RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 01/14/11


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:47 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (n801bh@netzero.com)
     2. 02:55 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Werner Schneider)
     3. 06:06 AM - Re: Control stick connector (Jesse Saint)
     4. 06:06 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Jesse Saint)
     5. 06:37 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (johngoodman)
     6. 06:41 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Bruce Johnson)
     7. 06:41 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Kelly McMullen)
     8. 06:46 AM - Re: Control stick connector (johngoodman)
     9. 06:46 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Strasnuts)
    10. 07:02 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Dave Saylor)
    11. 07:11 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Strasnuts)
    12. 07:35 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Tim Olson)
    13. 08:43 AM - Re: Control stick connector (Rob Kochman)
    14. 08:48 AM - Re: Basic Fluting Question (Bill Watson)
    15. 10:54 AM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (Jim Berry)
    16. 01:11 PM -  (tony Dubeansky)
    17. 05:45 PM - Re: ACK-04 ELT (AirMike)
    18. 07:26 PM - Re: Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions (Les Kearney)
    19. 08:52 PM - Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions (rv10flyer)
    20. 09:03 PM - Re: Basic Fluting Question (rv10flyer)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:47:03 AM PST US
    From: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
    Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
    Hard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You m ust be one lucky guy. IMHO. do not archive Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks OK I cleaned all the gummy sealant out of the way and did an air test an d found it was leaking between the rivets. I thought maybe it was the fi tting but after changing them out my conclusion is between the rivets. I put the fittings back in place and put a vacuum on the tank and tried s ome green loc tite. I am letting it dry over night and then will air tes t again tomorrow. I might even try some epoxy around the edges of the fi tting before air tests. By the way the tanks can take quite a bit of pre ssure, my plan was around 3 lbs but the valve got kicked and it went up to 20lbs, really made the leaks standout though. The tank came out with no visible problems. After I get the left one one stopped on to the rig ht. Seems there was a problem on the day my tanks were assembled in the Philippines. From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 1:21:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks One of my QB tanks leaked in exactly the same place (seemed to be leakin g between the riveted fitting and the rib). There's no visible proseal in that area, though the proseal on the areas of the tank I can see look s fine (not gummy as you describe). I put the finger strainer in and pu t new seal around it. Now no air leak in testing, but I haven't filled with fuel yet. -Rob On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:48 PM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.co m> wrote: Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine s eem to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turni ng gummy and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used r ivets on that particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little. Any ideas on how to remedy this? get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ttp://f orums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lnics.com/contribution" rel=no follow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.========== ======== ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ======= ____________________________________________________________ Go Back to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those Who Qualify http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4d301a23eacf4bd9370st04vuc


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:55:22 AM PST US
    From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    Dave, could you be more specific, what was bad on that product please. The design of the 406 does look pretty well done from what I did see but if you have more details I would be more then glad to have them for a decision. Many thanks #41122 Empenage (HB-YPK reserved) #5794 HB-YKP flying On 14.01.2011 05:25, Dave Saylor wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> > > You would have swapped out the ACK at some point anyway. Not a good > product, certainly not one I would trust to save me, if the old 121.5 > unit was any indicator. We've been installing Ameri-Kings and they > seem OK. Kannad seems like better quality but more $$. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Strasnuts<sean@braunandco.com> wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"<sean@braunandco.com> >> >> I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly order a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input, recommendations or experience with the new 406 ELTs? >> >> -------- >> Cust. #40936 >> RV-10 SB Fuselage >> N801VR reserved >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:06:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control stick connector
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    I used 16-pin CPC connectors under the seats and then wired the sticks together under the seats as necessary and then wired them up to the panel through the side panels. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Jan 13, 2011, at 10:32 PM, Strasnuts wrote: > > What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I saw some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the landing gear bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't order the longer cables. > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:06:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    If you are waiting for a new unit to come on the market and it's a cost concern, can't you still just put in a 121.5 ELT and then swap it out with the new unit when it comes out? I know some of the AmeriKing ELT's fit in the same mount as eachother, so the 121.5 mount will hold the 406 ELT. The only difference in the one that I used was that the "phone" cord from the ELT to the control unit on the panel was 6 wires on the 406 and only 4 on the 121.5. do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Jan 13, 2011, at 10:27 PM, Strasnuts wrote: > > I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly order a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input, recommendations or experience with the new 406 ELTs? > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:37:19 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    I've been waiting for mine for a year - already paid for. I'm being told it should be out by March.... -------- #40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327004#327004


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:41:01 AM PST US
    From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
    Thats what they tell me. =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.c om=0ASent: Fri, January 14, 2011 2:39:50 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Leaki ng tanks=0A=0A=0AHard to believe 20 lbs didn't distort/deform/ destroy the tank.... You must be =0Aone lucky guy.=0AIMHO.=0Ado not archive=0A=0A=0ABen Haas=0AN801BH=0Awww.haaspowerair.com=0A=0A---------- Original Message ---- ------=0AFrom: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@ma tronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks=0ADate: Thu, 13 Jan 201 1 20:25:29 -0800 (PST)=0A=0A=0AOK I cleaned all the gummy sealant out of th e way and did an air test and found =0Ait was leaking between the rivets. I thought maybe it was the fitting but after =0Achanging them out my conclus ion is between the rivets. I put the fittings back =0Ain place and put a va cuum on the tank and tried some green loc tite. I am =0Aletting it dry over night and then will air test again tomorrow. I might even =0Atry some epox y around the edges of the fitting before air tests. By the way the =0Atanks can take quite a bit of pressure, my plan was around 3 lbs but the valve =0Agot kicked and it went up to 20lbs, really made the leaks standout thoug h. The =0Atank came out with no visible problems. After-I get the left on e -one stopped on =0Ato the right. Seems there-was a problem on the day my tanks were assembled in =0Athe Philippines.----=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_ _______________________________=0AFrom: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>=0AT o: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, January 13, 2011 1:21:22 PM=0ASubje ct: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks=0A=0A=0AOne of my QB tanks leaked in exact ly the same place (seemed to be leaking =0Abetween the riveted fitting and the rib).- There's no visible proseal in that =0Aarea, though the proseal on the areas of the tank I can see looks fine (not =0Agummy as you describ e).- I put the finger strainer in and put new seal around =0Ait.- Now n o air leak in testing, but I haven't filled with fuel yet.=0A=0A-Rob=0A=0A =0AOn Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:48 PM, Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.co m> =0Awrote:=0A=0AHas anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem to =0Abe leaking around the outlet port. The sealant the y used is turning gummy and it =0Ais more of a seep than a leak.I cant beli eve they used rivets on that particular =0Apiece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how to remedy this? =0A=0A>=0A> get="_blan k">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =0A>ttp://forums.matronics .com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A>=0A=0A=0A-- =0AR ob Kochman=0ARV-10 "Finishing" Kit=0AWoodinville, WA (near Seattle)=0Ahttp: //kochman.net/N819K=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lnics.com/ contribution" rel=nofollow =0Atarget=_blank>http://www.matronics.== ================ =0A=0A=0A === ======== =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =0A======================== ============ tronics.com =0A======= ==== www.matronics.com/contribution =0A========= == =0A=0A=0A__________________________________________________________ __=0AGo Back to School=0AGrant Funding May Be Available to Those Who Qualif ============== =0ASeeCollegeDegrees.com=0A=0A =0A


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:41:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    Yes. The ACK E01 is no longer produced, however one might find some still in stock. The E04 unit awaiting approval supposedly will work with 2, 4 or 6 wire connections to the panel. I'm not convinced that any of the units on the market are much better than each other. They all have to meet the TSO, most have Canadian and European approvals, as well as passing COPAS/SARSATk testing. The G switch is likely the weak point in all of them. Whether the ACK is any good or not, it should put significant price pressure on the other companies to come down close to its $600 price threshold. It would be nice if selection could be made more on quality and features and less on huge price differences. Seems like it would be rather simple to put together a $700 unit with built in GPS, since most of the PLB units have that feature. I don't like the idea of needing external connections and relying on separate GPS to be turned on, etc. On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>wrote: > > If you are waiting for a new unit to come on the market and it's a cost > concern, can't you still just put in a 121.5 ELT and then swap it out with > the new unit when it comes out? I know some of the AmeriKing ELT's fit in > the same mount as eachother, so the 121.5 mount will hold the 406 ELT. The > only difference in the one that I used was that the "phone" cord from the > ELT to the control unit on the panel was 6 wires on the 406 and only 4 on > the 121.5. > > do not archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > On Jan 13, 2011, at 10:27 PM, Strasnuts wrote: > > > > > I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can > install before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now > reluctantly order a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there > have any input, recommendations or experience with the new 406 ELTs? > > > > -------- > > Cust. #40936 > > RV-10 SB Fuselage > > N801VR reserved > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:46:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control stick connector
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@EARTHLINK.NET>
    I used Aerotronics for my panel and they had a Circular Plastic Connector (CPC) by Amp already hanging there under the panel. All I had to do is put together the other half of the CPC plug with the wires from the stick. John -------- #40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327005#327005


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:46:21 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
    I have been watching this for a year too. I finally canceled my order with AS. http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327006#327006


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:02:40 AM PST US
    From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    I've seen a lot of problems with the ACKs that don't show up in other brands nearly as often. Failed G switch and false tripping due to RF are the common failures. They replace it no questions asked but it got to the point where it seemed that every one I inspected was broken. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 2:49 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote: > > Dave, > > could you be more specific, what was bad on that product please. The design > of the 406 does look pretty well done from what I did see but if you have > more details I would be more then glad to have them for a decision. > > Many thanks > > #41122 Empenage (HB-YPK reserved) > #5794 HB-YKP flying > > On 14.01.2011 05:25, Dave Saylor wrote: >> >> Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> >> >> You would have swapped out the ACK at some point anyway. Not a good >> product, certainly not one I would trust to save me, if the old 121.5 >> unit was any indicator. We've been installing Ameri-Kings and they >> seem OK. Kannad seems like better quality but more $$. >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> >> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Strasnuts<sean@braunandco.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>> I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can >>> install before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now >>> reluctantly order a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there >>> have any input, recommendations or experience with the new 406 ELTs? >>> >>> -------- >>> Cust. #40936 >>> RV-10 SB Fuselage >>> N801VR reserved >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:11:50 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
    I noticed the ACK's are a little heavier too. I guess one more pound isn't too bad but if I mount it out on the tail it is. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327012#327012


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:35:57 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    The latest update on their website was Jan. 6th, and it indicated that this week they may know if it's going to get submitted for approval. I've ordered mine long ago too, because it's got the most features for the dollar, and it is compatible for swap with what I have. I don't know about past quality issues, but considering the pretty extensive testing and retesting that I've watched this thing go through, I'd have confidence in it. You can tell that they don't just let anyone build these things and slap a sticker on it and sell it. Seeing the process go on and on really shows what hoops it takes to bring a certified product to market....makes us appreciate what we can do with our RV-10's. Anyway, it sounds like if the result is good, it's still just around the corner that the E-04 will come out. Yeah, it's been that way for a while, but at least they're going about it the right way. Personally, I think the benefits of integrated GPS (this one accepts many GPS's via serial), are big enough that I'm waiting as long as it takes. I'm not spending $1000 for an ELT when this one will be under $600. The only way that prices come down is by these market forces of people who will wait, and not pay the high prices. There are probably plenty of 121.5 ELT's that could be borrowed and installed for the short term. The ELT is probably one of the easiest things to retrofit later...in my case, I just yank the VS fairing and do a tiny bit of work. My existing panel stuff and wiring should work fine. I already have GPS data on a serial line that is easy to route back there too. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 1/14/2011 8:35 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > Yes. The ACK E01 is no longer produced, however one might find some > still in stock. The E04 unit awaiting approval supposedly will work with > 2, 4 or 6 wire connections to the panel. I'm not convinced that any of > the units on the market are much better than each other. They all have > to meet the TSO, most have Canadian and European approvals, as well as > passing COPAS/SARSATk testing. The G switch is likely the weak point in > all of them. > Whether the ACK is any good or not, it should put significant price > pressure on the other companies to come down close to its $600 price > threshold. It would be nice if selection could be made more on quality > and features and less on huge price differences. Seems like it would be > rather simple to put together a $700 unit with built in GPS, since most > of the PLB units have that feature. I don't like the idea of needing > external connections and relying on separate GPS to be turned on, etc. > > On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com > <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>> wrote: > > <jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>> > > If you are waiting for a new unit to come on the market and it's a > cost concern, can't you still just put in a 121.5 ELT and then swap > it out with the new unit when it comes out? I know some of the > AmeriKing ELT's fit in the same mount as eachother, so the 121.5 > mount will hold the 406 ELT. The only difference in the one that I > used was that the "phone" cord from the ELT to the control unit on > the panel was 6 wires on the 406 and only 4 on the 121.5. > > do not archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com> > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > On Jan 13, 2011, at 10:27 PM, Strasnuts wrote: > > <mailto:sean@braunandco.com>> > > > > I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market > so I can install before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and > will now reluctantly order a different 406 ELT (for more money). > Anyone out there have any input, recommendations or experience > with the new 406 ELTs? > > > > -------- > > Cust. #40936 > > RV-10 SB Fuselage > > N801VR reserved > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * > > > *


    Message 13


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    Time: 08:43:43 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control stick connector
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    Just finished this yesterday. I used a 25-pin d-sub zip tied to the landing gear mount. Seems to work fine. -Rob On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com> wrote: > > What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I > saw some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the > landing gear bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't > order the longer cables. > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 14


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    Time: 08:48:47 AM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Basic Fluting Question
    First, I just want to say that when I first managed to flute the ribs on the elevator counterweight ribs, I felt like a sheet metal Jedi Master. Getting them to lie flat was very cool. However, later I found that my 2 elevator ribs were not exactly aligned with each other. That is, when I lined up my elevator trailing edges, the counterweight extensions weren't quite aligned. And vice-a-versa. It was one of the few places that CNC drilled holes didn't bring things into perfect alignment. Must have been that master fluting job. Actually, I don't know what happened. It's not enough to worry about in my opinion but I found it frustrating. Can't imagine that the fluting of the wing ribs would possibly be as critical. Hang in there though. I used 2 different fluting pliers and found that both had utility though I'm sure the job can be done with 1. No advice, just reflection... Bill Watson On 1/13/2011 5:38 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > If they stand up that much, I'd flute them and make them flatter. > I'm sure it could be fine if you installed them, but really, > the idea is to get that stress out of them and make them flat. > There is a technique to it, and it's easier to do or show > than speak, but once you get the hang of it, you'll have it > down. It's been a LOOONG time, but I think that the one you > have the picture of in this email probably is over-fluted, > and that's why it's bowed up. If you flute less, the length > of the bottom edge would be longer, and it would tend to > make it flatter. Picture it as a bar that you want to bend, > and if you flute one side, it bends that way. Well, you > fluted the side facing down, and when you got to a certain > point, the thing bent in a curve facing that direction. > So I'd relax the flutes and see what happens. > > You'll get the hang of it. > Tim > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD > do not archive > > > On 1/13/2011 3:05 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: >> Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my >> ribs have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I >> assume). I cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting >> them--no matter what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while >> on a table they lie flat but the instant I let go they spring right back >> so they are twisted. Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get >> the rivet holes lined up good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've >> had a few in the past like this that I just installed and the clecoes >> very easily pull the rib into place. Is this acceptable? If not, how do >> I correct. I've attached a few pictures to better describe my issue. >> Thanks in advance, >> Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 10:54:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
    I have the Artex 406. The SAR guys can pick up its signal ground to ground from more than 10 miles away. Ask me how I know. Jim Berry N15JB Phase I Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327035#327035


    Message 16


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    Time: 01:11:55 PM PST US
    From: tony Dubeansky <mrdubea@yahoo.com>


    Message 17


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    Time: 05:45:27 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: ACK-04 ELT
    From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
    If you want to wait and are not super concerned, it is my understanding that you do not need ANY ELT during Phase 1 flight testing due to the confined flight area. Buy a SPOT Messenger and wait it out. -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327064#327064


    Message 18


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    Time: 07:26:11 PM PST US
    From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions
    Hi Today I mounted my TT servo. After studying the detailed install pix, I did a search of the archives to find out where to drill the bell crank. I found Jay's email which has a small but critical typo. When I marked the location indicated, it didn't seem to match the location shown in the install pix. I confirmed with TT that the bell crank hole should be 2.5" up from the center hole and .25" aft of a line drawn beween the center hole and top hole. The result is consistent with the pix. I only mention this as the TT install docs are abysmal. The other prior posts (circa 2007) were very useful. I would be lost without this list... Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb Sent: August-02-07 3:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions I spoke with Zach at TT. They are working on AutoCAD diagrams, but do not have them ready at present... The bellcrank hole position is not critical, but should be located 2.25" up and .5" aft from the center hole. The TT bracket supplied by Vans in the -10 kit should be discarded. Instead, use the one supplied with the servo. Regards, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127234#127234


    Message 19


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    Time: 08:52:09 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions
    From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
    I would recommend installing .063" spacer in bellcrank where your hole is drilled. Otherwise you cannot torque bolt without deforming the bellcrank. I bet there is a bunch out there without this installed. During your annual inspection keep an eye on the cable around the phenolic pulley(torque enhancer). If it breaks it could limit up elevator travel as it jams against mounting bracket. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&amp;P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 39 Control System. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327072#327072


    Message 20


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    Time: 09:03:25 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Basic Fluting Question
    From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
    I found lining up a flexible 24" steel rule with the hole edges to work the best. The edge distance always varies due to the holes being punched then the rib forming. By lying them on a table you may get a straight sheetmetal edge but not a straight set of holes. The pre-punched skin holes are in a straight line so you want to have the holes in the ribs in a straight line not the edge of the metal flange. I just did a little at a time and if I overdid it just went back and took some out. After a few ribs you know just how much force to use and where. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&amp;P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 39 Control System. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327073#327073




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