Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:27 AM - Firewall Forward Kit (rwwende)
2. 08:14 AM - Re: Firewall Forward Kit (Deems Davis)
3. 11:17 AM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (Chuck Weyant)
4. 12:25 PM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (Kelly McMullen)
5. 12:53 PM - Re: Firewall Forward Kit (Bob Leffler)
6. 04:17 PM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (Chuck Weyant)
7. 05:15 PM - FS: Bose Aviation X headsets (2) $550 ea (Tim Olson)
8. 05:24 PM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (David Maib)
9. 06:05 PM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (Pascal)
10. 06:06 PM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (Michael Kraus)
11. 07:18 PM - Re: Re: Attaching Fairing (Kelly McMullen)
12. 07:38 PM - Baggage door cover (aerosport1)
13. 09:39 PM - Re: Baggage door cover (Marcus Cooper)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Firewall Forward Kit |
Is it best to purchase the ff kit or purchase items seperately?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324800#324800
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward Kit |
IMO it would depend on what decision you make/made regarding engine/cowl
& whether or not you were adding A/C etc. If you are planning on staying
completely Stock as per vans recommendations, then your better off
ordering the FF kit from vans, if your decisions include different cold
air induction/AFP fuel injection/James cowl/a
On 12/28/2010 8:24 AM, rwwende wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rwwende"<rwendell@hydro-splash.com>
>
> Is it best to purchase the ff kit or purchase items seperately?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324800#324800
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These things
made of gold or what?
$2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That's $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut
plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more valuable
so as to make them a good value, but me? I've got the time to do it Van's
way.and that's why I picked two Van's products --- good airplane and a
better value.
Chuck
RV9A completed
RV10 completed
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------
The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No
nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to
propagate cracks. I put all of 10 min prep on the parts beyond what the
plans call for, mostly sanding and chemical wipe to ensure surface the
adhesive would bond to. Less than 30 min to install 100 nutplates, less
than 1 hour total with prep, install and clean up. Wait 24 hours to cure,
then pull the silicone rubber fixtures and install parts. I couldn't have
riveted the nut plates in double the time, nut counting drilling and
deburring.
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 7:40 PM, dmaib@me.com <dmaib@me.com> wrote:
I did not learn about Click Bond products until I had already installed the
nutplates on the lower rudder fairing. If I was doing it again, I would
definitely use Click Bond and would probably use them on all of the tip
fairings just for things like repainting and antennas as mentioned by Kelly.
I am a big fan of Click Bond products, even though they are a bit pricey.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings. If you
like taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out
the rivets when you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly look
of the pop rivets.......your choice. Not to mention getting to repair or
replace the fairing when the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop
rivet tension and vibration. That is why we get to make choices with
homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and be happy, or you can "improve"
all you want. Just takes time and money.
On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These
> things made of gold or what?
>
> $2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! Thats $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut
> plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more
> valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? Ive got the time to
> do it Vans wayand thats why I picked two Vans products --- good
> airplane and a better value.
>
> Chuck
>
> RV9A completed
>
> RV10 completed
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No
> nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to
> propagate cracks. *
> *
>
> *==========
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | Firewall Forward Kit |
As Deems mentioned, it really depends on how stock you plan to implement.
I'm using a different oil cooler and air filter than in the kit. I've got
quotes and am currently looking at the fwf kit hoses versus a third party.
I also have to get longer throttle cables.
Since I'm an anal IT type that is very detail orientated, I put together a
spreadsheet with all the kit part costs. The problem doing a complete
analysis is that all the misc parts bags can't be assigned an accurate
cost. It appears for me, that it's a flip of the coin. I'll probably
order the FWF kit with the items I don't need deleted.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rwwende
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Forward Kit
Is it best to purchase the ff kit or purchase items seperately?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324800#324800
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
I don't know how you build airplanes, but I haven't had to drill out one
rivet to "remove a fairing". And I don't have many "pop rivets" in my
airplanes either. And I'll put my airplane up to most of the stuff I've
seen built too. As I said, If you want to spend the extra money, have at
it. I can tell you from building two Van's airplanes that if you build it
per the plans and supplied kit parts and exercise some semblance of talent,
you'll end up with an airplane to be proud of and you don't have to spend a
lot of extra money on "labor savors". It was a "labor" of love for me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Attaching Fairing
Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings. If you
like taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out
the rivets when you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly look
of the pop rivets.......your choice. Not to mention getting to repair or
replace the fairing when the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop
rivet tension and vibration. That is why we get to make choices with
homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and be happy, or you can "improve"
all you want. Just takes time and money.
On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These
> things made of gold or what?
>
> $2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That's $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut
> plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more
> valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? I've got the time to
> do it Van's way.and that's why I picked two Van's products --- good
> airplane and a better value.
>
> Chuck
>
> RV9A completed
>
> RV10 completed
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | FS: Bose Aviation X headsets (2) $550 ea |
I have 2 Bose Aviation X headsets for sale. They're both panel powered
models. They work fine and are in good shape. One does have some
scuffing on the Bose logo on the earcup...only cosmetic. I can take
pictures if you need. $550 each.
Shoot me an OFF-line email if you're interested.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
Well, I haven't had to drill out a rivet to remove a fairing either.
But, if one ever needs to remove a tip fairing on a "built to plans"
RV, he/she will be drilling out some pop rivets. But, that's not the
point. We get to build these airplanes the way we want to build them.
The snarky "I don't know how you build airplanes" type of comment is
pretty much junior high stuff, IMHO. I get to choose where I want to
spend money on my airplane and that's part of the beauty of it. I've
done some things that I think improved the product, and I have done a
few that did not. That's called experimental. I have just a few Click
Bond nutplates on my airplane. If I was doing it again, I would have
more. I think they are a superior fastener in some situations.
$.02 worth and nomex flame suit donned.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Dec 28, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
> <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
>
> I don't know how you build airplanes, but I haven't had to drill
> out one
> rivet to "remove a fairing". And I don't have many "pop rivets" in my
> airplanes either. And I'll put my airplane up to most of the stuff
> I've
> seen built too. As I said, If you want to spend the extra money,
> have at
> it. I can tell you from building two Van's airplanes that if you
> build it
> per the plans and supplied kit parts and exercise some semblance of
> talent,
> you'll end up with an airplane to be proud of and you don't have to
> spend a
> lot of extra money on "labor savors". It was a "labor" of love for
> me.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> McMullen
> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 12:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Attaching Fairing
>
>
> Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
> Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings.
> If you
> like taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out
> the rivets when you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly
> look
> of the pop rivets.......your choice. Not to mention getting to
> repair or
> replace the fairing when the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop
> rivet tension and vibration. That is why we get to make choices with
> homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and be happy, or you can
> "improve"
> all you want. Just takes time and money.
>
>
> On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>>
>> Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These
>> things made of gold or what?
>>
>> $2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That's $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut
>> plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more
>> valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? I've got the
>> time to
>> do it Van's way.and that's why I picked two Van's products --- good
>> airplane and a better value.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>> RV9A completed
>>
>> RV10 completed
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
I have removed a fairing after pop riveting it , it was a pain to drill out
the rivets but I made the correction and pop riveted the fairing back on. If
I need to do it again, I will, it wasn't a big deal. I agree with spend your
money wherever you want, to some, the kit is perfect the way it is, to
others there are some mandatory aftermarkets parts that need to be used as
replacements.
The reason I don't use click bond or any other great part is because I am
quite ignorant of options until I determine an option is needed and I
research it, only than to find out that I wished I knew about it. The click
bond feedback is great for those who want that option, no one said we "had"
to get it for the fairing, just that it's an option.
Let's stick to RV-10 stuff and working together, I have a hard enough time
keeping up with my daughter's Kindergarden to be able to handle any Jr High
stuff on this list.
I appreciate the click bond feedback BTW, I may be able to use it for
something else.
P
--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Maib" <dmaib@mac.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Attaching Fairing
>
> Well, I haven't had to drill out a rivet to remove a fairing either. But,
> if one ever needs to remove a tip fairing on a "built to plans" RV,
> he/she will be drilling out some pop rivets. But, that's not the point.
> We get to build these airplanes the way we want to build them. The snarky
> "I don't know how you build airplanes" type of comment is pretty much
> junior high stuff, IMHO. I get to choose where I want to spend money on
> my airplane and that's part of the beauty of it. I've done some things
> that I think improved the product, and I have done a few that did not.
> That's called experimental. I have just a few Click Bond nutplates on my
> airplane. If I was doing it again, I would have more. I think they are a
> superior fastener in some situations.
>
> $.02 worth and nomex flame suit donned.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Flying
>
> On Dec 28, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
>>
>> I don't know how you build airplanes, but I haven't had to drill out one
>> rivet to "remove a fairing". And I don't have many "pop rivets" in my
>> airplanes either. And I'll put my airplane up to most of the stuff I've
>> seen built too. As I said, If you want to spend the extra money, have
>> at
>> it. I can tell you from building two Van's airplanes that if you build
>> it
>> per the plans and supplied kit parts and exercise some semblance of
>> talent,
>> you'll end up with an airplane to be proud of and you don't have to
>> spend a
>> lot of extra money on "labor savors". It was a "labor" of love for me.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>> McMullen
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 12:21 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Attaching Fairing
>>
>>
>> Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
>> Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings. If you
>> like taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out
>> the rivets when you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly look
>> of the pop rivets.......your choice. Not to mention getting to repair or
>> replace the fairing when the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop
>> rivet tension and vibration. That is why we get to make choices with
>> homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and be happy, or you can "improve"
>> all you want. Just takes time and money.
>>
>>
>> On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>>>
>>> Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These
>>> things made of gold or what?
>>>
>>> $2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That's $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut
>>> plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more
>>> valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? I've got the time to
>>> do it Van's way.and that's why I picked two Van's products --- good
>>> airplane and a better value.
>>>
>>> Chuck
>>>
>>> RV9A completed
>>>
>>> RV10 completed
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
So I disagree. I have a RV-4 with riveted on empennage fairings. It's been flying
for over 8 years and almost 400 hours and there are no cracks. You just
need to fill the gap and lay a layer or 2 of light fiberglass over the seam.....
Done PROPERLY, it looks much better than any screws will ever look. You get
a nice smooth seamless transition. I have never had to remove the fairings
and don't see a need to ever remove them.
Paint your plane, take off the fairings a couple of times and see what your paint
looks like around the screws... A lot worse than you'll probably expect.
Build it the way you want, but don't say the 'Vans way' doesn't work. Nothing
works if not done properly.
-Mike
RV-4 flying
RV-7 flying
RV-10 flying
RV-10 Finish work
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 28, 2010, at 3:21 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
> Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings. If you like
taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out the rivets when
you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly look of the pop rivets.......your
choice. Not to mention getting to repair or replace the fairing when
the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop rivet tension and vibration. That
is why we get to make choices with homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and
be happy, or you can "improve" all you want. Just takes time and money.
>
>
> On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>>
>> Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These things made of gold or what?
>>
>> $2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! Thats $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut plates!
I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more valuable so as to
make them a good value, but me? Ive got the time to do it Vans wayand thats why
I picked two Vans products --- good airplane and a better value.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>> RV9A completed
>>
>> RV10 completed
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No nutplate
holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to propagate cracks.
*
>> *
>>
>> *==========
>> *
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Fairing |
I for one, was not trying to start any arguments. Homebuilt lets us all
build the way we want to do it. Some of us have been doing aircraft
maintenance for the past 35 yrs and choose to spend a few bucks to make
future maintenance easier. Some like to make the finish on the RV10 look
like a fiberglass airplane, some don't. Some follow the plans to the letter,
some don't. There isn't one right way. I have some glassed in pop rivets in
need of replacement right now, as vibration and stress have worn the pop
rivet hole to the point it no longer holds. No, it isn't on an RV. Take a
close look at the glass on your wing tips around the nut plates. Odds are
strong there will be cracks in the glass there in the next few years. Vans
emphasises minimizing cost of materials. Nothing wrong with that. Does leave
room for improvement. Nobody knows what antennas we will have to have for
ADS-B and whatever other electronics the FAA foists on us in the next ten
years either. I'd rather have places to hide those gizmos without needing to
drill out a bunch of rivets. Your choice is just that, and I'm certain it
makes sense for you and that is wonderful. Where would we be without the
folks that built before us and made a lot of different choices, leaving many
forks in the road. Some were even kind enough to post their efforts on the
web, and others designed some superior products and offered them to those
that liked them. Some build pure stock per plans, and that is great too. But
the real question is what primer did you use. ;-)
Kelly
A&P/IA
EAA Tech Counselor
On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 7:04 PM, Michael Kraus
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>wrote:
> >
>
> So I disagree. I have a RV-4 with riveted on empennage fairings. It's
> been flying for over 8 years and almost 400 hours and there are no cracks.
> You just need to fill the gap and lay a layer or 2 of light fiberglass over
> the seam..... Done PROPERLY, it looks much better than any screws will ever
> look. You get a nice smooth seamless transition. I have never had to
> remove the fairings and don't see a need to ever remove them.
>
> Paint your plane, take off the fairings a couple of times and see what your
> paint looks like around the screws... A lot worse than you'll probably
> expect.
>
> Build it the way you want, but don't say the 'Vans way' doesn't work.
> Nothing works if not done properly.
>
> -Mike
> RV-4 flying
> RV-7 flying
> RV-10 flying
> RV-10 Finish work
>
> Do not archive
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 28, 2010, at 3:21 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Baggage door cover |
Thought I would show some pictures of the new baggage door cover coming out soon.
It will hold a quart of oil and much more. It has a gas strut to keep the door
from flapping in the wind. You can also remove the pin on the door and open
the door all the way if needed.
Geoff
www.aerosportproducts.com
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324878#324878
Attachments:
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/baggage2_773.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/baggage1_122.jpg
Message 13
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| Subject: | Baggage door cover |
Looks nice, do you have a price on it yet?
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosport1
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door cover
--> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Thought I would show some pictures of the new baggage door cover coming out
soon. It will hold a quart of oil and much more. It has a gas strut to keep
the door from flapping in the wind. You can also remove the pin on the door
and open the door all the way if needed.
Geoff
www.aerosportproducts.com
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324878#324878
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/baggage3_107.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/baggage2_773.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/baggage1_122.jpg
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