Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:21 AM - Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution Today! (Matt Dralle)
1. 03:54 AM - Re: Seat rail alignment issue (carl.froehlich@verizon.net)
2. 03:54 AM - Re: Seat rail alignment issue (carl.froehlich@verizon.net)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: Seat rail alignment issue (Sean Stephens)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Wheel Fairing Mount maintenance issue - a must-read for flying -10's (John Gonzalez)
5. 06:44 AM - Re: Wheel Fairing Mount maintenance issue - a must-read for flying -10's (Tim Olson)
6. 08:12 AM - Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (Phillip Perry)
7. 08:37 AM - Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (Masys, Daniel R)
8. 09:45 AM - Re: Seat rail alignment issue (Rob Kochman)
9. 03:49 PM - Chelton and Trutrak VSGV (DLM)
10. 05:41 PM - Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (dmaib@me.com)
11. 06:57 PM - Re: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (Bill Watson)
12. 07:23 PM - Fuel pressure sender problem (Sheldon Olesen)
13. 07:23 PM - Re: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (Pascal)
14. 07:54 PM - Re: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (McGann, Ron)
15. 08:06 PM - Re: Fuel pressure sender problem (Dave Saylor)
16. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (Dave Saylor)
17. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows (Bill Watson)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine
subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Seat rail alignment issue |
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Seat rail alignment issue |
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Seat rail alignment issue |
Just did the seat plates a few weeks ago. They are not identical, but
rather mirror images of one another. It took me a while to figure out
how they went together, but reading ahead in the plans and seeing how
they are supposed to attach helped.
Check and make sure you made them mirror images as opposed to identical.
-Sean #40303
On 11/9/10 5:50 AM, carl.froehlich@verizon.net wrote:
> I think the left and right seat plates are not identical.
>
> Carl
>
> Sent from my mobile phone. Please read past the typos.
>
>
> -----Original message-----
>
> *From: *Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>*
> To: *rv10-list@matronics.com*
> Sent: *Tue, Nov 9, 2010 06:30:55 GMT+00:00*
> Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Seat rail alignment issue
>
> Thanks, Bob... I looked around for something I might have done
> wrong, but there's not too much complicated around there, and the
> left and the right ones are the same. For anyone else who may run
> into this, I called Van's, and they said it would be acceptable to
> "slot" the holes in the seat rail support, where it attaches to
> the gear weldment, so that's what I did, and all's well.
> Thanks...
> -Rob
>
> On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 1:43 PM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com
> <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>> wrote:
>
> Im sure youve already thought of this, but I when I run into
> this situation, its usually because Ive orientated the piece
> incorrectly. i.e. upside down or left swapped with right.
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of
> *Rob Kochman
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 07, 2010 12:40 PM
> *To:* rv10-list
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Seat rail alignment issue
>
> Hi, all... I'm installing the seat rails now, and I have a fit
> problem. I bolted the outboard mid rail support to the
> landing gear weldment (that was fun), but the holes for the
> rail aren't lining up with the seat floor. The seat floor and
> rails agree, but the mid rail support doesn't. Pic attached
> (left side of the picture is forward). The right seat is
> pictured, but It's pretty much the same on the left side.
> Anyone run into this issue?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> "_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> .com/" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
> ~,gM4Gqz.'yJiXlN 2tgJa8DAlz{[u'$pnbybF-
> vi.
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> %yki0^rq&-z-'o8u$+yky-0nun$&-)]z,rh[Gh[azZ\l0&y^(*'gJ+^i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*'N*.~zw,h1m)8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C
> {
> ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5hum 'ojj+E]t.+-08IaT1
> jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rh'k{w/tml
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wheel Fairing Mount maintenance issue - a must-read for |
flying -10's
I like your thought process in your analyzing the problem. Now we just need
someone with access to a machine shop to fabricate these 1/2" diameter ste
el spacers!!!! Subtracting from the length for the laminated steel washers.
Thanks for the write up.
> Date: Sun=2C 7 Nov 2010 20:25:51 -0600
> From: Tim@MyRV10.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing Mount maintenance issue - a must-read f
or flying -10's
>
>
> This isn't a completely new issue....I think maybe Bill
> DeRouchey reported the same problem a couple years back.
> But=2C I can guarantee that this is going to be an issue that
> will eventually affect most every RV-10 built to date=2C unless
> they did something to fix it already.
>
> See my write-up here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20101107/index.html
>
> Just like the original axle extensions=2C and nosewheel axle
> spacers=2C this is going to be one of those problems that will
> almost definitely affect you....but luckily the problems it
> causes aren't nearly as damaging as the other two things.
>
> Check out the write-up though=2C and if you're not yet
> up to section 46=2C just remember that you're going to want to
> do something different with your U-1008 spacers. Maybe if
> you're lucky=2C one of our great aftermarket parts sources will
> come up with something before you get this far.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Fairing Mount maintenance issue - a must-read for |
flying -10's
Precisely! I think ideally, if you look at the partial circle
where the gear leg hole is in the U-1010-L part, what you would
get are 3 steel spacers, and a "C" shaped plate that is predrilled
for the 3 bolt holes, and wraps around that area as reinforcement.
You can look at the mating cleveland wheel part where the other
side of the spacers go, and see that it's just a 2/3 circle flange.
So if you had a 2/3 circle flat plate with 3 holes in it, as a
reinforcement plate, and 3 spacers, all made so the overall total
thickness was about .655-ish in thickness, you'd be in great
shape.
I did get one company that contacted me that is interested
in making something, but I've not had a lot of time to reply
yet. But the pictures and info kind of speak for themselves.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 11/9/2010 8:12 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> I like your thought process in your analyzing the problem. Now we just
> need someone with access to a machine shop to fabricate these 1/2"
> diameter steel spacers!!!! Subtracting from the length for the laminated
> steel washers.
>
> Thanks for the write up.
>
> > Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 20:25:51 -0600
> > From: Tim@MyRV10.com
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing Mount maintenance issue - a
> must-read for flying -10's
> >
> >
> > This isn't a completely new issue....I think maybe Bill
> > DeRouchey reported the same problem a couple years back.
> > But, I can guarantee that this is going to be an issue that
> > will eventually affect most every RV-10 built to date, unless
> > they did something to fix it already.
> >
> > See my write-up here:
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20101107/index.html
> >
> > Just like the original axle extensions, and nosewheel axle
> > spacers, this is going to be one of those problems that will
> > almost definitely affect you....but luckily the problems it
> > causes aren't nearly as damaging as the other two things.
> >
> > Check out the write-up though, and if you're not yet
> > up to section 46, just remember that you're going to want to
> > do something different with your U-1008 spacers. Maybe if
> > you're lucky, one of our great aftermarket parts sources will
> > come up with something before you get this far.
> >
> > --
> > =====================
> >=================
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
It looks to me like the glue stayed on the cabin top, but released from the
windows...... Is that what occurred when it broke clean?
Phil
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
Hi Bill,
No cloth tape over the outside. Just window glued in place and a little microballoon
epoxy filler around the edges. This made for a clean separation when it
departed. Part of the window that separated from frame but did not break loose
showed that the FE6026 had bonded very well to the fiberglass frame of the
window, but no speck of it was present on the acrylic. So the failure to bond
was with the window, not the fuselage. The window bonding area was scuffed
pretty well, but the new window
And the window did hold solidly for 3 plus years and 420 flight hours, with only
a tiny microcrack line around perimeter of the window.
And after all, it is Experimental Aviation. Make building decisions, fly, and
learn...
-Dan
From:
Bill Watson (Mauledriver@nc.rr.com)
Date:
Mon Nov 08 - 12:07 PM
Dan, I'm curious whether the window had any cloth tape over the outside
edge. Doesn't look like it but curious.
Thanks for the writeup and the excellent pics!
Bill "dreaming of needing O2 while actually needing to paint" Watson
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Seat rail alignment issue |
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bi5uZXQvTjgxOUsK
Message 9
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| Subject: | Chelton and Trutrak VSGV |
We had been wondering why the lower selected altitude gave an immediate
and uncomfortable descent. check the 6B operating procedures page 6-70.
"If a lower target altitude is selected, the skyway will descend
immediately and a green arc showing altitude capture point will
appear on the courseline on the MFD. The intent is to climb or
descend "right now" as if being given an assigned altitude from
ATC. This is analagous to the heading bug submode. The
system uses descent logic. This will be either a manually-
selected vertical speed (VSI bug) or airspeed (airspeed bug). If
neither is selected, a default descent of 1000 fpm will be used."
Climb and descent angles appear to work only for VNAV segments.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
Dan, thanks for posting this info and the excellent photo's. I came very close
to using one of the alternative window bonding products that were being discussed
at that time. I ended up using the Weld-On. With an extra set of hands and
lots of attention to setting up properly, it was a pretty easy process. There
was a lesson that I had to learn more than once during construction. It was this:
If you are going to deviate significantly from Van's instructions and processes,
think very carefully about unintended consequences. [Shocked]
I found out the hard way more than once!
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=318778#318778
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
For those coming up on this task, weld-on may not be such a villan. I used
the aluminum finger method but made no other effort to tightly clamp the
pieces together. Almost a year later, not flying but no cracking. &n
bsp;I suggest just fighting the urge to squeeze the pieces together.. The
fit was not bad.
Will report after climb to FL150.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre
On Nov 9, 2010 8:38 PM, dmaib@me.com <dmaib@me.com> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@me.com" <dmaib@me.com>
Dan, thanks for posting this info and the excellent photo's. I came very cl
ose to using one of the alternative window bonding products that were being
discussed at that time. I ended up using the Weld-On. With an extra set of
hands and lots of attention to setting up properly, it was a pretty easy
process. There was a lesson that I had to learn more than once during cons
truction. It was this: If you are going to deviate significantly from Van's
instructions and processes, think very carefully about unintended conseque
nces. [Shocked]
I found out the hard way more than once!
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=318778#318778
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fuel pressure sender problem |
While getting ready to land in IA after a trip to FL my fuel pressure went up to
111. The FP went up about the time the time I hit the electric boost pump.
With the red lights flashing, the engine ran normally and an uneventful landing
was made. I thought that maybe a ground wire had become intermittent and that
was the cause of the problem. During take-off the lights came back on and
finally went out during the cruise portion of the flight to WI. The FP light
did not come back on when I landed with the boost pump on at my home airport.
I checked into the problem after I got home. The sender came with the GRT EIS.
The ground wire is secure. The sender tests at 7 ohms with no pressure and
around 720 ohms with the boost pump on. Does anyone have any insight as to
what is going on with the fuel pressure? Is there a way the sender can become
intermittent?
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 237 hours
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
I second that. With proper planning it is not bad at all, the clean up
off the inside plexi is the worst part.
Pascal
From: Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2010 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10
windows
For those coming up on this task, weld-on may not be such a villan. I
used the aluminum finger method but made no other effort to tightly
clamp the pieces together. Almost a year later, not flying but no
cracking. I suggest just fighting the urge to squeeze the pieces
together.. The fit was not bad.
Will report after climb to FL150.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
On Nov 9, 2010 8:38 PM, dmaib@me.com <dmaib@me.com> wrote:
Dan, thanks for posting this info and the excellent photo's. I came very
close to using one of the alternative window bonding products that were
being discussed at that time. I ended up using the Weld-On. With an
extra set of hands and lots of attention to setting up properly, it was
a pretty easy process. There was a lesson that I had to learn more than
once during construction. It was this: If you are going to deviate
significantly from Van's instructions and processes, think very
carefully about unintended consequences. [Shocked]
I found out the hard way more than once!
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=318778#318778
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
I did all the tests and research, including a bonding test with FE6026. None was
up to snuff for me. I finally managed to secure and use Weldon 10 and it's
the best solution IMHO. The only problem is that Weldon is not available in Oz
(or at least it used to be almost impossible to get)- Vans won't ship it overseas
and would not even hint at an alternative. Their lack of support on this
issue so late in the build process was the only disappointment I had with them
in the whole project. So I'm sure there are a number of non US based builders
still looking for an alternative.
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib@me.com
Sent: Wednesday, 10 November 2010 12:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows
Dan, thanks for posting this info and the excellent photo's. I came very close
to using one of the alternative window bonding products that were being discussed
at that time. I ended up using the Weld-On. With an extra set of hands and
lots of attention to setting up properly, it was a pretty easy process. There
was a lesson that I had to learn more than once during construction. It was this:
If you are going to deviate significantly from Van's instructions and processes,
think very carefully about unintended consequences. [Shocked] I found
out the hard way more than once!
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=318778#318778
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure sender problem |
I had a similar intermittent problem with my oil temp probe. It would
vary +/- 50F in a few seconds, which I don't think is physically
possible. I put a ground wire between the oil temp sender housing and
the firewall and that eliminated the problem. That was two years ago.
This summer the problem returned so I remade the ground and the
terminal connection on the probe, and everything returned to normal.
I'd make sure all the grounds and connections are solid and see what it does.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Nov 9, 2010 at 7:16 PM, Sheldon Olesen <saolesen@sirentel.net> wrote:
>
> While getting ready to land in IA after a trip to FL my fuel pressure went up
to 111. The FP went up about the time the time I hit the electric boost pump.
With the red lights flashing, the engine ran normally and an uneventful landing
was made. I thought that maybe a ground wire had become intermittent and that
was the cause of the problem. During take-off the lights came back on and finally
went out during the cruise portion of the flight to WI. The FP light did
not come back on when I landed with the boost pump on at my home airport.
>
> I checked into the problem after I got home. The sender came with the GRT EIS.
The ground wire is secure. The sender tests at 7 ohms with no pressure and around
720 ohms with the boost pump on. Does anyone have any insight as to what
is going on with the fuel pressure? Is there a way the sender can become intermittent?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hours
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
I've been happy with the Silpruf method. One the one occasion that I
had to remove a window, it was well-adhered to both surfaces.
I used it on the side windows only, not the windscreen.
So far it's been just over 3 years and 700+ hours.
Knock on wood...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Nov 9, 2010 at 7:51 PM, McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@ausawd.com> wrote:
>
> I did all the tests and research, including a bonding test with FE6026. None
was up to snuff for me. I finally managed to secure and use Weldon 10 and it's
the best solution IMHO. The only problem is that Weldon is not available in Oz
(or at least it used to be almost impossible to get)- Vans won't ship it overseas
and would not even hint at an alternative. Their lack of support on this
issue so late in the build process was the only disappointment I had with them
in the whole project. So I'm sure there are a number of non US based builders
still looking for an alternative.
>
> Cheers
> Ron
> VH-XRM flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib@me.com
> Sent: Wednesday, 10 November 2010 12:38 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows
>
>
> Dan, thanks for posting this info and the excellent photo's. I came very close
to using one of the alternative window bonding products that were being discussed
at that time. I ended up using the Weld-On. With an extra set of hands and
lots of attention to setting up properly, it was a pretty easy process. There
was a lesson that I had to learn more than once during construction. It was
this: If you are going to deviate significantly from Van's instructions and processes,
think very carefully about unintended consequences. [Shocked] I found
out the hard way more than once!
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=318778#318778
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Something *not* to use to bond your RV-10 windows |
Agreed on the inside cleanup. Someone here suggested 50/50 mix of
acetone/mineral spirits. Worked well for me. I wouldn't have used 100%
acetone but the mix seemed much tamer. No crazing.
Two other suggestions:
- mask both sides of the plexi to simplify cleanup. The brush on stuff
from AS worked well on the outside but I used plastic tape and paper on
the inside where the mess ends up.
- dry fit the plexi on the canopy top so that a short straight edge can
be run around the edge without hanging up on any protruding plexi. I
found that all 4 windows and the windshield (almost) can be pretty
easily fit this way with no pressure applied (old green canopy top)
The stuff does stink, seems toxic, and probably calls for better
ventilation and protection than I used at first.
On 11/9/2010 10:18 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I second that. With proper planning it is not bad at all, the clean up
> off the inside plexi is the worst part.
> Pascal
>
> *From:* Bill Watson <mailto:mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 09, 2010 6:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Something *not* to use to bond your
> RV-10 windows
>
> For those coming up on this task, weld-on may not be such a villan. I
> used the aluminum finger method but made no other effort to tightly
> clamp the pieces together. Almost a year later, not flying but no
> cracking. I suggest just fighting the urge to squeeze the pieces
> together.. The fit was not bad.
>
> Will report after climb to FL150.
>
>
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