---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/04/11: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:54 AM - Re: Workbench size? (Bill Watson) 2. 04:11 AM - Re: Workbench size? (Les Kearney) 3. 05:12 AM - Re: Workbench size? (Marcus Cooper) 4. 06:48 AM - Re: Workbench size? (EdKranz) 5. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Workbench size? (Rene) 6. 08:22 AM - Re: Workbench size? (dhmoose) 7. 10:59 AM - Re: Workbench size? (James McGrew) 8. 12:00 PM - Re: Workbench size? (rv10flyer) 9. 12:02 PM - Re: Workbench size? (johngoodman) 10. 01:04 PM - Post in Aeroelectric list Re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts (Bill Watson) 11. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: Workbench size? (Bill Watson) 12. 03:46 PM - Post in Aeroelectric list Re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts (Bob Turner) 13. 06:38 PM - Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop (bob-tcw) 14. 08:57 PM - Re: Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop (rv10flyer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:54:58 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Workbench size? Agreed on the standard size & MDF top. In addition, I found that covering the top with kraft paper or the like was good. It absorbs a lot of abuse, hides the drill holes and has a nice mind clearing effect when changed. A roll of it and a stapler is all that's needed. Bill "today switching the hangar from Maule high wing to RV10 low wing configuration" Watson On 9/4/2011 12:31 AM, Les Kearney wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Les Kearney > > Ed > > I built two of these "EAA Regulation" tables. See http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm > > The only mod I made was to use 1/2" MDF for the top. It is flat and square which is very useful. As it is very smooth there are no splinters etc. Mine tops have lots of holes where I have drilled through. When it gets to be too much I just replace the top. > > For casters, make sue you get fairly large wheels as the small ones didn't seem to last - at least more me. Rough concrete on my garage floor was pretty hard on them. Also make sure that the wheels on one side lock. > > I found the recommended size to be perfect. > > Also get a good brush so you can sweep the tops clean when working. This also helps distribute small parts onto the floor. VBG. > > Cheers > > Les > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 2011-09-03, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "EdKranz" >> >> I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering what everyone used for workbenches. >> >> I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need to be able to park inside at all time. >> >> I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press. >> >> I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them. >> >> Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough? >> >> Any other suggestions? >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:11:02 AM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: Re: RV10-List: Workbench size? Hi Again The covering is a good idea. I used a roll of rubber honeycomb mat of the type used to line toolbox drawers. The honeycomb catches small metal shavings and helps prevent scratches on skins. Just shake to remove shavings. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 2011-09-04, at 6:51 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Agreed on the standard size & MDF top. In addition, I found that covering the top with kraft paper or the like was good. It absorbs a lot of abuse, hides the drill holes and has a nice mind clearing effect when changed. A roll of it and a stapler is all that's needed. > > Bill "today switching the hangar from Maule high wing to RV10 low wing configuration" Watson > > > On 9/4/2011 12:31 AM, Les Kearney wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Les Kearney >> >> Ed >> >> I built two of these "EAA Regulation" tables. See http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm >> >> The only mod I made was to use 1/2" MDF for the top. It is flat and square which is very useful. As it is very smooth there are no splinters etc. Mine tops have lots of holes where I have drilled through. When it gets to be too much I just replace the top. >> >> For casters, make sue you get fairly large wheels as the small ones didn't seem to last - at least more me. Rough concrete on my garage floor was pretty hard on them. Also make sure that the wheels on one side lock. >> >> I found the recommended size to be perfect. >> >> Also get a good brush so you can sweep the tops clean when working. This also helps distribute small parts onto the floor. VBG. >> >> Cheers >> >> Les >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 2011-09-03, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "EdKranz" >>> >>> I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering what everyone used for workbenches. >>> >>> I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need to be able to park inside at all time. >>> >>> I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press. >>> >>> I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them. >>> >>> Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough? >>> >>> Any other suggestions? >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:12:30 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Workbench size? From: Marcus Cooper An important question is will be you be going slow or quick build? For the quick build the benches you have are fine, just need one big enough to handle the horizontal stab. Marcus On Sep 3, 2011, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz wrote: I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering what everyone used for workbenches. I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need to be able to park inside at all time. I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press. I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them. Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough? Any other suggestions? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:07 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Workbench size? From: "EdKranz" I am going to be taking the slow-build route. After reading thru a number of other build logs, I think I'd like to build both wings simultaneously. At what point can you start working on them in the wing cradles? I was planning on building a cradle that could be split so I'll have 360 degree access. Also, will I have enough room on a pair of standard EAA tables to build the slow build fuse up to the point where it makes sense to move it to a purpose build stand? coop85(at)verizon.net wrote: > An important question is will be you be going slow or quick build? For the quick build the benches you have are fine, just need one big enough to handle the horizontal stab. > > Marcus > > > On Sep 3, 2011, at 11:08 PM, EdKranz wrote: > > > > I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering what everyone used for workbenches. > > I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need to be able to park inside at all time. > > I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press. > > I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them. > > Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough? > > Any other suggestions? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351377#351377 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:31 AM PST US From: "Rene" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Workbench size? Just to add my 2 cents. I had one 4X8 work bench that I built (a friend built it for me) a couple of decades before......no casters. I then got two 8 foot lifetime folding tables from Costco. Put them end to end for the wings and moved them around easily. I could fold them up and put them aside when I did not need them. I did all my dimpling, clamping, etc on the large work bench. The flaps are 8 feet, so you will need a large flat surface to do those.... I built in a three car garage and my wife kept her side the entire time. She would let me kick her car out for painting and when I wanted (not needed) extra room. Also, I had some old carpet I put on top of the work bench and table......I glued it to my dimpling table....so that I could slide the parts around a little easier. Just need to vacuum out the carpet to get the filings and stuff out or you could scratch the skins. Also, also....even with the 4X8 workbench and having access to both sides I needed a third hand sometimes, so I went to the aviation department at Sears and got one of those roller stands (don't know what they are called) that carpenters use to roll longer pieces of wood on and off table saws, etc. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:22:45 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Workbench size? From: "dhmoose" Another tip: make the MDF top overlap ALL sides of the workbenches frame. It's immensely helpful to be able to clamp items to the lip on all four sides versus just 3 sides. Hope depot also sells carpet runners that are the perfect size for the bench tops. David -------- David Halmos RV-10 builder #41059 Empennage complete! QB fuselage under construction Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351381#351381 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:59:02 AM PST US From: "James McGrew" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Workbench size? Similar to your pIan, I built my RV-10 on a wall mounted work bench and a 4'x5' work table that sat in the middle. In my new garage I built two 2'x5' workbenches that hook together to make a 4'x5'. When I don't need them, they come apart and roll underneath the wall mounted bench. Here is my biggest suggestion for any workbench you build: is to hang the particle board over the edges ~6". I didn't do this at first and quickly learned that I needed that overhang to be able to clamp things. I was surprised that the EAA design I saw in the magazine didn't have this feature. Also don't be afraid to drill into your work bench top. It is easy and cheap to replace. -Jim N312JE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [ailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of EdKranz Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 8:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Workbench size? I'm in the "preparing the garage" phase before I order my tail kit, and I'm wondering what everyone used for workbenches. I'm going to be building in a 32'x32' 3 stall garage, but the wife will need to be able to park inside at all time. I have a 32"x120" bench attached to the back wall that I built when we first moved in, and I just recently built a 30" by 30" rolling table for my vise, grinder, and soon jig saw and drill press. I'm leaning towards two EAA style benches on casters that can be pushed against a side wall when not being used. I'm thinking one bench will be 5' long and the other 6', given the space to fit them. I can't decide how wide to make them. Is 24" too narrow to build a 10 on? Would 30" wide be wide enough? Any other suggestions? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351357#351357 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:00:15 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Workbench size? From: "rv10flyer" 2 ea 30" X 84" X 36"H with 2" overlap, fixed 4" castors on one end and moveable on other with brakes. If I had it to do over I would make them 36" X 96" with 4" overlap. One table now at home and one at airport. Lots of outlets and lights; 2 separate regulators/25' air hoses; 16 gal vac, a/c & heat; dehumidifier; 36" X 36" bench tool work table(like you have) with NO castors. I did not want a bandsaw blade accidentally moving and it was easy to slide two times during entire build. Built up to fuse/tail mating in 12 X 24' then went to 24' X 24' with plenty of room. 9' W X 8'H insulated garage doors. Baby monitor to monitor while its sleeping. Fire/smoke alarms, storage cabinet vented to outside for flammables. Radio, dvd, 18" flat screen, phone, white board and sm refrigerator. Furnace blower in a box with castors, 8' cord and 5" thick high eff air filter- for running while sanding, scotch brighting, priming along with respirator. All the tools you can afford. I think thats about it. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Baffles then fuel/oil/exhaust. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351391#351391 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:02:43 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Workbench size? From: "johngoodman" I built two of the EAA tables and they came in handy. However, don't forget a table - such as the standard "Costco" folding banquet table. It is better for sitting height and folds out of the way when not needed. John -------- #40572 First flight was on 25 June, 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351392#351392 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:04:39 PM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: RV10-List: Post in Aeroelectric list re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts I just posted something on the Aeroelectric list with subject: "Initial experience with dual Odyssey PC680s powering RV-10 with Z-14" Please take a look. Bill "just flew the '10 home" Watson ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:21:18 PM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Workbench size? Use filter bags in any and all shop vacs - especially when you start on the fiberglass. They are available for all models. If you are 50+, consider an eyeglass prescription specifically for shop work. Optimized for working at arm's length - not as close as reading glasses, good enough distance vision to see across the garage without discomfort. Big lenses for safety but something you're willing to wear out. (No, I'm not an optometrist but they universally express approval) Have a complete set of safety equipment - goggles, ear protection, respirator masks, first aid kit - and use them all the time. Things I would have handled differently; rip all the blue protective plastic off everything at first opportunity, prime less, worry less about scratching exterior surfaces, making sure all my work tables have at least a 1.5" lip on all 4 sides for clamping Bill "half way thru Phase 1" Watson On 9/4/2011 2:57 PM, rv10flyer wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer" > > 2 ea 30" X 84" X 36"H with 2" overlap, fixed 4" castors on one end and moveable on other with brakes. > > If I had it to do over I would make them 36" X 96" with 4" overlap. One table now at home and one at airport. > > Lots of outlets and lights; 2 separate regulators/25' air hoses; 16 gal vac, a/c& heat; dehumidifier; 36" X 36" bench tool work table(like you have) with NO castors. I did not want a bandsaw blade accidentally moving and it was easy to slide two times during entire build. Built up to fuse/tail mating in 12 X 24' then went to 24' X 24' with plenty of room. 9' W X 8'H insulated garage doors. Baby monitor to monitor while its sleeping. Fire/smoke alarms, storage cabinet vented to outside for flammables. Radio, dvd, 18" flat screen, phone, white board and sm refrigerator. Furnace blower in a box with castors, 8' cord and 5" thick high eff air filter- for running while sanding, scotch brighting, priming along with respirator. All the tools you can afford. I think thats about it. > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:46:21 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Post in Aeroelectric list re: Odyssey 680 and engine starts From: "Bob Turner" What starter do you have? My Vans'-ordered IO-540 came with the lighter weight starter. I had Lycoming send me the heavy duty one, which they did at no charge. With the larger PC 925 (standard location, #2 AWG cable, grounded to airframe) and the heavy duty starter, the engine turns over very well. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351417#351417 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:38:26 PM PST US From: "bob-tcw" Subject: RV10-List: Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop Fellow builders, Two items to share: Working on the spinner fit this weekend and was wondering how to do the cut-outs for the prop blades so as to account for the fine and course pitch setting. Didn=99t see anything useful in the plans, just a note to ensure to leave room when making the cut-out. The blades move via oil pressure from the governor, so why not a little air pressure, seems like it should work. Well sure enough, only about 25 psi does the trick and the blades go to full course pitch. So I machined up a nice adapter plate to get the job done. See attached photos. I=99m going to make this adapter plate available to the RV-10 list folks on the loaner program. I=99ll be done with it after this weekend and will ship it to whomever needs it next, I just ask that you pay for shipping. On a second topic, Monday was a big day here, after almost 8 years of super slow building I=99m running out of parts! N541RV has moved to the paint shop! Lancaster Aero Refinshers in Smoketown PA now has my plane . The paint scheme is agreed to and the test panel of paint have been shot. Bob Newman 40176 (Almost an airplane) ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:35 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Prop and Spinner fit & move to paint shop From: "rv10flyer" That is handy when you are alone. The wife and I used two wood clamps with a rag protecting the paint. Worked like a charm. There is around 325 psi gov oil pres in normal operation so those aerodynamic loads are powerful. Nice to know information and nice tool. Thanks. Just about ready to trim the baffling. That is one crazy setup on those ramps! Have fun on those filler plates. Oh, I did not check runout on the spinner. Does anyone since it is not in the plans? My wife can let me know when I do the first start. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Baffles then fuel/oil/exhaust. 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