Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:16 AM - Overhead consoles and headliners (Michael Kraus)
2. 06:54 AM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (Bob Leffler)
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (Lew Gallagher)
4. 07:30 AM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (Sohrab Kermanj)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (Carl Froehlich)
6. 07:59 AM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (Pascal)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (effectus@rogers.com)
8. 02:41 PM - Re: Overhead consoles and headliners (Robin Marks)
9. 04:26 PM - Airflow control on the Oil Cooler (Phillip Perry)
10. 04:55 PM - Re: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler (Robin Marks)
11. 05:55 PM - Re: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler (Alan Mekler)
12. 06:50 PM - wire ties, NACA vents (Rick Lark)
13. 07:29 PM - Re: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler (Don McDonald)
Message 1
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Subject: | Overhead consoles and headliners |
Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the inside of
the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased headliner material
from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I just see all the compound
bends around the overhead console and see it as going to be tough. Painting
sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd like the soft feeling of cloth....
What have others done?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
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Subject: | Overhead consoles and headliners |
I'm planning on copying what several folks have already been successful with
their headliners.
Paint the overhead, vertical risers, and a few other places that won't get
covered with headliner material.
You can then glue headliner material to the cabin cover or........
Ask Geoff to about his new headliner product which will make putting the
headliner material on much easier as well as trimming out the rear windows.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the
inside of the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased
headliner material from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I
just see all the compound bends around the overhead console and see it as
going to be tough. Painting sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd
like the soft feeling of cloth....
What have others done?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
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Subject: | Re: Overhead consoles and headliners |
Hey Mike,
We didn't have an overhead console, but we used the headliner cloth from
flightline interiors -- it's just a woven material with maybe a slight
rubberized backing. Rattle-can contact cement on both surfaces and stick it
up there. Started with gluing the rough sized cloth down the centerline,
then glued/shaped down each side. No paint, minimal sanding/grinding to
knock off obvious flaws, it covers everything and morphs around
curves/joints easily. I can't imagine the overhead would be a problem.
Looks good, soft feeling etc. probably not much sound deadening; but with
headsets, what noise there is, is not a factor.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the
> inside of the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased
> headliner material from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I
> just see all the compound bends around the overhead console and see it as
> going to be tough. Painting sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd
> like the soft feeling of cloth....
>
> What have others done?
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Overhead consoles and headliners |
I used a headliner that had a 1/4" thick foam backing. Cut the backing
about 1/2" from the edge and folded it to create a finished edge. I
then glued the headliner to the plane without going over sharp turn and
corners creating panels instead of covering the entire exposed cabin.
It looks good but it is not a Cirrus interior.
Rob
do not archive
>
> Hey Mike,
>
> We didn't have an overhead console, but we used the headliner cloth
from flightline interiors -- it's just a woven material with maybe a
slight rubberized backing. Rattle-can contact cement on both surfaces
and stick it up there. Started with gluing the rough sized cloth down
the centerline, then glued/shaped down each side. No paint, minimal
sanding/grinding to knock off obvious flaws, it covers everything and
morphs around curves/joints easily. I can't imagine the overhead would
be a problem. Looks good, soft feeling etc. probably not much sound
deadening; but with headsets, what noise there is, is not a factor.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:12 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
>
>
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out
the inside of the canopy with a full length overhead console? I
purchased headliner material from Airtex, but haven't experimented with
it yet. I just see all the compound bends around the overhead console
and see it as going to be tough. Painting sounds like the easiest way,
but I think I'd like the soft feeling of cloth....
>>
>> What have others done?
>> Thanks
>> -Mike Kraus
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Overhead consoles and headliners |
I first tried the overhead console route but decided I didn't like having it
so close to my head. I really only wanted it to hide the GPS antennas and
to hold a couple of overhead lights. I figured out a much simpler way to do
both.
I used micro to fill and smooth the front half of the canopy, then final
painted it after assembly in the plane. For the aft half I purchased a roll
of marine grade 1/4" foam backed vinyl headliner material. I ended up not
liking the color nor the vinyl look. I did like the product quality
however. I purchased some fabric from DJ at Cleaveland Tools (she did my
seats - really good job) and used spray adhesive to glue it to the vinyl
side of the headliner material, then used the same adhesive to glue the
headliner into the canopy.
Some specifics:
- One of the harder parts was fabricating a fiberglass trim ring to finish
the inside of the rear windows. After a few failed attempts I did it the
easy way. With the canopy off the plane and upside down, I used clear
package tape as the release on the canopy. I used 3 bids of medium cloth
cut on the bias, about 2"-3" wide to lay up around the window. After cure I
trimmed the end product to be flush with the inside edge of the window, and
about and 1 1/2" wide (narrower on the forward edge as it sits inside the
door frame pillar). Some micro, sanding and paint and you are done.
- With the canopy final installed and interior painted, invert the fuselage
so that the canopy is upside down. Use paper to make a template of the
overhead (small pieces cut and taped together), then take the template out
and use it to cut the overhead to fit. Glue in the overhead.
- The did some tests on a variety of spray adhesives. The 3M versions
simply failed all for strength and turned to goo when I put the test piece
in the sun. The best product found is Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner and
Carpet Adhesive (orange can). It is available at Advanced Auto and other
car parts places.
- Trim the headliner back from the window inside edge 3/4" or so (do this
before you glue in the overhead). After the overhead is installed, use your
adhesive of choice to glue the window trim ring to the exposes 3/4" of
window fiberglass such that the inside edge of the trim ring is flush with
the inside edge of the canopy window opening, and the trim ring outer edge
overlaps the overhead liner by 3//4" or so. Use clamps to hold it all in
place while the adhesive sets. Put the windows in AFTER all this other
stuff is done.
I'll send some photos off list.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (600 hrs)
RV-10 (firewall forward)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the
inside of the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased
headliner material from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I
just see all the compound bends around the overhead console and see it as
going to be tough. Painting sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd
like the soft feeling of cloth....
What have others done?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Overhead consoles and headliners |
What do you want from the overhead console?
I built one with two car type interior lighting LED lights, my Dynon GPS
will sit on it and thus be hidden, It also covers the rear hinges and door
retainer bolts/nuts. I painted it since the rest of my interior is painted.
Basically, grabbed some cardboard, duct taped it to the shape I wanted,
three ply glass and some fine tuning of the edges to fit better all around.
It's simple but meets what I wanted.
There are nice aftermarket glass as well as the SUV console many where
putting in a couple of years back- $50-60 on ebay I don't recall which one
it was but the archives may produce that answer, if interested.
I think it's worth covering the top even if with foam and cloth that is
glued on, only issue there is you will lose access to anything that is
hidden, specifically the 8 bolts, per side, holding the doors on. I would
want to check that annually, as a minimum, to assure they are not getting
loose, which I doubt they would, but still would want to have that option.
Best of success!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 6:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the
> inside of the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased
> headliner material from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I
> just see all the compound bends around the overhead console and see it as
> going to be tough. Painting sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd
> like the soft feeling of cloth....
>
> What have others done?
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Overhead consoles and headliners |
Mike,
I painted the whole upper canopy. Wanted to save a little weight and didn't want
to deal with a detaching headliner in the future. Turned out very nice.
Dave Hertner
#40164
C-GVMH
Working on engine wiring
------Original Message------
From: Michael Kraus
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
Sent: Oct 30, 2010 9:12 AM
Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the inside of
the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased headliner material
from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I just see all the compound
bends around the overhead console and see it as going to be tough. Painting
sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd like the soft feeling of cloth....
What have others done?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
Message 8
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Subject: | Overhead consoles and headliners |
Re: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
I am very pleased with a painted headliner too.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *effectus@rogers.com
*Sent:* Saturday, October 30, 2010 11:05 AM
*To:* rv10-list
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
Mike,
I painted the whole upper canopy. Wanted to save a little weight and didn't
want to deal with a detaching headliner in the future. Turned out very nice.
Dave Hertner
#40164
C-GVMH
Working on engine wiring
------Original Message------
From: Michael Kraus
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead consoles and headliners
Sent: Oct 30, 2010 9:12 AM
Does anyone have any advice or ideas on the best way to finish out the
inside of the canopy with a full length overhead console? I purchased
headliner material from Airtex, but haven't experimented with it yet. I
just see all the compound bends around the overhead console and see it as
going to be tough. Painting sounds like the easiest way, but I think I'd
like the soft feeling of cloth....
What have others done?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
------------------------------
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Airflow control on the Oil Cooler |
Quick question as I'm doing some planning.
What's the general consensus on the need for a push/pull baffle to control
airflow to the oil cooler on the RV-10?
Have some of the folks had issues at altitude with cold oil temps? I'm
pretty sure some of the ground ops in the northern states have reported
issues with cooler temps.
I'm wondering if I should dedicate a spot on the panel for the push/pull
cable.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 10
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Subject: | Airflow control on the Oil Cooler |
When you don=92t have it and you need it you have few options.
It really allows you to optimize oil temps. Better now than later.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Phillip Perry
*Sent:* Saturday, October 30, 2010 4:17 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler
Quick question as I'm doing some planning.
What's the general consensus on the need for a push/pull baffle to control
airflow to the oil cooler on the RV-10?
Have some of the folks had issues at altitude with cold oil temps? I'm
pretty sure some of the ground ops in the northern states have reported
issues with cooler temps.
I'm wondering if I should dedicate a spot on the panel for the push/pull
cable.
Thanks,
Phil
* *
* *
===========*
===========*
===========*
===========*
* *
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 11
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Subject: | Airflow control on the Oil Cooler |
I live in New Hampshire and I think it is not a necessity but nice to have.
Alan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler
When you don't have it and you need it you have few options.
It really allows you to optimize oil temps. Better now than later.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 4:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler
Quick question as I'm doing some planning.
What's the general consensus on the need for a push/pull baffle to control
airflow to the oil cooler on the RV-10?
Have some of the folks had issues at altitude with cold oil temps? I'm
pretty sure some of the ground ops in the northern states have reported
issues with cooler temps.
I'm wondering if I should dedicate a spot on the panel for the push/pull
cable.
Thanks,
Phil
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Message 12
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Subject: | wire ties, NACA vents |
Hi all
-
I'm-just starting to-rivet my tail cone together and thinking am about
add ons for the interior of the tail cone.- I am wondering where to purch
ase the NACA vents that have been used to supply air to the overhead consol
es?- Also the plastic or nylon lightening hole wire ties?
-
I'd also like anyones opinions on where to place-doublers for Nav and Com
antennaes.- I recall seeing a doubler near the aft end of the bottom ski
n for a nav antennae.- I also believe-others have placed one com antenn
ae on the the bottom, but think they usually go under the baggage area?-
-
-
As well I'd like to rivet the little Avery Tools rudder cable fairings to t
he aft side skin and am wondering about placement over the long narrow oval
holes?- I guess I'm wondering where the cable actually exits the skin?
-
Thx.--
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont.
-
-
-
-=0A=0A
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler |
I love it.... made my own... 95% of the time, you tell me the oil temp you
want, and I can deliver it.- I found that without it in the winter time y
ou may not be able to get your oil temp much over 160 degrees.... if that.
- With it, you can dial in 180 on the same day with the same conditions.
Don
--- On Sat, 10/30/10, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Airflow control on the Oil Cooler
Quick question as I'm doing some planning.
What's the general consensus on the need for a push/pull baffle to control
airflow to the oil cooler on the RV-10?
Have some of the folks had issues at altitude with cold oil temps?- I'm p
retty sure some of the ground ops in the northern states have reported issu
es with cooler temps.
I'm wondering if I should dedicate a spot on the panel for the push/pull ca
ble.
Thanks,
Phil
=0A=0A=0A
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