Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:04 AM - Re: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors (David Maib)
2. 03:40 AM - Re: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors (Alan)
3. 04:40 AM - 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Bob Leffler)
4. 05:39 AM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Tim Olson)
5. 06:08 AM - RV-10 on Long Island NYC (Tony SESA)
6. 07:07 AM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (g.combs)
7. 07:41 AM - Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 (AirMike)
8. 08:00 AM - Re: Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 (g.combs)
9. 08:10 AM - Re: Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 (Kelly McMullen)
10. 08:27 AM - clean up your posts! (Chris Hukill)
11. 08:37 AM - Re: Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
12. 08:44 AM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
13. 08:48 AM - Re: clean up your posts! (Chris Colohan)
14. 09:04 AM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (g.combs)
15. 09:06 AM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Robin Marks)
16. 09:27 AM - Re: Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 (Jeff Carpenter)
17. 11:31 AM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Tim Olson)
18. 12:09 PM - Re: clean up your posts! (Pascal)
19. 12:23 PM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Pascal)
20. 01:22 PM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Bob Leffler)
21. 01:41 PM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Rene)
22. 02:13 PM - Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter (Kelly McMullen)
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| Subject: | Re: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors |
All of your cylinders peaked at 1476?! That would be pretty unusual in my experience
running Continentals and Lycomings LOP for the past several years. I don't
think I have ever seen all cylinders peak at the same temperature.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Aug 28, 2010, at 5:31 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>
> Carl,
> You are correct. All of my cylinders each peaked at 1476 but at different
> fuel flows. Because cylinder 5 pealed over a gallon richer than the others
> I new there was a problem with it not getting enough fuel.
> Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 6:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>
> <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>
> I've been following this tread and wonder if we are all on the same page
> regarding exhaust gas temperatures.
>
> My understanding of the ROP or LOP convention is that the actual EGT value
> is of little concern. What is of concern is each cylinders EGT relative to
> that specific cylinder's peak EGT. Considering the EGT probes work over a
> wide range of temperatures and that each probe installation varies between
> cylinders, the absolute exhaust gas temperature spread between cylinders is
> of little value other than for gross indication that you have lost a
> cylinder.
>
> For example, cylinder #1 may peak at 1450, #2 at 1475, #3 at 1500 and #4 at
> 1525. If they all peak at the same time and same fuel flow, then you have a
> perfect situation. Running my engine I look for the spread between
> cylinders of degree below each peak. The Grand Rapid EIS makes this real
> easy as the leaning page remembers peak cylinder temperature, then displays
> not actual EGT, but degrees below peak EGT for each cylinder. I suggest
> that a balance system is, when steady, all cylinders on the same side of
> peak (LOP or ROP), and the degrees below peak of each cylinder is within 20
> degrees.
>
> The other way to look at this is total engine fuel flow at each cylinder
> peak. I find this not as accurate as the fuel flow indication is 0.1 GPH
> increments and at steady operation my vary .2 GPH (other may have a more
> stable indication than mine). I believe the cylinder EGT tends to be a more
> sensitive analysis.
>
> Confirmation of balanced operation may be comparison of CHT actual
> temperatures between cylinders. Note however baffle cooling variances can
> cause some temperature spread not related to fuel flow.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (560 hrs, most done LOP)
> RV-10 (systems install)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler
> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>
>
> Tim,
> I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all the
> trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying 100 degrees
> rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle cylinder #1
> runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because they are
> the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been trouble
> shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours and is still
> under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I try flying lean of
> peak.
> My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on Monday
> when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will send the unit in
> for service.
> Alan
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 3:58 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>
>
> See now there is where it gets crazy. You KNOW without a doubt
> that there is a problem with the engine, yet you're going
> to continue to fly it that way!?!?! Why? Try telling that
> story to a few friends, how you know your fuel system
> has a problem, but you're going to go fly it anyway, and see
> what kind of reaction they give you. I understand the urge,
> but to actually KNOW there is a problem, just fix it first.
> The flow divider isn't that complicated on the precision
> system. Like Dave said, there is a delicate diaphragm
> and a couple other parts, but nothing extreme in there. Go
> super slow, take pictures, and have someone there to observe
> in case you drop something so you know how it all came apart,
> and you should be able to investigate it. On a new airplane,
> it's probably something that was in a hose that made it's
> way there and is plugging an orifice. If you don't want to
> disassemble it yourself, that's fine, and anyone can respect
> that....but calling the engine maker isn't necessarily the
> best path either....you can always call Precision directly.
> It's THEIR fuel system. The engine maker will probably have
> the answer, but you're certainly not utilizing all the
> resources you can to find the issue. Me, I'd probably
> call the local A&P and have him come over and I'd pay him
> a little cash to look at it with me. He probably has
> experience with them if he's been around a while. He may
> even have a good manual on hand (something that would be
> nice for you to have too). Then you could get it dealt with
> in short order. When it comes right down to it, you
> or someone else is either going to be disassembling the thing,
> or you're going to be shipping it off for repair/replacement,
> but there are only 2 ultimate resolutions.
>
> Flying it ROP will just guarantee that your one cylinder
> is going to be running at a different power level and
> have different cylinder pressures and things going on than
> your other cylinders. You're going to get more
> carbon fouling on your good cylinders, or cause some other
> things along the way by continuing to fly it.
>
> Sorry to sound harsh, but the last thing we need is someone
> out there flying engines in RV-10's with known defects to
> not only hurt themselves, but hurt the RV-10's reputation
> again. So far of the ones that bought it, at least two of
> the 3 that we know of that killed people can be traced
> to stupid decisions...and I guess someone has to speak up
> when they see it happening. Fuel system issues are one of
> the primary mechanical causes of homebuilt aircraft crashes.
> Stupid decisions are another major one. Combine the two
> and it just makes me cringe. Dan was pretty flippant about
> that battery terminal crimp he did when he moved that
> battery. But, he'd have had to delay that trip (the one
> that he was prepping for that cost him his life) if he'd have
> had to wait for the proper tools to crimp the wire. Looks
> like maybe waiting that extra day or few might have been
> a better choice.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 8/28/2010 2:22 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>> Dave,
>>
>> Mine is a precision silver hawk ex. No call back from Mattituck. Will
>> have to wait to Monday. Will have to continue to fly rich of peak this
>> weekend.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
>> *Sent:* Saturday, August 28, 2010 3:02 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>> Before I took the contaminated one apart, I called the engine shop to
>> find out what to expect. That was a Bendix flow divider, not an AFP. AFP
>> might walk someone through a teardown. I'd call them before I took one
>> of their dividers apart, which is what I'd recommend for anyone. After
>> that it's up to the builder to decide if he's capable or not.
>>
>> The Bendix divider was pretty simple inside. It was a few years ago but
>> I remember a fairly delicate diaphragm, a vertical stem that acts as the
>> valve, and a light spring. Just go slow and be careful, and it should go
>> OK. I actually found the bit of hose that was causing the problem but it
>> was pretty obvious, not buried deep inside one of the internal passages.
>> That was pure luck.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 11:16 AM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com
>> <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Dave, you say you changed it. That is what I did with an Airflow
>> Performance divider. They were fast and it was piece of mind insurance.
>> the aircraft ran fine afterwards. Do you support, OBAM builders opening
>> up their flow dividers.
>>
>> John Cox
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> on behalf of Dave Saylor
>> *Sent:* Thu 8/26/2010 9:32 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>> I've seen two flow divider failures in the last 5 years. One had a
>> little speck of hose liner (from a certified hose shop) jammed in the
>> stem. The engine would barely run.
>>
>> The other was discovered looking for excessive roughness LOP. We changed
>> just about everything we could think of, and finally changed the flow
>> divider just to be thorough. That fixed the problem, but we never did
>> figure out why.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 6:42 PM, Alan Mekler <amekler@metrocast.net
>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>> wrote:
>>
>> Kelly,
>>
>> My engine has had the AD done but we did find an interesting finding. We
>> did the bottle test with the injectors on and we saw less fuel coming
>> out #5 even though it had the richest injector. So now we know the
>> problem must be in the flow divider. Not sure what the next step will
>> be. Will try calling Precision tomorrow.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2010 8:07 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>> It is actually an AD on the fuel injection servos to check the security
>> of the plug on the side. Some have been found loose and hanging by the
>> safety wire.
>> AD 2008-08-14
>> SUMMARY: This document publishes in the Federal Register an amendment
>> adopting emergency
>> airworthiness directive (AD) 2008-06-51 that was sent previously to all
>> known U.S. owners and
>> operators of Lycoming Engines IO, (L)IO, TIO, (L)TIO, AEIO, AIO, IGO,
>> IVO, and HIO series
>> reciprocating engines, TCM TSIO-360-RB reciprocating engines, and
>> Superior Air Parts, Inc. IO-360
>> series reciprocating engines with certain Precision Airmotive LLC RSA-5
>> and RSA-10 series fuel
>> injection servos. This AD results from eighteen reports of fuel
>> injection servo plugs, part number
>> (P/N) 383493, that had loosened or completely backed out of the threaded
>> plug hole on the regulator
>> cover of the fuel injection servo. These servo plugs were installed with
>> servo plug gasket, P/N
>> 365533, under the plug hex-head. We are issuing this AD to prevent a
>> lean running engine, which
>> could result in a substantial loss of engine power and subsequent loss
>> of control of the airplane
>>
>> (f) Inspect the fuel injection servo plug, P/N 383493, for looseness, by
>> attempting to turn it by
>> hand, while being careful not to damage the safety wire or seal. If the
>> plug moves, it is loose.
>> (g) If the plug is not loose, go to paragraph (i) of this AD.
>> (h) If the plug is loose, do the following:
>> (1) Carefully cut and remove the safety wire that spans between the
>> servo plug and regulator
>> cover only.
>> (2) Remove the servo plug while ensuring that the gasket, P/N 365533,
>> that is behind the plug, is
>> not lost. The gasket may be slightly stuck to the regulator cover.
>> (3) Examine the threads on the servo plug and regulator cover for
>> damage. Threads should be
>> smooth and consistent, with no burrs or chips. The servo plug outer
>> diameter threads should also
>> measure within 0.7419-0.7500-inch.
>> (4) If the threads on either the servo plug or the regulator cover are
>> damaged, or do not measure
>> within the limits in paragraph (h)(3) of this AD, the servo is not
>> eligible for any installation and must
>> be replaced before further flight.
>> (5) Inspect the gasket, P/N 365533, for tears and other damage. We are
>> allowing the re-use of
>> undamaged gaskets. Replace damaged gaskets with a new gasket, P/N 365533.
>> (6) When reassembling, do not install any servo plug or regulator cover
>> that is not eligible for
>> installation. Install the gasket onto the servo plug and reassemble the
>> servo plug to the regulator
>> cover.
>> (7) Torque the servo plug to a new, higher torque of 90-100 in-lbs, to
>> help maintain the proper
>> clamp-up force against the plug and cover.
>> (8) Safety wire the servo plug with 0.025-inch diameter wire to the
>> regulator cover. Information
>> on properly safety wiring the plug can be found in Precision Airmotive
>> LLC Mandatory Service
>> Bulletin No. PRS-107, Revision 1, dated March 6, 2008.
>> (9) Inspect all other safety wire on the servo. Replace any that are
>> damaged.
>>
>>
>> On 8/22/2010 4:32 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> Which SB are you referring to?
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Thyssen
>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2010 7:24 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>> That's why you need to know the probes are OK. They may be giving you a
>> wrong signal. The coke bottle test is, undo your injector lines from the
>> injectors, put the same size glass bottle under them and turn on your
>> boost pump, fill bottle about 3/4 and see if the same amount of fuel is
>> in all the glass bottles. Normally you do it with your injectors on but
>> since you have different injectors it won't work that way.
>> Just my way of checking.
>> Patrick Thyssen
>> Have you done the SB on the throttle body. The gasket and G on plug. I
>> just checked another RV10 and he had not done it and it was loose.
>>
>>
>> --- On *Sun, 8/22/10, Alan Mekler /<amekler@metrocast.net>
>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>/* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Alan Mekler <amekler@metrocast.net> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Date: Sunday, August 22, 2010, 6:00 PM
>>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> Give me the details of the coke bottle test. I'm going to try switching
>> probes.
>>
>> The odd thing is the engine runs smooth.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Thyssen
>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2010 5:53 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>> HAVE YOU DONE THE COKE BOTTLE TEST WITHOUT THE INJECTORS. SINCE EACH
>> INJECTOR WILL BE DIFFERENT NOW. HAVE YOU LOOKED AT YOUR PROBES? Maybe
>> swap a few probes and see what you get.
>> Patrick Thyssen
>>
>> --- On *Sun, 8/22/10, Kelly McMullen /<kellym@aviating.com>
>> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>/* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Date: Sunday, August 22, 2010, 3:46 PM
>>
>> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
>>
>>
>> About the only thing left is your dry tappet clearances. Your engine
>> builder should be able to give you what those clearances are. Ideally
>> the clearances are in the middle of the allowable range and similar for
>> each
>>
> cylinder....................................................................
> .............
>>
>> Alternatively you could measure the amount of movement of each rocker
>> arm. Intakes should be the same and exhausts the same. Has anyone looked
>> inside your sump/intake manifold to ensure there is no obstruction, nor
>> anything loose in there? Something is wrong if your #3&4 peak last with
>> the leanest nozzles and #5 peaks first with the richest nozzle.
>> Still not understanding how the engine could be running smoothly with
>> that wide a difference in mixtures between cylinders.
>>
>> On 8/22/2010 7:40 AM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>
>>>
>>> Kelly,
>>> I just looked at my injectors cylinder 3 and 4 have the leanest
>>> injectors(GAMI A) while cylinder 5 has the richest injector (Gami J
> plus)
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> McMullen
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 8:13 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>
>> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
>>>
>>> Perhaps you are working on the wrong end of the problem. #3&4 are
>>> peaking last, so must be too rich. The rest of the cylinders are peaking
>>> within 0.4gph of #5. You also will need to gather measurements every 0.2
>>> gph to better detect the peaks once you get those two cylinders closer
>>> to the rest.
>>>
>>> On 8/21/2010 3:59 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>>>> Patrick,
>>>>
>>>> Before switching to the GAMIs my cylinder #5 peaked at 2.5 gallons l
>>>> than my richest cylinder #3. After changing to GAMIs (my 3^rd set) I'm
>>>> down to a 1 gallon spread. GAMI has given me the richest injector they
>>>> make for cylinder # 5 but it still peaks early.
>>>>
>>>> Here is my latest flight data flying at 7000 MSL 22 inches/ 2400 rpm.
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>> 13 12.5 12.1 11.7 11.3 11.0 10.5 10.3 Fuel flow gal/hr
>>>>
>>>> 1420 1438 1468 1474 1453 1438 1422 1403 cylinder #1
>>>>
>>>> 1381 1398 1428 1452 1447 1437 1412 1373 cylinder #2
>>>>
>>>> 1393 1409 1438 1456 1473 1468 1448 1414 cylinder #3
>>>>
>>>> 1400 1417 1449 1468 1477 1470 1450 1414 cylinder #4
>>>>
>>>> 1434 1467 1469 1443 1415 1411 1400 1435 cylinder # 5
>>>>
>>>> 1410 1430 1463 1474 1458 1441 1420 1397 cylinder #6
>>>>
>>>> other method
>>>>
>>>> cylinder #1 1472 peak @ 11.5
>>>>
>>>> cylinder #2 1451 peak@ 11.2
>>>>
>>>> cylinder #3 1472 peak @ 11.1
>>>>
>>>> cylinder#4 1477 peak @ 11.2
>>>>
>>>> cylinder #5 1473 peak @ 12.1
>>>>
>>>> cylinder #6 1474 peak @ 11.5
>>>>
>>>>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
>>>> Thyssen
>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, August 21, 2010 5:22 PM
>>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>>
>>>> ? Have you done the coke bottle check? Has anyone messed with the
>>>> lines from the spider to injectors? Are we sure the lines are the
>>>> right ones? The other thing have you had any problems with your EGT
>>>> system. Could your EGT probes be bad?
>>>> Peaking or not peaking where they should?
>>>> Just a few thoughts
>>>> Patrick Thyssen
>>>>
>>>> --- On *Sat, 8/21/10, Alan Mekler /<amekler@metrocast.net>
>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>/* wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Alan Mekler<amekler@metrocast.net> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 11:04 AM
>>>>
>>>> I have been trying the GAMI injectors( on the 4^th set now) but found
>>>> the fuel flow on the cylinders varies widely. My cylinder #5 has the
>>>> richest injector and it still peaks a gallon or more before the other
>>>> cylinders Before gamis it was 2.5 gallons.. Has any one had this
>>>> problem? Any solutions?
>>>>
>>>> GAMI does not why the fuel is so unbalanced in this engine. I have 95
>>>> hours on the engine and all compressions are good. No intake leaks.
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>> N668G
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> * *
>>>> * *
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> *http://forums.matronics.com* <http://forums.matronics.com*/>
>>>> **
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>>>> * *
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>>>>
>>>> *
>>>
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> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
> or=>_*
>>
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> or=>_*
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> or=>_*
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> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
> m/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>
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> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contr
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| Subject: | Re: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors |
David,
All were within 3 degrees of 1476.
Alan
Sent from my iPod
On Aug 29, 2010, at 6:02 AM, David Maib <dmaib@me.com> wrote:
>
> All of your cylinders peaked at 1476?! That would be pretty unusual in my experience
running Continentals and Lycomings LOP for the past several years. I
don't think I have ever seen all cylinders peak at the same temperature.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Flying
>
> On Aug 28, 2010, at 5:31 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>
>>
>> Carl,
>> You are correct. All of my cylinders each peaked at 1476 but at different
>> fuel flows. Because cylinder 5 pealed over a gallon richer than the others
>> I new there was a problem with it not getting enough fuel.
>> Alan
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
>> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 6:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>> <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>>
>> I've been following this tread and wonder if we are all on the same page
>> regarding exhaust gas temperatures.
>>
>> My understanding of the ROP or LOP convention is that the actual EGT value
>> is of little concern. What is of concern is each cylinders EGT relative to
>> that specific cylinder's peak EGT. Considering the EGT probes work over a
>> wide range of temperatures and that each probe installation varies between
>> cylinders, the absolute exhaust gas temperature spread between cylinders is
>> of little value other than for gross indication that you have lost a
>> cylinder.
>>
>> For example, cylinder #1 may peak at 1450, #2 at 1475, #3 at 1500 and #4 at
>> 1525. If they all peak at the same time and same fuel flow, then you have a
>> perfect situation. Running my engine I look for the spread between
>> cylinders of degree below each peak. The Grand Rapid EIS makes this real
>> easy as the leaning page remembers peak cylinder temperature, then displays
>> not actual EGT, but degrees below peak EGT for each cylinder. I suggest
>> that a balance system is, when steady, all cylinders on the same side of
>> peak (LOP or ROP), and the degrees below peak of each cylinder is within 20
>> degrees.
>>
>> The other way to look at this is total engine fuel flow at each cylinder
>> peak. I find this not as accurate as the fuel flow indication is 0.1 GPH
>> increments and at steady operation my vary .2 GPH (other may have a more
>> stable indication than mine). I believe the cylinder EGT tends to be a more
>> sensitive analysis.
>>
>> Confirmation of balanced operation may be comparison of CHT actual
>> temperatures between cylinders. Note however baffle cooling variances can
>> cause some temperature spread not related to fuel flow.
>>
>> Carl Froehlich
>> RV-8A (560 hrs, most done LOP)
>> RV-10 (systems install)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler
>> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:06 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all the
>> trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying 100 degrees
>> rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle cylinder #1
>> runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because they are
>> the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been trouble
>> shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours and is still
>> under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I try flying lean of
>> peak.
>> My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on Monday
>> when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will send the unit in
>> for service.
>> Alan
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 3:58 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>
>>
>> See now there is where it gets crazy. You KNOW without a doubt
>> that there is a problem with the engine, yet you're going
>> to continue to fly it that way!?!?! Why? Try telling that
>> story to a few friends, how you know your fuel system
>> has a problem, but you're going to go fly it anyway, and see
>> what kind of reaction they give you. I understand the urge,
>> but to actually KNOW there is a problem, just fix it first.
>> The flow divider isn't that complicated on the precision
>> system. Like Dave said, there is a delicate diaphragm
>> and a couple other parts, but nothing extreme in there. Go
>> super slow, take pictures, and have someone there to observe
>> in case you drop something so you know how it all came apart,
>> and you should be able to investigate it. On a new airplane,
>> it's probably something that was in a hose that made it's
>> way there and is plugging an orifice. If you don't want to
>> disassemble it yourself, that's fine, and anyone can respect
>> that....but calling the engine maker isn't necessarily the
>> best path either....you can always call Precision directly.
>> It's THEIR fuel system. The engine maker will probably have
>> the answer, but you're certainly not utilizing all the
>> resources you can to find the issue. Me, I'd probably
>> call the local A&P and have him come over and I'd pay him
>> a little cash to look at it with me. He probably has
>> experience with them if he's been around a while. He may
>> even have a good manual on hand (something that would be
>> nice for you to have too). Then you could get it dealt with
>> in short order. When it comes right down to it, you
>> or someone else is either going to be disassembling the thing,
>> or you're going to be shipping it off for repair/replacement,
>> but there are only 2 ultimate resolutions.
>>
>> Flying it ROP will just guarantee that your one cylinder
>> is going to be running at a different power level and
>> have different cylinder pressures and things going on than
>> your other cylinders. You're going to get more
>> carbon fouling on your good cylinders, or cause some other
>> things along the way by continuing to fly it.
>>
>> Sorry to sound harsh, but the last thing we need is someone
>> out there flying engines in RV-10's with known defects to
>> not only hurt themselves, but hurt the RV-10's reputation
>> again. So far of the ones that bought it, at least two of
>> the 3 that we know of that killed people can be traced
>> to stupid decisions...and I guess someone has to speak up
>> when they see it happening. Fuel system issues are one of
>> the primary mechanical causes of homebuilt aircraft crashes.
>> Stupid decisions are another major one. Combine the two
>> and it just makes me cringe. Dan was pretty flippant about
>> that battery terminal crimp he did when he moved that
>> battery. But, he'd have had to delay that trip (the one
>> that he was prepping for that cost him his life) if he'd have
>> had to wait for the proper tools to crimp the wire. Looks
>> like maybe waiting that extra day or few might have been
>> a better choice.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> On 8/28/2010 2:22 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>>> Dave,
>>>
>>> Mine is a precision silver hawk ex. No call back from Mattituck. Will
>>> have to wait to Monday. Will have to continue to fly rich of peak this
>>> weekend.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, August 28, 2010 3:02 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>
>>> Before I took the contaminated one apart, I called the engine shop to
>>> find out what to expect. That was a Bendix flow divider, not an AFP. AFP
>>> might walk someone through a teardown. I'd call them before I took one
>>> of their dividers apart, which is what I'd recommend for anyone. After
>>> that it's up to the builder to decide if he's capable or not.
>>>
>>> The Bendix divider was pretty simple inside. It was a few years ago but
>>> I remember a fairly delicate diaphragm, a vertical stem that acts as the
>>> valve, and a light spring. Just go slow and be careful, and it should go
>>> OK. I actually found the bit of hose that was causing the problem but it
>>> was pretty obvious, not buried deep inside one of the internal passages.
>>> That was pure luck.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 11:16 AM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com
>>> <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Dave, you say you changed it. That is what I did with an Airflow
>>> Performance divider. They were fast and it was piece of mind insurance.
>>> the aircraft ran fine afterwards. Do you support, OBAM builders opening
>>> up their flow dividers.
>>>
>>> John Cox
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> on behalf of Dave Saylor
>>> *Sent:* Thu 8/26/2010 9:32 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>
>>> I've seen two flow divider failures in the last 5 years. One had a
>>> little speck of hose liner (from a certified hose shop) jammed in the
>>> stem. The engine would barely run.
>>>
>>> The other was discovered looking for excessive roughness LOP. We changed
>>> just about everything we could think of, and finally changed the flow
>>> divider just to be thorough. That fixed the problem, but we never did
>>> figure out why.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>>
>>> On Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 6:42 PM, Alan Mekler <amekler@metrocast.net
>>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Kelly,
>>>
>>> My engine has had the AD done but we did find an interesting finding. We
>>> did the bottle test with the injectors on and we saw less fuel coming
>>> out #5 even though it had the richest injector. So now we know the
>>> problem must be in the flow divider. Not sure what the next step will
>>> be. Will try calling Precision tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
>> McMullen
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2010 8:07 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>
>>> It is actually an AD on the fuel injection servos to check the security
>>> of the plug on the side. Some have been found loose and hanging by the
>>> safety wire.
>>> AD 2008-08-14
>>> SUMMARY: This document publishes in the Federal Register an amendment
>>> adopting emergency
>>> airworthiness directive (AD) 2008-06-51 that was sent previously to all
>>> known U.S. owners and
>>> operators of Lycoming Engines IO, (L)IO, TIO, (L)TIO, AEIO, AIO, IGO,
>>> IVO, and HIO series
>>> reciprocating engines, TCM TSIO-360-RB reciprocating engines, and
>>> Superior Air Parts, Inc. IO-360
>>> series reciprocating engines with certain Precision Airmotive LLC RSA-5
>>> and RSA-10 series fuel
>>> injection servos. This AD results from eighteen reports of fuel
>>> injection servo plugs, part number
>>> (P/N) 383493, that had loosened or completely backed out of the threaded
>>> plug hole on the regulator
>>> cover of the fuel injection servo. These servo plugs were installed with
>>> servo plug gasket, P/N
>>> 365533, under the plug hex-head. We are issuing this AD to prevent a
>>> lean running engine, which
>>> could result in a substantial loss of engine power and subsequent loss
>>> of control of the airplane
>>>
>>> (f) Inspect the fuel injection servo plug, P/N 383493, for looseness, by
>>> attempting to turn it by
>>> hand, while being careful not to damage the safety wire or seal. If the
>>> plug moves, it is loose.
>>> (g) If the plug is not loose, go to paragraph (i) of this AD.
>>> (h) If the plug is loose, do the following:
>>> (1) Carefully cut and remove the safety wire that spans between the
>>> servo plug and regulator
>>> cover only.
>>> (2) Remove the servo plug while ensuring that the gasket, P/N 365533,
>>> that is behind the plug, is
>>> not lost. The gasket may be slightly stuck to the regulator cover.
>>> (3) Examine the threads on the servo plug and regulator cover for
>>> damage. Threads should be
>>> smooth and consistent, with no burrs or chips. The servo plug outer
>>> diameter threads should also
>>> measure within 0.7419-0.7500-inch.
>>> (4) If the threads on either the servo plug or the regulator cover are
>>> damaged, or do not measure
>>> within the limits in paragraph (h)(3) of this AD, the servo is not
>>> eligible for any installation and must
>>> be replaced before further flight.
>>> (5) Inspect the gasket, P/N 365533, for tears and other damage. We are
>>> allowing the re-use of
>>> undamaged gaskets. Replace damaged gaskets with a new gasket, P/N 365533.
>>> (6) When reassembling, do not install any servo plug or regulator cover
>>> that is not eligible for
>>> installation. Install the gasket onto the servo plug and reassemble the
>>> servo plug to the regulator
>>> cover.
>>> (7) Torque the servo plug to a new, higher torque of 90-100 in-lbs, to
>>> help maintain the proper
>>> clamp-up force against the plug and cover.
>>> (8) Safety wire the servo plug with 0.025-inch diameter wire to the
>>> regulator cover. Information
>>> on properly safety wiring the plug can be found in Precision Airmotive
>>> LLC Mandatory Service
>>> Bulletin No. PRS-107, Revision 1, dated March 6, 2008.
>>> (9) Inspect all other safety wire on the servo. Replace any that are
>>> damaged.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/22/2010 4:32 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>>>
>>> Patrick,
>>>
>>> Which SB are you referring to?
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
>> Thyssen
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2010 7:24 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>
>>> That's why you need to know the probes are OK. They may be giving you a
>>> wrong signal. The coke bottle test is, undo your injector lines from the
>>> injectors, put the same size glass bottle under them and turn on your
>>> boost pump, fill bottle about 3/4 and see if the same amount of fuel is
>>> in all the glass bottles. Normally you do it with your injectors on but
>>> since you have different injectors it won't work that way.
>>> Just my way of checking.
>>> Patrick Thyssen
>>> Have you done the SB on the throttle body. The gasket and G on plug. I
>>> just checked another RV10 and he had not done it and it was loose.
>>>
>>>
>>> --- On *Sun, 8/22/10, Alan Mekler /<amekler@metrocast.net>
>>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>/* wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Alan Mekler <amekler@metrocast.net> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Date: Sunday, August 22, 2010, 6:00 PM
>>>
>>> Patrick,
>>>
>>> Give me the details of the coke bottle test. I'm going to try switching
>>> probes.
>>>
>>> The odd thing is the engine runs smooth.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
>> Thyssen
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2010 5:53 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>
>>> HAVE YOU DONE THE COKE BOTTLE TEST WITHOUT THE INJECTORS. SINCE EACH
>>> INJECTOR WILL BE DIFFERENT NOW. HAVE YOU LOOKED AT YOUR PROBES? Maybe
>>> swap a few probes and see what you get.
>>> Patrick Thyssen
>>>
>>> --- On *Sun, 8/22/10, Kelly McMullen /<kellym@aviating.com>
>>> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>/* wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Date: Sunday, August 22, 2010, 3:46 PM
>>>
>>> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> About the only thing left is your dry tappet clearances. Your engine
>>> builder should be able to give you what those clearances are. Ideally
>>> the clearances are in the middle of the allowable range and similar for
>>> each
>>>
>> cylinder....................................................................
>> .............
>>>
>>> Alternatively you could measure the amount of movement of each rocker
>>> arm. Intakes should be the same and exhausts the same. Has anyone looked
>>> inside your sump/intake manifold to ensure there is no obstruction, nor
>>> anything loose in there? Something is wrong if your #3&4 peak last with
>>> the leanest nozzles and #5 peaks first with the richest nozzle.
>>> Still not understanding how the engine could be running smoothly with
>>> that wide a difference in mixtures between cylinders.
>>>
>>> On 8/22/2010 7:40 AM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>
>>>>
>>>> Kelly,
>>>> I just looked at my injectors cylinder 3 and 4 have the leanest
>>>> injectors(GAMI A) while cylinder 5 has the richest injector (Gami J
>> plus)
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>> McMullen
>>>> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 8:13 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>>
>>> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
>>>>
>>>> Perhaps you are working on the wrong end of the problem. #3&4 are
>>>> peaking last, so must be too rich. The rest of the cylinders are peaking
>>>> within 0.4gph of #5. You also will need to gather measurements every 0.2
>>>> gph to better detect the peaks once you get those two cylinders closer
>>>> to the rest.
>>>>
>>>> On 8/21/2010 3:59 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>>>>> Patrick,
>>>>>
>>>>> Before switching to the GAMIs my cylinder #5 peaked at 2.5 gallons l
>>>>> than my richest cylinder #3. After changing to GAMIs (my 3^rd set) I'm
>>>>> down to a 1 gallon spread. GAMI has given me the richest injector they
>>>>> make for cylinder # 5 but it still peaks early.
>>>>>
>>>>> Here is my latest flight data flying at 7000 MSL 22 inches/ 2400 rpm.
>>>>>
>>>>> Alan
>>>>>
>>>>> 13 12.5 12.1 11.7 11.3 11.0 10.5 10.3 Fuel flow gal/hr
>>>>>
>>>>> 1420 1438 1468 1474 1453 1438 1422 1403 cylinder #1
>>>>>
>>>>> 1381 1398 1428 1452 1447 1437 1412 1373 cylinder #2
>>>>>
>>>>> 1393 1409 1438 1456 1473 1468 1448 1414 cylinder #3
>>>>>
>>>>> 1400 1417 1449 1468 1477 1470 1450 1414 cylinder #4
>>>>>
>>>>> 1434 1467 1469 1443 1415 1411 1400 1435 cylinder # 5
>>>>>
>>>>> 1410 1430 1463 1474 1458 1441 1420 1397 cylinder #6
>>>>>
>>>>> other method
>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder #1 1472 peak @ 11.5
>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder #2 1451 peak@ 11.2
>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder #3 1472 peak @ 11.1
>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder#4 1477 peak @ 11.2
>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder #5 1473 peak @ 12.1
>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder #6 1474 peak @ 11.5
>>>>>
>>>>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
>>>>> Thyssen
>>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, August 21, 2010 5:22 PM
>>>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>>>
>>>>> ? Have you done the coke bottle check? Has anyone messed with the
>>>>> lines from the spider to injectors? Are we sure the lines are the
>>>>> right ones? The other thing have you had any problems with your EGT
>>>>> system. Could your EGT probes be bad?
>>>>> Peaking or not peaking where they should?
>>>>> Just a few thoughts
>>>>> Patrick Thyssen
>>>>>
>>>>> --- On *Sat, 8/21/10, Alan Mekler /<amekler@metrocast.net>
>>> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>/* wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> From: Alan Mekler<amekler@metrocast.net> <mailto:amekler@metrocast.net>
>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
>>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>> Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 11:04 AM
>>>>>
>>>>> I have been trying the GAMI injectors( on the 4^th set now) but found
>>>>> the fuel flow on the cylinders varies widely. My cylinder #5 has the
>>>>> richest injector and it still peaks a gallon or more before the other
>>>>> cylinders Before gamis it was 2.5 gallons.. Has any one had this
>>>>> problem? Any solutions?
>>>>>
>>>>> GAMI does not why the fuel is so unbalanced in this engine. I have 95
>>>>> hours on the engine and all compressions are good. No intake leaks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Alan
>>>>>
>>>>> N668G
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> * *
>>>>> * *
>>>>> **
>>>>> **
>>>>> **
>>>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>>> **
>>>>> **
>>>>> *http://forums.matronics.com* <http://forums.matronics.com*/>
>>>>> **
>>>>> **
>>>>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>>>> * *
>>>>> *
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *
>>>>
>>> >atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> <http://gtatronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>"
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.co=======================
>>> <http://www.matronics.co========================/>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>>
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * Navigator to*
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *much much*
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>>
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>> m/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>
>>> * *
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>> <http://forums.matronics.com/>>http://forums.matronics.com
>> <http://forums.matronics.com/>*
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> =========== *
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List< -->
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>*
>>>
>>> *_
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_
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>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> <http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/b%3e%3cfont%20col
>> or=>_*
>>>
>>> *_http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/>_*
>>>
>>> *_http://www.matronics.com/contribution_*
>>>
>>> *_ _*
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * *
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>>>
>>>
>> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
>> m/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>
>>> *href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com*
>>>
>>>
>> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contr
>> ibution*
>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
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>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil filter in
the standard location?
Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off any more
difficult?
Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
I'm going down all my list of options that I've collected over the years of
my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to reduce the budget.
Thanks,
bob
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
I was dead set on wanting a standby alternator
originally, but after a while I came to realize
that with as much backup battery as I put in
I really don't need one. That is a significant
savings right there. Then the standard straight
oil adapter works fine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 8/29/2010 6:19 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil filter
> in the standard location?
>
> Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off any
> more difficult?
>
> Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
>
> Im going down all my list of options that Ive collected over the years
> of my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to reduce the
> budget.
>
> Thanks,
>
> bob
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-10 on Long Island NYC |
Hey people. I'm in Mattituck, NYC for the day. Judy on the off chance, there aren't
any RV10's flying around here are there? I'm on 631 9229561 if there are.
Would love to have a walk around.
Thanks
Tony
Empennage part done
QB wing and fuse on the way
Do not archive
Sent from my phone
On Aug 29, 2010, at 8:35 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> I was dead set on wanting a standby alternator
> originally, but after a while I came to realize
> that with as much backup battery as I put in
> I really don't need one. That is a significant
> savings right there. Then the standard straight
> oil adapter works fine.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 8/29/2010 6:19 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>> For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil filter
>> in the standard location?
>>
>> Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off any
>> more difficult?
>>
>> Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
>>
>> Im going down all my list of options that Ive collected over the years
>> of my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to reduce the
>> budget.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> bob
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Bob oil filter is easy to get on and off
In the standard location with the backup
Alternator.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:19 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil
> filter in the standard location?
>
>
> Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off
> any more difficult?
>
>
> Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
>
>
> I=99m going down all my list of options that I=99ve
collected over
> the years of my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to
> reduce the budget.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> bob
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 |
The word that I heard (do not know - rumor or fact) was that Vans tested a prototype
cabin/plane with normally installed windows and when dropped on its top,
the windows popped out and the the cabin deformed. The word is that they then
did it with weld-on adhered windows and the windows stayed in place and the cabin
did not deform.
Truth or rumor that is what swayed my decision to use weld-on. Does anyone know
the facts?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=310478#310478
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 |
I used a Lord urethane adhesive to install my windows. I did some test
With it and the Weld on and it out performed the weld on. It also does
not
Cure as hard as the weld on so it will allow joint to flex a little
and not crack
Around window edge. Time will tell but
So far so good. It is also much easier
To use than weld on. It cleans up with
Ppg dt870 urethane reducer and will not attack the acrylic as weld on
does.
I used one with a 20 minute work time.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Aug 29, 2010, at 10:41 AM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> The word that I heard (do not know - rumor or fact) was that Vans
> tested a prototype cabin/plane with normally installed windows and
> when dropped on its top, the windows popped out and the the cabin
> deformed. The word is that they then did it with weld-on adhered
> windows and the windows stayed in place and the cabin did not deform.
> Truth or rumor that is what swayed my decision to use weld-on. Does
> anyone know the facts?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - finally done
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=310478#310478
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 |
Geoff, can you advise on supply sources? Perhaps automotive window or
body shops?
On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 7:59 AM, g.combs <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
>
> I used a Lord urethane adhesive to install my windows. I did some test
> With it and the Weld on and it out performed the weld on. It also does not
> Cure as hard as the weld on so it will allow joint to flex a little and not
> crack
> Around window edge. Time will tell but
> So far so good. It is also much easier
> To use than weld on. It cleans up with
> Ppg dt870 urethane reducer and will not attack the acrylic as weld on does.
> I used one with a 20 minute work time.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2010, at 10:41 AM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> The word that I heard (do not know - rumor or fact) was that Vans tested a
>> prototype cabin/plane with normally installed windows and when dropped on
>> its top, the windows popped out and the the cabin deformed. The word is that
>> they then did it with weld-on adhered windows and the windows stayed in
>> place and the cabin did not deform.
>> Truth or rumor that is what swayed my decision to use weld-on. Does anyone
>> know the facts?
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B - finally done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=310478#310478
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | clean up your posts! |
Here's my annual pleading for everyone to please post a new message
instead of replying directly to a previous post. The bandwidth that this
duplication of messages requires make it's unpleasant to read on a fast
internet connection at home, and not worth the effort to read on an
IPhone or similar device. PLEASE everyone, just start a new message,
with the same header, and don't keep re-sending the originals!!!
Chris Hukill
blurry eyed and with a sprained scrolling finger
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on |
10
For those on the fence concerning Weld-on - I bought some a little
over a year ago and used it about 5 months ago. No cracking so far (not
flying).
Qualitatively it seems to be a helluva adhesive for plexi in that it
really bonds with it while simultaneously bonding with fiberglass. Way
beyond epoxy. Seems almost better than the plexi to plexi bond you get
with MEK. But no data or facts here, just casual testing.
I used the aluminum finger method and no straps. Didn't try to force
anything together. Just trued up the fiberglass surface as best as I
could, left a good healthy gap around the edge, glopped it on, cleaned
it up while curing with a 50:50 acetone paint thinner mix, removed
most/all of the fingers within an hour or so. Glassed over the edges
with very thin cloth. Still sanding.
It was a tough decision to make in the face of all the warnings but
didn't want to waste the already purchased product. The Vans solution
may not be ideal but I was confident I could make it work with some
care. Geoff seems to have one of the best thought out alternatives but
my experience suggests the Weld-on can work just fine with some care
exercised.
The only warning I have is get your stuff all laid out, walk thru your
routine, and don't break for coffee until done. The stuff does setup
quickly, the stringy stuff is hard to clean up if you start messing up
and let the mess cure. I used my life partner to help with the first
window but was able to do the rest of it single handed.
Oh, and the stuff has a strong smell. I used an organic filter type
mask which blocked the odor but don't know if it blocked any toxicity.
I sealed up the mixing jar, rags and scrap ASAP and got them out of the
shop. If I had my fresh air system then, I would have used it.
Just a data point.
Bill Watson
On 8/29/2010 10:41 AM, AirMike wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike"<Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
>
> The word that I heard (do not know - rumor or fact) was that Vans tested a prototype
cabin/plane with normally installed windows and when dropped on its top,
the windows popped out and the the cabin deformed. The word is that they then
did it with weld-on adhered windows and the windows stayed in place and the
cabin did not deform.
> Truth or rumor that is what swayed my decision to use weld-on. Does anyone know
the facts?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - finally done
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=310478#310478
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
It sure doesn't look easy. Haven't gotten there yet but wondering if
there is some technique involved?
I use a 6 foot plastic 'gutter' on my Maule to keep it all clean... and
band aids nearby for the knuckles.
Bill Watson
On 8/29/2010 10:06 AM, g.combs wrote:
> Bob oil filter is easy to get on and off
> In the standard location with the backup
> Alternator.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: clean up your posts! |
On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:27 AM, Chris Hukill <cjhukill@cox.net> wrote:
> PLEASE everyone, just start a new message, with the same header, and
> don't keep re-sending the originals!!!
>
I'm probably one of the guilty ones -- Gmail cleans up everyone's posts as
you read them, meaning you don't have this problem (and forget to clean
things up for people not using Gmail)...
Sorry 'bout that.
Chris
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
I learned a trick from the mechanic on my field. First i put a few
rags under filter area for drips. Then loosen filter to were you can
turn by hand then Take a plastic shopping bag and put over filter you
can then find various spots to hook bag handles to hold in place. I
then spin filter off from outside the bag. Inside bag if you can.
Oil goes in bag filter goes in bag remove bag with oil a filter. It work
Good. A little awkward at first but after
A few oil changes you get the procedure down. One thing make sure
You remove saftey wire remains so
It does not tear bag.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Aug 29, 2010, at 11:43 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> wrote:
> >
>
> It sure doesn't look easy. Haven't gotten there yet but wondering
> if there is some technique involved?
>
> I use a 6 foot plastic 'gutter' on my Maule to keep it all clean...
> and band aids nearby for the knuckles.
>
> Bill Watson
>
> On 8/29/2010 10:06 AM, g.combs wrote:
>> Bob oil filter is easy to get on and off
>> In the standard location with the backup
>> Alternator.
>>
>> Geoff
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
The 90 degree makes the process much easier and cleaner. There is also a
firewall mounted oil filter adapter that is simple to use and I believe less
expensive. No mess when removing the filter and the oil nearly all drains
back into the case with these devices.
When I have had the straight filter I placed a "canoe" shaped cutout of a
plastic soda bottle to collect any dripping oil this was about 50% effective
when considering the number of times I spilled some oil when removing the
bottle. Still not ideal.
Good luck,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
It sure doesn't look easy. Haven't gotten there yet but wondering if
there is some technique involved?
I use a 6 foot plastic 'gutter' on my Maule to keep it all clean... and
band aids nearby for the knuckles.
Bill Watson
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: lessons learned installing plexiglas with Weld-on 10 |
That word was from me Mike... after a conversation with the windscreen
manufacturer. It still qualifies as second hand information, so take
it for what ever you might think it's worth. Here's my post on Weld-
On 10:
>> As you may know, I attempted to install my left side door window
>> last week with somewhat disastrous results. As best I can tell, my
>> shop was too hot (about 85 degrees) and the Weld-on 10 set up too
>> quickly. The bond to the fiberglass was perfect, but I had voids
>> between the window and the dried Weld-on 10 in over half of the
>> bonding area. I had also failed to remove the masking tape from
>> the inside of the window soon enough and had a fair amount of
>> masking tape trapped by the Weld-on bead.
>> My initial thought was to try to save the window by injecting epoxy
>> into the gaps (as some have done with apparent success), but after
>> discussions with Vans, the window manufacturer and tech support by
>> the makers of Weld-on 10, I decided to route out the window and
>> start over. There are some things I learned from these discussions
>> that are worth sharing.
>> Vans was not willing to say that the injected epoxy approach would
>> work and referred me to the window manufacturer, Jeff from Airplane
>> Plastics in Ohio. Jeff spent a good deal of time with me on the
>> phone. He initially thought the injected epoxy idea might work and
>> suggested I use Scotch Weld 2216 to accomplish the task. As we
>> discussed the situation further, I was able to communicate that
>> what we were really trying to do in this case was bond the window
>> to the dried Weld-on 10... not the window to the fiberglass. He
>> thought that could still work... as long as I could scuff up the
>> Weld-on 10!
>> So, I was back to square one. We started to discuss alternatives
>> to Weld-on 10 for window installation. He confessed that it had
>> been a long time since he had actually installed a window... then
>> recollected that the windows would pop out during the structural
>> roll over test on the RV-10 until Vans switched to Weld-on 10 to
>> bond them in. With Weld-on 10, the window would break before the
>> bond would. As I understood the conversation, Weld-on 10 was an
>> important component of the plane passing the test. This made my
>> decision to start over again certain.
>> With that, Jeff suggested I route it out with an Onsrud carbide
>> double flute 1/2" x 1/2" bit (I wound up using a similar bit I had
>> in my router and it worked well), I said good bye and ponied up the
>> $150 to Vans for another window.
>> I also made a call to tech support at IPS, the makers of Weld-on
>> 10, hoping to find another product that would stay open longer.
>> Here's what I learned:
>> Weld-on 10 stays open the longest of any product they have for this
>> application
>> At 70 degrees, there should be 15-20 minutes of time to get the job
>> done (I had about 5 minutes at 85 degrees)
>> Be certain you are using product less than one year from the
>> manufacture date as the working time decreases with age
>> They do make a dispensing gun that mixes while dispensing for $300-
>> $400. Weld-on 10 is packed in to a cartridge for this purpose and
>> called Weld-on 811.
>> I've also combed through the archives and had I done that sooner
>> might have avoided some of these problems. Both Lew Gallagher and
>> John Gonzalez had very useful posts (hindsight is 20/20) in early
>> January of this year.
>> I'm going to wait until the fires in our local mountains have
>> stopped burning and I'm able to keep the temperature in the shop at
>> or below 70 degrees before I try again. I'll get a second set of
>> hands to spread the Weld-on 10 more quickly and be sure to pull up
>> the masking tape once the window is down securely. The gun seems a
>> bit pricey and I imagine I can find a way to spread the Weld-on 10
>> quickly and accurately without too much effort or expense.
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> one step forward... two steps back
All of my windows and my windscreen are now installed. I used the
Lord Adhesive for the windows and Weld-On 10 for the windscreen. I
tested the Lord Adhesive and found it to be weaker than the Weld-On
10, but glassed over the bonded edges so I don't feel I've got an
issue there. Chemical Concepts, the source I used for the Lord
Adhesive, no longer stocks it. The last batch they sent me was out of
date and I returned it.
If I had to do it all over again, I would use the Weld-On 10 on a sub
80 degree day with a second set of hands to help me through it. Your
windows must fit well and require little to no coercion to stay in
place to avoid cracking.... and keep the acetone away from the Plexi.
The aluminum finger method works well to hold things together while
curing.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Going up on the gear
On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:41 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> The word that I heard (do not know - rumor or fact) was that Vans
> tested a prototype cabin/plane with normally installed windows and
> when dropped on its top, the windows popped out and the the cabin
> deformed. The word is that they then did it with weld-on adhered
> windows and the windows stayed in place and the cabin did not deform.
> Truth or rumor that is what swayed my decision to use weld-on. Does
> anyone know the facts?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - finally done
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=310478#310478
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Here is a poor picture of how I catch the oil. I start by putting a
rag under the filter over the stuff below, just in case. Then
I have a clear tupperware rectangular pan that I cut into a
wedge shaped taper and it slides right in under the filter.
I spin off the filter, and just remove it right away.
Then wipe the sealing face, and spin on a new filter with
a little of that dow compound (can't remember the number off hand)
to lubricate the seal. Spin it on and tighten it and safety
wire. The filter takes maybe 3 minutes to deal with from
start to finish.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20060601/RV200606010065.html
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20060601/RV200606010069.html
The 2 photos above have the kelly filter (won't buy those again)
that I tried. This is what I use now:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20060601/RV200606010075.html
You can see in one of those photos that the straight adapter has
a lip that overhangs the pan, so I don't spill anything at all.
There are all sorts of puncture drains and stuff that you can use
to drain the filter before pulling it, but I've found that it's
quick for me to just yank the filter and get a new one in place.
Then I can pull the old filter and pan together and let them
drain into the oil pan that I put under the plane to catch
into a sealed container.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 8/29/2010 11:04 AM, g.combs wrote:
>
> I learned a trick from the mechanic on my field. First i put a few rags
> under filter area for drips. Then loosen filter to were you can turn by
> hand then Take a plastic shopping bag and put over filter you can then
> find various spots to hook bag handles to hold in place. I then spin
> filter off from outside the bag. Inside bag if you can.
> Oil goes in bag filter goes in bag remove bag with oil a filter. It work
> Good. A little awkward at first but after
> A few oil changes you get the procedure down. One thing make sure
> You remove saftey wire remains so
> It does not tear bag.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2010, at 11:43 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> It sure doesn't look easy. Haven't gotten there yet but wondering if
>> there is some technique involved?
>>
>> I use a 6 foot plastic 'gutter' on my Maule to keep it all clean...
>> and band aids nearby for the knuckles.
>>
>> Bill Watson
>>
>> On 8/29/2010 10:06 AM, g.combs wrote:
>>> Bob oil filter is easy to get on and off
>>> In the standard location with the backup
>>> Alternator.
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: clean up your posts! |
It also makes it harder to locate a response in the future via the
archives. Ask me how I know.
Pascal
From: Chris Hukill
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: clean up your posts!
Here's my annual pleading for everyone to please post a new message
instead of replying directly to a previous post. The bandwidth that this
duplication of messages requires make it's unpleasant to read on a fast
internet connection at home, and not worth the effort to read on an
IPhone or similar device. PLEASE everyone, just start a new message,
with the same header, and don't keep re-sending the originals!!!
Chris Hukill
blurry eyed and with a sprained scrolling finger
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Bob;
I just went out and looked, unlike my car, the filter is on the top side
of the back and very easy to get to, forget the 90 degree not needed at
all in my opinion.
I stuck my hand under the filter as there is the concern of oil dripping
down the complete rear, looks like plenty of space to put something
there to catch the oil as the filter is removed.
Pascal
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 4:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil filter
in the standard location?
Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off any
more difficult?
Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
I'm going down all my list of options that I've collected over the years
of my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to reduce the
budget.
Thanks,
bob
Message 20
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| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Do you have an alternator on the vacuum pad?
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
Bob;
I just went out and looked, unlike my car, the filter is on the top side of
the back and very easy to get to, forget the 90 degree not needed at all in
my opinion.
I stuck my hand under the filter as there is the concern of oil dripping
down the complete rear, looks like plenty of space to put something there to
catch the oil as the filter is removed.
Pascal
From: Bob Leffler <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 4:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil filter in
the standard location?
Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off any more
difficult?
Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
I'm going down all my list of options that I've collected over the years of
my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to reduce the budget.
Thanks,
bob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 21
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| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Bob, I have a standby alternator and the standard filter setup. It is not
hard change the oil. I use old rags, put them under the filter and not
problems. I think I am going to try the plastic bag method.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
Do you have an alternator on the vacuum pad?
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
Bob;
I just went out and looked, unlike my car, the filter is on the top side of
the back and very easy to get to, forget the 90 degree not needed at all in
my opinion.
I stuck my hand under the filter as there is the concern of oil dripping
down the complete rear, looks like plenty of space to put something there to
catch the oil as the filter is removed.
Pascal
From: Bob Leffler <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 4:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
For those that have a IO-540-D4A5, how easy is to change the oil filter in
the standard location?
Does the standby alternator make getting the oil filter on and off any more
difficult?
Would you recommend a 90 degree oil filter adapter?
I'm going down all my list of options that I've collected over the years of
my build and trying to eliminate as many as possible to reduce the budget.
Thanks,
bob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
If you have your plane hangared, the easiest way to deal with the oil
filter is to drain the oil overnight. With 12 hours or more, there will
be only a tablespoon or so of oil left in the filter, and a couple paper
towels under the filter will catch it.
On 8/29/2010 9:04 AM, g.combs wrote:
> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> I learned a trick from the mechanic on my field. First i put a few
> rags under filter area for drips. Then loosen filter to were you can
> turn by hand then Take a plastic shopping bag and put over filter you
> can then find various spots to hook bag handles to hold in place. I
> then spin filter off from outside the bag. Inside bag if you can.
> Oil goes in bag filter goes in bag remove bag with oil a filter. It work
> Good. A little awkward at first but after
> A few oil changes you get the procedure down. One thing make sure
> You remove saftey wire remains so
> It does not tear bag.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2010, at 11:43 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> It sure doesn't look easy. Haven't gotten there yet but wondering if
>> there is some technique involved?
>>
>> I use a 6 foot plastic 'gutter' on my Maule to keep it all clean...
>> and band aids nearby for the knuckles.
>>
>> Bill Watson
>>
>> On 8/29/2010 10:06 AM, g.combs wrote:
>>> Bob oil filter is easy to get on and off
>>> In the standard location with the backup
>>> Alternator.
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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