Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:05 AM - Re: reliability (Danny Riggs)
2. 09:08 AM - Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 (Pascal)
3. 09:52 AM - Re: Fuel Injection (Richard Martin)
4. 10:36 AM - Re: Fuel Injection (Tim Olson)
5. 11:24 AM - Re: Fuel Injection (Robin Marks)
6. 12:01 PM - Re: Fuel Injection (Tim Olson)
7. 07:47 PM - Re: reliability (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
Message 1
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"I ran my 1971 Maverick for
500 miles in 1980 in the middle of nowwhere driving from NJ to Las
Vegas."
That's okay. "What happens in Vegas=2C stays in Vegas"!!
> From: ricksked@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: reliability
> Date: Tue=2C 24 Aug 2010 19:36:23 -0700
>
>
> I know this will get some kinda kinky response but.... Keep a pair of
> pantyhose onboard... You can fabricate a very reliable belt by cutting
> off a leg=2C stretching it tight and tying. I ran my 1971 Maverick for
> 500 miles in 1980 in the middle of nowwhere driving from NJ to Las
> Vegas. I heard of doing this on a radio show and for two bucks I
> bought a Leggs egg in my favorite color "Midnight black" and tossed it
> the trunk. Sure enough in good ol Arkansas my belt let go. It worked
> great until I reached a "real town" without white haired pink eyed
> residents where I bought a real belt. Now some would say why not buy a
> spare belt? Anyone ever been 18 and just out of tech school as a E-2
> Airmen knows why!! Belts are expensive when you only make $526 a month!!
>
> Rick
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 24=2C 2010=2C at 7:04 PM=2C Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > I sealed my spare belt with a food vacuum sealer. Kept out of
> > the light I'd think it would outlast my emergency need for a belt.
> > When I want to replace mine for maintenance=2C I'll go buy a new
> > fresh one...this sealed one can stay as a spare.
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > On 8/24/2010 8:15 PM=2C DLM wrote:
> >> I will consider the cap=3B I plan to keep the part number for the belt
> >> handy=3B but would buy when needed. Those who safety an extra alt
> >> belt to
> >> the engine may find just another weathered belt in an emergency.
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> *From:* Carl Froehlich <mailto:carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> >> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >> *Sent:* Tuesday=2C August 24=2C 2010 3:21 PM
> >> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: reliability
> >>
> >> A couple more:
> >>
> >> - Spare fuel cap. The pin connecting the tab may break. You can
> >> get
> >> the cap off with a vice grip but having a spare once you get it
> >> off
> >> makes life easier when on the road.
> >>
> >> - Spare alternator belt. An FBO may be able to help pull the
> >> prop to
> >> replace it.
> >>
> >> Carl Froehlich
> >>
> >> RV-8A (550 hrs)
> >>
> >> RV-10 (system install)
> >>
> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> >> *Sent:* Tuesday=2C August 24=2C 2010 4:10 PM
> >> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> *Subject:* RV10-List: reliability
> >>
> >> Just started to look at additional things to do that improve
> >> reliability.
> >>
> >> A check with Skytec indicates that the starters are engineered for
> >> about 5500 starts. At 2 starts per hour that should be about 2700
> >> hours. The starter can be rebuilt for about $160-200.
> >>
> >> The plane power alternator which Vans supplies=2C should have new
> >> brush assembly at 1000 hours. The replacement part assembly which
> >> includes the regulator circuitry=2C is about $50. I plan to add the
> >> assembly to my parts kit.
> >>
> >> I already carry an additional master contactor=2C a starter relay
=2C
> >> several serviceable sparkplugs and prop O-ring. The tool box
> >> contains =2C in additional to tools=2C additional wire=2C safety wi
re=2C
> >> tie
> >> wraps=2C electrical connectors=2C fuses=2C screws=2C bolts and wash
ers.
> >>
> >> Anyone else carrying additional spare parts? Many FBOs can't/won't
> >> (insurance) work on your experimental because they do not have
> >> continuing airworthiness data.
> >>
> >> N46007 at 310TT
> >>
> >> * *
> >>
> >> * *
> >>
> >> http://www.matronic================
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp
=3B
> >> --> http://www.matronics.com/c= <http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> >> >
> >>
> >> * * <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> >> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> >> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics
.com/c
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> *
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 |
--------------------------------------------------
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 10:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10
>
> We just finished building our windscreen faring so now its on to bigger
> and better things like "trimming out" the final finish of the doors,
> windows and windscreen. The gluing of the door windows was easy. The
> first one we did on the bench per the directions except we applied freshly
> mixed glue to both the plexi and the fiberglass ledge. A few days later
> we installed the door to the cabin and then: AHH!! We found 3 small
> cracks on the edge where one of the clamps held the plexi tight against
> the fiberglass ledge. We stop drilled the cracks and changed technique
> for the second door/window installation. The door was installed on the
> cabin complete with hinges and latches and trimmed to give a good flush
> fit. We used four nylon straps around the entire fuselage and cabin with
> wooden blocks to apply pressure at the window edges. This pressure was
> left in place for about 22 hours and the results were great with NO
> cracks. We then did both rear cabin windows together using !
> the four strap method of holding them in place and when we removed the
> straps and blocks we were saddened by the discovery of dozens of small
> "feathery" cracks at the pressure points. We thought of starting over
> with the rear windows but e-mailed Van's and when Scott said that other
> builders reported these cracks (Van's RV-10 with 1100 hours has them) but
> there have been ZERO failures, we decided to stress the cracks to see if
> we could get them to "run" into the center of the window. We applied heat
> to get the temperature of the window bond up to where the Summer Colorado
> sun might cause it to rise. Then we applied an ice pack to get the
> temperature down to where the lower flight levels might cause it to fall.
> An amazing result - the cracks disappeared. I don't mean that they went
> away - I mean they were VERY difficult (in some cases, impossible) to see.
> We did the windscreen with a combination of clamps on the sides and a
> strap around the cabin to give us holding pre!
> ssure across the top. We got several small cracks at the pres!
> sure poi
>
> nts of the clamps - none at the strap. Our final conclusion is that the
> cracks are caused by high clamping pressure over time and the best way to
> avoid them when using Weld-on 10 is to remove your clamps (or straps)
> after just a few hours, maybe three of four, and keep the pressure down to
> no more than is needed to keep the plexi flush with the cabin. We heated
> all our weld-on 10 bonds to stress relieve them.
>
> Paul Hahn
> #40203
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167577#167577
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
I have a precision system on my 10 year old 2000 hour RV8.
I wish I had the Air Flow because of the purge valve feature. It makes hot
starts a non event.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:44 PM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> I=92m getting ready to order an engine=85=85..
>
>
> I am looking for opinions pro/con for Precision Airmotive (Bendix) versus
> AirFlow Performance.
>
>
> =B7 Don at Airflow seems to be very active in the experimental
> community and provides great support.
>
>
> =B7 AFP requires a purge valve whereas the Precision doesn=92t.
>
>
> =B7 Precision seems to be the default injectors on the OEM from
> Van=92s, Aerosport, and a couple others.
>
>
> I just exhausted my knowledge on the subject.
>
> *
>
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> *
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Hot starts are a non-event on my Precision system on the RV-10.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 8/25/2010 11:50 AM, Richard Martin wrote:
> I have a precision system on my 10 year old 2000 hour RV8.
> I wish I had the Air Flow because of the purge valve feature. It makes
> hot starts a non event.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
>
> On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:44 PM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com
> <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>> wrote:
>
> Im getting ready to order an engine..
>
> I am looking for opinions pro/con for Precision Airmotive (Bendix)
> versus AirFlow Performance.
>
> Don at Airflow seems to be very active in the experimental
> community and provides great support.
>
> AFP requires a purge valve whereas the Precision doesnt.
>
> Precision seems to be the default injectors on the OEM from Vans,
> Aerosport, and a couple others.
>
> I just exhausted my knowledge on the subject.
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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|
Tim,
I seem to remember your observation that you believed flying LOP
was easier with the Precision unit vs. the AFP unit. Am I remembering
correctly and if so do you still feel that way?
BTW using the purge valve has really improved my hot starts. Not
using the PV in shutdown has excess fuel pouring out the waffle valve and
loading up the fuel servo.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injection
Hot starts are a non-event on my Precision system on the RV-10.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Well, that was just a thought initially...I think now we've
seen enough evidence that the james cowl just has some
pressure differences and that the ram air for the outside
of the injectors is the fix if you use a james cowl. I think
both systems would probably be just fine.
Personally, I would prefer to have one less thing to deal
with in having the purge valve, from a construction
and an operational perspective. I've put 650 hours
on my plane, and done tons and tons of hot starts. I've
found that hot starts aren't really an issue at all with
the Precision fuel injection. It just requires lean to
cut-off when you crank it, with some throttle added.
I really just never ever have a problem with that.
If you do have a purge valve, as in your case, then yeah, use
it as recommended and you should have just fine luck too.
I think they're both fine systems. I just don't think
that the purge valve adds any real value over the precision,
as a selling point...and in some people's eyes it
detracts value. Why have something you don't need is
all.
The question I have is that a couple people have commented in this
recent week about differences in injectors. I don't know if
there IS any difference between precision and AFP injectors
themselves. What I do know is that you buy your sized nossles
for your precision injectors from AFP, and that the injector itself
is just a "dumb" block of brass with a hole in it and a vent on the
side with a screen. So, in theory, there shouldn't be really any
significant difference in the injectors. I wouldn't be surprised
if people are just mistaken (or maybe I am) and they're basically
just the same thing. Now on the fuel servo end I'm sure there
are differences. Again though, I just don't see that there is
any big difference one way or the other from an operational
perspective.
We do get people putting in comments about how they like one
system over the other from their RV-4,6,7,9 experiences they've
had, but being totally different airframes and engines,
I think it's safer to look at the existing pool of over 300
RV-10's for information....and from everything I've heard
on the RV-10's, people are pretty much universally satisfied
with either system, as long as they learn how to properly
use it. People like to get all pumped up and defend their
own choice of whatever they bought, so you'll get arguments
from both sides....but in this case, I don't really think
there is one choice that you should feel much better about
than the other. They both will work fine. And, I doubt that
you'll have hot start issues with either system if you do
the proper hot start procedure. The caveat is that if you
go Precision, you have one less purge valve to deal with...and
it's probably as simple as that. Nothing to knock on AFP,
as I said, I'm sure it's great too, and hey, maybe some people
like Rick commented, really like their purge valves.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 8/25/2010 1:22 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks<robin@painttheweb.com>
>
> Tim,
> I seem to remember your observation that you believed flying LOP
> was easier with the Precision unit vs. the AFP unit. Am I remembering
> correctly and if so do you still feel that way?
> BTW using the purge valve has really improved my hot starts. Not
> using the PV in shutdown has excess fuel pouring out the waffle valve and
> loading up the fuel servo.
>
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:35 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>
> Hot starts are a non-event on my Precision system on the RV-10.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
Message 7
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|
But Rick=2C won't your legs get cold?
> From: ricksked@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: reliability
> Date: Tue=2C 24 Aug 2010 19:36:23 -0700
>
>
> I know this will get some kinda kinky response but.... Keep a pair of
> pantyhose onboard... You can fabricate a very reliable belt by cutting
> off a leg=2C stretching it tight and tying. I ran my 1971 Maverick for
> 500 miles in 1980 in the middle of nowwhere driving from NJ to Las
> Vegas. I heard of doing this on a radio show and for two bucks I
> bought a Leggs egg in my favorite color "Midnight black" and tossed it
> the trunk. Sure enough in good ol Arkansas my belt let go. It worked
> great until I reached a "real town" without white haired pink eyed
> residents where I bought a real belt. Now some would say why not buy a
> spare belt? Anyone ever been 18 and just out of tech school as a E-2
> Airmen knows why!! Belts are expensive when you only make $526 a month!!
>
> Rick
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 24=2C 2010=2C at 7:04 PM=2C Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > I sealed my spare belt with a food vacuum sealer. Kept out of
> > the light I'd think it would outlast my emergency need for a belt.
> > When I want to replace mine for maintenance=2C I'll go buy a new
> > fresh one...this sealed one can stay as a spare.
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > On 8/24/2010 8:15 PM=2C DLM wrote:
> >> I will consider the cap=3B I plan to keep the part number for the belt
> >> handy=3B but would buy when needed. Those who safety an extra alt
> >> belt to
> >> the engine may find just another weathered belt in an emergency.
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> *From:* Carl Froehlich <mailto:carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> >> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >> *Sent:* Tuesday=2C August 24=2C 2010 3:21 PM
> >> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: reliability
> >>
> >> A couple more:
> >>
> >> - Spare fuel cap. The pin connecting the tab may break. You can
> >> get
> >> the cap off with a vice grip but having a spare once you get it
> >> off
> >> makes life easier when on the road.
> >>
> >> - Spare alternator belt. An FBO may be able to help pull the
> >> prop to
> >> replace it.
> >>
> >> Carl Froehlich
> >>
> >> RV-8A (550 hrs)
> >>
> >> RV-10 (system install)
> >>
> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> >> *Sent:* Tuesday=2C August 24=2C 2010 4:10 PM
> >> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> *Subject:* RV10-List: reliability
> >>
> >> Just started to look at additional things to do that improve
> >> reliability.
> >>
> >> A check with Skytec indicates that the starters are engineered for
> >> about 5500 starts. At 2 starts per hour that should be about 2700
> >> hours. The starter can be rebuilt for about $160-200.
> >>
> >> The plane power alternator which Vans supplies=2C should have new
> >> brush assembly at 1000 hours. The replacement part assembly which
> >> includes the regulator circuitry=2C is about $50. I plan to add the
> >> assembly to my parts kit.
> >>
> >> I already carry an additional master contactor=2C a starter relay=2C
> >> several serviceable sparkplugs and prop O-ring. The tool box
> >> contains =2C in additional to tools=2C additional wire=2C safety wire
=2C
> >> tie
> >> wraps=2C electrical connectors=2C fuses=2C screws=2C bolts and washers
.
> >>
> >> Anyone else carrying additional spare parts? Many FBOs can't/won't
> >> (insurance) work on your experimental because they do not have
> >> continuing airworthiness data.
> >>
> >> N46007 at 310TT
> >>
> >> * *
> >>
> >> * *
> >>
> >> http://www.matronic================
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp=3B
> >> --> http://www.matronics.com/c= <http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
> >> >
> >>
> >> * * <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> >> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> >> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.co
m/c
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> *
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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>
>
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