Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: Re: AOA switch and Alternator questions (Alan Mekler)
2. 05:50 AM - Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos (Les Kearney)
3. 07:03 AM - Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos (Lew Gallagher)
4. 07:04 AM - I shant shunt (Chris Hukill)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos (Linn Walters)
6. 07:32 AM - Re: I shant shunt (John Gonzalez)
7. 07:32 AM - Re: I shant shunt (Linn Walters)
8. 08:17 AM - Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos (Don McDonald)
9. 08:39 AM - showplane flaps (John Gonzalez)
10. 09:35 AM - Re: showplane flaps (Michael Kraus)
11. 09:42 AM - Re: showplane flaps (Mike Schulz)
12. 10:37 AM - fuel caps (Billy & Tami Britton)
13. 11:08 AM - fuel tanks (DLM)
14. 11:40 AM - Re: fuel caps (Michael Kraus)
15. 02:56 PM - Re: fuel caps (rv10flyer)
16. 04:19 PM - What's that sound...... (Eric_Kallio)
17. 05:00 PM - Re: What's that sound...... (Seano)
18. 05:35 PM - Re: Re: fuel caps (Billy & Tami Britton)
19. 05:43 PM - Landing gear shake (Roger Standley)
20. 05:53 PM - Re: Re: fuel caps (Rob Kermanj)
21. 05:59 PM - Re: Landing gear shake (Linn Walters)
22. 06:03 PM - Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos (Les Kearney)
23. 06:15 PM - Re: Landing gear shake (Carl Froehlich)
24. 06:34 PM - Re: Landing gear shake (Phillip Perry)
25. 06:54 PM - Re: Landing gear shake (Phillip Perry)
26. 07:06 PM - Re: fuel caps (rv10flyer)
27. 07:49 PM - Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos (Linn Walters)
28. 07:54 PM - Re: What's that sound...... (rv10flyer)
29. 08:06 PM - Re: Re: fuel caps (Billy & Tami Britton)
30. 08:35 PM - Re: Re: fuel caps (Rob Kermanj)
31. 09:00 PM - Re: Re: fuel caps (Robin Marks)
32. 09:21 PM - Re: Re: fuel caps (Deems Davis)
33. 09:25 PM - Re: What's that sound...... (Rob Kochman)
34. 09:26 PM - First engine start (Rob Kochman)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | AOA switch and Alternator questions |
Yes
Alan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions
Page 14 of AFS manual:
Flap Sensor
The AOA can use either the flap position sensor for the screen or the
supplied switch connected to Input #3 on the main EFIS harness. The AOA Use
Flap Sensor sould be set to YES if you have installed the Linear Flap
Position Sensor for the screen in instrument Calibration.
Is this what you are refering to?
This is what I was asking when I made the comment about software vs.
hardware. I just didn't understand the words, "Flap Position Sensor for the
Screen" I thought the system pretty lame if I couldn't use the Pos 12
instrument.
Now that I sent a few hours and am ready to install the switch, haven't
drilled holes yet???????????????????????????????????????
John
_____
From: amekler@metrocast.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions
John,
I was told if you use the Ray Allen POS12 then you don't need the flap
switch that came with the AOA.
Alan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 5:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions
Thank you all for your most excellent input and fast responses.
JOhn
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Speaking of Ray Allen Servos |
Hi Linn
Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the ELECTRICAL
tab on the http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html website is a video
called STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scroll down to get to the
video. It illustrates the technique very clearly.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: January-22-11 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am mounting
mine Monday so it was very timely indeed.
Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 connector
wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by soldering a wire to
it and then attaching it to a ground block?
Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it.
If not, what how do I handle the shield.
The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you need
to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice pick or
similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through the hole.
Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if you fold the wire
back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets easier with practice.
Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the wires exit the shield. I
think there's an EAA video on this method.
Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the trim servo
wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim servo wire handle
things adequately or is it even a concern?
As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The equipment
manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the shield(s) at one or
both ends.
Linn
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos |
Speaking of Ray Allen ServosHey Les,
Thanks for the link. This is the first time I've seen this source of
information, and it looks like it will be good for a few hours of
wintertime obsessing!
Although the video is great for releasing wires from shielded cable, I
was also hoping it would address the original question of how to strip
those seemingly hair thin wires without damaging the wires. So far,
I've just been very careful with a blade -- with mixed results. I think
I've seen some guys just pull the insulation off with fingernails?
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Hi Linn
Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the
ELECTRICAL tab on the http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html website
is a video called STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scroll down to
get to the video. It illustrates the technique very clearly.
Cheers
Les
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Just curious
Why are you guys using shunts anyway? A hall effect with the feed wires
passing thru them is a far more elegant solution.
Kind of like using LEDs instead of incadesent bulbs.
Chris Hukill
stirring the pot
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos |
On 1/23/2011 9:58 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
> Hey Les,
> Thanks for the link. This is the first time I've seen this source of
> information, and it looks like it will be good for a few hours of
> wintertime obsessing!
> Although the video is great for releasing wires from shielded cable, I
> was also hoping it would address the original question of how to strip
> those seemingly hair thin wires without damaging the wires. So far,
> I've just been very careful with a blade -- with mixed results.
You can buy good 'automatic' strippers, but also get the blades for real
small wire sizes.
If you use a single-edged razor blade with a little pressure and roll
the wire while cutting the insulation and a little practice, you can
strip wires easily.
You can also bend the wire, press the razor blade to the insulation and
you'll see the insulation separate. Do not let the razor blade 'saw'
against the conductor. Works great on larger wires like coax.
> I think I've seen some guys just pull the insulation off with
> fingernails?
I doubt that the new Tefzel insulation will give up to a fingernail.
The old telephone wire could be stripped with fingernails, but that's
the only example I have. Some folks have fingernails that are really
thick and hard, so I wouldn't say it didn't happen.
The Tefzel insulation is also so slippery that it's hard to pull it off
the conductor. If you get a rubber boot for a large alligator clip,
insert the wire in the small hole end, pinch with your fingers and pull,
it'll come right off. I haven't been able to figure out why, but it
works so I use it.
Linn
> Later, - Lew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:47 AM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
>
> Hi Linn
> Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the
> ELECTRICAL tab on the
> http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html website is a video
> called STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scroll down to get
> to the video. It illustrates the technique very clearly.
> Cheers
> Les
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
AFS ships their units with a shunt. One gets to a point that one just wants
to get it done! And with that said=2C the orders to ACS just keep being pl
aced. One or two items at a time.
From: cjhukill@cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: I shant shunt
Just curious
Why are you guys using shunts anyway? A hall effect with the feed wires pas
sing thru them is a far more elegant solution.
Kind of like using LEDs instead of incadesent bulbs.
Chris Hukill
stirring the pot
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I shant shunt |
On 1/23/2011 9:56 AM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Just curious
> Why are you guys using shunts anyway?
Probably because their wiring diagram shows one.
> A hall effect with the feed wires passing thru them is a far more
> elegant solution.
I agree, but they may be more $$ than the shunt. I haven't compared
prices though. I'll be using the hall effect sensor on my -10 because
there's two less connections on the fat wires.
> Kind of like using LEDs instead of incadesent bulbs.
Good example!
> Chris Hukill
> stirring the pot
Hmmm. I thought they smoked the pot????
Linn .... doesn't smoke anything ..... well some electronics once in a
while. :-(
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos |
Lew, Just take a wire about 6" long, like the piano wire which goes through
the =0Acowl pins, put it to the grinder and make a point.- Then use a de
burring wheel =0Aand polish it up and remove the "sharp" point.- You'll f
ind it works perfectly.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________________
_______=0AFrom: Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matroni
cs.com=0ASent: Sun, January 23, 2011 8:58:08 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: S
peaking of Ray Allen Servos=0A=0A=0AHey Les,=0A-=0AThanks for the link.
- This is the first time I've seen this source of =0Ainformation, and it
looks like it will be good for a few hours of wintertime =0Aobsessing!-
=0A=0A-=0AAlthough the video is great for releasing wires from shielded c
able, I was also =0Ahoping it would address the original question of how to
strip those seemingly =0Ahair thin wires without damaging the wires.- So
far, I've just been very careful =0Awith a blade ---with mixed results.
- I think I've seen some guys just pull the =0Ainsulation off with finger
nails?=0A-=0ALater, - Lew=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>From: Les Ke
arney =0A>To: rv10-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:
47 AM=0A>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos=0A>=0A>=0A>Hi
Linn=0A>-=0A>Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under
the ELECTRICAL tab =0A>on the http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html
-website is a video called =0A>STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scr
oll down to get to the video. It =0A>illustrates the technique very clearly
= =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I am wondering whether I have done something incorrectly with my showplane
flap setup. The flaps go down incrementally(Good)=2C but do not do that in
reverse order. Once the switch is used to bring the flaps up=2C they come u
p all at once. In sailplanes one doesn't raise the flaps in flight like thi
s unless the nose of the glider is pointing down. In otherwords=2C altitude
would be a good thing. The flap motor is working pretty slow so it probabl
y is just fine.
My biggest concern is that once the flaps reach all the way up=2C the flap
motor keeps running until the switch is switched off. Only then does the mo
tor stops running. I am thinking of using the AOA switch instead of for the
AOA system=2C but for a green LED light to show when the flaps are all the
way up and to remind me to touch the switch again.
It is easy to hear the motor running when the aircraft engine isn't running
=2C but I can seee how the flap motor could be left running during the enti
re flight.
John
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: showplane flaps |
Yes, the flaps go all the way up. But the motor should stop at the top.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2011, at 11:16 AM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
> I am wondering whether I have done something incorrectly with my showplane
flap setup. The flaps go down incrementally(Good), but do not do that in re
verse order. Once the switch is used to bring the flaps up, they come up all
at once. In sailplanes one doesn't raise the flaps in flight like this unle
ss the nose of the glider is pointing down. In otherwords, altitude would be
a good thing. The flap motor is working pretty slow so it probably is just f
ine.
>
> My biggest concern is that once the flaps reach all the way up, the flap m
otor keeps running until the switch is switched off. Only then does the moto
r stops running. I am thinking of using the AOA switch instead of for the AO
A system, but for a green LED light to show when the flaps are all the way u
p and to remind me to touch the switch again.
>
> It is easy to hear the motor running when the aircraft engine isn't runnin
g, but I can seee how the flap motor could be left running during the entire
flight.
>
> John
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: showplane flaps |
JOHN
I had the same issue and found it just needed more adjustment then it shut
off.
Mike Schulz
40447
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 10:16 AM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>wrote:
> I am wondering whether I have done something incorrectly with my showplane
> flap setup. The flaps go *down *incrementally(Good), but do not do that in
> reverse order. Once the switch is used to bring the flaps *up*, they come
> up all at once. In sailplanes one doesn't raise the flaps in flight like
> this unless the nose of the glider is pointing down. In otherwords, altitude
> would be a good thing. The flap motor is working pretty slow so it probably
> is just fine.
>
> My biggest concern is that once the flaps reach all the way up, the flap
> motor keeps running until the switch is switched off. Only then does the
> motor stops running. I am thinking of using the AOA switch instead of for
> the AOA system, but for a green LED light to show when the flaps are all the
> way up and to remind me to touch the switch again.
>
> It is easy to hear the motor running when the aircraft engine isn't
> running, but I can seee how the flap motor could be left running during the
> entire flight.
>
> John
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Has anybody used the deluxe locking fuel caps from Vans? Link to the
caps I'm referring to is below. If so, what kind of mods were required
to install them? In you're opinion, are they worth the money?
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1295806930-288-72
3&browse=misc&product=delux-cap
Thanks,
Bill
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Has anyone priced the materials from Vans to rebuild the fuel tanks?
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I installed them on my -10, but not flying yet. I had the standard ones on m
y RV-4, and really didn't like the old ones. I like these much better. Ton
s easier to get the caps on and off, and I think they were worth the money.
No modifications needed if you are slow building the tanks. They are not r
etrofittable on a built tank, unless you want to make an access hole...
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2011, at 1:26 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net> wrote
:
> Has anybody used the deluxe locking fuel caps from Vans? Link to the caps
I'm referring to is below. If so, what kind of mods were required to insta
ll them? In you're opinion, are they worth the money?
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1295806930-288-723
&browse=misc&product=delux-cap
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the curvature
with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about an hour or so
for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum alloy...don't have any idea,
but they will get very hot while sanding so keep some water handy and good leather
gloves. You'll like them once done with sanding/installation.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | What's that sound...... |
.....It's the sound of my engine roaring to life. Had to adjust the timing from
the manufacturer, but the engine cranked and ran like a champ. What a pretty
sound. The DAR was through today and told me to go ahead and button it all up.
Inspection is essentially over, but he wants to see it in flight ready condition
and to see me at least taxi it before handing over the airworthiness certificate.
Although even he said that isn't a requirement it is something he likes
to see. The end is near, and so is the first flight.
Eric Kallio
N518RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328111#328111
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: What's that sound...... |
Nice work! Congrats.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2011, at 17:16, "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com> wrote:
>
> .....It's the sound of my engine roaring to life. Had to adjust the timing from
the manufacturer, but the engine cranked and ran like a champ. What a pretty
sound. The DAR was through today and told me to go ahead and button it all up.
Inspection is essentially over, but he wants to see it in flight ready condition
and to see me at least taxi it before handing over the airworthiness certificate.
Although even he said that isn't a requirement it is something he likes
to see. The end is near, and so is the first flight.
>
> Eric Kallio
> N518RV
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328111#328111
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Can you explain the curvature you mentioned? Is it to get the flange to fit
to the shape of the skins?
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 4:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
>
> I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the
> curvature with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about
> an hour or so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum
> alloy...don't have any idea, but they will get very hot while sanding so
> keep some water handy and good leather gloves. You'll like them once done
> with sanding/installation.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
>
>
> ns
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
>
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Landing gear shake |
Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was
landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph.
Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems
to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20
mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left main was
shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back.
Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize
the shaking that anyone has discovered?
Thank you,
Roger Standley
N291RV
165 hours
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I bought the Andair locking caps. I think $80 each. As it is true of all their
products; cost more but high quality. Make sure you ask for a common key though.
Do not archive
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 23, 2011, at 3:50 PM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the curvature
with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about an hour or
so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum alloy...don't have any idea,
but they will get very hot while sanding so keep some water handy and good leather
gloves. You'll like them once done with sanding/installation.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
Just a SWAG, but you may have a warped brake disc. Or the brake disk
may not be seated perpendicular to the axle. Forward/aft 'walking' is
indicative of varying drag ..... or waves in the surface of the runway
or ramp.
Let us know what you find.
Linn
On 1/23/2011 8:40 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was
> landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph.
> Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes
> seems to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing
> below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left
> main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back.
> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize
> the shaking that anyone has discovered?
> Thank you,
> Roger Standley
> N291RV
> 165 hours
> *
>
>
> *
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Speaking of Ray Allen Servos |
Hi Linn
A small but perhaps important question. What kind of lug do you attach?
Crimp on ring terminal?
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: January-22-11 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am mounting
mine Monday so it was very timely indeed.
Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 connector
wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by soldering a wire to
it and then attaching it to a ground block?
Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it.
If not, what how do I handle the shield.
The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you need
to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice pick or
similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through the hole.
Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if you fold the wire
back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets easier with practice.
Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the wires exit the shield. I
think there's an EAA video on this method.
Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the trim servo
wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim servo wire handle
things adequately or is it even a concern?
As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The equipment
manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the shield(s) at one or
both ends.
Linn
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Landing gear shake |
Good discussions on this in the archive.
Standard things to check:
- Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights -
available at Matco.
- Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings.
The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push.
- Check that you don't have an out of round tire.
- On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not
already done:
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html This enables
a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork
mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear
vibration.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (600 hours)
RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I
have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
rapidly moving forward and back.
Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
shaking that anyone has discovered?
Thank you,
Roger Standley
N291RV
165 hours
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
I have a static balancer and found that following Van's 'red dot'
plans but the tire/wheel assemblies at the most extreme out of balance
scenario. I eventually had to install the red dot 180 degrees
opposite of Vans plans and still add weight to bring the assembly into
balance.
This was true on both of the mains. I can't speak for Vans nosewheel
because I went with the Matco setup.
Your milage may vary, but this was just waht I found on mine after
balancing them.
On 1/23/11, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
> Good discussions on this in the archive.
>
>
> Standard things to check:
>
> - Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights -
> available at Matco.
>
> - Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings.
> The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push.
>
> - Check that you don't have an out of round tire.
>
> - On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not
> already done:
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html This enables
> a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork
> mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear
> vibration.
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (600 hours)
>
> RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install)
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
>
> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I
> have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
> nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
> are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
> rapidly moving forward and back.
>
> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
> shaking that anyone has discovered?
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Roger Standley
>
> N291RV
>
> 165 hours
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
but = put
I should proof read before clicking send. :(
On 1/23/11, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a static balancer and found that following Van's 'red dot'
> plans but the tire/wheel assemblies at the most extreme out of balance
> scenario. I eventually had to install the red dot 180 degrees
> opposite of Vans plans and still add weight to bring the assembly into
> balance.
>
> This was true on both of the mains. I can't speak for Vans nosewheel
> because I went with the Matco setup.
>
> Your milage may vary, but this was just waht I found on mine after
> balancing them.
>
> On 1/23/11, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>> Good discussions on this in the archive.
>>
>>
>>
>> Standard things to check:
>>
>> - Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights
>> -
>> available at Matco.
>>
>> - Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings.
>> The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push.
>>
>> - Check that you don't have an out of round tire.
>>
>> - On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not
>> already done:
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html This
>> enables
>> a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork
>> mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear
>> vibration.
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl Froehlich
>>
>> RV-8A (600 hours)
>>
>> RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install)
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
>> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
>> I
>> have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
>> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse
>> but
>> nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
>> are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
>> rapidly moving forward and back.
>>
>> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
>> shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>>
>>
>> Roger Standley
>>
>> N291RV
>>
>> 165 hours
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Bill,
Yes, they are made for a tank skin with more curvature than ours so you just have
to flatten them out some. You may have a small gap but once you use plenty
of tank sealant and rivet them they look real good. I used almost one can per
tank. No leaks at 1 psi.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328146#328146
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos |
On 1/23/2011 8:59 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi Linn
> A small but perhaps important question. What kind of lug do you
> attach? Crimp on ring terminal?
Usually. I put a little (1/2") heat shrink on the braid, crimp the
terminal, and then do the shrinking. Don't cheap out on the crimp
connectors, and use a good crimper.
Hammers and vice grips don't hack it. Not saying you'd do that, but
you'd be surprised how many do.
Linn
> Cheers
> Les
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Linn Walters
> *Sent:* January-22-11 6:31 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
>
> On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am
>> mounting mine Monday so it was very timely indeed.
>>
>> Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2
>> connector wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by
>> soldering a wire to it and then attaching it to a ground block?
>>
> Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it.
>>
>> If not, what how do I handle the shield.
>>
> The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you
> need to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice
> pick or similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through
> the hole. Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if
> you fold the wire back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets
> easier with practice. Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the
> wires exit the shield. I think there's an EAA video on this method.
>>
>> Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the
>> trim servo wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim
>> servo wire handle things adequately or is it even a concern?
>>
> As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The
> equipment manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the
> shield(s) at one or both ends.
> Linn
>
>> Inquiring minds need to know
>>
>> Les
>>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: What's that sound...... |
Congratulations Eric!
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328156#328156
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The way I understand it--Andair's site doesn't really say much about
them--we go ahead and install the stock Vans flanges and the andair flange
is pro-sealed into that flange???? Has the smaller opening presented any
issues as far as fuel nozzles being too big to fit in?
Thanks again,
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
>
> I bought the Andair locking caps. I think $80 each. As it is true of all
> their products; cost more but high quality. Make sure you ask for a common
> key though.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 3:50 PM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the
>> curvature with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about
>> an hour or so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum
>> alloy...don't have any idea, but they will get very hot while sanding so
>> keep some water handy and good leather gloves. You'll like them once done
>> with sanding/installation.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
>> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
>> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
It is designed as a retrofit. You just remove your cap, leave the flange in and
drop Andair's flange into the neck with pro seal. It fits flush and perfect.
Do not archive.
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 23, 2011, at 9:04 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net> wrote:
>
> The way I understand it--Andair's site doesn't really say much about them--we
go ahead and install the stock Vans flanges and the andair flange is pro-sealed
into that flange???? Has the smaller opening presented any issues as far as
fuel nozzles being too big to fit in?
>
> Thanks again,
> Bill
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 7:51 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
>
>>
>> I bought the Andair locking caps. I think $80 each. As it is true of all their
products; cost more but high quality. Make sure you ask for a common key though.
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jan 23, 2011, at 3:50 PM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the curvature
with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about an hour or
so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum alloy...don't have any idea,
but they will get very hot while sanding so keep some water handy and good
leather gloves. You'll like them once done with sanding/installation.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
>>> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
>>> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
Video from SnF 2009 when they introduced the cap.
http://www.aviationage.com/Andair_Locking_Fuel_Cap.html
Many reports on VAF about fuel leaking through the keyhole. Could save you
if the main vent gets plugged but who wants fuel on their wings if one can
avoid:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56744
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kermanj
*Sent:* Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:32 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
It is designed as a retrofit. You just remove your cap, leave the flange in
and drop Andair's flange into the neck with pro seal. It fits flush and
perfect.
Do not archive.
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 23, 2011, at 9:04 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
wrote:
>
> The way I understand it--Andair's site doesn't really say much about
them--we go ahead and install the stock Vans flanges and the andair flange
is pro-sealed into that flange???? Has the smaller opening presented any
issues as far as fuel nozzles being too big to fit in?
>
> Thanks again,
> Bill
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 7:51 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
>
>>
>> I bought the Andair locking caps. I think $80 each. As it is true of all
their products; cost more but high quality. Make sure you ask for a common
key though.
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jan 23, 2011, at 3:50 PM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the
curvature with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about an
hour or so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum alloy...don't
have any idea, but they will get very hot while sanding so keep some water
handy and good leather gloves. You'll like them once done with
sanding/installation.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
>>> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
>>> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have the Andair, they fit beautifully and are a breeze on and off. I
also can confirm that they will leak through the keyhole if the tanks
are filled to the brim. I've found that if I fill them 1/4" shy of the
bottom of the filler neck flange, they are just fine. I suppose I loose
a couple cups of fuel capacity, but flying out of the busiest GA airport
in the world, the difference is probably less that the fuel used in
taxi/ramp/runup time. I never cut my fuel planning that close anyway.
Deems
On 1/23/2011 9:55 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Video from SnF 2009 when they introduced the cap.
>
> http://www.aviationage.com/Andair_Locking_Fuel_Cap.html
>
> Many reports on VAF about fuel leaking through the keyhole. Could save
> you if the main vent gets plugged but who wants fuel on their wings if
> one can avoid:
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56744
>
> Robin
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kermanj
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:32 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
>
> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>>
>
> It is designed as a retrofit. You just remove your cap, leave the
> flange in and drop Andair's flange into the neck with pro seal. It
> fits flush and perfect.
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 9:04 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net
> <mailto:william@gbta.net>> wrote:
>
> <william@gbta.net <mailto:william@gbta.net>>
> >
> > The way I understand it--Andair's site doesn't really say much about
> them--we go ahead and install the stock Vans flanges and the andair
> flange is pro-sealed into that flange???? Has the smaller opening
> presented any issues as far as fuel nozzles being too big to fit in?
> >
> > Thanks again,
> > Bill
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------
> > From: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 7:51 PM
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps
> >
> <mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>>
> >>
> >> I bought the Andair locking caps. I think $80 each. As it is true
> of all their products; cost more but high quality. Make sure you ask
> for a common key though.
> >>
> >> Do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >> On Jan 23, 2011, at 3:50 PM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com
> <mailto:wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>> wrote:
> >>
> <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com <mailto:wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>>
> >>>
> >>> I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten
> the curvature with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It
> takes about an hour or so for both. They are made of a VERY hard
> aluminum alloy...don't have any idea, but they will get very hot while
> sanding so keep some water handy and good leather gloves. You'll like
> them once done with sanding/installation.
> >>>
> >>> --------
> >>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> >>> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> >>> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Read this topic online here:
> >>>
> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> List Un/Subscription,
> //www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> =======================
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 10.0.119
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Deems Davis
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: What's that sound...... |
Sweet! Congrats... just did mine, too.
-Rob
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 4:16 PM, Eric_Kallio <scout019@msn.com> wrote:
>
> .....It's the sound of my engine roaring to life. Had to adjust the timing
> from the manufacturer, but the engine cranked and ran like a champ. What a
> pretty sound. The DAR was through today and told me to go ahead and button
> it all up. Inspection is essentially over, but he wants to see it in flight
> ready condition and to see me at least taxi it before handing over the
> airworthiness certificate. Although even he said that isn't a requirement it
> is something he likes to see. The end is near, and so is the first flight.
>
> Eric Kallio
> N518RV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328111#328111
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | First engine start |
Well, it runs. Lessons learned:
- Use a checklist. For some reason, I decided that because I wasn't
going flying, I didn't need to use a checklist. Well, after twice trying to
get the engine to start, I realized I should probably turn on the ignition
switches. Also, after doing a complete ground run (including a minute or so
at high RPM to cycle the prop), I realized I had the Lightspeed breaker
pulled (the other side is a mag). I thought it sounded a little rough, but
thought it could be the preservative oil on the cylinders or something
else. Inexcusable, really, to not have all this stuff checked out ahead of
time. On the plus side, I was surprised how well it ran on just one mag.
- Be sure of the tachometer setting on the EMS before starting. I
thought it should be 3, turns out it's 1.5 (for the Dynon on the p-lead), so
I was getting 1/2 the actual RPM displayed. This, combined with the rougher
running, caused me to run a little faster than I'd have liked. CHTs maxed
out at around 300, so thinking I'm probably okay.
- Had a flame shoot out of the exhaust when I turned off the mag (to do
the "mag check", before I realized the Lightspeed was off). Guessing this
is the unburned fuel/air mixture in the exhaust.
It was far from the perfect first engine start I'd hoped for, but I'll take
it, given everything else works.
-Robi
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|