Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:50 AM - ACK E-04 ELT (Tim Olson)
2. 07:04 AM - Re: ACK E-04 ELT (Seano)
3. 07:25 AM - Doors redux (Kelly McMullen)
4. 08:25 AM - Re: Doors redux (Pascal)
5. 08:28 AM - Re: Another official flying RV10 (John J)
6. 08:41 AM - Re: Doors redux (Sean Stephens)
7. 08:41 AM - Re: Doors redux (Rob Kochman)
8. 09:06 AM - Re: Doors redux (Seano)
9. 10:46 AM - pictures of access panels (Tom Hanaway)
10. 11:02 AM - Re: pictures of access panels (David Maib)
11. 11:10 AM - Re: pictures of access panels (Tom Hanaway)
12. 12:37 PM - Re: ACK E-04 ELT (johngoodman)
13. 12:49 PM - Re: Doors redux (Kelly McMullen)
14. 12:51 PM - Re: Doors redux (Kelly McMullen)
15. 01:07 PM - Re: Doors redux (Seano)
16. 01:56 PM - NAV/COM/GS Antenna (John MacCallum)
17. 02:05 PM - Re: Doors redux (Bob Condrey)
18. 02:16 PM - Re: Another official flying RV10 (Patrick Pulis)
19. 02:26 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (pilotdds)
20. 02:26 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Stein Bruch)
21. 02:27 PM - Baggage Door Removal (Patrick Pulis)
22. 02:27 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Ralph E. Capen)
23. 02:56 PM - Re: Baggage Door Removal (Rene Felker)
24. 02:56 PM - Re: Doors redux (bcondrey)
25. 03:03 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Linn Walters)
26. 04:09 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Thane States)
27. 04:15 PM - Re: Baggage Door Removal (John Cox)
28. 05:44 PM - Re: Baggage Door Removal (Robin Marks)
29. 06:10 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Strasnuts)
30. 06:24 PM - Re: Doors redux (Kelly McMullen)
31. 06:25 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Kelly McMullen)
32. 07:26 PM - Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna (Rick Lark)
33. 07:34 PM - Re: Doors redux (Bob Condrey)
34. 07:39 PM - Re: Baggage Door Removal (Kelly McMullen)
35. 08:33 PM - NAV/COM/GS Antenna (John MacCallum)
Message 1
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For those who don't follow their website closely, it looks like
they have almost overcome the paperwork hurdle. They now hope
to be actually shipping by the end of Feb.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: ACK E-04 ELT |
2011? Or 2012? ;)
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 26, 2011, at 7:45, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> For those who don't follow their website closely, it looks like
> they have almost overcome the paperwork hurdle. They now hope
> to be actually shipping by the end of Feb.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
be appreciated.
Kelly
#40866
allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
Message 4
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If I was building my doors, with what I know now, I would put a minimum of
2-3 layers of fiberglass MAT around the inside of the doors so they weren't
so flimsy. That wont take too much space to do.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 7:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Doors redux
I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
be appreciated.
Kelly
#40866
allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Another official flying RV10 |
Congratulations!
Message 6
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Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to
if the iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit.
I've heard of the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit,
but have yet to hear of them installed with a new 180 degree kit.
Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit?
-Sean (the other Sean) #40303
On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
> be appreciated.
> Kelly
> #40866
> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
>
>
Message 7
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In addition to the latches, I'd make sure you figure out what you're doing
for door locks (if anything) before gluing the doors.
-Rob
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 8:18 AM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> If I was building my doors, with what I know now, I would put a minimum of
> 2-3 layers of fiberglass MAT around the inside of the doors so they weren't
> so flimsy. That wont take too much space to do.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 7:05 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Doors redux
>
>
>
> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
> be appreciated.
> Kelly
> #40866
> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 8
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Sean, you are correct. I have shipped 180 kits for customers that installed the
flush handles and later they returned the extra racks. The flush handle is the
limiting factor. My 180 and 90 gearboxes are identical and can travel over
two inches. The cost difference is the expensive rack gears needed for retrofit
180's where the new 180's use the uncut vans racks supplied in the kit.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:29, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>
> Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if the
iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of
the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear of
them installed with a new 180 degree kit.
>
> Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit?
>
> -Sean (the other Sean) #40303
>
> On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>>
>> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
>> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
>> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
>> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
>> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
>> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
>> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
>> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
>> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
>> be appreciated.
>> Kelly
>> #40866
>> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | pictures of access panels |
David,
Nice talking with you. Please send any pictures you might find of your
access panel install.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
561-702-5456
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: pictures of access panels |
Here are the best photo's I have, Tom.
Best regards,
David Maib
612-202-6309
On Jan 26, 2011, at 1:38 PM, Tom Hanaway wrote:
> <tomhanaway@comcast.net>
>
>
> David,
> Nice talking with you. Please send any pictures you might find of
> your
> access panel install.
>
> Tom Hanaway
> Boynton Beach, FL
> 561-702-5456
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | pictures of access panels |
Sorry,
Mean't to be private.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hanaway
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: pictures of access panels
David,
Nice talking with you. Please send any pictures you might find of your
access panel install.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
561-702-5456
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: ACK E-04 ELT |
I've been told to expect mine in March... for what it's worth.
John
--------
#40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328590#328590
Message 13
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Are you saying to add glass to the areas where the bond occurs, or to
the areas that don't bond together? Is your concern stiffness vs
flexing or???
While aluminum formed doors are relatively strong on production
aircraft, they also can be called flimsy as they aren't hard to bend
and have minimal wt. I don't think that any amount of glass will turn
the doors into the equivalent of a Mercedes door, gullwing or not.
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:18 AM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> If I was building my doors, with what I know now, I would put a minimum of
> 2-3 layers of fiberglass MAT around the inside of the doors so they weren't
> so flimsy. That wont take too much space to do.
Message 14
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Let me try to understand. The flush handles simply cannot rotate a
full 180, so 90 degree install is the only thing that works? Or that
if the racks are not yet cut(mine are not) the 180 is possible? It
isn't a deal breaker for me if 90 is all that is possible.
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:56 AM, Seano <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>
> Sean, you are correct. I have shipped 180 kits for customers that installed the
flush handles and later they returned the extra racks. The flush handle is
the limiting factor. My 180 and 90 gearboxes are identical and can travel over
two inches. The cost difference is the expensive rack gears needed for retrofit
180's where the new 180's use the uncut vans racks supplied in the kit.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:29, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if the
iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of
the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear of
them installed with a new 180 degree kit.
>>
>> Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit?
>>
>> -Sean (the other Sean) #40303
>>
>> On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
>>> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
>>> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
>>> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
>>> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
>>> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
>>> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
>>> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
>>> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
>>> be appreciated.
>>> Kelly
>>> #40866
>>> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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The 180 new or the 90 will work on your stock vans handle with your uncut gear
racks. The 90 and the 180 retro work on cut gear racks per vans instructions.
Only the 90 will work on the flush handles. If the flush handles turn 90 - 130
degrees you can still use the 90 kit. The difference between the 90 and the 180
new is the supplied guides for the 180 kit. They are needed since the pushrods
can be timed to retract into the door about 3/4 inch and allow the cam to
fully engage before the pins come out the door. The guides prevent the pushrods
from falling into the door structure. You can also time the 90 degree kit to
pull before the pins come out but the more rotation over 90 the better.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 26, 2011, at 13:30, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Let me try to understand. The flush handles simply cannot rotate a
> full 180, so 90 degree install is the only thing that works? Or that
> if the racks are not yet cut(mine are not) the 180 is possible? It
> isn't a deal breaker for me if 90 is all that is possible.
>
> On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:56 AM, Seano <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>>
>> Sean, you are correct. I have shipped 180 kits for customers that installed
the flush handles and later they returned the extra racks. The flush handle is
the limiting factor. My 180 and 90 gearboxes are identical and can travel over
two inches. The cost difference is the expensive rack gears needed for retrofit
180's where the new 180's use the uncut vans racks supplied in the kit.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:29, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if
the iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of
the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear
of them installed with a new 180 degree kit.
>>>
>>> Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit?
>>>
>>> -Sean (the other Sean) #40303
>>>
>>> On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door
>>>> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge
>>>> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch
>>>> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door
>>>> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications
>>>> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want
>>>> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with
>>>> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room
>>>> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would
>>>> be appreciated.
>>>> Kelly
>>>> #40866
>>>> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
G'day all,
I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS
but I have discovered that it won't fit.
The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into
the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
Cheers
John MacCallum
Builder 41016
Rydal NSW Australia
Message 17
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The flush handles from iflyrv10.com actually are installed on the aft part
of the door. They are attached to the stock mechanism with a "saddle" that
attaches to the long pushrod. There's an arm that is connected from the
saddle to the actual flush handle mechanism. The limitation is that the arm
has limited ability to transfer the horizontal motion to the handle where it
attaches to an "ear" of a circular piece. The 90 (110?) degree version of
Sean's latch works because it isn't really changing the amount motion on the
horizontal tube. If the 180 degree version adds travel to the horizontal
rod then it isn't mechanically compatible. Probably would work you just
wouldn't get the extra travel for the rod.
Clear as mud?
Bob
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 2:30 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Let me try to understand. The flush handles simply cannot rotate a
> full 180, so 90 degree install is the only thing that works? Or that
> if the racks are not yet cut(mine are not) the 180 is possible? It
> isn't a deal breaker for me if 90 is all that is possible.
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Another official flying RV10 |
Well done mate.=0A=0AWishing you safe skies always.=0A=0APat=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: Byron&Donya <bgill1@charter.net>
=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, 26 January, 2011 12:56:54 PM=0A
Subject: RV10-List: Another official flying RV10=0A=0AFor those keeping tra
ck, another joins the flying ranks. I posted on the=0AVan's first flight pa
ge and thought I would post here as well. Although I=0Adon't post much, I f
ollow the posts daily and appreciate the wealth of=0Aknowledge. Thanks to a
ll who have gone before me! =0A=0A=0AI am pleased to announce that N253RV m
ade its first flight with=0AOwner/Builder on board Sunday evening Jan 22, 2
011 out of KDQH (Douglas,=0AGA). The flight was very un-eventful - as I had
hoped it would be. The=0Aactual first flight (test pilot in command) uncov
ered an electronic ignition=0Atiming issue (builder induced) that generated
high engine temps. This now=0Aresolved - things are looking great.=0A=0ATh
e aircraft is powered by a first time rebuild IO540 (LightSpeed electronic
=0Aign. + Magneto) with the Hartzell constant speed prop. The panel centers
=0Aaround a twin Chelton EFIS, AF3400 Engine Monitor, PMA8000 Audio, TruTra
k=0ADigiflight II A/P, and Garmin SL30/40 nav/coms.- Panel by Stein Aircr
aft and=0Ainterior by Flightline interiors. The frame was quick build wings
and all=0Aelse standard. The total projects weighed in at 1698# w/o paint.
=0A=0AI would like to thank a few folks: My wife and riveter Donya who has
named=0Athe plane "The Mistress". Stein who really came through with a beau
tiful=0Apanel in the midst of the D2A fiasco.- Vic Syracuse - DAR and ini
tial test=0Apilot, and David Maib who provided some additional last minute
transitional=0Astick time, and the whole group of folks on the RV-10 Matron
ics list.=0AThanks to all!=0A=0AByron Gillespie=0A[bgill1 at charter.net]
=0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
I did the same thing but enlarged the area with a little glass work to make
it fit and pointed the v forward to clear the rudder-glass/composite is me
ssy but very forgiving-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: John MacCallum <vk2gcn@cirruscomms.com.au>
Sent: Wed, Jan 26, 2011 1:56 pm
Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
G=99day all,
I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS
but I have discovered that it won=99t fit.
The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into
the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
Cheers
John MacCallum
Builder 41016
Rydal NSW Australia
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Message 20
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| Subject: | NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
All of them have pucks that are fairly good sized. Simply carve out a
little bit of the fairing, paint it to match the plane and you'll never
notice. Alternatively, you could mount it on the bottom of the plane under
the tail as well. Either solution seems to be relatively popular amongst
RV-10's that I've seen.
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John MacCallum
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 3:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
G'day all,
I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS
but I have discovered that it won't fit.
The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into
the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
Cheers
John MacCallum
Builder 41016
Rydal NSW Australia
Message 21
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Removal |
I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying t
he =0Abaggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction.
=0A-=0AI would appreciate any feedback to determine if-this is warrante
d, or if the =0Asimple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable remo
val of the door.=0A-=0AFor those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'b
uilders of better mouse traps' =0Aout there, who have modified their-bagg
age door installation to allow removal (a =0Ala nut plates or the like), wi
th other than removal of the hinge pin, I would =0Aappreciate any feedback
or photographs of how you did it please.=0A-=0AKind regards from a warm d
own-under.=0A-=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
I have a comant CI-182 installed on my VS under the fiberglass fairing
on my RV6A. I don't know if you can still get one - and how the
counterweights will affect the installation.
Hope these tell enough of the story.
----- Original Message -----
From: John MacCallum
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
G'day all,
I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on
my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit.
The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit
into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
Cheers
John MacCallum
Builder 41016
Rydal NSW Australia
Message 23
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Removal |
I used the stock method and have not regretted it. The door opens very wide
with the stock high config, so I really have not had a need to remove it.
During my annuals (condition inspection) I remove it, but other than that I
have not had a need to do it.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 3:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal
I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying
the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction.
I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or if the
simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of the door.
For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better mouse
traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door installation to allow
removal (a la nut plates or the like), with other than removal of the hinge
pin, I would appreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it
please.
Kind regards from a warm down-under.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 24
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In the interest of clarity...
If you go to Steve's website (www.iflyrv10.com), click "Enter Store" you'll be taken to a bunch of pictures of his products. The flush handles are the upper left item. If you then click the "more info" button for the handles you'll see several pictures. The upper left shows the components and you can clearly see the attach mechanism parts. The second picture to the right shows the handle assembly and you can see the ears sticking out that the arm attaches to. Finally, the second picture on the second row shows the mechanism installed in a door. You can see the saddle on the aft horizontal rod and the arm attached to that. It's hard to see in the picture but the ears on the handle are oriented vertically. As the rod moves aft the arm causes the handle mechanism to rotate counter-clockwise. When the rod is fully aft the side of the arm is almost in contact with the body of the handle. If additional travel is added to the rod (to push the rod/pins further into the door jam) it will bind on the handle housing. It's been a while but I think that the internal mechanism on the flush handles also prevents any additional travel in the other direction. The amount of travel is essentially built in to the flush handles so that the rod can move the standard amount and the actual outer handle doesn't move.
There's been enough chatter on this that I thought I'd post this for those pondering
the situation. The handles work fine in a stock install with or without
Sean's center latch (which is a huge safety improvement). If you do combine
them with Sean's latch you just won't be able to use the 180 degree version.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328611#328611
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
If it's the antenna with the round 'hockey puck', most of the
installations on 'certified' aircraft don't fit! Well, that is until
they relieve a slot so that the hockey puck sits a little outside.
Linn
On 1/26/2011 4:53 PM, John MacCallum wrote:
>
> G'day all,
>
> I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on
> my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit.
>
> The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit
> into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
>
> Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
>
> Cheers
>
> John MacCallum
>
> Builder 41016
>
> Rydal NSW Australia
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
I have that combo on my 10. I just carefully trimmed back the insulator
on the sides a little and it fits fine, and works great, spot on. Just
make sure it clears the rudder as it deflects full each way. I had to
bend the whiskers out a little. I also mounted it on the front top of
the VS, and the tip fairing fits around it.
Thane
----- Original Message -----
From: John MacCallum
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
G'day all,
I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on
my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit.
The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit
into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
Cheers
John MacCallum
Builder 41016
Rydal NSW Australia
Message 27
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Removal |
Yes. The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy
removal of the door and ease of maintenance. It provides a means to
change the door from a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional
compound curve if you wanted to get crazy. The "C" style hinge can also
allow a greater range of hinged movement.
For most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind".
I thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to
reinstall the pin at the end of your journey.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal
I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and
modifying the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin
extraction.
I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or if
the simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of
the door.
For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better
mouse traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door
installation to allow removal (a la nut plates or the like), with other
than removal of the hinge pin, I would appreciate any feedback or
photographs of how you did it please.
Kind regards from a warm down-under.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 28
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Removal |
Simple solution to build as plans intend and still remove the door with no
effort. Very common in the RV world.
Photo attached,
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Cox
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:12 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal
Yes. The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy
removal of the door and ease of maintenance. It provides a means to change
the door from a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional compound curve
if you wanted to get crazy. The "C" style hinge can also allow a greater
range of hinged movement.
For most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind".
I thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to
reinstall the pin at the end of your journey.
John Cox
------------------------------
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Pulis
*Sent:* Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal
I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying
the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction.
I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or if the
simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of the door.
For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better mouse
traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door installation to allow
removal (a la nut plates or the like), with other than removal of the hinge
pin, I would appreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it
please.
Kind regards from a warm down-under.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
* *
* *
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*href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
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*href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com*
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Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
Here are some pics of my install. I just made a plate with nutplates and blind
riveted it on the top of the VS rib and sealed with proseal. I cut it to drop
the plate in and cleared a spot for the nutplates. No interference problems
with the whiskers and no extra fiberglass work.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328631#328631
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cw1_133.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cw_472.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cat_whisker_624.jpg
Message 30
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Clearer than the OSH mud of this year. ;-))
Thanks Bob. I might survive this phase yet.
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 3:01 PM, Bob Condrey <condreyb@gmail.com> wrote:
> The flush handles from iflyrv10.com actually are installed on the aft part
> of the door. They are attached to the stock mechanism with a "saddle" that
> attaches to the long pushrod. .
>
> Clear as mud?
>
> Bob
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
I'm confused. The CI-121 is a single rod Com antenna. Could you mean
the CI-212 that does look like it has a fat center section?
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 5:04 PM, Thane States <thane2@comporium.net> wrote:
> I have that combo on my 10. I just carefully trimmed back the insulator on
> the sides a little and it fits fine, and works great, spot on. Just make
> sure it clears the rudder as it deflects full each way. I had to bend the
> whiskers out a little. I also mounted it on the front top of the VS, and the
> tip fairing fits around it.
> Thane
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John MacCallum
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
>
> Gday all,
>
> I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS
> but I have discovered that it wont fit.
>
> The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into
> the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
>
> Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> John MacCallum
>
> Builder 41016
>
>
> Rydal NSW Australia
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
> =
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
John,=C2- I bought a CI 157P antenna which had been installed/mounted und
er the =0Atail, and is now removed as I'm=C2-working on the slow build wi
ngs at present.=0A=0ARick=0A#40956=0ASouthampton, Ont=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______
_________________________=0AFrom: John MacCallum <vk2gcn@cirruscomms.com.au
>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, January 26, 2011 4:53:32 PM=0A
Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna=0A=0A=0AG=99day all,=0AI bough
t a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but =0A
=C2-I have discovered that it won=99t fit.=0AThe diameter of the mo
unting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the =0AFibreglass Fair
ing on top of the VS.=0AWhich V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
=0A=C2-=0ACheers=0A=C2-=0AJohn MacCallum=0ABuilder 41016 =0A=C2-=0AR
=================== =0A=0A=0A
Message 33
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And I'd already blocked that out of my mind...
On Wednesday, January 26, 2011, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Clearer than the OSH mud of this year. ;-))
> Thanks Bob. I might survive this phase yet.
>
> On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 3:01 PM, Bob Condrey <condreyb@gmail.com> wrote:
>> The flush handles from iflyrv10.com actually are installed on the aft part
>> of the door. They are attached to the stock mechanism with a "saddle" that
>> attaches to the long pushrod. .
>>
>> Clear as mud?
>>
>> Bob
>
>
>'
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Removal |
I haven't finished my install yet, but replaced the hinge rivets on the
door frame with #4 Clickbond nut plates and will use countersunk #4
stainless screws. Yes, a little pricey at around $2.10 a nutplate, but
very easy to do with almost no time to install with no extra holes that
conventional nutplates need.
On 1/26/2011 5:12 PM, John Cox wrote:
> Yes. The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy
> removal of the door and ease of maintenance. It provides a means to
> change the door from a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional
> compound curve if you wanted to get crazy. The "C" style hinge can
> also allow a greater range of hinged movement.
> For most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind".
> I thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to
> reinstall the pin at the end of your journey.
> John Cox
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Pulis
> *Sent:* Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal
>
> I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and
> modifying the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin
> extraction.
>
> I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or
> if the simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal
> of the door.
>
> For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better
> mouse traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door
> installation to allow removal (a la nut plates or the like), with
> other than removal of the hinge pin, I would appreciate any feedback
> or photographs of how you did it please.
>
> Kind regards from a warm down-under.
>
> Patrick Pulis
>
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
> *
>
> ==========
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 35
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| Subject: | NAV/COM/GS Antenna |
Um yes ,
Sorry I had the 121 box sitting here next to me and I thought it was the V
dipole.
So it is a CI-215.
Cheers
John Mac
Builder 41016
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, 27 January 2011 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
I'm confused. The CI-121 is a single rod Com antenna. Could you mean
the CI-212 that does look like it has a fat center section?
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 5:04 PM, Thane States <thane2@comporium.net> wrote:
> I have that combo on my 10. I just carefully trimmed back the insulator
on
> the sides a little and it fits fine, and works great, spot on. Just make
> sure it clears the rudder as it deflects full each way. I had to bend the
> whiskers out a little. I also mounted it on the front top of the VS, and
the
> tip fairing fits around it.
> Thane
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John MacCallum
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
>
> Gday all,
>
> I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS
> but I have discovered that it wont fit.
>
> The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into
> the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS.
>
> Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> John MacCallum
>
> Builder 41016
>
>
> Rydal NSW Australia
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
> =
>
>
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