavy duty piece of equipment. It is also heavier than my old
B&C. These are certified alternators and National sells them to Uncle
Sam to use on UAV's. Customer service from Al Patron at National is
also excellent. This alternator seems to put out it's rated amperage
at idle RPM. I will report how it performs as time passes, but right
now I am delighted with it.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Aug 16, 2010, at 11:05 PM, nukeflyboy wrote:
I have a B&C in my RV-6 but went with the Plane Power for the 10.
Plane Power was not around when I built the RV-6. Both are good, and
I know personally the folks at SkyTec/Plane Power. They stand by
their products, have had excellent experience, and are really nice
people.
The B&C stuff is very pricey. Until recently B&C had the only gear
mounted standby alt but Plane Power is coming out with a nifty 20A
unit. They had it at OSH and is a much better alternative to the 8A
B&C standby alt. With 20A in standby an alternator failure becomes a
real yawner.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309061#309061
Message 10
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One thing I didn't know until I talked to an industrial painter on another
topic was that you should not alodine and then Prime if you are using an
etching primer (wash primer). If you alodine then use no primer or epoxy
primer. If using wash primer ( self-etching) the skip the alodine totally
and just clean before priming.
I'm using a combo of methods depending on what part of the airframe I'm
dealing with. I don't alodine unless I can immerse the part in the tank.
Wiping on can't insure good coverage.
Richard Bibb
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Primer Question
I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far. Since I
cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended up just washing
them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge on top of a saw horse.
I noticed another builder's site the other day, and he appeared to just take
a sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them up before priming.
Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for priming?
Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 11
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| Subject: | FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
I have a mint condition PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom for sale,
including a brand new never opened install kit and mounting tube. It's a
fully-functional working pull that I bought brand new and started flying
in 2/2006. It has the option for separate front/rear music inputs, and
up to 6 seats for the intercom. It's for sale for $1200. More pictures
available upon request.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
I used a Scotchbrite pad before the alumiprep. I would think sanding
would be too aggressive and might leave sandpaper residue behind.
Dr Fred
Vernon Franklin wrote:
> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
> Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended
> up just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge
> on top of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other
> day, and he appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins
> to scuff them up before priming.
>
> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for priming?
> Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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Sanding removes a percentage of the pure aluminum protective coating.
Sanding is not better than correct chemical preparation - only an
alternate. It does increase Adhesion but most builders can forget that
the Alclad is only 5% of the base metal covering per side and burn
through to the copper alclad. That is all too common with the RV-12
skins. Many forget how thin their skin is and sand beyond the pure
aluminum outer coating in a flash. Others get simple blemishes during
the build and try to scotchbrite them away (so their friends don't see)
- taking the pure aluminum down in the process. Best bet, Leave all
the chemistry and abrasion to the painter or your chosen process. Know
your topcoat and the recommended prep chemistry.
The RV-10 does not have the same ability to be polished for decades like
a DC-3 (they are just a tad bit thicker). It can be polished, but each
effort removes oxidation (pure aluminum oxide) in the effort for a
Nuvite Mirror Finish.
The primer used should always be compatible with the topcoat that
follows. Primer by definition has its own chemical adhesion
characteristic and is porous so that it bonds with the topcoat properly
applied at the final stage. Primer left without topcoat absorbs
hydrocarbons, dust, and moisture setting up an entirely different
experience. Some will retort they use a Primer/Sealer and so "They have
escaped the first bullet".
Numerous early RV-10 builders watched as their primer failed to adhere
to their improperly prepared surfaces. Others watch as the topcoat
delaminates upon rain or ice experiences over years of investment. One
painter at our field who has won numerous award winning RV paint jobs
uses the sandpaper and pneumatic orbital to insure bonding. He doesn't
expect to see returns for repaint and eliminates the possibility of the
owner ever chemically stripping the topcoat and hand polishing during
the skin's life. What you don't see won't hurt you... Right? I cringe
everytime I see it. I know that he is keeping repaint to a minimum, but
ouch!
Alodine is a two step chemical surface prep which etches with acid
(Phosphoric) then converts with another acid (Chromic) to harden the
soft, pure aluminum. It is a "Hazmat" and needs to be used by an
educated operator. The sealed porosity aides in primer adhesion and
topcoats which follow. Some warbirds and many certificated production
amphibs use it judiciously.
As Kelly said, under no circumstance should a metallic sponge be applied
so let the volley's return....
I used tap water once to wash off a really large prepped area. Ten
years later the paint began to shed its adhesion due to hard water
deposits under and above the primer. So follow the correct chemistry.
Painting can give lots of satisfaction, endless frustration and no
credit towards 51%, so many choose wisely on which side of the skirmish
to lob their volley.
John Cox
Part-time airline painter and former custom car refinisher before I got
smart.
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Tue 8/17/2010 4:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Primer Question
I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended up
just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge on top
of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other day, and he
appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins to scuff them
up before priming.
Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for priming?
Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
I'm going to chime in here ..... The good Dr. is correct .... sanding
can be aggressive ..... it just depends on the grit. The thin pure
aluminum coating (the alclad part) is very thin ..... and going through
it decreases the sheets natural ability to stay corrosion free. If you
use an 'aluminum brightener' no matter what the brand, flush well with
water, dry, and apply alodine with a fine grit pad .... like a green
one, not red. Once you have applied a coat of alodine with the pad, use
a rag soaked in alodine to keep the surface wet. Do not allow the
alodine to dry. Once you've met the time restraints .... some solutions
can be stronger than others and take less time .... again rinse with
water and dry. That's just about all you can do on a large sheet. If
it's a small piece, then submerge it in the alodine without doing the
pad steps. As someone else stated, you gain nothing by alodine AND
self-etching primer. One or the other, but the prep is the same. Keep
in mind that the primer weighs more than the alodine. 'Nuff said.
Linn
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> I used a Scotchbrite pad before the alumiprep. I would think sanding
> would be too aggressive and might leave sandpaper residue behind.
> Dr Fred
>
> Vernon Franklin wrote:
>> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
>> Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended
>> up just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge
>> on top of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other
>> day, and he appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins
>> to scuff them up before priming.
>> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for
>> priming? Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
>> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 15
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I've notice a lot of promotion for the S/S box. If I hadn't already installed
the Van's model, I would definitely spring for the fancy job.
However, mine is already installed and sealed, so I am pondering if it would be
worth the expense and effort to replace it vs the law of diminishing returns.
I understand the science of varying melting points of aluminum vs SS, however,
there is inherently a bunch of aluminum forward of the firewall, including the
very rivets that hold the firewall together. What I am thinking right now is
when everything is installed on the hot side of the firewall to coat it and the
heater box with some type of fire suppressing coating which to me seems cheaper
and more effective than just replacing the box itself. What am I missing?
Comments or suggestions appreciated.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309123#309123
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: S/S heater box |
Mine were installed and sealed and that's when I decided I wanted the
stainless version.
It really wasn't that bad to pop them off, clean up the area and reseal the
SS boxes.
Glad I did it.
Phil
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 10:59 AM, woxofswa <woxof@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I've notice a lot of promotion for the S/S box. If I hadn't already
> installed the Van's model, I would definitely spring for the fancy job.
>
> However, mine is already installed and sealed, so I am pondering if it
> would be worth the expense and effort to replace it vs the law of
> diminishing returns.
>
> I understand the science of varying melting points of aluminum vs SS,
> however, there is inherently a bunch of aluminum forward of the firewall,
> including the very rivets that hold the firewall together. What I am
> thinking right now is when everything is installed on the hot side of the
> firewall to coat it and the heater box with some type of fire suppressing
> coating which to me seems cheaper and more effective than just replacing the
> box itself. What am I missing?
>
> Comments or suggestions appreciated.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309123#309123
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: S/S heater box |
Myron;
I took mine off for the SS, not hard to do. The issue would be resolved
using some fire barrier cream at every opening in the firewall, If you can
find a way to assure the vents are closed and sealed than leave it alone but
the SS have a much better seal than I ever could get from the Vans ones..
There is a lip on them that deflects any forced air from slipping into the
inlets. I mentioned before about the forced heat gun and then there was the
shop vac suggestions of ways to test the air coming in when forced through a
SCAT, do that with your vents if you can't get it to stop air from coming in
than the SS from Plane innovations will give you that advantage. For me,
being in So California I don't need any more hot air coming into the cabin
in the summer so this was more important to me than fire protection.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 8:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: S/S heater box
>
> I've notice a lot of promotion for the S/S box. If I hadn't already
> installed the Van's model, I would definitely spring for the fancy job.
>
> However, mine is already installed and sealed, so I am pondering if it
> would be worth the expense and effort to replace it vs the law of
> diminishing returns.
>
> I understand the science of varying melting points of aluminum vs SS,
> however, there is inherently a bunch of aluminum forward of the firewall,
> including the very rivets that hold the firewall together. What I am
> thinking right now is when everything is installed on the hot side of the
> firewall to coat it and the heater box with some type of fire suppressing
> coating which to me seems cheaper and more effective than just replacing
> the box itself. What am I missing?
>
> Comments or suggestions appreciated.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309123#309123
>
>
>
Message 18
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Just watched 'From the Group Up' the TV series. On it they use an aggressive
sanding for paint prep and to eliminate scratches and smooth the surface.
>From what I am reading that sounds way to aggressive or are people
comfortable with that amount of sanding. For those who haven't seen, they
use a power sander 220 grist, 320 grit I think, followed by scotch bright.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer Question
I'm going to chime in here ..... The good Dr. is correct .... sanding
can be aggressive ..... it just depends on the grit. The thin pure
aluminum coating (the alclad part) is very thin ..... and going through
it decreases the sheets natural ability to stay corrosion free. If you
use an 'aluminum brightener' no matter what the brand, flush well with
water, dry, and apply alodine with a fine grit pad .... like a green
one, not red. Once you have applied a coat of alodine with the pad, use
a rag soaked in alodine to keep the surface wet. Do not allow the
alodine to dry. Once you've met the time restraints .... some solutions
can be stronger than others and take less time .... again rinse with
water and dry. That's just about all you can do on a large sheet. If
it's a small piece, then submerge it in the alodine without doing the
pad steps. As someone else stated, you gain nothing by alodine AND
self-etching primer. One or the other, but the prep is the same. Keep
in mind that the primer weighs more than the alodine. 'Nuff said.
Linn
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> I used a Scotchbrite pad before the alumiprep. I would think sanding
> would be too aggressive and might leave sandpaper residue behind.
> Dr Fred
>
> Vernon Franklin wrote:
>> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
>> Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended
>> up just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge
>> on top of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other
>> day, and he appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins
>> to scuff them up before priming.
>> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for
>> priming? Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
>> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
Are you upgrading?
--------
RV-10 #40988
http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
KLAM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309149#309149
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
Nah, selling it all off piece by piece. :)
Just kidding. Yeah, I spent some more money and bought the
newest one from PS Engineering. Costs a bit more for
Bluetooth but being a complete geek I'll always have
more toys than money so I went for it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 8/17/2010 1:03 PM, mouser wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "mouser"<mouser@mouser.org>
>
> Are you upgrading?
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40988
> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
> KLAM
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
For the EAA members out there, Ron Alexander did a webinar on painting, he
covers this topic pretty well.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=83414708001
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Greenley" <wgreenley@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Primer Question
>
> Just watched 'From the Group Up' the TV series. On it they use an
> aggressive
> sanding for paint prep and to eliminate scratches and smooth the surface.
>>From what I am reading that sounds way to aggressive or are people
> comfortable with that amount of sanding. For those who haven't seen, they
> use a power sander 220 grist, 320 grit I think, followed by scotch bright.
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 11:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer Question
>
>
> I'm going to chime in here ..... The good Dr. is correct .... sanding
> can be aggressive ..... it just depends on the grit. The thin pure
> aluminum coating (the alclad part) is very thin ..... and going through
> it decreases the sheets natural ability to stay corrosion free. If you
> use an 'aluminum brightener' no matter what the brand, flush well with
> water, dry, and apply alodine with a fine grit pad .... like a green
> one, not red. Once you have applied a coat of alodine with the pad, use
> a rag soaked in alodine to keep the surface wet. Do not allow the
> alodine to dry. Once you've met the time restraints .... some solutions
> can be stronger than others and take less time .... again rinse with
> water and dry. That's just about all you can do on a large sheet. If
> it's a small piece, then submerge it in the alodine without doing the
> pad steps. As someone else stated, you gain nothing by alodine AND
> self-etching primer. One or the other, but the prep is the same. Keep
> in mind that the primer weighs more than the alodine. 'Nuff said.
>
> Linn
>
> Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>>
>> I used a Scotchbrite pad before the alumiprep. I would think sanding
>> would be too aggressive and might leave sandpaper residue behind.
>> Dr Fred
>>
>> Vernon Franklin wrote:
>>> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
>>> Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended
>>> up just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge
>>> on top of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other
>>> day, and he appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins
>>> to scuff them up before priming.
>>> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for
>>> priming? Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
>>> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Vernon Franklin
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
Next you'll want the new Bose, they have Bluetooth to go with the PMA,
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom
>
> Nah, selling it all off piece by piece. :)
> Just kidding. Yeah, I spent some more money and bought the
> newest one from PS Engineering. Costs a bit more for
> Bluetooth but being a complete geek I'll always have
> more toys than money so I went for it.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 8/17/2010 1:03 PM, mouser wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "mouser"<mouser@mouser.org>
>>
>> Are you upgrading?
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 #40988
>> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
>> KLAM
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
I've been trying to decide whether to go with the 8000B, the 5000EX, or the 9000EX
for my panel. I've got some time before that choice needs to be made. I'll
be interested to read your comparison between your old and new audio panels
when the time comes. :)
--------
RV-10 #40988
http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
KLAM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309159#309159
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
Nope, that's why the new audio panel....I already had non Bluetooth headsets.
Now I don't need one.
Tim
On Aug 17, 2010, at 2:15 PM, "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Next you'll want the new Bose, they have Bluetooth to go with the PMA,
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 11:47 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom
>
>> Nah, selling it all off piece by piece. :)
>> Just kidding. Yeah, I spent some more money and bought the
>> newest one from PS Engineering. Costs a bit more for
>> Bluetooth but being a complete geek I'll always have
>> more toys than money so I went for it.
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>> On 8/17/2010 1:03 PM, mouser wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "mouser"<mouser@mouser.org>
>>>
>>> Are you upgrading?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> RV-10 #40988
>>> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
>>> KLAM
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Question |
Well, I know that 1950s and 60s Cessnas had neither any scuffing or
alodine, as you could read the labels on the skins when you stripped the
paint of. As near as I could tell they were simply sprayed with zinc
chromate and the finish acrylic enamel as they left the factory, with
zero primer on the inside of the skins. Only 50 years later are they
beginning to show some corrosion, except for those that lived in
corrosive atmosphere near a coast. I don't know about other builders,
but I certainly don't expect to have to worry in the 15-20 years I might
be able to fly my creation if the medical holds.
On 8/17/2010 9:46 AM, William Greenley wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "William Greenley"<wgreenley@gmail.com>
>
> Just watched 'From the Group Up' the TV series. On it they use an aggressive
> sanding for paint prep and to eliminate scratches and smooth the surface.
> > From what I am reading that sounds way to aggressive or are people
> comfortable with that amount of sanding. For those who haven't seen, they
> use a power sander 220 grist, 320 grit I think, followed by scotch bright.
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 11:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer Question
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Linn Walters<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> I'm going to chime in here ..... The good Dr. is correct .... sanding
> can be aggressive ..... it just depends on the grit. The thin pure
> aluminum coating (the alclad part) is very thin ..... and going through
> it decreases the sheets natural ability to stay corrosion free. If you
> use an 'aluminum brightener' no matter what the brand, flush well with
> water, dry, and apply alodine with a fine grit pad .... like a green
> one, not red. Once you have applied a coat of alodine with the pad, use
> a rag soaked in alodine to keep the surface wet. Do not allow the
> alodine to dry. Once you've met the time restraints .... some solutions
> can be stronger than others and take less time .... again rinse with
> water and dry. That's just about all you can do on a large sheet. If
> it's a small piece, then submerge it in the alodine without doing the
> pad steps. As someone else stated, you gain nothing by alodine AND
> self-etching primer. One or the other, but the prep is the same. Keep
> in mind that the primer weighs more than the alodine. 'Nuff said.
>
> Linn
>
> Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D."
>> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>>
>> I used a Scotchbrite pad before the alumiprep. I would think sanding
>> would be too aggressive and might leave sandpaper residue behind.
>> Dr Fred
>>
>> Vernon Franklin wrote:
>>
>>> I have been using Alumiprep, Alodine, and AKZO on the parts so far.
>>> Since I cannot soak the skins in anything large enough, I have ended
>>> up just washing them with Alumiprep and Alodine with a Brillo sponge
>>> on top of a saw horse. I noticed another builder's site the other
>>> day, and he appeared to just take a sander to the inside of the skins
>>> to scuff them up before priming.
>>> Is there a preferred technique to preparing the large skins for
>>> priming? Is sanding better than the chemical wash?
>>> Does sanding cause structural harm to the skins?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Vernon Franklin
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
I flew behind an 8000 in my last airplane (182) and can attest that it is a fine
audio panel. I might have been interested if I wasn't planning to attempt to
build my own. OTOH, you're competing against PS's new 5000EX, which is less expensive
(who needs Marker Beacons?).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309172#309172
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
If I was to upgrade my GMA-340 to a PS system, what are the things I need to consider?
Does the PS series fit a Garmin rack? Are the pinouts the same on both
units? Or is there a serious amount of rewiring required?
Pretty happy with the 340, just curious.
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Wednesday, 18 August 2010 8:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom
I flew behind an 8000 in my last airplane (182) and can attest that it is a fine
audio panel. I might have been interested if I wasn't planning to attempt to
build my own. OTOH, you're competing against PS's new 5000EX, which is less expensive
(who needs Marker Beacons?).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309172#309172
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: FS: PMA8000 Audio Panel / Intercom |
Yeah, experimentals have better options than certifieds.
I still do have a marker beacon antenna though.
I think I will lower the price though. $1000 for it.
Especially for someone with a certified plane, that
should be a pretty good deal. And, it hopefully gets
it off my hands. If nothing else, eBay will make
it go.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 8/17/2010 5:11 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob
> Turner"<bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
>
> I flew behind an 8000 in my last airplane (182) and can attest that
> it is a fine audio panel. I might have been interested if I wasn't
> planning to attempt to build my own. OTOH, you're competing against
> PS's new 5000EX, which is less expensive (who needs Marker
> Beacons?).
>
> -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB
>
>
Message 29
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Now that Van's sell both MT and Hartzell prop governors, is there any
reason to buy one over the other?
Does anyone have any experience or know of somebody that has the Harrzell?
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Governors |
Bob, call a MAJOR propeller overhauler and ask them which governor
they do the least maintenance on. then buy that governor.
Deems Davis
On 8/17/2010 5:51 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Now that Van's sell both MT and Hartzell prop governors, is there any
> reason to buy one over the other?
>
> Does anyone have any experience or know of somebody that has the Harrzell?
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: S/S heater box |
It is the largest and most vulnerable opening in your firewall. Not to criticize
Vans (their job is to get a kit out there at a reasonable price), but do you
want to be your life on a flimsy aluminum valve.
For those still building - the EXCHANGE cost is about $100.
For me it is a no-brainer - replace with SS...
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309229#309229
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here's a slight twist on the same strategy. A block that is hinged to the release
button so you can pivot it into or out of position and you won't lose it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309231#309231
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stock_handle_door_locks_rv_10_6_166.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stock_handle_door_locks_rv_10_5_200.jpg
Message 33
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here's a slight twist on the same strategy. A block that is hinged to the release
button so you can pivot it into or out of position and you won't lose it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309232#309232
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stock_handle_door_locks_rv_10_6_166.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stock_handle_door_locks_rv_10_5_200.jpg
Message 34
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| Subject: | VOR Antenna Experiment - report |
In building my RV10, I decided to bury my VOR antenna (running my Garmin SL30)
in the upper front area of the cabin top using a thin copper tape that Vans sells
as an antenna. I had checked it out on the Fallon NV VOR some time back, and
it drove the NAV functions ok, but due to my phase 1 flight restrictions, I
could not do an ILS over populated areas. Anyway today I did the Reno NV ILS
and I was sorry to find quite a few anomalies as well as a general lack of sensitivity.
By the way, it was pretty cool when the controller asked me to keep
my speed up for a trailing 737, that we could run down the ILS at 165 kts.
At this point I do not think that I will mess with the Bob Archer thing. Looks
like ugly or not that there are some cat whiskers in my RV10's future
Now the real question. Put it on top of the Vertical Stab or under the tail cone?
Any suggestions on reception or sensitivity appreciated
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309236#309236
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