RV10-List Digest Archive

Sat 10/09/10


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:47 AM - Re: How much paint for a whole '10? (Lew Gallagher)
     2. 07:25 AM - Re: How much paint for a whole '10? (Pascal)
     3. 10:57 AM - Making the move (Eric_Kallio)
     4. 11:26 AM - Re: How much paint for a whole '10? (Bill Watson)
     5. 01:21 PM - Re: How much paint for a whole '10? (Bill Watson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:47:29 AM PST US
    From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
    Hey Bill, I THINK it was 5 gal. of white, one of blue, and a quart of red. I'm not positive, cuz I kept running out and sending Wes back to the paint store for more! I was shocked at how much more surface there is on a plane than a car -- not anal enough to do the math, just started shooting. I typically shoot three light coats of final with 20-30 min. between coats. That eliminates runs, fills rivet heads, etc. I don't have a clue as to mils. By the way, I've not had any problems with the paint (acrylic enamel) except for one item. I made the false assumption that the steps that came primed from Van's would have been professionally primed, so I did not strip them and do my process that I did on everything else (self etch primer, epoxy primer, final coat). Now, six months later, my paint has chunked off at the joint of the step and the down leg, because their primer did not bond sufficiently to the steel. So I would recommend taking those down to metal and bring them back up. My process of grinding a shallow in both plexi and glass around all windows and glassing in a half inch of fiberglass over the joint has resulted in a joint that is still as perfect as it was the day I painted it. No cracks after a hot summer. I'm very pleased with that. I'd love to see pictures as you paint -- either post, private email, or maybe I can get doped up enough to make the flight up to visit with Wes. Later, - Lew


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:25:07 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
    I'm using Stewarts system. So far very clean and smooth without major work, I have done one test piece (leg pants) and think I have enough paint on it that it's white and shiny. They told me 2 gallons and truthfully, the paint goes on very thin, 4 coats last being the thickest (1.75 on the fluid nozzle of my AOM K1) so I can see that being a possibility. I mentioned to their excellent support that I thought I needed thicker . They send a sample of what each layer should look like and they told me I would be wasting paint if I applied more than that. In other words, I did it right and it will probably be 2-2.5 gallons for me of all white, but for you the paint may need to be thicker and hence need more. My paint is water based so I add another 25% to the mix, hence it going on so thin. I'll give a paint report in the future for anyone who is a looking for an easy and home safe paint option. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 8:45 PM Subject: RV10-List: How much paint for a whole '10? > > I've started painting using a HVLP 3M/Accuspray gun and Axis turbine to > shoot an Imron Elite Polyurethane single stage. It's going well so far. > The ailerons and flaps are painted. > > For those of you that have painted, how many gallons did you use (or would > use if painting the entire aircraft in 1 color)? > > If I were to do it all in one color, I'd roughly estimate 3.5 to 4 gallons > at the rate I'm going. Seems like a lot. Lohle's estimate was 2 gallons > of white but that is a different system. > > The Imron tech sheet recoomends 1.8 to 2.2 mils. Unfortunately there's > no where to measure my paint thickness on the ailerons and flaps. I know > I shot a an access panel at 3.0 mils but I was trying to go extra heavy on > it as a test. So I know I'm doing less that 3.0 mils but probably more > than 2.2 on the rest of the job so far. > > Bill "I am curious " Watson > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:57:21 AM PST US
    Subject: Making the move
    From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
    Today was the big day. Time to move the project to the hanger. Weather was perfect and with 5 good friends and a trailer the event passed without a hitch. Even managed to get the wings in place for fitting of the wingroot fairing. back out there tomorrow to finish the wing installation and getting the tail feathers in place. The end is near. Still a little work to do on the doors, but after some vacation and working on other tasks, I am ready to get back at them. Eric Kallio Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315215#315215 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/in_the_hanger_with_the_wings_hung_895.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/on_the_trailer_900.jpg


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:26:18 AM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
    Thanks for that - especially the tip about the step. I've been documenting the paint on my Kitlog site under "Painting A-Z" with pics. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224 You are more than welcome to flight up and visit. Love to see the plane. I think you know I'm at 8NC8 and I'm working here just about every day.... and the weather is beautiful. Bill "prepping the wings" Watson 919-824-4179 On 10/9/2010 8:43 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Bill, > > I THINK it was 5 gal. of white, one of blue, and a quart of red. I'm > not positive, cuz I kept running out and sending Wes back to the paint > store for more! I was shocked at how much more surface there is on a > plane than a car -- not anal enough to do the math, just started > shooting. I typically shoot three light coats of final with 20-30 > min. between coats. That eliminates runs, fills rivet heads, etc. I > don't have a clue as to mils. > > By the way, I've not had any problems with the paint (acrylic enamel) > except for one item. I made the false assumption that the steps that > came primed from Van's would have been professionally primed, so I did > not strip them and do my process that I did on everything else (self > etch primer, epoxy primer, final coat). Now, six months later, my > paint has chunked off at the joint of the step and the down leg, > because their primer did not bond sufficiently to the steel. So I > would recommend taking those down to metal and bring them back up. > > My process of grinding a shallow in both plexi and glass around all > windows and glassing in a half inch of fiberglass over the joint has > resulted in a joint that is still as perfect as it was the day I > painted it. No cracks after a hot summer. I'm very pleased with that. > > I'd love to see pictures as you paint -- either post, private email, > or maybe I can get doped up enough to make the flight up to visit with > Wes. > > Later, - Lew >


    Message 5


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    Time: 01:21:40 PM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
    Seems like all the systems are or can be done differently. This Imron Elite single stage, if applied per the tech sheets, goes on with a cross coat. That's 1 wet coat in one direction immediately (5 secs to a couple of mins) followed by a slightly drier coat in the other. It's not meant to be thinned. It's not meant to be sanded or otherwise touched. No clear coat. Using this Accuspray/Citation/ bottom feed pressure cup combination from AC Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/cite4.php I have a fixed sort of setup. Using the fluid nozzle supplied (1.1) and a fixed air supply (I can only restrict but run it full out), it performs in a pre-determined way. Using the Imron per spec gives a certain paint delivery and minimal overspray. The only real variables are spray pattern and the speed I move the gun. I've played with fluid nozzle size and thinning some of the high fill primer I used. In the end, I'm using the 1.1 and adding 5% thinner per the tech sheet. Looks good so far with a slight amount of orange peel comparable to what I see on many new cars. Will definitely will go thru more paint than I expected but it seems right. Definitely a toxic, not home safe product. With fresh air respirator and ventilated booth, it's fine. Thanks for the feedback. Bill Watson On 10/9/2010 10:20 AM, Pascal wrote: > > I'm using Stewarts system. So far very clean and smooth without major > work, I have done one test piece (leg pants) and think I have enough > paint on it that it's white and shiny. > They told me 2 gallons and truthfully, the paint goes on very thin, 4 > coats last being the thickest (1.75 on the fluid nozzle of my AOM K1) > so I can see that being a possibility. I mentioned to their excellent > support that I thought I needed thicker . They send a sample of what > each layer should look like and they told me I would be wasting paint > if I applied more than that. In other words, I did it right and it > will probably be 2-2.5 gallons for me of all white, but for you the > paint may need to be thicker and hence need more. > My paint is water based so I add another 25% to the mix, hence it > going on so thin. > I'll give a paint report in the future for anyone who is a looking for > an easy and home safe paint option. > Pascal >




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