Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:54 AM - Re: Workbench size? (Bill Watson)
2. 04:11 AM - Re: Workbench size? (Les Kearney)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Workbench size? (Marcus Cooper)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Workbench size? (EdKranz)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Workbench size? (Rene)
6. 08:22 AM - Re: Workbench size? (dhmoose)
7. 10:59 AM - Re: Workbench size? (James McGrew)
8. 12:00 PM - Re: Workbench size? (rv10flyer)
9. 12:02 PM - Re: Workbench size? (johngoodman)
10. 01:04 PM - Post in Aeroelectric list Re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts (Bill Watson)
11. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: Workbench size? (Bill Watson)
12. 03:46 PM - Post in Aeroelectric list Re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts (Bob Turner)
13. 06:38 PM - Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop (bob-tcw)
14. 08:57 PM - Re: Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop (rv10flyer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
Agreed on the standard size & MDF top. In addition, I found that
covering the top with kraft paper or the like was good. It absorbs a
lot of abuse, hides the drill holes and has a nice mind clearing effect
when changed. A roll of it and a stapler is all that's needed.
Bill "today switching the hangar from Maule high wing to RV10 low wing
configuration" Watson
On 9/4/2011 12:31 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Les Kearney<kearney@shaw.ca>
>
> Ed
>
> I built two of these "EAA Regulation" tables. See http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm
>
> The only mod I made was to use 1/2" MDF for the top. It is flat and square which
is very useful. As it is very smooth there are no splinters etc. Mine tops
have lots of holes where I have drilled through. When it gets to be too much
I just replace the top.
>
> For casters, make sue you get fairly large wheels as the small ones didn't seem
to last - at least more me. Rough concrete on my garage floor was pretty hard
on them. Also make sure that the wheels on one side lock.
>
> I found the recommended size to be perfect.
>
> Also get a good brush so you can sweep the tops clean when working. This also
helps distribute small parts onto the floor. VBG.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2011-09-03, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz<ed.kranz@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "EdKranz"<ed.kranz@gmail.com>
>>
>> I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm
wondering what everyone used for workbenches.
>>
>> I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need
to be able to park inside at all time.
>>
>> I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first
moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder,
and soon jig saw and drill press.
>>
>> I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against
a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and
the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them.
>>
>> Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough?
>>
>> Any other suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
Hi Again
The covering is a good idea. I used a roll of rubber honeycomb mat of the type
used to line toolbox drawers. The honeycomb catches small metal shavings and helps
prevent scratches on skins. Just shake to remove shavings.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-09-04, at 6:51 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Agreed on the standard size & MDF top. In addition, I found that covering the
top with kraft paper or the like was good. It absorbs a lot of abuse, hides
the drill holes and has a nice mind clearing effect when changed. A roll of
it and a stapler is all that's needed.
>
> Bill "today switching the hangar from Maule high wing to RV10 low wing configuration"
Watson
>
>
> On 9/4/2011 12:31 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Les Kearney<kearney@shaw.ca>
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> I built two of these "EAA Regulation" tables. See http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm
>>
>> The only mod I made was to use 1/2" MDF for the top. It is flat and square which
is very useful. As it is very smooth there are no splinters etc. Mine tops
have lots of holes where I have drilled through. When it gets to be too much
I just replace the top.
>>
>> For casters, make sue you get fairly large wheels as the small ones didn't seem
to last - at least more me. Rough concrete on my garage floor was pretty hard
on them. Also make sure that the wheels on one side lock.
>>
>> I found the recommended size to be perfect.
>>
>> Also get a good brush so you can sweep the tops clean when working. This also
helps distribute small parts onto the floor. VBG.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 2011-09-03, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz<ed.kranz@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "EdKranz"<ed.kranz@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm
wondering what everyone used for workbenches.
>>>
>>> I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need
to be able to park inside at all time.
>>>
>>> I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first
moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise,
grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press.
>>>
>>> I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against
a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and
the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make
them.
>>>
>>> Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough?
>>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
An important question is will be you be going slow or quick build? For the quick
build the benches you have are fine, just need one big enough to handle the
horizontal stab.
Marcus
On Sep 3, 2011, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz wrote:
I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering
what everyone used for workbenches.
I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need to
be able to park inside at all time.
I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first moved
in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder,
and soon jig saw and drill press.
I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against
a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and the
other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them.
Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough?
Any other suggestions?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
I am going to be taking the slow-build route.
After reading thru a number of other build logs, I think I'd like to build both
wings simultaneously. At what point can you start working on them in the wing
cradles? I was planning on building a cradle that could be split so I'll have
360 degree access.
Also, will I have enough room on a pair of standard EAA tables to build the slow
build fuse up to the point where it makes sense to move it to a purpose build
stand?
coop85(at)verizon.net wrote:
> An important question is will be you be going slow or quick build? For the quick
build the benches you have are fine, just need one big enough to handle the
horizontal stab.
>
> Marcus
>
>
> On Sep 3, 2011, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz wrote:
>
>
>
> I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering
what everyone used for workbenches.
>
> I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need
to be able to park inside at all time.
>
> I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first
moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder,
and soon jig saw and drill press.
>
> I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against
a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and
the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them.
>
> Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough?
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351377#351377
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
Just to add my 2 cents. I had one 4X8 work bench that I built (a friend
built it for me) a couple of decades before......no casters. I then got two
8 foot lifetime folding tables from Costco. Put them end to end for the
wings and moved them around easily. I could fold them up and put them aside
when I did not need them. I did all my dimpling, clamping, etc on the
large work bench. The flaps are 8 feet, so you will need a large flat
surface to do those....
I built in a three car garage and my wife kept her side the entire time.
She would let me kick her car out for painting and when I wanted (not
needed) extra room.
Also, I had some old carpet I put on top of the work bench and table......I
glued it to my dimpling table....so that I could slide the parts around a
little easier. Just need to vacuum out the carpet to get the filings and
stuff out or you could scratch the skins.
Also, also....even with the 4X8 workbench and having access to both sides I
needed a third hand sometimes, so I went to the aviation department at Sears
and got one of those roller stands (don't know what they are called) that
carpenters use to roll longer pieces of wood on and off table saws, etc.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
Another tip: make the MDF top overlap ALL sides of the workbenches frame. It's
immensely helpful to be able to clamp items to the lip on all four sides versus
just 3 sides. Hope depot also sells carpet runners that are the perfect size
for the bench tops.
David
--------
David Halmos
RV-10 builder #41059
Empennage complete!
QB fuselage under construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351381#351381
Message 7
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Similar to your pIan, I built my RV-10 on a wall mounted work bench and a
4'x5' work table that sat in the middle. In my new garage I built two 2'x5'
workbenches that hook together to make a 4'x5'. When I don't need them, they
come apart and roll underneath the wall mounted bench.
Here is my biggest suggestion for any workbench you build: is to hang the
particle board over the edges ~6". I didn't do this at first and quickly
learned that I needed that overhang to be able to clamp things. I was
surprised that the EAA design I saw in the magazine didn't have this
feature. Also don't be afraid to drill into your work bench top. It is easy
and cheap to replace.
-Jim
N312JE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[ailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of EdKranz
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 8:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Workbench size?
I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm
wondering what everyone used for workbenches.
I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need
to be able to park inside at all time.
I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first
moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise,
grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press.
I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed
against a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5'
long and the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide
to make them.
Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough?
Any other suggestions?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
2 ea 30" X 84" X 36"H with 2" overlap, fixed 4" castors on one end and moveable
on other with brakes.
If I had it to do over I would make them 36" X 96" with 4" overlap. One table now
at home and one at airport.
Lots of outlets and lights; 2 separate regulators/25' air hoses; 16 gal vac, a/c
& heat; dehumidifier; 36" X 36" bench tool work table(like you have) with NO
castors. I did not want a bandsaw blade accidentally moving and it was easy to
slide two times during entire build. Built up to fuse/tail mating in 12 X 24'
then went to 24' X 24' with plenty of room. 9' W X 8'H insulated garage doors.
Baby monitor to monitor while its sleeping. Fire/smoke alarms, storage cabinet
vented to outside for flammables. Radio, dvd, 18" flat screen, phone, white
board and sm refrigerator. Furnace blower in a box with castors, 8' cord and
5" thick high eff air filter- for running while sanding, scotch brighting, priming
along with respirator. All the tools you can afford. I think thats about
it.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983SB Baffles then fuel/oil/exhaust.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351391#351391
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
I built two of the EAA tables and they came in handy. However, don't forget a table
- such as the standard "Costco" folding banquet table. It is better for sitting
height and folds out of the way when not needed.
John
--------
#40572 First flight was on 25 June, 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351392#351392
Message 10
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| Subject: | Post in Aeroelectric list re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts |
I just posted something on the Aeroelectric list with subject:
"Initial experience with dual Odyssey PC680s powering RV-10 with Z-14"
Please take a look.
Bill "just flew the '10 home" Watson
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Workbench size? |
Use filter bags in any and all shop vacs - especially when you start on
the fiberglass. They are available for all models.
If you are 50+, consider an eyeglass prescription specifically for shop
work. Optimized for working at arm's length - not as close as reading
glasses, good enough distance vision to see across the garage without
discomfort. Big lenses for safety but something you're willing to wear
out. (No, I'm not an optometrist but they universally express approval)
Have a complete set of safety equipment - goggles, ear protection,
respirator masks, first aid kit - and use them all the time.
Things I would have handled differently; rip all the blue protective
plastic off everything at first opportunity, prime less, worry less
about scratching exterior surfaces, making sure all my work tables have
at least a 1.5" lip on all 4 sides for clamping
Bill "half way thru Phase 1" Watson
On 9/4/2011 2:57 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"<wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
>
> 2 ea 30" X 84" X 36"H with 2" overlap, fixed 4" castors on one end and moveable
on other with brakes.
>
> If I had it to do over I would make them 36" X 96" with 4" overlap. One table
now at home and one at airport.
>
> Lots of outlets and lights; 2 separate regulators/25' air hoses; 16 gal vac,
a/c& heat; dehumidifier; 36" X 36" bench tool work table(like you have) with
NO castors. I did not want a bandsaw blade accidentally moving and it was easy
to slide two times during entire build. Built up to fuse/tail mating in 12 X
24' then went to 24' X 24' with plenty of room. 9' W X 8'H insulated garage doors.
Baby monitor to monitor while its sleeping. Fire/smoke alarms, storage cabinet
vented to outside for flammables. Radio, dvd, 18" flat screen, phone, white
board and sm refrigerator. Furnace blower in a box with castors, 8' cord and
5" thick high eff air filter- for running while sanding, scotch brighting,
priming along with respirator. All the tools you can afford. I think thats about
it.
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Post in Aeroelectric list re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts |
What starter do you have? My Vans'-ordered IO-540 came with the lighter weight
starter. I had Lycoming send me the heavy duty one, which they did at no charge.
With the larger PC 925 (standard location, #2 AWG cable, grounded to airframe)
and the heavy duty starter, the engine turns over very well.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351417#351417
Message 13
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| Subject: | Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop |
Fellow builders,
Two items to share: Working on the spinner fit this weekend
and was wondering how to do the cut-outs for the prop blades so as to
account for the fine and course pitch setting. Didn=99t see
anything useful in the plans, just a note to ensure to leave room when
making the cut-out. The blades move via oil pressure from the
governor, so why not a little air pressure, seems like it should
work. Well sure enough, only about 25 psi does the trick and the
blades go to full course pitch. So I machined up a nice adapter
plate to get the job done. See attached photos. I=99m going
to make this adapter plate available to the RV-10 list folks on the
loaner program. I=99ll be done with it after this weekend and
will ship it to whomever needs it next, I just ask that you pay for
shipping.
On a second topic, Monday was a big day here, after almost 8 years
of super slow building I=99m running out of parts! N541RV has
moved to the paint shop! Lancaster Aero Refinshers in Smoketown PA
now has my plane . The paint scheme is agreed to and the test
panel of paint have been shot.
Bob Newman
40176 (Almost an airplane)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop |
That is handy when you are alone. The wife and I used two
wood clamps with a rag protecting the paint. Worked like a charm.
There is around 325 psi gov oil pres in normal operation so those aerodynamic loads
are powerful. Nice to know information and nice tool. Thanks.
Just about ready to trim the baffling. That is one crazy setup on those ramps!
Have fun on those filler plates. Oh, I did not check runout on the spinner. Does
anyone since it is not in the plans? My wife can let me know when I do the first
start.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983SB Baffles then fuel/oil/exhaust.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351442#351442
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