Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:38 AM - Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question (Bob Leffler)
2. 05:00 AM - Duckwork HID lights (ospreysammy)
3. 05:17 AM - Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question (Kelly McMullen)
4. 06:27 AM - defroster/defog (pilotdds)
5. 06:44 AM - Re: defroster/defog (Rene)
6. 07:09 AM - Re: defroster/defog (Tim Olson)
7. 09:21 AM - Re: Duckwork HID lights (Robin Marks)
8. 09:27 AM - Re: defroster/defog (Robin Marks)
9. 09:46 AM - Re: Duckwork HID lights (Tim Olson)
10. 09:51 AM - Re: defroster/defog (Tim Olson)
11. 01:30 PM - Re: defroster/defog (pilotdds)
12. 01:43 PM - Re: defroster/defog (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
13. 01:54 PM - Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question (Patrick Pulis)
14. 01:54 PM - Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question (Patrick Pulis)
15. 02:37 PM - Re: What it does look like if you collect your QB kit! (Michael Wellenzohn)
16. 02:38 PM - Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question (Bob Leffler)
17. 07:05 PM - Re: Duckwork HID lights (Rick Lark)
18. 07:15 PM - Re: defroster/defog (Tim Olson)
19. 07:24 PM - Re: Duckwork HID lights (Robin Marks)
20. 08:41 PM - Re: defroster/defog (Robin Marks)
21. 08:51 PM - Re: defroster/defog (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
22. 09:11 PM - Re: defroster/defog (Lenny Iszak)
Message 1
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Subject: | Section 46 - Engine Mount Question |
Rev 1 12/5/08 is the version that I have, which I received with my finish
kit this past spring.
I think you are confusing two different steps.
46-2 talks about how to fasten the mount to the firewall and all the
required hardware is included in the finish kit. I just performed this task
a couple weeks ago and the instructions are correct. There does appear to
be some "magic" to get all the holes to line up appropriately. There was a
thread about a month ago, which I can't remember if it was here or on VAF,
talking about this. My bottom holes didn't align perfectly, but the 3/16"
hole was within the circumference of the 3/8" hole. Fortunately, the motor
mount kept the bit from wandering using the 3/16" hole as the center.
The parts you are referencing in the fwf kit are for attaching the engine to
the mount. Two different tasks. These are used on page FF1-5. Here's a
snipet:
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 1:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question
Hi there guys, I'm at the point of installing my engine mount as per Section
46, page 46-2 (Drawing Revision 1) and I'd just like to clarify the hole
sizes and installation hardware for the engine mount please. I have amended
my drawings from Revision 0 to Revision 1, so i think that I have the
correct installation drawings for Section 46?
The instructions indicate to drill a 3/8" hole in the Firewall Assembly
common to the WD-1001-D1 Dyna-1 Engine Mount, I did this. The drawing also
makes reference to 6 x AN6-24 drilled bolts, which are used to attach the
engine mount to the Firewall Assembly.
In my firewall forward kit I have kit 'EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 Motor Mount
Bolt Kit' which appears to correspond to the hardware required to attach the
engine mount. This kit contains the following hardware:
4 x AN7-26 Drilled Bolt, 7/16"
4 x AN310-7 Nut, Castle, 7/16"
8 x AN960 -716 Washer
4 x MS24665 -283 Cotter Pin
The above kit appears to be totally different from the hardware specified in
the drawing, coupled with the fact that it is short 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4
washers and 2 cotter pins and the diameter of the bolts are 7/16" instead of
3/8"?
Have I missed a drawing revision guys?
I'm hoping that you might be able to clarify this for me as I'm a little
confused here.
Kind regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 2
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Subject: | Duckwork HID lights |
I am currently at the point of finishing up the outboard leading edges and I plan
on using the Duckworks HID landing light system. This has led me to two questions;
first since they are so bright, is one in each wing needed or would one
in the left only work? I am thinking only using one would reduce weight, complexity,
electrical load but would add asymmetry. Second question is, do I need
to wait to rivet the outboard rib until the light kit is done? I looked through
Tim's outstanding writeup of his installation (thank you Tim) and it seems
it may be easier to do the light kit with that outboard rib removable. Any insight
from experience would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328966#328966
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question |
The bolts you want are in the finish kit, I just got mine out
yesterday...bag 1522
On Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 11:11 PM, Patrick Pulis
<rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
> Hi there guys, I'm at the point of installing my engine mount as per Section
> 46, page 46-2 (Drawing Revision 1)and I'd just like to clarify the hole
> sizes and installation hardware for the engine mount please.I have amended
> my drawings from Revision 0 to Revision 1, so i think that I have the
> correct installation drawings for Section 46?
>
> The instructions indicate to drill a 3/8" hole in the Firewall Assembly
> common to the WD-1001-D1 Dyna-1 Engine Mount, I did this. The drawing also
> makes referenceto 6 x AN6-24 drilled bolts, which are used to attach the
> engine mount to the Firewall Assembly.
>
> In my firewall forward kit I have kit 'EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 Motor Mount
> Bolt Kit'which appears to correspond to the hardware required to attach the
> engine mount. This kit contains the following hardware:
>
> 4 x AN7-26 Drilled Bolt, 7/16"
> 4 x AN310-7 Nut, Castle, 7/16"
> 8 x AN960 -716 Washer
> 4 x MS24665 -283 Cotter Pin
>
> The above kit appears to be totally different from the hardware specified in
> the drawing, coupled with the fact that it is short 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4
> washers and 2 cotter pins and the diameter of the boltsare 7/16" instead of
> 3/8"?
>
> Have I missed a drawing revision guys?
>
> I'm hoping that you might be able to clarify this for me as I'm a little
> confused here.
>
> Kind regards
>
>
> Patrick Pulis
> RV-10 #40299
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
Message 4
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|
Does anybody flying have a schematic or a description on how they created a
defroster for the wind screen?
-========================
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-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
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Message 5
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|
I put two computer fans in the glare shield.live in Utah and have only had
to use them once, about a week ago, worked great.
They also help dissipate heat generated from the panel.
Sorry, no pictures.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: defroster/defog
Does anybody flying have a schematic or a description on how they created a
defroster for the wind screen?
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
This is something that I'd recommend for ALL builders to do, on all RV10's f
or heat dissipation reasons alone. It gets hot under there and your avionic
s will probably last longer and perform better if you keep it cool.
The other one is cutting the holes for the Duckworks lights. You don't have
to even use lights, but for resale and construction reasons I would recomme
nd that basically every builder cut the hole in each wing if they think ther
e will EVER be a chance they sell the plane. Most buyers would be used to s
eeing wing lights and they will want them, and cutting them later will wreck
the paint. So just cut them initially and then decide later what to put in
there. The wing is still the only location that doesn't come with some sor
t of compromise.
Tim
On Jan 30, 2011, at 8:41 AM, "Rene" <rene@felker.com> wrote:
> I put two computer fans in the glare shieldlive in Utah and have o
nly had to use them once, about a week ago, worked great.
>
>
>
> They also help dissipate heat generated from the panel.
>
>
>
> Sorry, no pictures.
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
> Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: defroster/defog
>
>
>
> Does anybody flying have a schematic or a description on how they created a
defroster for the wind screen?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Duckwork HID lights |
RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
Sam I am a big proponent of dual HID=92s and the Wig/Wag function. I have h
ad
sooooo many comments from tower controllers & commercial airlines on how
visible my -10 is in wig/wag mode that I would not minimize my lighting
situation. Furthermore I have each light set up at slightly different angle
s
so I get excellent coverage in most phases of landing/flair.
As far as electrical load I have dual G900X screens, Back Up Dynon D100,
dual 16 Watt Coms, plus the usual Transponder, Audio etc=85 and a lot of ot
her
odds & ends electronics and my 60A total never gets above something like 23
in flight including while running the HID=92s.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ospreysammy
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 4:58 AM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
I am currently at the point of finishing up the outboard leading edges and
I
plan on using the Duckworks HID landing light system. This has led me to tw
o
questions; first since they are so bright, is one in each wing needed or
would one in the left only work? I am thinking only using one would reduce
weight, complexity, electrical load but would add asymmetry. Second questio
n
is, do I need to wait to rivet the outboard rib until the light kit is done
?
I looked through Tim's outstanding writeup of his installation (thank you
Tim) and it seems it may be easier to do the light kit with that outboard
rib removable. Any insight from experience would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328966#328966
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 8
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|
In deciding what fan to place there I think I searched NewEgg.com for
various fan choices. I based my decision on Fan size and Fan CFM. I think I
settled on dual =93Tornado=94 fans as they put out significantly more CFM t
han
the standard fans. The down side to the Tornado fans is that they are loude
r
than standard computer fans but not nearly as loud as the big fan mounted
forward of the firewall so fan noise was not an concern to me.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rene
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 6:42 AM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RE: RV10-List: defroster/defog
I put two computer fans in the glare shield=85live in Utah and have only ha
d
to use them once, about a week ago, worked great.
They also help dissipate heat generated from the panel.
Sorry, no pictures.
Rene'
801-721-6080
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *pilotdds
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:16 AM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: defroster/defog
Does anybody flying have a schematic or a description on how they created a
defroster for the wind screen?
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
* *
* *
* *
*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
* *
*http://forums.matronics.com*
* *
*http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
* *
* *
* *
* *
===========*
===========*
===========*
===========*
* *
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
Sam, I posted this reply as part of a different thread today
when I was lazy and just had my iphone handy.
"The other one is cutting the holes for the Duckworks lights. You don't
have to even use lights, but for resale and construction reasons I would
recommend that basically every builder cut the hole in each wing if they
think there will EVER be a chance they sell the plane. Most buyers
would be used to seeing wing lights and they will want them, and cutting
them later will wreck the paint. So just cut them initially and then
decide later what to put in there. The wing is still the only location
that doesn't come with some sort of compromise."
I'll expand a bit now that I'm at my regular PC.
I would at LEAST cut the hole on the 2nd wing. Don't skip it and
then find out after the fact that you aren't 100% happy. You can
get OK lighting I'm sure with just 1, but 2 will give very good
even lighting and even if you only put in 1 for the first couple
years, I'd be prepared to put in a 2nd light. You'll be happier
later. It's a real simple install to cut the hole, and no
fiberglass involved.
Regarding power draw, the total draw is something like 3A per HID
for me after they start up. That's WAY less than normal landing
lights. My old plane had a single 20A light....and you could
go halogen for 10A. I can do 2 lights that are 3x as bright
as the single halogen, and still be at 2/3 the power draw. You
won't be disappointed in HIDs. There are some recent LED lights
that are starting to approach HID's in intensity, however they
are also starting to approach HID's for power draw as well, and
they cost more. Over time, we may see LED's be a good option
if the price decreases to the point where they are lower
than HID's for the same brightness.
With the holes cut, you could install even the mini lamps in
the wings if you wanted. You may not get the performance, but
at least the hole is cut.
My total panel draw with everything on, including all lights,
is under 40 or 42A. So no matter what you do, you're going
to have it better off than many previous aircraft had it.
Heck, I think my old Nav Lights had 7A bulbs in them...you
won't be needing that.
As for that outer rib, I don't know that it matters a lot
if you rivet it or not. I think you could go either
way. You're working in the outer bay of the wing, so
nothing is too hard to get at.
Tim
On 1/30/2011 6:58 AM, ospreysammy wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "ospreysammy"<helosammy@gmail.com>
>
> I am currently at the point of finishing up the outboard leading
> edges and I plan on using the Duckworks HID landing light system.
> This has led me to two questions; first since they are so bright, is
> one in each wing needed or would one in the left only work? I am
> thinking only using one would reduce weight, complexity, electrical
> load but would add asymmetry. Second question is, do I need to wait
> to rivet the outboard rib until the light kit is done? I looked
> through Tim's outstanding writeup of his installation (thank you Tim)
> and it seems it may be easier to do the light kit with that outboard
> rib removable. Any insight from experience would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -------- Sam Clark Builder # 40972
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328966#328966
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
Yeah, you won't hear either fan, once the engine is running. :)
I would get some that push some good CFM. My original attempt
was using a small fan...maybe 1.5" square...it sucked. Then I
went to some larger (maybe 60mm?) fans that do a pretty good
job. I bought some that blow pretty good. If I were starting
from scratch, I'd likely look at 80mm fans if they fit well.
On very cold days, until I get off the ground and heat
flowing good, I can still get some frost on the upper corners
of the windshield near the visors. Would be nice to have
just a bit more flow than what I have now, but at this point
it's acceptable for me.
I was shocked during my flyoff to look at my GRT EIS in the
panel and see that it was reading something like 110F, and
it was only 10-20F outside. With front heat coming out
under the panel, you're really going to want heat exhaustion
for the panel area YEAR ROUND. In the winter it'll do
defrost as a bonus. No need for fancy defrost circuits
added to your heater....just pump hot under-panel air up.
Tim
On 1/30/2011 11:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> In deciding what fan to place there I think I searched NewEgg.com for
> various fan choices. I based my decision on Fan size and Fan CFM. I
> think I settled on dual Tornado fans as they put out significantly
> more CFM than the standard fans. The down side to the Tornado fans is
> that they are louder than standard computer fans but not nearly as loud
> as the big fan mounted forward of the firewall so fan noise was not an
> concern to me.
>
> Robin
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Rene
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 6:42 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: defroster/defog
>
> I put two computer fans in the glare shieldlive in Utah and have only
> had to use them once, about a week ago, worked great.
>
> They also help dissipate heat generated from the panel.
>
> Sorry, no pictures.
>
> Rene'
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *pilotdds
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:16 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: defroster/defog
>
> Does anybody flying have a schematic or a description on how they
> created a defroster for the wind screen?
>
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> p://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> * *
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *===========*
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
>
> **
>
> Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
> *w.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1*
>
> ======================
>
> **
>
> m">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> ======================
>
> * *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 10.0.120
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
thanks you guys,you saved me a bunch of complicated ducting-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sun, Jan 30, 2011 9:51 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: defroster/defog
Yeah, you won't hear either fan, once the engine is running. :)
would get some that push some good CFM. My original attempt
as using a small fan...maybe 1.5" square...it sucked. Then I
ent to some larger (maybe 60mm?) fans that do a pretty good
ob. I bought some that blow pretty good. If I were starting
rom scratch, I'd likely look at 80mm fans if they fit well.
n very cold days, until I get off the ground and heat
lowing good, I can still get some frost on the upper corners
f the windshield near the visors. Would be nice to have
ust a bit more flow than what I have now, but at this point
t's acceptable for me.
I was shocked during my flyoff to look at my GRT EIS in the
anel and see that it was reading something like 110F, and
t was only 10-20F outside. With front heat coming out
nder the panel, you're really going to want heat exhaustion
or the panel area YEAR ROUND. In the winter it'll do
efrost as a bonus. No need for fancy defrost circuits
dded to your heater....just pump hot under-panel air up.
Tim
n 1/30/2011 11:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
In deciding what fan to place there I think I searched NewEgg.com for
various fan choices. I based my decision on Fan size and Fan CFM. I
think I settled on dual =9CTornado=9D fans as they put out sig
nificantly
more CFM than the standard fans. The down side to the Tornado fans is
that they are louder than standard computer fans but not nearly as loud
as the big fan mounted forward of the firewall so fan noise was not an
concern to me.
Robin
*From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Rene
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 6:42 AM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
*Subject:* RE: RV10-List: defroster/defog
I put two computer fans in the glare shieldlive in Utah and have
only
had to use them once, about a week ago, worked great.
They also help dissipate heat generated from the panel.
Sorry, no pictures.
Rene'
801-721-6080
*From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *pilotdds
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:16 AM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
*Subject:* RV10-List: defroster/defog
Does anybody flying have a schematic or a description on how they
created a defroster for the wind screen?
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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* *
* *
*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
* *
*http://forums.matronics.com*
* *
*http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
* *
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RV10-List Email Forum -
**
Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
*w.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V1*
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*http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
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Version: 10.0.120
*
*
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question |
Thanks for clarifying my confusion guys, must be the heat (+44C).=0A=0A=0A
=0AKind regards=0A=0APat=C2-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________________
__=0AFrom: Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Sun, 30 January, 2011 10:02:06 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Sectio
n 46 - Engine Mount Question=0A=0A=0ARev 1 12/5/08 is the version that I ha
ve, which I received with my finish kit =0Athis past spring.=0A=C2-=0AI t
hink you are confusing two different steps.=C2- =0A=C2-=0A46-2 talks ab
out how to fasten the mount to the firewall and all the required =0Ahardwar
e is included in the finish kit.=C2- I just performed this task a couple
=0Aweeks ago and the instructions are correct.=C2- There does appear to b
e some =0A=9Cmagic=9D to get all the holes to line up appropria
tely.=C2- There was a thread about =0Aa month ago, which I can=99t
remember if it was here or on VAF, talking about =0Athis.=C2- My bottom h
oles didn=99t align perfectly, but the 3/16=9D hole was within
the =0Acircumference of the 3/8=9D hole. Fortunately, the motor mount
kept the bit from =0Awandering using the 3/16=9D hole as the center.
=0A=C2-=0AThe parts you are referencing in the fwf kit are for attaching
the engine to the =0Amount.=C2- Two different tasks.=C2- These are used
on page FF1-5.=C2- Here=99s a snipet:=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0Abob=0A
=C2-=0AFrom:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv10-li
st-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis=0ASent: Sunday, January
30, 2011 1:11 AM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: RV10-List: Secti
on 46 - Engine Mount Question=0A=C2-=0AHi there guys, I'm at the point of
installing my engine mount as per Section 46, =0Apage 46-2 (Drawing Revisi
on 1)=C2-and I'd just like to clarify the hole sizes and =0Ainstallation
hardware for the engine mount please.=C2-=C2-I have amended my drawings
=0Afrom Revision 0 to Revision 1, so i think that I have the correct insta
llation =0Adrawings for Section 46?=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0AThe instructions in
dicate to drill a 3/8" hole in the Firewall Assembly common =0Ato the WD-10
01-D1 Dyna-1 Engine Mount, I did this.=C2- The drawing also makes =0Arefe
rence=C2-to 6 x AN6-24 drilled bolts, which are used to attach the engine
mount =0Ato the Firewall Assembly.=0A=C2-=0AIn my firewall forward kit I
have kit 'EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 Motor Mount Bolt =0AKit'=C2-which appear
s to correspond to the hardware required to attach the engine =0Amount.=C2
- This kit contains the following hardware:=0A=C2-=0A4 x AN7-26 Drilled
Bolt, 7/16"=0A4 x AN310-7 Nut, Castle, 7/16"=0A8 x AN960 -716 Washer=0A4 x
MS24665 -283 Cotter Pin=0A=C2-=0AThe above kit appears to be totally dif
ferent from the hardware specified in the =0Adrawing, coupled with the fact
that it is short 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4 washers and 2 =0Acotter pins and the d
iameter of the bolts=C2-are 7/16" instead of 3/8"?=0A=C2-=0AHave I miss
ed a drawing revision guys?=0A=C2-=0AI'm hoping that you might be able to
clarify this for me as I'm a little =0Aconfused here.=0A=C2-=0AKind rega
rds=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0APatrick Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299=0AAdelaide, S
outh Australia=0A=0A=C2-=0A=0A=C2- =0A =C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.
matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question |
Thanks Kelly.=0A=0AIs everyone drilling the 3/8" bolt holes in the firewall
in one hit or step =0Adrilling them?=0A=0AIts a very large step from the o
riginal hole to the 3/8" hole.- I'm stopping and =0Alubricating the drill
bit as I go, but is slow going for each hole.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APat=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@g
mail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, 30 January, 2011 11:44
:20 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Section 46 - Engine Mount Question=0A=0A--
bolts you want are in the finish kit, I just got mine out=0Ayesterday...bag
1522=0A=0AOn Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 11:11 PM, Patrick Pulis=0A<rv10free2fly@
yahoo.com.au> wrote:=0A> Hi there guys, I'm at the point of installing my e
ngine mount as per Section=0A> 46, page 46-2 (Drawing Revision 1)-and I'd
just like to clarify the hole=0A> sizes and installation hardware for the
engine mount please.--I have amended=0A> my drawings from Revision 0 to
Revision 1, so i think that I have the=0A> correct installation drawings f
or Section 46?=0A>=0A> The instructions indicate to drill a 3/8" hole in th
e Firewall Assembly=0A> common to the WD-1001-D1 Dyna-1 Engine Mount, I did
this.- The drawing also=0A> makes reference-to 6 x AN6-24 drilled bolt
s, which are used to attach the=0A> engine mount to the Firewall Assembly.
=0A>=0A> In my firewall forward kit I have kit 'EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 Motor
Mount=0A> Bolt Kit'-which appears to correspond to the hardware required
to attach the=0A> engine mount.- This kit contains the following hardwar
e:=0A>=0A> 4 x AN7-26 Drilled Bolt, 7/16"=0A> 4 x AN310-7 Nut, Castle, 7/16
"=0A> 8 x AN960 -716 Washer=0A> 4 x MS24665 -283 Cotter Pin=0A>=0A> The abo
ve kit appears to be totally different from the hardware specified in=0A> t
he drawing, coupled with the fact that it is short 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4=0A> w
ashers and 2 cotter pins and the diameter of the bolts-are 7/16" instead
of=0A> 3/8"?=0A>=0A> Have I missed a drawing revision guys?=0A>=0A> I'm hop
ing that you might be able to clarify this for me as I'm a little=0A> confu
sed here.=0A>=0A> Kind regards=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Patrick Pulis=0A> RV-10 #402
-========================
============0A=0A=0A
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: What it does look like if you collect your QB kit! |
Hi Werner,
I know exactly how you feel. Have fun doing the inventory and good to see you having
a second XMas & birthday this year.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329019#329019
Message 16
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Subject: | Section 46 - Engine Mount Question |
Is everyone drilling the 3/8" bolt holes in the firewall in one hit or
step drilling them?
My bottom holes didn=99t align perfectly, but the 3/16=9D
hole was within the circumference of the 3/8=9D hole. Fortunately,
the motor mount kept the bit from wandering using the 3/16=9D hole
as the center.
You really need to drill these with the mount in place, so that
eliminates the step drill option. Like I mentioned previously, the
engine mount does a good job of keep the bit in place if the original
3/16=9D hole isn=99t quite centered.
We have the opposite problem at the moment. We=99re experiencing
a warm spell today of about 0 C :^) It=99s been 10-15 degrees
colder the last couple weeks.
bob
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
Sam, I've only bought and are about to install one-Duckworks light, for t
he left wing.- Having said that I don't like night flying and avoid it wh
en possible, so-I don't expect to use it a lot.- Also you can always-
install another after the aircraft is flying if you plan accordingly.- I
do know-one will be much brighter than the 2- lights in my Cessna Cardi
nal.
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Sun, 1/30/11, ospreysammy <helosammy@gmail.com> wrote:
From: ospreysammy <helosammy@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
Received: Sunday, January 30, 2011, 12:58 PM
I am currently at the point of finishing up the outboard leading edges and
I plan on using the Duckworks HID landing light system. This has led me to
two questions; first since they are so bright, is one in each wing needed o
r would one in the left only work? I am thinking only using one would reduc
e weight, complexity, electrical load but would add asymmetry. Second quest
ion is, do I need to wait to rivet the outboard rib until the light kit is
done? I looked through Tim's outstanding writeup of his installation (thank
you Tim) and it seems it may be easier to do the light kit with that outbo
ard rib removable. Any insight from experience would be appreciated. Thanks
in advance.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328966#328966
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
For those who couldn't view David's post, I've clipped out the text
below so you can see it. Looks like a great way to go if you can
find a good mounting for it. At $6, the price isn't bad at all.
My advice is that when you do find a fan you like, buy a couple
of spares for down the road. I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cracked
one on install. So I used a spare right away. Once the bearings
start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have
a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up.
Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard,
but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for
a match.
Tim
(See David's post below)
On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric for
the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need
to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the
avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are
quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and
headsets are on.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
N849RV (reserved)
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Duckwork HID lights |
Again with my Wig/Wag HID=92s I get noticed 7 miles out on approach in the
day
time. Dual flashing HID=92s may be one of the best safety vs. cost items on
your build. Seeing is avoiding.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Lark
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:03 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
Sam, I've only bought and are about to install one Duckworks light, for the
left wing. Having said that I don't like night flying and avoid it when
possible, so I don't expect to use it a lot. Also you can always install
another after the aircraft is flying if you plan accordingly. I do know on
e
will be much brighter than the 2 lights in my Cessna Cardinal.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On *Sun, 1/30/11, ospreysammy <helosammy@gmail.com>* wrote:
From: ospreysammy <helosammy@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
Received: Sunday, January 30, 2011, 12:58 PM
<helosammy@gmail.com<http://ca.mc1207.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=helosa
mmy@gmail.com>
>
I am currently at the point of finishing up the outboard leading edges and
I
plan on using the Duckworks HID landing light system. This has led me to tw
o
questions; first since they are so bright, is one in each wing needed or
would one in the left only work? I am thinking only using one would reduce
weight, complexity, electrical load but would add asymmetry. Second questio
n
is, do I need to wait to rivet the outboard rib until the light kit is done
?
I looked through Tim's outstanding writeup of his installation (thank you
Tim) and it seems it may be easier to do the light kit with that outboard
rib removable. Any insight from experience would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328966#328966
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
great content also available via the Web nbsp; -Matt
matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>
http://www.matronics.com/contri==============
=
* *
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------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 20
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Re: RV10-List: defroster/defog
Those fans are 23 CFM max. That is not a significant amount of air.
I think each of my 80 or 92 cm fans were above 100 CFM.
Here=92s an 80 mm fan with 84 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re=c
omputer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product
Here is a 92 mm with 90 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re=c
omputer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product
Heck here is a 120 mm with 240 CFM. YIKES!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re=c
omputer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product
Disclaimer: Please do your own research as I have not read the product
details in depth on any of these units.
Robin
Do Not Archive
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Olson
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:13 PM
*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: defroster/defog
For those who couldn't view David's post, I've clipped out the text
below so you can see it. Looks like a great way to go if you can
find a good mounting for it. At $6, the price isn't bad at all.
My advice is that when you do find a fan you like, buy a couple
of spares for down the road. I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cracked
one on install. So I used a spare right away. Once the bearings
start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have
a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up.
Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard,
but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for
a match.
Tim
(See David's post below)
On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric for
the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need
to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the
avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are
quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and
headsets are on.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
N849RV (reserved)
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
They push plenty of air. To each his own.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 11:37:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: defroster/defog
Re: RV10-List: defroster/defog
Those fans are 23 CFM max. That is not a significant amount of air.
I think each of my 80 or 92 cm fans were above 100 CFM.
Here=99s an 80 mm fan with 84 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re=c
omputer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product
Here is a 92 mm with 90 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re=c
omputer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product
Heck here is a 120 mm with 240 CFM. YIKES!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re=c
omputer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product
Disclaimer: Please do your own research as I have not read the product deta
ils in depth on any of these units.
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: defroster/defog
For those who couldn't view David's post, I've clipped out the text
below so you can see it. Looks like a great way to go if you can
find a good mounting for it. At $6, the price isn't bad at all.
My advice is that when you do find a fan you like, buy a couple
of spares for down the road. I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cracked
one on install. So I used a spare right away. Once the bearings
start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have
a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up.
Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard,
but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for
a match.
Tim
(See David's post below)
On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric for
the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need
to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the
avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are
quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and
headsets are on.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
N849RV (reservedNavigator to browse
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
========================
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
================
==
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
Robin,
One of them there needs its own alternator :)
By the way, i have a certified avionics fan and it pushes half the CFMs at twice
the amp draw of a computer fan... These things are amazing.
Lenny
[quote="robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com"]Those fans are 23 CFM max. That is not a significant
amount of air.
I think each of my 80 or 92 cm fans were above 100 CFM.
Heres an 80 mm fan with 84 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re=computer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re=computer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product)
Here is a 92 mm with 90 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re=computer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re=computer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product)
Heck here is a 120 mm with 240 CFM. YIKES!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re=computer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re=computer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product)
Disclaimer: Please do your own research as I have not read the product details
in depth on any of these units.
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: defroster/defog
For those who couldn't view David's post, I've clipped out the text
below so you can see it. Looks like a great way to go if you can
find a good mounting for it. At $6, the price isn't bad at all.
My advice is that when you do find a fan you like, buy a couple
of spares for down the road. I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cracked
one on install. So I used a spare right away. Once the bearings
start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have
a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up.
Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard,
but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for
a match.
Tim
(See David's post below)
On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) wrote:
>
>
> I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these
>
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric) for
the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need
to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the
avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are
quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and
headsets are on.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
N849RV (reservedNavigator to browse
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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