Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:36 AM - Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures (Bob Leffler)
2. 03:50 AM - Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures (Bill Watson)
3. 05:38 AM - Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures (Jesse Saint)
4. 05:54 AM - Mixing Brake Fluids (dmaib@me.com)
5. 06:40 AM - Re: Mixing Brake Fluids (Tim Olson)
6. 06:52 AM - Ethanol and Proseal (Jesse Saint)
7. 07:06 AM - Re: Ethanol and Proseal (Pascal)
8. 07:07 AM - Re: Ethanol and Proseal (Ronald Walker)
9. 07:21 AM - Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures (Tim Olson)
10. 07:24 AM - Re: Mixing Brake Fluids (George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ)
11. 07:49 AM - Re: Mixing Brake Fluids (rleffler)
12. 08:04 AM - Re: Re: Mixing Brake Fluids (Tim Olson)
13. 08:08 AM - Re: Re: Mixing Brake Fluids (George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ)
14. 10:07 AM - Re: Mixing Brake Fluids (rleffler)
15. 11:04 AM - FS: Zulu headset $100 less than regular price (Tim Olson)
16. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Chris Johnston)
17. 01:02 PM - Re: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Rob Kochman)
18. 01:05 PM - Re: Ethanol and Proseal (Kelly McMullen)
19. 01:34 PM - Re: Ethanol and Proseal (Linn Walters)
20. 02:27 PM - Re: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (Les Kearney)
21. 09:04 PM - How are things with you?3333 (Dan Benua)
22. 10:51 PM - Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals (AirMike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fwf/engine hanging procedures |
As many have mentioned, I purchased these parts that are indicated on FF1-3
that would be easier to install before the engine mount.
I wanted to get the engine mounted so that I could start working on the
cowl. Since I'm on the incur no debt plan, I didn't have the cash for the
FWF kit. So to more effectively manage my budget, I just ordered these
parts in advance. I'll order the rest of the FWF kit a few months down the
road.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, rvdave wrote:
davidbf@centurytel.net>
Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet
have the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing
engine again and again while working on things between engine mount and
firewall or can I plan on one time permanent mount?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
I mounted & removed mine once (with FWF kit) so I could do the cowl
fitting and for inspiration.
I would suggest not trying to remove or re-install with the prop
attached. The initial mounting was a surprisingly easy 1 person
operation. However, with the prop on it, I just couldn't coax it back
onto the mounting. It seemed like it shouldn't matter but once I
decided to remove the prop (multi-person op 3 weeks later), the engine
slipped on in 15 min.
Bill
On 12/2/2010 9:04 PM, rvdave wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"<davidbf@centurytel.net>
>
> Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet have
the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing engine again
and again while working on things between engine mount and firewall or can
I plan on one time permanent mount?
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
With that stuff mounted you should be fine with a final mount of the
engine. Do you have the control cables? Make sure you have the holes
enlarged and then you should be good to route them with the engine on.
All of those parts listed are the parts that can be installed after the
engine is on, but are much easier installed before the engine.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Dec 3, 2010, at 5:30 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> As many have mentioned, I purchased these parts that are indicated on
FF1-3 that would be easier to install before the engine mount.
>
> I wanted to get the engine mounted so that I could start working on
the cowl. Since I'm on the incur no debt plan, I didn't have the cash
for the FWF kit. So to more effectively manage my budget, I just
ordered these parts in advance. I'll order the rest of the FWF kit a
few months down the road.
>
> Bob
>
> <image001.jpg>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't
yet have the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be
removing engine again and again while working on things between engine
mount and firewall or can I plan on one time permanent mount?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Mixing Brake Fluids |
Is there any problem adding Royco 782 to my brake system that currently has 5606
in it?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322154#322154
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
I can't tell you the answer since I don't know for sure, but,
I found it really easy to drain out the old, and just pump in
the new when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20100328/index.html
One other thing I did previously was replace the puck o-rings
with ones that handle higher temps:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
So those would be 2 good things to do at the same time to
avoid the headache of bleeding them twice.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 12/3/2010 7:52 AM, dmaib@me.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@me.com"<dmaib@me.com>
>
> Is there any problem adding Royco 782 to my brake system that currently has 5606
in it?
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322154#322154
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Ethanol and Proseal |
Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles Ethanol? We are thinking about making some "wet wing" tanks for our Maverick flying car (www.mavericklsa.com), but it needs to be able to handle ethanol.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
call flamemaster (if you have the Vans seal) they will be able to tell you
for sure. I called them to ask about acid etch and they were quick to tell
me that it was not an issue.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 6:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Ethanol and Proseal
>
> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles Ethanol?
> We are thinking about making some "wet wing" tanks for our Maverick flying
> car (www.mavericklsa.com), but it needs to be able to handle ethanol.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
On Fri, 2010-12-03 at 09:49 -0500, Jesse Saint wrote:
> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
> Ethanol?
My neighbor built a Mazda Renesis powered RV7a and has been running 91
octane MoGas since about 2005. This year, TX went to adding ethanol too
all it's fuel and his tanks are now blistering paint at most all of the
top side tank rivets. The bottoms seem ok so far, theorizing that
something about the ethanol vapor doesn't play nice with the proseal.
He's now running 100LL and no new blistering has shown up.
Just some real world anecdotal evidence.
Ron
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
I mounted mine only once too. It wasn't a big deal. As long as the
oil filter isn't sticking out the back you can work on those cable
holes and such. Anything you can do on the firewall before
the engine will be easier, but if you just follow plans order
you'll get by fine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 12/3/2010 1:46 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> I mounted mine only once. If you have a pretty standard setup, mount
> stuff and put the firewall penetrations where Van's tells you to, and do
> the things Van's tells you to do before mounting the engine, it works
> out fine. I did add a couple extra holes later on the upper part of the
> firewall, but there's plenty of room to work up there, even with the
> engine on.
> I'd recommend getting the FWF kit now, or at least the few items you
> need to install before mounting the engine.
> -Rob
>
> On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 8:12 PM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com
> <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>> wrote:
>
> <jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>>
>
> If you don't have the fwf kit yet you'll want to pull it off again.
> Lots of stuff gets mounted on the fw that is easier w/o the engine on.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
> www.mavericklsa.com <http://www.mavericklsa.com/>
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, "rvdave" <davidbf@centurytel.net
> <mailto:davidbf@centurytel.net>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:davidbf@centurytel.net>>
> >
> > Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I
> don't yet have the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to
> be removing engine again and again while working on things between
> engine mount and firewall or can I plan on one time permanent mount?
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 flying
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322125#322125
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >nd Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> /" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
> http:/r generous support!
> nics List Features Navigator to browse
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> =============
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Mixing Brake Fluids |
David -
Royco 782 is formulated to meet MIL-PRF-83282, and is compatible with fluids
that meet MIL-5606.
Tim offers sound advise. Changing the O-rings to Viton and flushing the
system with fresh 83282 will increase your hot-brake and flash-point
margins.
Neal
=============
Is there any problem adding Royco 782 to my brake system that currently has
5606 in it?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
Neal,
Do we need to swap the o-rings prior to installing 83282? Or is that only because
5606 was previously used?
thanks,
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322170#322170
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
They're just better, higher temp o-rings. You can swap them
anytime. Ideally you'll do it before first taxi, because there
have already been near brake fires from people fast taxi-ing.
Ideally you'll start with the good fluid initially, too.
I did the o-ring swap after another RV-10 builder showed me
that his brakes and wheels heated up enough to actually
melt his tires during a fast taxi experience....only took
a couple minutes, and there was smoke pouring from his wheels.
So he ordered o-rings that were Viton and sent me a couple
to install. Then later, I changed out my fluid as well.
Either fluid is compatible with either o-ring...you're
just changing to better of both.
Also, I do know at least one builder who used DOT5 (?) fluid
and they did NOT have good luck with compatibility of the
o-rings (not sure which type)....so if by some chance you're
going down that road, you really should plan to look at the
entire system to make sure everything is compatible with
DOT5....but I recommend just going to the 83282 fluid
that is made for aircraft use.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 12/3/2010 9:46 AM, rleffler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rleffler"<rv@thelefflers.com>
>
> Neal,
>
> Do we need to swap the o-rings prior to installing 83282? Or is that only because
5606 was previously used?
>
> thanks,
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Finish
> RV-10 #40684
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322170#322170
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
The Buna O-rings that came on the pucks are compatible with the MIL-83282,
but Viton has higher temp limits - like 425*F (Viton) vs 285*F (Buna) if
memory serves.
neal
-----Original Message-----
Neal,
Do we need to swap the o-rings prior to installing 83282? Or is that only
because 5606 was previously used?
thanks,
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
Tim, Neal,
Thanks for the information!
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322180#322180
Message 15
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| Subject: | FS: Zulu headset $100 less than regular price |
I got a headset bought 11/24, delivered 11/26, used 11/28 for .6 hours
headset....Lightspeed Zulu:P, panel powered headset with LEMO plug.
These are $900 new, I paid $850 on current sales pre-Christmas.
I'll sell it for $800 if you're interested. It's the Zulu
with Lightspeed, and has the single-connector LEMO plug to make
sure I'm clear on what this is.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
ha. 90 years indeed... I recently decided to rework my door frames for the MC
door seals, and it didn't turn out to be that big of a deal. the biggest bummer
is that I had to cut the gas strut mount out of the overhead console. I bought
the Planearound strut mount, and it's pretty much a drop in replacement.
I'm super happy with how the door frames/seals work now, as I've also got the
Planearound 3rd door latch thingy (90 retrofit model). I've been covered in
dust for the duration of the project, but it really worked out nice.
cj
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Marks [robin@PaintTheWeb.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right amount
of time to rework the doors.
On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice available. Better
now than later.
Robin
Sent from Android phone
Probably while driving
On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob@gmail.com<mailto:rv10rob@gmail.com>> wrote:
I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without significantly
reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing sometime this
century :)
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B. <cfxoa@klis.com<mailto:cfxoa@klis.com>> wrote:
Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used thanks to
others before us and are very pleased with it.
Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
> ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
/" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http:/r generous support!<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> nics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/<http://ronics.com/>" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
=============
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
Out of curiosity, when using the mcmaster seals on the cabin top, what do
the seals press against? If you're using an interior, I'd imagine you'd
have to end it before the point at which the seals presses.
-Rob
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Chris Johnston <CJohnston@popsound.com>wrote:
>
> ha. 90 years indeed... I recently decided to rework my door frames for
> the MC door seals, and it didn't turn out to be that big of a deal. the
> biggest bummer is that I had to cut the gas strut mount out of the overhead
> console. I bought the Planearound strut mount, and it's pretty much a drop
> in replacement. I'm super happy with how the door frames/seals work now, as
> I've also got the Planearound 3rd door latch thingy (90 retrofit model).
> I've been covered in dust for the duration of the project, but it really
> worked out nice.
>
> cj
> ________________________________________
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> [robin@PaintTheWeb.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:35 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
>
> Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right
> amount of time to rework the doors.
> On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice
> available. Better now than later.
>
> Robin
> Sent from Android phone
> Probably while driving
>
> On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob@gmail.com<mailto:
> rv10rob@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without
> significantly reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing
> sometime this century :)
>
> -Rob
>
> On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B. <cfxoa@klis.com<mailto:
> cfxoa@klis.com>> wrote:
> cfxoa@klis.com>>
>
> Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used
> thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it.
> Ron
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
>
> > ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
>
> /" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
> http:/r generous support!<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
> > nics List Features Navigator to browse
>
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com/<http://ronics.com/>" target="_blank">
> http://forums.matronics.com
> =============
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
I knew an individual that used auto fuel in a 180hp Mooney with
prosealed tanks. The 60's vintage sealant clearly was not as good, and
it all softened and turned to goo over time. Just from auto gas, not
with ethanol.
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Ronald Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On Fri, 2010-12-03 at 09:49 -0500, Jesse Saint wrote:
>> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
>> Ethanol?
>
> My neighbor built a Mazda Renesis powered RV7a and has been running 91
> octane MoGas since about 2005. This year, TX went to adding ethanol too
> all it's fuel and his tanks are now blistering paint at most all of the
> top side tank rivets. The bottoms seem ok so far, theorizing that
> something about the ethanol vapor doesn't play nice with the proseal.
> He's now running 100LL and no new blistering has shown up.
>
> Just some real world anecdotal evidence.
>
> Ron
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
Somewhere in the not-too-distant-past was a thread that basically said
that the old stuff was softened by auto fuel .... and most likely auto
fuel with ethanol ..... but the newer stuff is tolerant of both. Now
that comes from my memory which is suspect. I would suggest going to
the manufacturer (flamemaster) to get the straight scoop lest urban
legend bite you in the ...... fuel tank.
Linn
On 12/3/2010 4:01 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> I knew an individual that used auto fuel in a 180hp Mooney with
> prosealed tanks. The 60's vintage sealant clearly was not as good, and
> it all softened and turned to goo over time. Just from auto gas, not
> with ethanol.
>
> On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Ronald Walker<n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Ronald Walker<n520tx@gmail.com>
>>
>> On Fri, 2010-12-03 at 09:49 -0500, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
>>> Ethanol?
>> My neighbor built a Mazda Renesis powered RV7a and has been running 91
>> octane MoGas since about 2005. This year, TX went to adding ethanol too
>> all it's fuel and his tanks are now blistering paint at most all of the
>> top side tank rivets. The bottoms seem ok so far, theorizing that
>> something about the ethanol vapor doesn't play nice with the proseal.
>> He's now running 100LL and no new blistering has shown up.
>>
>> Just some real world anecdotal evidence.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
Rob
It compresses against the door interior (not the edge)
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: December-03-10 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
Out of curiosity, when using the mcmaster seals on the cabin top, what do
the seals press against? If you're using an interior, I'd imagine you'd
have to end it before the point at which the seals presses.
-Rob
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Chris Johnston <CJohnston@popsound.com>
wrote:
ha. 90 years indeed... I recently decided to rework my door frames for the
MC door seals, and it didn't turn out to be that big of a deal. the biggest
bummer is that I had to cut the gas strut mount out of the overhead console.
I bought the Planearound strut mount, and it's pretty much a drop in
replacement. I'm super happy with how the door frames/seals work now, as
I've also got the Planearound 3rd door latch thingy (90 retrofit model).
I've been covered in dust for the duration of the project, but it really
worked out nice.
cj
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
[robin@PaintTheWeb.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right
amount of time to rework the doors.
On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice
available. Better now than later.
Robin
Sent from Android phone
Probably while driving
On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman"
<rv10rob@gmail.com<mailto:rv10rob@gmail.com>> wrote:
I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without
significantly reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing
sometime this century :)
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B.
<cfxoa@klis.com<mailto:cfxoa@klis.com>> wrote:
<cfxoa@klis.com<mailto:cfxoa@klis.com>>
Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used
thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it.
Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
> ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
/" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
<http://www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/> >
omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http:/r generous support!<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> nics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/<http://ronics.com/>" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
=============
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
/" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http:/r generous <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> support!
nics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
=============
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 21
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| Subject: | How are things with you?3333 |
22/1/13
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
I tried a foam seal filling the gap and finally decided to go for the McM seal.
It gives a nice finished edge and apparently is gaining popularity.
The McM seal definitely takes some time to install - lots of dust and cutting,
but in the end looks great.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322236#322236
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