---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 03/13/11: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:47 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (g.combs) 2. 07:00 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Tim Olson) 3. 09:28 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Konrad/Conny) 4. 09:38 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Albert Gardner) 5. 09:39 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Tim Olson) 6. 10:10 AM - Re: 2006X oil cooler question (Konrad/Conny) 7. 11:17 AM - Re: Another RV-10 takes to the air. (Don McDonald) 8. 11:56 AM - Rear Floor Pans (Sean Stephens) 9. 01:09 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (rv10flyer) 10. 01:38 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (Byron&Donya) 11. 01:41 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (Ron B.) 12. 01:43 PM - Re: Re: Rear Floor Pans (Sean Stephens) 13. 03:48 PM - Re: Re: Rear Floor Pans (Sean Stephens) 14. 04:51 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (Ron B.) 15. 05:08 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (John Trollinger) 16. 06:45 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) 17. 07:39 PM - Re: Rear Floor Pans (DLM) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:47:24 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question From: "g.combs" Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great. I mounted mine on the oil cooler Mount and it works great. I installed Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with or without. It does work really good On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours. I can adjust the valve to run my oil Temps where I want to. It takes around 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In the winter below around 25f I usually have It closed almost all the way. Temps Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and No baffle splitter in the cooler mount. Geoff Sent from my iPhone Geoff On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > > Tim, > I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion > on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance > before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open. > As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it > is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he > purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow. > > http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2 > 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product > > Robin > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question > > > Hi Rene', > I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one. > Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through > all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there > were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference, > I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling, > and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they > saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want > people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when > you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that > you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read > about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar > sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need > to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy > coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly > identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have > wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though, > it sounds like it may actually be a good deal. > > I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was > also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler > and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days. > As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So > I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it > with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep > it optimal. > > Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that > installing any valve may add a little restriction even at > full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why > I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler > I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve. > So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler > housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the > back of the baffle gives too much interference with my > engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it. > > Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can > get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time > you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18" > and then could trim it a little. > > Tim > > > > > On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" >> >> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a > scientific >> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the >> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a > trip >> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem > and >> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature > decrease.....lets >> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs. >> >> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up >> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I > installed. >> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at > takeoff....I >> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max > oil >> temps have been a little over 200f. >> >> Rene' >> 801-721-6080 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip >> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the > promises, >> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap. >> Tim >> >> >> >> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer >> wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer >>> --> >>> >>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last >>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP >>> >>> Robert Brunkenhoefer >>> Sent from my Apple iPad >>> >>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >>> >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>>> >>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard >> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in > oil >> cooling? >>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch >> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, > with >> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly >> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of >> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the >> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the > same >> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials. >>>> >>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're > not >> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had > brand/model X, >> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil >> temps. >>>> >>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could > put >> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough > in >> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see > definite >> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I > need >> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these >> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it. >>>> >>>> Anyone? >>>> Tim >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:00:14 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question Sounds good to me. I was planning to install it on the filter box too. I think today I may go fly the plane quick, verify temps, and leak check the cooler and lines that I just swapped...then come back and install the valve. Tim On 3/13/2011 8:44 AM, g.combs wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "g.combs" > > Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great. > I mounted mine on the oil cooler > Mount and it works great. I installed > Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with or without. It does work really good > On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours. > I can adjust the valve to run my oil > Temps where I want to. It takes around > 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In the winter below around 25f I usually have > It closed almost all the way. Temps > Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and > No baffle splitter in the cooler mount. > > Geoff > > Sent from my iPhone Geoff > > > On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks >> >> Tim, >> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion >> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance >> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open. >> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it >> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he >> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow. >> >> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2 >> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product >> >> Robin >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >> Hi Rene', >> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one. >> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through >> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there >> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference, >> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling, >> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they >> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want >> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when >> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that >> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read >> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar >> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need >> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy >> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly >> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have >> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though, >> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal. >> >> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was >> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler >> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days. >> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So >> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it >> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep >> it optimal. >> >> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that >> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at >> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why >> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler >> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve. >> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler >> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the >> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my >> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it. >> >> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can >> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time >> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18" >> and then could trim it a little. >> >> Tim >> >> >> >> >> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" >>> >>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a >> scientific >>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the >>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a >> trip >>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem >> and >>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature >> decrease.....lets >>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs. >>> >>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up >>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I >> installed. >>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at >> takeoff....I >>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max >> oil >>> temps have been a little over 200f. >>> >>> Rene' >>> 801-721-6080 >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM >>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >>> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>> >>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip >>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the >> promises, >>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap. >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer >>> wrote: >>> >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>> --> >>>> >>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last >>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP >>>> >>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>> Sent from my Apple iPad >>>> >>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >>>> >>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>>>> >>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard >>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in >> oil >>> cooling? >>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch >>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, >> with >>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly >>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of >>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the >>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the >> same >>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials. >>>>> >>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're >> not >>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had >> brand/model X, >>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil >>> temps. >>>>> >>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could >> put >>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough >> in >>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see >> definite >>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I >> need >>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these >>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it. >>>>> >>>>> Anyone? >>>>> Tim >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:28:09 AM PST US From: Konrad/Conny Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question Excuse the perhaps silly question, but how does this (oil cooler) baffle splitter and/or oil cooler valve look like? A link to someone's pics would be nice !? Thank you all for any enlightenment... do not archive On Mar 13, 2011, at 7:44 AM, g.combs wrote: > > > > Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great. > I mounted mine on the oil cooler > Mount and it works great. I installed > Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with > or without. It does work really good > On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours. > I can adjust the valve to run my oil > Temps where I want to. It takes around > 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. > In the winter below around 25f I usually have > It closed almost all the way. Temps > Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little > less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and > No baffle splitter in the cooler mount. > > Geoff > > Sent from my iPhone Geoff > > > On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks > wrote: > >> >> Tim, >> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion >> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any >> chance >> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full >> open. >> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it >> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he >> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer >> tomorrow. >> >> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored >> %2 >> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product >> >> Robin >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >> >> >> Hi Rene', >> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that >> one. >> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through >> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if >> there >> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a >> difference, >> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling, >> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they >> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want >> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when >> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that >> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read >> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar >> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need >> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy >> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly >> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have >> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though, >> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal. >> >> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was >> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler >> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days. >> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So >> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it >> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep >> it optimal. >> >> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that >> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at >> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why >> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler >> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve. >> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler >> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the >> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my >> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it. >> >> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can >> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time >> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18" >> and then could trim it a little. >> >> Tim >> >> >> >> >> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" >>> >>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a >> scientific >>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the >>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. >>> After a >> trip >>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature >>> problem >> and >>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature >> decrease.....lets >>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs. >>> >>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil >>> temps up >>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I >> installed. >>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at >> takeoff....I >>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil >>> cooler. Max >> oil >>> temps have been a little over 200f. >>> >>> Rene' >>> 801-721-6080 >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM >>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >>> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>> >>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a >>> trip >>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the >> promises, >>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap. >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert >>> Brunkenhoefer >>> wrote: >>> >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>> --> >>>> >>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the >>>> last >>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs >>>> KCRP >>>> >>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>> Sent from my Apple iPad >>>> >>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >>>> >>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>>>> >>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the >>>>> standard >>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite >>> improvement in >> oil >>> cooling? >>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, >>>>>> punch >>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by- >>> side, >> with >>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins >>> slightly >>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 >>> brands of >>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara >>> and the >>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of >>> the >> same >>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons >>> initials. >>>>> >>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's >>>>> great"....we're >> not >>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had >> brand/model X, >>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) >>> in oil >>> temps. >>>>> >>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I >>>>> could >> put >>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm >>> enough >> in >>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see >> definite >>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either >>> item. I >> need >>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install >>> these >>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it. >>>>> >>>>> Anyone? >>>>> Tim >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:38:42 AM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question Summer air temps are well into the 100's here in Yuma and I had high oil temps from the start. The usual inversion layer often gives us a 10 deg temp rise on climb out so it takes awhile to get to cooler air. I swapped out the original cooler for the 2006X but didn't get enough cooling. I then installed a second cooler (2006X) on the right side using the same parts as the left side. Had to turn the starter solenoid sideways but otherwise there was enough room. Running in series 2 coolers seem to have solved my problem. My engine is a 10:1 with 1 Lightspeed at 315hp. Still have to careful of temps on the ground though. Once I had to wait for 12 F-18s to leave before me and I was getting a little worried. In general though, the additional cooler has solved my high oil temp problem. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:39:27 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question Here's something I wrote up on the splitter: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090905/index.html Here's the valve http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14591.html?whatsnew=RV10-4%22-Air-Controller-for-Oil-Cooler-Kit&osCsid=b37752a6703d5b9341333d2980f13f54 Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD do not archive On 3/13/2011 11:24 AM, Konrad/Conny wrote: > > Excuse the perhaps silly question, but how does this (oil cooler) baffle > splitter and/or oil cooler valve look like? A link to someone's pics > would be nice !? > Thank you all for any enlightenment... > > do not archive > On Mar 13, 2011, at 7:44 AM, g.combs wrote: > >> >> >> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great. >> I mounted mine on the oil cooler >> Mount and it works great. I installed >> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with >> or without. It does work really good >> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours. >> I can adjust the valve to run my oil >> Temps where I want to. It takes around >> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In >> the winter below around 25f I usually have >> It closed almost all the way. Temps >> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little >> less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and >> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount. >> >> Geoff >> >> Sent from my iPhone Geoff >> >> >> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote: >> >>> >>> Tim, >>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion >>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance >>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open. >>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it >>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he >>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer >>> tomorrow. >>> >>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2 >>> >>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product >>> >>> Robin >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM >>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >>> >>> >>> Hi Rene', >>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one. >>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through >>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there >>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference, >>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling, >>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they >>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want >>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when >>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that >>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read >>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar >>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need >>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy >>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly >>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have >>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though, >>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal. >>> >>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was >>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler >>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days. >>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So >>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it >>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep >>> it optimal. >>> >>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that >>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at >>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why >>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler >>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve. >>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler >>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the >>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my >>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it. >>> >>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can >>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time >>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18" >>> and then could trim it a little. >>> >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote: >>>> >>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a >>> scientific >>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the >>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a >>> trip >>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature >>>> problem >>> and >>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature >>> decrease.....lets >>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs. >>>> >>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil >>>> temps up >>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I >>> installed. >>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at >>> takeoff....I >>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max >>> oil >>>> temps have been a little over 200f. >>>> >>>> Rene' >>>> 801-721-6080 >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM >>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >>>> >>>> >>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip >>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the >>> promises, >>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap. >>>> Tim >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> --> >>>>> >>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last >>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP >>>>> >>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad >>>>> >>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the >>>>>> standard >>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite >>>> improvement in >>> oil >>>> cooling? >>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch >>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, >>> with >>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins >>>> slightly >>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of >>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the >>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the >>> same >>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials. >>>>>> >>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're >>> not >>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had >>> brand/model X, >>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in >>>> oil >>>> temps. >>>>>> >>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could >>> put >>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm >>>> enough >>> in >>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see >>> definite >>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I >>> need >>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these >>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it. >>>>>> >>>>>> Anyone? >>>>>> Tim >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:10:03 AM PST US From: Konrad/Conny Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question Thank you Tim, that was exactly what I was looking for ;-) do not archive On Mar 13, 2011, at 10:36 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Here's something I wrote up on the splitter: > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090905/index.html > > Here's the valve > http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14591.html?whatsnew=RV10-4%22-Air-Controller-for-Oil-Cooler-Kit&osCsid=b37752a6703d5b9341333d2980f13f54 > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD > do not archive > > > On 3/13/2011 11:24 AM, Konrad/Conny wrote: >> >> Excuse the perhaps silly question, but how does this (oil cooler) >> baffle >> splitter and/or oil cooler valve look like? A link to someone's pics >> would be nice !? >> Thank you all for any enlightenment... >> >> do not archive >> On Mar 13, 2011, at 7:44 AM, g.combs wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great. >>> I mounted mine on the oil cooler >>> Mount and it works great. I installed >>> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with >>> or without. It does work really good >>> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours. >>> I can adjust the valve to run my oil >>> Temps where I want to. It takes around >>> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after >>> adjustment. In >>> the winter below around 25f I usually have >>> It closed almost all the way. Temps >>> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little >>> less on the temps. I do have the 2006x installed and >>> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount. >>> >>> Geoff >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone Geoff >>> >>> >>> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks >>> wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Tim, >>>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion >>>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any >>>> chance >>>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is >>>> full open. >>>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it >>>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a >>>> place he >>>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer >>>> tomorrow. >>>> >>>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored >>>> %2 >>>> >>>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product >>>> >>>> Robin >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim >>>> Olson >>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM >>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi Rene', >>>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that >>>> one. >>>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go >>>> through >>>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if >>>> there >>>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a >>>> difference, >>>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling, >>>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they >>>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want >>>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when >>>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that >>>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read >>>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar >>>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need >>>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy >>>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly >>>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have >>>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though, >>>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal. >>>> >>>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was >>>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler >>>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days. >>>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So >>>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it >>>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep >>>> it optimal. >>>> >>>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that >>>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at >>>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why >>>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler >>>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve. >>>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler >>>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the >>>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my >>>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it. >>>> >>>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can >>>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time >>>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18" >>>> and then could trim it a little. >>>> >>>> Tim >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a >>>> scientific >>>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the >>>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. >>>>> After a >>>> trip >>>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature >>>>> problem >>>> and >>>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature >>>> decrease.....lets >>>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs. >>>>> >>>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil >>>>> temps up >>>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I >>>> installed. >>>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at >>>> takeoff....I >>>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil >>>>> cooler. Max >>>> oil >>>>> temps have been a little over 200f. >>>>> >>>>> Rene' >>>>> 801-721-6080 >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim >>>>> Olson >>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM >>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a >>>>> trip >>>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the >>>> promises, >>>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap. >>>>> Tim >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer>>>> > >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> >>>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For >>>>>> the last >>>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs >>>>>> KCRP >>>>>> >>>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer >>>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the >>>>>>> standard >>>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite >>>>> improvement in >>>> oil >>>>> cooling? >>>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, >>>>>>>> stamping, punch >>>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side- >>>>> by-side, >>>> with >>>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins >>>>> slightly >>>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 >>>>> brands of >>>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara >>>>> and the >>>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some >>>>> of the >>>> same >>>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons >>>>> initials. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's >>>>>>> great"....we're >>>> not >>>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had >>>> brand/model X, >>>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or >>>>> increase) in >>>>> oil >>>>> temps. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I >>>>>>> could >>>> put >>>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm >>>>> enough >>>> in >>>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see >>>> definite >>>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either >>>>> item. I >>>> need >>>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install >>>>> these >>>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see >>>>> it. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Anyone? >>>>>>> Tim >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:17:15 AM PST US From: Don McDonald Subject: Re: RV10-List: Another RV-10 takes to the air. Way to fo Dave, welcome aboard.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________ __________________=0AFrom: David Leikam =0ATo: RV-10 matronics =0ASent: Fri, March 11, 2011 10:56:16 PM =0ASubject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 takes to the air.=0A=0A--> RV10-List m essage posted by: David Leikam =0A=0AAt about 4pm cen tral standard time at KUES, kit #40496 flew to 4,200 feet for =0Aabout 16 m inutes.- Everything worked and it flew great.- #1 cylinder was a bit =0Ahot on climb but settled down after leveling off.=0AMan did it feel good to bring the whole project to the final step.- Thanks to =0Aeveryone on the list who provided me with information and help over the last 5 =0Ayears .- What a ride!- See you at Oshkosh.=0A=0ADavid Leikam=0ARV10 =0AN89DA ======================0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:56:39 AM PST US From: Sean Stephens Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice. -Sean #40303 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 01:09:21 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Floor Pans From: "rv10flyer" Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect. I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:38:49 PM PST US From: "Byron&Donya" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans As I recall a thin putty knife worked well for me. Helps act as a ramp to slide over the rivets. Nice tight fit once in place.. Byron N253RV Phase 1 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice. -Sean #40303 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:41:35 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Floor Pans From: "Ron B." There were a few places where the parts were a tight fit. I don't recall that one being impossible. Just keep trying from different sides and go easy. I'm sure you'll get it in. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333772#333772 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:43:06 PM PST US From: Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Floor Pans Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime , etc. then put them in and say its good. Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place. :) -Sean On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer" > > Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect. > > I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet. > > -------- > Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 > Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. > Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768 > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 03:48:39 PM PST US From: Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Floor Pans Ok, figured out why I was having a hard time. This was another Doh! moment for me. The shop heads were on the wrong side of the seat belt attach brackets. One I fixed those, which was not fun at all, it went in a lot easier. Oh well, not my first Doh! moment, but I'm running out of parts, so maybe my last? Thanks everyone and go easy on me. :) -Sean #40303 On 3/13/11 3:40 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get > them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime , > etc. then put them in and say its good. > > Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place. :) > > -Sean > > On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer" >> >> Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. >> Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the >> flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl >> through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you >> may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below. >> Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect. >> >> I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill >> and rivet. >> >> -------- >> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 >> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. >> Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 04:51:42 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Floor Pans From: "Ron B." Sure now that you say that, it reminds me we had one side with the shop heads also. With one side only I think we managed. It sure would have been easier with both sides. Guess we had a DOH moment back then also. Sorry I could not remember to advise you, but you figured it out and I'm sure that's better. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333799#333799 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 05:08:36 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans From: John Trollinger I used thin aluminum sheets as guides.. it allowed it to slip right over the rivets, I then used them again to pull them out. Be very careful or the floor pan will fold in half (ask me how I know) John #40923 On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 2:53 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The > rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart > the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the > job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice. > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:45:24 PM PST US From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they would be near impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging them,,, so I just reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and primed, then shoe horned them in. All the holes lined up perfect for the rivets. David Clifford RV-10 Builder Howell, MI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:53:46 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice. -Sean #40303 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:50 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans removing them is possible as the QB kits used to come with them installed with a few blinds. ----- Original Message ----- From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 6:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they would be near impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging them,,, so I just reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and primed, then shoe horned them in. All the holes lined up perfect for the rivets. David Clifford RV-10 Builder Howell, MI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:53:46 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice. -Seabsp; -=============== ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.