Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:22 AM - Re: LED tail light strobe (Jesse Saint)
2. 03:45 AM - Van's door seal (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
3. 04:04 AM - Re: Van's door seal (Carl Froehlich)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: Antenna locations (bill.peyton)
5. 05:43 AM - Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans (bill.peyton)
6. 05:54 AM - A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (Bill Watson)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans (Bill Watson)
8. 06:39 AM - Re: LED tail light strobe (William Greenley)
9. 07:17 AM - Re: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans (Bill Watson)
10. 07:21 AM - Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (Don McDonald)
11. 08:13 AM - RV 10 power plant question... (JimVillani)
12. 08:28 AM - Re: RV 10 power plant question... (rene@felker.com)
13. 08:45 AM - Re: RV 10 power plant question... (dmaib@me.com)
14. 08:50 AM - Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (Robin Marks)
15. 09:25 AM - Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (Dave Saylor)
16. 09:27 AM - Re: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans (Michael Kraus)
17. 09:46 AM - Re: RV 10 power plant question... (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
18. 09:48 AM - Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (jchang10)
19. 10:02 AM - Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (Bill Watson)
20. 10:04 AM - Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. (Bill Watson)
21. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans (Bill Watson)
22. 10:19 AM - Re: Antenna locations (Bob Turner)
23. 10:25 AM - Re: RV 10 power plant question... (bob-tcw)
24. 01:14 PM - Re: Antenna locations (bill.peyton)
25. 01:23 PM - Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans (bill.peyton)
26. 01:43 PM - Re: RV 10 power plant question... (Seano)
27. 06:51 PM - Re: LED tail light strobe (Rick Lark)
28. 07:11 PM - Windscreen Gap (maca2790)
29. 07:13 PM - Fitting Fairing to the Fuselage, how I do it...... (Michael Kraus)
30. 07:40 PM - Re: Windscreen Gap (Michael Kraus)
31. 08:46 PM - Re: Windscreen Gap (John Gonzalez)
32. 10:11 PM - Re: Antenna locations (Bob Turner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: LED tail light strobe |
I have used clear wing walk that I purchased as Spruce, I believe, and I am not
happy with it. I think it is less flexible than the Ray Allen stuff, so it becomes
brittle. It also doesn't seem to adhere as well. I have moved back to the
black stuff.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 29, 2012, at 12:32 AM, David Leikam wrote:
>
> Does anyone know a good source to purchase an LED tail light strobe combo to
replace my Whelen? I found a couple but they are out of stock.
> Also, does anyone have experience with clear wing walk tape? Does it discolor?
> Thx.
>
> Dave Leikam
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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I've got an unused Van's door seal I'd be willing to part with, if anyone h
as a use or desire for it. FREE! Just send a few bucks to ship it.
Got to clean out the hangar!
Tim
N52KS
Tdt@aurora.aero
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Van's door seal |
Tim,
I'll take it.
Carl
On Feb 29, 2012, at 6:42 AM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend@aur
ora.aero> wrote:
> I've got an unused Van's door seal I'd be willing to part with, if anyone h
as a use or desire for it. FREE! Just send a few bucks to ship it.
> Got to clean out the hangar!
>
> Tim
> N52KS
> Tdt@aurora.aero
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
I installed 2 Archer nav antennas in each wing tip, one for each radio. My rationale
was that you will loose 3.5db through a splitter, which is around 50% signal
strength. As an earlier post stated, you can tune the antenna for your
installation using a piece of test equipment that most hams have. I have not
flown the aircraft as of yet, but based on most reports, I think this should
work fine. In today's environment, only real use for a VOR antenna is to receive
the localizer and GS. Normally the distance on this is less than 7nm.
I also installed an Archer MB antenna in the wingtip on the top surface above and
outside of the Archer antenna.
--------
Bill
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367514#367514
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans |
Bill,
Just out of curiosity, how did the fairing come loose?
Bill
--------
Bill
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367516#367516
Message 6
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| Subject: | A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
Just a few thoughts that may be of some value.
Rudder Trim: Not really needed
I've been climbing and cruising at full power. I've been descending at
high and low power settings. I've found that the 'natural' friction of
the rudder control system will hold the necessary trim in typical calm
cruising conditions. The lightest pressure on the right rudder will
handle things for initial climbout. Though I've made provisions for a
spring type rudder trim, at this point I don't see any reason to install it.
Trimming for roll: The elevator trim tabs have a significant effect on
roll trim
As we all know or will find out, the elevator trim tab setup is
disturbingly asymmetric in operation. Not a problem, just strange.
When doing the final setup, there are some guidelines for how this
asymmetry should be handled. What I've found is that a few turns of the
clevis at one trim tab can have a noticeable effect on roll trim. So if
you seem to require the aileron trim to be set one way or the other,
consider a small adjustment of the elevator trim tabs. You can make
noticeable changes while still staying within the guidelines for general
setup. On a related topic....
Building a 'straight' airframe: This plane just 'snaps' together.... it
really does (this is a QB statement). There isn't a significant bit of
jigging required anywhere to build a straight aircraft.... with one
possible exception... or maybe it was just me. The one task I initially
screwed up was drilling the elevator horns. I screwed it up so badly
that a complete rework was required with the gracious help of my Tech
Counselor. But even with the rework and a second chance to get it
right, I ever so slightly screwed it again. That is, my elevators are
ever so slightly misaligned. Grrrrr! I'm living with it now and it's
all okay (see "trimming for roll"). But, take time and care with the
drilling of the elevator horns!
Economy: LOP ops Rock! I'm getting far better economy from the 260HP
efficient '10 than I ever got from my 180HP Maule... in all regimes. No
surprise in retrospect but I just didn't expect it. Long term effects
of LOP? I'm confident it's the best thing I can do to my engine. Time
will tell.
Overall: For this pilot It's hard to imagine a better 4 place homebuilt
cruiser than he '10. Easy and fun to fly, great performance in all
respects, roomy, good looking, etc, etc. I don't have that much
experience in that many aircraft to make credible comparisons so I'll
just leave it at that. One thing it doesn't do well is flying in the
convective chop that is common on most sunny days. The nose hunts all
over the place, especially in yaw. I try not to give rides in the
middle of the day or below 4k to 6k on a normal Carolina day.
So What!
Bill "happily buzzing at 6 months and 115 hours" Watson
#40605
MyRV10.com - The RV10 Builders Page <http://www.myrv10.com/>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from |
Vans
Good question. I don't have a clue. One day during preflight, it
wasn't there. Wish I knew.
Bill
On 2/29/2012 8:43 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bill.peyton"<peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Bill,
> Just out of curiosity, how did the fairing come loose?
> Bill
>
> --------
> Bill
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367516#367516
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: LED tail light strobe |
I suggest looking at the ztron unit, seems like one of the most
affordable choices. It is at ztronlabs.com
Bill Greenley
On Wed, Feb 29, 2012 at 12:32 AM, David Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know a good source to purchase an LED tail light strobe combo to
replace my Whelen? I found a couple but they are out of stock.
> Also, does anyone have experience with clear wing walk tape? Does it discolor?
> Thx.
>
> Dave Leikam
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from |
Vans
I guess I should add that it was screwed on with #6 truss heads into
those self locking Riv-nuts or whatever they are called. The Riv-nut
things remain in place... I forget whether all the screws were still
there or not. Seems like the fairing just ripped away. They were the
standard Vans part with maybe only one layer of cloth added.
I would note that the new fairing seems to be of higher quality and I'm
thinking of not adding any additional cloth contrary to the directions.
Am I setting myself up to lose another?
On 2/29/2012 8:55 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Good question. I don't have a clue. One day during preflight, it
> wasn't there. Wish I knew.
>
> Bill
>
> On 2/29/2012 8:43 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bill.peyton"<peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Bill,
>> Just out of curiosity, how did the fairing come loose?
>> Bill
>>
>> --------
>> Bill
>> Aviation Partners, LLC
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto.... and that's all I have to say.=0ADon=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc
.rr.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, February 29, 201
2 7:53 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very
happy builder.=0A =0A=0AJust a few thoughts that may be of some value.=0A
=0ARudder Trim: Not really needed=0AI've been climbing and cruising at full
power.- I've been=0A descending- at high and low power settings.-
I've found that the=0A 'natural' friction of the rudder control system
will hold the=0A necessary trim in typical calm cruising conditions.-
The lightest=0A pressure on the right rudder will handle things for init
ial=0A climbout.- Though I've made provisions for a spring type rudder
=0A trim, at this point I don't see any reason to install it.=0A=0ATrimm
ing for roll: The elevator trim tabs have a significant effect=0A on rol
l trim=0AAs we all know or will find out, the elevator trim tab setup is=0A
disturbingly asymmetric in operation.- Not a problem, just strange.
-=0A When doing the final setup, there are some guidelines for how thi
s=0A asymmetry should be handled.- What I've found is that a few turns
of=0A the clevis at one trim tab can have a noticeable effect on roll
=0A trim.- So if you seem to require the aileron trim to be set one wa
y=0A or the other, consider a small adjustment of the elevator trim=0A
tabs.- You can make noticeable changes while still staying within=0A
the guidelines for general setup.- On a related topic....=0A=0ABuilding
a 'straight' airframe:- This plane just 'snaps'=0A together.... it rea
lly does (this is a QB statement).- There isn't a=0A significant bit o
f jigging required anywhere to build a straight=0A aircraft.... with one
possible exception... or maybe it was just=0A me.- The one task I ini
tially screwed up was drilling the elevator=0A horns.- I screwed it up
so badly that a complete rework was required=0A with the gracious help
of my Tech Counselor.- But even with the=0A rework and a second chance
to get it right, I ever so slightly=0A screwed it again.- That is, my
elevators are ever so slightly=0A misaligned.- Grrrrr!- I'm living
with it now and it's all okay (see=0A "trimming for roll").- But, take
time and care with the drilling of=0A the elevator horns!=0A=0AEconomy:
- LOP ops Rock!- I'm getting far better economy from the=0A 260HP ef
ficient '10 than I ever got from my 180HP Maule... in all=0A regimes.-
No surprise in retrospect but I just didn't expect it.-=0A Long term
effects of LOP?- I'm confident it's the best thing I can=0A do to my e
ngine.- Time will tell.=0A=0AOverall: For this pilot It's hard to imagine
a better 4 place=0A homebuilt cruiser than he '10.-- Easy and fun t
o fly, great=0A performance in all respects, roomy, good looking, etc, e
tc.- I don't=0A have that much experience in that many aircraft to mak
e credible=0A comparisons so I'll just leave it at that. - One thing i
t doesn't do=0A well is flying in the convective chop that is common on
most sunny=0A days.- The- nose hunts all over the place, especially
in yaw.- I try=0A not to give rides in the middle of the day or below
4k to 6k on a=0A normal Carolina day.- =0ASo What!=0A=0ABill "happily
buzzing at 6 months and 115 hours" Watson=0A#40605=0AMyRV10.com - The RV10
=====================
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV 10 power plant question... |
Hey Guys.
What other versions of the IO 540 have been successfully installed in the
10?
Has anyone installed versions other than the IO 540 D4A5?
If so please advise.
I am about 6 months out until I need a power plant.
Thanks!!!
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim@JimVillani.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 power plant question... |
C4B5
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
-----Original message-----
From: JimVillani <Jim@JimVillani.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 29, 2012 09:11:59 MST
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 power plant question...
Hey Guys.
What other versions of the IO 540 have been successfully installed in the
10?
Has anyone installed versions other than the IO 540 D4A5?
If so please advise.
I am about 6 months out until I need a power plant.
Thanks!!!
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim@JimVillani.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 power plant question... |
[quote="Jim(at)JimVillani.com"]Hey Guys
What other versions of the IO 540 have been successfully installed in the 10?
Has anyone installed versions other than the IO 540 D4A5?
If so please advise
I am about 6 months out until I need a power plant
Thanks!!!
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim@JimVillani.com (Jim@JimVillani.com)
> [b]
I installed a C4B5, as have many others. This engine was installed on Piper Aztec's
and perhaps some other Piper's, but I don't know for sure about that. The
engine mount ears from the Aztec will not fit the Van's engine mount, but the
correct ears are available.
The C4B5 was rated at 250 HP on the Aztec by limiting max RPM to 2575. Lycoming
says that it is identical to the D4A5 otherwise, so can be operated at 260HP/2700
RPM on the RV-10.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367535#367535
Message 14
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| Subject: | A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
I have to decent from the Rudder Trim observation. I LOVE having my rudder
trim. Maybe because we design a trick one for the 10 & 8A but if you want t
he plane perfectly coordinated in most phases of flight (I never bother on
climb out) having an adjustable rudder trim is nice. One note, I included a
position sensor which is indicated on my G900x for the 10. After flying fo
r a while I figured out we already have a position indicator called the sli
p ball. On the 8A I just installed the servo, no position sensor or indicat
or needed just center the ball. Duhhh
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy bu
ilder.
Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto.... and that's all I have to say.
Don
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com<mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builde
r.
Just a few thoughts that may be of some value.
Rudder Trim: Not really needed
I've been climbing and cruising at full power. I've been descending at hi
gh and low power settings. I've found that the 'natural' friction of the r
udder control system will hold the necessary trim in typical calm cruising
conditions. The lightest pressure on the right rudder will handle things f
or initial climbout. Though I've made provisions for a spring type rudder
trim, at this point I don't see any reason to install it.
Trimming for roll: The elevator trim tabs have a significant effect on roll
trim
As we all know or will find out, the elevator trim tab setup is disturbingl
y asymmetric in operation. Not a problem, just strange. When doing the fi
nal setup, there are some guidelines for how this asymmetry should be handl
ed. What I've found is that a few turns of the clevis at one trim tab can
have a noticeable effect on roll trim. So if you seem to require the ailer
on trim to be set one way or the other, consider a small adjustment of the
elevator trim tabs. You can make noticeable changes while still staying wi
thin the guidelines for general setup. On a related topic....
Building a 'straight' airframe: This plane just 'snaps' together.... it re
ally does (this is a QB statement). There isn't a significant bit of jiggi
ng required anywhere to build a straight aircraft.... with one possible exc
eption... or maybe it was just me. The one task I initially screwed up was
drilling the elevator horns. I screwed it up so badly that a complete rew
ork was required with the gracious help of my Tech Counselor. But even wit
h the rework and a second chance to get it right, I ever so slightly screwe
d it again. That is, my elevators are ever so slightly misaligned. Grrrrr
! I'm living with it now and it's all okay (see "trimming for roll"). But
, take time and care with the drilling of the elevator horns!
Economy: LOP ops Rock! I'm getting far better economy from the 260HP effi
cient '10 than I ever got from my 180HP Maule... in all regimes. No surpri
se in retrospect but I just didn't expect it. Long term effects of LOP? I
'm confident it's the best thing I can do to my engine. Time will tell.
Overall: For this pilot It's hard to imagine a better 4 place homebuilt cru
iser than he '10. Easy and fun to fly, great performance in all respects,
roomy, good looking, etc, etc. I don't have that much experience in that
many aircraft to make credible comparisons so I'll just leave it at that.
One thing it doesn't do well is flying in the convective chop that is comm
on on most sunny days. The nose hunts all over the place, especially in y
aw. I try not to give rides in the middle of the day or below 4k to 6k on
a normal Carolina day.
So What!
Bill "happily buzzing at 6 months and 115 hours" Watson
#40605
MyRV10.com - The RV10 Builders Page<http://www.myrv10.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R=============
========
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
I didn't think rudder trim was necessary but I was talked in to
installing it and now I wouldn't be without.
Bill, I think you may have explained something strange that happens to
me in cruise from time to time. Every now and then, in calm air,
straight and level, the plane suddenly yaws to one side pretty
significantly. Enough so that I have to re-trim the rudder. It
really gets my attention.
I assume there is a detectable amount of cross-talk between yaw and
roll. That is, yaw puts in a little roll and vice-verse.
I have auto-trim on the elevator (which I love) and after reading
Bill's note about asymmetric elevator trim, it occurred to me that
maybe at some point the auto-trim moves the tabs through zero, from
slightly rudder-trimmed for left-roll to completely untrimmed for the
new right-roll condition.
Maybe I need auto-yaw...
--Dave Saylor
On Wed, Feb 29, 2012 at 8:47 AM, Robin Marks <robin@painttheweb.com> wrote:
> I have to decent from the Rudder Trim observation. I LOVE having my rudder
> trim. Maybe because we design a trick one for the 10 & 8A but if you want
> the plane perfectly coordinated in most phases of flight (I never bother on
> climb out) having an adjustable rudder trim is nice. One note, I included a
> position sensor which is indicated on my G900x for the 10. After flying for
> a while I figured out we already have a position indicator called the slip
> ball. On the 8A I just installed the servo, no position sensor or indicator
> needed just center the ball. Duhhh
>
>
> Robin
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
> Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy
> builder.
>
>
> Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto.... and that's all I have to say.
>
> Don
>
>
> From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:53 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy
> builder.
>
>
> Just a few thoughts that may be of some value.
>
> Rudder Trim: Not really needed
> I've been climbing and cruising at full power. I've been descending at
> high and low power settings. I've found that the 'natural' friction of the
> rudder control system will hold the necessary trim in typical calm cruising
> conditions. The lightest pressure on the right rudder will handle things
> for initial climbout. Though I've made provisions for a spring type rudder
> trim, at this point I don't see any reason to install it.
>
> Trimming for roll: The elevator trim tabs have a significant effect on roll
> trim
> As we all know or will find out, the elevator trim tab setup is disturbingly
> asymmetric in operation. Not a problem, just strange. When doing the final
> setup, there are some guidelines for how this asymmetry should be handled.
> What I've found is that a few turns of the clevis at one trim tab can have a
> noticeable effect on roll trim. So if you seem to require the aileron trim
> to be set one way or the other, consider a small adjustment of the elevator
> trim tabs. You can make noticeable changes while still staying within the
> guidelines for general setup. On a related topic....
>
> Building a 'straight' airframe: This plane just 'snaps' together.... it
> really does (this is a QB statement). There isn't a significant bit of
> jigging required anywhere to build a straight aircraft.... with one possible
> exception... or maybe it was just me. The one task I initially screwed up
> was drilling the elevator horns. I screwed it up so badly that a complete
> rework was required with the gracious help of my Tech Counselor. But even
> with the rework and a second chance to get it right, I ever so slightly
> screwed it again. That is, my elevators are ever so slightly misaligned.
> Grrrrr! I'm living with it now and it's all okay (see "trimming for
> roll"). But, take time and care with the drilling of the elevator horns!
>
> Economy: LOP ops Rock! I'm getting far better economy from the 260HP
> efficient '10 than I ever got from my 180HP Maule... in all regimes. No
> surprise in retrospect but I just didn't expect it. Long term effects of
> LOP? I'm confident it's the best thing I can do to my engine. Time will
> tell.
>
> Overall: For this pilot It's hard to imagine a better 4 place homebuilt
> cruiser than he '10. Easy and fun to fly, great performance in all
> respects, roomy, good looking, etc, etc. I don't have that much experience
> in that many aircraft to make credible comparisons so I'll just leave it at
> that. One thing it doesn't do well is flying in the convective chop that
> is common on most sunny days. The nose hunts all over the place,
> especially in yaw. I try not to give rides in the middle of the day or
> below 4k to 6k on a normal Carolina day.
> So What!
>
> Bill "happily buzzing at 6 months and 115 hours" Watson
> #40605
> MyRV10.com - The RV10 Builders Page
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R=====================
>
>
> ============== V10-List Email Forum - > :p> /o:p>
> tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =============
> bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - :p> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ============== bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - e>
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution =============
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from |
Vans
I have never found a fairing that fits to my liking without laying up mold release
then 2-3 layers of glass on the fuselage and gear leg and then setting the
prefabbed fairing into it to cure. Pop it off, clean it up, and it'll fit like
a glove. I did the same thing on the empannage intersection fairing.... It
gives the 'molded on' look....
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 29, 2012, at 10:16 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I guess I should add that it was screwed on with #6 truss heads into those self
locking Riv-nuts or whatever they are called. The Riv-nut things remain in
place... I forget whether all the screws were still there or not. Seems like
the fairing just ripped away. They were the standard Vans part with maybe only
one layer of cloth added.
>
> I would note that the new fairing seems to be of higher quality and I'm thinking
of not adding any additional cloth contrary to the directions. Am I setting
myself up to lose another?
>
> On 2/29/2012 8:55 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Good question. I don't have a clue. One day during preflight, it wasn't there.
Wish I knew.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On 2/29/2012 8:43 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bill.peyton"<peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>> Just out of curiosity, how did the fairing come loose?
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Bill
>>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 power plant question... |
I am using an IO-540 V4A5. It came out of a 2001 Maule. The fuel servo is h
orizontal and more forward of the D4A5 if you use an elbow to convert it to
horizontal induction. It also rides higher and tighter to the engine. This
has been a challenge fitting the cowl and snorkel which require major surg
ery and fabrication but I am happy with the results so far. Its not flying
yet so I have no idea how my home brew ram air system is going to work.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "JimVillani" <Jim@JimVillani.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 11:11:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 power plant question...
Hey Guys
What other versions of the IO 540 have been successfully installed in the 1
0?
Has anyone installed versions other than the IO 540 D4A5?
If so please advise
I am about 6 months out until I need a power plant
Thanks!!!
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim@JimVillani.com
==
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
I agree with Robin, i did not have rudder trim on first flight, but it was the
very first thing i added after the 40 hours. The one i have (skunkworks) is less
than ideal with a skunky klunky control knob but i got it working good enough.
I heard rumors a well known aftermarket supplier is working on their own version,
which will undoubtedly be much better than the one i tweaked.
My plane is very sensitive to CG and loading. Aileron trim takes care of side to
side. The rudder trim was important for forward and aft loading. Fwd and aft
sensitivity also varied on speed. I suppose others might get lucky and not have
the same issues.
In cruise with fwd CG, the ball is ever so slightly left. With mid CG, the ball
was always right. With aft CG, the ball was way way right. Now, my rudder trim
is mostly always set slightly biased right in cruise, and my right leg can relax.
I will tweak it slightly left or right based on loading and speed.
Finally, the spring system helps keep the rudder from flopping around so much in
winds. You feel like a helpless lamb the first time you watch your poor rudder
flopping around with the original system while parked without the rudder secured.
I agree about building the plane as true and straight as possible. The truer and
straighter the plane is built, means the easier the finishing stage is when
the whole plane comes together. Later on, it means the easier the maintenance
is when you continue to take things off and on and off and on, etc. This is the
long-term reward for scrapping something or redoing it until it is just right.
Finally, about wind, we get a fair amount of wind on the coast. No plane is immune
to the effects of wind. However, I think the -10 does pretty good compared
to most of the Cessnas at least. I hear them giving pireps to each other to stay
away, which is amusing because I am happy as a clam. We wont do as well as
a Lanciar or Cirrus, but we don't have to land at 120knots either!
Jae
--------
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367541#367541
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
Wow, that would be an interesting situation if true. I too have
auto-trim (LOVE IT) but haven't noticed the same thing. Of course, I
usually have a toe or two on the rudders and would probably catch it
without noticing. Will keep an eye out for it.
On 2/29/2012 12:21 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> I didn't think rudder trim was necessary but I was talked in to
> installing it and now I wouldn't be without.
>
> Bill, I think you may have explained something strange that happens to
> me in cruise from time to time. Every now and then, in calm air,
> straight and level, the plane suddenly yaws to one side pretty
> significantly. Enough so that I have to re-trim the rudder. It
> really gets my attention.
>
> I assume there is a detectable amount of cross-talk between yaw and
> roll. That is, yaw puts in a little roll and vice-verse.
>
> I have auto-trim on the elevator (which I love) and after reading
> Bill's note about asymmetric elevator trim, it occurred to me that
> maybe at some point the auto-trim moves the tabs through zero, from
> slightly rudder-trimmed for left-roll to completely untrimmed for the
> new right-roll condition.
>
> Maybe I need auto-yaw...
>
> --Dave Saylor
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
Well, I still have an almost complete homegrown trim system that I can
install but for now, it will have a hard time making the priority squawk
list.
The slip ball indeed....ha ha! How far we've come.
Bill
On 2/29/2012 11:47 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I have to decent from the Rudder Trim observation. I LOVE having my
> rudder trim. Maybe because we design a trick one for the 10 & 8A but
> if you want the plane perfectly coordinated in most phases of flight
> (I never bother on climb out) having an adjustable rudder trim is
> nice. One note, I included a position sensor which is indicated on my
> G900x for the 10. After flying for a while I figured out we already
> have a position indicator called the slip ball. On the 8A I just
> installed the servo, no position sensor or indicator needed just
> center the ball. Duhhh
>
> Robin
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Don McDonald
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:21 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very
> happy builder.
>
> Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto.... and that's all I have to say.
>
> Don
>
> *From:*Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:53 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy
> builder.
>
> Just a few thoughts that may be of some value.
>
> Rudder Trim: Not really needed
> I've been climbing and cruising at full power. I've been descending
> at high and low power settings. I've found that the 'natural'
> friction of the rudder control system will hold the necessary trim in
> typical calm cruising conditions. The lightest pressure on the right
> rudder will handle things for initial climbout. Though I've made
> provisions for a spring type rudder trim, at this point I don't see
> any reason to install it.
>
> Trimming for roll: The elevator trim tabs have a significant effect on
> roll trim
> As we all know or will find out, the elevator trim tab setup is
> disturbingly asymmetric in operation. Not a problem, just strange.
> When doing the final setup, there are some guidelines for how this
> asymmetry should be handled. What I've found is that a few turns of
> the clevis at one trim tab can have a noticeable effect on roll trim.
> So if you seem to require the aileron trim to be set one way or the
> other, consider a small adjustment of the elevator trim tabs. You can
> make noticeable changes while still staying within the guidelines for
> general setup. On a related topic....
>
> Building a 'straight' airframe: This plane just 'snaps' together....
> it really does (this is a QB statement). There isn't a significant
> bit of jigging required anywhere to build a straight aircraft.... with
> one possible exception... or maybe it was just me. The one task I
> initially screwed up was drilling the elevator horns. I screwed it up
> so badly that a complete rework was required with the gracious help of
> my Tech Counselor. But even with the rework and a second chance to
> get it right, I ever so slightly screwed it again. That is, my
> elevators are ever so slightly misaligned. Grrrrr! I'm living with
> it now and it's all okay (see "trimming for roll"). But, take time
> and care with the drilling of the elevator horns!
>
> Economy: LOP ops Rock! I'm getting far better economy from the 260HP
> efficient '10 than I ever got from my 180HP Maule... in all regimes.
> No surprise in retrospect but I just didn't expect it. Long term
> effects of LOP? I'm confident it's the best thing I can do to my
> engine. Time will tell.
>
> Overall: For this pilot It's hard to imagine a better 4 place
> homebuilt cruiser than he '10. Easy and fun to fly, great
> performance in all respects, roomy, good looking, etc, etc. I don't
> have that much experience in that many aircraft to make credible
> comparisons so I'll just leave it at that. One thing it doesn't do
> well is flying in the convective chop that is common on most sunny
> days. The nose hunts all over the place, especially in yaw. I try
> not to give rides in the middle of the day or below 4k to 6k on a
> normal Carolina day.
> So What!
>
> Bill "happily buzzing at 6 months and 115 hours" Watson
> #40605
> MyRV10.com - The RV10 Builders Page <http://www.myrv10.com/>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R======================*
> * *
>
> * *
> * *
> ==============V10-List Email Forum -> :p> /o:p>
> tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List==============bsp;
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -:p>
> tp://forums.matronics.com==============bsp; - List Contribution Web
> Site -e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=============
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from |
Vans
Thanks for that chunk of technique! That's what I'll be doing on this
new one.
On 2/29/2012 12:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> I have never found a fairing that fits to my liking without laying up mold release
then 2-3 layers of glass on the fuselage and gear leg and then setting the
prefabbed fairing into it to cure. Pop it off, clean it up, and it'll fit
like a glove. I did the same thing on the empannage intersection fairing....
It gives the 'molded on' look....
>
> -Mike
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
True, a matched signal splitter will knock your signal strength down by a factor
of two. But it also will knock down any external noise coming down the coax
by a factor of two as well. What counts is the signal to noise ratio - the receivers
always have plenty of gain.
If you have a good receiver which generates little internal noise, then the splitter
doesn't hurt at all - just turn up the volume.
If your background noise is dominated by noise generated by the electronics of
the receiver itself, then you lose the 2x.
So the answer is, "it depends".
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367548#367548
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 power plant question... |
I got an O-540-E4B5 from a Cherokee 6-260 and added AFP fuel injection.
fit perfectly without any modifications and used van=99s baffle
kit.
Bob Newman
N541RV
From: JimVillani
Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 11:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 power plant question...
Hey Guys
What other versions of the IO 540 have been successfully installed in
the 10?
Has anyone installed versions other than the IO 540 D4A5?
If so please advise
I am about 6 months out until I need a power plant
Thanks!!!
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim@JimVillani.com
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
Bob,
You have it incorrect. The signal to noise ratio is just that. More gain at the
antenna given the same amount of internally generated receiver noise will yield
a higher S/N ratio through the entire system. Cutting the gain of the antenna
also cuts out externally received, (through the antenna) noise, the the
S/N is unchanged due to the fact that you not only decreased the wanted signal,
but decreased the unwanted signal at the same time. As long as the noise comes
in prior to the radio's antenna connector, inserting a splitter does just
that. It decreases the signal AND the noise by the same exact amount.
I will agree that for the most part, especially when using an externally mounted
antenna, such as a cat wiskers, you have plenty of signal to split between two
VOR receivers. The issue that the Archer antennas present is, they do not
have the gain nor are they mounted in an optimum location on the aircraft. In
addition, with the Archer antenna, you do not have an omnidirectional pattern
due to the mounting location. So having one antenna in each wing tip, connected
to separate receivers is good insurance. So in this instance, maximizing
the signal coming down the coax is a good idea.
Bill
--------
Bill
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367557#367557
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans |
Mike,
do you have any photos of the process and the result? It sounds like a great idea
Bill
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367558#367558
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 power plant question... |
I have an IO-540-N1A5. 260hp
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 29, 2012, at 9:11, "JimVillani" <Jim@JimVillani.com> wrote:
> Hey Guys
>
> What other versions of the IO 540 have been successfully installed in the 1
0?
> Has anyone installed versions other than the IO 540 D4A5?
> If so please advise
> I am about 6 months out until I need a power plant
> Thanks!!!
>
> Jim Villani
> Kit# 41084
> Jim@JimVillani.com
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: LED tail light strobe |
Dave, I just purchased the AeoLed Suntail.- It is a awesome little light.
- I think it is quite expensive though.- It took me a long time to talk
myself into buying it.- I haven't installed it yet though, except to try
it out with a battery.- Great company to deal with too.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Wed, 2/29/12, David Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com> wrote:
From: David Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: LED tail light strobe
Received: Wednesday, February 29, 2012, 5:32 AM
Does anyone know a good source to purchase an LED tail light strobe combo t
o replace my Whelen?- I found a couple but they are out of stock.
Also, does anyone have experience with clear wing walk tape?- Does it dis
color?
Thx.
Dave Leikam
le, List Admin.
Message 28
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|
Hi Guys,
I'm getting ready to Bond the Windscreen in but I am worried about how to close
a Gap that is between the Glare Shield and the Windscreen.
On the Starboard side it's worse than the Port side see the attached Photo.
cheers
John MacCallum
41016
VH-DUU
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367577#367577
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2035_176.jpg
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Fitting Fairing to the Fuselage, how I do it...... |
Here is a better description of how I fit my fairings..... Can be used
for the gear leg to fuse, gear leg to wheel pant, or rear empennage
intersection fairing.
* Rough cut and dry fit up fairing to airplane. Drill #30 holes in
locations where screws will eventually hold fairing to fuselage. When
satisfied with the fit, draw a marker line on the fuselage around perimeter
of fairing. Remove fairing.
* Use mold release (I use the car wax stuff from Aircraft Spruce) and wipe
it all over the fuselage about 2-4=B2 or more around both sides of the line
you drew. DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS STEP OR YOU WILL VERY UNHAPPY!!
* Scuff up inside of fairing with 36-40 grit sandpaper on all surfaces wher
e
they will come into contact with the fuselage.
* Clean fairings real good with acetone or similar to remove any
dust/dirt/residue/mold release, etc
* Work on one side of one fairing at a time (for instance, if you are
working on the upper fuselage to gear leg intersection fairing, work on the
fuselage to fairing interface first. Second time around work on the fairin
g
to gear leg interface). Lay up 2-3 layers of approximately 9 oz cloth on
the fuselage over the line drawn in step 1.
* Mix up flox and epoxy to a peanut butter consistency and apply about
1/16=B2-1/8=B2 onto the fairing surface that mates to the fuselage. This will
help fill any gaps that may be present due to poorly formed fairings.
* Mash the fairing onto the fuselage in position. Use
cleco=B9s/clamps/screws/whatever you desire to hold it in place exactly where
you want it until dry.
*
* Once dry, use compressed air to blow it free from the fuselage. Its
amazing how well the compressed air works. Just get a little spot to break
free, then blow air in the spot and the whole thing will pop off pretty
easily.
* Clean the fuselage up with a plastic scraper and acetone and clean real
well.
* Trim the fairing edge as desired to get a smooth edge.
*
* Repeat the process for the other side of the same fairing. For this
example, that would be the upper gear leg to fairing surface (or the lower
line as described above). DON=B9T FORGET THE MOLD RELEASE ON THE SURFACE YOU
DON=B9T WANT IT BONDED TOO!
*
* Once complete, fill and sand, and fill, and sand, and fill, and sand unti
l
it is smooth to your satisfaction.
For the rear empannage intersection fairing, I followed the same process,
but layed up the HS to fairing surface first, then the VS to fairing surfac
e
second.
I hope this is not too confusing. It is actually quite easy, just takes
time.....especially in the Michigan winters when even fast drying epoxy
takes 2 days to cure!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying and Sold
RV-10 Flying
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Gap |
Get it down as tight as you can, then fill the gap with flox and epoxy slurry mixed
to a peanut butter consistency then immediately start your Lay-up.
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 29, 2012, at 10:10 PM, "maca2790" <vk2gcn@cirruscomms.com.au> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
> I'm getting ready to Bond the Windscreen in but I am worried about how to close
a Gap that is between the Glare Shield and the Windscreen.
>
> On the Starboard side it's worse than the Port side see the attached Photo.
>
> cheers
>
> John MacCallum
> 41016
> VH-DUU
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367577#367577
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2035_176.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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You may also wish to mix a black pigment into the resin so the fabric doesn
't stand out so much while viewing from inside the plane.
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Gap
> From: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
> Date: Wed=2C 29 Feb 2012 22:38:28 -0500
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
t>
>
> Get it down as tight as you can=2C then fill the gap with flox and epoxy
slurry mixed to a peanut butter consistency then immediately start your Lay
-up.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 29=2C 2012=2C at 10:10 PM=2C "maca2790" <vk2gcn@cirruscomms.com.au
> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Guys=2C
> > I'm getting ready to Bond the Windscreen in but I am worried about how
to close a Gap that is between the Glare Shield and the Windscreen.
> >
> > On the Starboard side it's worse than the Port side see the attached Ph
oto.
> >
> > cheers
> >
> > John MacCallum
> > 41016
> > VH-DUU
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367577#367577
> >
> >
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Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
Bill, I think we both said the same thing about S/N ratios...
You left out another small advantage of 2 wing tip antennas, over one split 2 ways:
given the cost of splitters, 2 antennas may be cheaper than 1+splitter!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367583#367583
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