Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:47 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (g.combs)
2. 07:00 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Tim Olson)
3. 09:28 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Konrad/Conny)
4. 09:38 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Albert Gardner)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Tim Olson)
6. 10:10 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Konrad/Conny)
7. 11:17 AM - Re: Another RV-10 takes to the air. (Don McDonald)
8. 11:56 AM - Rear Floor Pans (Sean Stephens)
9. 01:09 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (rv10flyer)
10. 01:38 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (Byron&Donya)
11. 01:41 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (Ron B.)
12. 01:43 PM - Re: Re: Rear Floor Pans (Sean Stephens)
13. 03:48 PM - Re: Re: Rear Floor Pans (Sean Stephens)
14. 04:51 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (Ron B.)
15. 05:08 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (John Trollinger)
16. 06:45 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
17. 07:39 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (DLM)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
I mounted mine on the oil cooler
Mount and it works great. I installed
Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with or without.
It does work really good
On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
I can adjust the valve to run my oil
Temps where I want to. It takes around
5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In the winter
below around 25f I usually have
It closed almost all the way. Temps
Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little less on the
temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks <Robin@PaintTheWeb.com> wrote:
>
> Tim,
> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance
> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open.
> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow.
>
> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2
> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>
>
> Hi Rene',
> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>
> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
> it optimal.
>
> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>
> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
> and then could trim it a little.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"<rene@felker.com>
>>
>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
> scientific
>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a
> trip
>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem
> and
>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
> decrease.....lets
>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>
>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
> installed.
>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
> takeoff....I
>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max
> oil
>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>
>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
> promises,
>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer<robertbrunk@me.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>> --> <robertbrunk@me.com>
>>>
>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>>
>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>
>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>>
>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in
> oil
>> cooling?
>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
> with
>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the
> same
>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>>
>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're
> not
>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
> brand/model X,
>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
>> temps.
>>>>
>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could
> put
>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough
> in
>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
> definite
>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I
> need
>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone?
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Sounds good to me. I was planning to install it on the filter box
too. I think today I may go fly the plane quick, verify temps,
and leak check the cooler and lines that I just swapped...then
come back and install the valve.
Tim
On 3/13/2011 8:44 AM, g.combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "g.combs"<g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
> I mounted mine on the oil cooler
> Mount and it works great. I installed
> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with or without.
It does work really good
> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
> I can adjust the valve to run my oil
> Temps where I want to. It takes around
> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In the winter
below around 25f I usually have
> It closed almost all the way. Temps
> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little less on the
temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks<Robin@PaintTheWeb.com> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks<Robin@painttheweb.com>
>>
>> Tim,
>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance
>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open.
>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow.
>>
>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2
>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>
>> Hi Rene',
>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>>
>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
>> it optimal.
>>
>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>>
>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
>> and then could trim it a little.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"<rene@felker.com>
>>>
>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
>> scientific
>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a
>> trip
>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem
>> and
>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
>> decrease.....lets
>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>>
>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
>> installed.
>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
>> takeoff....I
>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max
>> oil
>>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>>
>>> Rene'
>>> 801-721-6080
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
>> promises,
>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer<robertbrunk@me.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>> --> <robertbrunk@me.com>
>>>>
>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>>>
>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in
>> oil
>>> cooling?
>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
>> with
>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the
>> same
>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're
>> not
>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
>> brand/model X,
>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
>>> temps.
>>>>>
>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could
>> put
>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough
>> in
>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
>> definite
>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I
>> need
>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone?
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Excuse the perhaps silly question, but how does this (oil cooler)
baffle splitter and/or oil cooler valve look like? A link to
someone's pics would be nice !?
Thank you all for any enlightenment...
do not archive
On Mar 13, 2011, at 7:44 AM, g.combs wrote:
> >
>
> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
> I mounted mine on the oil cooler
> Mount and it works great. I installed
> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with
> or without. It does work really good
> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
> I can adjust the valve to run my oil
> Temps where I want to. It takes around
> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment.
> In the winter below around 25f I usually have
> It closed almost all the way. Temps
> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little
> less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks <Robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Tim,
>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any
>> chance
>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full
>> open.
>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer
>> tomorrow.
>>
>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored
>> %2
>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>
>>
>> Hi Rene',
>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that
>> one.
>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if
>> there
>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a
>> difference,
>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>>
>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
>> it optimal.
>>
>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>>
>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
>> and then could trim it a little.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"<rene@felker.com>
>>>
>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
>> scientific
>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc.
>>> After a
>> trip
>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature
>>> problem
>> and
>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
>> decrease.....lets
>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>>
>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil
>>> temps up
>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
>> installed.
>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
>> takeoff....I
>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil
>>> cooler. Max
>> oil
>>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>>
>>> Rene'
>>> 801-721-6080
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a
>>> trip
>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
>> promises,
>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert
>>> Brunkenhoefer<robertbrunk@me.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>> --> <robertbrunk@me.com>
>>>>
>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the
>>>> last
>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs
>>>> KCRP
>>>>
>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the
>>>>> standard
>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite
>>> improvement in
>> oil
>>> cooling?
>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping,
>>>>>> punch
>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-
>>> side,
>> with
>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins
>>> slightly
>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3
>>> brands of
>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara
>>> and the
>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of
>>> the
>> same
>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons
>>> initials.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's
>>>>> great"....we're
>> not
>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
>> brand/model X,
>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase)
>>> in oil
>>> temps.
>>>>>
>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I
>>>>> could
>> put
>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm
>>> enough
>> in
>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
>> definite
>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either
>>> item. I
>> need
>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install
>>> these
>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone?
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
Summer air temps are well into the 100's here in Yuma and I had high oil
temps from the start. The usual inversion layer often gives us a 10 deg temp
rise on climb out so it takes awhile to get to cooler air. I swapped out the
original cooler for the 2006X but didn't get enough cooling. I then
installed a second cooler (2006X) on the right side using the same parts as
the left side. Had to turn the starter solenoid sideways but otherwise there
was enough room. Running in series 2 coolers seem to have solved my problem.
My engine is a 10:1 with 1 Lightspeed at 315hp. Still have to careful of
temps on the ground though. Once I had to wait for 12 F-18s to leave before
me and I was getting a little worried. In general though, the additional
cooler has solved my high oil temp problem.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Here's something I wrote up on the splitter:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090905/index.html
Here's the valve
http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14591.html?whatsnew=RV10-4%22-Air-Controller-for-Oil-Cooler-Kit&osCsid=b37752a6703d5b9341333d2980f13f54
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 3/13/2011 11:24 AM, Konrad/Conny wrote:
>
> Excuse the perhaps silly question, but how does this (oil cooler) baffle
> splitter and/or oil cooler valve look like? A link to someone's pics
> would be nice !?
> Thank you all for any enlightenment...
>
> do not archive
> On Mar 13, 2011, at 7:44 AM, g.combs wrote:
>
>> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>>
>> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
>> I mounted mine on the oil cooler
>> Mount and it works great. I installed
>> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with
>> or without. It does work really good
>> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
>> I can adjust the valve to run my oil
>> Temps where I want to. It takes around
>> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In
>> the winter below around 25f I usually have
>> It closed almost all the way. Temps
>> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little
>> less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
>> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
>>
>> Geoff
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>>
>>
>> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks <Robin@PaintTheWeb.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
>>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance
>>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open.
>>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
>>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
>>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer
>>> tomorrow.
>>>
>>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2
>>>
>>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Rene',
>>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
>>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
>>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
>>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
>>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
>>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
>>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
>>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
>>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
>>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
>>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
>>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
>>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
>>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
>>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
>>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
>>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>>>
>>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
>>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
>>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
>>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
>>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
>>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
>>> it optimal.
>>>
>>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
>>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
>>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
>>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
>>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
>>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
>>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
>>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
>>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>>>
>>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
>>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
>>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
>>> and then could trim it a little.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
>>> scientific
>>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a
>>> trip
>>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature
>>>> problem
>>> and
>>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
>>> decrease.....lets
>>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>>>
>>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil
>>>> temps up
>>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
>>> installed.
>>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
>>> takeoff....I
>>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max
>>> oil
>>>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>>>
>>>> Rene'
>>>> 801-721-6080
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
>>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
>>> promises,
>>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer<robertbrunk@me.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> <robertbrunk@me.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>>>>
>>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the
>>>>>> standard
>>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite
>>>> improvement in
>>> oil
>>>> cooling?
>>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
>>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
>>> with
>>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins
>>>> slightly
>>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
>>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
>>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the
>>> same
>>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're
>>> not
>>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
>>> brand/model X,
>>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in
>>>> oil
>>>> temps.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could
>>> put
>>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm
>>>> enough
>>> in
>>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
>>> definite
>>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I
>>> need
>>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
>>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone?
>>>>>> Tim
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Thank you Tim, that was exactly what I was looking for ;-)
do not archive
On Mar 13, 2011, at 10:36 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Here's something I wrote up on the splitter:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090905/index.html
>
> Here's the valve
> http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14591.html?whatsnew=RV10-4%22-Air-Controller-for-Oil-Cooler-Kit&osCsid=b37752a6703d5b9341333d2980f13f54
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 3/13/2011 11:24 AM, Konrad/Conny wrote:
>>
>> Excuse the perhaps silly question, but how does this (oil cooler)
>> baffle
>> splitter and/or oil cooler valve look like? A link to someone's pics
>> would be nice !?
>> Thank you all for any enlightenment...
>>
>> do not archive
>> On Mar 13, 2011, at 7:44 AM, g.combs wrote:
>>
>>> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>>>
>>> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
>>> I mounted mine on the oil cooler
>>> Mount and it works great. I installed
>>> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with
>>> or without. It does work really good
>>> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
>>> I can adjust the valve to run my oil
>>> Temps where I want to. It takes around
>>> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after
>>> adjustment. In
>>> the winter below around 25f I usually have
>>> It closed almost all the way. Temps
>>> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little
>>> less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
>>> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks <Robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> <Robin@painttheweb.com>
>>>>
>>>> Tim,
>>>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
>>>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any
>>>> chance
>>>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is
>>>> full open.
>>>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
>>>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a
>>>> place he
>>>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer
>>>> tomorrow.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored
>>>> %2
>>>>
>>>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>>>>
>>>> Robin
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>>>> Olson
>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Rene',
>>>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that
>>>> one.
>>>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go
>>>> through
>>>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if
>>>> there
>>>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a
>>>> difference,
>>>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
>>>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
>>>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
>>>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
>>>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
>>>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
>>>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
>>>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
>>>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
>>>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
>>>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
>>>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
>>>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>>>>
>>>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
>>>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
>>>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
>>>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
>>>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
>>>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
>>>> it optimal.
>>>>
>>>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
>>>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
>>>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
>>>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
>>>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
>>>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
>>>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
>>>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
>>>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>>>>
>>>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
>>>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
>>>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
>>>> and then could trim it a little.
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
>>>> scientific
>>>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>>>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc.
>>>>> After a
>>>> trip
>>>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature
>>>>> problem
>>>> and
>>>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
>>>> decrease.....lets
>>>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>>>>
>>>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil
>>>>> temps up
>>>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
>>>> installed.
>>>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
>>>> takeoff....I
>>>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil
>>>>> cooler. Max
>>>> oil
>>>>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>>>>
>>>>> Rene'
>>>>> 801-721-6080
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>>>>> Olson
>>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a
>>>>> trip
>>>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
>>>> promises,
>>>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer<robertbrunk@me.com
>>>>> >
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> --> <robertbrunk@me.com>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For
>>>>>> the last
>>>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs
>>>>>> KCRP
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the
>>>>>>> standard
>>>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite
>>>>> improvement in
>>>> oil
>>>>> cooling?
>>>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining,
>>>>>>>> stamping, punch
>>>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-
>>>>> by-side,
>>>> with
>>>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins
>>>>> slightly
>>>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3
>>>>> brands of
>>>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara
>>>>> and the
>>>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some
>>>>> of the
>>>> same
>>>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons
>>>>> initials.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's
>>>>>>> great"....we're
>>>> not
>>>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
>>>> brand/model X,
>>>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or
>>>>> increase) in
>>>>> oil
>>>>> temps.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I
>>>>>>> could
>>>> put
>>>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm
>>>>> enough
>>>> in
>>>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
>>>> definite
>>>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either
>>>>> item. I
>>>> need
>>>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install
>>>>> these
>>>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see
>>>>> it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Anyone?
>>>>>>> Tim
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Another RV-10 takes to the air. |
Way to fo Dave, welcome aboard.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________
__________________=0AFrom: David Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>=0ATo: RV-10
matronics <rv10-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Fri, March 11, 2011 10:56:16 PM
=0ASubject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 takes to the air.=0A=0A--> RV10-List m
essage posted by: David Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>=0A=0AAt about 4pm cen
tral standard time at KUES, kit #40496 flew to 4,200 feet for =0Aabout 16 m
inutes.- Everything worked and it flew great.- #1 cylinder was a bit
=0Ahot on climb but settled down after leveling off.=0AMan did it feel good
to bring the whole project to the final step.- Thanks to =0Aeveryone on
the list who provided me with information and help over the last 5 =0Ayears
.- What a ride!- See you at Oshkosh.=0A=0ADavid Leikam=0ARV10 =0AN89DA
======================0A=0A=0A
Message 8
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I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were a
bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling
on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull.
When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with
stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
Message 10
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As I recall a thin putty knife worked well for me. Helps act as a ramp to
slide over the rivets. Nice tight fit once in place..
Byron
N253RV Phase 1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
There were a few places where the parts were a tight fit. I don't recall that one
being impossible. Just keep trying from different sides and go easy. I'm sure
you'll get it in.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333772#333772
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get
them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime , etc.
then put them in and say its good.
Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place. :)
-Sean
On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"<wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
>
> Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were
a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when
pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull.
When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with
stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to
perfect.
>
> I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
Ok, figured out why I was having a hard time. This was another Doh!
moment for me. The shop heads were on the wrong side of the seat belt
attach brackets. One I fixed those, which was not fun at all, it went
in a lot easier. Oh well, not my first Doh! moment, but I'm running out
of parts, so maybe my last?
Thanks everyone and go easy on me. :)
-Sean #40303
On 3/13/11 3:40 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get
> them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime ,
> etc. then put them in and say its good.
>
> Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place. :)
>
> -Sean
>
> On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"<wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad.
>> Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the
>> flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl
>> through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you
>> may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below.
>> Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
>>
>> I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill
>> and rivet.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
>> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
>> Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
Sure now that you say that, it reminds me we had one side with the shop heads also.
With one side only I think we managed. It sure would have been easier with
both sides. Guess we had a DOH moment back then also. Sorry I could not remember
to advise you, but you figured it out and I'm sure that's better.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333799#333799
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
I used thin aluminum sheets as guides.. it allowed it to slip right
over the rivets, I then used them again to pull them out. Be very
careful or the floor pan will fold in half (ask me how I know)
John #40923
On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 2:53 PM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>
> I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The
> rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart
> the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the
> job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they would be near
impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging them,,, so I just
reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and primed, then shoe horned
them in. All the holes lined up perfect for the rivets.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean@stephensville.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:53:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
removing them is possible as the QB kits used to come with them
installed with a few blinds.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they
would be near impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging
them,,, so I just reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and
primed, then shoe horned them in. All the holes lined up perfect for
the rivets.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean@stephensville.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:53:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
<sean@stephensville.com>
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into
place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to
spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough
to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading
doing
it twice.
-Seabsp;
-===============
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