Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:49 AM - penetrating oil (David Leikam)
2. 07:50 AM - seatbelt bolt bushings (John Gonzalez)
3. 09:05 AM - Re: seatbelt bolt bushings (AirMike)
4. 10:47 AM - Re: seatbelt bolt bushings (David Leikam)
5. 12:49 PM - Re: penetrating oil (Kelly McMullen)
6. 02:07 PM - fuel leak (Wayne Williams)
7. 02:58 PM - Re: penetrating oil (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
8. 04:39 PM - Penetrating oil (Kelly McMullen)
9. 04:43 PM - Re: fuel leak (James McGrew)
10. 04:43 PM - Re: fuel leak (Kelly McMullen)
11. 04:48 PM - Re: fuel leak (Bruce Johnson)
12. 05:50 PM - Re: fuel leak (DLM)
13. 06:05 PM - Re: fuel leak (Kelly McMullen)
14. 06:16 PM - Re: fuel leak (Kelly McMullen)
15. 06:31 PM - HD Video Action Camera with Remote! (Robin Marks)
16. 06:44 PM - Need wheel pant part numbers!!! Need new nosewheel pant (Eric_Kallio)
17. 07:25 PM - Re: fuel leak (Rob Kochman)
18. 07:38 PM - Re: Need wheel pant part numbers!!! Need new nosewheel pant (Tim Olson)
19. 07:59 PM - Re: seatbelt bolt bushings (John Gonzalez)
20. 08:05 PM - Re: Penetrating oil (David Leikam)
Message 1
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This is a bit off subject, but a while ago there was some suggestions for using
MEK and something else I think for a good rusty bolt penetrating liquid.
Can anyone forward me the thread or suggest what the other ingredient was?
Thanks!
PS
My inspection is set for this Wednesday :-)
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
Message 2
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| Subject: | seatbelt bolt bushings |
Does anyone know where in the kit the aluminum tubing is for making the bus
hing which go through the selt belts and over the bolts which fasten the se
atbelts to the airframe??
Thanks
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: seatbelt bolt bushings |
I am not sure of the size, but you surely have a lot of scrap aluminum tubing (fuel,
brake, pitot, etc.) that you will use for this application. Just cut a few
pieces from the tubing with a band saw. Cut carefully, as they are easy to
lose when they are so small. Measure with your harbor freight micrometer.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332203#332203
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: seatbelt bolt bushings |
I went to the hardware store and bought some SS tubing with the correct
ID and OD and cut it to fit. The plans say to drill out the aluminum
tubing supplied but that was a bit cumbersome.
I did not find anything in the kit which had the correct ID for the
bushings you speak of.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Feb 27, 2011, at 9:44 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> Does anyone know where in the kit the aluminum tubing is for making
the bushing which go through the selt belts and over the bolts which
fasten the seatbelts to the airframe??
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: penetrating oil |
IIRC it was either brake fluid or transmission fluid. I'll search my
archives to see what I can find.
On 2/27/2011 7:45 AM, David Leikam wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: David Leikam<daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
>
> This is a bit off subject, but a while ago there was some suggestions for using
MEK and something else I think for a good rusty bolt penetrating liquid.
> Can anyone forward me the thread or suggest what the other ingredient was?
> Thanks!
>
> PS
>
> My inspection is set for this Wednesday :-)
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
>
>
Message 6
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So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
Thanks.
Wayne
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: penetrating oil |
Get yourself a can of Kroil. This stuff is amazing. http://www.kanolabs.com/
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 9:45:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: penetrating oil
This is a bit off subject, but a while ago there was some suggestions for using
MEK and something else I think for a good rusty bolt penetrating liquid.
Can anyone forward me the thread or suggest what the other ingredient was?
Thanks!
PS
My inspection is set for this Wednesday :-)
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
Message 8
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This is the information you were looking for.
=========
Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on
rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
Penetrating oil..... Average load
None ............ ......516 pounds
WD-40 ................238 pounds
PB Blaster ............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.
Message 9
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Wayne,
I had a similar leaking rivet during my first annual on my quick build
wings. I used green loctite 290 to seal it up. No problems now almost 4
years later.
My rivet was on the bottom, so I drained the fuel. Someone told me to put a
little vacuum on the tank to help the Loctite get into the rivet, that
sounded like a lot of work to do. I thought it was easier to put a little
pressure on the outside, so I put a piece of rubber hose into a balloon and
held that over the rivet to force some of the Loctite under the rivet. So I
laid on my back under the wing for an hour or so and held it there. I also
used a heat gun to help the Loctite dry. Then I probably let it sit for a
couple weeks before filling the tank back up.
-Jim
N312JE
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Williams
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 3:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel leak
So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
Thanks.
Wayne
Message 10
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If the sealant is soft, it is bad. The bad sealant has to be removed, then
replaced. Hard plastic or plexiglass scrapers to avoid damaging your
aluminum. There is a solvent. It is slow acting. You probably are going to
have to remove the tank to work on it and find the actual leak. I can get
you the source of the solvent. For hand work the gel form is best.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Wayne Williams <rwayne@gamewood.net> wrote:
> So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
> blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
> like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
> experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Wayne
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the
=0Aexposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the
proseal =0Aoff and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking- rivets, but
they were-in-the =0Athe area between the wing and cabin that is hidden
from sight. Deem's said the =0Acourse of action for visible leaks is-put
ting the tanks under vacuum and letting =0Asome green loc-tite get sucked i
n. I did that and then added the epoxy, so not =0Asure which worked but my
blue stain had gone away. Mine were quick build too and =0Aboth leaked at t
he the same location. Good luck. And for the vacuum-I used my =0Ashop vac
and it seemed to work well. Good Luck=0A=0ABruce 151BJ 39 hrs--=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Wayne Williams <rwayne@ga
mewood.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, February 27, 2011 3:
04:49 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: fuel leak=0A=0A=0ASo, doing my first conditi
on inspection and found a small fuel leak (big blue =0Astain) at the inboar
d leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels like =0Aputty. I had a qu
ickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal =0Aexperience. How in
the world do you fix something like this?=0AThanks.=0A-=0AWayne=0A-=0A
=================== =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 12
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Not a solution but questions. Do you allow passengers to stand on any
portion of the tank during loading? Did you remove the QB tanks to
install the stall warning?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel leak
Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to
the exposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped
the proseal off and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets,
but they were in the the area between the wing and cabin that is hidden
from sight. Deem's said the course of action for visible leaks is
putting the tanks under vacuum and letting some green loc-tite get
sucked in. I did that and then added the epoxy, so not sure which worked
but my blue stain had gone away. Mine were quick build too and both
leaked at the the same location. Good luck. And for the vacuum I used my
shop vac and it seemed to work well. Good Luck
Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Wayne Williams <rwayne@gamewood.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sun, February 27, 2011 3:04:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel leak
So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak
(big blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The
sealant feels like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I
have no proseal experience. How in the world do you fix something like
this?
Thanks.
Wayne
Message 13
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If that is what the so-called experts told you, they simply don't know
what they are talking about, or are giving you a pacifying excuse with
no basis in fact. Pro-seal only gets gummy if it wasn't mixed and
cured correctly to start with, or was exposed long term to auto-gas.
There are many Mooneys no only with wet wing tanks, but with wet wing
aux tanks that are left empty most of the time. Current versions of
Pro-seal, or Flamemaster Chemseal do not need to be kept wet with
fuel. If that were true, your tanks would leak like a sieve the first
time you put fuel in them, since it likely will have been a year or
two from the sealing to the filling for first flight.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the exposure
to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the proseal off
and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets, but they wereinthe the
area between the wing and cabin that is hidden from sight. Deem's said the course
of action for visible leaks isputting the tanks under vacuum and letting
some green loc-tite get sucked in. I did that and then added the epoxy, so not
sure which worked but my blue stain had gone away. Mine were quick build too
and both leaked at the the same location. Good luck. And for the vacuumI used
my shop vac and it seemed to work well. Good Luck
>
> Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
Message 14
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http://www.rpm-technology.com/PG300-AG_Gel.htm
Used a fair amount stripping and resealing a Mooney tank. The
smallest container should be enough for your job. They do sell direct.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:40 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
> If the sealant is soft, it is bad. The bad sealant has to be removed, then
> replaced. Hard plastic or Plexiglas scrapers to avoid damaging your
> aluminum. There is a solvent. It is slow acting. You probably are going to
> have to remove the tank to work on it and find the actual leak. I can get
> you the source of the solvent. For hand work the gel form is best.
>
> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Wayne Williams <rwayne@gamewood.net> wrote:
>>
>> So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
>> blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
>> like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
>> experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Wayne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | HD Video Action Camera with Remote! |
As a follow up to our discussion of video cameras I came across this unit
that seems to have unique features including:
Rotating Lens for level framing
Remote Control to turn on/off from a distance (no idea what range)
Screen to review footage
Audio In jack (proprietary but then connects to standard plug [I think])
Note the reviews also say it=92s larger than you expect from the photos.
http://driftinnovation.com/
They even have an Aviation page:
http://driftinnovation.com/category/airshow/
Some good aviation reviews. The only down side I read is the built in audio
is lacking. I suspect wiring the 3.5 mm Mic-In would be the best way to
capture intercom audio.
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
I used the camera's mounting equipment and tie-wraps to attach my Drift HD
170 camera to the left wing strut of my Cessna 172 airplane. I have now
taken several HD videos of flights in northern Michigan during very cold
temps (15-20 degrees F). The videos are spectacular on my HD television.
They look as good as the promotional videos on the manufacturer's website.
The camera endures winds of more than 100 knots during the flights without
any difficulty. Minor vibration on the first flight was cured with duct tap
e
on the base that made the mounting more secure and eliminated play. The
camera's unique adjustment feature that allows me to mount the camera at an
angle on the strut and twist the lens to level the picture is a key feature
.
It does not move from the position that I've set it in. The audio even work
s
well at altitude with the engine roaring. I am thinking of buying a second
camera to mount at another position on the plane. I would recommend it
highly to others.
*Bottom Line:*
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Just shot a promo using this camera mounted in a helicopter and airplane. I
t
was subjected to high frequency vibrations in the helicopter and performed
superbly when mounted properly. I was very pleased with the quality of the
video and the 170 degrees perfectly covered the inside of the cockpit. The
rotating lens is ingenious! The only drawback of this camera is the audio
proprietary plug. You can only use their wired mic for this camera. I
attempted to acquire the aircraft audio by placing the Drift mic inside
aircraft headsets... which was iffy. If Drift had offered a mini jack
adapter I would have given this product 5 stars. Oh, and their "manual" is
a
folded pamphlet that excludes important info like how to charge the battery
(plug the Drift into your computer just like an iPod). Otherwise, enjoy,
it's a fun camera!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Need wheel pant part numbers!!! Need new nosewheel pant |
I left my plans at the hanger and I need to order both halves of a front wheel
fairing for my -10. Search of the webstore pointed me to the RV-12 gear. Here
is why I need a new fairing.
While on short final for the first of what was to be a couple of touch and goes
during my fly-off I heard a bit of a buzzing out front. Nothing serious I thought
since there was a bit of a cross wind I figured it was the nose wheel coming
straight as I got below the trees and out of the crosswind. I touched down
on the mains and started the flaps up, added power and picked right back up.
At about 50 feet I heard a pop. That is when a friend in another aircraft waiting
to take off called me on the radio asking if I planned to come back around
and pick up the pieces of my nose wheel pant from the runway. According to him
and another witness on the ground, when I first approached it looked like the
left side of the wheel pant was fluttering as if it had pulled through the screws.When
I hit the power for the go-around and picked up speed it "exploded"(their
words) into about 8 major pieces. Post-mortem of the wheel pant supports
the ground reports of potential pulled through mounting screws. The left screw
holes are enlarged while the right ones held and I pulled some smaller pieces
from under these screws. I will be redoing the wheel pant of course. Except
this time I will be adding more glass to the sides and spreading the load with
tinnerman washers at a minimum.
Eric Kallio
N518RV 16 hours of phase 1 remaining.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332252#332252
Message 17
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Hey, at least they've heard of the problem this time.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> If that is what the so-called experts told you, they simply don't know
> what they are talking about, or are giving you a pacifying excuse with
> no basis in fact. Pro-seal only gets gummy if it wasn't mixed and
> cured correctly to start with, or was exposed long term to auto-gas.
> There are many Mooneys no only with wet wing tanks, but with wet wing
> aux tanks that are left empty most of the time. Current versions of
> Pro-seal, or Flamemaster Chemseal do not need to be kept wet with
> fuel. If that were true, your tanks would leak like a sieve the first
> time you put fuel in them, since it likely will have been a year or
> two from the sealing to the filling for first flight.
>
> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Bruce Johnson
> <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the
> exposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the
> proseal off and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets, but they
> were in the the area between the wing and cabin that is hidden from sight.
> Deem's said the course of action for visible leaks is putting the tanks
> under vacuum and letting some green loc-tite get sucked in. I did that and
> then added the epoxy, so not sure which worked but my blue stain had gone
> away. Mine were quick build too and both leaked at the the same location.
> Good luck. And for the vacuum I used my shop vac and it seemed to work well.
> Good Luck
> >
> > Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Need wheel pant part numbers!!! Need new nosewheel pant |
U-1013A Front
U-1013B Rear
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 2/27/2011 8:42 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio"<scout019@msn.com>
>
> I left my plans at the hanger and I need to order both halves of a front wheel
fairing for my -10. Search of the webstore pointed me to the RV-12 gear. Here
is why I need a new fairing.
>
> While on short final for the first of what was to be a couple of touch and goes
during my fly-off I heard a bit of a buzzing out front. Nothing serious I thought
since there was a bit of a cross wind I figured it was the nose wheel coming
straight as I got below the trees and out of the crosswind. I touched down
on the mains and started the flaps up, added power and picked right back up.
At about 50 feet I heard a pop. That is when a friend in another aircraft waiting
to take off called me on the radio asking if I planned to come back around
and pick up the pieces of my nose wheel pant from the runway. According to
him and another witness on the ground, when I first approached it looked like
the left side of the wheel pant was fluttering as if it had pulled through the
screws.When I hit the power for the go-around and picked up speed it "exploded"(their
words) into about 8 major pieces. Post-mortem of the wheel pant supports
the ground reports of potential pulled through m
ou!
> nting screws. The left screw holes are enlarged while the right ones held and
I pulled some smaller pieces from under these screws. I will be redoing the
wheel pant of course. Except this time I will be adding more glass to the sides
and spreading the load with tinnerman washers at a minimum.
>
> Eric Kallio
> N518RV 16 hours of phase 1 remaining.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332252#332252
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | seatbelt bolt bushings |
That's exactly what I found too=2C either too big ID or too large or too sm
all OD
From: daveleikam@wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: seatbelt bolt bushings
I went to the hardware store and bought some SS tubing with the correct ID
and OD and cut it to fit. The plans say to drill out the aluminum tubing s
upplied but that was a bit cumbersome.I did not find anything in the kit wh
ich had the correct ID for the bushings you speak of.
David LeikamRV10 N89DA
On Feb 27=2C 2011=2C at 9:44 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:Does anyone know whe
re in the kit the aluminum tubing is for making the bushing which go throug
h the selt belts and over the bolts which fasten the seatbelts to the airfr
ame??
Thanks
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Penetrating oil |
That's what I was looking for thanks.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Feb 27, 2011, at 6:36 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> This is the information you were looking for.
>
> =========
> Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque
on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut
from a "scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
>
> Penetrating oil..... Average load
> None ............ ......516 pounds
> WD-40 ................238 pounds
> PB Blaster ............214 pounds
> Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
> Kano Kroil ............106 pounds
> ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
>
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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