Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:37 AM - Re: Rudder Stops? (Bob Leffler)
2. 04:45 AM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (orchidman)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: Rudder Stops? (Dave Saylor)
4. 07:42 AM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (John Ackerman)
5. 08:28 AM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (orchidman)
6. 11:36 AM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (greghale)
7. 12:14 PM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (Bill Watson)
8. 12:50 PM - Capacitive Fuel System (Jonathan Beasley)
9. 01:52 PM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (John Gonzalez)
10. 01:54 PM - Re: cabin top filling sealing (John Cox)
11. 02:06 PM - Cowl sealing (John Gonzalez)
12. 03:46 PM - Lost email (John Gonzalez)
13. 03:48 PM - Lost email (John Gonzalez)
14. 05:02 PM - nolvadex generic (ngenerr)
15. 05:32 PM - Failed Alternator (James McGrew)
16. 05:41 PM - Re: Capacitive Fuel System (John Cumins)
17. 05:53 PM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (fixitauto@aol.com)
18. 05:58 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (dhmoose)
19. 06:00 PM - Re: Failed Alternator (cjay)
20. 06:02 PM - Re: Failed Alternator (Rob Kermanj)
21. 06:17 PM - Re: RV-10 fly in? (Bob Kaufmann)
22. 06:34 PM - Re: Failed Alternator (Albert Gardner)
23. 08:33 PM - lost email found (John Gonzalez)
24. 08:33 PM - FW: cabin top filling sealing (John Gonzalez)
25. 09:35 PM - Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) (Bob Turner)
Message 1
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I got mine from Craig. As is, you will only get about 25 degrees of travel. Trimming
is on my to do task list to get the desired range of travel.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder Stops?
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409
Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant trimming
when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives correct range of travel.
On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave
> --> Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com wrote:
> I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already
> a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
>
> Bob K
>
> --
I don't have the dates here at work but it is in October. I will be there since
it is a 15 minute flight.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341574#341574
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Stops? |
Thanks everyone, Craig has the ones I was thinking of.
Do not archive
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 2:28 AM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>
> I got mine from Craig. As is, you will only get about 25 degrees of travel. Trimming
is on my to do task list to get the desired range of travel.
>
> bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:19 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder Stops?
>
>
> http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409
>
> Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant trimming
when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives correct range of
travel.
>
>
> On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> --> Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>>
>> Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA or
about 10 other airports there)?
On May 30, 2011, at 7:59 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>
> I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already
> a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Orrick
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
>
>
> Everyone,
> Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
> numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
> Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination
> that will appeal to a majority?
> just wondering.
>
>
>
>
> Don Orrick
> N410JA
> 40010
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
John Ackerman wrote:
> I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA
or about 10 other airports there)?
> --
LOE stood for Land of Enchantment and was in NM but now has been re-defined as
Lots of Experimentals. For all practical proposess, it is an RV fly in with two
goals. One is lots of RV's getting to gather and the other is they raise a
BUNCH of money for charity. :D
Find the info on it on VansAirforce. Right now it is only in the Calender but
later this summer it will start showing up in other posts there. Vetterman used
to run it and has retired from being the major organizer. I think one of the
people heading it up this year is a -10 driver. Not 100% sure.
The location last year and this year again is Weatherford OK KOJA and the dates
are Fri Oct 7 thru Sun Oct 9th. Planes will start arriving mid day Friday.
This last year, I got there around 1:30 and the ramp had just filled up and they
started parking everyone on the grass. Lots of grass and stickers [Shocked]
The Stafford Air and Space museum is located on the field and was included. Very
good :D
Last year, we had a very good turn out of -10's.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341599#341599
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
Count me in. I think Weatherford would be a great centralized place.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341630#341630
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top filling sealing |
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other
products. While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not
have used the Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the
Lohle line for priming and finishing.
The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and
the cowling and the pants is this
Step 1,2,3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling
(do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface,
then sand thru the fill, you may re-expose the pinholes). There were
plenty of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil
and recommend it, especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any
major depressions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix.
Superfil is faster and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or
2 passes here. Then do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester
filler like Metal Glaze. Easy to use because it sets immediately and
sands very easily. You might do a dozen passes on a piece but they go
fast. Some people will advise not to mix polyester fillers and epoxy.
The pros do it and for very good reason; it's efficient. Then spray on
a 'high fill' primer with some tint. Here, brand selection probably
starts to be important. Tt probably makes sense to use a filler that is
compatible with the primer/topcoat you plan to use. In any case,
Lohle does theirs in black, my Dupont product is gray. Color helps you
see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of black can be used for
this too - I didn't. Sand it down, blow it off, and see what's left to
do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again with Wonderfil just
before spraying more fill or starting the ....
Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with
your topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum &
plastic. If this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be
farmed out, stop and think about how much of steps 1,2, and 3 the paint
shop should do. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others
think? If DIY, follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh
system for epoxies, polyurethanes and probably anything else.
Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure
how I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec
sheets. Coatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be
played with or guessed at for good results.
Previously, someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a
re-packaging of another product that is available under other labels.
The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key.
There are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various
filling/sanding properties. I was happy with mine for the most part but
had some challenges. When it was humid, the filler would 'cheese' when
sanded and immediatly clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully
ventilated spray booth and fresh air breathing eqipment, I found that I
wanted full protection when sanding a week after spraying. Fumes came
off the filler for a couple of weeks and they weren't pleasant. In any
case, filling and sanding the big parts is a lot of work.... or not.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> A correction to this email, Wonderfil is not compatible with all
> products. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to
> use Wonderfil.
>
> As for the cowling, those are not pinholes, those are craters. These
> are better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO, even if the
> Loehle literature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400
> From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
>
> I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
>
> What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with
> Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe
> it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might put
> over it. And in fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may
> have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever
> you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you
> can move on. After the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product.
>
> But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a
> decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to
> use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible
> with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I
> ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided
> not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of
> products.
>
> If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and
> priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it
> that way... but I don't really know.
>
> Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
> assembly and flight" Watson
>
> I know this has been discussed before but what is the current
> thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top
> before application of primer.Please share your experiences with
> ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
>
>
> *
>
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Capacitive Fuel System |
How many =AD10 out there are running capacitive fuel systems? Feedback? Which
Vans capacitive probes are right for the =AD10? I see the probes for the
RV4/6/7/8 tanks (Probe A) and the RV9 tanks (Probe 9) but no RV10 tanks=8A so
I'm assuming either Probe A or Probe 9 will work???
It would
Thanks,
Jonathan (#41236 =AD Working on Tailcone and researching Wing options)
Message 9
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| Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
Hi Bill=2C
My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor
ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro
blem.
I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo
rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no
t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca
n't do it until the S&P is cured.
As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the
paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp
ly a wetting agent.
The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is
that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the
y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the
n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large
amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer
over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass
of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c
up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti
r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical
s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu
red.
So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and
then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C
bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri
ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others.
I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I
would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc
ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule.
The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t
he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o
nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed
against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to.
To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack
there of on the producers side.
No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie
nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a
true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery???????????
????
Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part
and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane.
I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy
=2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again
. From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons
From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products.
While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the
Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for primi
ng and finishing.
The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the
cowling and the pants is this
Step 1=2C2=2C3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling (
do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface=2C then
sand thru the fill=2C you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty
of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recomm
end it=2C especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depress
ions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster
and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then
do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze.
Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might
do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise no
t to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good rea
son=3B it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint.
Here=2C brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably mak
es sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you pla
n to use. In any case=2C Lohle does theirs in black=2C my Dupont product
is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of
black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down=2C blow it off=2C
and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again wit
h Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the ....
Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your
topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If
this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out=2C sto
p and think about how much of steps 1=2C2=2C and 3 the paint shop should do
. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY=2C
follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies
=2C polyurethanes and probably anything else.
Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure ho
w I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. C
oatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or
guessed at for good results.
Previously=2C someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-pac
kaging of another product that is available under other labels.
The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. The
re are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding p
roperties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges
. When it was humid=2C the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatl
y clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fres
h air breathing eqipment=2C I found that I wanted full protection when sand
ing a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks
and they weren't pleasant. In any case=2C filling and sanding the big par
ts is a lot of work.... or not.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products
. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi
l.
As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar
e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l
iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil
. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It wo
uld seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact
=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub
a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top.
The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderf
il=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision
about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont hi
gh fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont fi
nishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle ha
s a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't p
lanning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and pr
iming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way..
. but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly
and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a
material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime
r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 10
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| Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
Different John responding. Paint compatibility is one of two issues not
resolved by builders early enough in their process. Which topcoat is
the final finish should dictate which filler, which primer and what
surface prep lends itself to long term adhesion. Primer wars start
builders on one side of a Mason-Dixon Paint line only to find out that
improper surface prep, wrong selection of primer, an incompatible filler
do not work chemically in partnership with the topcoat selected Late in
that process. Chemistry/Cleanliness/Planning & Prep assist the
application of topcoat that will last and bring pride to the purchaser.
Many builders chose finished surfaces based on a lower price or ease of
work.
Choose wisely.
John Cox, #40600 & former auto paint restoration specialist with air
carrier paint experience beyond my current desire.
PS - the other issue #2 -is the selection of specific antenna and their
respective location(s) too late in the build to get the maximum signal
transmission and reception after the late avionics decision. Choice of
equipment often predicates antenna selection. The best installation
requires planning during the initial build - not as a retro at the tail
end.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
A correction to this email, Wonderfil is not compatible with all
products. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to
use Wonderfil.
As for the cowling, those are not pinholes, those are craters. These are
better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO, even if the Loehle
literature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
________________________________
From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with Wonderfil.
It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It
would seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in
fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just
rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on
top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After
the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a
decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use
a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with
most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up
using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it
because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and
priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that
way... but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
assembly and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking
on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application
of primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing
-thanks Jim
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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|
One of the most enjoyable parts of building this plane took place last wint
er while building the plane in this special wide Mobile Mini storage contai
ner. For five years the plane was in the basement of my house with one smal
l window and I was in the dungeon.
I am in California=2C so it was night=2C my wife and daughter were away=2C
probably 36-40 degrees outside=2C wearing a beeney=2C the electric oil heat
er on=2C raining extremely hard and windy as hell=2C the sides of the stora
ge container buckling in the wind=2C a piece of plywood banging into the si
de=2C =2C a bungee cord holding the door closed=2C the Sirius radio on and
all I could think about was how cool this was.
After I was done for the evening I though about how I would never forget th
at night and wished I would have video taped it.
Leaving on the trailer for paint June 23rd.
409NS =0A
Cowl sealing=0A
http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi
d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!147&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke
y=f23!sIWNW9g%24=0A
Message 12
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I wrote up a very lengthy email to Bill and the list regarding my experienc
e with Wonderfil.
I hit the send button and it never came through. I also do not see it in my
sent box either
It appearently is lost in cyberspace someplace. Perhaps to surface later.
The second email came through with the pictures=2C but that was not my answ
er to Bill's question.
Message 13
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In fact=2C when I click on the sent tab=2C it show John Cox's email as orig
inating from my computer with my email briefly showing before his stays on
the screen.
No nitrous patients today=2C nor was I sucking it down.
Message 14
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| Subject: | nolvadex generic |
Nolvadex (TAMOXIFEN) is an anti-estrogen used to treat or prevent breast cancer.
It may also be used to treat other conditions as determined by your doctor
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341665#341665
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| Subject: | Failed Alternator |
Hi RV-10 Group,
My alternator failed after around 200 hours of flight (over 5 years) and I
learned some things that may be worth sharing. I am using the 60 amp
alternator that came with the Van's Firewall Forward kit in 2005 (not sure
what they are shipping now). See attached photo of the alternator. I have
learned that it came from a Suzuki Samuri (part #14684), or a Geo Tracker,
or a Toyota forklift, although I'm not sure if they did any mods to it
before including it in the kit. According to the alternator repair shop I
took it to, I don't think so.
Upon landing last week, I noticed that my voltage was ~11.3 V. I tried a
quick run-up and that didn't bring up the voltage. I tested my batteries the
next day and they were both quite discharged. I downloaded my engine data
and saw that the alternator voltage had gone down the day before the flight
during an engine run. It was still putting out current, so when I looked at
that during my run-up/flight it didn't catch my eye. However, the voltage
was too low to charge the batteries and they continued to discharge
throughout the flight. First lesson learned - I need to set a higher
lower-limit for low voltage on my engine monitor.
I took it to a shop and the tech immediately pointed out that one of the
three phases was burned out . He saws this easily by the white globs of
melted plastic on every third coil (see other photo). Upon disassembly this
was caused by a mechanical failure of one of the phase leads (see picture),
the other two were still making power. This failure was either due to the
way the stator was installed during manufacture, or excessive vibration
(again, I only have ~200 hours on the plane). I just had my prop balanced,
maybe I should have done that sooner.
That's it. Hope that helps someone.
-Jim
N312JE
Message 16
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| Subject: | Capacitive Fuel System |
Jonathon
I am using the Capacitive system in my tanks on the 10. I ordered from Vans
the RV-9 Capacitive system kit, I think it was about $60 it uses 2
different plates and comes with everything you need except to make two
plates that are the same shape as a tank rib. I can give you a few web
sites to review from a couple of builders that have done this. It is very
simple and should make for very accurate fuel gauges.
John Cumins
40864 Wings rear spar riveting.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan Beasley
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Capacitive Fuel System
How many -10 out there are running capacitive fuel systems? Feedback? Which
Vans capacitive probes are right for the -10? I see the probes for the
RV4/6/7/8 tanks (Probe A) and the RV9 tanks (Probe 9) but no RV10 tanks. so
I'm assuming either Probe A or Probe 9 will work???
It would
Thanks,
Jonathan (#41236 - Working on Tailcone and researching Wing options)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
Boone RV Day 2011 will be
Saturday June 18th
FOR MORE INFO http://wcaircraft.com/home.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Orrick <don.orrick@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 8:46 pm
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
Everyone,
ears ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
umbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
s there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
estination that will appeal to a majority?
ust wondering.
on Orrick
410JA
0010
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
Just did this a few weeks ago. When I noted that all of the QB bolts had torque
seal BUT the landing gear bolts, the floors can't be removed without removing
the landing gear, and I want insulation under the floorboards...I decided to
remove the landing gear mounts. I It was very difficult to remove both gear mounts
due to the incredible force on some of the bolts. You can tell that some
bolts were doing 100% of the work and others were doing 0% (as evidenced by
the pressure to remove and the surface cad lost). In the end, they came out
with some damage to the bolt heads (from the plier used to grab and pull). A
few bucks worth of bolts from Vans and I was feeling good about my ability to
access the floors. No odd findings, but good access to verify everything and
add insulation. I fabricated drifts out of the old bolts (see image attached)
which my tech counselor said would be very helpful in aligning everything for
reassemby. Reassembly is around the corner...so I'll let everyone know if it
was more/less difficult then removal. In the end, I do not feel it is imperative
to remove the gear, but no harm is caused by doing so.
--------
RV-10 builder #41059
Elevator nearly complete!
QB fuselage and wings ready to go
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341674#341674
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_375.jpg
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Failed Alternator |
Jim,
Can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like the plane power alternator?
I had insufficient voltage with my alternator from the start, it was
between 12.5 to 13.5 ,always causing me to conserve amps in flight. Plane power
kept directing me to do diagnostic tests, saying it was usually a short or
bad wiring somewhere else. Finally they took it back, checked it out, said nothing
was wrong, but replaced a couple things (not sure what) and its been running
great ever sense.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341676#341676
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Failed Alternator |
Mine failed at exactly 200 hrs. Van replaced it without charge. Not sure if I
have a different one now but I have accumulated 360 hr on the replacement.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On May 31, 2011, at 8:30 PM, "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
> Hi RV-10 Group,
>
>
>
> My alternator failed after around 200 hours of flight (over 5 years) and I
learned some things that may be worth sharing. I am using the 60 amp altern
ator that came with the Van=99s Firewall Forward kit in 2005 (not sure
what they are shipping now). See attached photo of the alternator. I have l
earned that it came from a Suzuki Samuri (part #14684), or a Geo Tracker, or
a Toyota forklift, although I=99m not sure if they did any mods to it
before including it in the kit. According to the alternator repair shop I t
ook it to, I don=99t think so.
>
>
>
> Upon landing last week, I noticed that my voltage was ~11.3 V. I tried a q
uick run-up and that didn=99t bring up the voltage. I tested my batter
ies the next day and they were both quite discharged. I downloaded my engine
data and saw that the alternator voltage had gone down the day before the f
light during an engine run. It was still putting out current, so when I look
ed at that during my run-up/flight it didn=99t catch my eye. However, t
he voltage was too low to charge the batteries and they continued to dischar
ge throughout the flight. First lesson learned =93 I need to set a hig
her lower-limit for low voltage on my engine monitor.
>
>
>
> I took it to a shop and the tech immediately pointed out that one of the t
hree phases was burned out . He saws this easily by the white globs of melte
d plastic on every third coil (see other photo). Upon disassembly this was c
aused by a mechanical failure of one of the phase leads (see picture), the o
ther two were still making power. This failure was either due to the way the
stator was installed during manufacture, or excessive vibration (again, I o
nly have ~200 hours on the plane). I just had my prop balanced, maybe I shou
ld have done that sooner.
>
>
>
> That=99s it. Hope that helps someone.
>
>
>
> -Jim
>
> N312JE
>
>
>
> <Suzuki_Samuri_14684.jpg>
> <Failed_Indication.JPG>
> <Broken_stator.JPG>
Message 21
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Oklahoma
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas
(KWEA or about 10 other airports there)?
On May 30, 2011, at 7:59 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>
> I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are
> already a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald
> Orrick
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
>
>
> Everyone,
> Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
> numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
> Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
> destination that will appeal to a majority?
> just wondering.
>
>
>
>
> Don Orrick
> N410JA
> 40010
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Failed Alternator |
My Vans supplied 60 A alternator failed at about 150 hours. The replacement
was an Nippondenso Model 36-14684N from an auto parts store and seems to be
working fine at 550 hrs. I get the impression that a suitable alternator may
be found under several manufacturer/part no. combinations.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 23
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| Subject: | lost email found |
Hi Bill=2C
My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor
ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro
blem.
I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo
rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no
t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca
n't do it until the S&P is cured.
As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the
paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp
ly a wetting agent.
The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is
that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the
y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the
n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large
amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer
over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass
of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c
up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti
r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical
s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu
red.
So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and
then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C
bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri
ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others.
I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I
would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc
ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule.
The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t
he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o
nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed
against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to.
To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack
there of on the producers side.
No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie
nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a
true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery???????????
????
Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part
and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane.
I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy
=2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again
. From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons
Message 24
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| Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
Below is my lost email reply to Bill's Watson. After clicking twenty times
or more on my sent tab and bringing up the email John Cox's sent today=2C m
y email finally showed up. My sent box also showed JOhn Cox's email as bein
g sent yesterday=2C in addition to today.
Kind of like working upside down under the instrument panel with your shoul
ders contourted into the most uncomfortable position to the point of pain
=2C just to tighten that screw...persistence pays off.
John G.
From: indigoonlatigo@msn.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
Hi Bill=2C
My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor
ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro
blem.
I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo
rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no
t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca
n't do it until the S&P is cured.
As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the
paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp
ly a wetting agent.
The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is
that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the
y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the
n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large
amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer
over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass
of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c
up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti
r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical
s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu
red.
So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and
then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C
bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri
ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others.
I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I
would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc
ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule.
The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t
he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o
nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed
against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to.
To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack
there of on the producers side.
No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie
nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a
true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery???????????
????
Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part
and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane.
I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy
=2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again
. From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons
From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products.
While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the
Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for primi
ng and finishing.
The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the
cowling and the pants is this
Step 1=2C2=2C3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling (
do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface=2C then
sand thru the fill=2C you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty
of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recomm
end it=2C especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depress
ions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster
and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then
do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze.
Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might
do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise no
t to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good rea
son=3B it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint.
Here=2C brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably mak
es sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you pla
n to use. In any case=2C Lohle does theirs in black=2C my Dupont product
is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of
black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down=2C blow it off=2C
and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again wit
h Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the ....
Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your
topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If
this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out=2C sto
p and think about how much of steps 1=2C2=2C and 3 the paint shop should do
. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY=2C
follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies
=2C polyurethanes and probably anything else.
Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure ho
w I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. C
oatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or
guessed at for good results.
Previously=2C someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-pac
kaging of another product that is available under other labels.
The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. The
re are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding p
roperties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges
. When it was humid=2C the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatl
y clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fres
h air breathing eqipment=2C I found that I wanted full protection when sand
ing a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks
and they weren't pleasant. In any case=2C filling and sanding the big par
ts is a lot of work.... or not.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products
. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi
l.
As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar
e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l
iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil
. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It wo
uld seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact
=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub
a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top.
The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderf
il=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision
about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont hi
gh fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont fi
nishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle ha
s a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't p
lanning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and pr
iming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way..
. but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly
and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a
material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime
r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
BTW, my QB fuel tanks came installed - but with bolts that were one size too long!
To compensate, there were 2 washers under each bolt head.
I thought this was a potential disaster waiting to happen. 10 years from now, someone
(me) pulls the tanks, sees the extra washer, and throws it away. Now the
bolts bottom out before coming tight.
Whether you choose to pull the QB stuff apart or not is your choice (I left my
gear mount alone) but do check everything.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341694#341694
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