Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:44 AM - Re: Service report (Rob Kermanj)
2. 09:21 AM - Re: Service report (Robin Marks)
3. 10:12 AM - Re: Service report (Pascal)
4. 10:24 AM - Re: Service report (Kelly McMullen)
5. 10:41 AM - Re: Service report (Linn Walters)
6. 11:09 AM - Re: Service report (Pascal)
7. 12:23 PM - Re: Service report (Rob Kermanj)
8. 01:33 PM - Re: Service report (Tim Olson)
9. 03:03 PM - Re: Plane Power and Lycoming Pulley Alignment Issue (rleffler)
10. 03:20 PM - Re: Service report (dmaib@me.com)
11. 04:31 PM - Re: Service report (Kelly McMullen)
12. 04:33 PM - Re: Re: Service report (Kelly McMullen)
13. 04:52 PM - Re: Re: Plane Power and Lycoming Pulley Alignment Issue (Gary Specketer)
14. 06:51 PM - Re: 2011 Copperstate RV10 Nest (woxofswa)
15. 07:36 PM - Torque tube assembly doesn't fit (Tom Biggs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to Aeroshell 100
for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a difference.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>
> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste with
>> slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL avgas. It is
>> particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines. Because of the
>> relative weight it settles out.
>>
>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Ben Haas
>>> N801BH
>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>
>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>
>>>
>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane. I had
>>> to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge caked inside
>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>
>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>
>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the sludge.
>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume metal)
>>> and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry and came off
>>> powdery like.
>>>
>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the good
>>> time to clean the crank.
>>>
>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>
>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp; &nb======
>>>
>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of engine
builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose Aeroshell over Phillips
100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is a way to really
keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change every 25 hours but
have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to strike a balance between
25 and 50 hour oil chances.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to Aeroshell 100
for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a difference.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>
> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste
>> with slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL
>> avgas. It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines.
>> Because of the relative weight it settles out.
>>
>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Ben Haas
>>> N801BH
>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>
>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>
>>>
>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane.
>>> I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge caked
inside
>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>
>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>
>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the sludge.
>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume
>>> metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry
>>> and came off powdery like.
>>>
>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the
>>> good time to clean the crank.
>>>
>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>
>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp; &nb======
>>>
>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use
XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different
opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for
the oils that don't have corrosion protection.
Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear
about it, here is the webinar on the topic.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Marks
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service report
With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of
engine builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose Aeroshell
over Phillips 100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is a
way to really keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change
every 25 hours but have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to
strike a balance between 25 and 50 hour oil chances.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to
Aeroshell 100 for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a
difference.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>
> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste
>> with slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL
>> avgas. It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines.
>> Because of the relative weight it settles out.
>>
>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Ben Haas
>>> N801BH
>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>
>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>
>>>
>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane.
>>> I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge
>>> caked inside
>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>
>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>
>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the
>>> sludge.
>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume
>>> metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry
>>> and came off powdery like.
>>>
>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the
>>> good time to clean the crank.
>>>
>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>
>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp;
>>> &nb======
>>>
>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
RAM engines does a lot of the big Continentals, that have more wear
issues on the cylinder choke, and they require use of Phillips X-C
during warranty period. Aviation Consumer suggests Phillips X-C with a
dose of CamGuard for Lycomings, because the cam doesn't get as much
oil being above the crank, where in Continentals it is below the
crank. I've been using the Exxon Elite, but will probably shift to
Phillips shortly.
On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use
> XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different
> opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for
> the oils that don't have corrosion protection.
> Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear
> about it, here is the webinar on the topic.
> http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Robin Marks
> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:17 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service report
>
>
> With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of
> engine builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose Aeroshell
> over Phillips 100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is a
> way to really keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change
> every 25 hours but have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to
> strike a balance between 25 and 50 hour oil chances.
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:40 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
>
>
> I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
>
> Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to
> Aeroshell 100 for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a
> difference.
>
> Rob Kermanj
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
>> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
>> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
>> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
>> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
>> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
>> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
>> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
>> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
>> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste
>>> with slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL
>>> avgas. It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines.
>>> Because of the relative weight it settles out.
>>>
>>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>>
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ben Haas
>>>> N801BH
>>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>>
>>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>>> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane.
>>>> I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge
>>>> caked inside
>>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>>
>>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>>
>>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the
>>>> sludge.
>>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume
>>>> metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry
>>>> and came off powdery like.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the
>>>> good time to clean the crank.
>>>>
>>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>>
>>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp; &nb======
>>>>
>>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>>
>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
I use Aeroshell W100. Have all my 38 years of aircraft ownership. No
matter what oil you choose, the best thing you can do for your engine
longevity is to use it often, and try to get an hour or longer for a
'short flight'.
IMHO, if all you have is a screen, change the oil and clean the screen
every 25 hours and if a filter every 50.
As for the sludge in the crank bore, I find that odd. Almost all of my
flight hours are behind fixed pitch props, so my question is ..... maybe
running the prop through it's pitch range a couple of times prior to
shutdown would flush the bore with hot oil. I have a lot to learn about
constant speed operation!!!
Linn
On 10/17/2011 1:22 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> RAM engines does a lot of the big Continentals, that have more wear
> issues on the cylinder choke, and they require use of Phillips X-C
> during warranty period. Aviation Consumer suggests Phillips X-C with a
> dose of CamGuard for Lycomings, because the cam doesn't get as much
> oil being above the crank, where in Continentals it is below the
> crank. I've been using the Exxon Elite, but will probably shift to
> Phillips shortly.
>
> On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Pascal<rv10flyer@verizon.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal"<rv10flyer@verizon.net>
>>
>> Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use
>> XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different
>> opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for
>> the oils that don't have corrosion protection.
>> Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear
>> about it, here is the webinar on the topic.
>> http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Robin Marks
>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:17 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service report
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks<robin@painttheweb.com>
>>
>> With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of
>> engine builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose Aeroshell
>> over Phillips 100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is a
>> way to really keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change
>> every 25 hours but have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to
>> strike a balance between 25 and 50 hour oil chances.
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:40 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>
>> I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
>>
>> Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to
>> Aeroshell 100 for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a
>> difference.
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
>>> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
>>> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
>>> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
>>> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
>>> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
>>> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
>>> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
>>> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
>>> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox<rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste
>>>> with slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL
>>>> avgas. It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines.
>>>> Because of the relative weight it settles out.
>>>>
>>>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com"<n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>>>
>>>>> do not archive
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ben Haas
>>>>> N801BH
>>>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>>>
>>>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>>>> From: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane.
>>>>> I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge
>>>>> caked inside
>>>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>>>
>>>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the
>>>>> sludge.
>>>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume
>>>>> metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry
>>>>> and came off powdery like.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the
>>>>> good time to clean the crank.
>>>>>
>>>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>>>
>>>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp;&nb======
>>>>>
>>>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>>>
>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
W100 is a single grade which is fine for warmer temps
W80 is a single grade which is fine for cooler temps
XC-20-50 is multi-grade for cooler temps
Savvy in EAA suggested W100 PLUS for the summer and for warmer climates year
round
XC-20-50 for colder areas in the Fall-Spring times. Phillips is a Mineral so
perfect for run-in as well
-----Original Message-----
From: Linn Walters
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
I use Aeroshell W100. Have all my 38 years of aircraft ownership. No
matter what oil you choose, the best thing you can do for your engine
longevity is to use it often, and try to get an hour or longer for a
'short flight'.
IMHO, if all you have is a screen, change the oil and clean the screen
every 25 hours and if a filter every 50.
As for the sludge in the crank bore, I find that odd. Almost all of my
flight hours are behind fixed pitch props, so my question is ..... maybe
running the prop through it's pitch range a couple of times prior to
shutdown would flush the bore with hot oil. I have a lot to learn about
constant speed operation!!!
Linn
On 10/17/2011 1:22 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> RAM engines does a lot of the big Continentals, that have more wear
> issues on the cylinder choke, and they require use of Phillips X-C
> during warranty period. Aviation Consumer suggests Phillips X-C with a
> dose of CamGuard for Lycomings, because the cam doesn't get as much
> oil being above the crank, where in Continentals it is below the
> crank. I've been using the Exxon Elite, but will probably shift to
> Phillips shortly.
>
> On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Pascal<rv10flyer@verizon.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal"<rv10flyer@verizon.net>
>>
>> Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use
>> XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of
>> different
>> opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives
>> for
>> the oils that don't have corrosion protection.
>> Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear
>> about it, here is the webinar on the topic.
>> http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Robin Marks
>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:17 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service report
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks<robin@painttheweb.com>
>>
>> With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of
>> engine builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose
>> Aeroshell
>> over Phillips 100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is
>> a
>> way to really keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change
>> every 25 hours but have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to
>> strike a balance between 25 and 50 hour oil chances.
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:40 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>
>> I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
>>
>> Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to
>> Aeroshell 100 for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a
>> difference.
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
>>> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
>>> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
>>> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
>>> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
>>> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
>>> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
>>> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
>>> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
>>> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox<rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste
>>>> with slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL
>>>> avgas. It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines.
>>>> Because of the relative weight it settles out.
>>>>
>>>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com"<n801bh@netzero.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>>>
>>>>> do not archive
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ben Haas
>>>>> N801BH
>>>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>>>
>>>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>>>> From: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane.
>>>>> I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge
>>>>> caked inside
>>>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>>>
>>>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the
>>>>> sludge.
>>>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume
>>>>> metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry
>>>>> and came off powdery like.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the
>>>>> good time to clean the crank.
>>>>>
>>>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>>>
>>>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp;&nb======
>>>>>
>>>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>>>
>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that Tim has had
the same experience.
I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different results. Considering
this a research opportunity.
I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion when using
fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank and found no sludge
after a few hundred hours.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 17, 2011, at 2:06 PM, "Pascal" <rv10flyer@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> W100 is a single grade which is fine for warmer temps
> W80 is a single grade which is fine for cooler temps
> XC-20-50 is multi-grade for cooler temps
>
> Savvy in EAA suggested W100 PLUS for the summer and for warmer climates year
round
> XC-20-50 for colder areas in the Fall-Spring times. Phillips is a Mineral so
perfect for run-in as well
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters
> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 10:37 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
>
>
> I use Aeroshell W100. Have all my 38 years of aircraft ownership. No
> matter what oil you choose, the best thing you can do for your engine
> longevity is to use it often, and try to get an hour or longer for a
> 'short flight'.
> IMHO, if all you have is a screen, change the oil and clean the screen
> every 25 hours and if a filter every 50.
>
> As for the sludge in the crank bore, I find that odd. Almost all of my
> flight hours are behind fixed pitch props, so my question is ..... maybe
> running the prop through it's pitch range a couple of times prior to
> shutdown would flush the bore with hot oil. I have a lot to learn about
> constant speed operation!!!
> Linn
>
>
>
> On 10/17/2011 1:22 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>>
>> RAM engines does a lot of the big Continentals, that have more wear
>> issues on the cylinder choke, and they require use of Phillips X-C
>> during warranty period. Aviation Consumer suggests Phillips X-C with a
>> dose of CamGuard for Lycomings, because the cam doesn't get as much
>> oil being above the crank, where in Continentals it is below the
>> crank. I've been using the Exxon Elite, but will probably shift to
>> Phillips shortly.
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Pascal<rv10flyer@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal"<rv10flyer@verizon.net>
>>>
>>> Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use
>>> XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different
>>> opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for
>>> the oils that don't have corrosion protection.
>>> Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear
>>> about it, here is the webinar on the topic.
>>> http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message----- From: Robin Marks
>>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:17 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service report
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks<robin@painttheweb.com>
>>>
>>> With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of
>>> engine builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose Aeroshell
>>> over Phillips 100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is a
>>> way to really keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change
>>> every 25 hours but have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to
>>> strike a balance between 25 and 50 hour oil chances.
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:40 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service report
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs.
>>>
>>> Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to
>>> Aeroshell 100 for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a
>>> difference.
>>>
>>> Rob Kermanj
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen<apilot2@gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the
>>>> problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it
>>>> couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much
>>>> better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell
>>>> multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips
>>>> XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all
>>>> single weight oils are full mineral oil.
>>>> The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the
>>>> oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,
>>>> mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox<rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste
>>>>> with slight green cast - its sounds like the lead that is in 100LL
>>>>> avgas. It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines.
>>>>> Because of the relative weight it settles out.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh@netzero.com"<n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>>>>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> do not archive
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ben Haas
>>>>>> N801BH
>>>>>> www.haaspowerair.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>>>>> From: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Service report
>>>>>> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:02:13 -0400
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane.
>>>>>> I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge
>>>>>> caked inside
>>>>>> the crank. This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I cycle my prop almost at every flight.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the
>>>>>> sludge.
>>>>>> No amount of thinner would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume
>>>>>> metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry
>>>>>> and came off powdery like.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the
>>>>>> good time to clean the crank.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It would be nice to know other people experiences.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Do not arch======================bsp; -
>>>>>> MATRON========================; - List Contsp;&nb======
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ____________________________________________________________
>>>>>> 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
>>>>>> Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
>>>>>> ConsumerLifestyles.org
>>>>>>
>>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
Just to keep the waters as muddy as possible...
I've used both X/C 20-50 and am presently using Exxon Elite,
and basically I've found the same issue when using both of them.
I know as Kelly says, the mineral oil can suspend some things
better than the semi synthetics, so I'm sure that could have
some effect, but this isn't really all that much like
sludge...it's more like a deposit of lead. I could
save some next time I look, but, in order to see it you have
to pull your prop. With that in mind, my guess is that
many many people have this happening but most just don't know
it because they haven't had the opportunity to pull their
prop to replace a belt or anything like that.
It could be from colder weather operation, it could be
something maybe from operating at higher altitudes.
Who knows. I did take note of it, but didn't really
think of it as something completely unusual. It looks
a bit like grey modeling clay. It came out real easy
for me. It collects in the prop hub, just around that
o-ring area where it meets the crankshaft.
I just got off the phone with Hartzell to get their take
on it. I'm not worried about it but I find it strange
that when people worry about things, they don't call the
obvious sources first...and get the vendor answer. So
I did. He said that they've seen that before and it's
basically engine sludge. He didn't want to venture a
guess as to what it's comprised of, but personally I
really would think it could easily be lead byproducts
from piston blowby that would just naturally occur.
When I told him that I had 800 hours since early 2006,
he said "that's a lot of hours". So apparently to them,
I've got quite a bit of time on the prop. He said
TBO is 6 years or 2400 hours, so sometime next year
he says I should consider an overhaul...and noted that
since I'm an experimental that I'm not regulated to
do that, but could consider it. He said if I wanted
to, I could have the prop flushed. Personally I'm
really not that worried. The prop functions fine,
and the buildup seems to be limited to just that
one area. I don't remember super well (heck,it's
only been a month, how old am I getting?!) but I
think maybe that area of the hub is larger in
diameter and gives an area to collect easily. The
centrifugal force would tend to get gunk to collect
there. So I just clean it out, and go on my merry
way. Looking into the prop it doesn't look as
bad at all, nor into the crank...just that area.
So anyway, you should probably all be replacing belts
every 5 years and things of that nature anyway, so
just take the time to BUY A COUPLE EXTRA PROP O-RINGS
so you can change them EVERY time you pull the prop,
and then pull your prop at annual maybe ever 3-5 years
and give it an inspection. Maybe you'll see something
to clean out, maybe you won't.
On the topic of oil, the general take of Aviation Consumer
is that Exxon Elite has slightly better corrosion
protection but their recommendation for oil (partly due to
cost) is Philips X/C 20-50 to save money and for good
oil, and then a bottle of camguard for added corrosion
protection. I think this is reasonable advice. Most
planes in my area have run X/C 20-50 for years (remember
i'm in a colder area) and have had no issues. I myself
wanted the best corrosion protection I can have, because
I don't fly as often in the colder months, so I paid
the upcharge for Exxon Elite for oil and I STILL run
camguard in the engine. I've also spent a few hundred
hours with X/C 20-50. My old plane I used Aeroshell.
So I've used them all. If it weren't for the fact that
I already own 6 or 8 cases of elite, I'd consider
running Philips x/c 20-50 again, but I'd never
drop the camguard.
Tim
On 10/17/2011 2:20 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>
> I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that Tim has
had the same experience.
>
> I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different results. Considering
this a research opportunity.
>
> I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion when using
fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank and found no sludge
after a few hundred hours.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Rob Kermanj
> Sent from my iPhone
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Plane Power and Lycoming Pulley Alignment Issue |
To summarize what I believe happened that has not been confirmed by any of the
three companies involved. Van's attempted to respond to a large customer and
many other RV-10 builders that are installing air conditioning in their aircraft,
requested Lycoming to switch the ring gear on the YIO-540-D4A5 that Van's
resells to a dual pulley gear. Lycoming compiled with the request and supplied
a LW-12227 ring gear. Lycoming failed to mention to Van's that the alternative
belt grooved moved aft a little. Nobody told Plane Power that even the engine
configuration was changed.
With that stated, both Plane Power and Lycoming have responded to my inquiry and
have been very actively working on a solution. The list price on a new ring
gear is about $1,700. Van's has not responded other than to pass the buck to
their suppliers.
The following was the first email that I received today from Plane Power.
Lycoming reports that the alignment difference is .130 with the alternator pulley
forward of the flywheel pulley. This fits what you have reported as well.
If the alternator is adjusted to move aft (toward the firewall) to align with
the flywheel pulley the Tension Arm (99-1004) will also be off alignment.
We intend to produce a kit solution for future applications. We understand your
need is now so we offer the following suggestion to you.
1. Verify that you need your alternator to be moved .130 (or whatever your requirement
is) and make that your new target point.
2. Leave the 99-1001 spacer attached to the alternator as it presently is. We
dont think you can remove it with satisfactory results. Machine grind the 99-1001
spacer by .130. Leave a flat surface. This will move the entire alternator
aft. In doing so it will create a void at the 99-1002 front spacer.
3. Add a spacer or washers between the 99-1002 spacer and the mount bracket.
4. Add a spacer or washers between the tension arm (99-1004) and alternator where
the tension arm connects to the alternator.
5. The starter strap will be attached on the outside of the mount as usual and
no modification should be needed.
The above instructions have not gone through our engineering process. It represents
our effort to give you suggestions to assist you in your EXPERIMENTAL effort
to fabricate a solution for your application. It is up to you to verify
that the above suggestions are appropriate for your application.
To be honest, my immediate reaction was pretty negative with this response. I
purchased an engine and a fire wall forward kit from Van's with the expectation
that the alternator, alternator belt, and the engine ring gear alignment would
be plug and play, just like it has been for years. I don't have the tools
to perform these tasks nor the willingness to hire a firm to make them for me.
Van's should have stepped up and admitted to the oversight, then work with
the vendors to make all the builders that purchased this variation of the engine
and the FWF suppled alternator a solution. The more I think about it, Van's
should publish a service bulletin on this situation. If folks don't notice the
1/8" offset, they will eventually lose a belt due to coming off or premature
wear.
Fortunately, Plane Power understanding that I probably didn't have the tools to
be sucessful with their original instructions, sent me the following email a
little later today.
We have a new solution for you. We are going to ship you some new spacers which
we will cut down the size. So call me ASAP so we can get address, etc. and
discus.
We thought removing the existing spacers from the alternator would be very difficult.
So we tried and experiment and liked the results. To get your current
two spacers out of the alternator do this. Get a container that will allow you
to fill to a certain point with lacquer thinner. Arrange your project so you
can soak the ear and spacer of the alternator in the lacquer thinner. DO NOT
GET THE ALTERNATOR CASING IN THE THINNER - JUST THE EAR AND SPACER.
Leave submerged for one hour. Remove from the thinner and using a vice, pliers,
etc twist the spacer out of the alternator ear. Perform the same task on the
other ear & spacer. Then you can replace the old spacers with the new ones
we will send you.
I suspect it will be a week or so before I can attempt to make this modification.
I'll post an update with the results.
Bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - FWF
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355317#355317
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
I had my MT propeller off during the summer of 2010 when I was replacing my air
conditioner compressor and alternator mounts. I had MT repaint the prop while
it was off. MT went through the prop and replaced seals and checked everything
while they had it. There was sludge in my crank (just under 300 hours at that
time) and MT was unconcerned, as was the A&P next door to me that rebuilds quite
a few engines. I cleaned it out and went on my way. My engine overhauler
recommended W100 Plus for a warm climate airplane and that is what I have been
using since shortly after finishing phase 1. Prior to that I was using W100 and
adding camguard.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355318#355318
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
Keep in mind that NO one flying under Part 91 pays any attention to
Hartzell's TBO. Only Part 135 may have to comply, depending on
individual Ops specs. What is recommended is that you consider some
where between 6 and 10 years to have a prop shop tear down, inspect and
repair as necessary. Do NOT let them overhaul unless your blades are
significantly nicked or eroded, because an overhaul requires removal of
metal from the blades, whether they need it or not, to ensure the blade
meets the overhaul profile. The only consideration is how often your
prop is exposed to wet/icy/snowy weather, as opposed to being in a
hangar. The reason to tear down is to ensure no corrosion is happening
and get fresh seals and lube. Cost is less than 1/2 the price of overhaul.
On 10/17/2011 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Just to keep the waters as muddy as possible...
>
> I
>
> When I told him that I had 800 hours since early 2006,
> he said "that's a lot of hours". So apparently to them,
> I've got quite a bit of time on the prop. He said
> TBO is 6 years or 2400 hours, so sometime next year
> he says I should consider an overhaul...and noted that
> since I'm an experimental that I'm not regulated to
> do that, but could consider it. He said if I wanted
> to, I could have the prop flushed. Personally I'm
> really not that worried. The prop functions fine,
> and the buildup seems to be limited to just that
> one area. I don't remember super well (heck,it's
> only been a month, how old am I getting?!) but I
> think maybe that area of the hub is larger in
> diameter and gives an area to collect easily. The
> centrifugal force would tend to get gunk to collect
> there. So I just clean it out, and go on my merry
> way. Looking into the prop it doesn't look as
> bad at all, nor into the crank...just that area.
>
> So anyway, you should probably all be replacing belts
> every 5 years and things of that nature anyway, so
> just take the time to BUY A COUPLE EXTRA PROP O-RINGS
> so you can change them EVERY time you pull the prop,
> and then pull your prop at annual maybe ever 3-5 years
> and give it an inspection. Maybe you'll see something
> to clean out, maybe you won't.
>
> On the topic of oil, the general take of Aviation Consumer
> is that Exxon Elite has slightly better corrosion
> protection but their recommendation for oil (partly due to
> cost) is Philips X/C 20-50 to save money and for good
> oil, and then a bottle of camguard for added corrosion
> protection. I think this is reasonable advice. Most
> planes in my area have run X/C 20-50 for years (remember
> i'm in a colder area) and have had no issues. I myself
> wanted the best corrosion protection I can have, because
> I don't fly as often in the colder months, so I paid
> the upcharge for Exxon Elite for oil and I STILL run
> camguard in the engine. I've also spent a few hundred
> hours with X/C 20-50. My old plane I used Aeroshell.
> So I've used them all. If it weren't for the fact that
> I already own 6 or 8 cases of elite, I'd consider
> running Philips x/c 20-50 again, but I'd never
> drop the camguard.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 10/17/2011 2:20 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>
>> I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that
>> Tim has had the same experience.
>>
>> I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different
>> results. Considering this a research opportunity.
>>
>> I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion
>> when using fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank
>> and found no sludge after a few hundred hours.
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
Aeroshell 100Plus is a way to throw away good money that could be buying
fuel. Only engines that require the Lycoming oil additive by AD (like
the O320H2AD engine) need the Plus. Regular 100 is fine as is, and cam
guard would be a good anti-corrosive. All the Lycoming additive does is
add extreme pressure lube (TCP to be precise) but does nothing for
corrosion protection.
On 10/17/2011 3:18 PM, dmaib@me.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@me.com"<dmaib@me.com>
>
> I had my MT propeller off during the summer of 2010 when I was replacing my air
conditioner compressor and alternator mounts. I had MT repaint the prop while
it was off. MT went through the prop and replaced seals and checked everything
while they had it. There was sludge in my crank (just under 300 hours at that
time) and MT was unconcerned, as was the A&P next door to me that rebuilds
quite a few engines. I cleaned it out and went on my way. My engine overhauler
recommended W100 Plus for a warm climate airplane and that is what I have been
using since shortly after finishing phase 1. Prior to that I was using W100
and adding camguard.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355318#355318
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Plane Power and Lycoming Pulley Alignment Issue |
After flying since 2008 I rolled the belt on my second alternator which is
mounted below the governor and driven by a second belt. Upon close
examination of the large pulley I too, have one grove and one semi grove.
The semi grove is so close I never noticed that it was different until I had
belt problems.
Someone mentioned that they had theirs machined into a actual belt grove.
Who did the machining and what did it cost?
Thanks
Gary Specketer
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 2011 Copperstate RV10 Nest |
I should be set up by early afternoon on Thurs. Chairs, shade, and water/soft
drinks will always be available. Looking forward to a great turnout and show.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355347#355347
Message 15
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| Subject: | Torque tube assembly doesn't fit |
I am at the step:
"Cleco the assembly to the upper and lower flanges of the W-1010-R Inboard Wing
Rib as shown in Figure 5. (The support brackets Cleco into the forth and fifth
holes back from the front of the main flange not counting the tab.) Clamp the
W-1029C Angle flush against the aft face of the W-1029B-L Torque Tube Support
Bracket and the inboard face of the inboard wing rib."
The problem is that the assembly is in contact with the aft end of the forward
lightening hole. Because the edge of the torque tube assembly is not against the
rib, the holes in the rib flange from lining up. (In other words, it doesn't
fit)
I am not sure what the best solution is..... take a bit off the assembly where
it contacts the lightening hole or .... not sure what the other option is.
Any ideas?
(oh yea... working on the left wing. )
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355353#355353
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