Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:25 AM - Re: Exhaust (Werner Schneider)
2. 05:00 AM - Re: MCMASTER DOOR SEAL (Traville Houston)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: Re: MCMASTER DOOR SEAL (Seano)
4. 06:04 AM - Door Pin - Bullets (Phillip Perry)
5. 06:36 AM - Re: Door Pin - Bullets (DLM)
6. 06:36 AM - Re: No longer a project (Marcus Cooper)
7. 07:02 AM - Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 (Masys, Daniel R)
8. 07:27 AM - Re: Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 (Tim Olson)
9. 07:43 AM - Re: Door Pin - Bullets (Bob Condrey)
10. 07:44 AM - Re: Door Pin - Bullets (Bob Condrey)
11. 07:54 AM - Re: Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 (Albert Gardner)
12. 08:43 AM - Re: Door Pin - Bullets (Rob Kochman)
13. 09:04 AM - Re: Door Pin - Bullets (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Exhaust |
Exactly,
BTW, you have the blow out gaskets from Van's and in the Vettermans box
there is another set of these Gaskets, so one set to much (at least in
my kit).
Werner
On 08.02.2011 04:06, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> Yeah, I had that in my exhaust kit as well. I think it is Vetterman
> putting those in there, not Vans.
>
> On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 7:41 PM, Bob Leffler<rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>> I received the back order items off my FWF kit order today. I was surprised
>> to find in the box with the Vetterman exhaust, an advertisement for G3i
>> Ignitions and Flight Data Systems. I just thought it atypical of Vans
>> pushing a specific product other than their own.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: MCMASTER DOOR SEAL |
DOES ANYONE HAVE THE PRODUCT # FOR THE DOOR SEALS USED FROM MCMASTER? THE SEALS
FROM VANS ARE MUCH TOO TIGHT ON THE SIDES (VERTICAL SECTION) OF MY DOORS.
________________________________
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:31:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Yup, just chalk that up to a long day. I switched a couple of numbers around in
my head.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 3:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Not to be anal, but 8 11/32 - 7.5 (7 16/32) is not more than an inch, but it's
not important. It could really depend on how the plane is sitting, loaded,
fueled, etc.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2011, at 5:28 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
Mine measured at 8 11/32". Don't know if there is any slop in the rubber discs
yet.
>Interesting it is over one 1" taller.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
>
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:47:58 AM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
>The spacer came from Van's. It's part # U-1002 on page 46-07. I had someone
>hold the tail down and then I lifted up on the nose gear to see if it was tight.
> It moved, so I knew it needed another spacer. You can also tell if the bolt
>holding the cap on can move freely when you loosen the nut. The distance from
>the prop to the ground depends on how the engine hangs on the engine mounts and
>other things, but I'll measure it...7.5".
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>jesse@saintaviation.com
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>
>On Feb 7, 2011, at 12:16 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>Jesse, I really like what you tried and have thought about it. I never had a
>shake until around 100 - 150 hours. If the front gear settles down slightly it
>changes the toe-in.
>>If it is still possible can you measure the distance between the prop and the
>>ground?
>>Where did you purchase the spacer?
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>>
>>I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a fair
>>bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another spacer on
>>the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut one flat. Most
>>of the shimmy went away.
>>
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>C: 352-427-0285
>>F: 815-377-3694
>>
>>On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>>
>>I have posted on this topic before.
>>>Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>>>Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires, pressures,
>>>ect.
>>>I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
>>>indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
>>>people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor gear
>>>design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear but is
the
>>>cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>>>It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
I
>>>can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer to
get
>>>the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes. It is
the
>>>system hitting a natural frequency.
>>>Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models
to
>>>stop it.
>>>
>>>
>>>I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the exact
>>>toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two different
>>>sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next plan, when
I
>>>get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from PlaneAround.com and start
>>>stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good way
>>>change the moment of inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to
back
>>>direction.
>>>I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage
with
>>>every landing.
>>>I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>>>
>>>
>>>Let me know if you find anything out.
>>>Thanks, Scott
>>>
>>>On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
>>>>I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
much
>>>>but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
>>>>nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are
>>>>smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly
>>>>moving forward and back.
>>>>
>>>>Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
>>>>shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>>>
>>>>Thank you,
>>>>
>>>>Roger Standley
>>>>N291RV
>>>>165 hours
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>>ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
>>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com/
>>>>=========
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/contribution=========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=%22http://forums.matronics.com/%22%3Ehttp://forums.matronics.com
>>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>n
>>
>>
>>
>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=%22http://forums.matronics.com/%22%3Ehttp://forums.matronics.com
>>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>n
>>
>>
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>n
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: MCMASTER DOOR SEAL |
1120A311 or 1120A411 depending on your fiberglass width. One at 3/16
and one at 1/4
----- Original Message -----
From: Traville Houston
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 5:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: MCMASTER DOOR SEAL
DOES ANYONE HAVE THE PRODUCT # FOR THE DOOR SEALS USED FROM MCMASTER?
THE SEALS FROM VANS ARE MUCH TOO TIGHT ON THE SIDES (VERTICAL SECTION)
OF MY DOORS.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:31:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Yup, just chalk that up to a long day. I switched a couple of numbers
around in my head.
Scott Schmidt
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 3:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Not to be anal, but 8 11/32 - 7.5 (7 16/32) is not more than an inch,
but it's not important. It could really depend on how the plane is
sitting, loaded, fueled, etc.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2011, at 5:28 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
Mine measured at 8 11/32". Don't know if there is any slop in the
rubber discs yet.
Interesting it is over one 1" taller.
Scott Schmidt
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:47:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
The spacer came from Van's. It's part # U-1002 on page 46-07. I
had someone hold the tail down and then I lifted up on the nose gear to
see if it was tight. It moved, so I knew it needed another spacer. You
can also tell if the bolt holding the cap on can move freely when you
loosen the nut. The distance from the prop to the ground depends on how
the engine hangs on the engine mounts and other things, but I'll measure
it...7.5".
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2011, at 12:16 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
Jesse, I really like what you tried and have thought about it. I
never had a shake until around 100 - 150 hours. If the front gear
settles down slightly it changes the toe-in.
If it is still possible can you measure the distance between the
prop and the ground?
Where did you purchase the spacer?
Scott Schmidt
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition
it had a fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I
added another spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose
gear pivot nut one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
I have posted on this topic before.
Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other
RV-10's.
Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different
tires, pressures, ect.
I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about
it and he indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also
heard that when people installed the wheel pants it started. It all
comes down to a poor gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal
design for a landing gear but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing
point of view.
It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no
braking it occurs. I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel
jacked up and use my buffer to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it
slows to around 25 mph, it shakes. It is the system hitting a natural
frequency.
Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of
other RV models to stop it.
I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs
to get the exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I
have tried two different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all
with no luck. My next plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel
pant spacers from PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to
the gear. Then I will start finding a good way change the moment of
inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back direction.
I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it
as a massage with every landing.
I will find a way to eliminate it though.
Let me know if you find anything out.
Thanks, Scott
On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley"
<taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I
was landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph.
Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems
to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20
mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left main was
shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back.
Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to
minimize the shaking that anyone has discovered?
Thank you,
Roger Standley
N291RV
165 hours
=========
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com/=========
=http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution=========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=%22http://forums.matronics.com/%22%3E
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.c
om/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=%22http://forums.matronics.com/%22%3E
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.c
om/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://for
ums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
Message 4
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Subject: | Door Pin - Bullets |
Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper adjustment
procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and bullet shaped
pins?
I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
bullet on (with lok-tite).
But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two
pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate,
one has no door.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillip Perry
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
bullet shaped pins?
I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put
the bullet on (with lok-tite).
But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 6
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Subject: | No longer a project |
Congratulations Eric! Have fun with the flying that you've been working so
hard toward.
Marcus
40286
~500 hrs
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 4:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: No longer a project
DAR stopped by yesterday afternoon. He had already inspected it apart and
wanted it all together. He took a look at it, watched me run it and taxi it
around the airfield. Satisfied, and after 45 minutes of paperwork he handed
me the airworthiness certificate. I guess it is no longer a project. Now it
is an airplane. It was too late in the day to fly, sun was going down.
Weather today was absolute garbage. Maybe first flight next Saturday, just
waiting on weather. Already starting to get the grin and haven't even flown
it yet.
Eric
N518RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330043#330043
Message 7
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Subject: | Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 |
Since building RV's is like eating potato chips (you can't stop at one), I
am pleased to confirm that once you have a fine high performance RV-10 you
can still have fun building an RV-12 Light Sport.
We had a little RV family reunion in Nashville of all 3 planes my wife and
I built. She made an online photo show at:
http://www.photoshow.com/watch/rn2dF6mM?language=enu<http://www.photoshow
.com/watch/rn2dF6mM?language=enu?source=em_ps_show_recipient>
And the first flight of the RV-12 is at:
http://www.photoshow.com/watch/yF2vr9Cn?language=enu<http://www.photoshow
.com/watch/yF2vr9Cn?language=enu?source=em_ps_show_recipient>
-Dan Masys
RV-10 455 hrs
RV-12 4 hrs ;-)
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 |
Well that didn't take long! :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 2/8/2011 8:58 AM, Masys, Daniel R wrote:
> Since building RVs is like eating potato chips (you cant stop at one),
> I am pleased to confirm that once you have a fine high performance RV-10
> you can still have fun building an RV-12 Light Sport.
>
> We had a little RV family reunion in Nashville of all 3 planes my wife
> and I built. She made an online photo show at:
>
> http://www.photoshow.com/watch/rn2dF6mM?language=enu
> <http://www.photoshow.com/watch/rn2dF6mM?language=enu?source=em_ps_show_recipient>
>
> And the first flight of the RV-12 is at:
>
> http://www.photoshow.com/watch/yF2vr9Cn?language=enu
> <http://www.photoshow.com/watch/yF2vr9Cn?language=enu?source=em_ps_show_recipient>
>
> -Dan Masys
>
> RV-10 455 hrs
>
> RV-12 4 hrs ;-)
>
> *
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
Pretty much that simple. You thread the inside of the rods as part of the
standard Van's install (page 45, step 1) for marking the hole location in
the door jamb. After the hole marking step you simply cut off the taper and
install the threaded tips. The aluminum blocks simply replace the stock
Delrin pieces. Unlike the Delrin pieces you can match drill from the
aluminum blocks for the mount holes.
Alignment for the door latch sensors is identical to stock except that the
magnets are integral to the tips (I think all of the sources now do this).
Just adjust the reed switches so that they only trigger when the latch is
completely shut.
Bob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:00 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
> adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
> bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
> bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
The aftermarket pins from IFLYRV10.com are stainless with steel threaded
rods and installed with locktite.
Bob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:28 AM, DLM <dlm34077@q.com> wrote:
> Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two
> pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one
> has no door.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
>
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
> adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
> bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
> bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 |
I can confirm that. My first kit was a 9A, now flying a '10 (512 hrs) and
helped a friend build a '12 in my garage. Started the RV-12 in mid-July and
finished up at Christmas. It's quick to build and cost ME nothing for all
the fun.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
Subject: RV10-List: Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12
Since building RV's is like eating potato chips (you can't stop at one), I
am pleased to confirm that once you have a fine high performance RV-10 you
can still have fun building an RV-12 Light Sport.
-Dan Masys
RV-10 455 hrs
RV-12 4 hrs ;-)
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
> It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they
loosen and separate, one has no door.
I think it'd be difficult for a pin to thread all the way out without
noticing. That said, it's not too difficult to build it such that even
without the pins, the rod engages with the aluminum block.
-Rob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 6:28 AM, DLM <dlm34077@q.com> wrote:
> Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two
> pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one
> has no door.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
>
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
> adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
> bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
> bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
Although I think it's a good idea and all, my worry has
always been that some flexing on the shaft will split
the tubing at the point where you cut the threads in.
So the tips then crack the tubing and it separates.
If that happened, it wouldn't be good. I was thinking
that if you could build it so a sleeve got glued over
top of the joint, but didn't interfere with the action
of it all by going through the nylon, it would make it
more comforting. But at this point there are enough
people flying them that we should see a good initial
service history pretty soon. I'm just not a fan
of the aluminum tubing part of the system.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 2/8/2011 10:40 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> > It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if
> they loosen and separate, one has no door.
> I think it'd be difficult for a pin to thread all the way out without
> noticing. That said, it's not too difficult to build it such that even
> without the pins, the rod engages with the aluminum block.
> -Rob
>
> On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 6:28 AM, DLM <dlm34077@q.com
> <mailto:dlm34077@q.com>> wrote:
>
> Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its
> two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and
> separate, one has no door.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Phillip Perry <mailto:philperry9@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
>
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and
> proper adjustment procedures for the folks who install the
> aluminum blocks and bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap,
> then put the bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
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> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
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