RV10-List Digest Archive

Mon 01/31/11


Total Messages Posted: 15



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:50 AM - Re: Re: AHRS Mount angle (Jesse Saint)
     2. 05:39 AM - Re: Re: AHRS Mount angle (DLM)
     3. 07:53 AM - Re: AHRS Mount angle (bcondrey)
     4. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: AHRS Mount angle (DLM)
     5. 08:58 AM - AHRS and magnatometer (DLM)
     6. 11:43 AM - Tank attach zees (Billy & Tami Britton)
     7. 12:03 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog (Rob Kochman)
     8. 12:05 PM - AFS fuel flow system display changes (Ralph E. Capen)
     9. 01:36 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog (Danny Riggs)
    10. 01:36 PM - Re: Tank attach zees (Ron B.)
    11. 02:57 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
    12. 04:26 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog Pictures (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
    13. 06:43 PM - Re: Duckwork HID lights (Eric_Kallio)
    14. 07:26 PM - Re: Tank attach zees (Rick Lark)
    15. 07:49 PM - Re: Re: Duckwork HID lights (Rick Lark)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:50:45 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: AHRS Mount angle
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    I didn't see any replies. I haven't done a lot with GRT, but with Dynon and AFS they are quite adamant about getting it as close as you possibly can. In my experience, if it also has a magnetometer in it, it is critical to have it as far away from ferrous metal, especially moving ferrous metal, as possible, but the angle of installation is supposedly very important. I haven't tried installing it other ways, but I'd try to get it as close as possible. If I remember correctly, mounting a 90-degree bracket onto the bulkhead gets it pretty darn close. do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Jan 29, 2011, at 3:25 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Any real world input? I'd also like to know the answer. > > The GRT instructions say to put the AHRS parallel to the longitudinal axis. But there is also a software adjustment to move the vertical bars up/down, "...just as in a conventional AI...". So I don't know how critical this is. > > By my measurement (same location, a shelf built off the longitudinal aluminum angles behind the battery) I will need to shim the forward end up by 0.15" for every 7" of length, which is 1.2 degrees. Anyone else get or use these numbers? > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328932#328932 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:39:16 AM PST US
    From: "DLM" <dlm34077@q.com>
    Subject: Re: AHRS Mount angle
    my backup is a GRT sport with integrated AHRS and external magnetometer. There is a slight error when mounting the Sport box in the panel but the pitch adjustment in the software solves that problem. My magnetometer is mounted on a shelf attached to the longeron in the tailcone. It is off centerline but parallel to the Crossbow AHRS on the centerline. BTW, the XBOW is shimmed to match the window sill angle. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com> Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 5:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle > > I didn't see any replies. I haven't done a lot with GRT, but with Dynon > and AFS they are quite adamant about getting it as close as you possibly > can. In my experience, if it also has a magnetometer in it, it is > critical to have it as far away from ferrous metal, especially moving > ferrous metal, as possible, but the angle of installation is supposedly > very important. I haven't tried installing it other ways, but I'd try to > get it as close as possible. If I remember correctly, mounting a > 90-degree bracket onto the bulkhead gets it pretty darn close. > > do not archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > On Jan 29, 2011, at 3:25 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > >> >> Any real world input? I'd also like to know the answer. >> >> The GRT instructions say to put the AHRS parallel to the longitudinal >> axis. But there is also a software adjustment to move the vertical bars >> up/down, "...just as in a conventional AI...". So I don't know how >> critical this is. >> >> By my measurement (same location, a shelf built off the longitudinal >> aluminum angles behind the battery) I will need to shim the forward end >> up by 0.15" for every 7" of length, which is 1.2 degrees. Anyone else get >> or use these numbers? >> >> -------- >> Bob Turner >> RV-10 QB >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328932#328932 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:53:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: AHRS Mount angle
    From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
    The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to consider. The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment. While you want it to be close in pitch as well, however there is a pitch offset adjustment in 1 degree increments. If you need to make minor adjustments after your mount is fabricated, shims can be used. Van's sells an AHRS mount that goes behind the baggage bulkhead that guarantees alignment and has attach holes prepunched for several different AHRS units. The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the yaw axis. Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone or outboard in a wingtip. There's an alignment procedure for the magnetometer that can take out some of the effects from nearby ferrous materials but keep in mind that battery contactors, autopilot servos and trim servos are all little electromagnets that will potentially cause problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found that the level of the longerons was unacceptable because of the battery contactor. I wound up putting it on a small shelf attached to the top J-channels. The center J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for alignment. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:56:47 AM PST US
    From: "DLM" <dlm34077@q.com>
    Subject: Re: AHRS Mount angle
    Since my install was in 2005 I established the plate on two angles across the longeron and then ran a fish line from the aft center of the tail cone to the front center of the tail cone. See before and after pictures ----- Original Message ----- From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com> Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 8:50 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle > > The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to > consider. The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment. While > you want it to be close in pitch as well, however there is a pitch offset > adjustment in 1 degree increments. If you need to make minor adjustments > after your mount is fabricated, shims can be used. Van's sells an AHRS > mount that goes behind the baggage bulkhead that guarantees alignment and > has attach holes prepunched for several different AHRS units. > > The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the yaw > axis. Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone or > outboard in a wingtip. There's an alignment procedure for the > magnetometer that can take out some of the effects from nearby ferrous > materials but keep in mind that battery contactors, autopilot servos and > trim servos are all little electromagnets that will potentially cause > problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found that the level of the > longerons was unacceptable because of the battery contactor. I wound up > putting it on a small shelf attached to the top J-channels. The center > J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for alignment. > > Bob > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076 > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:58:40 AM PST US
    From: "DLM" <dlm34077@q.com>
    Subject: AHRS and magnatometer
    one more picture.


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:43:47 AM PST US
    From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
    Subject: Tank attach zees
    On page 18-4 step 1 we are instructed to rivet the nutplates to the fuel tank attach zees (T-1012's). Do we need to final drill the bolt holes to a certain size or are they the correct size already? My holes have paint in them from priming so at the least, I need to run a bit through them to get the paint out. Can someone with unprimed Zee's tell me what size the hole is? Sorry if this should be common knowledge but I wanted to make sure. Thanks in advance, Bill


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:03:48 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: defroster/defog
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    I think my certified avionics fan converts most of its power into noise. I actually pulled the fuse on it and won't replace until right before first flight; otherwise, it's really annoying when I have the master switch on. -Rob On Sun, Jan 30, 2011 at 9:09 PM, Lenny Iszak <lenard@rapiddecision.com>wrot e: > > Robin, > > One of them there needs its own alternator :) > > By the way, i have a certified avionics fan and it pushes half the CFMs a t > twice the amp draw of a computer fan... These things are amazing. > > Lenny > > [quote="robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com"]Those fans are 23 CFM max. That is no t a > significant amount of air. > I think each of my 80 or 92 cm fans were above 100 CFM. > =EF=BD > Here=EF=BDs an 80 mm fan with 84 CFM > > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re =computer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product( > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re =computer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product > ) > =EF=BD > Here is a 92 mm with 90 CFM > > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re =computer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product( > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re =computer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product > ) > =EF=BD > Heck here is a 120 mm with 240 CFM. YIKES! > > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re =computer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product( > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re =computer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product > ) > =EF=BD > Disclaimer: Please do your own research as I have not read the product > details in depth on any of these units. > =EF=BD > Robin > Do Not Archive > =EF=BD > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com ( > owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com) [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.co m)] > On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:13 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com (rv10-list@matronics.com) > Subject: Re: defroster/defog > > > =EF=BD > > For those who couldn't view David's post, I've clipped out the text > below so you can see it.=EF=BD Looks like a great way to go if you ca n > find a good mounting for it.=EF=BD At $6, the price isn't bad at all. > My advice is that when you do find a fan you like, buy a couple > of spares for down the road.=EF=BD I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cra cked > one on install.=EF=BD So I used a spare right away.=EF=BD Once the bearings > start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have > a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up. > Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard, > but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for > a match. > > Tim > > (See David's post below) > > > On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net (davidsoutpost@comcast.ne t) > wrote: > > > > > > > I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these > > > > http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric ( > http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric) for > the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need > to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the > avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are > quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and > headsets are on. > > David Clifford > RV-10 Builder > N849RV (reservedNavigator to browse > ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis t > ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > ======================= > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com (http://www.avg.com) > Version: 10.0.120 > > > [b] > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329051#329051 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:05:37 PM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: AFS fuel flow system display changes
    First, I'll preface by saying that I really like the equipment that these folks have for our planes and their customer service is top-notch - and I am an outsider not related to the company other than as a customer. Not bashing anyone here - just trying to get an understanding of who this change impacts and how it impacts them. My configuration started as a 3400EM - I have since upgraded to 3400sSP configuration (new processor and screen in addition to six-pack display) to have a set of backup instruments. The upgrade also included a Beta software release to fix a couple of last minute bugs in my system. Here's the scoop: I have 19 gallons per side for main tanks and 9 gallons per side for tip tanks for a total capacity of 56 gallons, with them all filled, the system reports 56 gallons available. Previously, the "Fuel Used" display only showed that fuel that has flowed through the flow-meter. If I only fill the mains, the system shows 38 gallons available and zero used. As I ran the engine for my flight, the "Fuel Used" display would increase from Zero by showing only fuel flowed through the flow meter. Now, the "Fuel Used" display shows the fuel that has flowed through the flow-meter plus the unfilled tanks. If I only fill the mains, the system shows 38 gallons available and 18 gallons used. As I ran the engine for my flight, the "Fuel Used" display would increase from 18 while adding the fuel that has subsequently flowed through the flow-meter. Somewhere during the flight, if I look at the "Fuel Used" display, I note that what is reported is getting close to what I just put in.....18 gallons early. Good safety margin - but not what I was expecting. I have queried the folks at AFS about this - they respond that the change was made in the interest of safety and to reduce confusion. Yes, I could simply not look at the "Fuel Used" display and only look at the "Fuel Available" display and cross check that with my fuel guages and time calculations for flight endurance planning purposes. I also asked for an optional flowed-only mode or to allow the user the choice of calculation methods (they still have the old code and it simply would be a system setting). I know that I am not the only one having trouble with this change - AFS indicated that they have received multiple indications of concern. Anyone else out there think this is an "odd change"? How are you (planning to) accomodating this? I am planning to try ignoring the "Fuel Used" display and see how that works....with a plan B of having multiple configurations (with and without tip-tanks) that I can upluad when Iplan to fuel the tiptanks. I don't expect them to change it back - but they may provide options if enough folks ask for it. Or, am I being overly picky about something that shouldn't matter - in the big picture? Your opinions please, Ralph Capen


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:36:00 PM PST US
    From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: defroster/defog
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    Message 10


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    Time: 01:36:00 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Tank attach zees
    From: "Ron B." <cfxoa@klis.com>
    If I had a memory I'd be dangerous. While building I have charts to check sizing. I do believe a K-1000-3 is for an AN 3 bolt. An an 3 bolt requires a #12 bit , going by memory. The Avery tool catalog had this information listed in it on page 57 a few years back. I think it is also in the red book from Van's. I can find out for sure if no one helps out, I'll have to go to the hangar. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329113#329113


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:57:01 PM PST US
    From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: defroster/defog


    Message 12


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    Time: 04:26:37 PM PST US
    From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: defroster/defog Pictures
    David Clifford RV-10 Builder Howell, MI ----- Original Message ----- From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 5:46:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: defroster/defog Here a a few pics of my defroster and avionics cooling fans. Like I stated before, these things put out plenty of air. I also wanted my stack located in the center of the panel, hence the modifications to the center rib and inner panel. I made up some dimensional boxes out of cardboard to represent the avionics with the harness connections included and taped them together to be sure I had adequate clearance. David Clifford RV-10 Builder Howell, MI


    Message 13


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    Time: 06:43:41 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Duckwork HID lights
    From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
    I have 2, although not wig-wags. I installed them after completing the leading edges with no problems. As long as they are off of the airplane I had no issues at all with access. Eric Kallio Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329146#329146


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:26:11 PM PST US
    From: Rick Lark <larkrv10@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: Tank attach zees
    Bill, as is said, timing is everything.- I just happened to prime my tank Zee's today.- - So there is a little epoxy primer in the holes, however it is not real hard yet.- Having said that, I was able to finger twirl a #13 drill bit but n ot a #12, as it seemed to catch some aluminum. - So since a #13 is .185", I expect the holes are .002 or .003" shy of a #12 hole.- I'd drill them if it were me. - Hope this helps. - Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont --- On Mon, 1/31/11, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote: From: Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> Subject: RV10-List: Tank attach zees Received: Monday, January 31, 2011, 7:37 PM On page 18-4 step 1 we are instructed to rivet the nutplates to the fuel ta nk attach zees (T-1012's).- Do we need to final drill the bolt holes to a certain size or are they the correct size already? My holes have paint in them from priming so at the least, I need to run a b it through them to get the paint out.- Can someone with unprimed Zee's te ll me what size the hole is?- - Sorry if this should be common knowledge but I wanted to make sure. - Thanks in advance, Bill =0A=0A


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:49:32 PM PST US
    From: Rick Lark <larkrv10@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: Duckwork HID lights
    Sam, as Robin states, you can't beat the HID's for recognition distance/bri ghtness. - I'm a little concerned about wig-waging the HID's so I am going to use the wing tip halogen lights as wig/wags.- If they don't perform as I hope, I can always change my lighting configuration. - I expect this aircraft will evolve as I fly it and I will need something to mess around with when I'm not flying anyway.- As everyone knows, that's the beauty of an experimental...... - Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont --- On Tue, 2/1/11, Eric_Kallio <scout019@msn.com> wrote: From: Eric_Kallio <scout019@msn.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Duckwork HID lights Received: Tuesday, February 1, 2011, 2:39 AM I have 2, although not wig-wags. I installed them after completing the lead ing edges with no problems. As long as they are off of the airplane I had n o issues at all with access. Eric Kallio Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329146#329146 le, List Admin. =0A=0A




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