Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre (Werner Schneider)
2. 03:39 AM - Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre (DLM)
3. 07:12 AM - Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre (Dave Saylor)
4. 07:48 AM - Re: Fisher House RV-10 (Tim Lewis)
5. 08:11 AM - Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre (Werner Schneider)
6. 08:40 AM - Cylinder front baffle question (Michael Kraus)
7. 08:56 AM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (David)
8. 09:26 AM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Kevin Belue)
9. 09:35 AM - Re: Minimum disatance for multiple GPS antenna placement? (Patrick Thyssen)
10. 09:39 AM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Strasnuts)
11. 11:18 AM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Bruce Johnson)
12. 11:22 AM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Bob Turner)
13. 12:36 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Bob Leffler)
14. 12:55 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Kelly McMullen)
15. 01:03 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Seano)
16. 01:03 PM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Kelly McMullen)
17. 01:08 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Seano)
18. 01:20 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Rene Felker)
19. 01:29 PM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Michael Kraus)
20. 01:36 PM - Alternator (Rene Felker)
21. 04:09 PM - Paint and chute (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
22. 04:24 PM - Re: Greg Hale is in Sport Aviation this month (AirMike)
23. 08:02 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Kelly McMullen)
24. 08:10 PM - Re: Re: Greg Hale is in Sport Aviation this month (Kelly McMullen)
25. 08:28 PM - Re: Cylinder front baffle question (David Leikam)
26. 08:59 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Kelly McMullen)
27. 09:01 PM - Re: Re: Cylinder front baffle question (Rene)
28. 09:22 PM - Re: Greg Hale is in Sport Aviation this month (greghale)
29. 09:32 PM - Desert sandstorm PHX area (woxofswa)
30. 09:35 PM - Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area (woxofswa)
31. 09:48 PM - Re: Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area (Kelly McMullen)
32. 10:02 PM - Re: Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area (Dave Saylor)
33. 10:13 PM - Re: Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre |
Dave,
where did you get that silicon baffling material, need to replace my old
black one and I think that read silicon is way better!
Cheers Werner
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre |
Aircraft Spruce ; it's 1/8" thick.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre
>
> Dave,
>
> where did you get that silicon baffling material, need to replace my old
> black one and I think that read silicon is way better!
>
> Cheers Werner
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre |
05-00770 is the P/N from Spruce. This one is reinforced with
fiberglass. It holds up a little better.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 12:10 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> where did you get that silicon baffling material, need to replace my old
> black one and I think that read silicon is way better!
>
> Cheers Werner
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fisher House RV-10 |
Cool!
I noticed the ridge aft of the door on the cabin. Did you put a
parachute recovery system on the plane? If so, I'd love to hear about it.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 160 hrs
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy said the following on 6/28/2011 11:38 PM:
>
> Paint is finally complete!
>
> Somewhere during the (long) building process, we decided to give N52KS
> a little side mission to promote the Fisher House Foundation with the
> airplane. For those not familiar, the Fisher House Foundation
> constructs the Fisher Houses, which are a place to stay for family
> members while a loved one is undergoing treatment at a neighboring
> military hospital or VA medical center.
>
> Paint is by Prestige Aircraft in Swanton, VT.
>
> Look for us at Oshkosh, parked with the other Airventure Cup racers.
> (anyone else racing?)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> N52KS #40025
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Plenum Vs Carbon Fibre |
Many thanks Dave,
will order a bunch to get my Glastars temp down again until the 10 is
ready :)
Cheers Werner
On 05.07.2011 16:09, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> 05-00770 is the P/N from Spruce. This one is reinforced with
> fiberglass. It holds up a little better.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 12:10 AM, Werner Schneider<glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider<glastar@gmx.net>
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>> where did you get that silicon baffling material, need to replace my old
>> black one and I think that read silicon is way better!
>>
>> Cheers Werner
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Cylinder front baffle question |
Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little ones
on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders?
Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
Mine are totally removed with my current inlet setup. Mine is a bit
different than most due to the AC compressor installation that
affects the LH inlet. Prior to this setup, I flew with the RH cut
down about 50%. I believe there are many flying with partial or no
front baffles. My hangar neighbor took both of his out to solve
cooling issues on a stock setup.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jul 5, 2011, at 11:38 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles,
> the little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to
> the #1 and #2 cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
>
> Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
>
> Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
I never installed mine. CHT are all within 30.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 5, 2011, at 10:38 AM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
> Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little
ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders?
Stock size is about 2.5".
>
> Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
>
> Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum disatance for multiple GPS antenna placement? |
Garmin also states to avoid mounting antenna closer than 3 inches from the
windscreen to avoid degradation and to maintain a constant gain pattern. From
430W manual. So who ever put it under a plexi glass and right next to each
other, if you have trouble that might be the reason.
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
________________________________
From: Seano <sean@braunandco.com>
Sent: Sun, July 3, 2011 1:59:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minimum disatance for multiple GPS antenna placement?
Garmin states min edge distance as 6" and offset from each other. That's from
the g3x manual for distance between the g3x gps/XM and another gps antenna such
as the 430w.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 3, 2011, at 14:19, "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if there's a min distance requirement for placing GPS
>Antennas? One for GNS430W and the other for Navworx ADS-B GPS... I have the
>GNS430W GPS Ant mounted just aft of the cabin top.
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344803#344803
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the hottest CHT.
My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on the front
of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final size before
I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I still haven't
taken the time to really seal the baffles.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344979#344979
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
HI Michael, I took mine out after running them for-20 hrs. It reduced my
temps about 20 degrees. Now instead of # 2 being the warmest # 6 is by abou
t 25 degrees.-=0A=0A=0AFrom: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 8:38 AM=0ASubj
ect: RV10-List: Cylinder front baffle question=0A=0A--> RV10-List message p
osted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>=0A=0AJust curious what
the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little ones on the fr
ont of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders?- Stock
size is about 2.5".=0A=0AIs anyone flying with them totally removed?- =0A
=0AJust curious what the different sizes are out there...=0A-Mike Kraus=0A
====================
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
Note: I'm still in phase 1.
My front cylinders were hotter than the others. I cut 1/2" off each air dam.
#1 was still hottest, so I removed the air dam there. Result is that now #5 cht
is hotter than #1. #2 is still slightly hotter than others on the left side.
Now, I think:
I need to cut another 1/2" off the #2 air dam, and put the #1 back on but with
most of the material removed.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344990#344990
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with cooling
issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can I
get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the hottest
CHT. My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on the
front of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final
size before I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I
still haven't taken the time to really seal the baffles.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344979#344979
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
We are only talking some pieces of flat 2024 with one right angle,
correct? Why not make some identical trial pieces to get size right,
then take the final pieces, adjust size and powder coat? They will just
have 2-3 rivets holding them that won't be powder coated. Not sure it
makes sense to try and finalize all the baffling and then powder coat as
one unit.
On 7/5/2011 12:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler"<rv@thelefflers.com>
>
> That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
> decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with cooling
> issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can I
> get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:37 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"<sean@braunandco.com>
>
> I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the hottest
> CHT. My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on the
> front of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final
> size before I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I
> still haven't taken the time to really seal the baffles.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344979#344979
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
so Bob,
I know they are all different but if I was to do it over on mine, I would
leave 3/4 on the 1,3,5 side and half on the 2,4,6 side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 1:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>
> That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
> decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with
> cooling
> issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can
> I
> get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:37 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>
>
> I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the
> hottest
> CHT. My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on
> the
> front of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final
> size before I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I
> still haven't taken the time to really seal the baffles.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344979#344979
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
If your rear cylinders are hotter than front you need some of the
baffles. That is their purpose, to even up the cooling between front
and rear. Finding the right size to minimize differences is part of
your initial flight testing.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> HI Michael, I took mine out after running them for20 hrs. It reduced my
> temps about 20 degrees. Now instead of # 2 being the warmest # 6 is by about
> 25 degrees.
>
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 8:38 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder front baffle question
>
>
> Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the
> little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2
> cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
>
> Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
>
> Just curious what the different sizes are out there. --> nbsp;
> ======================
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
I like it. Maybe have a bunch powdercoated and use little bolts on the
front and trade them out until it is right.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>
> We are only talking some pieces of flat 2024 with one right angle,
> correct? Why not make some identical trial pieces to get size right, then
> take the final pieces, adjust size and powder coat? They will just have
> 2-3 rivets holding them that won't be powder coated. Not sure it makes
> sense to try and finalize all the baffling and then powder coat as one
> unit.
>
>
> On 7/5/2011 12:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler"<rv@thelefflers.com>
>>
>> That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
>> decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with
>> cooling
>> issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then
>> can I
>> get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:37 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"<sean@braunandco.com>
>>
>> I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the
>> hottest
>> CHT. My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on
>> the
>> front of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final
>> size before I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I
>> still haven't taken the time to really seal the baffles.
>>
>> --------
>> 40936
>> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344979#344979
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
Just to throw a little gas on this fire. I did cut my baffles down a
little, but was concerned with the other end of spectrum...shock cooling.
My temps were real high over the first XX hours, but got better as the
engine was broken in. I wish my cooling was better, but have not seen
anything that would be worth trying....at least not beyond what I have
already done. I just came out of ABQ yesterday and my oil temp got up to
225 and a couple of cylinders were at 410. I just slowed down my climb to
get the temperatures in line and pressed on to my initial cruising altitude
of 14500.
I get many more shock cooling alarms then I do over temp......so I have
decided to stick with what I got for right now. I may try to close up the
gap in the lower cowl in front of the front gear leg, but that would only be
if I open up the slot more to allow the lower cowl to be R&R'd easier.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
so Bob,
I know they are all different but if I was to do it over on mine, I would
leave 3/4 on the 1,3,5 side and half on the 2,4,6 side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 1:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>
> That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
> decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with
> cooling
> issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can
> I
> get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:37 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
>
>
> I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the
> hottest
> CHT. My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on
> the
> front of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final
> size before I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I
> still haven't taken the time to really seal the baffles.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344979#344979
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
Thanks Kelly, I am aware of how they work, but that wasn't my question. I am working
on balancing mine now. Mine seem best with them removed. 1 and 2 were
my hottest, followed by #5 and #6. I'm just curious with what others are seeing
and if others have them totally removed. It appears that lots of people do
have them removed.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 5, 2011, at 3:59 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> If your rear cylinders are hotter than front you need some of the
> baffles. That is their purpose, to even up the cooling between front
> and rear. Finding the right size to minimize differences is part of
> your initial flight testing.
>
> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Bruce Johnson
> <bruce1hwjohnson@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> HI Michael, I took mine out after running them for 20 hrs. It reduced my
>> temps about 20 degrees. Now instead of # 2 being the warmest # 6 is by about
>> 25 degrees.
>>
>> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 8:38 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder front baffle question
>>
>>
>> Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the
>> little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2
>> cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
>>
>> Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
>>
>> Just curious what the different sizes are out there. --> nbsp;
>> ======================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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Lost my alternator yesterday coming back from ABQ. I was about 150 NM (as
the crow flies) from Ogden (OGD). I have an 8 amp standby alternator and it
worked great. I turned off the FM radio, but left everything else running
(no lights) and the alternator kept up (between 1 and 2 amp drain) as long
as I was running cruse RPM. As I slowed down, the drain was higher. So,
this is the first "real" test of my standby alternator.
Here is my basic set up....
A battery in the standard location (925) with its own contactor
A battery on the firewall (680) with its own contactor
Vans 60 amp alternator in the standard position
B&C 8 amp alternator on the vacuum pump pad
I have one three way switch for the main battery and Alternator (off -
Battery - Battery/Alternator)
I have one three way switch for the backup battery and Alternator (off -
Battery - Battery/Alternator)
The only part I don't like about my system......I put the amp meter sensor
on the line going to the main battery. That means I do not really know what
is happening to the backup battery....from a charge/discharge point of view.
So, once the main Alternator failed...I decided to isolate the main battery
and run off the standby battery only, losing my charge/discharge reading. I
brought the main battery back on line when I contact Ogden tower for
landing......
FYI I have the old style Alternator Vans sold in the past, not the Plane
Power one they sell today.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
Message 21
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A couple of folks asked about the unique ridge running down the side of our
RV-10, and yes, that is a fairing over one of the riser cables for the bal
listic parachute. Stop by at Oshkosh and check it out if you'd like. For
us, it added about $10,000, 100 pounds, and a year to the project!
But it was a fun engineering challenge!
Tim
N52KS
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Greg Hale is in Sport Aviation this month |
While I am loathe to criticize Greg Hale, I appreciate the pointed comments of
Van. In my humble opinion, the Vans planes are designed to be light, efficient,
good load carriers. I built mine with that idea in mind , and at 1620 lbs. (including
tow bar), I have 780 lbs. Of payload with full tanks. The factory seats
are awesome, and the idea of making almost any modification to this design
is, in my opinion, a poor decision. I have only 3 modifications to the original
design - S/S air box , inspection panels to under flooring, and Bonaco fuel
lines. Each mod adds weight even these modest changes probably added 1-2 lbs.
and added man-hours to the build.
I think that if you buy into the Vans concept, you will build quicker,
have less challenges, and get more satisfaction out of your RV-10. Vans put a
lot of engineering into the 10. Why re-invent the wheel.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345039#345039
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
You must have a tight cooling limit set on your system(maybe 20 or 30
degrees). There is no way you are going to "shock cool" a naturally
aspirated engine with air cooling. If it were possible, engines flying
through rain or operating in the arctic would be breaking all over the
place. When you pull power, even from 410 degrees, the engine is only
going to cool to 270, maybe 250 over 3-5 minutes.
It heats a whole lot faster, in 10-20 seconds when you apply full
power for take off. That is the quickest any temperature change is
going to happen. I'd suggest changing your alarm to 50 degrees. It
will be very rare for that to go off. Shock cooling in the context of
naturally aspirated engines is simply an old wives tale.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 1:16 PM, Rene Felker <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
> Just to throw a little gas on this fire. I did cut my baffles down a
> little, but was concerned with the other end of spectrum...shock cooling.
> My temps were real high over the first XX hours, but got better as the
> engine was broken in. I wish my cooling was better, but have not seen
> anything that would be worth trying....at least not beyond what I have
> already done. I just came out of ABQ yesterday and my oil temp got up to
> 225 and a couple of cylinders were at 410. I just slowed down my climb to
> get the temperatures in line and pressed on to my initial cruising altitude
> of 14500.
>
> I get many more shock cooling alarms then I do over temp......so I have
> decided to stick with what I got for right now. I may try to close up the
> gap in the lower cowl in front of the front gear leg, but that would only be
> if I open up the slot more to allow the lower cowl to be R&R'd easier.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Greg Hale is in Sport Aviation this month |
Well, since you asked, about re-inventing the wheel, there is no way I
would install the stock Van's nose wheel setup. I bought the full
Matco setup, axle, spacers and proper wheel. It took me longer to read
and absorb the instructions than it did for me to put it together. It
is likely to be very low maintenance compared to the factory torque,
shimmy, torque, find nose fork galled and try to figure a fix.
Also would not consider flying with Van's door latches without
modification. Sean's latch is a far better design than the factory
weak attempt.
No question mods add to the build time and take very careful consideration.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 4:21 PM, AirMike <Mikeabel@pacbell.net> wrote:
> I think that if you buy into the Vans concept, you will build quicker, have
less challenges, and get more satisfaction out of your RV-10. Vans put a lot
of engineering into the 10. Why re-invent the wheel.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345039#345039
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
Totally removed them. Good temps.
David Leikam
RV10
Flying
On Jul 5, 2011, at 10:38 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little
ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders?
Stock size is about 2.5".
>
> Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
>
> Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
One other idea Bob. Don't install baffles for phase one. Experiment with
aluminum tape pasted on the front cylinders. When you get it right, trim
baffles to match, powder coat and install.
On 7/5/2011 12:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler"<rv@thelefflers.com>
>
> That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
> decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with cooling
> issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can I
> get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
I will look at that again, but I think it is set to 50 degrees a minute. If
I remember right , it is a rate setting in the GRT system. I will check
that tomorrow when I am at the hanger.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cylinder front baffle question
You must have a tight cooling limit set on your system(maybe 20 or 30
degrees). There is no way you are going to "shock cool" a naturally
aspirated engine with air cooling. If it were possible, engines flying
through rain or operating in the arctic would be breaking all over the
place. When you pull power, even from 410 degrees, the engine is only going
to cool to 270, maybe 250 over 3-5 minutes.
It heats a whole lot faster, in 10-20 seconds when you apply full power for
take off. That is the quickest any temperature change is going to happen.
I'd suggest changing your alarm to 50 degrees. It will be very rare for that
to go off. Shock cooling in the context of naturally aspirated engines is
simply an old wives tale.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 1:16 PM, Rene Felker <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
> Just to throw a little gas on this fire. I did cut my baffles down a
> little, but was concerned with the other end of spectrum...shock cooling.
> My temps were real high over the first XX hours, but got better as the
> engine was broken in. I wish my cooling was better, but have not seen
> anything that would be worth trying....at least not beyond what I have
> already done. I just came out of ABQ yesterday and my oil temp got up
> to
> 225 and a couple of cylinders were at 410. I just slowed down my
> climb to get the temperatures in line and pressed on to my initial
> cruising altitude of 14500.
>
> I get many more shock cooling alarms then I do over temp......so I
> have decided to stick with what I got for right now. I may try to
> close up the gap in the lower cowl in front of the front gear leg, but
> that would only be if I open up the slot more to allow the lower cowl to
be R&R'd easier.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Greg Hale is in Sport Aviation this month |
Guys I understand where Van's coming from, but the whole idea of building my own
airplane is to be able to personalize the airplane the way I want it. I have
posted a '"My thoughts and explanations" on my web site to show my point of
view. My gross weight is 2700#.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/my_thoughts.pdf
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345069#345069
Message 29
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| Subject: | Desert sandstorm PHX area |
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345071#345071
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area |
These were from my backyard this evening. We were relaxing in the pool when my
wife said "hey look at that". 10 mins later the vis was about ten feet.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345072#345072
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area |
Yup, went on for over an hour in Sun Lakes, deposited about 1/8" of
fresh soil on the patio. Vis was definitely less than 100 ft most of
the time with a few periods down around 10-20 ft. Not looking forward
to cleaning hangar in the morning with whatever blew through the poor
seals and deposited on the project.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:32 PM, woxofswa <woxof@aol.com> wrote:
>
> These were from my backyard this evening. We were relaxing in the pool when my
wife said "hey look at that". 10 mins later the vis was about ten feet.
>
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345072#345072
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area |
Bluh. Like fiberglass fallout without the progress...I'll take earthquakes!
Do not archive
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:46 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yup, went on for over an hour in Sun Lakes, deposited about 1/8" of
> fresh soil on the patio. Vis was definitely less than 100 ft most of
> the time with a few periods down around 10-20 ft. Not looking forward
> to cleaning hangar in the morning with whatever blew through the poor
> seals and deposited on the project.
>
> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:32 PM, woxofswa <woxof@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> These were from my backyard this evening. We were relaxing in the pool when
my wife said "hey look at that". 10 mins later the vis was about ten feet.
>>
>>
>> --------
>> Myron Nelson
>> Mesa, AZ
>> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345072#345072
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Desert sandstorm PHX area |
Ya think I could spray some epoxy on it for a sanding coat? :'(
On 7/5/2011 9:58 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> Bluh. Like fiberglass fallout without the progress...I'll take earthquakes!
>
> Do not archive
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
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