Today's Message Index:
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1. 10:12 AM - Re: Re: Crow Harnesses (Rob Kochman)
2. 08:23 PM - parameters (Strasnuts)
3. 09:10 PM - Re: Door Pin - Bullets (Strasnuts)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
Before I call Crow, what about the other systems (Hooker and the standard
Van's ones)? Where is the "Y" in relation to the headrest and mount on the
canopy? Halfway between? Closer to the seat? What do people prefer?
-Rob
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 7:13 PM, Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>wrote:
>
> Let us know what they say. Ordering the same harnesses is near the top of
> my todo list.
>
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
> On 2/7/2011 6:01 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
>> Thanks, guys... I'm having second thoughts with my "good enough"
>> assessment from the other day. The belts feel fine, but it seems like the
>> geometry is off, with the shoulder straps essentially coming from the
>> top-center of the headrest. I think I'm going to call and have them re-make
>> the front seat shoulder straps. There's also *way* too much extra strap
>> (around 3 feet) when I have them adjusted, so something is clearly not
>> right. Maybe when I said "RV-10" they assumed all RVs are the same? Not
>> really sure what's going on, but this is something that needs to be done
>> right.
>> DAR inspection in 13 days. Not exactly what I want to be messing with
>> now...
>> -Rob
>>
>>
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 2
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I was wondering if anyone has ran across a list of parameters for the RV-10 with
the standard IO-540 engine. I want to setup my EFIS parameters tomorrow for
all the speeds, temps, rpms, etc.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331192#331192
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
I finally got around to respond to this. From selling pins and guides and setting
up a bunch of doors and talking to customers I have learned a lot about the
doors. Two of my customers had pushrod tubes from Vans that were extruded with
oversized I.D.s which would not hold the 5/16-24 thread. It is important
to make sure the threads engage well enough to hold the pins in place. Loc-tite
is great after finishing the pin installation. I sell both styles of pins,
angled and bullet. My pins are hollow with long 5/16-24 set screws and allow
the builder to epoxy vans' magnets inside the pins. They work great that way
and don't need further adjustment for the proximity switches. They also work
good because they are not open at the end to catch on anything . Mechanical
micro switches work with these too of course.
I do believe Vans had the good idea of having an angle on the end to pull the pins
to the guides. If you think about it, the angled pins have 7/16 of error
to pull the door into the guides where the bullet pins have only 7/32. I try
to talk my customers that have the 180 handles to use the stainless angled pins
and Delrin guides. They really work well together. I only sell the aluminum
guides with bullet pins because the stainless angled pins will catch on the
aluminum where the bullet pins slide through easier. The only time I suggest
the angled pins is on 180 kits when the length of penetration into the the cabin
structure is sufficient. 90 degrees only gives you about 1 inch of pin extension.
Vans' setup is about 110 degrees and give the pins about 1-1/4 of extension.
180 gives the pins 2 inches of travel or with the planearound latch
it gives you 30-60 degrees of the cam pulling in the door and the rest to pin
extension (1-1/4 to 1-5/8 inches of travel).
Some things to think about - anyone starting out with the door should NOT cut the
Vans' rack gears per the instructions. You should cut them in half leaving
five inches for the upper and lower pieces. Even if you don't want the extra
travel, it is there if you ever want it. Cutting them short per Vans' instructions
limits the travel of the handle from the blind rivet in the gear rack or
the end of the gear rack hitting the Vans' gearbox. If you don't want the full
180 degrees you could drill the rack gear and push a roll pin in it to stop
the rotation if you desired. The gear racks are EXPENSIVE and add 80 bucks
to the retro fit 180 just because plans tell you to cut them short.
I encourage any questions about the door, door pins, door guides, latches etc.
even if your not interested in anything I sell. I truly want builders to have
the info for their project no matter what they are doing. The doors are the
achilles heel of the RV-10. I'm not saying they don't work, they just require
attention. The plane is absolutely awesome overall, this is just the weakest
link.
801-580-3737
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331194#331194
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