Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:38 AM - Re: Does anyone know what these avionics do? (Ralph E. Capen)
     2. 08:34 AM - Re: FW: Window Glue (Les Kearney)
     3. 09:07 AM - Re: FW: Window Glue (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
     4. 11:45 AM - Re: FW: Window Glue (Geoff Combs)
     5. 04:38 PM - Re: FW: Window Glue (Patrick Pulis)
     6. 06:04 PM - Re: FW: Window Glue (g.combs)
     7. 10:15 PM - Matronics Web Services Restored! (Matt Dralle)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Does anyone know what these avionics do? | 
      
      
      The one on the left looks like a marker beacon display - could be part of an audio
      panel.
      
      The one on the right has old-style numeric display lights - 
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol@xtra.co.nz>
      >Sent: Dec 6, 2011 11:39 PM
      >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
      >Subject: RV10-List: Does anyone know what these avionics do?
      >
      >This flew into our neighboring strip yesterday.
      >
      >I recognise the ancient G420 (?), but that's all.
      >
      >Any of you read russian?
      >
      >I suspect the blue box may be autopilot, but possible not.
      >(the funny curved thing above the blue box appears to be an outboard motor)
      >
      >Cheers
      >Neil
      >
      >do not archive
      >
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: FW: Window Glue | 
      
      
      Michael 
      
      The post and the links are greatly appreciated. 
      
      For clarity, how many tubes are require each side, door and main window. 
      
      Cheers
      
      Les
      
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      On 2011-12-06, at 8:47 PM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      wrote:
      
      > Here is my original write-up that Kelley referred to......
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Michael Sausen On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
      > Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 10:30 AM
      > To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
      > Subject: Window Glue
      > 
      > I thought I would share my experience with an alternative glue for adhering the
      windows.  Based on a recommendation from Geoff Combs, I picked up some Lord
      7545A/E urethane adhesive rather than using the Weldon 10 we are all familiar
      with.
      > 
      > I did follow the standard process with the rear windows and after that experience,
      along with forgetting my shims in the rush, I thought I would look into
      the alternatives.  After not really finding anything definitive from the existing
      alternatives like Sikaflex I basically resigned myself to use Weldon for the
      doors.  As I got within a couple weeks of doing the door windows Geoff had
      mentioned to me that he used something else for the window adhesive that was very
      much suited for the task and didn't have the quick cure times and viscosity
      issues of Weldon.  I had forgot about it until he had a brief blurb in one of
      his post a couple weeks back.  So I got more details from him and found a distributor
      that I could get the 50ML two part cartridge.  The stuff is comparable
      in price to the Weldon at about $13 a kit and each 50ML kit will do a window
      easily.  There is an additional cost in that you need a gun which is about $30
      but it will work with any two part, 1:1, gun packaged product.  Each pak also
      comes with a self mixing dispensing nozzle so you just stick it in the gun,
      put the nozzle on, and squeeze.  Extra tips are less than a buck and if you don't
      use the whole cartridge you just chuck the tip and put the cap back on.
      > 
      > I'm sure many of you are saying that you've heard this before but this stuff
      is GREAT!  It looks and acts similar to the Weldon but you get upwards of 30min
      working time and it doesn't even sag!  This stuff is made specifically as a
      structural adhesive for plastics so it seems to be an excellent product for this
      application.
      > 
      > Not wanting to completely trust what I read I decided to a little non-scientific
      destructive testing.  I didn't have a piece of scrap fiberglass anymore but
      I did have plenty of scrap plexi from trimming the windows so I took two pieces
      and glued an overlap of about 1.5x1.5 inch on two pieces of scrap.  Cure time
      for this stuff is about 24 hours but I let it sit for about a week.  This
      stuff doesn't get as rock hard as Weldon but it isn't flexible either.  I took
      the glued piece and put it in the vise on its edge and tried to separate it in
      full edge shear (not really sure how to describe it but was the most difficult
      way to break it) and the plexi broke clear of the glue joint.  I then turned
      it flat and tried to peel it apart and again the plexi broke away from the glue
      joint.  So far the glue joint hasn't budged.  I then took a hammer and beat
      the crap out of the remaining square which was basically just the glued area.
      After several whacks with the framing hammer I was finally able to get it to
      break into 3 pieces without ANY separation of the glue joint.  I've attached
      a few pictures below so you can see what I'm talking about.
      > 
      > Here is a link to the distributor I got it from.  This page also has a link to
      the gun you need and extra tips if you want them.  Keep in mind each pack comes
      with one tip too.  
      > 
      > http://chemical-concepts.com/products.php?sid=192&limit
      > 
      > Here is a technical datasheet on 7545A:
      > 
      > http://www.glue4you.com/PDF/Lord7545_TN001.pdf
      > 
      > Michael
      > 
      > 
      > <CIMG2094.JPG>
      > <CIMG2083.JPG>
      > <CIMG2089.JPG>
      > <CIMG2091.JPG>
      > <CIMG2092.JPG>
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
      
      
        It's been a while and I only used it on the doors so far but I would budget one
      kit for each side window and probably 2-3 for the windshield just to be safe.
      Someone else may have a better recollection.  I did the side windows with
      Weldon and I was in such a rush that I forgot to put the spacers in and had the
      windows much too low so now there is a transition down to them.  Really wish
      I had the Lord stuff for those.
      
      Michael
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
      Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 10:31 AM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      
      
      Michael 
      
      The post and the links are greatly appreciated. 
      
      For clarity, how many tubes are require each side, door and main window. 
      
      Cheers
      
      Les
      
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      On 2011-12-06, at 8:47 PM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      wrote:
      
      > Here is my original write-up that Kelley referred to......
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Michael Sausen On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
      > Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 10:30 AM
      > To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
      > Subject: Window Glue
      > 
      > I thought I would share my experience with an alternative glue for adhering the
      windows.  Based on a recommendation from Geoff Combs, I picked up some Lord
      7545A/E urethane adhesive rather than using the Weldon 10 we are all familiar
      with.
      > 
      > I did follow the standard process with the rear windows and after that experience,
      along with forgetting my shims in the rush, I thought I would look into
      the alternatives.  After not really finding anything definitive from the existing
      alternatives like Sikaflex I basically resigned myself to use Weldon for the
      doors.  As I got within a couple weeks of doing the door windows Geoff had
      mentioned to me that he used something else for the window adhesive that was very
      much suited for the task and didn't have the quick cure times and viscosity
      issues of Weldon.  I had forgot about it until he had a brief blurb in one of
      his post a couple weeks back.  So I got more details from him and found a distributor
      that I could get the 50ML two part cartridge.  The stuff is comparable
      in price to the Weldon at about $13 a kit and each 50ML kit will do a window
      easily.  There is an additional cost in that you need a gun which is about $30
      but it will work with any two part, 1:1, gun pack!
       aged product.  Each pak also comes with a self mixing dispensing nozzle so you
      just stick it in the gun, put the nozzle on, and squeeze.  Extra tips are less
      than a buck and if you don't use the whole cartridge you just chuck the tip
      and put the cap back on.
      > 
      > I'm sure many of you are saying that you've heard this before but this stuff
      is GREAT!  It looks and acts similar to the Weldon but you get upwards of 30min
      working time and it doesn't even sag!  This stuff is made specifically as a
      structural adhesive for plastics so it seems to be an excellent product for this
      application.
      > 
      > Not wanting to completely trust what I read I decided to a little non-scientific
      destructive testing.  I didn't have a piece of scrap fiberglass anymore but
      I did have plenty of scrap plexi from trimming the windows so I took two pieces
      and glued an overlap of about 1.5x1.5 inch on two pieces of scrap.  Cure time
      for this stuff is about 24 hours but I let it sit for about a week.  This
      stuff doesn't get as rock hard as Weldon but it isn't flexible either.  I took
      the glued piece and put it in the vise on its edge and tried to separate it in
      full edge shear (not really sure how to describe it but was the most difficult
      way to break it) and the plexi broke clear of the glue joint.  I then turned
      it flat and tried to peel it apart and again the plexi broke away from the glue
      joint.  So far the glue joint hasn't budged.  I then took a hammer and beat
      the crap out of the remaining square which was basically just the glued area.
      After several whacks with the framing hammer I wa!
       s finally able to get it to break into 3 pieces without ANY separation of the
      glue joint.  I've attached a few pictures below so you can see what I'm talking
      about.
      > 
      > Here is a link to the distributor I got it from.  This page also has a link to
      the gun you need and extra tips if you want them.  Keep in mind each pack comes
      with one tip too.  
      > 
      > http://chemical-concepts.com/products.php?sid=192&limit
      > 
      > Here is a technical datasheet on 7545A:
      > 
      > http://www.glue4you.com/PDF/Lord7545_TN001.pdf
      > 
      > Michael
      > 
      > 
      > <CIMG2094.JPG>
      > <CIMG2083.JPG>
      > <CIMG2089.JPG>
      > <CIMG2091.JPG>
      > <CIMG2092.JPG>
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Lord says that a 50ml cartridge will do 4.5 feet at 1/4" bead. I would buy
      the 200ML and get 2 of them.
      200 ml will do 19 ft. Rear windows are about 6.5 feet circumference fronts a
      little more. The Windshield 
      is about the same as the door windows.
      Order 4 extra mixing tips. This is also good for gluing the canopy top to
      the fuse at the door
      Frame area.
      
      Geoff 
      
      
      Geoff Combs
      Aerosport 
      8090 Howe Industrial Parkway 
      Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
      614-834-8659p
      614-834-5230f
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
      (Michael Sausen)
      Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 12:04 PM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      
      --> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      
        It's been a while and I only used it on the doors so far but I would
      budget one kit for each side window and probably 2-3 for the windshield just
      to be safe.  Someone else may have a better recollection.  I did the side
      windows with Weldon and I was in such a rush that I forgot to put the
      spacers in and had the windows much too low so now there is a transition
      down to them.  Really wish I had the Lord stuff for those.
      
      Michael
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
      Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 10:31 AM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      
      
      Michael 
      
      The post and the links are greatly appreciated. 
      
      For clarity, how many tubes are require each side, door and main window. 
      
      Cheers
      
      Les
      
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      On 2011-12-06, at 8:47 PM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
      <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
      
      > Here is my original write-up that Kelley referred to......
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Michael Sausen On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
      > Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 10:30 AM
      > To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
      > Subject: Window Glue
      > 
      > I thought I would share my experience with an alternative glue for
      adhering the windows.  Based on a recommendation from Geoff Combs, I picked
      up some Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive rather than using the Weldon 10 we
      are all familiar with.
      > 
      > I did follow the standard process with the rear windows and after that
      experience, along with forgetting my shims in the rush, I thought I would
      look into the alternatives.  After not really finding anything definitive
      from the existing alternatives like Sikaflex I basically resigned myself to
      use Weldon for the doors.  As I got within a couple weeks of doing the door
      windows Geoff had mentioned to me that he used something else for the window
      adhesive that was very much suited for the task and didn't have the quick
      cure times and viscosity issues of Weldon.  I had forgot about it until he
      had a brief blurb in one of his post a couple weeks back.  So I got more
      details from him and found a distributor that I could get the 50ML two part
      cartridge.  The stuff is comparable in price to the Weldon at about $13 a
      kit and each 50ML kit will do a window easily.  There is an additional cost
      in that you need a gun which is about $30 but it will work with any two
      part, 1:1, gun pack!
      
       aged product.  Each pak also comes with a self mixing dispensing nozzle so
      you just stick it in the gun, put the nozzle on, and squeeze.  Extra tips
      are less than a buck and if you don't use the whole cartridge you just chuck
      the tip and put the cap back on.
      > 
      > I'm sure many of you are saying that you've heard this before but this
      stuff is GREAT!  It looks and acts similar to the Weldon but you get upwards
      of 30min working time and it doesn't even sag!  This stuff is made
      specifically as a structural adhesive for plastics so it seems to be an
      excellent product for this application.
      > 
      > Not wanting to completely trust what I read I decided to a little
      non-scientific destructive testing.  I didn't have a piece of scrap
      fiberglass anymore but I did have plenty of scrap plexi from trimming the
      windows so I took two pieces and glued an overlap of about 1.5x1.5 inch on
      two pieces of scrap.  Cure time for this stuff is about 24 hours but I let
      it sit for about a week.  This stuff doesn't get as rock hard as Weldon but
      it isn't flexible either.  I took the glued piece and put it in the vise on
      its edge and tried to separate it in full edge shear (not really sure how to
      describe it but was the most difficult way to break it) and the plexi broke
      clear of the glue joint.  I then turned it flat and tried to peel it apart
      and again the plexi broke away from the glue joint.  So far the glue joint
      hasn't budged.  I then took a hammer and beat the crap out of the remaining
      square which was basically just the glued area.  After several whacks with
      the framing hammer I wa!
      
       s finally able to get it to break into 3 pieces without ANY separation of
      the glue joint.  I've attached a few pictures below so you can see what I'm
      talking about.
      > 
      > Here is a link to the distributor I got it from.  This page also has a
      link to the gun you need and extra tips if you want them.  Keep in mind each
      pack comes with one tip too.  
      > 
      > http://chemical-concepts.com/products.php?sid=192&limit
      > 
      > Here is a technical datasheet on 7545A:
      > 
      > http://www.glue4you.com/PDF/Lord7545_TN001.pdf
      > 
      > Michael
      > 
      > 
      > <CIMG2094.JPG>
      > <CIMG2083.JPG>
      > <CIMG2089.JPG>
      > <CIMG2091.JPG>
      > <CIMG2092.JPG>
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: FW: Window Glue | 
      
      Geoff, I'm struggling to track down the Lord urethane adhesive here in Sout
      h Australia, could you please indicate if its retailed through a specific a
      gency or alternatively, would you consider supplying it to builders?=0A-
      =0ARegards=0A-=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide=0ASouth Australia=0A=0AFrom: Ge
      off Combs <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com =0A
      Sent: Thursday, 8 December 2011 6:12 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Windo
      rtmodeling.com>=0A=0ALord says that a 50ml cartridge will do 4.5 feet at 1/
      4" bead. I would buy=0Athe 200ML and get 2 of them.=0A200 ml will do 19 ft.
       Rear windows are about 6.5 feet circumference fronts a=0Alittle more. The 
      Windshield =0Ais about the same as the door windows.=0AOrder 4 extra mixing
       tips. This is also good for gluing the canopy top to=0Athe fuse at the doo
      r=0AFrame area.=0A=0AGeoff =0A=0A=0A=0AGeoff Combs=0AAerosport =0A8090 Howe
       Industrial Parkway =0ACanal Winchester, Ohio 43110=0A614-834-8659p=0A614-8
      34-5230f=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@
      matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of 
      RV Builder=0A(Michael Sausen)=0ASent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 12:04 PM
      =0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue=0A
      vbuilder@sausen.net>=0A=0A- It's been a while and I only used it on the d
      oors so far but I would=0Abudget one kit for each side window and probably 
      2-3 for the windshield just=0Ato be safe.- Someone else may have a better
       recollection.- I did the side=0Awindows with Weldon and I was in such a 
      rush that I forgot to put the=0Aspacers in and had the windows much too low
       so now there is a transition=0Adown to them.- Really wish I had the Lord
       stuff for those.=0A=0AMichael=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owne
      r-rv10-list-server@matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics
      .com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney=0ASent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 10:31 A
      M=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      ichael =0A=0AThe post and the links are greatly appreciated. =0A=0AFor clar
      ity, how many tubes are require each side, door and main window. =0A=0AChee
      rs=0A=0ALes=0A=0ASent from my iPhone=0A=0AOn 2011-12-06, at 8:47 PM, "RV Bu
      ilder (Michael Sausen)"=0A<rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:=0A=0A> Here is my o
      riginal write-up that Kelley referred to......=0A> =0A> -----Original Messa
      ge-----=0A> From: Michael Sausen On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
      =0A> Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 10:30 AM=0A> To: 'rv10-list@matronics.c
      om'=0A> Subject: Window Glue=0A> =0A> I thought I would share my experience
       with an alternative glue for=0Aadhering the windows.- Based on a recomme
      ndation from Geoff Combs, I picked=0Aup some Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive
       rather than using the Weldon 10 we=0Aare all familiar with.=0A> =0A> I did
       follow the standard process with the rear windows and after that=0Aexperie
      nce, along with forgetting my shims in the rush, I thought I would=0Alook i
      nto the alternatives.- After not really finding anything definitive=0Afro
      m the existing alternatives like Sikaflex I basically resigned myself to=0A
      use Weldon for the doors.- As I got within a couple weeks of doing the do
      or=0Awindows Geoff had mentioned to me that he used something else for the 
      window=0Aadhesive that was very much suited for the task and didn't have th
      e quick=0Acure times and viscosity issues of Weldon.- I had forgot about 
      it until he=0Ahad a brief blurb in one of his post a couple weeks back.- 
      So I got more=0Adetails from him and found a distributor that I could get t
      he 50ML two part=0Acartridge.- The stuff is comparable in price to the We
      ldon at about $13 a=0Akit and each 50ML kit will do a window easily.- The
      re is an additional cost=0Ain that you need a gun which is about $30 but it
       will work with any two=0Apart, 1:1, gun pack!=0A=0Aaged product.- Each p
      ak also comes with a self mixing dispensing nozzle so=0Ayou just stick it i
      n the gun, put the nozzle on, and squeeze.- Extra tips=0Aare less than a 
      buck and if you don't use the whole cartridge you just chuck=0Athe tip and 
      put the cap back on.=0A> =0A> I'm sure many of you are saying that you've h
      eard this before but this=0Astuff is GREAT!- It looks and acts similar to
       the Weldon but you get upwards=0Aof 30min working time and it doesn't even
       sag!- This stuff is made=0Aspecifically as a structural adhesive for pla
      stics so it seems to be an=0Aexcellent product for this application.=0A> 
      =0A> Not wanting to completely trust what I read I decided to a little=0Ano
      n-scientific destructive testing.- I didn't have a piece of scrap=0Afiber
      glass anymore but I did have plenty of scrap plexi from trimming the=0Awind
      ows so I took two pieces and glued an overlap of about 1.5x1.5 inch on=0Atw
      o pieces of scrap.- Cure time for this stuff is about 24 hours but I let
      =0Ait sit for about a week.- This stuff doesn't get as rock hard as Weldo
      n but=0Ait isn't flexible either.- I took the glued piece and put it in t
      he vise on=0Aits edge and tried to separate it in full edge shear (not real
      ly sure how to=0Adescribe it but was the most difficult way to break it) an
      d the plexi broke=0Aclear of the glue joint.- I then turned it flat and t
      ried to peel it apart=0Aand again the plexi broke away from the glue joint.
      - So far the glue joint=0Ahasn't budged.- I then took a hammer and beat
       the crap out of the remaining=0Asquare which was basically just the glued 
      area.- After several whacks with=0Athe framing hammer I wa!=0A=0As finall
      y able to get it to break into 3 pieces without ANY separation of=0Athe glu
      e joint.- I've attached a few pictures below so you can see what I'm=0Ata
      lking about.=0A> =0A> Here is a link to the distributor I got it from.- T
      his page also has a=0Alink to the gun you need and extra tips if you want t
      hem.- Keep in mind each=0Apack comes with one tip too.- =0A> =0A> http:
      //chemical-concepts.com/products.php?sid=192&limit==0A> =0A> Here is a 
      technical datasheet on 7545A:=0A> =0A> http://www.glue4you.com/PDF/Lord7545
      _TN001.pdf=0A> =0A> Michael=0A> =0A> =0A> <CIMG2094.JPG>=0A> <CIMG2083.JPG>
      =0A> <CIMG2089.JPG>=0A> <CIMG2091.JPG>=0A> <CIMG2092.JPG>=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
      =========================0A
      =======================
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: FW: Window Glue | 
      
      I am considering selling it to builders.
      I will know here by the end of the week.
      
      Geoff
      
      Sent from my iPhone Geoff
      
      
      On Dec 7, 2011, at 7:34 PM, Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
      
      
      > Geoff, I'm struggling to track down the Lord urethane adhesive here in Sou
      th Australia, could you please indicate if its retailed through a specific a
      gency or alternatively, would you consider supplying it to builders?
      >  
      > Regards
      >  
      > Patrick Pulis
      > Adelaide
      > South Australia
      > 
      > From: Geoff Combs <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
      > To: rv10-list@matronics.com 
      > Sent: Thursday, 8 December 2011 6:12 AM
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      > 
      com>
      > 
      > Lord says that a 50ml cartridge will do 4.5 feet at 1/4" bead. I would buy
      
      > the 200ML and get 2 of them.
      > 200 ml will do 19 ft. Rear windows are about 6.5 feet circumference fronts
       a
      > little more. The Windshield 
      > is about the same as the door windows.
      > Order 4 extra mixing tips. This is also good for gluing the canopy top to
      > the fuse at the door
      > Frame area.
      > 
      > Geoff 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Geoff Combs
      > Aerosport 
      > 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway 
      > Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
      > 614-834-8659p
      > 614-834-5230f
      > 
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
      > (Michael Sausen)
      > Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 12:04 PM
      > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      > 
      > --> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      > 
      >   It's been a while and I only used it on the doors so far but I would
      > budget one kit for each side window and probably 2-3 for the windshield ju
      st
      > to be safe.  Someone else may have a better recollection.  I did the side
      > windows with Weldon and I was in such a rush that I forgot to put the
      > spacers in and had the windows much too low so now there is a transition
      > down to them.  Really wish I had the Lord stuff for those.
      > 
      > Michael
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
      > Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 10:31 AM
      > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Window Glue
      > 
      > 
      > Michael 
      > 
      > The post and the links are greatly appreciated. 
      > 
      > For clarity, how many tubes are require each side, door and main window. 
      
      > 
      > Cheers
      > 
      > Les
      > 
      > Sent from my iPhone
      > 
      > On 2011-12-06, at 8:47 PM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
      > <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
      > 
      > > Here is my original write-up that Kelley referred to......
      > > 
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: Michael Sausen On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
      > > Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 10:30 AM
      > > To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
      > > Subject: Window Glue
      > > 
      > > I thought I would share my experience with an alternative glue for
      > adhering the windows.  Based on a recommendation from Geoff Combs, I picke
      d
      > up some Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive rather than using the Weldon 10 we
      > are all familiar with.
      > > 
      > > I did follow the standard process with the rear windows and after that
      > experience, along with forgetting my shims in the rush, I thought I would
      > look into the alternatives.  After not really finding anything definitive
      > from the existing alternatives like Sikaflex I basically resigned myself t
      o
      > use Weldon for the doors.  As I got within a couple weeks of doing the doo
      r
      > windows Geoff had mentioned to me that he used something else for the wind
      ow
      > adhesive that was very much suited for the task and didn't have the quick
      > cure times and viscosity issues of Weldon.  I had forgot about it until he
      
      > had a brief blurb in one of his post a couple weeks back.  So I got more
      > details from him and found a distributor that I could get the 50ML two par
      t
      > cartridge.  The stuff is comparable in price to the Weldon at about $13 a
      > kit and each 50ML kit will do a window easily.  There is an additional cos
      t
      > in that you need a gun which is about $30 but it will work with any two
      > part, 1:1, gun pack!
      > 
      > aged product.  Each pak also comes with a self mixing dispensing nozzle so
      
      > you just stick it in the gun, put the nozzle on, and squeeze.  Extra tips
      > are less than a buck and if you don't use the whole cartridge you just chu
      ck
      > the tip and put the cap back on.
      > > 
      > > I'm sure many of you are saying that you've heard this before but this
      > stuff is GREAT!  It looks and acts similar to the Weldon but you get upwar
      ds
      > of 30min working time and it doesn't even sag!  This stuff is made
      > specifically as a structural adhesive for plastics so it seems to be an
      > excellent product for this application.
      > > 
      > > Not wanting to completely trust what I read I decided to a little
      > non-scientific destructive testing.  I didn't have a piece of scrap
      > fiberglass anymore but I did have plenty of scrap plexi from trimming the
      > windows so I took two pieces and glued an overlap of about 1.5x1.5 inch on
      
      > two pieces of scrap.  Cure time for this stuff is about 24 hours but I let
      
      > it sit for about a week.  This stuff doesn't get as rock hard as Weldon bu
      t
      > it isn't flexible either.  I took the glued piece and put it in the vise o
      n
      > its edge and tried to separate it in full edge shear (not really sure how t
      o
      > describe it but was the most difficult way to break it) and the plexi brok
      e
      > clear of the glue joint.  I then turned it flat and tried to peel it apart
      
      > and again the plexi broke away from the glue joint.  So far the glue joint
      
      > hasn't budged.  I then took a hammer and beat the crap out of the remainin
      g
      > square which was basically just the glued area.  After several whacks with
      
      > the framing hammer I wa!
      > 
      > s finally able to get it to break into 3 pieces without ANY separation of
      > the glue joint.  I've attached a few pictures below so you can see what I'
      m
      > talking about.
      > > 
      > > Here is a link to the distributor I got it from.  This page also has a
      > link to the gun you need and extra tips if you want them.  Keep in mind ea
      ch
      > pack comes with one tip too.  
      > > 
      > > http://chemical-concepts.com/products.php?sid=192&limit
      > > 
      > > Here is a technical datasheet on 7545A:
      > > 
      > > http://www.glue4you.com/PDF/Lord7545_TN001.pdf
      > > 
      > > Michael
      > > 
      > > 
      > > <CIMG2094.JPG>
      > > <CIMG2083.JPG>
      > > <CIMG2089.JPG>
      > > <CIMG2091.JPG>
      > > <CIMG2092.JPG>
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.bsp; --> http://www.matrobsp;           -M
      att http://www.matronics.com/con===============
      =
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >  
      > 
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      > 
      
Message 7
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