Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:11 AM - Re: fuel tank countersinks (Rick Lark)
2. 06:10 PM - Door Incident (dhsa@mac.com)
3. 07:02 PM - Re: NACA Vent Insect Screens (charliewaffles)
4. 07:31 PM - Re: fuel tank countersinks (Billy & Tami Britton)
5. 07:42 PM - Re: Door Incident (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
6. 10:46 PM - Re: Door Incident (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank countersinks |
Sorry guys/Bill, I meant to say "no reason not to countersink".
-
Rick
--- On Wed, 5/4/11, Rick Lark <larkrv10@yahoo.ca> wrote:
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
Received: Wednesday, May 4, 2011, 1:04 AM
Bill, I like the way you think.- Dimpling sounds like a great idea, far s
tronger.- I can't see any reason to countersink either. I assume you had
no trouble getting the rear baffle in place when you had the tank sealant a
pplied?
-
Thx,-- Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Tue, 5/3/11, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
From: Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
Received: Tuesday, May 3, 2011, 12:54 PM
Rick, I know the instructions say to countersink, but I dimpled mine and
everything turned out perfectly.- Dimpled the skins and the rear baffles.
Much faster, more uniform holes, etc.......
Just a thought.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George@hurlburt.af.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 6:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
> <Neal.George@hurlburt.af.mil>
>
> Rick -
>
> The tank skins are barely thick enough to accept the countersink, thus
> leaving a thin, fragile hole edge that is easily damaged by the clecos
> used to hold things in place.- Leaving a number of holes with their ful
l
> thickness of metal and using those holes to align and clamp the
> structure gives the builder a better chance of proper fit-up and final
> assembly.
>
> neal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Lark
>
> Hi all
>
> I'm just about to countersink the tank skins to the rear baffle, and
> can't figure out why we are to leave every 10th hole untouched only to
> go back later and then complete the countersink and rivetting etc.
> Sounds like it has something to do with alignment???
>
> I must be missing something.- Can anyone explain?
>
> Thx,- Rick
>
> #40956
> St; http://f=- - - - - ---- List Contributionsp; -
- - - - - - - - - &bsp;-->
Message 2
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I had an incident in the Dallas Texas area last week when the pilot door of my
RV-10 flew off the aircraft at 3000 feet. I was lucky enough to land at McKinney,
Texas without injury. The plane sustained damage to the stabilator, area surrounding
the door and rear pilot side window. We believe the door is in a lake
and unrecoverable. The NTSB and FAA are investigating. Due to this investigation
I will not comment any further as to the cause of the incident until their
analysis is complete. I will advise ALL RV-10 owners that the Vans safety latch
was installed and did not function as designed.
I am out of the Atlanta area and my plane is in McKinney Texas at Aero Country.
I am in desperate need of someone with RV experience in the Dallas area to do
the repair work. Any suggestions, recommendations or contacts would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=338944#338944
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: NACA Vent Insect Screens |
I wanted a built in but easy to replace bug screen - just in case. So I got some replacement window screen fiberglass mesh from the home depot (http://www.homedepot.com/Doors-Windows-Screens-Tools-Accessories/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarpf/R-100390885/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) for 6 dollars. I cut out a 5x5 inch square patch and put them on the end of the Naca vent and then slid on the CAT tube which holds the screen in place. It's hard to see from the outside and is very durable. Lookgs good too when you look inside for inspection.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=338957#338957
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank countersinks |
That is the exact reason Vans told me not to dimple is because of
fitting the baffle between the skins/ into position after dimpled. I
assure you, it's a non-issue. When dimpled, they still drop right in.
Bill
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 5:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
Sorry guys/Bill, I meant to say "no reason not to countersink".
Rick
--- On Wed, 5/4/11, Rick Lark <larkrv10@yahoo.ca> wrote:
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Received: Wednesday, May 4, 2011, 1:04 AM
Bill, I like the way you think. Dimpling sounds like a
great idea, far stronger. I can't see any reason to countersink either.
I assume you had no trouble getting the rear baffle in place when you
had the tank sealant applied?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Tue, 5/3/11, Billy & Tami Britton
<william@gbta.net> wrote:
From: Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Received: Tuesday, May 3, 2011, 12:54 PM
<william@gbta.net>
Rick, I know the instructions say to countersink, but I
dimpled mine and
everything turned out perfectly. Dimpled the skins and
the rear baffles.
Much faster, more uniform holes, etc.......
Just a thought.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ"
<Neal.George@hurlburt.af.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 6:41 AM
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel tank countersinks
505 TRS/DOJ"
> <Neal.George@hurlburt.af.mil>
>
> Rick -
>
> The tank skins are barely thick enough to accept the
countersink, thus
> leaving a thin, fragile hole edge that is easily
damaged by the clecos
> used to hold things in place. Leaving a number of
holes with their full
> thickness of metal and using those holes to align and
clamp the
> structure gives the builder a better chance of proper
fit-up and final
> assembly.
>
> neal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Lark
>
> Hi all
>
> I'm just about to countersink the tank skins to the
rear baffle, and
> can't figure out why we are to leave every 10th hole
untouched only to
> go back later and then complete the countersink and
rivetting etc.
> Sounds like it has something to do with alignment???
>
> I must be missing something. Can anyone explain?
>
> Thx, Rick
>
> #40956
> St; http://f= - List Contributionsp;
&bsp;-->
=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Door Incident |
My door was replaced by Stephan Breier at Fazar fbo at Ft.Worth Mecham. He did
a great job.
Robert Brunkenhoefer
Sent from my Apple iPad
On May 4, 2011, at 8:04 PM, "dhsa@mac.com" <dhsa@mac.com> wrote:
>
> I had an incident in the Dallas Texas area last week when the pilot door of my
RV-10 flew off the aircraft at 3000 feet. I was lucky enough to land at McKinney,
Texas without injury. The plane sustained damage to the stabilator, area
surrounding the door and rear pilot side window. We believe the door is in
a lake and unrecoverable. The NTSB and FAA are investigating. Due to this investigation
I will not comment any further as to the cause of the incident until
their analysis is complete. I will advise ALL RV-10 owners that the Vans
safety latch was installed and did not function as designed.
>
> I am out of the Atlanta area and my plane is in McKinney Texas at Aero Country.
I am in desperate need of someone with RV experience in the Dallas area to
do the repair work. Any suggestions, recommendations or contacts would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=338944#338944
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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|
I hate to say this=2C but until the directions in the plans are re written
on how far the pins should penetrate into the aluminum fuselage members=2C
how the fiberglass return on the cabin top should be so snug that a busines
s card can't penetrate between the locked door and the cabin top return=2C
pilots will keep losing doors even with the stupid=2C ugly=2C drag inducing
latch.
Having a big gap with a compressible seal leaves one guessing at to whether
the door is actually closed. A block of foam in the center of the door lam
inating the two halves in more places would go a long way to preventing the
low pressure on the outside of the door during flight from bowing the door
.
Vans also needs to provide more length to the pins so when installed correc
tly they go at least 3/4 to 1 inch into the aluminum fuse door opening.
At least there is another door on the opposite side to look at.
Just thinking out loud.
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Incident
> From: robertbrunk@me.com
> Date: Wed=2C 4 May 2011 21:36:28 -0500
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> My door was replaced by Stephan Breier at Fazar fbo at Ft.Worth Mecham.
He did a great job.
>
>
> Robert Brunkenhoefer
> Sent from my Apple iPad
>
> On May 4=2C 2011=2C at 8:04 PM=2C "dhsa@mac.com" <dhsa@mac.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > I had an incident in the Dallas Texas area last week when the pilot doo
r of my RV-10 flew off the aircraft at 3000 feet. =C2 I was lucky enough to
land at McKinney=2C Texas without injury. =C2 The plane sustained damage t
o the stabilator=2C area surrounding the door and rear pilot side window.
=C2 We believe the door is in a lake and unrecoverable. =C2 The NTSB and FA
A are investigating. =C2 Due to this investigation I will not comment any f
urther as to the cause of the incident until their analysis is complete.
=C2 =C2 I will advise ALL RV-10 owners that the Vans safety latch was insta
lled and did not function as designed.
> >
> > I am out of the Atlanta area and my plane is in McKinney Texas at Aero
Country. =C2 I am in desperate need of someone with RV experience in the Da
llas area to do the repair work. =C2 Any suggestions=2C recommendations or
contacts would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=338944#338944
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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