Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:07 AM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Tim Olson)
2. 07:21 AM - Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Tim Olson)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Robin Marks)
4. 07:49 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Kelly McMullen)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Dave Saylor)
6. 07:55 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Bob Leffler)
7. 08:03 AM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Tim Olson)
8. 08:05 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Stein Bruch)
9. 08:05 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Tim Olson)
10. 08:24 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Tim Olson)
11. 08:43 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (orchidman)
12. 08:54 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Michael Kraus)
13. 08:59 AM - Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings (Sean Stephens)
14. 09:47 AM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ)
15. 10:12 AM - Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings (Bob Leffler)
16. 10:14 AM - Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings (AirMike)
17. 10:14 AM - Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings (Albert Gardner)
18. 10:41 AM - Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings (Sean Stephens)
19. 11:39 AM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Richard Bibb)
20. 02:51 PM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (John Gonzalez)
21. 03:21 PM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (Lew Gallagher)
22. 04:03 PM - Re: Fairing Construction - How to? (John Gonzalez)
23. 06:42 PM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
24. 06:55 PM - AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info (Byron&Donya)
25. 07:16 PM - Re: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info (Ralph E. Capen)
26. 08:31 PM - Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (Bob Turner)
27. 09:59 PM - Re: Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware (pilotdds)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
Sean,
Very interesting that you had to move it a whole 2.5"....I'm now
curious to see how that looks. It would seem to me that if
there were that much of a gap, it would still let in a lot of
air perhaps, at high angles of attack, but I can't visualize
it well enough. I'm going to have to draw it or do paper
cutouts and see. If you have photos, I'd love to see them.
Maybe it would be better if I attached a horizontal flat plate
to my leg fairing, just INSIDE the cowling...with some
appropriate bracing on top. That could then be allowed to
move fore and aft and as long as I built it with a tight gap to
the lower cowl, and maybe even put a weatherstrip around it,
it would stay sealed up, but from the inside. I would have
to draw it to maybe paint you a picture. It wouldn't
be as clean aerodynamically as a fairing, but it could serve
the goal of keeping air out of the slot, unless the pressure
would be so high that it would break the fiberglass "tongue"
that I'd have sticking off the gear leg.
Robin, I didn't realize that the 6A/8A have any fairing in that
spot. I did try the links you sent. Interesting...that one
funky fairing the guy built looks like it's actually up
INSIDE the cowl. I wonder why/how that works to do anything.
I'll have to peruse the page a bit more.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 6/20/2011 11:37 PM, Seano wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I opened up
> to 2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land hard (ya
> right) the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I
> bounced the plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear fairing
> before I opened it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by myself.
> I will take some pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is what you
> are talking about. I have seven screws in mine. You can probably use
> less because that is how many I used at first when it was a lot closer.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 10:14 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
>
>
>>
>> I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
>> significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
>> excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On mine,
>> I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
>> pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
>> coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
>> attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
>> cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
>> cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
>> something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
>> references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
>> putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
>> a whirl.
>>
>> So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
>> to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
>> maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
>> of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
>>
>> What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
>> get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
>> on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
>> that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
>> sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
>> glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
>> RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
>> so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
>> seem to be tough.
>>
>> Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
>> fiberglass.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
enter on the order because it said Hazard by
the line items. I called and they said that
it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
such a reason. No worries. My other line items
were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
go.
Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
from their GA location, and it would prevent
hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
save me some money. Still all good.
Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
Called to figure out why. Just found out...
They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
be cheap.
Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
because some people like it that way. And, due to
the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
at least.
I've heard this same thing happens to people who
buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
to about $139.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
Yes Stan (Speedy) was trying to smooth out the airflow in the lower cowl
area and realized that with all the hardware down there (gear leg, engine
brace etc...) that the outlet area of his 8A was much more congested than
the underside of an RV-8. Plus Stan is really trying to get some speed out
of that bird and is looking for it every place he can. As you know gaining
speed is incremental but his best results have come from adding what
is essentially HUGE wheel pant intersecting gear leg fairings that removes
the sharp angle between the gear leg and wheel pant. I think he gained
something like 5 Knots with that modification. Stan is very nice. I am sure
you could call him for just about anything construction related.
Sorry about the crappy links I was working off my ipad.
All that being said you were not talking about added speed but increased
cooling. How about testing your theory with wide tape before fabricating
some fairing?
Robin
On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 10:04 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> Sean,
> Very interesting that you had to move it a whole 2.5"....I'm now
> curious to see how that looks. It would seem to me that if
> there were that much of a gap, it would still let in a lot of
> air perhaps, at high angles of attack, but I can't visualize
> it well enough. I'm going to have to draw it or do paper
> cutouts and see. If you have photos, I'd love to see them.
> Maybe it would be better if I attached a horizontal flat plate
> to my leg fairing, just INSIDE the cowling...with some
> appropriate bracing on top. That could then be allowed to
> move fore and aft and as long as I built it with a tight gap to
> the lower cowl, and maybe even put a weatherstrip around it,
> it would stay sealed up, but from the inside. I would have
> to draw it to maybe paint you a picture. It wouldn't
> be as clean aerodynamically as a fairing, but it could serve
> the goal of keeping air out of the slot, unless the pressure
> would be so high that it would break the fiberglass "tongue"
> that I'd have sticking off the gear leg.
>
> Robin, I didn't realize that the 6A/8A have any fairing in that
> spot. I did try the links you sent. Interesting...that one
> funky fairing the guy built looks like it's actually up
> INSIDE the cowl. I wonder why/how that works to do anything.
> I'll have to peruse the page a bit more.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> On 6/20/2011 11:37 PM, Seano wrote:
>
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I opened up
>> to 2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land hard (ya
>> right) the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I
>> bounced the plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear fairing
>> before I opened it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by myself.
>> I will take some pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is what you
>> are talking about. I have seven screws in mine. You can probably use
>> less because that is how many I used at first when it was a lot closer.
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 10:14 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
>>> significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
>>> excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On mine,
>>> I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
>>> pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
>>> coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
>>> attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
>>> cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
>>> cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
>>> something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
>>> references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
>>> putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
>>> a whirl.
>>>
>>> So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
>>> to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
>>> maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
>>> of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
>>>
>>> What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
>>> get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
>>> on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
>>> that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
>>> sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
>>> glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
>>> RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
>>> so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
>>> seem to be tough.
>>>
>>> Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
>>> fiberglass.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
I would forward your comments to Jim Irwin. You just might get some relief.
On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 7:18 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
> and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
> good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
> enter on the order because it said Hazard by
> the line items. I called and they said that
> it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
> such a reason. No worries. My other line items
> were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
> Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
> for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
> should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
> With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
> go.
>
> Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
> nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
> to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
> from their GA location, and it would prevent
> hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
> save me some money. Still all good.
>
> Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
> Called to figure out why. Just found out...
> They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
> to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
> flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
> be cheap.
>
> Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
> I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
> shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
> But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
> because some people like it that way. And, due to
> the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
> the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
> the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
> I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
> shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
> at least.
>
> I've heard this same thing happens to people who
> buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
> They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
> long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
>
> So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
> work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
> order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
> flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
> way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
> I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
> don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
> That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
> to about $139.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
I've received >many< cans of resin that got dented and leaked. Always
a big mess. That may be why they ship it separately now. And that
may have been me yelling at ACS about folding the cloth...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 7:18 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
> and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
> good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
> enter on the order because it said Hazard by
> the line items. I called and they said that
> it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
> such a reason. No worries. My other line items
> were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
> Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
> for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
> should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
> With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
> go.
>
> Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
> nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
> to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
> from their GA location, and it would prevent
> hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
> save me some money. Still all good.
>
> Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
> Called to figure out why. Just found out...
> They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
> to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
> flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
> be cheap.
>
> Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
> I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
> shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
> But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
> because some people like it that way. And, due to
> the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
> the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
> the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
> I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
> shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
> at least.
>
> I've heard this same thing happens to people who
> buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
> They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
> long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
>
> So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
> work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
> order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
> flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
> way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
> I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
> don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
> That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
> to about $139.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
I would drop Jim Irwin an email. I have his address at home if you need it Sounds
like somebody in shipping did something stupid.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 21, 2011, at 10:18 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
> and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
> good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
> enter on the order because it said Hazard by
> the line items. I called and they said that
> it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
> such a reason. No worries. My other line items
> were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
> Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
> for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
> should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
> With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
> go.
>
> Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
> nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
> to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
> from their GA location, and it would prevent
> hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
> save me some money. Still all good.
>
> Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
> Called to figure out why. Just found out...
> They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
> to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
> flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
> be cheap.
>
> Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
> I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
> shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
> But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
> because some people like it fthat way. And, due to
> the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
> the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
> the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
> I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
> shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
> at least.
>
> I've heard this same thing happens to people who
> buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
> They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
> long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
>
> So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
> work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
> order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
> flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
> way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
> I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
> don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
> That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
> to about $139.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
I was thinking of doing it with tape. Should be pretty
painless that way. I may even be able to tape in a wedge
of cardboard for a fairing if I wanted. It's worth the
effort I'm sure. I just figured I'd get the supplies,
because I'm sure I'll end up doing something if it works,
and I have a small window where I'm motivated. :)
It's too fun to fly, and hard to convince yourself
you want to modify something...especially fiberglass.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/21/2011 9:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Yes Stan (Speedy) was trying to smooth out the airflow in the lower cowl
> area and realized that with all the hardware down there (gear leg,
> engine brace etc...) that the outlet area of his 8A was much more
> congested than the underside of an RV-8. Plus Stan is really trying to
> get some speed out of that bird and is looking for it every place he
> can. As you know gaining speed is incremental but his best results have
> come from adding what is essentially HUGE wheel pant intersecting gear
> leg fairings that removes the sharp angle between the gear leg and wheel
> pant. I think he gained something like 5 Knots with that modification.
> Stan is very nice. I am sure you could call him for just about anything
> construction related.
> Sorry about the crappy links I was working off my ipad.
> All that being said you were not talking about added speed but increased
> cooling. How about testing your theory with wide tape before fabricating
> some fairing?
>
> Robin
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 10:04 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>>
>
> Sean,
> Very interesting that you had to move it a whole 2.5"....I'm now
> curious to see how that looks. It would seem to me that if
> there were that much of a gap, it would still let in a lot of
> air perhaps, at high angles of attack, but I can't visualize
> it well enough. I'm going to have to draw it or do paper
> cutouts and see. If you have photos, I'd love to see them.
> Maybe it would be better if I attached a horizontal flat plate
> to my leg fairing, just INSIDE the cowling...with some
> appropriate bracing on top. That could then be allowed to
> move fore and aft and as long as I built it with a tight gap to
> the lower cowl, and maybe even put a weatherstrip around it,
> it would stay sealed up, but from the inside. I would have
> to draw it to maybe paint you a picture. It wouldn't
> be as clean aerodynamically as a fairing, but it could serve
> the goal of keeping air out of the slot, unless the pressure
> would be so high that it would break the fiberglass "tongue"
> that I'd have sticking off the gear leg.
>
> Robin, I didn't realize that the 6A/8A have any fairing in that
> spot. I did try the links you sent. Interesting...that one
> funky fairing the guy built looks like it's actually up
> INSIDE the cowl. I wonder why/how that works to do anything.
> I'll have to peruse the page a bit more.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> On 6/20/2011 11:37 PM, Seano wrote:
>
> <mailto:sean@braunandco.com>>
>
> Tim,
>
> I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I
> opened up
> to 2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land
> hard (ya
> right) the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I
> bounced the plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear
> fairing
> before I opened it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by
> myself.
> I will take some pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is
> what you
> are talking about. I have seven screws in mine. You can probably use
> less because that is how many I used at first when it was a lot
> closer.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:RV10-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 10:14 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
>
>
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>>
>
> I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10)
> who've had
> significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing
> over the
> excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On
> mine,
> I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
> pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
> coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
> attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
> cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
> cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
> something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
> references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
> putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
> a whirl.
>
> So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
> to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
> maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
> of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
>
> What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
> get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
> on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
> that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
> sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
> glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
> RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
> so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
> seem to be tough.
>
> Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
> fiberglass.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> ====__==============================__=
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__Navigator?RV10-List
> ====__==============================__=
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ====__==============================__=
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__contribution
> ====__==============================__=
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
For composite materials I typically like to use "FIBREGLAST"
(www.fibreglast.com). The stuff sometimes is a little bit more expensive,
but given the fact that composites is all they do, they do it well and their
staff is very knowledgeable.
Regarding shipping, it can be pricey...but here's a real world example. My
last order from them was almost $465 and included a bunch of epoxy,
polyurethane liquid mix foam, microballoons, glass cloth, carbon cloth,
talc, brushes, squeegees, etc.. The total charge for shipping on that order
was $59.
Anyway, not saying you have to buy the stuff from them, just an option that
I've found fairly reliable over the years. Like everything, you can find
some of it cheaper if you spend the time but that company bridges the gap
between price, knowledge and reliability....overall kind of like my shop! :)
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
BTW...we can officially post in the RV-10 section now that we (Jed) actually
have an RV10 kit in the back going together!!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 9:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
enter on the order because it said Hazard by
the line items. I called and they said that
it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
such a reason. No worries. My other line items
were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
go.
Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
from their GA location, and it would prevent
hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
save me some money. Still all good.
Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
Called to figure out why. Just found out...
They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
be cheap.
Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
because some people like it that way. And, due to
the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
at least.
I've heard this same thing happens to people who
buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
to about $139.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
Yeah, I could complain up the ladder, but my intention
isn't to get them to eat the cost. I just think that
they should adopt a policy where ANYTHING that ships
oversize, requires either a customer note first that
was on the order, or a phone call to verify. That
would have fixed my issue completely. In fact, maybe
I *should* contact him and just tell him that one point.
And as Dave noted, some people like him probably
don't want their glass cloth folded. For me, I
only needed a square foot maybe. For things he
does, he may want 3 yards of unbroken fibers.
So I can see why they might roll it.....i just think
that before they ship, if it's going to go oversize,
they should call first.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/21/2011 9:47 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I would forward your comments to Jim Irwin. You just might get some relief.
>
> On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 7:18 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>>
>
> So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
> and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
> good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
> enter on the order because it said Hazard by
> the line items. I called and they said that
> it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
> such a reason. No worries. My other line items
> were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
> Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
> for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
> should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
> With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
> go.
>
> Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
> nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
> to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
> from their GA location, and it would prevent
> hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
> save me some money. Still all good.
>
> Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
> Called to figure out why. Just found out...
> They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
> to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
> flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
> be cheap.
>
> Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
> I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
> shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
> But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
> because some people like it that way. And, due to
> the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
> the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
> the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
> I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
> shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
> at least.
>
> I've heard this same thing happens to people who
> buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
> They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
> long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
>
> So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
> work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
> order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
> flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
> way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
> I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
> don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
> That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
> to about $139.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
> ====__==============================__=
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__Navigator?RV10-List
> ====__==============================__=
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ====__==============================__=
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__contribution
> ====__==============================__=
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
Cool, I looked hard for a supplier and found that ACS was as
good as the boat suppliers, so went there, but next time
I'll definitely look at these guys. Always like to hear
a good referral.
So is this a brand new -10, or did you pick up someone's
kit that they gave up on? What's the builder number?
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 6/21/2011 10:03 AM, Stein Bruch wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"<stein@steinair.com>
>
> For composite materials I typically like to use "FIBREGLAST"
> (www.fibreglast.com). The stuff sometimes is a little bit more expensive,
> but given the fact that composites is all they do, they do it well and their
> staff is very knowledgeable.
>
> Regarding shipping, it can be pricey...but here's a real world example. My
> last order from them was almost $465 and included a bunch of epoxy,
> polyurethane liquid mix foam, microballoons, glass cloth, carbon cloth,
> talc, brushes, squeegees, etc.. The total charge for shipping on that order
> was $59.
>
> Anyway, not saying you have to buy the stuff from them, just an option that
> I've found fairly reliable over the years. Like everything, you can find
> some of it cheaper if you spend the time but that company bridges the gap
> between price, knowledge and reliability....overall kind of like my shop! :)
>
> My 2 cents as usual.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Stein
>
> BTW...we can officially post in the RV-10 section now that we (Jed) actually
> have an RV10 kit in the back going together!!!!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 9:19 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>
> So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
> and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
> good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
> enter on the order because it said Hazard by
> the line items. I called and they said that
> it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
> such a reason. No worries. My other line items
> were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
> Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
> for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
> should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
> With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
> go.
>
> Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
> nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
> to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
> from their GA location, and it would prevent
> hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
> save me some money. Still all good.
>
> Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
> Called to figure out why. Just found out...
> They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
> to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
> flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
> be cheap.
>
> Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
> I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
> shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
> But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
> because some people like it that way. And, due to
> the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
> the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
> the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
> I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
> shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
> at least.
>
> I've heard this same thing happens to people who
> buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
> They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
> long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
>
> So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
> work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
> order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
> flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
> way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
> I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
> don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
> That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
> to about $139.
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
stein(at)steinair.com wrote:
> BTW...we can officially post in the RV-10 section now that we (Jed) actually
have an RV10 kit in the back going together!!!!!
> --
Well it's about time. [Mr. Green]
Good going Jed :D
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343653#343653
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
I had the same problem with Vans. They send me a $20 piece of angke aluminum that
cost $125 to ship!! They didn't bother to mention that to me..... But when
I inquired, they apologized and we split the shipping cost.
I would have purchased it locally if I had known.....
-Mike Kraus
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 21, 2011, at 11:03 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I could complain up the ladder, but my intention
> isn't to get them to eat the cost. I just think that
> they should adopt a policy where ANYTHING that ships
> oversize, requires either a customer note first that
> was on the order, or a phone call to verify. That
> would have fixed my issue completely. In fact, maybe
> I *should* contact him and just tell him that one point.
>
> And as Dave noted, some people like him probably
> don't want their glass cloth folded. For me, I
> only needed a square foot maybe. For things he
> does, he may want 3 yards of unbroken fibers.
> So I can see why they might roll it.....i just think
> that before they ship, if it's going to go oversize,
> they should call first.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 6/21/2011 9:47 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> I would forward your comments to Jim Irwin. You just might get some relief.
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 7:18 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com
>> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>>
>>
>> So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
>> and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
>> good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
>> enter on the order because it said Hazard by
>> the line items. I called and they said that
>> it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
>> such a reason. No worries. My other line items
>> were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
>> Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
>> for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
>> should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
>> With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
>> go.
>>
>> Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
>> nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
>> to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
>> from their GA location, and it would prevent
>> hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
>> save me some money. Still all good.
>>
>> Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
>> Called to figure out why. Just found out...
>> They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
>> to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
>> flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
>> be cheap.
>>
>> Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
>> I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
>> shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
>> But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
>> because some people like it that way. And, due to
>> the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
>> the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
>> the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
>> I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
>> shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
>> at least.
>>
>> I've heard this same thing happens to people who
>> buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
>> They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
>> long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
>>
>> So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
>> work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
>> order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
>> flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
>> way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
>> I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
>> don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
>> That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
>> to about $139.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>> ====__==============================__=
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__Navigator?RV10-List
>> ====__==============================__=
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ====__==============================__=
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/__contribution
>> ====__==============================__=
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings |
What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes
that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel
under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two
brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing
in half?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
Message 14
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| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
I buy all my fiberglass from www.thayercraft.com
West Epoxy comes from a local marina (cheaper than all the online
sources) or www.JamestownDistributors.com when the local guys are out.
2-part urethane foam comes from www.uscomposites.com
neal
-----Original Message-----
Cool, I looked hard for a supplier and found that ACS was as
good as the boat suppliers, so went there, but next time
I'll definitely look at these guys. Always like to hear
a good referral.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings |
Or just a single cut....
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 21, 2011, at 11:56 AM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>
> What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes that already
have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel under the front
seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two brackets the original went
through. Do you just split the snap bushing in half?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings |
Just cut them and slip on the tube. No problem.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343658#343658
Message 17
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| Subject: | Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings |
I just cut it on the band saw on the side between the fingers that hold it
in place.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes
that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel
under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two
brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing
in half?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings |
Thanks everyone...
-Sean
On 6/21/11 12:08 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"<ibspud@roadrunner.com>
>
> I just cut it on the band saw on the side between the fingers that hold it
> in place.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes
> that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel
> under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two
> brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing
> in half?
> Thanks,
> -Sean #40303
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Fairing Construction - How to? |
Tim:
Go to VAnsairforce site and search for posts by Dan Horton (DanH). He is
the man on fiberglass construction. Read his tutorials on making fairings.
He makes it look easy....
Richard Bibb
571-379-3290 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 12:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg. On mine,
I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a
pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air
coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
cowl. Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as
something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen
references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it
a whirl.
So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,
maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.
What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using
that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,
so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
seem to be tough.
Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
fiberglass.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Fairing Construction - How to? |
Seems like making a actuating aluminum scoop would be a cleaner installatio
n than putting an intake in that area.
If one is hell bend on making a vent=2C use duct tape as a parting agent be
tween the painted cowl and the fabicated part.
Laminate up some foam=2C a heavy density blue foam or Spider foam works gre
at. You can adhere the foam to the Duct tape with Bondo.
Shape it with saws=2C cheese grader=2C rasps=2C files or what every suits y
our fancy.
Hand sand it with 80 grit down to 180. Blow off dust with compressed air. l
aminate with microballons.
Shape and sand again.
Laminate with several layers of glass and resin=2C a satin weave would work
best on the compound angles. Let cure.
Hollow out the foam with tools or spill fuel on a foam that desolves.
WaLLAAA!
> From: rbibb@tomet.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
> Date: Tue=2C 21 Jun 2011 14:35:43 -0400
>
>
> Tim:
>
> Go to VAnsairforce site and search for posts by Dan Horton (DanH). He is
> the man on fiberglass construction. Read his tutorials on making fairings
.
> He makes it look easy....
>
> Richard Bibb
> 571-379-3290 mobile
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday=2C June 21=2C 2011 12:15 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
>
>
> I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had
> significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the
> excess slot in the lower cowl=2C in front of the gear leg. On mine=2C
> I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing=2C so there's a
> pretty significant hole there=2C and=2C the theory is=2C the air
> coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
> attack=2C and flow into that hole=2C adding pressure to the lower
> cowl=2C decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
> cowl. Funny thing is=2C I had been pondering this before as
> something that I thought would happen=2C but now that I've seen
> references to someone getting significant temp improvement by
> putting a fairing over that spot=2C I think I'd like to give it
> a whirl.
>
> So=2C I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches
> to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg=2C
> maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front
> of the gear leg=2C to give room for flexing.
>
> What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to
> get a well shaped fairing? I can picture building a mold
> on the cowl with clay and molding over it=2C and then using
> that mold to create the new fairing. But I'm just not
> sure what types of techniques would be best for building this
> glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed
> RV-10? I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg=2C
> so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would
> seem to be tough.
>
> Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the
> fiberglass.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
Hey John,
Maybe I misunderstood, but I think the idea is to close off that area,
not create an intake. Otherwise, good fiberglass fun stuff!
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: RV 10 group
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
Seems like making a actuating aluminum scoop would be a cleaner
installation than putting an intake in that area.
If one is hell bend on making a vent, use duct tape as a parting agent
between the painted cowl and the fabicated part.
Laminate up some foam, a heavy density blue foam or Spider foam works
great. You can adhere the foam to the Duct tape with Bondo.
Shape it with saws, cheese grader, rasps, files or what every suits
your fancy.
Hand sand it with 80 grit down to 180. Blow off dust with compressed
air. laminate with microballons.
Shape and sand again.
Laminate with several layers of glass and resin, a satin weave would
work best on the compound angles. Let cure.
Hollow out the foam with tools or spill fuel on a foam that desolves.
WaLLAAA!
Message 22
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| Subject: | Fairing Construction - How to? |
Silly me creating things for the sake of creation and not for reason.
I was thinking that he wanted to create a venturi and was hoping to suck mo
re air in through the front end by having a more direct route for air going
out the back end.
Sealing it would be even easier=2C just make a spring loaded device that re
tracts when the gear leg pushes on it.
From: lewgall@charter.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
Hey John=2C
Maybe I misunderstood=2C but I think the idea is to close off that area=2C
not create an intake. Otherwise=2C good fiberglass fun stuff!
Later=2C - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday=2C June 21=2C 2011 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?
Seems like making a actuating aluminum scoop would be a cleaner installatio
n than putting an intake in that area.
If one is hell bend on making a vent=2C use duct tape as a parting agent be
tween the painted cowl and the fabicated part.
Laminate up some foam=2C a heavy density blue foam or Spider foam works gre
at. You can adhere the foam to the Duct tape with Bondo.
Shape it with saws=2C cheese grader=2C rasps=2C files or what every suits y
our fancy.
Hand sand it with 80 grit down to 180. Blow off dust with compressed air. l
aminate with microballons.
Shape and sand again.
Laminate with several layers of glass and resin=2C a satin weave would work
best on the compound angles. Let cure.
Hollow out the foam with tools or spill fuel on a foam that desolves.
WaLLAAA!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
Tim:
West System products are very popular in boating world, any bigger boat
dealer will probably have what you need, there should plenty of them in your
area. I buy it locally.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
So yesterday I ordered up my fiberglass cloth
and some West System epoxy since mine isn't
good any longer. I called ACS before I hit
enter on the order because it said Hazard by
the line items. I called and they said that
it wouldn't have hazardous fees, for such and
such a reason. No worries. My other line items
were 4 or 5 different weights and types of
Glass cloth, so I could have some variety
for things if I wanted. Total weight maybe
should have been 5 lbs or so maybe, tops.
With no hazardous fees, I was happy and good to
go.
Got a call after ordering (a voicemail) and a
nice lady said she changed my shipping from 3-day
to ground, because Ground would be the same speed
from their GA location, and it would prevent
hazardous fees if it went by air, and it would
save me some money. Still all good.
Got my invoice, and it was almost $50 in shipping.
Called to figure out why. Just found out...
They shipped in 2 boxes, with the epoxy separate,
to keep it away from the cloth..perhaps a
flammability issue. no big deal...2 boxes should
be cheap.
Where they went haywire was the cloth, of all things.
I had ordered 1 yard of 4 or 5 different types. It
shouldn't have weighed more than a couple lbs.
But, they ROLLED it, on a roll, not folded at all,
because some people like it that way. And, due to
the oversize length dimension, it was then billed at
the 30lbs!!!! shipping rate. They called about
the shipping change to ground...which was nice, but
I sure wish they'd have called about the oversize
shipping. I'd have told them to fold it in half
at least.
I've heard this same thing happens to people who
buy heatshrink, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
They don't roll the heatshrink but send it in long
long boxes in sections....which then costs a ton.
So, don't assume that ACS will actual think, and always
work in what YOU think is your best interest. If you
order ANYTHING that is possible it could be shipped
flat, assume that they'll ship it in the worst possible
way. From now on, even if I ordered rope from them,
I'm going to specify "please coil rope"....so they
don't ship me a 40' rope on a semi flatbed.
That brought the cost of my little nose fairing up
to about $139.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info |
I am still fine tuning all the settings during phase one. One area that I am
not sure about is the % horsepower settings entered. I have the engine
manual and using the chart "sea level and altitude performance data
IO-540-D.." have tried to derive the required data for input..
Required inputs: For various RPM settings: MAP 55% and MAP75% settings -
Also the HP delta at different altitudes.
I have extracted some MAP numbers at the two HP settings from the charts and
it seems more like educated guesses than good info and not really sure how
to get the HP delta numbers. If someone has the info readily available, I
would really appreciate sending the data for reference. More importantly if
there is some info available on how best to generate the numbers from the
manual - it would be greatly appreciated. Feeling pretty ignorant at the
moment...
I didn't see anything in the archives relative. If you want to pm me at
bgill1(at)charter(dot)net it would be appreciated.
Byron
N253RV Phase one..
Message 25
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| Subject: | AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info |
If your AFS is and EM only, the %HP doesn't work yet - they haven't finished
the software to get altitude in to the equation from your GPS.....
%HP was one of the features that convinced me to go with AFS....I have since
upgraded it to SP with s processor and new screen and %HP now works - as it
can get altitude from the SP altimeter....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron&Donya
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 9:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info
I am still fine tuning all the settings during phase one. One area that I am
not sure about is the % horsepower settings entered. I have the engine
manual and using the chart "sea level and altitude performance data
IO-540-D.." have tried to derive the required data for input..
Required inputs: For various RPM settings: MAP 55% and MAP75% settings -
Also the HP delta at different altitudes.
I have extracted some MAP numbers at the two HP settings from the charts and
it seems more like educated guesses than good info and not really sure how
to get the HP delta numbers. If someone has the info readily available, I
would really appreciate sending the data for reference. More importantly if
there is some info available on how best to generate the numbers from the
manual - it would be greatly appreciated. Feeling pretty ignorant at the
moment...
I didn't see anything in the archives relative. If you want to pm me at
bgill1(at)charter(dot)net it would be appreciated.
Byron
N253RV Phase one..
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
A few years ago I ordered an aircraft battery, plus about 8 oz of small parts,
from ACS. The ACS catalog said "Free shipping on batteries".
When I got it, there was a $25 shipping charge. When I complained, they said "You
didn't SPECIFY that you wanted free shipping". Duh.
I complained some more, and they said, "Okay, but we'll charge shipping and handling
on the other parts." I said fine.
They charged me $8 S&H for the other parts. These were so small and light that
they had been stuffed into the battery box- it really didn't cost them anything
more to ship them. Not a lot of money, just the principle.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343715#343715
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
Tim makes a good point to ask about shipping costs.It costs a lot to ship t
he stuff we use-ask about crating and shipping a canopy frame from Oregon t
o California-more than the cost of the frame,same with a canopy from Todds
in Florida .I for one have found aircraft spruce invaluable with my various
projects there huge inventory of parts shipped efficiently for the most pa
rt and there catalog is an excellent reference and they have virtually ever
ything .Nothing in my world is perfect but ACS has been a real asset for me
.Also ACS has no minimum order and will ship us mail.Very efficient when yo
u need two dollars worth of nuts and bolts.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
Sent: Tue, Jun 21, 2011 8:31 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
A few years ago I ordered an aircraft battery, plus about 8 oz of small par
ts,
rom ACS. The ACS catalog said "Free shipping on batteries".
When I got it, there was a $25 shipping charge. When I complained, they sai
d
You didn't SPECIFY that you wanted free shipping". Duh.
I complained some more, and they said, "Okay, but we'll charge shipping and
andling on the other parts." I said fine.
They charged me $8 S&H for the other parts. These were so small and light t
hat
hey had been stuffed into the battery box- it really didn't cost them anyth
ing
ore to ship them. Not a lot of money, just the principle.
Bob
--------
ob Turner
V-10 QB
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343715#343715
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