Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:27 AM - Re: plane power alternator (Werner Schneider)
2. 06:28 AM - Re: plane power alternator (DLM)
3. 07:55 AM - Re: plane power alternator (Dave Saylor)
4. 08:09 AM - Re: plane power alternator (DLM)
5. 11:54 AM - Tom Reading email? (Tim Olson)
6. 12:47 PM - Re hoses (pilotdds)
7. 01:50 PM - Fuel tank skins (Billy & Tami Britton)
8. 01:50 PM - Re: Re hoses (Don McDonald)
9. 02:08 PM - Re: Fuel tank skins (Sean S. Blair)
10. 02:41 PM - Re: Re hoses (Bob Leffler)
11. 02:43 PM - Re: Re hoses (Bob Leffler)
12. 02:54 PM - ASP switches (aerosport1)
13. 02:55 PM - Re: Re hoses (pilotdds)
14. 03:02 PM - Re: Fuel tank skins (Ron B.)
15. 03:02 PM - Re: Re hoses (pilotdds)
16. 03:37 PM - Re: Re hoses (Robin Marks)
17. 04:04 PM - Re: Re hoses (Strasnuts)
18. 08:47 PM - Re: Re hoses (Don McDonald)
19. 09:01 PM - Re: Engine heater (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
Hello Dave,
I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting after a
few 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and you
hear only when things are going wrong.
Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more
service history?
br Werner
On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the same
> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it in
> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
> there was any charge.
>
> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
> better than the originals.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM<dlm34077@q.com> wrote:
>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and breakers to
>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked the
>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins showed
>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part (regulator,diodes
>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder suggested a
>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with Plane power
>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation from about
>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not require
>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something. Part time
>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
I will be checking with Vans to determine when I received mine. I bought
virtually the entire 10 kit between 2004 - 2005 so I may have gotten one
of the earlier ones. Mine was no false low voltage as the voltmeter
reading at the buss was always battery voltage with or without the
alternator ON. They tried to help me confirm that the problem was
actually the alternator before shipping it to them. I went so far as to
drive over to my former avionics instructor's shop and he confirmed that
their was high resistance on the field pin. It ws 500+ ohms when it
should have been 4 ohms. At 12V the field should allow about 3A but with
a 500 ohm resistance it would allow about .024A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane power alternator
>
> Hello Dave,
>
> I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting after
a
> few 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and you
> hear only when things are going wrong.
>
> Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more
> service history?
>
> br Werner
>
> On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave
Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>>
>> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the
same
>> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it
in
>> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
>> there was any charge.
>>
>> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
>> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
>> better than the originals.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM<dlm34077@q.com> wrote:
>>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and
breakers to
>>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked
the
>>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins
showed
>>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
>>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
>>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
(regulator,diodes
>>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder
suggested a
>>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with
Plane power
>>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation
from about
>>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not
require
>>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something.
Part time
>>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
Yeah, I would recommend them. The one I replaced it with has been on
for several hundred more. We just passed 750 hours. I think we
changed the first one around 300 hours.
I've done a lot of mx on B&C regulators over the years. They usually
get installed in the most inconvenient of places, so not having to
deal with a regulator is a big plus for me.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jan 18, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> Hello Dave,
>
> I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting after a few
> 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and you hear only
> when things are going wrong.
>
> Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more service
> history?
>
> br Werner
>
> On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>>
>> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the same
>> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it in
>> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
>> there was any charge.
>>
>> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
>> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
>> better than the originals.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM<dlm34077@q.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and breakers
>>> to
>>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked the
>>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins
>>> showed
>>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
>>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
>>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
>>> (regulator,diodes
>>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder suggested a
>>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with Plane
>>> power
>>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation from
>>> about
>>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not
>>> require
>>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something. Part
>>> time
>>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
After checking with Vans, I found that the unit received with the
finishing kit in 2005 did not have overvoltage protection and was
exchanged in June -July 2007 for one with over voltage protection.
----- Original Message -----
From: DLM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane power alternator
I will be checking with Vans to determine when I received mine. I
bought virtually the entire 10 kit between 2004 - 2005 so I may have
gotten one of the earlier ones. Mine was no false low voltage as the
voltmeter reading at the buss was always battery voltage with or without
the alternator ON. They tried to help me confirm that the problem was
actually the alternator before shipping it to them. I went so far as to
drive over to my former avionics instructor's shop and he confirmed that
their was high resistance on the field pin. It ws 500+ ohms when it
should have been 4 ohms. At 12V the field should allow about 3A but with
a 500 ohm resistance it would allow about .024A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane power alternator
>
> Hello Dave,
>
> I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting
after a
> few 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and
you
> hear only when things are going wrong.
>
> Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more
> service history?
>
> br Werner
>
> On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave
Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>>
>> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the
same
>> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it
in
>> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
>> there was any charge.
>>
>> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the
back.
>> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
>> better than the originals.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM<dlm34077@q.com> wrote:
>>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and
breakers to
>>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked
the
>>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all
pins showed
>>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a
larger
>>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to
the
>>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
(regulator,diodes
>>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder
suggested a
>>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with
Plane power
>>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation
from about
>>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do
not require
>>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something.
Part time
>>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ==========
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> bsp; via the
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> bsp; - generous support!
> bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
> ==========
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tom Reading email? |
Does anyone have an email address for Tom Reading?
Rather than post it to the group, please reply offline.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 6
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I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 V
A-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasti
ng teflon cores.
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target="_blank">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
Message 7
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Hello again. I'm trying to put my fuel tank ribs into the skin and I
cannot get both sides lined up. I can get clecoes into one side but
then the other side is way off. By "forcing" the rib into the skin I
can get some of the holes within 1/8 - 1/4 inch from lining up on the
unclecoed side. It's almost like the skin didn't get enough "roll" when
they were rolled at the factory. Another possibility is maybe it has
lost some of it's bend over time lying in the crate (I've had my wing
kit for a couple years now).
Anybody have any suggestions? Is there an "easy" way to put a little
more bend or "roll" into the skin?
Again, thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Bill
Message 8
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Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers, typ
e, =0Alength, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the
fuel =0Acontroller-and the flow divder?- Be nice to have all the parts
before starting =0Athe switch.=0AThanks, Don McDonald=0A=0AHey Jim,-ever
coming to Texas for a visit?-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________
____=0AFrom: pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASe
nt: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re hoses=0A=0AI
just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00--- VA-138- 38
.00- =0AVA-102- $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and h
ad long lasting =0Ateflon cores.=0A=0A=0A=0Awww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1
0-List"; =0Atarget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com=0AMatt Dralle
, List Admin.=0A======0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A-- =0ARob Kochman=0ARV-
10 "Finishing" Kit=0AWoodinville, WA (near Seattle)=0Ahttp://kochman.net/N8
19K=0A=0A get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =0Ap:/
/forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A=0A
============ =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank skins |
Bill,
The tank skins are known to be tough to deal with initially.=C2- With the
skin relaxed and open,=C2-place clecoes in the first several holes on th
e top portion of the leading edge for several interior ribs.=C2- Next, pl
ace several clecoes in the leading edge holes for the bottom.=C2- From th
ere, it should get easier.
Sean Blair
COS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 2:47:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skins
Hello again.=C2- I'm trying to put my fuel tank ribs into the skin and I
cannot get both sides lined up.=C2- I can get clecoes into one side but t
hen the other side is way off.=C2- By "forcing" the rib into the skin I c
an get some of the holes within 1/8 - 1/4 inch from lining up on the unclec
oed side.=C2- It's almost like the skin didn't get enough "roll" when the
y were rolled at the factory.=C2- Another possibility is maybe it has los
t some of it's bend over time lying in the crate (I've had my wing kit for
a couple years now).
Anybody have any suggestions?=C2- Is there an "easy" way to put a little
more bend or "roll" into the skin?
Again, thanks in advance for any suggestions,
============
==
Message 10
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No, but in about two weeks, I'll need that data too.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses
Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers,
type, length, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the
fuel controller and the flow divder? Be nice to have all the parts before
starting the switch.
Thanks, Don McDonald
Hey Jim, ever coming to Texas for a visit?
_____
From: pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>
Sent: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses
I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00
VA-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long
lasting teflon cores.
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22> ";
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matron===================
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
Email Forum -
Features Navigator to browse
such as List Un/Subscription,
Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 11
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Interesting pricing...
VA-189 is half price of Van's, but VA-102 is twice as expensive. Did you
get pricing on the oil hoses?
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses
I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00
VA-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long
lasting teflon cores.
Message 12
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I would like to let everyone know that Aerosport Products is now offering
ASP switches. These are LED lit. Check them out at www.aerosportproducts.com/switches.htm
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327479#327479
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/n829gw_switches_154.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/switchpanel2_153.jpg
Message 13
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That is because 102 has firesleeve from bonaco-does not from vans-jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 2:43 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re hoses
Interesting pricing
VA-189 is half price of Van=99s, but VA-102 is twice as expensive.
Did you get pricing on the oil hoses?
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses
I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 V
A-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasti
ng teflon cores.
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank skins |
Make sure your ribs have a smooth radius or the rib tips will dent your skins as
there is a far amount of pressure when you install them.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327480#327480
Message 15
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I will come to Texas this fall are you getting any flying in?Does anyone ha
ve any info on G900 fuel flow senders as far as what is used and where they
are placed.Don brings up a good point that is important information before
planing hoses.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don McDonald <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 1:50 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses
Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers, typ
e, length, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the fu
el controller and the flow divder? Be nice to have all the parts before st
arting the switch.
Thanks, Don McDonald
Hey Jim, ever coming to Texas for a visit?
From: pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>
Sent: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses
I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 V
A-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasti
ng teflon cores.
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target="_blank">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
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Message 16
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Relocating the FF Transducer for our G900X to between the FM300 and the
Spider resolved significant issues I had with inaccurate, bouncing and low
pressure readings. We do not have the =93red cube=94 transducer.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *pilotdds
*Sent:* Tuesday, January 18, 2011 2:58 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re hoses
I will come to Texas this fall are you getting any flying in?Does anyone
have any info on G900 fuel flow senders as far as what is used and where
they are placed.Don brings up a good point that is important information
before planing hoses.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don McDonald <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 1:50 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses
Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers,
type, length, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the
fuel controller and the flow divder? Be nice to have all the parts before
starting the switch.
Thanks, Don McDonald
Hey Jim, ever coming to Texas for a visit?
------------------------------
*From:* pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Sent:* Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM
*Subject:* RV10-List: Re hoses
I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00
VA-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long
lasting teflon cores.
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-List>;
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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Message 17
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I believe the G3X uses the same as the G900. The instructions show both the red
cube EI FT-60 and the Flo-scan 201B-6. The red cube has double the k-factor
at 68,000. I installed mine FWF for a more accurate reading taking out most
of the fuel pump pulses.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327488#327488
Message 18
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Flew to lunch today.- Beautiful day.- Definitely more fly days here per
year =0Athan in the Sacramento area.- Dennis Mangan is towing his 5th wh
eel here around =0Athe 11th of March on the way to Florida.- Give us a he
ads up.- 2 extra rooms =0Aavailable.- The bad news is that our fuel-j
ust went up to $3.45 a gallon.- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________
______=0AFrom: pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A
Sent: Tue, January 18, 2011 4:58:08 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses
=0A=0AI will come to Texas this fall are you getting any flying in?Does any
one have =0Aany info on G900 fuel flow senders as far as what is used and w
here they are =0Aplaced.Don brings up a good point that is important inform
ation before planing =0Ahoses.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AF
rom: Don McDonald <building_partner@yahoo.com>=0ATo: rv10-list <rv10-list@m
atronics.com>=0ASent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 1:50 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: R
e hoses=0A=0A=0AAnybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including p
art numbers, type, =0Alength, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow
cube between the fuel =0Acontroller-and the flow divder?- Be nice to ha
ve all the parts before starting =0Athe switch.=0AThanks, Don McDonald=0A
=0AHey Jim,-ever coming to Texas for a visit?-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________
______________________=0AFrom: pilotdds <pilotdds@aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@
matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List
: Re hoses=0A=0AI just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00-
-- VA-138- 38.00- =0AVA-102- $38.00 . All hoses including 102 wer
e firesleeved and had long lasting =0Ateflon cores.=0A=0A=0A=0Awww.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; =0Atarget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List=0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics
.com=0AMatt Dralle, List Admin.=0A======0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A--
=0ARob Kochman=0ARV-10 "Finishing" Kit=0AWoodinville, WA (near Seattle)=0Ah
ttp://kochman.net/N819K=0A=0A get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV10-List =0Ap://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution =0A=0Ahttp://www.matron=============
======= =0A=0A get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV10-List =0Ap://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/co
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Engine heater |
A couple days ago I ran across a "letter to the editor" in Sport
Aviation (Dec. 2010, from the guy at Reiff Preheat systems.
I attached it in .jpg form for you. He makes a couple good
points about engine heating and about leaving them on all the
time. I know from people I've talked to over the years, I've
heard it various ways that you either can or can't leave
them on all the time. The letter referenced this FAQ of
Reiff's:
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/FAQ.htm#QA3
I've always just left mine plugged in, that FAQ also references
an Aviation consumer article that I have, where they tested
heaters and the dewpoint and temperature of the engines and
basically found that if you have a good heater that heats
nice and warm on the whole upper (cylinders) and lower (sump),
that you're not very likely to have the conditions that will
cause high moisture and rust in your engine if you leave it
on all the time.
The Aviation Consumer article is worth reading if you have
a subscription. If not, and you want it, let me know and
I can fax it or something.
If you have a sump heater only, you won't do as good a job
heating your engine as a whole, and you may indeed have
oil warmed that brings moisture up to condense up higher
where it's cold. So it would be much more of a problem
with the cheap partial heaters. I guess what I get out
of it is, if you really need heat, either buy a whole
system (I have the reiff with cylinder bands, which was
simple to install) and feel free to operate it is you wish,
or get a system that you only use when you plan to fly.
One of my issues is, I never know when I want to fly, at this
time of year. The days sneak up on you. If I continuous
heat, it'll be ready anytime. If not, it won't necessarily
heat fast enough (unless maybe you buy the fast system),
to be worth turning on. Add to that the complexity of
getting a remotely operated switch to turn on the heater.
In my case, I leave it on all the time and it's something
like 250 watts....so a big light bulb. The bill isn't
bad for that to run all winter. In fact, a remote switch
would cost me well over $100-150 (plus internet access with
a static IP) for a good one, and I don't spend that much
to heat the plane for a few years. Also, it takes me
15-30 minutes to get to the hangar if I wanted to go there
and turn it on, and then go wait while it heats...a waste
of time. So leaving it on works perfectly for me.
One last point is, if you put it on a timer, or cycle
it on when you think you may fly, just in case, but then
don't fly, you're probably more likely to cause moisture
buildup from the heat cycling, than if you just brought
it up to temp and left it warm. So if you heat it,
fly it, I guess is the idea, if you're not continuous.
Get the oil temp to 180F so you evaporate the moisture
before you put it away.
Anyway, all good things to think about in relation to
heaters. I've had great luck continuous heating with
both a Tanis and Reiff system. The only negative about
the Tanis for me today would be it uses the CHT bayonet
port, which I use for my probes. If you use the Tanis,
you'll probably need ring type CHT probes which aren't
quite as accurate.
Happy winter flying! Was out a few days ago...and with
my daughter we were climbing over 2200fpm with the 2 of
us. Winter performance is great!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 1/8/2011 9:12 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Les Kearney"<kearney@shaw.ca>
>
> Marcus
>
> I live where it gets quite nippy in winter - I have flow in in -30c weather.
> About 10 years ago I installed on of these on my Piper Cherokee.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/symtecpreheat.php
>
> I give this a 5 star rating as it does a great job. I like the oil sump
> heater as it heats the old and then the engine. When my EGT / CHT temps are
> up, it means the who engine, including the core is heated. Heating the
> cylinders first seems counter intuitive but may be wrong.
>
> Any way, cheaper is not necessarily better. The nice thin about these
> heaters is that they are elements in solid al epoxied to the sump. Not
> silicone pads that might age.
>
> Anyways, this just my opinion...
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
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