RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 12/01/10


Total Messages Posted: 18



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:11 AM - Winter oil, revisited (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
     2. 07:34 AM - Re: Winter oil, revisited (Alan Meklet Md)
     3. 07:57 AM - Re: Winter oil, revisited (Tim Olson)
     4. 10:11 AM - Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (jchang10)
     5. 10:35 AM - Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (Michael Kraus)
     6. 10:35 AM - Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (Pascal)
     7. 11:00 AM - Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (DLM)
     8. 12:32 PM - Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (Pascal)
     9. 01:15 PM - Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (jchang10)
    10. 01:31 PM - Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question (Robin Marks)
    11. 04:04 PM - Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Rob Kochman)
    12. 04:21 PM - Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Rob Kochman)
    13. 06:41 PM - Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Eric_Kallio)
    14. 07:15 PM - Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Ron B.)
    15. 07:46 PM - Re: Thottle cable length (ivankris)
    16. 08:34 PM - Re: Re: Thottle cable length (Kelly McMullen)
    17. 08:58 PM - Re: Re: Thottle cable length (pilotdds)
    18. 11:04 PM - Propeller exchange? (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:11:14 AM PST US
    From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero>
    Subject: Winter oil, revisited
    Checked with the local mechanic, and he said: "You probably want that oil gone sooner rather than later. I agree though that with good preheat and letting the oil get good and warm before flight then you probably won't have any problems. Watch the oil temperature - if the thick oil congeals in the oil cooler then the cooler becomes essentiall y blocked - the oil temperature will go way up quickly since there is no oi l cooling." TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) tdt@aurora.aero<mailto:tdt@aurora.aero> 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) smaller flight


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:34:56 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Winter oil, revisited
    From: Alan Meklet Md <amekler@metrocast.net>
    I think you should get rid of the mineral oil. I switched over at 40 hours. Regards, Alan Ps if you want to fly up to klci there is a good restaurant Sent from my iPod On Dec 1, 2010, at 10:07 AM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend@aur ora.aero> wrote: > Checked with the local mechanic, and he said: > > > > =9CYou probably want that oil gone sooner rather than later. I agre e though that with good preheat and letting the oil get good and warm before flight then you probably won't have any problems. Watch the oil temperatur e - if the thick oil congeals in the oil cooler then the cooler becomes esse ntially blocked - the oil temperature will go way up quickly since there is n o oil cooling.=9D > > > > TDT > > > > > > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > > RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) > > tdt@aurora.aero > > 617-500-4812 (office) > > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > <image001.png> > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:57:35 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Winter oil, revisited
    I know I was recommended to go 50 hours on mineral based oil. I agree with Kelly, if you switch to Philips 20-50 X/C right now, you would be well served....you get to stay on mineral a while longer, maybe help your break-in, and get a fresh oil change. The other option is to get out there and FLY 10 more hours, and get to 50....then do the oil change. If you go out and play for a while, you can finish the break-in and use that same oil. Now, if you don't want to fly a lot, do like Kelly also said, and put in some fresh oil that won't be loaded with corrosives, and add some camguard. You don't want to leave it sit for a long time either way, but especially if it has old oil. The Camguard additive is actually proving to honestly add corrosion resistance too, so go with that at least in the months the plane doesn't fly a ton. I used Philips x/c 20-50 for the first 100 hours before switching to semi-synthetic (I use Exxon Elite, but according to Aviation Consumer's testing, the best value is Philips X/C + Camguard). Tim On 12/1/2010 9:31 AM, Alan Meklet Md wrote: > I think you should get rid of the mineral oil. I switched over at 40 hours. > Regards, > Alan > Ps if you want to fly up to klci there is a good restaurant > > > Sent from my iPod > > On Dec 1, 2010, at 10:07 AM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" > <tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero <mailto:tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero>> wrote: > >> Checked with the local mechanic, and he said: >> >> You probably want that oil gone sooner rather than later. I agree >> though that with good preheat and letting the oil get good and warm >> before flight then you probably won't have any problems. Watch the oil >> temperature - if the thick oil congeals in the oil cooler then the >> cooler becomes essentially blocked - the oil temperature will go way >> up quickly since there is no oil cooling. >> >> TDT >> >> Tim Dawson-Townsend >> >> RV-10 N52KS (<http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks>http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) >> >> <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>tdt@aurora.aero <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero> >> >> 617-500-4812 (office) >> >> 617-905-4800 (mobile) >> >> <image001.png> >> > * > > *


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:11:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around the leading edge. My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory bend in it or no? Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge. Thanks, Jae 40533 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:35:40 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
    No bend, you are correct. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 1, 2010, at 1:08 PM, "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> wrote: > > On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around the leading edge. > > My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory bend in it or no? > > Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge. > > Thanks, > Jae > 40533 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937 > > > > > > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:35:49 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > > On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around > the leading edge. > > My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory > bend in it or no? > > Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge. > > Thanks, > Jae > 40533 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937 > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:00:10 AM PST US
    From: "DLM" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    You can also add an extra nutplate on the lower forward area on a stationary piece there that does not call for a nutplate in the plans. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 11:33 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > > assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> > Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > >> >> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around >> the leading edge. >> >> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory >> bend in it or no? >> >> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge. >> >> Thanks, >> Jae >> 40533 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:32:07 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    specifically 1099-G. Just realized I did it without even thinking about the plans not calling for it. It simply made for a better fit so I just did it without thinking about it. No big deal, I guess if not done. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "DLM" <dlm46007@cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > > You can also add an extra nutplate on the lower forward area on a > stationary piece there that does not call for a nutplate in the plans. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 11:33 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > > >> >> assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing. >> Pascal >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> >> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >> Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question >> >>> <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> >>> >>> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around >>> the leading edge. >>> >>> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory >>> bend in it or no? >>> >>> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Jae >>> 40533 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:15:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    Thanks everyone for the advice. Now, i see on page 44-2, the last step, where it asks you to conform to the shape of the leading edge. I need to read more carefully! argh. Jae 40533 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321956#321956


    Message 10


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    Time: 01:31:22 PM PST US
    From: Robin Marks <Robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
    Subject: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
    Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question Almost everything I do, I do without thinking about it. Robin Do Not Archive *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Pascal *Sent:* Wednesday, December 01, 2010 12:28 PM *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question specifically 1099-G. Just realized I did it without even thinking about the plans not calling for it. It simply made for a better fit so I just did it without thinking about it. No big deal, I guess if not done. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "DLM" <dlm46007@cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > > You can also add an extra nutplate on the lower forward area on a > stationary piece there that does not call for a nutplate in the plans. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 11:33 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question > > >> >> assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing. >> Pascal >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> >> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >> Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question >> >>> <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> >>> >>> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around >>> the leading edge. >>> >>> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory >>> bend in it or no? >>> >>> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Jae >>> 40533 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ------------------------------ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com


    Message 11


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    Time: 04:04:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    Hi, all... I=92m using a Flightline interior and foam door seals that attac h to the door, and I=92m planning on putting that seal where the door interio r transitions to paint (see attached drawing). Has anyone done anything similar and have any guidance (or pictures)? I figure the foam seal will mask the transition between the interior fabric and the painted door edge. Thanks=85 -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 12


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    Time: 04:21:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    I meant to label the picture--blue is the interior, red is the paint, and green is the door seal. On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 3:59 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi, all... I=92m using a Flightline interior and foam door seals that att ach > to the door, and I=92m planning on putting that seal where the door inter ior > transitions to paint (see attached drawing). Has anyone done anything > similar and have any guidance (or pictures)? I figure the foam seal will > mask the transition between the interior fabric and the painted door edge . > > > Thanks=85 > > > -Rob > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 13


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    Time: 06:41:03 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
    From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
    I recently installed my interior from Abby. Her plans have you wrap the interior fabric around the edge and glue it down to the 1/2 inch vertical lip if that makes sense. I thought I had a picture but I can't find it right now and I won't be back to the hanger until Saturday. Having said that though I don't see a reason why you couldn't terminate your fabric under your door seal and paint the edges. In fact it will probably give you a cleaner look. Bottom line, although her plans are different you should be fine with what you are planning as long as you are accounting for the additional thickness in fitting the doors and the trimming of your canopy lip. Eric Kallio Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322011#322011


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:15:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
    From: "Ron B." <cfxoa@klis.com>
    Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:46:25 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Thottle cable length
    From: "ivankris" <ivankris@rogers.com>
    All three cables were too short in my installation. I returned all three to Vans for credit and then re-ordered the 50.5" throttle cable from Vans which is 3" longer than the one they ship with the kit. I then ordered two new cables (Mix & Prop) directly from the Mfg. and specified the length I wanted. They are a bit pricey (about twice Vans prices) that way but well worth the extra money to get the proper length for proper routing. The Mfg. is ACS Products. This company was started by the same man who started Aircraft Spruce and was originally part of that company but is now a separate entity. These are the part numbers: Blue Knob VProp A-1760-30-0745-V with 2.5" stroke Red Knob Mixture A-1760-20-0535-V with 2.5" stroke This is a special non refundable order at $159.95 each so be sure that this is what you need. The part numbers I have given here gives you cables two inches longer than the cables you get from Vans, this is what I used and they worked fine. If I had to do it again I believe I would, like the throttle cable, make them 3 inches longer which would make the installation even easier. If you plan a std Vans panel order them 2" longer. If you use CF panel from Aerosport Products order them 3" longer. To order cables three inches longer change the last number for the blue knob from 0745 to 0755 (75.5") and for the red knob from 0535 to 0545 (54.5") Keep in mind that if you plan on using the CF instrument panel from http://www.aerosportproducts.com/ then this brings the attach point of these cables in the cockpit back almost one inch which makes longer cables a definite requirement. To order call Anthony Garcia at Aircraft Spruce at (951) 372-9555 ex. 456 or e-mail him at anthonygarcia@aircraftspruce.com and give him quotation # 249314 -------- Ivan K. www.ivankristensen.com Builder # 40838 Flying (60 hrs.) C-GMDV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322015#322015


    Message 16


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    Time: 08:34:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Thottle cable length
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    Thank you for that detail. Another option is to order cables you need from McFarlane Aviation. They make high quality PMA cables for Cessnas and some Pipers, and will custom make whatever you need. I haven't checked to see which would be cheaper. Kelly On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 8:34 PM, ivankris <ivankris@rogers.com> wrote: > > All three cables were too short in my installation. I returned all three to > Vans for credit and then re-ordered the 50.5" throttle cable from Vans which > is 3" longer than the one they ship with the kit. > > I then ordered two new cables (Mix & Prop) directly from the Mfg. and > specified the length I wanted. They are a bit pricey (about twice Vans > prices) that way but well worth the extra money to get the proper length for > proper routing. >


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:58:40 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Thottle cable length
    From: pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>
    aircraft spruce sells screw on extensions for the control cables-anybody tr ied them? -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> Sent: Wed, Dec 1, 2010 8:34 pm Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Thottle cable length Thank you for that detail. Another option is to order cables you need from McFarlane Aviation. They make high quality PMA cables for Cessnas and some Pipers, and will custom make whatever you need. I haven't checked to see wh ich would be cheaper. Kelly On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 8:34 PM, ivankris <ivankris@rogers.com> wrote: All three cables were too short in my installation. I returned all three to Vans for credit and then re-ordered the 50.5" throttle cable from Vans whi ch is 3" longer than the one they ship with the kit. I then ordered two new cables (Mix & Prop) directly from the Mfg. and speci fied the length I wanted. They are a bit pricey (about twice Vans prices) t hat way but well worth the extra money to get the proper length for proper routing. - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: - -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -========================


    Message 18


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    Time: 11:04:15 PM PST US
    From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Propeller exchange?
    I am considering a propeller change from Van=99s supplied Hartzell 2 blade blended airfoil: C2YR-1BFP/F8068D TO the MT 3 blade: MTV12B/193-53 recommended for the RV10. My Hartzell has 300 hours since new, has been maintained IAW the Hartzell manual and has no damage. In exchange for a new unused MT I would have Hartzell blades factory re-painted. This propeller has provided great performance and is well balanced on my aircraft. Exchange would include the entire spinner assembly, preferable with both propellers. Any one interested? What cash differential? Dick Sipp RV10-N110DV 40065 300 hours




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