Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:44 AM - Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement (Bob Leffler)
2. 02:55 AM - Re: New product (Phil N)
3. 03:05 AM - Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question (Bob Leffler)
4. 03:44 AM - Re: New product (Werner Schneider)
5. 04:50 AM - Re: New product (Rob Kermanj)
6. 04:58 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Rob Kermanj)
7. 05:43 AM - Leaking tanks (Wayne Hadath)
8. 05:55 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Marcus Cooper)
9. 06:04 AM - Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement (DLM)
10. 06:10 AM - Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question (DLM)
11. 06:36 AM - Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement (DLM)
12. 06:36 AM - Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question (Miller John)
13. 06:36 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Bobby J. Hughes)
14. 06:36 AM - Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question (rleffler)
15. 06:54 AM - Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question (Tim Olson)
16. 06:55 AM - Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement (Pascal)
17. 07:25 AM - Re: New product (Tim Olson)
18. 08:25 AM - Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement (Sean Stephens)
19. 09:08 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Bruce Johnson)
20. 09:49 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Dave Saylor)
21. 10:23 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Bobby J. Hughes)
22. 10:27 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Pascal)
23. 11:09 AM - Re: New product (Sohrab Kermanj)
24. 11:33 AM - Re: New product (Tim Olson)
25. 11:38 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (DLM)
26. 11:49 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Dave Saylor)
27. 11:51 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Dave Saylor)
28. 12:25 PM - Re: Leaking tanks (Rob Kochman)
29. 02:05 PM - Basic Fluting Question (Billy & Tami Britton)
30. 02:37 PM - Re: Basic Fluting Question (John Cumins)
31. 02:42 PM - Re: Basic Fluting Question (Tim Olson)
32. 03:58 PM - extra fuel tanks - Outboard fuel tank addition - Structual analysis results (Vijay Pisini)
33. 04:41 PM - When does the Finish Kit price increase? (Andrew Johnson)
34. 04:48 PM - Re: New product (Rob Kermanj)
35. 05:00 PM - Re: When does the Finish Kit price increase? (Sean Stephens)
36. 05:07 PM - N210KH wearing new duds (greghale)
37. 06:08 PM - Re: N210KH wearing new duds (Jesse Saint)
38. 06:40 PM - Re: Basic Fluting Question (Jerry Calvert)
39. 07:32 PM - ACK-04 ELT (Strasnuts)
40. 07:38 PM - Control stick connector (Strasnuts)
41. 07:40 PM - Re: N210KH wearing new duds (Marcus Cooper)
42. 07:46 PM - Re: N210KH wearing new duds (Robin Marks)
43. 08:12 PM - Re: Control stick connector (Rene)
44. 08:30 PM - Re: Leaking tanks (Bruce Johnson)
45. 08:38 PM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Dave Saylor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
They do, it's just hard to find. I ordered one last night.
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Aero-Classic-500%252d5-Leakguard-T
ube.html
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
Thanks guys. I'll probably just start out with replacing the nose wheel and
axle with a Matco WHLNW511.25 and Matco Axle and maybe getting the
leakguard tubes. Seems vansaircrafttires doesn't have a leakguard tube for
the 500-5 nose tire?
-Sean #40303
On 1/12/11 9:20 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires
> from this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the
> option to take retread or new better tires as well.
> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland
> set. Ask Matco when you call them.
>
> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> --> <sean@stephensville.com>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I
> am substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having
> some trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and
> tires. I believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with
> regards to wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it
> just the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets
> part above kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
Message 2
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Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google University' and the
site listed below takes you to a page that tries to infect your PC. I would
recommend not following the link and someone removing the post.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
To:<rv10-list@matronics.com>
Cc:
Subject: RV10-List: New product
I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have discovered that keep you leading
edges really clean. I would actually use the product over my entire plane
if I was proud of my paint job and did not have future plans to repaint.
I have used Ceramlock 850 (www.ceramlock.com) coating on the leading edges of my RV10. Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an impossible amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This product has saved the time and the pain of cleaning bugs from my leading edges after each flight. A simple swipe of even a dry rag cleans the bugs.
My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning chemicals after each
flight. Best of all, it only takes less than an hour to apply the product.
Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by another user and would
not recommend it unless I thought it was worthwhile.
Do not archive
Sent from my iPad
Message 3
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| Subject: | Mounting Main Wheel Question |
Tim hit the nail on the head.
Tim do you recall the part number of the pin that worked better for you?
Thanks!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
I think he's talking a different problem...the mains. I haven't had a big
issue with the mains. I got some big cotter pins that don't stick out a lot
of excess and when I bend the ears over it clears fine. Sure, it's close
sometimes, but it always clears. You want to buy 100 of the right size
cotter pins, because you throw them away every tire dismount. I think if I
remember right, my original ones were slightly longer and I snipped the
tips. The ones I use now are just about perfect. They are a pain to
install, cuz you have to arch them a little as you install them, and then
straighten them out to get them through the far hole. My worry has been
that if the ears rotate, they could scrape the seal cover ring but that's
not happened so far.
So unless you have a different clearance than me, Bob, I think it should be
workable. Thanks for the comment on the extensions....haven't heard of any
breaking and there are over 160 sets out there so we must be at least doing
better than stock. ;) Tim
On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:54 PM, "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the valve
cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo plane.
> I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me the
correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was untouched MAtco
was replacing the wheels for $20.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
>
>
>
> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
apparent
> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There
is
> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>
>
>
> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
> appreciative of what Tim did for the community and probably can't
> express my thanks often enough.
>
>
>
> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
> Another option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of
> the nut. I'm not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Phil,
look at this video:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O50zPa0PNR8>
the correct URL to the company however seems to be:
<http://www.powdercoatingfl.com/>
Cheers Werner
so it seems to exist
On 13.01.2011 11:51, Phil N wrote:
> Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google University'
> and the site listed below takes you to a page that tries to infect your
> PC. I would recommend not following the link and someone removing the post.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>
> *To:* <rv10-list@matronics.com> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Cc:*
> *Date:* Wednesday, January 12 2011 10:47 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: New product
>
> I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have discovered that
> keep you leading edges really clean. I would actually use the
> product over my entire plane if I was proud of my paint job and did
> not have future plans to repaint.
>
> I have used Ceramlock 850 (www.ceramlock.com
> <http://www.ceramlock.com>) coating on the leading edges of my RV10.
> Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an impossible
> amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This product has saved the
> time and the pain of cleaning bugs from my leading edges after each
> flight. A simple swipe of even a dry rag cleans the bugs.
>
> My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning
> chemicals after each flight. Best of all, it only takes less than an
> hour to apply the product.
>
> Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by another
> user and would not recommend it unless I thought it was worthwhile.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> *
>
> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ics.com
> .matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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I am sorry for the bad site. I never visited the site since I had the produc
t in hand and had seen its performance. I will forward your email to Doug, t
he inventor.
Do not archive
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 13, 2011, at 3:51 AM, Phil N <philn@toosan.com> wrote:
> Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google University' a
nd the site listed below takes you to a page that tries to infect your PC. I
would recommend not following the link and someone removing the post.
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Cc:
> Date: Wednesday, January 12 2011 10:47 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: New product
>
> I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have discovered that keep y
ou leading edges really clean. I would actually use the product over my enti
re plane if I was proud of my paint job and did not have future plans to rep
aint.
>
> I have used Ceramlock 850 (www.ceramlock.com) coating on the leading edges
of my RV10. Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an impossible
amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This product has saved the time a
nd the pain of cleaning bugs from my leading edges after each flight. A simp
le swipe of even a dry rag cleans the bugs.
>
> My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning chemicals af
ter each flight. Best of all, it only takes less than an hour to apply the p
roduct.
>
> Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by another user and
would not recommend it unless I thought it was worthwhile.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ics.com
> .matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Bruce, i did. After making major repairs without success, gave up and got a n
ew tank. Van supplied the tank for free since it was QB tank.
Major reapir: removing the tank, cutting a hole on the back side of the tank
and reaching inside. Vans supplied the repair kit.
If you need more detail, email me offline.
Do not archive.
Repairs from the outside do not work.
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 12, 2011, at 8:48 PM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote
:
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine see
m to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gum
my and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on t
hat particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on h
ow to remedy this?
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 7
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Bruce
I had a leak on the right quick build tank and was finally able to determine
it was seepage around the round head rivets on the flange which hold the
outlet fitting. I used scotchbrite and alumiprep to clean and roughen the
area. I then rinsed well and dried. I covered the area in proseal. It has
held leak free so far. I was able to do this with the tank and wing
installed.
Wayne
RV10 85 plus hrs
F1 Rocket 475 plus hrs
Message 8
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I have 3 rivets that were seeping fuel on the QB tanks. Unfortunately it
wasn't apparent until I had the airplane painted (aaggghhh!) Previous posts
here mentioned using the green Loctite which penetrates threads that are
already assembled. It took a lot of applications but appears to be working.
Not as good a fix as the major repair kit or sending the tanks back to Vans,
but cheap and a lot less work if you want to give it a try.
Marcus
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 10:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
to remedy this?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Try Desser Tire for tire and tube replacements. I have used them for 10+
years. They are a major player. They are also selling after market lens, etc
for RV10. Cleveland is the place for main wheels and matco is the supplier
for nose wheel (the correct one). Cleveland has a kit (199104) for the
wheels. Buy it from one of their dealers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires from
> this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the option to
> take retread or new better tires as well.
> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland set.
> Ask Matco when you call them.
>
> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
> kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
The 10 needs the Matco axle. Those stainless sleeves eventualy turn and
score the fork. You might as well get the full matco solution when you
change the axle. I saw a 10 in Phoenix which some A&P had returned to
service where the nose wheel wobbled 15 degrees each side of vertical.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
good point! It is a different issue
forget Matco solution, but =9CBasically Vans will tell you to
remove the valve cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with
the demo plane.=9D stays.
I did go out and looked and there is minimal clearance, but should not
be an issue, especially if the valve cover is removed.
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:21 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
I think you are talking about the nose wheel and Bob is talking about
the mains. Not sure it is the same issue.
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:54 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
wrote:
Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the
valve cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo
plane.
I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent
me the correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was
untouched MAtco was replacing the wheels for $20.
-----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
apparent
that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve.
There is
almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
appreciative
of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my
thanks often
enough.
Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I
could
crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
Another
option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the
nut. I'm
not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
Comments?
Thanks,
bob
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
cleveland kit 199104 for main wheels and brakes and revised matco for the
nose with the matco axle and spacers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> I just replaced the nose wheel and axel. Be sure to get the spacers for
> the
> axel too. I overlooked them initially.
>
> The Cleveland wheel set also includes your brakes, so you'll need to take
> that into consideration if you are planning on replacing those with Matco
> wheels too.
>
> I am having a problem with my nose wheel tube. It's only maintain air for
> about two days. I don't know if it's defective or if I may have pinched
> or
> punctured it myself. I guess I need to order a new tube. What do folks
> recommend?
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to wheels
> and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and the
> U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the
> nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above kept
> even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
I changed tubes to the 90 degree stems, much easier to fill and no
conflict with the nut or axle.
grumpy
On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:31 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
> apparent
> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve.
> There is
> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>
>
> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
> appreciative
> of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my
> thanks often
> enough.
>
>
> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I
> could
> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
> Another
> option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the
> nut. I'm
> not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> bob
>
>
Message 13
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The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by
pulling a small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I
don't remember if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the
drain flange and have not been successful with the vacuum method.
Bobby Hughes
N416AS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
seem to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is
turning gummy and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they
used rivets on that particular piece as there is no way to snug them a
little.Any ideas on how to remedy this?
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
[quote="dlm34077(at)q.com"]The 10 needs the Matco axle. Those stainless sleeves
eventualy turn and score the fork. You might as well get the full matco solution
when you change the axle. I saw a 10 in Phoenix which some A&P had returned
to service where the nose wheel wobbled 15 degrees each side of vertical.
> ---
Kind of difficult to change the main wheel axle to Matco. :P
The nose wheel on the other hand, the Matco axle works great.
Just giving you a hard time. I've been guilty of reading too fast and coming to
the wrong conclusion too.
I also noticed what happened to my two photos that were pasted in my email and
how the forum renamed them to something with an extension that most browsers won't
recognize. Tim was spot on, so I probably won't take the time to upload
them again.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326858#326858
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
I can't find reliable info in my old pile of stuff. I'll
have to try to find out when I am at the hangar and actually
doing the job again. I'm confused more now because I know
I've bought over 600 of the -362's...maybe when we did
the extensions?
MS24665-362 1/8" x 2-1/2
But when I read the plans, I see that Van's specs these:
MS24665-360 1/8" x 2
...which are actually shorter. So maybe they fixed the p/n
already? or maybe it was just me.
Either way, just install what you have and know the p/n, and
measure it, and then see if it needs shorter and if so,
order a few to try, and if they work better, order a pile.
Wish I had better for-sure info....so don't trust the above
too much.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 1/13/2011 4:57 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler"<rv@thelefflers.com>
>
> Tim hit the nail on the head.
>
> Tim do you recall the part number of the pin that worked better for you?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:40 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>
> I think he's talking a different problem...the mains. I haven't had a big
> issue with the mains. I got some big cotter pins that don't stick out a lot
> of excess and when I bend the ears over it clears fine. Sure, it's close
> sometimes, but it always clears. You want to buy 100 of the right size
> cotter pins, because you throw them away every tire dismount. I think if I
> remember right, my original ones were slightly longer and I snipped the
> tips. The ones I use now are just about perfect. They are a pain to
> install, cuz you have to arch them a little as you install them, and then
> straighten them out to get them through the far hole. My worry has been
> that if the ears rotate, they could scrape the seal cover ring but that's
> not happened so far.
> So unless you have a different clearance than me, Bob, I think it should be
> workable. Thanks for the comment on the extensions....haven't heard of any
> breaking and there are over 160 sets out there so we must be at least doing
> better than stock. ;) Tim
>
>
> On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:54 PM, "Pascal"<rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal"<rv10builder@verizon.net>
>>
>> Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the valve
> cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo plane.
>> I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me the
> correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was untouched MAtco
> was replacing the wheels for $20.
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
>>
>>
>>
>> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
> apparent
>> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There
> is
>> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>>
>>
>>
>> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
>> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
>> appreciative of what Tim did for the community and probably can't
>> express my thanks often enough.
>>
>>
>>
>> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
>> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
>> Another option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of
>> the nut. I'm not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>>
>>
>>
>> Comments?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Been so long I forgot what came with what..
I guess for others that haven't gotten the fusellage than the windscreen
applies.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
No, you are correct. I just asked about the finish kit and Pascal threw
in a promo for the other items as well. :)
On 1/13/11 12:22 AM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
> <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
>
> I am a little confused. I purchased a quick-build fuselage and it came
> with the windscreen. The wingtips came with the self-build wing kit. But
> I get the impression that these come with the finish kit from the text
> below. Am I missing something? I guess it is too late for me to consider
> these products from vanaircrafttires.
>
> In a more confused state than usual.
>
> Dave
>
Message 17
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Rob,
Can you describe the product a bit, and how it applies, and explain
about your comment "and did not have future plans to repaint" ?
I couldn't get to the website, but did find the youtube videos
and watched them. It sounds like perhaps it's very similar to
RejeX? RejeX apparently was made for the military to keep
exhaust residue off the plane....and on the youtube video they
talk at length about that.
I was turned on to RejeX by Vic Syracuse, and ended up loving it.
I can't say that I wipe bugs off with a dry rag, but they wipe off
with water easily now. Here's my write-up.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html#Keeping_the_Bugs_off
I'm just trying to find out if this is something completely
different, and what it looks like, or if it could be the same thing
but under a different name.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 1/13/2011 6:45 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
> I am sorry for the bad site. I never visited the site since I had the
> product in hand and had seen its performance. I will forward your email
> to Doug, the inventor.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 13, 2011, at 3:51 AM, Phil N <philn@toosan.com
> <mailto:philn@toosan.com>> wrote:
>
>> Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google
>> University' and the site listed below takes you to a page that tries
>> to infect your PC. I would recommend not following the link and
>> someone removing the post.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Rob Kermanj <
>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>flysrv10@gmail.com
>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>>
>> *To:* < <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
>> *Cc:*
>> *Date:* Wednesday, January 12 2011 10:47 PM
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: New product
>>
>> I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have discovered
>> that keep you leading edges really clean. I would actually use the
>> product over my entire plane if I was proud of my paint job and
>> did not have future plans to repaint.
>>
>> I have used Ceramlock 850
>> (<http://www.ceramlock.com>www.ceramlock.com
>> <http://www.ceramlock.com>) coating on the leading edges of my
>> RV10. Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an
>> impossible amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This product
>> has saved the time and the pain of cleaning bugs from my leading
>> edges after each flight. A simple swipe of even a dry rag cleans
>> the bugs.
>>
>> My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning
>> chemicals after each flight. Best of all, it only takes less than
>> an hour to apply the product.
>>
>> Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by another
>> user and would not recommend it unless I thought it was worthwhile.
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> *
>>
>> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ics.com <http://ics.com>
>> .matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> ==================================
>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==================================
>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==================================
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==================================
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Thanks Werner, that is perfect.
-Sean #40303
On 1/13/11 1:33 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Sean,
>
> for the nosewheel:
>
> remove from Finishing Kit:
> 1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
>
> order from Matco:
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
> http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
> http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
>
> that is:
> 1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
> 1x WHLA24SPKIT
> 1x WHLNW511.25
>
> That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
> maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
>
> Werner
>
> #41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
> #5794 flying (HB-YKP)
>
> On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>
>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>
>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>
>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
>> kept even with the replacements?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
=0Agummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like i
t was =0Anot mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and se
e where that =0Agets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
spot.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bobby J. Hugh
es <bhughes@qnsi.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, January 13
, 2011 7:30:25 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks=0A=0A=0A=C2-The
late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside with
=0Aproseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
small =0Avacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I don
=99t remember if it was =0Adeluted. I have a very small leak around the dra
in flange and have not been =0Asuccessful with the vacuum method. =0A=0A=C2
-=0ABobby Hughes=0AN416AS=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=0A________________________
________=0A=0AFrom:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv
10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson=0ASent: Wednesday,
January 12, 2011 9:48 PM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: RV10-Lis
t: Leaking tanks=0A=C2-=0AHas anybody else had problems with the quick bu
ild tanks leaking. Mine seem to =0Abe leaking around the outlet port. The s
ealant they used is turning gummy and it =0Ais more of a seep than a leak.I
cant believe they used rivets on that particular =0Apiece as there is no w
ay to snug them a little.Any ideas on how to remedy this? =0A=0A=C2-=0A
=C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://fo
========== =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
too.
I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same spot.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont remember
> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and have
> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>
>
> Bobby Hughes
>
> N416AS
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
> to remedy this?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>
>
Message 21
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|
David,
Did you use 3/32" or 1/8" closed-end rivets? I have been unable to locate any less
than 1/8". If you have a source for 3/32 I would appreciate the information.
Thanks
Bobby Hughes
N416AS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
too.
I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same spot.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I don't remember
> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and have
> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>
>
> Bobby Hughes
>
> N416AS
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
> to remedy this?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
How did you drill out the rivets without anything falling into the tanks? I
would think a vacuum would pick up the small pieces but usually I punch out
the drilled rivet and need access from the inside.
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
too.
I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
> spot.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling
> a
> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont
> remember
> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and
> have
> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>
>
> Bobby Hughes
>
> N416AS
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
> seem
> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
> gummy
> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on
> that
> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
> to remedy this?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>
>
Message 23
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Tim, the best I can describe it is that it looks like clear coat but it is a hard
surface and does not have to be sprayed.
As to the "repaint"; I meant that if I had a great paint job without chips and
orange peel, i.e., a fresh, good paint job, I would have done the whole plane
as it makes the surfaces very easy to clean.
The product is applied over lightly sanded surface by baby diaper rags. It is extremely
thin and having applied it to the leading edge only, one cannot see the
edge of the application unless I point it out and only, by looking at the area
at a steep angle.
The product you use sounds very similar and I honestly cannot tell if they are
the same product branded differently.
Randy in the video is my neighbor in Florida and he is a straight shooter. I waited
for him to try the product for a while before I applied it to my plane. I
have had mine on the paint about 6 months. Randy uses it on everything!
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:21 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> Rob,
>
> Can you describe the product a bit, and how it applies, and explain
> about your comment "and did not have future plans to repaint" ?
>
> I couldn't get to the website, but did find the youtube videos
> and watched them. It sounds like perhaps it's very similar to
> RejeX? RejeX apparently was made for the military to keep
> exhaust residue off the plane....and on the youtube video they
> talk at length about that.
>
> I was turned on to RejeX by Vic Syracuse, and ended up loving it.
> I can't say that I wipe bugs off with a dry rag, but they wipe off
> with water easily now. Here's my write-up.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html#Keeping_the_Bugs_off
>
> I'm just trying to find out if this is something completely
> different, and what it looks like, or if it could be the same thing
> but under a different name.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
> On 1/13/2011 6:45 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> I am sorry for the bad site. I never visited the site since I had the
>> product in hand and had seen its performance. I will forward your email
>> to Doug, the inventor.
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jan 13, 2011, at 3:51 AM, Phil N <philn@toosan.com
>> <mailto:philn@toosan.com>> wrote:
>>
>>> Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google
>>> University' and the site listed below takes you to a page that tries
>>> to infect your PC. I would recommend not following the link and
>>> someone removing the post.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> *From:* Rob Kermanj <
>>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>flysrv10@gmail.com
>>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>>
>>> *To:* < <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
>>> *Cc:*
>>> *Date:* Wednesday, January 12 2011 10:47 PM
>>> *Subject:* RV10-List: New product
>>>
>>> I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have discovered
>>> that keep you leading edges really clean. I would actually use the
>>> product over my entire plane if I was proud of my paint job and
>>> did not have future plans to repaint.
>>>
>>> I have used Ceramlock 850
>>> (<http://www.ceramlock.com>www.ceramlock.com
>>> <http://www.ceramlock.com>) coating on the leading edges of my
>>> RV10. Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an
>>> impossible amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This product
>>> has saved the time and the pain of cleaning bugs from my leading
>>> edges after each flight. A simple swipe of even a dry rag cleans
>>> the bugs.
>>>
>>> My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning
>>> chemicals after each flight. Best of all, it only takes less than
>>> an hour to apply the product.
>>>
>>> Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by another
>>> user and would not recommend it unless I thought it was worthwhile.
>>>
>>> Do not archive
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ics.com <http://ics.com>
>>> .matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> ==================================
>>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==================================
>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==================================
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==================================
>>>
>>> *
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
I don't think that this is the same stuff then...the RejeX is a
white cream, like using car wax basically. It sounds like
if you still can even detect a line where you stopped applying
it, that the stuff you're talking about actually is a clear
coating that hardens...not something that could be removed.
Otherwise, you wouldn't see the line probably. So it's got
to be different.
How much was the stuff to do the leading edges, if you bought
it. (I know, you didn't have to, but do you know how much
it would be for someone to do the leading edges?) And how
much for enough to do a whole plane? Would love to hear
more reviews as you find people who tried it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 1/13/2011 1:04 PM, Sohrab Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sohrab Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>
> Tim, the best I can describe it is that it looks like clear coat but
> it is a hard surface and does not have to be sprayed.
>
> As to the "repaint"; I meant that if I had a great paint job without
> chips and orange peel, i.e., a fresh, good paint job, I would have
> done the whole plane as it makes the surfaces very easy to clean.
>
> The product is applied over lightly sanded surface by baby diaper
> rags. It is extremely thin and having applied it to the leading edge
> only, one cannot see the edge of the application unless I point it
> out and only, by looking at the area at a steep angle.
>
> The product you use sounds very similar and I honestly cannot tell if
> they are the same product branded differently.
>
> Randy in the video is my neighbor in Florida and he is a straight
> shooter. I waited for him to try the product for a while before I
> applied it to my plane. I have had mine on the paint about 6 months.
> Randy uses it on everything!
>
>
> Rob Kermanj Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:21 AM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>
>> Rob,
>>
>> Can you describe the product a bit, and how it applies, and
>> explain about your comment "and did not have future plans to
>> repaint" ?
>>
>> I couldn't get to the website, but did find the youtube videos and
>> watched them. It sounds like perhaps it's very similar to RejeX?
>> RejeX apparently was made for the military to keep exhaust residue
>> off the plane....and on the youtube video they talk at length about
>> that.
>>
>> I was turned on to RejeX by Vic Syracuse, and ended up loving it. I
>> can't say that I wipe bugs off with a dry rag, but they wipe off
>> with water easily now. Here's my write-up.
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html#Keeping_the_Bugs_off
>>
>> I'm just trying to find out if this is something completely
>> different, and what it looks like, or if it could be the same
>> thing but under a different name.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>> On 1/13/2011 6:45 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>> I am sorry for the bad site. I never visited the site since I had
>>> the product in hand and had seen its performance. I will forward
>>> your email to Doug, the inventor.
>>>
>>> Do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Jan 13, 2011, at 3:51 AM, Phil N<philn@toosan.com
>>> <mailto:philn@toosan.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google
>>>> University' and the site listed below takes you to a page that
>>>> tries to infect your PC. I would recommend not following the
>>>> link and someone removing the post.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- *From:* Rob Kermanj<
>>>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>flysrv10@gmail.com
>>>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>> *To:*<
>>>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>> *Cc:* *Date:* Wednesday,
>>>> January 12 2011 10:47 PM *Subject:* RV10-List: New product
>>>>
>>>> I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have
>>>> discovered that keep you leading edges really clean. I would
>>>> actually use the product over my entire plane if I was proud of
>>>> my paint job and did not have future plans to repaint.
>>>>
>>>> I have used Ceramlock 850
>>>> (<http://www.ceramlock.com>www.ceramlock.com
>>>> <http://www.ceramlock.com>) coating on the leading edges of my
>>>> RV10. Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an
>>>> impossible amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This
>>>> product has saved the time and the pain of cleaning bugs from
>>>> my leading edges after each flight. A simple swipe of even a
>>>> dry rag cleans the bugs.
>>>>
>>>> My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning
>>>> chemicals after each flight. Best of all, it only takes less
>>>> than an hour to apply the product.
>>>>
>>>> Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by
>>>> another user and would not recommend it unless I thought it was
>>>> worthwhile.
>>>>
>>>> Do not archive
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ics.com<http://ics.com> .matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> ==================================
>>>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>
>>>>
==================================
>>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==================================
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>>
==================================
>>>>
>>>> *
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Try access by removing the fuel float sensor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> How did you drill out the rivets without anything falling into the tanks?
> I would think a vacuum would pick up the small pieces but usually I punch
> out the drilled rivet and need access from the inside.
> Thanks!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
> leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
> haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
> too.
>
> I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
> rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
> proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
> The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
> live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
> fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
> <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is
>> the
>> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
>> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
>> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
>> spot.
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
>> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by
>> pulling a
>> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont
>> remember
>> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and
>> have
>> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>>
>> N416AS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
>> seem
>> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
>> gummy
>> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on
>> that
>> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on
>> how
>> to remedy this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
I used 1/8" rivets from McMaster: 97524A050
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:20 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> Did you use 3/32" or 1/8" closed-end rivets? I have been unable to locate any
less than 1/8". If you have a source for 3/32 I would appreciate the information.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bobby Hughes
> N416AS
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
> leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
> haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
> too.
>
> I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
> rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
> proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
> The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
> live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
> fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
> <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
>> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
>> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
>> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same spot.
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
>> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
>> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I don't remember
>> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and have
>> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>>
>> N416AS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
>> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
>> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
>> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
>> to remedy this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Grease on the drill bit helps alot to capture chips. Other than that,
you just have to be pretty vigilant about getting all the pieces out.
We have a boroscope that fits into the screen outlet. A small piece
of sticky tape on the end of the scope grabs the rivet. Tap on the
bottom of the tank and they sort of migrate towards the screen by
gravity. By finding one tail at a time you can keep track. I only
changed a few, a whole bunch would be too tedious this way.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:24 AM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> How did you drill out the rivets without anything falling into the tanks? I
> would think a vacuum would pick up the small pieces but usually I punch out
> the drilled rivet and need access from the inside.
> Thanks!
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
> leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
> haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
> too.
>
> I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
> rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
> proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
> The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
> live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
> fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
> <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
>> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
>> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
>> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
>> spot.
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
>> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling
>> a
>> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont
>> remember
>> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and
>> have
>> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>>
>> N416AS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
>> seem
>> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
>> gummy
>> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on
>> that
>> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
>> to remedy this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
One of my QB tanks leaked in exactly the same place (seemed to be leaking
between the riveted fitting and the rib). There's no visible proseal in
that area, though the proseal on the areas of the tank I can see looks fine
(not gummy as you describe). I put the finger strainer in and put new seal
around it. Now no air leak in testing, but I haven't filled with fuel yet.
-Rob
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:48 PM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com>wrote:
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
> seem to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
> gummy and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets
> on that particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas
> on how to remedy this?
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Basic Fluting Question |
Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my
ribs have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I
assume). I cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting
them--no matter what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while
on a table they lie flat but the instant I let go they spring right back
so they are twisted. Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get
the rivet holes lined up good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've
had a few in the past like this that I just installed and the clecoes
very easily pull the rib into place. Is this acceptable? If not, how
do I correct. I've attached a few pictures to better describe my issue.
Thanks in advance,
Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Basic Fluting Question |
Bill
We are in about the same spot in construction. What I did was use a
straight edge down the ribs and fluted to make the rib straight and not
curved like they are coming from Vans. The twist issue I do not think you
can fix, but the curve can be fluted away.
Good luck.
John
40864 Wings Wanting good weather so I can primer more parts.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 1:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Basic Fluting Question
Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my ribs
have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I assume). I
cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting them--no matter
what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while on a table they lie
flat but the instant I let go they spring right back so they are twisted.
Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get the rivet holes lined up
good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've had a few in the past like
this that I just installed and the clecoes very easily pull the rib into
place. Is this acceptable? If not, how do I correct. I've attached a few
pictures to better describe my issue.
Thanks in advance,
Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Basic Fluting Question |
If they stand up that much, I'd flute them and make them flatter.
I'm sure it could be fine if you installed them, but really,
the idea is to get that stress out of them and make them flat.
There is a technique to it, and it's easier to do or show
than speak, but once you get the hang of it, you'll have it
down. It's been a LOOONG time, but I think that the one you
have the picture of in this email probably is over-fluted,
and that's why it's bowed up. If you flute less, the length
of the bottom edge would be longer, and it would tend to
make it flatter. Picture it as a bar that you want to bend,
and if you flute one side, it bends that way. Well, you
fluted the side facing down, and when you got to a certain
point, the thing bent in a curve facing that direction.
So I'd relax the flutes and see what happens.
You'll get the hang of it.
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 1/13/2011 3:05 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my
> ribs have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I
> assume). I cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting
> them--no matter what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while
> on a table they lie flat but the instant I let go they spring right back
> so they are twisted. Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get
> the rivet holes lined up good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've
> had a few in the past like this that I just installed and the clecoes
> very easily pull the rib into place. Is this acceptable? If not, how do
> I correct. I've attached a few pictures to better describe my issue.
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
Message 32
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| Subject: | extra fuel tanks - Outboard fuel tank addition - Structual |
analysis results
DLM,=0A=0AThanks for the info.=0A=0AAll in the list, =0A=0AI'm attaching th
e Word document where the results are included.- For most part =0Athey ar
e in-line with-our expectation.- However, some questions still need to
be =0Aanswered.- I know that I got a lot of criticism for my initial thre
ad content, =0Abut we all got to learn a lot of points.- These results ar
e for you all to see =0Aand comment (positive, negative, devil's advocate t
ype etc).- This email group =0Ais great even though I get rough replies..
.but those replies are all interesting =0Aand something to learn from as th
ey are from different perspectives and =0Aappreciate those perspectives...g
ood points to gather before I take my own =0Adecision.- Thanks.=0A=0A=0Av
j=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: DLM <dlm34077@q.co
m>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, January 10, 2011 6:33:00 PM
=0ASubject: RV10-List: extra fuel tanks=0A=0A=0AI spoke with Jim Younkin to
day about their extra fuel tanks on the 10. He stated =0Athat the proper co
ntact is John Nys of Tulsa. They have an extra tank outboard =0Aof the main
s and a ball check valve installed in the area between the tanks. =0AFlow b
etween tanks is-gravity and the valve can be opened/closed externally.
=0ATherefore no wiring or transfer pumps are included. The outboard tanks h
ave =0Avented fuel caps but no other-vent. Long range flight means closin
g the valves , =0Afilling all tanks and then opening the valves before take
off. Standard use of =0Athe fuel selector should-provide for balancing th
e fuel load.--
Message 33
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| Subject: | When does the Finish Kit price increase? |
I must admit I thought they'd have done it right after the New Year.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean@stephensville.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> Thanks Werner, that is perfect.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> On 1/13/11 1:33 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> Sean,
>>
>> for the nosewheel:
>>
>> remove from Finishing Kit:
>> 1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>> 1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
>>
>> order from Matco:
>>
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
>>
>> that is:
>> 1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
>> 1x WHLA24SPKIT
>> 1x WHLNW511.25
>>
>> That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
>> maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> #41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
>> #5794 flying (HB-YKP)
>>
>> On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>
>>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
>>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>>
>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>>
>>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>>
>>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
>>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
>>> kept even with the replacements?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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|
It does not seem to be the same product as you have.
Doug came over to my hangar and applied the product. It was VERY little. Maybe
3-4 oz.
I never asked the price. I cc'd him in previous emails. You might ask him directly.
He knows my rv10 and can tell you exactly how much you need and what the
cost will be.
Do not archive.
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 13, 2011, at 12:28 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I don't think that this is the same stuff then...the RejeX is a
> white cream, like using car wax basically. It sounds like
> if you still can even detect a line where you stopped applying
> it, that the stuff you're talking about actually is a clear
> coating that hardens...not something that could be removed.
> Otherwise, you wouldn't see the line probably. So it's got
> to be different.
>
> How much was the stuff to do the leading edges, if you bought
> it. (I know, you didn't have to, but do you know how much
> it would be for someone to do the leading edges?) And how
> much for enough to do a whole plane? Would love to hear
> more reviews as you find people who tried it.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 1/13/2011 1:04 PM, Sohrab Kermanj wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sohrab Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>
>> Tim, the best I can describe it is that it looks like clear coat but
>> it is a hard surface and does not have to be sprayed.
>>
>> As to the "repaint"; I meant that if I had a great paint job without
>> chips and orange peel, i.e., a fresh, good paint job, I would have
>> done the whole plane as it makes the surfaces very easy to clean.
>>
>> The product is applied over lightly sanded surface by baby diaper
>> rags. It is extremely thin and having applied it to the leading edge
>> only, one cannot see the edge of the application unless I point it
>> out and only, by looking at the area at a steep angle.
>>
>> The product you use sounds very similar and I honestly cannot tell if
>> they are the same product branded differently.
>>
>> Randy in the video is my neighbor in Florida and he is a straight
>> shooter. I waited for him to try the product for a while before I
>> applied it to my plane. I have had mine on the paint about 6 months.
>> Randy uses it on everything!
>>
>>
>> Rob Kermanj Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:21 AM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Rob,
>>>
>>> Can you describe the product a bit, and how it applies, and
>>> explain about your comment "and did not have future plans to
>>> repaint" ?
>>>
>>> I couldn't get to the website, but did find the youtube videos and
>>> watched them. It sounds like perhaps it's very similar to RejeX?
>>> RejeX apparently was made for the military to keep exhaust residue
>>> off the plane....and on the youtube video they talk at length about
>>> that.
>>>
>>> I was turned on to RejeX by Vic Syracuse, and ended up loving it. I
>>> can't say that I wipe bugs off with a dry rag, but they wipe off
>>> with water easily now. Here's my write-up.
>>>
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html#Keeping_the_Bugs_off
>>>
>>> I'm just trying to find out if this is something completely
>>> different, and what it looks like, or if it could be the same
>>> thing but under a different name.
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 1/13/2011 6:45 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>>> I am sorry for the bad site. I never visited the site since I had
>>>> the product in hand and had seen its performance. I will forward
>>>> your email to Doug, the inventor.
>>>>
>>>> Do not archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Jan 13, 2011, at 3:51 AM, Phil N<philn@toosan.com
>>>> <mailto:philn@toosan.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Interesting. This product doesn't exist according to 'Google
>>>>> University' and the site listed below takes you to a page that
>>>>> tries to infect your PC. I would recommend not following the
>>>>> link and someone removing the post.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- *From:* Rob Kermanj<
>>>>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>flysrv10@gmail.com
>>>>> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>> *To:*<
>>>>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>> *Cc:* *Date:* Wednesday,
>>>>> January 12 2011 10:47 PM *Subject:* RV10-List: New product
>>>>>
>>>>> I wanted to let everyone know about a product I have
>>>>> discovered that keep you leading edges really clean. I would
>>>>> actually use the product over my entire plane if I was proud of
>>>>> my paint job and did not have future plans to repaint.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have used Ceramlock 850
>>>>> (<http://www.ceramlock.com>www.ceramlock.com
>>>>> <http://www.ceramlock.com>) coating on the leading edges of my
>>>>> RV10. Flying in florida during the summer season leaves an
>>>>> impossible amount of bug juice on the leading edges. This
>>>>> product has saved the time and the pain of cleaning bugs from
>>>>> my leading edges after each flight. A simple swipe of even a
>>>>> dry rag cleans the bugs.
>>>>>
>>>>> My plane always looks clean and I do not have to use cleaning
>>>>> chemicals after each flight. Best of all, it only takes less
>>>>> than an hour to apply the product.
>>>>>
>>>>> Disclosure: I was offered to test the product for free by
>>>>> another user and would not recommend it unless I thought it was
>>>>> worthwhile.
>>>>>
>>>>> Do not archive
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>
>>>>> *
>>>>>
>>>>> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>> ics.com<http://ics.com> .matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>
>>>>> *
>>>>>
>>>>> *
>>>>>
>>>>> ==================================
>>>>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>
>>>>>
> ==================================
>>>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> ==================================
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>
>>>>>
> ==================================
>>>>>
>>>>> *
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: When does the Finish Kit price increase? |
Feb. 1st. It's on the bottom of their homepage.
On 1/13/11 6:37 PM, Andrew Johnson wrote:
> <noconwud@earthlink.net>
>
> I must admit I thought they'd have done it right after the New Year.
>
> Andy
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens"
> <sean@stephensville.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
>>
>> Thanks Werner, that is perfect.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> On 1/13/11 1:33 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> Sean,
>>>
>>> for the nosewheel:
>>>
>>> remove from Finishing Kit:
>>> 1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>>> 1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
>>>
>>> order from Matco:
>>>
>>> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>>> http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
>>> http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
>>>
>>> that is:
>>> 1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
>>> 1x WHLA24SPKIT
>>> 1x WHLNW511.25
>>>
>>> That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
>>> maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> #41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
>>> #5794 flying (HB-YKP)
>>>
>>> On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>> <sean@stephensville.com>
>>>>
>>>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase.
>>>> I am
>>>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>>>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>>>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>>>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>>>
>>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>>>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>>>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>>>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>>>
>>>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>>>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>>>
>>>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it
>>>> just
>>>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part
>>>> above
>>>> kept even with the replacements?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> -Sean #40303
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | N210KH wearing new duds |
I finally got to pick up my RV10 from Flying Colors of Texas paint shop in Texas
today. White pearl, maroon and silver metallic stripes with clear coat topping.
Mark Zello and his bunch did a really nice job of finishing my airplane.
Now back to flying and having fun.
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326962#326962
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2053_203.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2052_442.jpg
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: N210KH wearing new duds |
Looks great! Those lines going from the fuse to the VS through the intersection
fairing are hard to get looking right. Yours look great.
Congrats!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:04 PM, "greghale" <ghale5224@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I finally got to pick up my RV10 from Flying Colors of Texas paint shop in Texas
today. White pearl, maroon and silver metallic stripes with clear coat topping.
Mark Zello and his bunch did a really nice job of finishing my airplane.
Now back to flying and having fun.
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326962#326962
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2053_203.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2052_442.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Basic Fluting Question |
With some work, they will lay fairly flat. I prefer pliers like in the
attached file that makes a thinner flute. Pliers with wide flutes didn't
work well for me. Lay the rib on a flat surface with the rib flanges
pointing up. I pick the side of the rib that doesn't want to lie down and I
very lightly flute that section starting in the middle working back and
forth to each end of rib. Press down slightly on the web as you do this. It
should start laying down. I also work the ribs by hand by bending and
twisting a little. Once the rib lays as flat as you feel it's going to, the
flanges are checked to make sure they are close to 90 degrees to the web so
the skin fits flush to the flange.
Just watch how the rib reacts to fluting and flute lightly. Some flutes
will need additional fluting. Some flutes may be fluted too much and seamer
pliers (see attached file) can be used to squeeze out some of the fluting.
Once you get the hang of it, it gets easier.
Jerry Calvert
RV6
N296JC
On 1/13/2011 3:05 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my
> ribs have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I
> assume). I cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting
> them--no matter what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while
> on a table they lie flat but the instant I let go they spring right back
> so they are twisted. Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get
> the rivet holes lined up good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've
> had a few in the past like this that I just installed and the clecoes
> very easily pull the rib into place. Is this acceptable? If not, how do
> I correct. I've attached a few pictures to better describe my issue.
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
Message 39
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|
I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install
before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly order
a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input, recommendations
or experience with the new 406 ELTs?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972
Message 40
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| Subject: | Control stick connector |
What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I saw
some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the landing gear
bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't order the longer
cables.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973
Message 41
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| Subject: | N210KH wearing new duds |
Greg,
It looks fantastic! Well done and congrats on a beautiful airplane. It's
amazing how much better they fly when they look that good ;)
Enjoy,
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of greghale
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 8:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N210KH wearing new duds
I finally got to pick up my RV10 from Flying Colors of Texas paint shop in
Texas today. White pearl, maroon and silver metallic stripes with clear
coat topping. Mark Zello and his bunch did a really nice job of finishing
my airplane. Now back to flying and having fun.
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326962#326962
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2053_203.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2052_442.jpg
Message 42
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| Subject: | N210KH wearing new duds |
They sure do! First thing I noticed on the photos.
Well done Greg.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N210KH wearing new duds
Looks great! Those lines going from the fuse to the VS through the
intersection fairing are hard to get looking right. Yours look great.
Congrats!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:04 PM, "greghale" <ghale5224@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I finally got to pick up my RV10 from Flying Colors of Texas paint shop
in Texas today. White pearl, maroon and silver metallic stripes with
clear coat topping. Mark Zello and his bunch did a really nice job of
finishing my airplane. Now back to flying and having fun.
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326962#326962
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2053_203.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2052_442.jpg
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Control stick connector |
I used the 25 D-sub...
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Control stick connector
What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I
saw some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the
landing gear bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't
order the longer cables.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
OK I cleaned all the gummy sealant out of the way and did an air test and f
ound =0Ait was leaking between the rivets. I thought maybe it was the fitti
ng but after =0Achanging them out my conclusion is between the rivets. I pu
t the fittings back =0Ain place and put a vacuum on the tank and tried some
green loc tite. I am =0Aletting it dry over night and then will air test a
gain tomorrow. I might even =0Atry some epoxy around the edges of the fitti
ng before air tests. By the way the =0Atanks can take quite a bit of pressu
re, my plan was around 3 lbs but the valve =0Agot kicked and it went up to
20lbs, really made the leaks standout though. The =0Atank came out with no
visible problems. After-I get the left one -one stopped on =0Ato the ri
ght. Seems there-was a problem on the day my tanks were assembled in =0At
he Philippines.----=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASe
nt: Thu, January 13, 2011 1:21:22 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tank
s=0A=0A=0AOne of my QB tanks leaked in exactly the same place (seemed to be
leaking =0Abetween the riveted fitting and the rib).- There's no visible
proseal in that =0Aarea, though the proseal on the areas of the tank I can
see looks fine (not =0Agummy as you describe).- I put the finger straine
r in and put new seal around =0Ait.- Now no air leak in testing, but I ha
ven't filled with fuel yet.=0A=0A-Rob=0A=0A=0AOn Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:48
PM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> =0Awrote:=0A=0AHas anybody el
se had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem to =0Abe leak
ing around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy and it
=0Ais more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that pa
rticular =0Apiece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
to remedy this? =0A=0A>=0A> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List =0A>ttp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matron
ics.com/contribution =0A>=0A=0A=0A-- =0ARob Kochman=0ARV-10 "Finishing"
================= =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 45
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You would have swapped out the ACK at some point anyway. Not a good
product, certainly not one I would trust to save me, if the old 121.5
unit was any indicator. We've been installing Ameri-Kings and they
seem OK. Kannad seems like better quality but more $$.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>
> I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install
before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly order
a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input, recommendations
or experience with the new 406 ELTs?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972
>
>
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