Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:25 AM - Make Sure You're Listed! (Matt Dralle)
1. 04:49 AM - Re: Thottle cable length (Kelly McMullen)
2. 05:32 AM - Re: Thottle cable length (jkreidler)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: Re: Thottle cable length (Tim Olson)
4. 06:33 AM - FS Fine Wire Spark Plugs (dmaib@me.com)
5. 06:37 AM - Re: Thottle cable length (jkreidler)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Re: Thottle cable length (Tim Olson)
7. 07:01 AM - Re: tach drive cover (Richard Martin)
8. 08:45 AM - Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView (Kelly McMullen)
9. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView (Tim Olson)
10. 09:26 AM - throttle cable length (John Gonzalez)
11. 11:46 AM - Re: Thottle cable length (Bob Turner)
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| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! |
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner with just two more days
in this year's Fund Raiser! Later in December I will post a list of everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists this year. Its
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists.
Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard,
or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
I suspect this is one of those issues that most everyone has heard about,
but Van's chooses not to address. Kind of like the nose wheel/fork issues.
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 10:12 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>wrote:
> This what I am referring to, but you added a quadrant which must have made
> the length requirement change. I kept everything nearly the same and ran out
> of cable length.
>
> I believe I will be able to fix this by adjusting the position of the servo
> arm as it can incrementally articulate with the arm which hits the stops.
>
> Just trying the figure why I ran out of length and whether others have had
> the problem.
>
> Thank you for directing me to the exact location on your site.
>
> John
>
> ------------------------------
> From: Tim@myrv10.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thottle cable length
> Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 22:30:05 -0600
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> John, is this what you're speaking of?
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html
>
> See down the page on throttle cable.
> Tim
>
>
> On Nov 28, 2010, at 9:03 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
>
> I spent most of the day hooking up my control cables on the engine.
>
> I was very surprised that the cables Vans provided with the kit were
> so tight and left little extra length to work with. I had installed eye ball
> pass throughs on my firewall in the same location as the stock SBs, But I
> had to drill out the aluminum cores so that the cables would fit through
> correctly. Unfortunely, I hadn't drilled the holes large enough and once the
> fittings where screwed down the cables were tight in the core. Hense, I
> needed to undo the eye balls so I could pull the cables tighter giving more
> room in the cable in the engine compartment. Even with that, I have no
> wiggle room.
>
> I was also very careful to keep the location of the cable handles in the
> same location as the stock part even though I fabicated a different subpanel
> which holds all the control handles.
>
> My mixture cable works through its full range of motion, but my throttle
> cable seems short by 1/4-3/8" even though the cable bracket on the throttle
> body is midway up the throttle cable threaded base.
>
> Did other builders need to adjust double articulated arm on the throttle
> body so that the cable will make the throttle go to both stops- full open
> and full closed?
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G #409
>
> *
> *
>
> *
>
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> com
>
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> 10-List
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> 3D=============================================*
>
> *
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
We had to order a longer cable. I think we used the RV-7 throttle cable, I assume
Van's has not changed the lengths of either the 10 or the 7 cable in the past
few years.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321568#321568
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
Aren't we talking about 2 different things here? I mean, the cable
not being long enough is one thing, but John's original question
stated he didn't get enough throw to go stop-to-stop on the cable.
That isn't really determined by cable length...although I can see
where a straight run cable might perhaps give you a tiny bit better
throw than one that makes a bunch of curves. If the cable isn't
long enough to reach the attach points on each end, then you
get a longer cable. If the throw isn't going stop-to-stop, you
have to play with the lever arm connections a bit to make it
throw the way you want it. I had to redrill both ends on mine to
make it perfect. I didn't want a throttle that didn't go stop-to-stop.
I wanted it almost 99.9% back-stop when at idle, and 99.9% to
forward stop when WOT. This took a little eyeballing, but once
I did it, it worked perfectly. I used the standard cable that
came with the quadrant. For a couple cables, it would have been
nice to have an extra 1" or .5" of length, but it did work out
for me with the stock cables.
Regarding the melting of the prop gov. cable sheath, I found
that some aluminum tape around the cable worked well at
reflecting that heat so it wouldn't absorb. You could build
an insulated heat shield with some high-temp insulation
wrapped on the cable, and some aluminum tape over it. You
have to protect those things right near the exhaust...especially
the cowl.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 11/29/2010 7:30 AM, jkreidler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jkreidler"<jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
>
> We had to order a longer cable. I think we used the RV-7 throttle cable, I assume
Van's has not changed the lengths of either the 10 or the 7 cable in the
past few years.
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321568#321568
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | FS Fine Wire Spark Plugs |
I have six Auburn HSR-83P fine wire spark plugs for sale. All are new, never installed
or used. One tube has been opened to inspect the plug and the other five
tubes are still sealed from the factory.
$40 each plus shipping. If you want all six, I will pay shipping anywhere in the
US.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321579#321579
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
The difference is the jacket of the cable. If the jacket is too short, or even
marginal then you are forced to run the anchor nuts all the way to the end of
the jacket. This sets in stone where the end of the cable will ultimately end
up. In our case we might have been able to get the servo arms adjusted just
far enough to work, but the intersecting angle between the cable and the arm
would have been nearly 180 degrees or straight on. This does two things, first
it creates the unlikely potential that the cable and arm may go over center
and not function, secondly it makes the throttle harder to push for the first
part of the travel. Of course even with a longer cable and the anchor nuts all
the way at the end of the jacket you would have the same problem (Tim, to your
point). By using a longer cable we were able to set anchor nuts away from
the end of the jacket allowing the intersecting angle to be approximately 45 degrees
at idle and wide open making the throttle pressure required at any point
feel the same.
This topic has circulated in the past, I think the lengths Van's supplies for the
quadrant are OK PER Tims and others feedback, but others beyond us have had
to get longer cables for the standard setup.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321582#321582
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
Ahh, that clears up the issue. Yeah, you definitely wouldn't
want it to go over-center and cause a problem. I've never
installed the push-pull type install, so I can't see it
all very clearly...on the quadrant install though, it seems
pretty simple.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 11/29/2010 8:34 AM, jkreidler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by:
> "jkreidler"<jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
>
> The difference is the jacket of the cable. If the jacket is too
> short, or even marginal then you are forced to run the anchor nuts
> all the way to the end of the jacket. This sets in stone where the
> end of the cable will ultimately end up. In our case we might have
> been able to get the servo arms adjusted just far enough to work, but
> the intersecting angle between the cable and the arm would have been
> nearly 180 degrees or straight on. This does two things, first it
> creates the unlikely potential that the cable and arm may go over
> center and not function, secondly it makes the throttle harder to
> push for the first part of the travel. Of course even with a longer
> cable and the anchor nuts all the way at the end of the jacket you
> would have the same problem (Tim, to your point). By using a longer
> cable we were able to set anchor nuts away from the end of the jacket
> allowing the intersecting angle to be approximately 45 degrees at
> idle and wide open making the throttle pre! ssure required at any
> point feel the same.
>
> This topic has circulated in the past, I think the lengths Van's
> supplies for the quadrant are OK PER Tims and others feedback, but
> others beyond us have had to get longer cables for the standard
> setup.
>
> -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony
> Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying -
> #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321582#321582
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
The covers are available from Klaus Savior @ Lightspeed engineering in
Califorinia, telephone 805 933 3299. He makes the best electronic ignition
systems. I have dual lightspeeds on my RV8. 2000 plus hours and no
problems. I live in wisconsin and find that cold starts zero and lower are
a no problems. The engine starts like your car. NO PREHEATING ETC.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 7:19 PM, pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com> wrote:
> Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming
> engines.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
> blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
>
> *
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
Tim, are you able to get weather on your NavWorx box now? Most areas with
ADS-B or just a few?
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 10:41 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
> I think the G3X is too new for it to be tested and known. Likely it'll do
> traffic just like the 696. The WX would be much harder, since to do that,
> they'd have to emulate XM as a split separate feed....not sure if they'll go
> down that path. For systems that support a combined ADS-B interface where
> you get both on the same feed, maybe someday they'll integrate...but if you
> go Garmin on EFIS/panel as a base, you're likely to be stuck at least for a
> long while, with Garmin only for accessories of this type. The gorilla
> doesn't play well with all the other monkey species.
> Tim
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
With the Chelton, yes, you can get WX on it....WX and Traffic
both, if you hook it up in ADS-B mode. I myself have it hooked
up as TCAS, so I don't use WX, since I have WSI.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 11/29/2010 10:18 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Tim, are you able to get weather on your NavWorx box now? Most areas
> with ADS-B or just a few?
>
> On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 10:41 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> wrote:
>
> I think the G3X is too new for it to be tested and known. Likely
> it'll do traffic just like the 696. The WX would be much harder,
> since to do that, they'd have to emulate XM as a split separate
> feed....not sure if they'll go down that path. For systems that
> support a combined ADS-B interface where you get both on the same
> feed, maybe someday they'll integrate...but if you go Garmin on
> EFIS/panel as a base, you're likely to be stuck at least for a long
> while, with Garmin only for accessories of this type. The gorilla
> doesn't play well with all the other monkey species.
> Tim
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | throttle cable length |
So it appears that others have had the same issue.
As stated=2C if I change the servo arm angle to decrease the length of the
needed cable=2C I will run the risk of the angle between the cable and the
servo arm approaching 180 degrees and having the over center problem. I nee
d to get another cable. Do I send back the one Vans sent for credit or is t
hat a no go?
When orderring another cable of Cable(S) isn't it preferable to have a slig
ht bend in the cables so that they can be braced with cushion clamps? My cu
rrent throttle cable is so tight between the eyeball grommet and the thrott
le cable bracket that it is a straight line. I certainly can't change the c
able position and it rubs on the bottom of the oil pan.
Lastly=2C in reference to the mixture and the prop cables=2C they pass the
rear left corner of the oil pan=2C but appear as though because of their la
ck of play will be rubbing on that corner and they most likely will eventua
lly get between the bottom bar of the engine mount and the bottom of the oi
l pan. The actual seperation of the pan and the mount are about the width o
f the cable which concerns me that the cable will be worn down with engine
vibration.
Trying to figure out whether to order more than the throttle cable. Have ot
hers had wear issues with these cables between these parts?
Thanks
John
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
You're not alone, mine were too short (standard set up). I sent photos back and
forth to Vans, couldn't resolve the problem. In the end I used a different, more
direct routing, and have just enough slack (for engine vibration) to feel
okay about it. Yes, I did have to move the arms on the throttle body to get stop-to-stop
movement. But they're no where near 180 to the cable.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321631#321631
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