Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Re: Re: OSH camp conditions report (Tim Olson)
2. 05:51 AM - OSH Notam (Tim Olson)
3. 06:43 AM - Re: OSH Notam (Phil Perry)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: OSH Notam (Phil Perry)
5. 06:52 AM - Re: OSH Notam (Jerry Calvert)
6. 08:10 AM - GPS (Chris Hukill)
7. 08:11 AM - So did they really rename Aeroshell Square? (Tim Olson)
8. 08:36 AM - Re: OSH camp conditions report (orchidman)
9. 08:39 AM - Re: So did they really rename Aeroshell Square? (tsts4)
10. 08:52 AM - Re: OSH Notam (Kelly McMullen)
11. 09:13 AM - Re: OSH Notam (tsts4)
12. 09:13 AM - Re: OSH Notam (Tim Olson)
13. 09:54 AM - Re: Oshkosh Cookout (Bob Condrey)
14. 12:58 PM - My "fix" for dragging brakes (billz)
15. 01:26 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Linn Walters)
16. 01:51 PM - Re: Re: OSH camp conditions report (Rick Beebe)
17. 02:08 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 02:08 PM - Re: Re: OSH camp conditions report (Kelly McMullen)
19. 02:26 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (billz)
20. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Linn Walters)
21. 03:30 PM - Re: OSH Notam (tsts4)
22. 04:26 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Phil Perry)
23. 07:25 PM - NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver Arrives... (Matt Dralle)
24. 08:24 PM - Re: NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver Arrives... (Tim Olson)
25. 08:38 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Tim Olson)
26. 09:04 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Rick)
27. 09:09 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Dave Saylor)
28. 09:43 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
29. 09:46 PM - Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camp conditions report |
Hi Ron,
To get the best sites, you'd probably want to drop everything
and leave NOW. But, to avoid the mass arrivals, you probably
should shoot for Saturday at the very latest. Most years
I've flown in Friday and it was very relaxed with very little
traffic. But Saturday thru Monday it is very hopping, so
avoid anything after Saturday a.m. if you don't like traffic.
Personally, I love it when it's busy, other than when some
schmo takes a digger on the runway and causes the traffic
to back up over Ripon, but I'm a bit weird that way.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 7/18/2011 3:06 PM, Ron B. wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ron B."<ronbelliveau@eastlink.ca>
>
> Thanks Tim Yes I think we plan on camping with out RV-10. I've never
> stayed overnight while at Oshkosh. I think we miss out on meeting a
> lot of people. I'm going to Oshkosh this year to hopefully meet with
> guy's like you and others I corresponded with on the various forums.
> I just received news that a prior commitment has been postponed so I
> can leave whenever I want now. What day would you suggest we arrive
> in order to get a half decent site and avoid the masses in arrival.
> Thanks Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=346915#346915
>
Message 2
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For those of you flying to OSH this year, make sure to
have a copy of the OSH NOTAM on your ipad, or at least
an old fashioned paper copy. I use "goodreader" on the
iPad and it's perfect for that sort of thing.
But don't go in there without one and don't go in
there unprepared. It will be wonderful if we can
enjoy a year with zero RV accidents, and everyone can
help keep our insurance reasonable and our pilots alive.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 3
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For the IPad users, download the Airventure App from sportys. It is awesome.
The NOTAM is in there (with quick reference bookmarks).
A full set of maps of the show.
Vendor guides with a search feature.
Full schedules of the workshops, forums, shows, etc.
They really did a great job on it. The only thing I'd like to see is the map have
a follow me dot with gps so you can see where you really are. Also it would
be cool to set a hit-list of vendors and such. So when you get within 100yrds
of vendor X, you get an alert to go out of your way and see them whole you're
close.
Download it though. It's a great app.
On Jul 19, 2011, at 7:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> For those of you flying to OSH this year, make sure to
> have a copy of the OSH NOTAM on your ipad, or at least
> an old fashioned paper copy. I use "goodreader" on the
> iPad and it's perfect for that sort of thing.
> But don't go in there without one and don't go in
> there unprepared. It will be wonderful if we can
> enjoy a year with zero RV accidents, and everyone can
> help keep our insurance reasonable and our pilots alive.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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For the IPad users, download the Airventure App from sportys. It is awesome.
The NOTAM is in there (with quick reference bookmarks).
A full set of maps of the show.
Vendor guides with a search feature.
Full schedules of the workshops, forums, shows, etc.
They really did a great job on it. The only thing I'd like to see is the map have
a follow me dot with gps so you can see where you really are. Also it would
be cool to set a hit-list of vendors and such. So when you get within 100yrds
of vendor X, you get an alert to go out of your way and see them whole you're
close.
Download it though. It's a great app.
On Jul 19, 2011, at 7:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> For those of you flying to OSH this year, make sure to
> have a copy of the OSH NOTAM on your ipad, or at least
> an old fashioned paper copy. I use "goodreader" on the
> iPad and it's perfect for that sort of thing.
> But don't go in there without one and don't go in
> there unprepared. It will be wonderful if we can
> enjoy a year with zero RV accidents, and everyone can
> help keep our insurance reasonable and our pilots alive.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Here are some videos on the EAA website that are helpful.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1034207682001 Flying into Air
Venture
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=106561215001 Flying into Air
Venture - A First Timer's Guide
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1055942969001 Flying the Fisk
Arrival
Jerry Calvert
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH Notam
For those of you flying to OSH this year, make sure to
have a copy of the OSH NOTAM on your ipad, or at least
an old fashioned paper copy. I use "goodreader" on the
iPad and it's perfect for that sort of thing.
But don't go in there without one and don't go in
there unprepared. It will be wonderful if we can
enjoy a year with zero RV accidents, and everyone can
help keep our insurance reasonable and our pilots alive.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 6
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I'm in there!
Chris Hukill
Message 7
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| Subject: | So did they really rename Aeroshell Square? |
Sounds like they call it ConocoPhilips Plaza now?
That's gonna be a hard one to switch to. :)
I don't even use aeroshell and I'll still have to
call it Aeroshell square.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camp conditions report |
Tim Olson wrote:
> Personally, I love it when it's busy, other than when some schmo takes a digger
on the runway and causes the traffic to back up over Ripon, but I'm a bit weird
that way.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
Or get behind a J-3 Cub. He has to fly almost straight down to get up to an airspeed
equal to our stall speed [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347041#347041
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: So did they really rename Aeroshell Square? |
Yep, IIRC sometime earlier this year EAA made an announcement about the change.
I also seemed to recall the major concern was whether the AeroShell cow posters
would still be available. :D
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347042#347042
Message 10
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Have to wonder what will happen to OSH wireless system with the new
invasion of iPads. Wonder if EAA will ever improve the response speed
of OSH365 forum. For me it has always been like molasses whether on
wireless or good hard wired broadband.
On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 6:41 AM, Phil Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> For the IPad users, download the Airventure App from sportys. It is awesome.
>
> The NOTAM is in there (with quick reference bookmarks).
> A full set of maps of the show.
> Vendor guides with a search feature.
> Full schedules of the workshops, forums, shows, etc.
>
> They really did a great job on it. The only thing I'd like to see is the map
have a follow me dot with gps so you can see where you really are. Also it would
be cool to set a hit-list of vendors and such. So when you get within 100yrds
of vendor X, you get an alert to go out of your way and see them whole you're
close.
>
> Download it though. It's a great app.
>
> On Jul 19, 2011, at 7:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> For those of you flying to OSH this year, make sure to
>> have a copy of the OSH NOTAM on your ipad, or at least
>> an old fashioned paper copy. I use "goodreader" on the
>> iPad and it's perfect for that sort of thing.
>> But don't go in there without one and don't go in
>> there unprepared. It will be wonderful if we can
>> enjoy a year with zero RV accidents, and everyone can
>> help keep our insurance reasonable and our pilots alive.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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They've already announced that they are ditching the current OSHKOSH365 software
after our continual complaints on how crappy it is. However, they haven't announced
what the replacement will be although if I was a betting man I'd place
my money on some version of vBulletin. They also had originally wanted to re-launch
prior to AirVenture but it doens't look like that's going to happen.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347048#347048
Message 12
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Alright everyone, download your charts and databases
BEFORE you get to Airventure! :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 7/19/2011 10:50 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> Have to wonder what will happen to OSH wireless system with the new
> invasion of iPads. Wonder if EAA will ever improve the response speed
> of OSH365 forum. For me it has always been like molasses whether on
> wireless or good hard wired broadband.
>
> On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 6:41 AM, Phil Perry<philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Phil Perry<philperry9@gmail.com>
>>
>> For the IPad users, download the Airventure App from sportys. It is awesome.
>>
>> The NOTAM is in there (with quick reference bookmarks).
>> A full set of maps of the show.
>> Vendor guides with a search feature.
>> Full schedules of the workshops, forums, shows, etc.
>>
>> They really did a great job on it. The only thing I'd like to see is the map
have a follow me dot with gps so you can see where you really are. Also it
would be cool to set a hit-list of vendors and such. So when you get within 100yrds
of vendor X, you get an alert to go out of your way and see them whole
you're close.
>>
>> Download it though. It's a great app.
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2011, at 7:47 AM, Tim Olson<Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>> For those of you flying to OSH this year, make sure to
>>> have a copy of the OSH NOTAM on your ipad, or at least
>>> an old fashioned paper copy. I use "goodreader" on the
>>> iPad and it's perfect for that sort of thing.
>>> But don't go in there without one and don't go in
>>> there unprepared. It will be wonderful if we can
>>> enjoy a year with zero RV accidents, and everyone can
>>> help keep our insurance reasonable and our pilots alive.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Cookout |
There are no specific plans at this point. We do however have space
available in Camp Scholler if you'd like to put something together.
Bob
On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 10:40 PM, Steve Roberts <swrpilot@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> Are there any plans to get together for a cookout this year? We will be
> there all week staying over by the museum.
>
> Last year's cookouts were great but I know a tremendous amount of effort
> went into them.
>
> Perhaps we could make it BYO everything including food and chairs if we had
> a grill available and a place/time to meet.
>
> Steve Roberts
> RV-10 Tailkit
> 1966 Mooney M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown TN
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | My "fix" for dragging brakes |
I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the forum, talked
with several folks and experienced the problem with a friend's RV-10.
1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the master cylinder
to fully extend when pressure is removed from the brake pedals. The last
1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for fluid to bypass internally allowing
the brake pads to retract. It doesn't take much to keep pressure on the
brake pads. My friend fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is important. They
should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes should be properly drilled
to assure free movement. The bolts should not be overly tightened, to minimize
drag.
3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the bottom of the
pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that can add resistance to the
pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing these with one long bolt. (I purchased
AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt
to provide a spacer inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part
# 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put over
the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on (to get enough
return force) were larger inside diameter than the aluminum tube so I found some
old garden hose to put over the tubing as a spacer.
As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force and work nicely
to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master cylinders. So far, it
seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since I'm not flying, a final report
will have to wait for the future. Does all this make sense from what others have
learned from experience??
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
Your spring idea is good. However placing a compression spring over the
cylinder shaft would be lighter and maybe more effective solution.
Linn
On 7/19/2011 3:53 PM, billz wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>
> I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the forum, talked
with several folks and experienced the problem with a friend's RV-10.
>
> 1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the master cylinder
to fully extend when pressure is removed from the brake pedals. The last
1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for fluid to bypass internally allowing
the brake pads to retract. It doesn't take much to keep pressure on the
brake pads. My friend fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
>
> 2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is important.
They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes should be properly drilled
to assure free movement. The bolts should not be overly tightened, to
minimize drag.
>
> 3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the bottom of the
pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that can add resistance to the
pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing these with one long bolt. (I purchased
AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt
to provide a spacer inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part
# 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put over
the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on (to get enough
return force) were larger inside diameter than the aluminum tube so I found
some old garden hose to put over the tubing as a spacer.
>
> As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force and work nicely
to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master cylinders. So far,
it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since I'm not flying, a final report
will have to wait for the future. Does all this make sense from what others
have learned from experience??
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camp conditions report |
On 07/19/2011 08:45 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> To get the best sites, you'd probably want to drop everything
> and leave NOW. But, to avoid the mass arrivals, you probably
> should shoot for Saturday at the very latest.
Mass arrivals:
Saturday 1:00pm - Bonanza & Cherokee
Saturday 2:30pm - Cessna
Saturday 4:00pm - Mooney
Sunday 11:30am - Comanche
Sunday 3:00pm - racers
Message 17
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| Subject: | My "fix" for dragging brakes |
I forgot who did that but I've seen it before and it is what I plan to do.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My "fix" for dragging brakes
--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Your spring idea is good. However placing a compression spring over the cylinder
shaft would be lighter and maybe more effective solution.
Linn
On 7/19/2011 3:53 PM, billz wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>
> I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the forum, talked
with several folks and experienced the problem with a friend's RV-10.
>
> 1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the master cylinder
to fully extend when pressure is removed from the brake pedals. The last
1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for fluid to bypass internally allowing
the brake pads to retract. It doesn't take much to keep pressure on the
brake pads. My friend fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
>
> 2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is important.
They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes should be properly drilled
to assure free movement. The bolts should not be overly tightened, to
minimize drag.
>
> 3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the bottom of the
pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that can add resistance to the
pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing these with one long bolt. (I purchased
AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt
to provide a spacer inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part
# 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put over
the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on (to get enough
return force) were larger inside diameter than the aluminum tube so I found
some old garden hose to put over the tubing as a spacer.
>
> As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force and work nicely
to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master cylinders. So far,
it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since I'm not flying, a final report
will have to wait for the future. Does all this make sense from what others
have learned from experience??
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camp conditions report |
Hmm, that should be exciting...Cherokees mixing with Bonanzas with
same arrival time.
On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Rick Beebe <richard.beebe@yale.edu> wrote:
>
> On 07/19/2011 08:45 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi Ron,
>>
>> To get the best sites, you'd probably want to drop everything
>> and leave NOW. But, to avoid the mass arrivals, you probably
>> should shoot for Saturday at the very latest.
>
> Mass arrivals:
>
> Saturday 1:00pm - Bonanza & Cherokee
> Saturday 2:30pm - Cessna
> Saturday 4:00pm - Mooney
>
> Sunday 11:30am - Comanche
> Sunday 3:00pm - racers
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
I tried a variety of compression springs with collars, as previously shown on the
forum. I kept having problems with the spring only having a limited range
of compression which limited the travel of the piston. I could only get about
1 in compression before the spring was fully compressed. Matco says all you
need is 3/4 in travel, but I wanted to keep the option for greater travel, if
needed.
Maybe someone else will have better luck with that approach than I did.
Good Luck!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347095#347095
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
I replied to Ralph off-line, but just a reminder ......
Slight brake dragging is a natural function of disc brakes. The area
just outside the O-ring collects dirt which doesn't allow the puck to
retract more, and that O-ring gets stiff with time/heat.
The spring remedy only allows the cylinder shaft to extend fully
allowing the fluid pressure to relax. Nothing is available to 'suck'
the brake puck back.
Linn
On 7/19/2011 5:22 PM, billz wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>
> I tried a variety of compression springs with collars, as previously shown on
the forum. I kept having problems with the spring only having a limited range
of compression which limited the travel of the piston. I could only get about
1 in compression before the spring was fully compressed. Matco says all you
need is 3/4 in travel, but I wanted to keep the option for greater travel, if
needed.
>
> Maybe someone else will have better luck with that approach than I did.
>
> Good Luck!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347095#347095
>
>
Message 21
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Guys I stand corrected. The new EAA forum site is up and it is vBulletin based: www.eaaforums.org
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347103#347103
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
It was me. I'll see if I can find some old write ups and photos of the mod. It
was easy, cheap, and effective. If I were building another one, I'd do the
same thing again.
Phil
On Jul 19, 2011, at 4:05 PM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
wrote:
>
> I forgot who did that but I've seen it before and it is what I plan to do.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
> Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 3:23 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: My "fix" for dragging brakes
>
> --> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> Your spring idea is good. However placing a compression spring over the cylinder
shaft would be lighter and maybe more effective solution.
> Linn
>
> On 7/19/2011 3:53 PM, billz wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>>
>> I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the forum, talked
with several folks and experienced the problem with a friend's RV-10.
>>
>> 1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the master
cylinder to fully extend when pressure is removed from the brake pedals. The
last 1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for fluid to bypass internally allowing
the brake pads to retract. It doesn't take much to keep pressure on the
brake pads. My friend fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
>>
>> 2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is important.
They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes should be properly
drilled to assure free movement. The bolts should not be overly tightened, to
minimize drag.
>>
>> 3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the bottom of the
pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that can add resistance to
the pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing these with one long bolt. (I purchased
AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt
to provide a spacer inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster
(part # 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put
over the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on (to get enough
return force) were larger inside diameter than the aluminum tube so I found
some old garden hose to put over the tubing as a spacer.
>>
>> As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force and work
nicely to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master cylinders. So far,
it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since I'm not flying, a final report
will have to wait for the future. Does all this make sense from what others
have learned from experience??
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver Arrives... |
Dear Listers,
The NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver kit arrived today. Included in the box were the
following:
1ea ADS600-B Transceiver Unit
1ea DB37 Connector w/ Shell
2ea RG-142 BNC Antenna Coax Cables (terminated on one end)
1ea Wireless receiver option (802.11)
1ea End User License sheet
1ea Attention Warning sheet
Missing from the package, it seemed to me were:
1ea Installation Manual
1ea Instruction Manual
1ea Wiring Diagram
2ea BNC connectors for Terminating Antenna Cable
1ea UAT Antenna
1ea GPS Antenna
Attached are a couple of pictures of what I received.
Looking over the NavWorx web site, I'm not finding anywhere to download instruction
manuals or installation manuals. Am I suppose to buy the UAT and GPS antennas
separately? I didn't see these available separately on the NavWorx web
site when I ordered the package.
I called and left NavWorx a voicemail.
At this point, I'm kind at a loss...? :-/
Matt
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver Arrives... |
I think the UAT antenna and GPS antennas are not included.
I bought mine separately...along with the BNC connectors
for them, because you may find that you'll need TNC
for the GPS antenna...so those are left for you to get.
They do have a contact where you can get a cheaper UAT
antenna, if you ask them.
The wiring diagrams are int he install manual, and I
myself have been surprised that they aren't on the
website, but I attributed that to them updating them
often as things progressed. I've always just got
mine via email from Bill. If you need a copy I
have one but it may not be current....it should
still suffice.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 7/19/2011 9:22 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> The NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver kit arrived today. Included in the box were
the following:
>
> 1ea ADS600-B Transceiver Unit
> 1ea DB37 Connector w/ Shell
> 2ea RG-142 BNC Antenna Coax Cables (terminated on one end)
> 1ea Wireless receiver option (802.11)
> 1ea End User License sheet
> 1ea Attention Warning sheet
>
> Missing from the package, it seemed to me were:
>
> 1ea Installation Manual
> 1ea Instruction Manual
> 1ea Wiring Diagram
> 2ea BNC connectors for Terminating Antenna Cable
> 1ea UAT Antenna
> 1ea GPS Antenna
>
> Attached are a couple of pictures of what I received.
>
> Looking over the NavWorx web site, I'm not finding anywhere to download instruction
manuals or installation manuals. Am I suppose to buy the UAT and GPS antennas
separately? I didn't see these available separately on the NavWorx web
site when I ordered the package.
>
> I called and left NavWorx a voicemail.
>
> At this point, I'm kind at a loss...? :-/
>
> Matt
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
While I'm not going to say you shouldn't improve it if
you want to, I will make a couple of comments:
1) We need to make sure that builders understand NOT
to torque the bolts too tight that the pedals hinge on.
If you don't torque them too tight, you're unlikely
to have an issue with them even with the standard bolts.
Improving them isn't going to hurt, but I would say
that it isn't necessary for most people...maybe those
with some parts or things that aren't in normal
tolerances.
2) Regarding the springs, that's the same deal. I don't
think most people will need anything like that. Sure,
it may not hurt, but if you're going to do it, just do
it in a way that doesn't have any other possible failure
mode that could jam the brakes. As long as you
do that, modify them if you think you need to. I just
don't think most people will need to.
3) As was already noted, disc brakes just work with a
bit of drag on them because there is no "retract"
spring for the pistons. You push the brakes, they
go out and touch the discs, and when you release
the brakes they still just barely touch the discs.
Even a standard design for the pedals should not
cause any additional drag, as long as your pedals
retract and you keep your heels on the floor and
don't ride the brakes. So again, while improving
them to your satisfaction isn't a bad thing, It's really
not a necessary thing. You're never going to eliminate
the inherent disc brake drag.
With 750+ hours on mine, and using the standard
setup, I've never seen any reason to have anything
more. The one-piece bolt isn't a bad idea at all,
and if they included it all in the kit, I'd be
happy with it. But don't make all the other builders
think there is some problem with the design, because
those pedals will work just fine per-plans, provided
you don't overtorque or have some other misalignment
that causes the pedals to not move freely. All
builders should make sure that THIS isn't a problem
as they build...then they'll end up with a fine
working system.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 7/19/2011 2:53 PM, billz wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>
> I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the
> forum, talked with several folks and experienced the problem with a
> friend's RV-10.
>
> 1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the
> master cylinder to fully extend when pressure is removed from the
> brake pedals. The last 1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for
> fluid to bypass internally allowing the brake pads to retract. It
> doesn't take much to keep pressure on the brake pads. My friend
> fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
>
> 2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is
> important. They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes
> should be properly drilled to assure free movement. The bolts should
> not be overly tightened, to minimize drag.
>
> 3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the
> bottom of the pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that
> can add resistance to the pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing
> these with one long bolt. (I purchased AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I
> also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt to provide a spacer
> inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part #
> 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put
> over the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on
> (to get enough return force) were larger inside diameter than the
> aluminum tube so I found some old garden hose to put over the tubing
> as a spacer.
>
> As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force
> and work nicely to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master
> cylinders. So far, it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since
> I'm not flying, a final report will have to wait for the future.
> Does all this make sense from what others have learned from
> experience??
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
I didn't know there was a problem. But I only had 120 hours on mine before it went
to it's new owner. I think I'll keep the original on the next one as well.
IMHO it's feet that are dragging or riding on the pedals, not the system or design.
But I don't piss in buckets either.
Rick Sked
Fuselage number 2 kit 1154
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 19, 2011, at 8:33 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> While I'm not going to say you shouldn't improve it if
> you want to, I will make a couple of comments:
>
> 1) We need to make sure that builders understand NOT
> to torque the bolts too tight that the pedals hinge on.
> If you don't torque them too tight, you're unlikely
> to have an issue with them even with the standard bolts.
> Improving them isn't going to hurt, but I would say
> that it isn't necessary for most people...maybe those
> with some parts or things that aren't in normal
> tolerances.
>
> 2) Regarding the springs, that's the same deal. I don't
> think most people will need anything like that. Sure,
> it may not hurt, but if you're going to do it, just do
> it in a way that doesn't have any other possible failure
> mode that could jam the brakes. As long as you
> do that, modify them if you think you need to. I just
> don't think most people will need to.
>
> 3) As was already noted, disc brakes just work with a
> bit of drag on them because there is no "retract"
> spring for the pistons. You push the brakes, they
> go out and touch the discs, and when you release
> the brakes they still just barely touch the discs.
> Even a standard design for the pedals should not
> cause any additional drag, as long as your pedals
> retract and you keep your heels on the floor and
> don't ride the brakes. So again, while improving
> them to your satisfaction isn't a bad thing, It's really
> not a necessary thing. You're never going to eliminate
> the inherent disc brake drag.
>
> With 750+ hours on mine, and using the standard
> setup, I've never seen any reason to have anything
> more. The one-piece bolt isn't a bad idea at all,
> and if they included it all in the kit, I'd be
> happy with it. But don't make all the other builders
> think there is some problem with the design, because
> those pedals will work just fine per-plans, provided
> you don't overtorque or have some other misalignment
> that causes the pedals to not move freely. All
> builders should make sure that THIS isn't a problem
> as they build...then they'll end up with a fine
> working system.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
>
> On 7/19/2011 2:53 PM, billz wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "billz"<billz@roadrunner.com>
>>
>> I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the
>> forum, talked with several folks and experienced the problem with a
>> friend's RV-10.
>>
>> 1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the
>> master cylinder to fully extend when pressure is removed from the
>> brake pedals. The last 1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for
>> fluid to bypass internally allowing the brake pads to retract. It
>> doesn't take much to keep pressure on the brake pads. My friend
>> fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
>>
>> 2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is
>> important. They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes
>> should be properly drilled to assure free movement. The bolts should
>> not be overly tightened, to minimize drag.
>>
>> 3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the
>> bottom of the pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that
>> can add resistance to the pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing
>> these with one long bolt. (I purchased AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I
>> also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt to provide a spacer
>> inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part #
>> 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put
>> over the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on
>> (to get enough return force) were larger inside diameter than the
>> aluminum tube so I found some old garden hose to put over the tubing
>> as a spacer.
>>
>> As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force
>> and work nicely to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master
>> cylinders. So far, it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since
>> I'm not flying, a final report will have to wait for the future.
>> Does all this make sense from what others have learned from
>> experience??
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
What Tim said.
Plus, keep in mind that the master cylinders have internal springs
that push the piston back out. If they aren't sufficient there could
be another problem. The clothes pin springs and long bolts are a nice
touch but I see a couple of wear points that might need to eventually
be addressed. Fewer parts are usually better!
Make sure the assembly is free, even a little sloppy, and it should work fine.
Dave Saylor 895 hours
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 8:33 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> While I'm not going to say you shouldn't improve it if
> you want to, I will make a couple of comments:
>
> 1) We need to make sure that builders understand NOT
> to torque the bolts too tight that the pedals hinge on.
> If you don't torque them too tight, you're unlikely
> to have an issue with them even with the standard bolts.
> Improving them isn't going to hurt, but I would say
> that it isn't necessary for most people...maybe those
> with some parts or things that aren't in normal
> tolerances.
>
> 2) Regarding the springs, that's the same deal. I don't
> think most people will need anything like that. Sure,
> it may not hurt, but if you're going to do it, just do
> it in a way that doesn't have any other possible failure
> mode that could jam the brakes. As long as you
> do that, modify them if you think you need to. I just
> don't think most people will need to.
>
> 3) As was already noted, disc brakes just work with a
> bit of drag on them because there is no "retract"
> spring for the pistons. You push the brakes, they
> go out and touch the discs, and when you release
> the brakes they still just barely touch the discs.
> Even a standard design for the pedals should not
> cause any additional drag, as long as your pedals
> retract and you keep your heels on the floor and
> don't ride the brakes. So again, while improving
> them to your satisfaction isn't a bad thing, It's really
> not a necessary thing. You're never going to eliminate
> the inherent disc brake drag.
>
> With 750+ hours on mine, and using the standard
> setup, I've never seen any reason to have anything
> more. The one-piece bolt isn't a bad idea at all,
> and if they included it all in the kit, I'd be
> happy with it. But don't make all the other builders
> think there is some problem with the design, because
> those pedals will work just fine per-plans, provided
> you don't overtorque or have some other misalignment
> that causes the pedals to not move freely. All
> builders should make sure that THIS isn't a problem
> as they build...then they'll end up with a fine
> working system.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> On 7/19/2011 2:53 PM, billz wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the
>> forum, talked with several folks and experienced the problem with a
>> friend's RV-10.
>>
>> 1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the
>> master cylinder to fully extend when pressure is removed from the
>> brake pedals. The last 1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for
>> fluid to bypass internally allowing the brake pads to retract. It
>> doesn't take much to keep pressure on the brake pads. My friend
>> fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.
>>
>> 2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is
>> important. They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes
>> should be properly drilled to assure free movement. The bolts should
>> not be overly tightened, to minimize drag.
>>
>> 3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the
>> bottom of the pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that
>> can add resistance to the pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing
>> these with one long bolt. (I purchased AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I
>> also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt to provide a spacer
>> inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part #
>> 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put
>> over the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on
>> (to get enough return force) were larger inside diameter than the
>> aluminum tube so I found some old garden hose to put over the tubing
>> as a spacer.
>>
>> As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force
>> and work nicely to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master
>> cylinders. So far, it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since
>> I'm not flying, a final report will have to wait for the future.
>> Does all this make sense from what others have learned from
>> experience??
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=347079#347079
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1388_336.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1387_104.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1386_109.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
We'll have to "ditto" Tim's comments on this issue. We got almost 300 hours
on the first set of pads with a standard per the plans brake installation.
The earlier RV's all had similar issues. In my opinion most of these are
related to the somewhat severe angle that the pedals meet your feet, i.e. it
is very easy to apply brake pressure when you would think you are not.
The -10, IMHO, is the least problematic in this regard so far. (The RV-12
kit includes plastic blocks installed on the bottom of the pedals to reduce
this angle not unlike what others have done as a mod on the 10)
I believe a little practice in the technique of keeping heels on the floor
at all times unless brake application is desired will go a long way to
getting good brake pad life and minimal heating.
Tailwinds,
Dick Sipp
RV-4, RV-10, B-25D
all castering nose wheels and sensitive brakes :)
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: My "fix" for dragging brakes |
CORRECTION:
My bad, of course the RV-4 does not have a castering nose wheel.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick & Vicki Sipp
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 12:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My "fix" for dragging brakes
We'll have to "ditto" Tim's comments on this issue. We got almost 300 hours
on the first set of pads with a standard per the plans brake installation.
The earlier RV's all had similar issues. In my opinion most of these are
related to the somewhat severe angle that the pedals meet your feet, i.e. it
is very easy to apply brake pressure when you would think you are not.
The -10, IMHO, is the least problematic in this regard so far. (The RV-12
kit includes plastic blocks installed on the bottom of the pedals to reduce
this angle not unlike what others have done as a mod on the 10)
I believe a little practice in the technique of keeping heels on the floor
at all times unless brake application is desired will go a long way to
getting good brake pad life and minimal heating.
Tailwinds,
Dick Sipp
RV-4, RV-10, B-25D
all castering nose wheels and sensitive brakes :)
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