Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:15 AM - Re: Trim tab controls (Richard Bibb)
2. 10:04 AM - Re: Nose wheel pant removal question (Bruce Johnson)
3. 10:49 AM - Re: Main gear weldment too small (Phillip Perry)
4. 02:46 PM - Re: Nose wheel pant removal question (Lew Gallagher)
5. 02:49 PM - Re: Trim tab controls (Lew Gallagher)
6. 03:10 PM - Re: Main gear weldment too small (Tim Olson)
7. 05:54 PM - Re: Main gear weldment too small (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
8. 06:16 PM - Re: Main gear weldment too small (Robin Marks)
9. 07:08 PM - Re: Main gear weldment too small (Kelly McMullen)
10. 09:17 PM - Fairing Construction - How to? (Tim Olson)
11. 09:20 PM - East Coast Trip Write-up (Tim Olson)
12. 09:40 PM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Seano)
13. 09:46 PM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Robin Marks)
14. 11:29 PM - Re: Main gear weldment too small (woxofswa)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Trim tab controls |
Had the same idea awhile ago - can you supply mfg pn on servoes?
Richard Bibb
571-379-3290 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 2:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim tab controls
Hey Guys,
I've about finished up with Linn's idea of using a micro controller and RC
servos to operate a small tab extension on the aileron and rudder.
Here's a first, somewhat crude, youtube video of my demonstrator:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPFUCQeOM4Q
The servos are digital, high torque (88.88 oz-in) that weigh 1.59 oz. They
are not like the old analog servos -- they don't "hunt". They have carbonite
gear sets and there are metal control arms available. The idea is that they
are light weight enough to mount on a small access panel inside the rudder
and aileron. The digital readout can be customized to pretty much whatever
the pilot wants -- or to a bar LED like the one supplied for the elevator
trim. I like the digital cuz it gives a much more refined position, and cuz
it was more of a challenge, but I'm aware that most pilots probably would
see that as a distraction.
The switches would be incorporated into the hat switch, toggle on the stick,
or on the panel. Brightness of the digital display is controlable. I was
concerned that the signal to the pulse motor servos might be compromised by
the length of the wire, so I put 25 ft. on each -- and they work fine.
I programmed in the feature to "save" the position you want, so that you
don't have to reset the trim every time you start up the plane (i.e., the
basic program sets the servo to neutral each time it powers up).
I got most of the materials off Ebay and RadioShack for the demo. Probably
around $100.
The brain of the system is the Parallax BS2 micro controller and I've built
in the MAX7219 8-digit display driver to control the digital displays. I
started from zero and taught myself enough Pbasic to program this thing to
do what I wanted it to do -- WHAT A BLAST!!
If I can talk Wes into it, I'll probably build these into an aileron and the
rudder that I have for the next -10 I'm building, then swap them out in his
plane to see if they work. If they don't or no one likes them, it's still
been an awesome project.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342323#342323
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel pant removal question |
Hi Lew, When its available I would like to rent the kit. I was thinking som
ething had to be done with the aluminum and yours sounds like a great idea.
=0ABruce 151BJ 53 hrs=0A=0AFrom: Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net>=0ATo:
rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, June 19, 2011 10:40 AM=0ASubject: R
e: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal question=0A=0A--> RV10-List message p
osted by: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>=0A=0AHey Michael,=0A=0ASinc
e I've had lots of practice here lately, this is what I've done.- I remov
e the 2 Allen head bolts and keep the brackets on.- But with modification
s.- I've put the stainless Helicoil threads in the aluminum forks so that
the Allen bolts don't strip them out, replaced the original Allen bolts wi
th ones 1/2 inch longer and use spacers so that the head extends beyond the
pants so that the tow bars don't damage the pants.- And I've replaced th
e two small washers on each side of the axel with a flattened out lock wash
er (it's a tiny bit thicker than the two thin washers) topped with a larger
outer diameter washer.- This makes sliding the brackets on the axel MUCH
easier with the better clearance and the larger washer on top keeps the br
acket from sliding off when first aligning the brackets.=0A=0AI've been ren
ting out the Helicoil kit for $5 plus shipping to anyone interested that do
esn't want to buy the whole kit (it's pricey) for just those two threads.
=0A=0ALater, - Lew=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Krau
s" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>=0ATo: <rv10-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Sun
day, June 19, 2011 1:00 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal qu
flakeairport.net>=0A> =0A> How are most people removing the nose wheel pant
s?- By removing the 2 Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pa
nts, or removing the 8 screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel?
==
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
Mine was smooth as a baby's bottom.
I polished the inside of the mounts and the gear legs with scotchbrite.
Then lubed them with some airframe grease. They slid right in without any
issue at all.
Phil
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:09 AM, Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Hey Kelly,
>
> We didn't measure it, but it was definitely too tight a fit. Had to clean
> all the preservative off the legs and lightly sand them to get them to fit.
> And then it was a struggle. A brake cylinder hone should work as well.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:23 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small
>
>
>>
>> Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear legs?
>> Fortunately not mine, but a fellow builder on the field. I measure his
>> sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear legs. His gear legs measure
>> the same as mine, but my gear sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger than his.
>> Haven't come up with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone to enlarge
>> the opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new facility QB
>> fuselage.
>> Kelly
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel pant removal question |
Hey Bruce,
Private email me your address and I'll send it on it's way.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal question
Hi Lew, When its available I would like to rent the kit. I was
thinking something had to be done with the aluminum and yours sounds
like a great idea.
Bruce 151BJ 53 hrs
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab controls |
Hey Richard,
The servos are Hitec HS-5485HB. Let me know if you get something tested in
flight.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb@tomet.net>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 11:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim tab controls
>
> Had the same idea awhile ago - can you supply mfg pn on servoes?
>
> Richard Bibb
> 571-379-3290 mobile
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
I had one that I had to scotchbrite up to get to
fit, and one that after putting it in, had a little
too much slop. Too much slop can cause rocking,
clicking, and bolt wear. In my case, a little
rotational movement too, that caused the tire to
slightly to in and out when you moved it. I ended
up putting in some filler to fill the gap slightly,
and that fixed it all.
So, the weldment's aren't perfect.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/20/2011 12:44 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Mine was smooth as a baby's bottom.
>
> I polished the inside of the mounts and the gear legs with scotchbrite.
> Then lubed them with some airframe grease. They slid right in without
> any issue at all.
>
> Phil
>
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:09 AM, Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net
> <mailto:lewgall@charter.net>> wrote:
>
> <lewgall@charter.net <mailto:lewgall@charter.net>>
>
> Hey Kelly,
>
> We didn't measure it, but it was definitely too tight a fit. Had to
> clean all the preservative off the legs and lightly sand them to get
> them to fit. And then it was a struggle. A brake cylinder hone
> should work as well.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen"
> <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:23 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small
>
>
> <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
>
> Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear
> legs? Fortunately not mine, but a fellow builder on the field. I
> measure his sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear
> legs. His gear legs measure the same as mine, but my gear
> sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger than his. Haven't come up
> with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone to enlarge the
> opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new
> facility QB fuselage.
> Kelly
>
>
> ====__==============================__=
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__Navigator?RV10-List
> ====__==============================__=
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ====__==============================__=
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__contribution
> ====__==============================__=
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Main gear weldment too small |
My situation is beyond polishing=2C or for what I did yesterday=2C wearing
out a drill trying to hone them out. The ID is more than .003 smaller tha
n the leg OD. Talked to Vans today and they are thinking the housing may ha
ve not been honed appropriately at the factory.......the legs OD are the co
rrect size. They are going to talk about it and we will visit tomorrow but
I suspect my only option will be to pull them out and put new ones in.
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Jun 2011 17:07:42 -0500
> From: Tim@MyRV10.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small
>
>
> I had one that I had to scotchbrite up to get to
> fit=2C and one that after putting it in=2C had a little
> too much slop. Too much slop can cause rocking=2C
> clicking=2C and bolt wear. In my case=2C a little
> rotational movement too=2C that caused the tire to
> slightly to in and out when you moved it. I ended
> up putting in some filler to fill the gap slightly=2C
> and that fixed it all.
>
> So=2C the weldment's aren't perfect.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 6/20/2011 12:44 PM=2C Phillip Perry wrote:
> > Mine was smooth as a baby's bottom.
> >
> > I polished the inside of the mounts and the gear legs with scotchbrite.
> > Then lubed them with some airframe grease. They slid right in without
> > any issue at all.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > On Mon=2C Jun 20=2C 2011 at 12:09 AM=2C Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.
net
> > <mailto:lewgall@charter.net>> wrote:
> >
> > <lewgall@charter.net <mailto:lewgall@charter.net>>
> >
> > Hey Kelly=2C
> >
> > We didn't measure it=2C but it was definitely too tight a fit. Had
to
> > clean all the preservative off the legs and lightly sand them to ge
t
> > them to fit. And then it was a struggle. A brake cylinder hone
> > should work as well.
> >
> > Later=2C - Lew
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen"
> > <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
> > Sent: Monday=2C June 20=2C 2011 12:23 AM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small
> >
> >
> >
> > <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
> >
> > Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear
> > legs? Fortunately not mine=2C but a fellow builder on the field
. I
> > measure his sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear
> > legs. His gear legs measure the same as mine=2C but my gear
> > sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger than his. Haven't come up
> > with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone to enlarge the
> > opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new
> > facility QB fuselage.
> > Kelly
> >
> >
> >
> > ====__=================
=============__=
> > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__Navigator?RV10-List
> > ====__=================
=============__=
> > http://forums.matronics.com
> > ====__=================
=============__=
> > le=2C List Admin.
> > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__contribution
> > ====__=================
=============__=
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
Just jumping into the conversation with an observation. After much head
scratching we discovered Vans shipped us a pair of 9A legs for our 8A. No
way to correct that situation except replacing for the correct units. I was
actually shocked to discover that the 7A, 8A, 9A main legs are each
different units with their own unique geometry/dimensions. Very un-Vans
like. through the RV list I heard from two others with the exact same parts
error.
Are you sure you have the correct parts? It has happened before...
BTW the plane rolls a lot better with the correct gear legs.
Robin
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <
roxianmike@msn.com> wrote:
> My situation is beyond polishing, or for what I did yesterday, wearing out
> a drill trying to hone them out. The ID is more than .003 smaller than the
> leg OD. Talked to Vans today and they are thinking the housing may have not
> been honed appropriately at the factory.......the legs OD are the correct
> size. They are going to talk about it and we will visit tomorrow but I
> suspect my only option will be to pull them out and put new ones in.
>
> > Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 17:07:42 -0500
> > From: Tim@MyRV10.com
>
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small
>
> >
> >
> > I had one that I had to scotchbrite up to get to
> > fit, and one that after putting it in, had a little
> > too much slop. Too much slop can cause rocking,
> > clicking, and bolt wear. In my case, a little
> > rotational movement too, that caused the tire to
> > slightly to in and out when you moved it. I ended
> > up putting in some filler to fill the gap slightly,
> > and that fixed it all.
> >
> > So, the weldment's aren't perfect.
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > On 6/20/2011 12:44 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> > > Mine was smooth as a baby's bottom.
> > >
> > > I polished the inside of the mounts and the gear legs with scotchbrite.
> > > Then lubed them with some airframe grease. They slid right in without
> > > any issue at all.
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> > > On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:09 AM, Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net
> > > <mailto:lewgall@charter.net>> wrote:
> > >
> > > <lewgall@charter.net <mailto:lewgall@charter.net>>
> > >
> > > Hey Kelly,
> > >
> > > We didn't measure it, but it was definitely too tight a fit. Had to
> > > clean all the preservative off the legs and lightly sand them to get
> > > them to fit. And then it was a struggle. A brake cylinder hone
> > > should work as well.
> > >
> > > Later, - Lew
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen"
> > > <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
> > > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:23 AM
> > > Subject: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > <kellym@aviating.com <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
> > >
> > > Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear
> > > legs? Fortunately not mine, but a fellow builder on the field. I
> > > measure his sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear
> > > legs. His gear legs measure the same as mine, but my gear
> > > sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger than his. Haven't come up
> > > with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone to enlarge the
> > > opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new
> > > facility QB fuselage.
> > > Kelly
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ====__==============================__=
> > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__Navigator?RV10-List
> > > ====__==============================__=
> > > http://forums.matronics.com
> > > ====__=====__=
> > > le, List Admin.
> > > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__contribution
> > > ====__==============================__=
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> >=====================
> >====================
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
I don't believe the gear mounts are shared with any other RV model, since
the part number is WD-1021, so don't see how it could be a mix up. The
explanation of not finish machined at factory seems most probable....some
quality control.
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 6:14 PM, Robin Marks <robin@painttheweb.com> wrote:
> Just jumping into the conversation with an observation. After much head
> scratching we discovered Vans shipped us a pair of 9A legs for our 8A. No
> way to correct that situation except replacing for the correct units. I was
> actually shocked to discover that the 7A, 8A, 9A main legs are each
> different units with their own unique geometry/dimensions. Very un-Vans
> like. through the RV list I heard from two others with the exact same parts
> error.
> Are you sure you have the correct parts? It has happened before...
> BTW the plane rolls a lot better with the correct gear legs.
>
> Robin
>
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <
> roxianmike@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> My situation is beyond polishing, or for what I did yesterday, wearing
>> out a drill trying to hone them out. The ID is more than .003 smaller than
>> the leg OD. Talked to Vans today and they are thinking the housing may have
>> not been honed appropriately at the factory.......the legs OD are the
>> correct size. They are going to talk about it and we will visit tomorrow
>> but I suspect my only option will be to pull them out and put new ones in.
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fairing Construction - How to? |
I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On mine,
I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
a whirl.
So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
seem to be tough.
Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
fiberglass.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | East Coast Trip Write-up |
Thanks to all who gave me tips on my route for last week's trip
up the East Coast. The trip was a blast and we had a real
good time. I did end up taking the coastal route, using
flight following, which gave me the ability to fly through the
non-active areas of the restricted flight areas, so it was a
quick and simple trip where we maintained about 1-2 miles off
the coast for the entire trip up. Really nice. I took the
SFRA course for D.C., but due to the stinkin' U.S. Open, it
was worthless to try to get a hotel within the SFRA, so I
cut my losses and saved 50% on my cash and stayed outside of
the area. Still worked out perfectly. Charleston was
an awesome stop too.
Here's the write up for those who are interested:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/Trips/2011_East_Coast/index.html
We're now at 41 states and 3 countries with the RV-10,
and having a blast doing it!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
Tim,
I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I opened up to
2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land hard (ya right)
the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I bounced the
plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear fairing before I opened
it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by myself. I will take some
pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is what you are talking about. I
have seven screws in mine. You can probably use less because that is how
many I used at first when it was a lot closer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 10:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
>
> I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
> significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
> excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On mine,
> I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
> pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
> coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
> attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
> cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
> cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
> something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
> references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
> putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
> a whirl.
>
> So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
> to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
> maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
> of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
>
> What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
> get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
> on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
> that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
> sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
> glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
> RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
> so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
> seem to be tough.
>
> Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
> fiberglass.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
I will leave it to the glass experts to discuss the best techniques.
My question is; I assume you are talking / looking at "A" model RV's
and don't all non A model RV's have a fairings in this location
already? My 6A and 8A do?
I also vaguely recall a -10 builder making a spring loaded cover for
this location.
Re fiberglass tech. Have you seen all the FG work Speedy details on
his site? Maybe you can pick up some tricks from him?
http://www.rv-8a.net/
Including a cool inner nose wheel gear leg fairing.
http://www.rv-8a.net/2010Jun.htm
http://www.rv-8a.net/images/CoolingFairing20.JPG
And some goofy looking wheel pants fairings that got him A LOT of
extra speed. And now a new nose wheel fairing
http://www.rv-8a.net/images/CoolingFairing20.JPG
Robin
Sent from my iPad2.
On Jun 21, 2011, at 12:23 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
> significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
> excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On mine,
> I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
> pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
> coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
> attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
> cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
> cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
> something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
> references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
> putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
> a whirl.
>
> So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
> to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
> maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
> of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
>
> What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
> get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
> on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
> that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
> sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
> glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
> RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
> so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
> seem to be tough.
>
> Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
> fiberglass.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
Put mine in today with very little trouble. Much easier than I anticipated actually.
I did find that the hole in the leg top was slightly smaller than the specified
drill bit so I predrilled it on the drill press first. That made it much
easier to final drill the receiver.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343620#343620
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