Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:24 AM - Re: Painting SS Screws (jayb)
2. 08:28 AM - Re: Re: Painting SS Screws (Tim Olson)
3. 08:34 AM - Re: Service report (Scott Schmidt)
4. 09:33 AM - Re: Service report (Rob Kermanj)
5. 12:29 PM - Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit (dmaib@me.com)
6. 12:36 PM - Walt Cunningham gives me a "no go" for space fligh (Tom Biggs)
7. 12:41 PM - Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit (Tom Biggs)
8. 01:28 PM - Re: Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit (John Cumins)
9. 02:50 PM - Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit (Tom Biggs)
10. 03:16 PM - Re: Walt Cunningham gives me a "no go" for space fligh (Tom Biggs)
11. 04:50 PM - Re: Re: Walt Cunningham gives me a "no go" for space fligh (Michael Kraus)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Painting SS Screws |
Worked great! Thank you...
Jay
Tim Olson wrote:
> Just scuff them up and you should be OK painting them like normal.
> it won't bond quite as well, but paint about 2x the number of screws
> you really need, and just keep them handy so if you scratch one up
> bad you can replace it. I've got lots of painted stainless screws
> on mine and they aren't bad at all....better than the black oxide ones
> that I used, that I still had to paint black. Next time I'll use
> stainless of those too and paint them.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
> On 10/4/2011 9:39 AM, jayb wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm considering painting the stainless screws that hold the panel in place.
Does anything special need to be done to prep them for the paint to stick? I'm
using PPG auto paint if it matters.
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355392#355392
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Painting SS Screws |
Yeah, just paint some extra so that when you scratch them
up, you can throw in some new ones. I still have a bunch
that I painted originally, so I haven't had to do any
touchup other than on the black ones.
Tim
On 10/18/2011 9:21 AM, jayb wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jayb"<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Worked great! Thank you...
>
> Jay
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> Just scuff them up and you should be OK painting them like normal.
>> it won't bond quite as well, but paint about 2x the number of screws
>> you really need, and just keep them handy so if you scratch one up
>> bad you can replace it. I've got lots of painted stainless screws
>> on mine and they aren't bad at all....better than the black oxide ones
>> that I used, that I still had to paint black. Next time I'll use
>> stainless of those too and paint them.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>> On 10/4/2011 9:39 AM, jayb wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I'm considering painting the stainless screws that hold the panel in place.
Does anything special need to be done to prep them for the paint to stick?
I'm using PPG auto paint if it matters.
>>>
>>>
>>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
I was told that this is very typical by a local mechanic. I have cleaned mine twice
and have used mostly Aeroshell 15-50.
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 17, 2011, at 2:29 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> Just to keep the waters as muddy as possible...
>
> I've used both X/C 20-50 and am presently using Exxon Elite,
> and basically I've found the same issue when using both of them.
> I know as Kelly says, the mineral oil can suspend some things
> better than the semi synthetics, so I'm sure that could have
> some effect, but this isn't really all that much like
> sludge...it's more like a deposit of lead. I could
> save some next time I look, but, in order to see it you have
> to pull your prop. With that in mind, my guess is that
> many many people have this happening but most just don't know
> it because they haven't had the opportunity to pull their
> prop to replace a belt or anything like that.
>
> It could be from colder weather operation, it could be
> something maybe from operating at higher altitudes.
> Who knows. I did take note of it, but didn't really
> think of it as something completely unusual. It looks
> a bit like grey modeling clay. It came out real easy
> for me. It collects in the prop hub, just around that
> o-ring area where it meets the crankshaft.
>
> I just got off the phone with Hartzell to get their take
> on it. I'm not worried about it but I find it strange
> that when people worry about things, they don't call the
> obvious sources first...and get the vendor answer. So
> I did. He said that they've seen that before and it's
> basically engine sludge. He didn't want to venture a
> guess as to what it's comprised of, but personally I
> really would think it could easily be lead byproducts
> from piston blowby that would just naturally occur.
>
> When I told him that I had 800 hours since early 2006,
> he said "that's a lot of hours". So apparently to them,
> I've got quite a bit of time on the prop. He said
> TBO is 6 years or 2400 hours, so sometime next year
> he says I should consider an overhaul...and noted that
> since I'm an experimental that I'm not regulated to
> do that, but could consider it. He said if I wanted
> to, I could have the prop flushed. Personally I'm
> really not that worried. The prop functions fine,
> and the buildup seems to be limited to just that
> one area. I don't remember super well (heck,it's
> only been a month, how old am I getting?!) but I
> think maybe that area of the hub is larger in
> diameter and gives an area to collect easily. The
> centrifugal force would tend to get gunk to collect
> there. So I just clean it out, and go on my merry
> way. Looking into the prop it doesn't look as
> bad at all, nor into the crank...just that area.
>
> So anyway, you should probably all be replacing belts
> every 5 years and things of that nature anyway, so
> just take the time to BUY A COUPLE EXTRA PROP O-RINGS
> so you can change them EVERY time you pull the prop,
> and then pull your prop at annual maybe ever 3-5 years
> and give it an inspection. Maybe you'll see something
> to clean out, maybe you won't.
>
> On the topic of oil, the general take of Aviation Consumer
> is that Exxon Elite has slightly better corrosion
> protection but their recommendation for oil (partly due to
> cost) is Philips X/C 20-50 to save money and for good
> oil, and then a bottle of camguard for added corrosion
> protection. I think this is reasonable advice. Most
> planes in my area have run X/C 20-50 for years (remember
> i'm in a colder area) and have had no issues. I myself
> wanted the best corrosion protection I can have, because
> I don't fly as often in the colder months, so I paid
> the upcharge for Exxon Elite for oil and I STILL run
> camguard in the engine. I've also spent a few hundred
> hours with X/C 20-50. My old plane I used Aeroshell.
> So I've used them all. If it weren't for the fact that
> I already own 6 or 8 cases of elite, I'd consider
> running Philips x/c 20-50 again, but I'd never
> drop the camguard.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 10/17/2011 2:20 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>
>> I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that Tim has
had the same experience.
>>
>> I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different results. Considering
this a research opportunity.
>>
>> I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion when using
fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank and found no sludge
after a few hundred hours.
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Service report |
Thanks. Good to know. My RV 6 hardly had any sludge in the crack so I got excited
about it.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 18, 2011, at 11:32 AM, Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I was told that this is very typical by a local mechanic. I have cleaned mine
twice and have used mostly Aeroshell 15-50.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 17, 2011, at 2:29 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Just to keep the waters as muddy as possible...
>>
>> I've used both X/C 20-50 and am presently using Exxon Elite,
>> and basically I've found the same issue when using both of them.
>> I know as Kelly says, the mineral oil can suspend some things
>> better than the semi synthetics, so I'm sure that could have
>> some effect, but this isn't really all that much like
>> sludge...it's more like a deposit of lead. I could
>> save some next time I look, but, in order to see it you have
>> to pull your prop. With that in mind, my guess is that
>> many many people have this happening but most just don't know
>> it because they haven't had the opportunity to pull their
>> prop to replace a belt or anything like that.
>>
>> It could be from colder weather operation, it could be
>> something maybe from operating at higher altitudes.
>> Who knows. I did take note of it, but didn't really
>> think of it as something completely unusual. It looks
>> a bit like grey modeling clay. It came out real easy
>> for me. It collects in the prop hub, just around that
>> o-ring area where it meets the crankshaft.
>>
>> I just got off the phone with Hartzell to get their take
>> on it. I'm not worried about it but I find it strange
>> that when people worry about things, they don't call the
>> obvious sources first...and get the vendor answer. So
>> I did. He said that they've seen that before and it's
>> basically engine sludge. He didn't want to venture a
>> guess as to what it's comprised of, but personally I
>> really would think it could easily be lead byproducts
>> from piston blowby that would just naturally occur.
>>
>> When I told him that I had 800 hours since early 2006,
>> he said "that's a lot of hours". So apparently to them,
>> I've got quite a bit of time on the prop. He said
>> TBO is 6 years or 2400 hours, so sometime next year
>> he says I should consider an overhaul...and noted that
>> since I'm an experimental that I'm not regulated to
>> do that, but could consider it. He said if I wanted
>> to, I could have the prop flushed. Personally I'm
>> really not that worried. The prop functions fine,
>> and the buildup seems to be limited to just that
>> one area. I don't remember super well (heck,it's
>> only been a month, how old am I getting?!) but I
>> think maybe that area of the hub is larger in
>> diameter and gives an area to collect easily. The
>> centrifugal force would tend to get gunk to collect
>> there. So I just clean it out, and go on my merry
>> way. Looking into the prop it doesn't look as
>> bad at all, nor into the crank...just that area.
>>
>> So anyway, you should probably all be replacing belts
>> every 5 years and things of that nature anyway, so
>> just take the time to BUY A COUPLE EXTRA PROP O-RINGS
>> so you can change them EVERY time you pull the prop,
>> and then pull your prop at annual maybe ever 3-5 years
>> and give it an inspection. Maybe you'll see something
>> to clean out, maybe you won't.
>>
>> On the topic of oil, the general take of Aviation Consumer
>> is that Exxon Elite has slightly better corrosion
>> protection but their recommendation for oil (partly due to
>> cost) is Philips X/C 20-50 to save money and for good
>> oil, and then a bottle of camguard for added corrosion
>> protection. I think this is reasonable advice. Most
>> planes in my area have run X/C 20-50 for years (remember
>> i'm in a colder area) and have had no issues. I myself
>> wanted the best corrosion protection I can have, because
>> I don't fly as often in the colder months, so I paid
>> the upcharge for Exxon Elite for oil and I STILL run
>> camguard in the engine. I've also spent a few hundred
>> hours with X/C 20-50. My old plane I used Aeroshell.
>> So I've used them all. If it weren't for the fact that
>> I already own 6 or 8 cases of elite, I'd consider
>> running Philips x/c 20-50 again, but I'd never
>> drop the camguard.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On 10/17/2011 2:20 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj<flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that Tim has
had the same experience.
>>>
>>> I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different results. Considering
this a research opportunity.
>>>
>>> I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion when
using fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank and found no
sludge after a few hundred hours.
>>>
>>> Do not archive.
>>>
>>> Rob Kermanj
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit |
Be careful when you start thinking about taking off metal to make something fit.
There is a chance that you have something backwards, on the wrong wing, upside
down, etc. As I recall, "R" or "L" at the end of the part number does not always
mean "Right" or "Left" wing. Inboard fuel tanks end ribs are an example,
if I recall correctly. At any rate, it might be worth going back over the plans
and making sure all parts are the correct ones. Been there, done that. :?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355450#355450
Message 6
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| Subject: | Walt Cunningham gives me a "no go" for space fligh |
My dad is good friends with Walt Cunningham (Apollo 7 Lunar Module Pilot). We had
lunch today and he came by to check the progress on my RV-10. Alas he says
it is not fit for space travel.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355451#355451
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit |
Everything is right except the lightening hole interferes with the bracket. I have
been told that the best solution is to remove the bend in the lightening hole
where it interferes. I am going to call Van's later today and see what they
have to say.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355452#355452
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit |
I remember that part it will fit but be real close to the lightning hole. I
will basically sit above the extrusion.
I just looked at mine last night.
John Cumins
President
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Biggs
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 12:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit
Everything is right except the lightening hole interferes with the bracket.
I have been told that the best solution is to remove the bend in the
lightening hole where it interferes. I am going to call Van's later today
and see what they have to say.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355452#355452
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Torque tube assembly doesn't fit |
Called Van's and they did not hesitate, flatten out the lightening hole where it
obstructs the bracket.
Can't wait to get home and literally knock it out.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355468#355468
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Walt Cunningham gives me a "no go" for space fligh |
Bah. Photo did not attach.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355472#355472
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/walt_cunningham_902.jpg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Walt Cunningham gives me a "no go" for space fligh |
Of course it isn't fit for space flight, you don't have enough clecos in it!
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 18, 2011, at 6:12 PM, "Tom Biggs" <rv10@tmbiggs.com> wrote:
>
> Bah. Photo did not attach.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355472#355472
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/walt_cunningham_902.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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