Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:33 AM - Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) (Phillip Perry)
2. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: Aircraft winch recommendation (Rene Felker)
3. 07:43 AM - Re: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) (gary)
4. 08:05 AM - Re: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) (preid)
5. 08:28 AM - Re: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) (preid)
6. 09:00 AM - cabin top filling sealing (pilotdds)
7. 09:26 AM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (Carl Froehlich)
8. 09:35 AM - engine run ups (DLM)
9. 09:49 AM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (preid)
10. 09:54 AM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (Lew Gallagher)
11. 11:33 AM - Re: Re: Aircraft winch recommendation (Tim Olson)
12. 12:40 PM - Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (billz)
13. 01:04 PM - Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation (Bill Watson)
14. 01:07 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (Bill Watson)
15. 01:22 PM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (Bill Watson)
16. 01:30 PM - Re: Aircraft winch recommendation (E & T Andrews)
17. 01:31 PM - Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation (Bill Watson)
18. 03:19 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (David)
19. 03:43 PM - Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation (Strasnuts)
20. 04:19 PM - Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation (Chris Colohan)
21. 04:43 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (DLM)
22. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation (Bill Watson)
23. 05:07 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (Jim Berry)
24. 05:18 PM - Re: Re: Aircraft winch recommendation (Albert Gardner)
25. 05:28 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (Phillip Perry)
26. 05:45 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (Kelly McMullen)
27. 06:10 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (billz)
28. 06:45 PM - RV-10 fly in? (Donald Orrick)
29. 06:47 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (maca2790)
30. 07:29 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (Kelly McMullen)
31. 08:02 PM - Rudder Stops? (Dave Saylor)
32. 08:03 PM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (Bob Kaufmann)
33. 08:22 PM - Re: Rudder Stops? (Kelly McMullen)
34. 08:53 PM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
35. 09:05 PM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (John Gonzalez)
36. 09:08 PM - Re: Rudder Stops? (pilotdds)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) |
I'm getting ready to drop the windows into the doors and thought I'd ask a
quick question before I do something stupid.
What has everyone found to be effective in cleaning the plexi prior to
gluing them into place? I want to make sure I'm using something that will
clean the surface adequately but not craze the glass.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft winch recommendation |
At my old hanger...in the winter the snow plow would leave about two feet of
snow in front of the hanger, but the hanger shaded another 10 - 15 feet,
which all turns to ice. The powertow has a tire that is about 5 - 6 inches
wide (contact area). I had a bag of sand in my hanger and just spread some
on the ice. Worked great. In my new hanger, the floor is smooth concrete
and I have to push down on the powertow to get it started some time. I get
less traction on the concrete than I did on the ice and sand...
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aircraft winch recommendation
"In the winter, I'm not
sure how a power tow would work for me. I'm sure if
they make them with spike tires they'd work though,
but hopefully not tear up the pavement. The winch
works best for winter I'd think, because when I need
it, it's because the snow plow left slush or ice in
front of my hangar and you can't even walk. There
the winch is priceless."
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 5/29/2011 12:56 PM, Jim Berry wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Berry"<jimberry@qwest.net>
>
> Dick,
>
> Look at the Harbor Freight camouflage winch with remote control for $100,
discounted to $70. Works well. I think Tim has this winch also.
>
> Jim Berry
> N15JB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341384#341384
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) |
Do not clean your plexi with any commercial cleaners prior to installing.
Many of them have components in them to help in removal of dirt the next
time around and leave a clear film that can interfere with adhesion. Clean
edges with water and alcohol prior to installing. After cure clean with
normal cleaners. I use 3M products available from NAPA.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 8:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning)
I'm getting ready to drop the windows into the doors and thought I'd ask a
quick question before I do something stupid.
What has everyone found to be effective in cleaning the plexi prior to
gluing them into place? I want to make sure I'm using something that will
clean the surface adequately but not craze the glass.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) |
I sanded the area to be bonded and wiped down the area with alcohol and
water. Like Proseal, weldon will bond to anything, just cure more
quickly.
For sure wipe down the area after sanding and keep it clean but don't
use any cleaners before bonding.
From: Phillip Perry
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 6:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning)
I'm getting ready to drop the windows into the doors and thought I'd ask
a quick question before I do something stupid.
What has everyone found to be effective in cleaning the plexi prior to
gluing them into place? I want to make sure I'm using something that
will clean the surface adequately but not craze the glass.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning) |
forgot to mention. Do not put too much pressure on one area of the plexi
as it is being cured, the weldon will get really hot and cause the
crazing. I had fingers that were set around the doors and held the plexi
in place.
As a reminder too- door windows and windscreen are now sold by
Desser/Cee Baileys ready to install. I am not selling them but trying to
make life easier for anyone behind me.
Pascal
From: preid
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning)
I sanded the area to be bonded and wiped down the area with alcohol and
water. Like Proseal, weldon will bond to anything, just cure more
quickly.
For sure wipe down the area after sanding and keep it clean but don't
use any cleaners before bonding.
From: Phillip Perry
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 6:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Plexi-Prep (Cleaning)
I'm getting ready to drop the windows into the doors and thought I'd ask
a quick question before I do something stupid.
What has everyone found to be effective in cleaning the plexi prior to
gluing them into place? I want to make sure I'm using something that
will clean the surface adequately but not craze the glass.
Thanks,
Phil
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 6
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| Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a
material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime
r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
Message 7
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| Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
After the fiberglass work is done around the windows and door, two coats of
smooth prime put on with a roller, sand, then epoxy primer. Same for all
the fiberglass.
Carl
RV-8A (650 hrs)
RV-10 (getting the fuselage ready for the paint booth.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a
material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of
primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks
Jim
Message 8
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Just saw a .25 inch half moon in a friend's new prop. I got a smaller
similar nick near the tip when doing a hot start and the engine surged.
I have received smaller nicks while doing run ups. I know that this goes
against my CFI training but for an engine that only I fly I do an
ignition check while taxiing and the power check is when power is
gradually applied for takeoff. I get the aircraft rolling before
applying full power to avoid picking up stones in the prop. Any engine
hiccup is cause for an immediate abort. I hardly see a nick anymore.
Obviously this technique does not work when flying an unfamiliar
aircraft or from a short field but in many cases it protects the prop.
After all the blades are about $1500+ each.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top filling sealing |
Vans tells one to lay epoxy thinned with MEK and brushing it on 3-4
times. It worked for me with minor pinholes. Time consuming and serious
attention to detail. I think the filler/ smooth prime idea of rolling it
on would be a solution I would consider if I had to do it again. It was
cost that stopped me from doing it initially, as epoxy is far less
expensive than the cost of cans of smoothprime.
From: pilotdds
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 8:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking
on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application
of primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing
-thanks Jim
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top filling sealing |
Hey Jim,
First I scuffed up the glaze of the jell coat (I do all sanding with a
PorterCable random orbital sander w/ 220 grit pads), which exposes
hidden pinholes and gives a good surface for bonding. (all fiberglass)
Since I had epoxy/resin (west system) handy, I just mixed up a slurry
with microbeads and applied it with a bondo spreader to fill the
pinholes. One coat, let it set up, then sand in prep for epoxy primer,
which when sanded properly leaves a nice unblemished surface ready for
paint.
All this fiberglass/paint stuff is pretty labor intensive, but rewarding
when you get it right!
Later, - Lew
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft winch recommendation |
Cool, that's good to know. I'm not a huge fan of using sand
around the airport ramp...or heaven forbid, salt. But it's
good to know that this gives you good results. I think I'll
always have the winch as a fallback, but after seeing Albert's
homemade tow, I may do that as a summer fun project. I
also want to build a tire bead-breaker. A couple of good things
to keep me out of trouble since I don't have a plane to build
and it leaves me at a loss for what to do sometimes.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 5/30/2011 9:11 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker"<rene@felker.com>
>
> At my old hanger...in the winter the snow plow would leave about two feet of
> snow in front of the hanger, but the hanger shaded another 10 - 15 feet,
> which all turns to ice. The powertow has a tire that is about 5 - 6 inches
> wide (contact area). I had a bag of sand in my hanger and just spread some
> on the ice. Worked great. In my new hanger, the floor is smooth concrete
> and I have to push down on the powertow to get it started some time. I get
> less traction on the concrete than I did on the ice and sand...
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 11:04 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aircraft winch recommendation
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>
> "In the winter, I'm not
> sure how a power tow would work for me. I'm sure if
> they make them with spike tires they'd work though,
> but hopefully not tear up the pavement. The winch
> works best for winter I'd think, because when I need
> it, it's because the snow plow left slush or ice in
> front of my hangar and you can't even walk. There
> the winch is priceless."
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 5/29/2011 12:56 PM, Jim Berry wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Berry"<jimberry@qwest.net>
>>
>> Dick,
>>
>> Look at the Harbor Freight camouflage winch with remote control for $100,
> discounted to $70. Works well. I think Tim has this winch also.
>>
>> Jim Berry
>> N15JB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341384#341384
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
I'm finally getting around to working on my quick build fuselage. As I've read
from others, you start with dis-assembly of some parts, follow the plans to make
sure everything is done correctly as you reassemble. I've gotten to the task
of removing the landing gear fittings. Boy is this a pain!!
I'm having trouble getting the bolts out and am wondering how I'm ever going to
get them back in, when the time comes. Any insights on the process of removing
these bolts and then getting them back in would be greatly appreciated. I'm
sure there are many techniques that work better than what I've been trying.
Thanks in advance.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341506#341506
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation |
I may have written it - not sure.
About 5 years ago, I bought a li-ion driver from Costco - Durofix was
the brand, gray 2 tone gray and black. Still love it and it's still
going strong.
I recently decided to get a second one just so I'd always have one close
by. I think it was from Costco too but could have been HomeDepot.
Channel Lock is the brand, it's blue, and it came with a variety of
features - a 90 deg fitting, LED light, more bits.
One small difference - the new blue one has a fwd/rev switch separate
from the trigger - thought that would be good. The grey one has a
rocker type trigger - press the bottom for fwd, the top for reverse.
Challenging to remember which is which so I would initially drive in the
wrong direction.
Turns out, the ability to toggle between forward and reverse without
shifting your grip is more useful than getting it right each time.
Plus, the fwd/rev switch on the new blue one is often hit accidently, as
is the LED light which I've never needed.
Conclusion - I prefer the old one - simple, fewest options, certainly
long lasting.
On 5/28/2011 6:06 PM, Seano wrote:
> I bought the blue one from Costco because they usually carry good
> products. It broke in a week and I had to send it back.
> Scott S has a Skill brand, I believe, it works well. Maybe I will see
> if I can break his.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Robin Marks <mailto:Robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> ;
> rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 28, 2011 3:43 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Small Drill Driver Recommendation
>
> About a year ago someone on the RV list recommended a small Li Ion
> drill driver. I looked in the archives but could not find the
> thread. Anyone out there with a preference on this type of tool?
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
Don't do it? Not being trying to be facetious but some disassemble,
some don't.
On 5/30/2011 3:37 PM, billz wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>
> I'm finally getting around to working on my quick build fuselage. As I've read
from others, you start with dis-assembly of some parts, follow the plans to
make sure everything is done correctly as you reassemble. I've gotten to the
task of removing the landing gear fittings. Boy is this a pain!!
>
> I'm having trouble getting the bolts out and am wondering how I'm ever going
to get them back in, when the time comes. Any insights on the process of removing
these bolts and then getting them back in would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sure there are many techniques that work better than what I've been trying.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341506#341506
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top filling sealing |
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with
Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it
off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might put over
it. And in fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have
missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you
are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can
move on. After the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a
decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use
a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with
most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up
using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it
because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and
priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that
way... but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
assembly and flight" Watson
> I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking
> on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application
> of primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing
> -thanks Jim
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft winch recommendation |
Dick
I use a simple =2470 winch that I bought from ALDI on special. It runs
off a 12 V battery, and has a remote control and cable control feature.
I have used the winch for the last 5 months and it works fine. The winch
is slow ... but allows me to easily pull my 10 into the hangar by myself.
Unrolling the cable is no hassle as there is a dial to turn, which allows
the cable to be pulled out by hand in about 15 seconds.
Regards
Evan
RV10 VH-OSH
From: Dick & Vicki Sipp
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 12:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft winch recommendation
Looking for winch recommendations for pulling RV-10 into hangar.
Dick Sipp
RV-10 360 hours
inclined hangar ramp
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation |
I see that some responses are referring to bigger drill/drivers. Here
is a picture of the 2 described below.
On 5/30/2011 4:01 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> I may have written it - not sure.
>
> About 5 years ago, I bought a li-ion driver from Costco - Durofix was
> the brand, gray 2 tone gray and black. Still love it and it's still
> going strong.
>
> I recently decided to get a second one just so I'd always have one
> close by. I think it was from Costco too but could have been
> HomeDepot. Channel Lock is the brand, it's blue, and it came with a
> variety of features - a 90 deg fitting, LED light, more bits.
>
> One small difference - the new blue one has a fwd/rev switch separate
> from the trigger - thought that would be good. The grey one has a
> rocker type trigger - press the bottom for fwd, the top for reverse.
> Challenging to remember which is which so I would initially drive in
> the wrong direction.
> Turns out, the ability to toggle between forward and reverse without
> shifting your grip is more useful than getting it right each time.
> Plus, the fwd/rev switch on the new blue one is often hit accidently,
> as is the LED light which I've never needed.
>
> Conclusion - I prefer the old one - simple, fewest options, certainly
> long lasting.
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
Early in the program, some builders found a few odds and ends under
the floorboards when they opened them up. (clecos, rivits, etc.)
However, it seems that later on this problem was solved at the QB
factory. I started to take mine apart and had a terrible time with
the left gear weldment. It was clean under the floor, so I elected
not to open up the right side. I felt like I was risking doing some
damage while undoing a job that I had paid to have done by the
factory. No regrets in my decision and if I were to build another one
I would not consider doing it. Some folks planned to put in sound
deadening material or insulation while having the floors out. I think
that someone on the forum has figured out a way to do that without
taking the floors up. In the end, of course, this is a decision you
get to make. There are several builders who easily and quickly
removed and reinstalled the gear weldments and floors. I was not one
of them!
Just my $.02 worth.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On May 30, 2011, at 3:37 PM, billz wrote:
>
> I'm finally getting around to working on my quick build fuselage.
> As I've read from others, you start with dis-assembly of some
> parts, follow the plans to make sure everything is done correctly
> as you reassemble. I've gotten to the task of removing the landing
> gear fittings. Boy is this a pain!!
>
> I'm having trouble getting the bolts out and am wondering how I'm
> ever going to get them back in, when the time comes. Any insights
> on the process of removing these bolts and then getting them back
> in would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure there are many
> techniques that work better than what I've been trying.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341506#341506
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation |
Bill that's the one I bought and had to return. Maybe I'll get another one if
it's working for you. I like the accessories and being able to straighten the
handle. Mine broke so fast I was afraid to buy another one.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341524#341524
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation |
Personally, I have one of these Makita drivers:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=makita+fd01w&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15995060857694302261&sa=X&ei=tSTkTfHTAob0swOkwqEW&ved=0CFgQ8wIwAQ
It works great. The only thing which I'd do differently is have an option
for adding a chuck -- having to use hex bits for everything gets old.
(Recently I acquired a set of collets for this, perhaps this will make me
happier.)
Chris
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 2:43 PM, Robin Marks <Robin@painttheweb.com> wrote:
> About a year ago someone on the RV list recommended a small Li Ion drill
> driver. I looked in the archives but could not find the thread. Anyone out
> there with a preference on this type of tool?
>
>
> Robin
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
Why disassemble; you paid to have someone else assemble and two other
compliance inspections performed. Make a visual inspection but don't undo
something for which you already paid. Some take the fuel tanks off the QB
wings; again why? They have already been tested at the QB facility. If they
leak, it will be your problem now or at some future time.It is possible to
create a problem during the tank removal. Some will install a stall warning
system; others will rely on an EFIS warning. If you fly the airplane and do
not feel the impending stall you are comatose or embalmed. The stick shakes
very noticeably. My point is taking everything apart costs you time and
money. Taking things apart can also cause problems noticed or unnoticed
during reassembly. That's the reason the post annual inspection test flight
is one of the riskier of the year.
----- Original Message -----
From: "billz" <billz@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 12:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
>
> I'm finally getting around to working on my quick build fuselage. As I've
> read from others, you start with dis-assembly of some parts, follow the
> plans to make sure everything is done correctly as you reassemble. I've
> gotten to the task of removing the landing gear fittings. Boy is this a
> pain!!
>
> I'm having trouble getting the bolts out and am wondering how I'm ever
> going to get them back in, when the time comes. Any insights on the
> process of removing these bolts and then getting them back in would be
> greatly appreciated. I'm sure there are many techniques that work better
> than what I've been trying.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341506#341506
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation |
Yes, it has worked fine for me so far. I've used the 90deg thing once
and that made it worthwhile.
That Makita looks real nice. I'd still always want my simple gray one
just because at $30, it just does 80% of the jobs outstandingly. I
forgot the price on the blue one but I recall it was well priced too.
I have a 18volt driver but hardly ever use it on the plane. Built a
deck with it but for the plane, the air tools and the little driver for
the screws has worked well.
Bill
On 5/30/2011 6:40 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"<sean@braunandco.com>
>
> Bill that's the one I bought and had to return. Maybe I'll get another one if
it's working for you. I like the accessories and being able to straighten the
handle. Mine broke so fast I was afraid to buy another one.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
I was one of those that put insulation under the floor. If you want to go that
route you can drill out some of the rivets and pull the aft edge of the floor
boards up, without completely removing them. Use the rivet lines on the bottom
to make templates for pieces of insulation to fit between the stiffeners.
If you don't want insulation, just tape a section of 1" tubing to your shop vac.
and slide it through the lightening holes to suck out anything left under the
floors by the QB guys.
Either way, there is no need to remove the landing gear fittings.
Jim Berry
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341532#341532
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft winch recommendation |
This is the Kitplanes article that inspired me to build my own electric tow
bar.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
I took one of mine out because of a screw up that I made. It was a
nightmare and there wasn't anything to see after I pulled it (I pulled the
floor skin "just because").
I'd leave them right where they are, but I'd consider loosening all of the
AN hardware to neutral and then re-tourqing so you know they're correct.
Phil
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
No. Do not loosen and retorque. First of all you cannot accurately
measure torque that was applied. All you are doing is removing more of
the cad plating on the bolt. An AN-3 properly torqued, when loosened
later will likely take 50-80 in/lbs to break free, even though only
25"/lbs plus the resistance of the locknut were applied to begin with.
Huge waste of time that accomplishes nothing.
It is easy to remove the few pop-rivets that hold the floor, to vacuum
underneath and a bit harder to push insulation in, but very doable
without removing fittings.
On 5/30/2011 5:25 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I took one of mine out because of a screw up that I made. It was a
> nightmare and there wasn't anything to see after I pulled it (I pulled
> the floor skin "just because").
>
> I'd leave them right where they are, but I'd consider loosening all of
> the AN hardware to neutral and then re-tourqing so you know they're
> correct.
>
> Phil
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
I appreciate all of your comments. It's great to learn from experience.
I'm all for taking the simple approach. I'm not planning to put insulation under
the floor, but wasn't sure if I needed access for some other reason. Looks
like a little cleaning and on to the next step.
Thank you,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341542#341542
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Everyone,
Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
destination that will appeal to a majority?
just wondering.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
I know the feeling, I took the bolts out of my QB last week. It took nearly 6
hours to dissemble everything. There was a lot of damage done to the bolts during
the process and they will need to be replaced.
I reamed out the holes that were tight and left the others alone but it left me
wondering how on earth they put the bolts in with them being so tight?
Under the floor pans there was a little dust and some aluminium savings but otherwise
it looks pretty good. I'm not planning on Insulating I just wanted to prime
under the floor pans.
cheers
John MacCallum
QB 41016
VHDUU
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341545#341545
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
If you do the factory stall warning vane, removal of the left tank is
necessary. Regardless of aerodynamic warning, IMHO, either an AOA or
stall warning system should be mandatory, as it is for certified planes.
Not every pilot is observant of aerodynamic warnings when occupied with
other tasks in the cockpit, and a horn, voice or flashing light is
better than nothing.
There is nothing about removing a tank, short of dropping it that is
likely to have one bit of effect on how well the tank is sealed. None of
the fasteners penetrate the sealed portion. A tank is 100% easier to do
a thorough leak check with it off the wing. If you have one that leaks,
you will want to be able to negotiate with Vans ASAP, not months after
delivery. Just my opinion and what I did with mine. Being owner built
and maintained, all are welcome to make their own choices.
Kelly
On 5/30/2011 4:40 PM, DLM wrote:
> - Some take the fuel tanks off the QB wings; again why? They have
> already been tested at the QB facility. If they leak, it will be your
> problem now or at some future time.It is possible to create a problem
> during the tank removal. Some will install a stall warning system;
> others will rely on an EFIS warning. If you fly the airplane and do
> not feel the impending stall you are comatose or embalmed. The stick
> shakes very noticeably. My point is taking everything apart costs you
> time and money. Taking things apart can also cause problems noticed or
> unnoticed during reassembly. That's the reason the post annual
> inspection test flight is one of the riskier of the year.
> -
>
>
Message 31
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Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 32
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I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already
a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Orrick
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
Everyone,
Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination
that will appeal to a majority?
just wondering.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Stops? |
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409
Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant
trimming when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives
correct range of travel.
On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
We're in!
Say when and where, we should be doing it. More than enough airplanes by
now. How about before or after OSH somewhere in the central US? If before
then followed by mass arrival of RV-10's, (everyone else does it) well maybe
we're getting carried away here. Extending Oshkosh too long a time frame?
OK how about a mid winter get away to the Central Southern part of the
Country?
Dick Sipp
RV-10 N110DV 360 hours
Qualified B-25 SIC :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Orrick
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 5:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
Everyone,
Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
destination that will appeal to a majority?
just wondering.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
Message 35
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| Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products
. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi
l.
As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar
e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l
iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with
Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and
wipe it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might
put over it. And in fact=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes
you may have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and
spray whatever you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the
Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderfil=2C I used a 'high
fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a
decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to
use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically
compatible with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron
Elite line I ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product
but I decided not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with
the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes
and priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer
it that way... but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
assembly and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before
but what is the current thinking on a material for filling and
sealing the cabin top before application of primer.Please
share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks
Jim
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Stops? |
try Craig Vincent at 209-609-6730.He is at TCY
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 8:03 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Stops?
.com>
Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
Dave Saylor
irCrafters
40 Aviation Way
atsonville, CA 95076
31-722-9141 Shop
31-750-0284 Cell
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