Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:24 AM - Re: Alternate Air intake (Scott Schmidt)
2. 09:32 AM - Re: Alternate Air intake (Tim Olson)
3. 10:48 AM - Miscellaneous end of year questions (Les Kearney)
4. 11:56 AM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Linn Walters)
5. 12:21 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (rv10flyer)
6. 12:33 PM - Re: countersinks/dimples (Werner Schneider)
7. 12:38 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Kelly McMullen)
8. 12:41 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Pascal)
9. 12:45 PM - Re: countersinks/dimples (rv10flyer)
10. 01:09 PM - Re: Alternate Air intake (Bob Turner)
11. 01:12 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Bob Turner)
12. 01:21 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Linn Walters)
13. 01:26 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Dave Saylor)
14. 01:35 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Tim Olson)
15. 03:13 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
16. 03:53 PM - New Years Building Inspiration (Robin Marks)
17. 05:57 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Bruce Johnson)
18. 06:49 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (DLM)
19. 09:25 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (Bruce Johnson)
20. 09:45 PM - Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions (DLM)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate Air intake |
Yes and think of the engine quitting.
The alt air is an emergency system. I don't think I would pull it unless MP b
ecame so low that airspeed or altitude could not be maintained.
I read a report a few years back of a Pitts that sucked a bird in the inlet h
ole that caused the engine to quit. The pilot made an emergency landing and I
believe damaged the airplane doing so. After he was upset at himself for no
t going through his emergency checklist. Pulling the alt air would have made
this a non-event.
If you pull it you will be landing at the next airport to check what happen
ed and reset.
On Dec 30, 2010, at 9:02 PM, "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
> OK, agreed. But let's follow this icing scenario. I am flying along and no
tice a drop in MP as the filter and maybe a drop in AS as the pitot ices up.
I add throttle and get little response, maybe a drop in EGT. So I suspect i
cing? I pull Alt Air (it's reversible). MP gradually increases. AS continues
to drop. I look at the GPS ground speed and see no change. I am thinking, t
he pitot is icing over, the engine filter was icing over but the Alt Air is w
orking and keeping the engine going near normal. I descent looking for warme
r air.
>
> Is this the right way to work through this?
>
> Roger
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: DLM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 6:48 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternate Air intake
>
> The control only bypasses filtering air to the engine. So a ground reset i
s not an issue. If it is ever used the PIC won't be worrying about reset but
getting the iced up 10 on the ground.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Roger Standley
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternate Air intake
>
> I don't usually get worked up over threads like this but I have a problem w
ith any control in the cabin that is not reversible. Under what conditions (
scenario) would you pull such a control, realizing that once you did, you ca
n't reverse it? I am not trying to be ornery here, just trying to learn some
thing so please educate me.
>
> Roger
>
> -----
> Original Message -----
> From: Jesse Saint
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 5:41 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternate Air intake
>
> There have already been a lot of replies, but IIRC, the plans call the tra
p door in the front of the FAB the "alternate air" and the one on the bottom
the "air filter bypass". I think the air filter bypass is definitely neede
d, but not the alternate air, which really, as Tim mentioned, just acts as a
carb heat. I have personally never had to use either. In the case of icin
g conditions, I can see how the alternate air could possibly be a help that c
ould avoid needing to bypass the filter, but beyond that one scenario, the a
lternate air seems to add no service. I always install the bypass door so i
t an be closed by pushing the knob, but I realize that if it has to be used,
it will likely not need to be closed again in flight, so that's probably no
t very important.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Dec 30, 2010, at 11:57 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>> Yeah I'm not asking about the static, that's pretty easy and I have it in
stalled. I'm more concerned with a blocked filter scenario.
>>
>> Does anyone have photos of their installation? Cowling mods, etc? I'm t
rying to get my mind around the plumbing, etc.
>>
>> Thanks for the help,
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate Air intake |
You may notice a gradual drop in MP as the filter ices
up, but you said "I pull Alt Air (it's reversible). MP
gradually increases." You have to get out of the mindset
of carbureted engines. If you pull the alternate air,
your engine will now have a free and open path to
air. It won't be gradual, if indeed your filter is
icing up. It will be instantaneous.
Also remember that our IO-540's, if you're fuel injected,
don't have carburetor venturis to ice up. Carbs ice
up because of the pressure changes happening due to
the venturi. We just have a big gaping hole. IO's
don't have to worry about icing in a carb. So, for
us, having an alternate air door should be plenty.
If you pull it, it's open. It will stay open the
whole flight, and honestly, there is NOTHING wrong
with that unless you're flying in dusty/dirty
conditions. We really wouldn't even NEED an intake
filter if we didn't care about it being clean. So
it really isn't a big deal. If you pull the Alt
Air accidentally, just close it when on the ground, but
it's not something that means you have to land immediately.
If you pull it on purpose, then you were probably in
conditions you don't want to continue on in anyway,
so land, close it, and go stay in a hotel.
The pitot icing over is completely a separate thing,
and of course, any time you're operating below freezing
you can just turn on the pitot heat and you likely
won't have an issue. If you test the pitot heat
before any flight where you COULD have an issue
(IFR in the clouds or such), then you won't likely
have a problem there. The biggest problem is probably
forgetting to turn it on in the first place.
The alternate static is something that if you're flying
IFR you should really have. It's dead simple to
come up with at least some method of opening the
static line inside the cockpit. There are all sorts of
cool valves and such that you can use. Mine is a
simple lever-lift toggle valve, next to my Left knee
on the sidewall up high, just below the panel.
At any rate, I see no real need for an alternate air
pathway on the intake...could be more trouble, actually,
than it would be worth. The alternate air on the bottom
of the air box though, is one you should definitely
install....although in nearing 700 hours, I've never
had to pull it for any reason in flight....accidental
or on purpose. If I ever did, it wouldn't be a major
deal for me...it just means I was flying in heavy snow
or supercooled clouds and I iced up stuff....and I didn't
belong there in the first place. I have flown before
though in visibility of just over a mile forward,
but 4 or 5 miles out the side windows (surprising
how much worse forward viz can be), in fairly heavy
snow that WASN'T an icing worry. I don't think it's
all that easy to plug these filters up...they can
handle quite a bit.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 12/30/2010 10:02 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
> OK, agreed. But let's follow this icing scenario. I am flying along and
> notice a drop in MP as the filter and maybe a drop in AS as the pitot
> ices up. I add throttle and get little response, maybe a drop in EGT. So
> I suspect icing? I pull Alt Air (it's reversible). MP gradually
> increases. AS continues to drop. I look at the GPS ground speed and see
> no change. I am thinking, the pitot is icing over, the engine filter was
> icing over but the Alt Air is working and keeping the engine going near
> normal. I descent looking for warmer air.
> Is this the right way to work through this?
> Roger
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* DLM <mailto:dlm34077@q.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 30, 2010 6:48 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Alternate Air intake
>
> The control only bypasses filtering air to the engine. So a ground
> reset is not an issue. If it is ever used the PIC won't be worrying
> about reset but getting the iced up 10 on the ground.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Roger Standley <mailto:taildragon@msn.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:31 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Alternate Air intake
>
> I don't usually get worked up over threads like this but I have
> a problem with any control in the cabin that is not reversible.
> Under what conditions (scenario) would you pull such a control,
> realizing that once you did, you can't reverse it? I am not
> trying to be ornery here, just trying to learn something so
> please educate me.
> Roger
> -----
>
> Original Message -----
> *From:* Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 30, 2010 5:41 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Alternate Air intake
>
> There have already been a lot of replies, but IIRC, the
> plans call the trap door in the front of the FAB the
> "alternate air" and the one on the bottom the "air filter
> bypass". I think the air filter bypass is definitely needed,
> but not the alternate air, which really, as Tim mentioned,
> just acts as a carb heat. I have personally never had to use
> either. In the case of icing conditions, I can see how the
> alternate air could possibly be a help that could avoid
> needing to bypass the filter, but beyond that one scenario,
> the alternate air seems to add no service. I always install
> the bypass door so it an be closed by pushing the knob, but
> I realize that if it has to be used, it will likely not need
> to be closed again in flight, so that's probably not very
> important.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Dec 30, 2010, at 11:57 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>> Yeah I'm not asking about the static, that's pretty easy
>> and I have it installed. I'm more concerned with a blocked
>> filter scenario.
>>
>> Does anyone have photos of their installation? Cowling
>> mods, etc? I'm trying to get my mind around the plumbing, etc.
>>
>> Thanks for the help,
>> Phil
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
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>
> *
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for
those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of
the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of
wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an
ongoing issue.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft
tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the
firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the
plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred,
is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical)
and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground
block?
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to
protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My
concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then
again this may be a misplaced concern.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB
wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove
them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these
screws (WD40 etc)?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Happy New Year
Les #40643
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a
primer question. ;-)
Here are mine.
On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions
> for those who know their electrons.
>
> My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel
> wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a
> good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect
> this will be an ongoing issue.
>
I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the
insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll'
the wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'.
Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit
your wire size better.
>
> I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
> aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds
> back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops)
> with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a
> dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering
> grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single
> dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block?
>
The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe
for grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground
point is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the
firewall ..... because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to
there. When I have a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll
collect the grounds at a single point (sub-panel) and then connect to
the firewall connection. In the tail, I have the battery negative
attachment point.
>
> As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way
> to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and
> cracking? My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold
> weather but then again this may be a misplaced concern.
>
Not a concern for me.
>
> On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on
> my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I
> can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to
> removing these screws (WD40 etc)?
>
I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips
screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise
grips apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that
I only use on difficult screws.
Linn
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
> Happy New Year
>
> Les #40643
>
> *
>
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
I am using Ideal Stripmaster Cat# 45-177 16-26 Ga. Not cheap but they work really
well. For larger wires I use a cheap pair from Lowe's. I use single edge razor
on rg-400 or #2 ga.
I am grounding everything locally unless specified by mfr otherwise. All my unprimed
aluminum should conduct electrons just fine. I am using an alodine pen from
SteinAir. I will install forest of tabs behind the panel.
Use nylon wire ties per plans and run your strobe shielded cable(3-16ga) and tail
nav lt wire 18 ga inside lower left stiffener. When exiting the stiffiner use
a 2-3" piece of spiral wrap. I also use ms clamps/standoff brackets. I also
use stick on/rivet on wire tie mounts(ACS). I used heat shrink where it passed
through rear bulkhead to go into bottom rundder fairing. I also drilled hole
to lower left of vs spar so that vs could be installed and removed while wiring
was in place. Deburr hole edges with 320 grit really well. Run spiral wrap
around wiring to tail light/strobe if desired. Tefzel wiring is very good and
flexible unless your flying in the artic. Try lighting it on fire next to a cheap
piece of pvc wiring and note smoke emmitted.
I ran rg-400 and pitch trim cable up right side in same place/same way.
Use a new #2 bit and do it by hand with alot of pressure.
Happy New Year.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- Sec 35 Access covers and
floor panels.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=325127#325127
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: countersinks/dimples |
Rick,
Van's tells in chapter 5 to add 2 more clicks on the countersink tool.
Werner
On 31.12.2010 05:21, Rick Lark wrote:
> Guys
> I need some opinions. I'm working on the main wing spars, and have a
> debate on going with a couple of builders.
> The question is how deep do you make a countersink in the spar flange to
> nest the dimples in the wing skin?
> I've been told (by a reliable source) to make the countersink only deep
> enough so that when a rivet is dropped into the countersunk hole, you
> should see a thin line around the top of the rivet. However at this
> depth, the wing skin does not lay completely tight to the spar flange.
> When I use a scrap and make a test dimple, the countersink is deeper
> than the "thin line" method I've been told.
> All opinions welcomed.
> Regards,
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
> *
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Les,
Any electrical resistive load like a tail light does NOT need a ground
back to the firewall. They don't generate noise and a local ground is
fine. Only avionics and other noise generators like strobes and motors
need a unified ground.
Kelly
On 12/31/2010 11:45 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
> aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds
> back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops)
> with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a
> dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering
> grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single
> dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block?
>
> ***
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Miscellaneous end of year questionsI agree on the points from Linn.
As far as the tight screw.
spray WD-40, let it sit for a while
lightly tap the screwdriver (on the screw) with a hammer to loosen any
locktite and help the lube pentrate
than try loosening- did that work?
no?
grab a heat gun and warm up the screw or just the opposite- dry ice,
than try again
if that doesn't work, get a impact screw driver. I have never had to get
to this point however.
Let us know what worked.
Pascal
From: Linn Walters
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a
primer question. ;-)
Here are mine.
On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions
for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel
wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a
good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect
this will be an ongoing issue.
I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the
insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll'
the wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'.
Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit
your wire size better.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back
to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with
following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated
ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a
common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground
back to the firewall ground block?
The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe
for grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground
point is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the
firewall ..... because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to
there. When I have a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll
collect the grounds at a single point (sub-panel) and then connect to
the firewall connection. In the tail, I have the battery negative
attachment point.
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way
to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking?
My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but
then again this may be a misplaced concern.
Not a concern for me.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on
my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can
remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing
these screws (WD40 etc)?
I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips
screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise
grips apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that
I only use on difficult screws.
Linn
Inquiring minds need to know.
Happy New Year
Les #40643
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: countersinks/dimples |
I made test dimples in .025, .032, .040 with #40, #30, #10(#10 Screw), #19(#8 Screw),
#28(#6 Screw). Using a dial depth micrometer the rivet will set anywhere
from .005-.010" below surface depending on thickness of the dimpled piece. I
only measured when I started the build. Do your first csk a click or two deeper
at a time and check fit of test dimple. If test dimple moves back and forth
sideways you have gone too deep. Go one click shallower and try next hole. Watch
when you get to the ends of your pieces as the csk tool is not supported well
and you can go really deep then. Also clean out burrs from under the tool
each time. Turn the bit slowly and hold the pieces in your hand to better feel
for tool/piece alignment.
Many times I have had to do the csk without the tool because in many places the
smallest microstop won't fit. Then just eyeball the rest to make them match the
first that you used your test dimple on. You can either install a cutter in
90 degree drill kit(snake) or use it in deburring handle(by hand) or duburring
extension(with drill). The csk will not be as pretty but it is usually not in
a visible location and you can always shave/grind a little of the rivet head
away if needed.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- Sec 35 Access covers and
floor panels.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=325134#325134
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Air intake |
small correction: in carbureted engines, most of the cooling is due to the evaporation
of the fuel, not the slight pressure drop.
I see the biggest problem is forgetting you even have the alternate air control
when you need it, since it is never used. Same as the story of the 182 guy with
snow impacting and closing his air filter - carb heat (which is also alternate
air in carbed planes) should have fixed the problem.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=325137#325137
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
I chose to run a separate ground wire for the tail light, along side the power
wire, because it goes within a few feet of where I am remote mounting the remote
compass, and I wanted to minimize stray magnetic fields. This is probably anal
overkill, but that's what I did.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=325138#325138
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
On 12/31/2010 3:39 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I agree on the points from Linn.
> As far as the tight screw.
> spray WD-40, let it sit for a while
> lightly tap the screwdriver (on the screw) with a hammer to loosen any
> locktite and help the lube pentrate
> than try loosening- did that work?
> no?
> grab a heat gun and warm up the screw or just the opposite- dry ice,
> than try again
> if that doesn't work, get a impact screw driver.
DON"T!!!!! Read that again!!!! The hammer force on an impact driver is
enough to deform the structure. Came from experience. :-(
Linn
> I have never had to get to this point however.
> Let us know what worked.
> Pascal
>
> *From:* Linn Walters <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, December 31, 2010 11:52 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
>
> Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from
> a primer question. ;-)
> Here are mine.
> On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions
>> for those who know their electrons.
>>
>> My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel
>> wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of
>> a good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I
>> suspect this will be an ongoing issue.
>>
> I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through
> the insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can
> 'roll' the wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without
> 'sawing'. Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy
> blades that fit your wire size better.
>>
>> I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
>> aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds
>> back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops)
>> with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a
>> dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering
>> grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single
>> dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block?
>>
> The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe
> for grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single
> ground point is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on
> the firewall ..... because I'm running a ground wire along with my
> power to there. When I have a lot of grounds, like the instrument
> panel, I'll collect the grounds at a single point (sub-panel) and then
> connect to the firewall connection. In the tail, I have the battery
> negative attachment point.
>>
>> As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way
>> to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and
>> cracking? My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold
>> weather but then again this may be a misplaced concern.
>>
> Not a concern for me.
>>
>> On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on
>> my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I
>> can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to
>> removing these screws (WD40 etc)?
>>
> I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2
> phillips screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair
> of vise grips apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name
> screwdrivers that I only use on difficult screws.
> Linn
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know...
>>
>> Happy New Year
>>
>> Les #40643
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
> *
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
I use a couple schemes for running wires into the control surfaces.
Other planes have servos in the elevators and ailerons. I use the
same techniques for them.
If you don't have much distance to work with, you can wrap a foot or
so of tefzel wire tightly around a pencil to make your own coiled
wire. The coil tends to spread out the flexing.
Another way to accomplish the same thing is to run the wire as far as
possible in the direction of the hinge line. A foot or more is ideal.
Secure the wire outside the stern post and the rudder spar, so any
motion happens as twist around the long axis of the wire.
A little dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of a screwdriver
works magic on super-tight screws. It really makes the bit grab the
screw without slipping and damaging the screw.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Fri, Dec 31, 2010 at 12:39 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
> I agree on the points from Linn.
> As far as the tight screw.
> spray WD-40, let it sit for a while
> lightly tap the screwdriver (on the screw) with a hammer to loosen any
> locktite and help the lube pentrate
> than try loosening- did that work?
> no?
> grab a heat gun and warm up the screw or just the opposite- dry ice, than
> try again
>
> if that doesn't work, get a impact screw driver. I have never had to get to
> this point however.
>
> Let us know what worked.
> Pascal
> From: Linn Walters
> Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 11:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
> Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a
> primer question. ;-)
> Here are mine.
> On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for
> those who know their electrons.
>
> My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of
> the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of
> wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an
> ongoing issue.
>
> I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the
> insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll' the
> wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'.
> Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit your
> wire size better.
>
> I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft
> tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the
> firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the
> plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred,
> is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical)
> and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground
> block?
>
> The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe for
> grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground point
> is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the firewall .....
> because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to there. When I have
> a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll collect the grounds at a
> single point (sub-panel) and then connect to the firewall connection. In
> the tail, I have the battery negative attachment point.
>
> As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to
> protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My
> concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then
> again this may be a misplaced concern.
>
> Not a concern for me.
>
> On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB
> wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove
> them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these
> screws (WD40 etc)?
>
> I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips
> screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise grips
> apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that I only use
> on difficult screws.
> Linn
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
> Happy New Year
>
> Les #40643
>
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
I have had a few good strippers over the years.
(geez, maybe I shouldn't say that in public? :) )
Right now, my main sets are 2 of these IDEAL T-Strippers.
(also see attached)
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?num=10&hl=en&newwindow=1&q=
ideal+T+stripper&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=395400644739097984&ei=I0YeTeuA
E5O6ngeMwbz8DQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&
ved=0CDQQ8wIwAg#
It's nice because it covers most every gauge that you'll use
in the build, from I think 8 to 26 stranded. It's also very
cheap, and available locally.
It's not the only brand that's good, I'm sure there are dozens.
But, when you find one you like, buy 2....keep one for the
long term. The most important thing is to have one that's
well made and sharp.
Tefzel strips wonderfully. To strip the shielded stuff I
just spin the wire in the blades and bend it to crack the
groove and then pull off the sheath. The wires strip
normally, with no issue. Done a bunch of wires lately.
On your grounding question, for non-noisy loads like those
lights, you can basically do it however you want and you
won't have a problem.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 12/31/2010 12:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions
> for those who know their electrons.
>
> My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires
> of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good
> brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this
> will be an ongoing issue.
>
> I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the af
t
> tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to
> the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with
> following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated
> ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a
> common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated groun
d
> back to the firewall ground block?
>
> As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to
> protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? M
y
> concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but
> then again this may be a misplaced concern.
>
> On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my
> QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can
> remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing
> these screws (WD40 etc)?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know=85
>
> Happy New Year
>
> Les #40643
>
> *
>
===========
com>
uildersbooks.com>
lp.com>
===========
===========
===========
> *
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
I use a thermal wire striper for striping wire. They are a bit expensive bu
t you can sometimes find one on eBay for a decent price. No worries of nick
ing wires with these : http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=stripall+
wire+stripers&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:o
fficial&prmd=ivns&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid
=1185846266203347523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ved=0CEsQ8gIwAQ
#
Do yourself a favor and order a couple hundred of the SS Torx drive 100* sc
rews from these guys,,,,,,no more fooling around with stripped Phillips hea
d screws: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SSC
&SubCategory=FCMXS
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 1:45:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Miscellaneous end of year questions
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for t
hose who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of
the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of
wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ong
oing issue.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft ta
il cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the fi
rewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the p
lans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred,
is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practica
l) and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground b
lock?
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to pro
tect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My conce
rn is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then again
this may be a misplaced concern.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB
wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove t
hem without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these screw
s (WD40 etc)?
Inquiring minds need to know
Happy New Year
==============
Message 16
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| Subject: | New Years Building Inspiration |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR2i9EQRZ50
Available in 720p.
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Just out of curiosity, why are you taking the tanks out? I'm afraid I am go
ing =0Ato have to take mine=C2-out as they are leaking from the outlet po
rt and the =0Asealant is getting real gummy. They are also quick built.=C2
-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "davidsoutpost@c
omcast.net" <davidsoutpost@comcast.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASen
t: Fri, December 31, 2010 4:10:34 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneou
s end of year questions=0A=0A=0AI use a thermal wire striper for striping w
ire.=C2- They are a bit expensive but =0Ayou can sometimes find one on eB
ay for a decent price.=C2- No worries of nicking =0Awires with these:=C2
- =0Ahttp://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=stripall+wire+stripers&hl
=en&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=i
vns&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=118584626620334
7523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ved=0CEsQ8gIwAQ#=0A=0ADo yourself
a favor and order a couple hundred of the SS Torx drive 100* screws =0Afro
m these guys,,,,,,no more fooling around with stripped Phillips head screws
:=C2- =0Ahttp://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SS
C&SubCategory=FCMXS=0A =0A=C2-=0ADavid Clifford=0A=0ARV-10 Builder=0A65
% Done-95% To Go=0AN849RV (reserved)=0A=0A----- Original Message -----=0AFr
om: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: F
riday, December 31, 2010 1:45:20 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end
of year questions =0A=0A=0AHi =0AAs I embark on a new adventure - wiring,
I have a couple of questions for those =0Awho know their electrons. =0A=0AM
y wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of t
he =0ARayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand
of wire =0Astrippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be a
n ongoing issue.=0AI notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light grou
nd is on the aft tail =0Acone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated
grounds back to the firewall =0Aground block. Is there any issue (ground lo
ops) with following the plans? Is a =0Adedicated ground preferable? If a de
dicated ground is preferred, is there any =0Aissue with gathering grounds t
o a common point (were practical) and then running =0Aa single dedicated gr
ound back to the firewall ground block?=0AAs I run wires to the rudder (as
per the pans), what is the best way to protect =0Athese wires from the elem
ents, prevent chaffing and cracking? My concern is that =0Athese wires may
lose flexibility in cold weather but then again this may be a =0Amisplaced
concern. =0A=0AOn the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the
tanks on my QB =0Awings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't th
ink I can remove them =0Awithout stripping the heads. Is there any trick to
removing these screws (WD40 =0Aetc)?=0AInquiring minds need to know
=0AHappy New Year =0ALes #40643 =0A _blank">www.aeroelectric.com "
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com =0A="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.c
om =0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributionget="_blank">http://w
ww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A tp://forums.matronics.com =0A=0A
======================== _
================== =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Are your passengers standing on any part of the tank when
loading/unloading?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Just out of curiosity, why are you taking the tanks out? I'm afraid I
am going to have to take mine out as they are leaking from the outlet
port and the sealant is getting real gummy. They are also quick built.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "davidsoutpost@comcast.net" <davidsoutpost@comcast.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 4:10:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
I use a thermal wire striper for striping wire. They are a bit
expensive but you can sometimes find one on eBay for a decent price. No
worries of nicking wires with these:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=stripall+wire+stripers&hl=en
&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns
&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1185846266203347
523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ved=0CEsQ8gIwAQ#
Do yourself a favor and order a couple hundred of the SS Torx drive
100* screws from these guys,,,,,,no more fooling around with stripped
Phillips head screws:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SSC&SubCate
gory=FCMXS
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 1:45:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions
for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel
wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a
good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect
this will be an ongoing issue.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back
to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with
following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated
ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a
common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground
back to the firewall ground block?
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way
to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking?
My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but
then again this may be a misplaced concern.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on
my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can
remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing
these screws (WD40 etc)?
Inquiring minds need to know
Happy New Year
Les #40643
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com "
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributionget="_blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matroni===================
===== _================
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
Not really, I am still flying my 40 off. They started leaking as soon as I
=0Astarted filling the tanks full.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________
______=0AFrom: DLM <dlm34077@q.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: F
ri, December 31, 2010 7:46:25 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous en
d of year questions=0A=0A=EF=BB =0AAre your passengers standing on any p
art of the tank when loading/unloading?=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>
From: Bruce Johnson =0A>To: rv10-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Friday, Decem
ber 31, 2010 6:53 PM=0A>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year q
uestions=0A>=0A>=0A>Just out of curiosity, why are you taking the tanks out
? I'm afraid I am going =0A>to have to take mine=C2-out as they are leaki
ng from the outlet port and the =0A>sealant is getting real gummy. They are
also quick built.=C2-=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: "davidsoutpost@comcast.net" <davidsoutpost@comcast.net>=0A>To: rv1
0-list@matronics.com=0A>Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 4:10:34 PM=0A>Subject:
Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions=0A>=0A>=0A>I use a ther
mal wire striper for striping wire.=C2- They are a bit expensive but =0A>
you can sometimes find one on eBay for a decent price.=C2- No worries of
nicking =0A>wires with these:=C2- =0A>http://www.google.com/products/cata
log?q=stripall+wire+stripers&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=or
g.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1
&ie=UTF-8&cid=1185846266203347523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ve
d=0CEsQ8gIwAQ#=0A>=0A>Do yourself a favor and order a couple hundred of t
he SS Torx drive 100* screws =0A>from these guys,,,,,,no more fooling aroun
d with stripped Phillips head screws:=C2- =0A>http://www.microfasteners.c
om/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SSC&SubCategory=FCMXS=0A> =0A>=C2-
=0A>David Clifford=0A>=0A>RV-10 Builder=0A>65% Done-95% To Go=0A>N849RV (re
served)=0A>=0A>----- Original Message -----=0A>From: "Les Kearney" <kearney
@shaw.ca>=0A>To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A>Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010
1:45:20 PM=0A>Subject: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions =0A>
=0A>=0A>Hi =0A>As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of
questions for those =0A>who know their electrons. =0A>=0A>My wire strippers
don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of the =0A>RayAllen
servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of wire =0A>str
ippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ongoing issu
e.=0A>I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
aft tail =0A>cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back
to the firewall =0A>ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with f
ollowing the plans? Is a =0A>dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated gr
ound is preferred, is there any =0A>issue with gathering grounds to a commo
n point (were practical) and then running =0A>a single dedicated ground bac
k to the firewall ground block?=0A>As I run wires to the rudder (as per the
pans), what is the best way to protect =0A>these wires from the elements,
prevent chaffing and cracking? My concern is that =0A>these wires may lose
flexibility in cold weather but then again this may be a =0A>misplaced conc
ern. =0A>=0A>On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the ta
nks on my QB =0A>wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't thi
nk I can remove them =0A>without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to
removing these screws (WD40 =0A>etc)?=0A>Inquiring minds need to know
=0A>Happy New Year =0A>Les #40643 =0A> _blank">www.aeroelectric.c
om " target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com =0A>="_blank">www.homebuil
thelp.com =0A>_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributionget="_blank">
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A> tp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matroni==================
====== =0A>_================
=0A>=0A>=0A> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com =0A
>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com =0A>href="ht
tp://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com =0A>href="http://www.ma
tronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A> =0A _
-========================
-========================
==== =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
did you remove one/both? of them to install stall warning? My QBs
stayed on; I never removed them. send me a phone number; I will be back
home tomorrow afternoon.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Not really, I am still flying my 40 off. They started leaking as soon
as I started filling the tanks full.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: DLM <dlm34077@q.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 7:46:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
=EF=BB
Are your passengers standing on any part of the tank when
loading/unloading?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Just out of curiosity, why are you taking the tanks out? I'm afraid
I am going to have to take mine out as they are leaking from the outlet
port and the sealant is getting real gummy. They are also quick built.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: "davidsoutpost@comcast.net" <davidsoutpost@comcast.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 4:10:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
I use a thermal wire striper for striping wire. They are a bit
expensive but you can sometimes find one on eBay for a decent price. No
worries of nicking wires with these:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=stripall+wire+stripers&hl=en
&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns
&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1185846266203347
523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ved=0CEsQ8gIwAQ#
Do yourself a favor and order a couple hundred of the SS Torx drive
100* screws from these guys,,,,,,no more fooling around with stripped
Phillips head screws:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SSC&SubCate
gory=FCMXS
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 1:45:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of
questions for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel
wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a
good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect
this will be an ongoing issue.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back
to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with
following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated
ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a
common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground
back to the firewall ground block?
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way
to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking?
My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but
then again this may be a misplaced concern.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on
my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can
remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing
these screws (WD40 etc)?
Inquiring minds need to know
Happy New Year
Les #40643
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com "
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributionget="_blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matroni===================
===== _================
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