Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:50 AM - Re: Re: AHRS Mount angle (Jesse Saint)
2. 05:39 AM - Re: Re: AHRS Mount angle (DLM)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: AHRS Mount angle (bcondrey)
4. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: AHRS Mount angle (DLM)
5. 08:58 AM - AHRS and magnatometer (DLM)
6. 11:43 AM - Tank attach zees (Billy & Tami Britton)
7. 12:03 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog (Rob Kochman)
8. 12:05 PM - AFS fuel flow system display changes (Ralph E. Capen)
9. 01:36 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog (Danny Riggs)
10. 01:36 PM - Re: Tank attach zees (Ron B.)
11. 02:57 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
12. 04:26 PM - Re: Re: defroster/defog Pictures (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
13. 06:43 PM - Re: Duckwork HID lights (Eric_Kallio)
14. 07:26 PM - Re: Tank attach zees (Rick Lark)
15. 07:49 PM - Re: Re: Duckwork HID lights (Rick Lark)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
I didn't see any replies. I haven't done a lot with GRT, but with Dynon and AFS
they are quite adamant about getting it as close as you possibly can. In my
experience, if it also has a magnetometer in it, it is critical to have it as
far away from ferrous metal, especially moving ferrous metal, as possible, but
the angle of installation is supposedly very important. I haven't tried installing
it other ways, but I'd try to get it as close as possible. If I remember
correctly, mounting a 90-degree bracket onto the bulkhead gets it pretty darn
close.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Jan 29, 2011, at 3:25 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Any real world input? I'd also like to know the answer.
>
> The GRT instructions say to put the AHRS parallel to the longitudinal axis. But
there is also a software adjustment to move the vertical bars up/down, "...just
as in a conventional AI...". So I don't know how critical this is.
>
> By my measurement (same location, a shelf built off the longitudinal aluminum
angles behind the battery) I will need to shim the forward end up by 0.15" for
every 7" of length, which is 1.2 degrees. Anyone else get or use these numbers?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328932#328932
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
my backup is a GRT sport with integrated AHRS and external magnetometer.
There is a slight error when mounting the Sport box in the panel but the
pitch adjustment in the software solves that problem. My magnetometer is
mounted on a shelf attached to the longeron in the tailcone. It is off
centerline but parallel to the Crossbow AHRS on the centerline. BTW, the
XBOW is shimmed to match the window sill angle.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 5:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle
>
> I didn't see any replies. I haven't done a lot with GRT, but with Dynon
> and AFS they are quite adamant about getting it as close as you possibly
> can. In my experience, if it also has a magnetometer in it, it is
> critical to have it as far away from ferrous metal, especially moving
> ferrous metal, as possible, but the angle of installation is supposedly
> very important. I haven't tried installing it other ways, but I'd try to
> get it as close as possible. If I remember correctly, mounting a
> 90-degree bracket onto the bulkhead gets it pretty darn close.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jan 29, 2011, at 3:25 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>>
>> Any real world input? I'd also like to know the answer.
>>
>> The GRT instructions say to put the AHRS parallel to the longitudinal
>> axis. But there is also a software adjustment to move the vertical bars
>> up/down, "...just as in a conventional AI...". So I don't know how
>> critical this is.
>>
>> By my measurement (same location, a shelf built off the longitudinal
>> aluminum angles behind the battery) I will need to shim the forward end
>> up by 0.15" for every 7" of length, which is 1.2 degrees. Anyone else get
>> or use these numbers?
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328932#328932
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to consider.
The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment. While you want it to
be close in pitch as well, however there is a pitch offset adjustment in 1 degree
increments. If you need to make minor adjustments after your mount is fabricated,
shims can be used. Van's sells an AHRS mount that goes behind the
baggage bulkhead that guarantees alignment and has attach holes prepunched for
several different AHRS units.
The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the yaw axis.
Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone or outboard in a wingtip.
There's an alignment procedure for the magnetometer that can take out
some of the effects from nearby ferrous materials but keep in mind that battery
contactors, autopilot servos and trim servos are all little electromagnets that
will potentially cause problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found
that the level of the longerons was unacceptable because of the battery contactor.
I wound up putting it on a small shelf attached to the top J-channels.
The center J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for alignment.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
Since my install was in 2005 I established the plate on two angles across
the longeron and then ran a fish line from the aft center of the tail cone
to the front center of the tail cone. See before and after pictures
----- Original Message -----
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 8:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle
>
> The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to
> consider. The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment. While
> you want it to be close in pitch as well, however there is a pitch offset
> adjustment in 1 degree increments. If you need to make minor adjustments
> after your mount is fabricated, shims can be used. Van's sells an AHRS
> mount that goes behind the baggage bulkhead that guarantees alignment and
> has attach holes prepunched for several different AHRS units.
>
> The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the yaw
> axis. Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone or
> outboard in a wingtip. There's an alignment procedure for the
> magnetometer that can take out some of the effects from nearby ferrous
> materials but keep in mind that battery contactors, autopilot servos and
> trim servos are all little electromagnets that will potentially cause
> problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found that the level of the
> longerons was unacceptable because of the battery contactor. I wound up
> putting it on a small shelf attached to the top J-channels. The center
> J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for alignment.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | AHRS and magnatometer |
one more picture.
Message 6
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Subject: | Tank attach zees |
On page 18-4 step 1 we are instructed to rivet the nutplates to the fuel
tank attach zees (T-1012's). Do we need to final drill the bolt holes
to a certain size or are they the correct size already?
My holes have paint in them from priming so at the least, I need to run
a bit through them to get the paint out. Can someone with unprimed
Zee's tell me what size the hole is?
Sorry if this should be common knowledge but I wanted to make sure.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
I think my certified avionics fan converts most of its power into noise. I
actually pulled the fuse on it and won't replace until right before first
flight; otherwise, it's really annoying when I have the master switch on.
-Rob
On Sun, Jan 30, 2011 at 9:09 PM, Lenny Iszak <lenard@rapiddecision.com>wrot
e:
>
> Robin,
>
> One of them there needs its own alternator :)
>
> By the way, i have a certified avionics fan and it pushes half the CFMs a
t
> twice the amp draw of a computer fan... These things are amazing.
>
> Lenny
>
> [quote="robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com"]Those fans are 23 CFM max. That is no
t a
> significant amount of air.
> I think each of my 80 or 92 cm fans were above 100 CFM.
> =EF=BD
> Here=EF=BDs an 80 mm fan with 84 CFM
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re
=computer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product(
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612&cm_re
=computer_fan-_-11-999-612-_-Product
> )
> =EF=BD
> Here is a 92 mm with 90 CFM
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re
=computer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product(
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213009&cm_re
=computer_fan-_-35-213-009-_-Product
> )
> =EF=BD
> Heck here is a 120 mm with 240 CFM. YIKES!
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re
=computer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product(
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&cm_re
=computer_fan-_-35-213-001-_-Product
> )
> =EF=BD
> Disclaimer: Please do your own research as I have not read the product
> details in depth on any of these units.
> =EF=BD
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
> =EF=BD
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com (
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com) [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.co
m)]
> On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:13 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com (rv10-list@matronics.com)
> Subject: Re: defroster/defog
>
>
> =EF=BD
>
> For those who couldn't view David's post, I've clipped out the text
> below so you can see it.=EF=BD Looks like a great way to go if you ca
n
> find a good mounting for it.=EF=BD At $6, the price isn't bad at all.
> My advice is that when you do find a fan you like, buy a couple
> of spares for down the road.=EF=BD I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cra
cked
> one on install.=EF=BD So I used a spare right away.=EF=BD Once the
bearings
> start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have
> a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up.
> Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard,
> but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for
> a match.
>
> Tim
>
> (See David's post below)
>
>
> On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net (davidsoutpost@comcast.ne
t)
> wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these
> >
>
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric (
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric)
for
> the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need
> to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the
> avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are
> quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and
> headsets are on.
>
> David Clifford
> RV-10 Builder
> N849RV (reservedNavigator to browse
> ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis
t
> ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> =======================
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com (http://www.avg.com)
> Version: 10.0.120
>
> > [b]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329051#329051
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 8
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Subject: | AFS fuel flow system display changes |
First, I'll preface by saying that I really like the equipment that these folks
have for our planes and their customer service is top-notch - and I am an outsider
not related to the company other than as a customer. Not bashing anyone
here - just trying to get an understanding of who this change impacts and how
it impacts them. My configuration started as a 3400EM - I have since upgraded
to 3400sSP configuration (new processor and screen in addition to six-pack display)
to have a set of backup instruments. The upgrade also included a Beta
software release to fix a couple of last minute bugs in my system.
Here's the scoop:
I have 19 gallons per side for main tanks and 9 gallons per side for tip tanks
for a total capacity of 56 gallons, with them all filled, the system reports 56
gallons available.
Previously, the "Fuel Used" display only showed that fuel that has flowed through
the flow-meter. If I only fill the mains, the system shows 38 gallons available
and zero used. As I ran the engine for my flight, the "Fuel Used" display
would increase from Zero by showing only fuel flowed through the flow meter.
Now, the "Fuel Used" display shows the fuel that has flowed through the flow-meter
plus the unfilled tanks.
If I only fill the mains, the system shows 38 gallons available and 18 gallons
used. As I ran the engine for my flight, the "Fuel Used" display would increase
from 18 while adding the fuel that has subsequently flowed through the flow-meter.
Somewhere during the flight, if I look at the "Fuel Used" display, I note that
what is reported is getting close to what I just put in.....18 gallons early.
Good safety margin - but not what I was expecting.
I have queried the folks at AFS about this - they respond that the change was made
in the interest of safety and to reduce confusion. Yes, I could simply not
look at the "Fuel Used" display and only look at the "Fuel Available" display
and cross check that with my fuel guages and time calculations for flight endurance
planning purposes. I also asked for an optional flowed-only mode or to
allow the user the choice of calculation methods (they still have the old code
and it simply would be a system setting).
I know that I am not the only one having trouble with this change - AFS indicated
that they have received multiple indications of concern.
Anyone else out there think this is an "odd change"? How are you (planning to)
accomodating this? I am planning to try ignoring the "Fuel Used" display and
see how that works....with a plan B of having multiple configurations (with and
without tip-tanks) that I can upluad when Iplan to fuel the tiptanks. I don't
expect them to change it back - but they may provide options if enough folks
ask for it. Or, am I being overly picky about something that shouldn't matter
- in the big picture?
Your opinions please,
Ralph Capen
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
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Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Tank attach zees |
If I had a memory I'd be dangerous. While building I have charts to check sizing.
I do believe a K-1000-3 is for an AN 3 bolt. An an 3 bolt requires a #12 bit
, going by memory. The Avery tool catalog had this information listed in it
on page 57 a few years back. I think it is also in the red book from Van's.
I can find out for sure if no one helps out, I'll have to go to the hangar.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
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Message 11
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: defroster/defog Pictures |
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 5:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: defroster/defog
Here a a few pics of my defroster and avionics cooling fans. Like I stated before,
these things put out plenty of air. I also wanted my stack located in the
center of the panel, hence the modifications to the center rib and inner panel.
I made up some dimensional boxes out of cardboard to represent the avionics
with the harness connections included and taped them together to be sure I had
adequate clearance.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
I have 2, although not wig-wags. I installed them after completing the leading
edges with no problems. As long as they are off of the airplane I had no issues
at all with access.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329146#329146
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Tank attach zees |
Bill, as is said, timing is everything.- I just happened to prime my tank
Zee's today.-
-
So there is a little epoxy primer in the holes, however it is not real hard
yet.- Having said that, I was able to finger twirl a #13 drill bit but n
ot a #12, as it seemed to catch some aluminum.
-
So since a #13 is .185", I expect the holes are .002 or .003" shy of a #12
hole.- I'd drill them if it were me.
-
Hope this helps.
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Mon, 1/31/11, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
From: Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tank attach zees
Received: Monday, January 31, 2011, 7:37 PM
On page 18-4 step 1 we are instructed to rivet the nutplates to the fuel ta
nk attach zees (T-1012's).- Do we need to final drill the bolt holes to a
certain size or are they the correct size already?
My holes have paint in them from priming so at the least, I need to run a b
it through them to get the paint out.- Can someone with unprimed Zee's te
ll me what size the hole is?-
-
Sorry if this should be common knowledge but I wanted to make sure.
-
Thanks in advance,
Bill
=0A=0A
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
Sam, as Robin states, you can't beat the HID's for recognition distance/bri
ghtness.
-
I'm a little concerned about wig-waging the HID's so I am going to use the
wing tip halogen lights as wig/wags.- If they don't perform as I hope, I
can always change my lighting configuration.
-
I expect this aircraft will evolve as I fly it and I will need something to
mess around with when I'm not flying anyway.- As everyone knows, that's
the beauty of an experimental......
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Tue, 2/1/11, Eric_Kallio <scout019@msn.com> wrote:
From: Eric_Kallio <scout019@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Duckwork HID lights
Received: Tuesday, February 1, 2011, 2:39 AM
I have 2, although not wig-wags. I installed them after completing the lead
ing edges with no problems. As long as they are off of the airplane I had n
o issues at all with access.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329146#329146
le, List Admin.
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